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0 AN 

AUTHENTIC  NARRATIVE 

OF  THE  LOSS  OF  TIIE 

AMERICAN  BRIG  COMMERCE, 

WRECKED  ON  THE  WESTERN  COAST  OF  AFRICA,  IN  THE  MONTH 
OF  AUGUST,  1815. 

•* 

WITH 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  SUFFERINGS 

OF  HER 

SURVIVING  OFFICERS  AND  CREW, 

WHO  WERE  ENSLAVED  BY  THE  WANDERING  ARABS  ON  THE  GREAT 

AFRICAN  DESERT,  OR  ZAHAHRAH ; 

AND 

OBSERVATIONS  HISTORICAL,  GEOGRAPHICAL,  &c. 

NADS  DURING  THE  TRAVELS  OF  THE  AUTHOR,  WHILE  A SLAVE  TO  THE 
ARABS,  AND  IN  THE  EMPIRE  OF  MOROCCO. 

BY  JAMES  RILEY, 

HER  LATE  MASTER  AND  SUPERCARGO,  AND  A MEMBER  OF  THE 
NEW-TORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY. 

Preceded  by  a brief  sketch  of  the  Author’s  life:  and  containing  a description  of  the  famous  c'/.  • 
of  Tombuctoo,  on  the  rivet  Niirer,  and  of  another  large  city,  far  south  of  it,  on  the  same  rive; . 
called  W assanah  ; narrated  to  the  Author  at  Mogadore,  by  Sidi  Harriet , the  Arabian  mere'  air 

WITH  A NEW,  VALUABLE,  AND  INTERESTING  APPEND! Y. 

ILLUSTRATED  AND  EMBELLISHED  WITH  ELEVEN 
COPPERPLATE  ENGRAVINGS. 

THIRD  EDITION . 

NEW-YORK  . 

PUBLISHED  BY  THE  AUTHOR 

1818., 

104330 


SOUTHERN  DISTRICT  OF  NEW-tfORK,  SSV 

Be  it  remembered,  That  on  the  third  day  of  October,  iu  the  forty -first  year 
of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  [AD-  1816,]  James  Ri- 
'.ey,  of  the  said  District,  hath  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a book,  the  right 
whereof  he  claims  as  author  and  proprietor,  in  the  words  and  figures  following, 
to  wit: 

“An  Authentic  Narrative  of  the  loss  of  the  American  brig  Commerce,  wrecked 
on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa,  in  the  month  of  August,  1815.  With  an  ac- 
count of  the  sufferings  of  her  surviving  Officers  and  Crew,  who  were  enslaved 
by  the  wandering  Arabs  on  the  great  African  Desert,  or  Zahahrah ; and  obser- 
vations Historical,  Geographical,  &c.  made  during  the  travels  of  the  Author, 
while  a slave  to  the  Arabs,  and  in  the  Empire  of  Morocco.  By  James  Riley, 
late  master  and  supercargo  ; preceded  by  a brief  sketch  of  the  Author’s  life,  and 
concluded  by  a description  of  the  famous  city  of  Tombuctoo,  on  the  river  Niger, 
and  of  another  large  city,  far  south  of  it,  on  the  same  river,  called  Wassanah, 
narrated  to  the  Author  at  Mogadore,  by  Sidi  Hamet,  the  Arabian  merchant , 
with  an  Arabic  and  English  Vocabulary ; Illustrated  and  Embellished  with  ten 
handsome  copperplate  Engravings.” 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled  “ An 
Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts, 
and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  there- 
in mentioned.”  And  also  to  an  Act,  entitled  “ An  Act  supplementary  to  an  Act, 
entitled,  an  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during 
the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  de- 
signing, engraving,  and  etching,  historical  and  other  prints.” 

TIIERON  RUDD,  Clerk  of  the 

Southern  District  of  New-York. 


J.  &.  E.  Sanderson,  Printers^ 
Elizabeth-Town,  N.  J. 


TO  THE  READER. 


The  following  Narrative  of  my  misfortunes  and  suf- 
ferings, and  my  consequent  travels  and  observations  in 
Africa,  is  submitted  to  the  perusal  of  a candid  and  an 
enlightened  public,  with  much  diffidence,  particularly 
as  I write  without  having  had  the  advantages  that  may 
be  derived  from  an  academic  education,  and  being  quite 
unskilled  in  the  art  of  composing  for  the  press.  My 
aim  has  been  merely  to  record,  in  plain  and  unvarnished 
language,  scenes  in  which  I was  a principal  actor,  of  real 
and  heart-appalling  distresses.  The  very  deep  and  in- 
delible impression  made  on  my  mind  by  the  extraordi- 
nary circumstances  attending  my  late  shipwreck,  and  the 
miserable  captivity  of  myself  and  my  surviving  ship- 
mates, and  believing  that  a knowledge  of  many  of  these 
incidents  might  prove  useful  and  interesting  to  the 
world,  as  well  as  peculiarly  instructive  to  my  seafaring 
brethren  ; together  with  the  strong  and  repeated  solicita- 
tions of  many  of  my  valuable  friends,  among  whom  was 
the  honourable  James  Munroe,  Secretary  of  State,  and 
several  distinguished  members  of  Congress  : these  con- 
siderations, together  with  a view  of  being  enabled  by 
my  labours  to  afford  some  relief  to  the  surviving  suf- 
ferers, and  the  destitute  families  of  that  part  of  my  late 
crew,  whose  lot  it  was  to  perish  in  Africa,  or  who  are 
still  groaning  out  the  little  remains  of  their  existence  in 
the  cruel  bonds  of  barbarian  slavery,  have  induced  me 
to  undertake  the  very  arduous  and  difficult  task  of  pre- 
paring and  publishing  a work  so  large  and  expensive,, 

104330 


IV 


TO  THE  READER. 


The  Narrative  up  to  the  time  of  my  redemption,  was 
written  entirely  from  memory,  unaided  by  notes  or  any 
journal ; but  I committed  the  principal  facts  to  writing 
in  Mogadore,  when  every  circumstance  was  fresh  in  my 
memory,  (which  is  naturally  a retentive  one,)  and  I then 
compared  my  own  recollections  with  those  of  my  ran- 
somed companions  : this  was  done  with  a view  of  show- 
ing to  my  friends  the  unparalleled  sufferings  I had  en-  | 
dured,  and  not  for  the  particular  purpose  of  making 
them  public  by  means  of  the  press.  It  should  be  re- 
membered by  the  reader,  that  the  occurrences  here 
recorded,  took  place  out  of  the  common  course  of  a 
sailor’s  life  ; and  that  each  particular  event  was  of  a na- 
ture calculated  to  impress  itself  so  powerfully  on  the 
mind,  as  not  easily  to  be  effaced.  Having  previously, 
in  the  course  of  my  life,  visited  and  travelled  through 
several  foreign  countries,  my  mind  was  by  no  means 
unaccustomed  to  pay  attention  to,  and  make  observations 
on  whatever  came  within  the  reach  of  my  notice,  and 
for  this  reason,  the  strange  events  of  the  desert,  and  the 
novel  objects  and  scenes  which  I had  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  in  the  country  of  the  Moors,  were  not  suffer- 
ed to  pass  without  awakening  and  exercising  my  curios- 
ity  as  well  as  interest,  and  becoming  the  subject  of  care- 
ful and  habitual  reflections. 

Respecting  my  conversations  with  the  Arabs,  I have 
put  down  what  I knew  at  the  time  to  be  their  exact 
meaning,  as  nearly  as  I could  translate  their  words  and 
signs  combined.  I had,  previously,  learned  the  French 
and  Spanish  languages,  both  by  grammar  and  practice, 
and  had  also  been  accustomed  to  hear  spoken  the  Rus- 
sian and  different  dialects  of  the  German,  as  well  as  the 
Portuguese,  Italian.,  and  several  other  languages,  so  that 
my  ear  had  become  familiar  with  their  sounds  and  pro- 
nunciation. Perceiving  an  affinity  between  the  Arabian 
and  Spanish,  I soon  began  to  learn  the  names  of  com- 
mon things,  in  Arabic,  and  to  compare  them  in  my 
mind  with  those  I had  met  with  in  Turkish  and  other 
Oriental  history.  I had  no  hope  of  ever  being  redeem- 
ed, unless  I could  make  myself  understood,  and  I there- 


TO  THE  READER. 


V 

fore  took  the  utmost  care  to  treasure  up  every  word  and 
sentence  I heard  spoken  by  the  Arabs,  to  reflect  on  their 
bearing,  and  to  find  out  their  true  meaning,  by  which 
means,  in  the  course  of  a very  few  days,  I was  enabled 
to  comprehend  the  general  tenor  and  drift  of  their  ordi- 
nary conversation,  and  to  find  out  the  whole  meaning  of 
their  signs  and  gestures.  My  four  companions,  howev- 
er, could  scarcely  comprehend  a single  word  of  Arabic, 
even  after  they  were  redeemed. 

In  regard  to  the  route,  and  various  courses  of  our 
travel,  I would  observe,  that  after  I was  purchased  by 
the  Arabian  merchants,  and  taken  off  across  the  desert, 
I was  suffering  under  the  most  excruciating  bodily  pains, 
as  well  as  the  most  cruel  privations  ; it  will  not,  therefore, 
be  a matter  of  wonder,  if  on  this  vast,  smooth,  and 
trackless  desert,  I should  have  mistaken  one  eastern 
course  for  another,  or  have  erred  in  computing  the  dis- 
tances travelled  over  ; for  I was  frequently  in  such  agony 
and  so  weighed  down  with  weariness  and  despair,  that  a 
day  seemed  to  me  of  endless  duration.  A long  experi- 
ence on  the  ocean  had  before  taught  me  to  ascertain  the 
latitude  by  the  apparent  height  of  the  polar  star  above  the 
horizon,  so  that  in  this  particular,  I could  not  be  much 
mistaken  ; and  the  tending  of  the  coast  where  our  boat 
was  driven  on  shore,  proves  it  must  have  been  near 
Cape  Barbas.  After  we  approached  the  seacoast  again, 
I became  more  attentive  to  the  surrounding  objects,  as 
my  hopes  of  being  ransomed  increased,  so  that  not  only 
the  courses,  but  the  distances  as  I have  given  them,  will 
agree  in  all  their  essential  points. 

The  designs  for  the  engravings  were  drawn  from  my 
own  original  sketches  ; (and  they  were  merely  rough 
sketches,  for  I have  no  skill  in  drawing ;)  they  have, 
however,  been  executed  by  artists  of  considerable  re- 
pute, and  under  my  own  inspection. 

In  compiling  the  map,  particular  care  has  been  taken 
to  consult  the  best  authorities,  but  I considered,  at  the 
same  time,  that  the  information  I received  from  my  old 
Arabian  master  was  sufficiently  correct,  and  would  war- 
rant  me  in  giving  full  scope  to  my  consequent  geographi- 


y 1 TO  THE  READER. 

cal  impressions,  in  tracing  the  river  Niger  to  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  Admitting  that  my  idea  prove  hereafter  to  be 
i'ust,  and  that  this  river  actually  discharges  its  waters 
with  those  of  the  Congo,  into  the  gulf  of  Guinea,  I am 
of  opinion,  that  not  less  than  one- fourth  of  the  whole 
distance  in  a straight  line,  should  be  added  for  its  bends 
and  windings,  in  order  to  calculate  its  real  length. 

While  I was  at  Mogadore,  a number  of  singular  and 
interesting  transactions  took  place,  such  as  do  not  often 
occur  even  in  that  country  ; and  a person  might  reside 
there  for  many  years,  without  having  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  a repetition  of  them  ; yet  their  authenticity, 
as  well  as  that  of  the  other  circumstances  I have  related, 
can  be  substantiated  by  many  living  witnesses, — men  of 
respectability  and  unquestionable  veracity. 

My  observations  on  the  currents  which  have  hereto- 
fore proved  fatal  to  a vast  number  of  vessels,  and  their 
crews  on  the  western  coast  of  Africa,  are  made  with  a 
view  to  promote  the  further  investigation  of  this  subject, 
as  well  as  to  caution  the  unwary  mariner  against  their 
too  often  disastrous  effects. 

It  gives  me  sincere  pleasure,  to  acknowledge  the  ser- 
vices rendered  me  by  my  respectable  friend,  Anthony 
Bleeker,  Esquire,  of  New- York,  who  has,  at  my  re- 
quest, revised  the  whole  of  my  manuscript,  and  sug- 
gested some  very  important  explanations.  I have  been 
.governed,  in  my  corrections,  by  his  advice  throughout, 
which  was  of  a character  that  can  only  flow  from  the  most 
pure  and  disinterested  motives  ; — his  talents,  judgment 
and  erudition,  have  contributed  in  a considerable  degree 
to  smooth  down  the  asperities  of  my  unlearned  style,  and 
he  is  pre-eminently  entitled  to  my  warmest  thanks. 

To  my  very  intimate  friend,  Mr.  Josiah  Shippey,  Jun. 
of  New-York,  I am  under  many  obligations — he  has 
separately  perused  my  whole  manuscript,  with  great  care 
and  interest,  and  has  suggested  improvements,  both  in 
point  of  diction  and  grammar ; — his  highly  classical 
learning,  together  with  his  pious  adherence  to  the  true 
principles  of  sound  morality,  and  his  friendly  advice, 
have  been  of  essential  utility,  and  are  highly  appreciated. 


TO  THE  READER. 


vii 

With  respect  to  the  extraordinary  circumstance  men- 
tioned in  the  Narrative,  of  the  sudden  subsiding  of  the 
surf  when  we  were  about  committing  ourselves  to  the 
open  sea,  in  our  shattered  boat,  I am  aware  that  it  will 
be  the  subject  of  much  comment,  and,  probably,  of 
some-  raillery.  I was  advised  by  a friend,  to  suppress 
this  fact,  lest  those  who  are  not  disposed  to  believe  in  the 
particular  interposition  of  Divine  Providence,  should 
make  use  of  it  as  an  argument  against  the  correctness  of 
the  othen  parts  of  my  Narrative.  This,  probably,  would 
have  been  good  policy  in  me,  as  a mex'e  author,  for  I am 
pretty  sure  that  previous  to  this  signal  mercy,  I myself 
would  have  entertained  a suspicion  of  the  veracity  of  a 
writer  who  should  have  related  what  to  me  would  have 
appeared  such  an  improbable  occurrence.  Sentiments 
and  feelings,  however,  of  a very  different  kind  from  any 
that  mere  worldly  interest  can  excite,  forbid  me  to  sup- 
press or  deny  what  so  clearly  appeared  to  me  and  my 
companions  at  the  time,  as  the  immediate  and  merciful' 
act.  of  the  Almighty,  listening  to  our  prayers,  and  grant- 
ing our  petition  at  the  awful  moment  when  dismay, 
despair,  and  death,  were  pressing  close  upon  us  with  all 
their  accumulated  horrors.  My  heart  still  glows  with 
holy  gratitude  for  this  mercy,  and  I will  never  be  ashamed 
nor  afraid  to  acknowledge  and  make  known  to  the  world, 
the  infinite  goodness  of  my  divine  Creator  and  Pre- 
server. “ The  waters  of  the  sea  had  well-nigh  covered 
us  : the  proud  waves  had  well-nigh  gone  over  our  soul. 
Then  cried  we  unto  thee,  O Lord,  and  thou  didst 
deliver  us  out  of  our  distresses.  Thou  didst  send  forth 
thy  commandment ; and  the  windy  storm  ceased,  and 
turned  into  a calm.” 

JAMES  RILEY. 


FOR  THE  THIRD  EDITION. 


In  preparing  this  edition  for  the  press,  care  has  been 
taken  to  correct  some  errors  which  had  crept  into  the 


TO  THE  READER. 


viii 

former  ones,  and  I have  now  the  satisfaction  of  em- 
bodying with  my  book,  a new  and  interesting  Narrative 
of  a shipwreck,  and  the  sufferings  of  her  crew,  on  the 
coast  of  South- Barbary,  for  which  1 am  indebted  to  its 
respectable  author,  my  higly  esteemed  friend  ; and  I 
cherish  a hope  that  the  public  will  be  both  gratified  and 
instructed  by  perusing  so  much  additional,  important, 
and  useful  testimony  respecting  that  part  of  Africa,  and 
its  inhabitants,  so  little  known  to  the  civilized  world  ; 
and  that  mariners,  particularly,  being  thus  apprized,  will 
guard  against  the  constant  currents  which  have  caused 
such  frequent  and  dreadful  disasters  as  death,  slavery, 
and  other  almost  incredible  sufferings.  Notwithstanding 
the  bulk  of  the  additional  matter,  and  the  great  expense 
incurred  by  its  publication ; having  been  bestowed  by 
its  benevolent  author,  I have  given  it  to  the  world  with- 
out enhancing  the  price  of  my  Narrative,  to  which  it  is 
affixed. 

JAMES  RILEY, 

New- York,  June,  1818. 


CONTENTS, 


chap.  I. 

, ...  . . Page 


A brief  sketch  of  the  Author’s  Life  and  Education  up  to  the 
month  of  May,  1815,  - - - - - - 17 

CHAP.  II. 

Voyage  in  the  Commerce  from  Connecticut  River  to  New- 
Orleans, ...,22 


CHAP.  III. 

Voyage  from  Gibraltar  towards  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands,  in- 
cluding the  shipwreck  of  the  brig  Commerce,  on  the  coast 
of  Africa,  ---26 

CHAP.  IV. 

Description  of  the  natives — they  make  war  upon  the  crew,  and 
drive  them  off  to  the  wreck, 30 

CHAP.  V. 

The  natives  seize  the  author  by  perfidy,  and  then  get  possession 
of  the  money — the  author’s  critical  situation  on  shore — he 
escapes  to  the  wreck — Antonio  Michel  is  massacred,  - 37 

CHAP.  VI. 

Providential  preservation  through  the  surf  to  the  open  ocean- 
sufferings  in  their  shattered  boat  fiine  days  at  sea — landing 
again  on  the  frightful  coast  of  the  African  Desert,  - 44 

CHAP.  VII. 

Sufferings  of  the  crew,  and  manner  of  climbing  over  the  rocks 
along  the  sea-shore,  under  high  cliffs — reaching  the  surface 
of  the  desert — meeting  with  a company  of  wandering  Arabs, 
by  whom  they  are  seized  as  slaves,  and  stripped  naked,  - 

2 


52 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  VIII. 

, . , . . P:‘S° 

The  author  and  his  crew  are  carried  ou  camels  into  the  interior 
of  the  Desert  of  Zahahrah— the  Arabs  hold  a council — the 
crew  are  sold  and  distributed— the  author’s  remarkable  dream 
— the  skin  and  flesh  are  literally  roasted  oft"  from  his  body, 
and  from  the  bones  of  his  companions — their  dreadful  suffer- 
ings while  naked  aud  wandering  about  the  Desert  with  their 
masters,  subsisting  only  on  a little  camel’s  milk — two  Arab 
traders  arrive,  ....-..-67 
CHAP.  IX. 

Two  Arabian  merchants  are  persuaded  by  the  author  to  purchase 
him  and  four  of  his  suffering  companions — they  kill  a camel 
aud  prepare  to  set  out  for  Morocco  across  the  Desert,  - 8* 

CHAP.  X. 

The  author  and  four  of  his  companions  set  out  to  cross  the  De- 
sert— their  sufferings— they  come  to  a spring  of  fresh  water — 
description  of  its  singular  situation,  9® 

CHAP.  XI. 

Journeying  on  the  Desert — they  are  hospitably  entertained  by 
Arabs,  aud  come  to  a well  of  fresh  water,  ...  108 

CHAP.  XII. 

They  arrive  amongst  immense  mountains  of  driving  sand — their 
extreme  sufferings — their  masters  find  and  steal  some  barley, 
and  restore  it  again,  .......  112 

CHAP.  XIII. 

Continuation  of  the  journey  on  the  Desert — several  singular 
occurrences — they  come  within  sight  of  the  ocean,  - 119 

CHAP.  XIV. 

They  travel  along  the  sea-coast  under  the  high  banks — fall  in 
with  aud  join  a company  of  Arabs  —travel  in  the  night  for 
fear  of  robbers — Mr.  Savage  faints — is  near  being  massacred, 
and  is  rescued  by  the  author,  .....  131 

CHAP.  XV. 

Black  mountains  appear  in  the  east- — they  come  to  a river  of  salt 
water,  and  to  wells  of  fresh  water,  where  they  find  many 


CONTENTS, 


Xi 


Page 

iiorses— -description  of  a singular  plant — come  to  cultivated 
land  ; to  a fresh  water  river,  and  a few  stone  huts,  - 137 

CHAP.  XVI. 

The  company  is  divided— rthey  set  off  to  the  eastward — their 
masters  are  attacked  by  a baud  of  robbers,  - - - 144 

CHAP.  XVII. 

Some  fresh  fish  are  procured — they  pass  several  small  walled 
villages,  and  meet  with  robbers  on  horseback,  - - 149 

CHAP.  XVIII. 

Their  masters  commit  an  error,  which  they  are  compelled  to 
redress — Sidi  Hamet  and  his  brother  Seid  fight-— Horace’s 
critical  situation— -they  come  to  villages,  - - - 153 

CHAP.  XIX. 

The  author  writes  a letter— Sidi  Hamet  sets  out  with  it  for  Swea- 
rah — the  arrival  of  Sheick  Ali,  an  extraordinary  character,  161 

CHAP.  XX. 

A Moor  arrives  from  Mogadore,  bringing  a letter— the  letter — 
they  set  out  for  that  city,  - - - - - - 170 

CHAP.  XXI. 

They  come  near  the  ruins  of  a city  where  two  battering  machines 
are  standing— description  of  them — story  of  its  destruction — 
they  cross  a river,  and  a fruitful  country— lodge  in  a city,  and 
are  afterwards  stopped  by  Sheick  Ali  and  the  prince  of  an- 
other city,  - « - - - - - 178 

CHAP.  XXII. 

Rais  hel  Cossim  gains  the  friendship  of  the  prince — good  provis- 
ions are  procured — Sheick  Alps  plans  miscarry — they  set  off 
for,  and  arrive  at  Santa  Cruz,  in  the  empire  of  Morocco,  194 

CHAP.  XXIII. 

Sheick  Ali  out-manoeuvred  again  by  Rais  bel  Cossim — they  set 
off  in  the  night — meet  with  Sidi  Hamet  and  his  brother,  ac- 
companied by  some  Moors  with  mules  sent  by  Mr.  Wiltshire 
for  the  sufferers  to  ride  on-=occurrences  on  the  road— meet- 


• xn 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

ing  with  Mr.  Wiltshire  near  S we  a rah  or  Mogadore — they  go 
into  that  city — are  ordered  before  the  the  Bashaw,  * 209 

CHAP.  XXIV. 

The  author  and  his  companions  are  cleansed,  clothed,  and  fed — 
he  becomes  delirious,  but  is  again  restored  to  reason— the 
kindness  of  Mr.  Willshire — letter  from  Horatio  Sprague,  Esq. 
of  Gibraltar — author’s  reflections  on  his  past  sufferings,  and 
od  the  providential  chaiD  of  events  that  had  fitted  him  for 
enduring  them,  and  miraculously  supported  and  restored  him 
and  his  four  companions  to  their  liberty,  ...  229 

CHAP.  XXV. 

The  author’s  motives  for  requesting  of,  and  writing  down,  his 
former  master’s  narrative  of  Travels  on  the  Desert  when  in 
Mogadore,  together  with  Sidi  Hamet’s  narrative  of  a journey 
across  the  great  Desert  to  Tombuctoo,  and  back  again  to 
WidnooD,  with  a caravan,  ......  238 

Section  I.  Sidi  Hamet’s  narrative  of  a journey  from  Widnooo 
across  the  great  Desert  to  Tombuctoo,  and  back  again  to 
Widnoon,  ........  239 

Section  II.  Sidi  Hamet  sets  out  on  another  journey  for  Tom- 
buctoo— the  caravan  is  mostly  destroyed  for  want  of  water, 
by  drifting  sand,  and  by  mutiny,  &c. — the  few  that  escape 
• get  to  the  south  of  the  Desert,  .....  244 

Section  III.  Sidi  Haraet’s  journeyings.  His  arrival  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  called  by  the  natives  Gozen-Zair,  and  atTombuctoo 
— description  of  that  city — its  commerce,  wealth  and  inhabitants  24S 

Section  IV.  Sidi  Hamet  sets  out  for  Wassanah — his  arrival  there, 
and  description  of  that  city,  the  country,  and  its  inhabitants — 
of  the  great  river  which  runs  near  it,  and  of  his  return  to 
Tombuctoo — containing  also  the  author’s  geographical  opin- 
ions, founded  on  the  narrative,  on  the  sources  of  the  river 
Niger — its  length  and  outlet  into  the  Atlantic  oceau,  - 253 

Section  V.  Sidi  Hamet’s  journey  from  Tombuctoo  to  Morocco 
by  the  eastern  route — big  description  of  the  Desert,  and  of 
the  country  on  both  sides  of  it— of  a dreadful  battle  with  the 


CONTENTS. 


xiii  . 

Pagc- 

waDdering  Arabs — Sidi  Hamel  takes  his  leave  and  sets  out 
to  join  his  family, 261 

CHAP.  XXVI. 

An  account  of  the  face  of  the  great  African  Desert,  or  Zahah* 
rah — of  its  inhabitants,  their  customs,  manners,  dress,  &c. — 
a description  of  the  Arabian  camel  or  dromedary,  - 266 

CHAP.  XXVII. 

Some  account  of  Suse,  or  South-Barbary,  and  of  its  inhabi- 
tants, cities,  &c. — the  primitive  plough,  and  mode  of  using 
it— primitive  chum,  and  method  of  making  butter,  - 290 

CHAP.  XXVIII. 

Some  account  of  an  insurrection  in  Morocco — the  Bashaw  of 
Swearah  is  seized  and  pul  in  irons — change  of  Governors — the 
Jews  are  forced  to  pay  their  tribute  or  turn  Mohammedans — 
their  treatment  by  the  Moors- — a Jew  burial — a circumcision 
— a Jewish  priest  arrives  from  Jerusalem — the  author  obtains 
from  him  some  account  of  the  present  Jerusalem  and  its  inhab- 
itants, and  of  the  method  pursued  by  the  priests  for  getting 
money  from  the  Jews  in  Europe  and  Barbary — a Moorish 
execution  and  maiming — of  the  Jews  in  West  Barbary  - 295 

CHAP.  XXIX. 

New  orders  arrive  from  the  Emperor — Mr.  Willshire  is  grossly 
insulted  by  the  Moors — a description  of  the  city  and  port  of 
Swearah,  or  Mogadore,  its  inhabitants,  commerce,  manufac- 
tures, &c. - - 313 

\ 

CHAP.  XXX. 

Of  the  Moors  and  Moorish  Arabs — feast  of  expiation-— A 
Moorish  review  and  sham-fight— horsemanship — of  the  Ara- 
bian horse  and  his  furniture  .....  322 

CHAP.  XXXI. 

The  present  Arabs  and  ancient  Jews  compared  - - 333 

CHAP.  XXXII. 

The  author  ships  his  companions  on  board  a vessel  for  Gibral- 
tar, and  sets  out  himself  to  travel  by  land  for  Tangier— 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

villany  of  his  Jew  companion — account  of  a great  Moorish 
saint — description  of  the  country — of  the  towns — of  El 
Ksebbah  anil  Saffy 33* 

CHAP.  XXXIII. 

Continuation  of  the  journey— description  of  Ashed  re— of  a 
flight  of  locusts— of  the  destroying  locust  of  Africa — Maza- 
gan — Azamore — Darlbeda — Fidallah — -arrival  at  Rhabat — of 
Rhabat 351 

CHAP.  XXX I Y. 

Description  of  a horrid  show  of  two  venomous  serpents — sets 
out  from  Rhabat — of  Sallee,  Mamora,  Laresch — Spanish  mis- 
sionaries— Moorish  navy — arrival  at  Tangier  - - 368 

CHAP.  XXXV. 

Moorish  captives — of  Tangier  and  Christian  Consuls — passage 
to  Gibraltar,  reception  there — embarks  for  America— obser- 
vations on  Gibraltar — passage  in  the  ship  Rapid — arrival  at 
New-York— visits  his  family — goes  to  Washington  city,  the 
seat  of  government,  and  concludes  with  brief  remarks  on 
slavery  - - - - - - - ^ - - 382 

APPENDIX. 

Observations  on  the  winds,  currents,  &c.  in  some  parts  of  the 
Atlantic  ocean,  developing  the  causes  of  so  many  shipwrecks 
on  the  western  coast  of  Africa — mode  pointed  out  for  visiting 
the  famous  city  of  Tombuctoo,  on  the  river  Niger,  &c. 


CERTIFICATE. 


Captain  James  Rieey  has  submitted  his  Narrative  to  my  perusal,  and  I have 
read  it  over  with  great  care  and  attention.  J was  his  second  mate  on  board  the 
Commerce,  and  one  of  his  unfortunate  companions  through,  and  a sharer  in  his 
dreadful  sufferings  and  captivity,  on  the  inhospitable  shores  and  deserts  of  Africa, 
and  1 am  astonished  to  find  with  what  precision  the  whole  of  those  incidents  are 
related — it  recalls  to  my  memory  all  those  dismal  occurrences  and  distresses,  and 
1 do  hereby  certify,  that  the  Narrative  up  to  the  time  of  our  separation  in  Moga= 
dore,  contains  nothing  more  than  a plain  statement  of  facts,  and  that  myself,  as 
well  as  others  of  the  crew,  owe  our  lives,  liberties,  and  restoration  to  our  country, 
under  God , to  his  uncommon  exertions,  fortitude,  intelligence,  and  perseverance,, 
and  1 hereby  request  him,  as  roy  friend,  to  publish  this  my  certificate. 


AARON  R.  SAVAGE 


Done  at  New-York,  this  1st  day  i 
February-,  JL  I),  1817. 


DIRECTIONS  TO  THE  BINDER  FOR  PLACING  THE  PLATES. 


Portrait  to  face  title  page. 

Map  • - ' " " " ' * * 

Wreck  of  the  brig  Commerce  oil  the  coast  of  Africa— The  Author  s 

escape  from  the  Arabs  - - - - * 

Captuile  of  the  Author  and  teu  of  his  crew  by  a tribe  of  wandering 
Arabs,  near  Cape  Barbas  -------- 

Arab  tents  in  the  Desert  of  Sahara  - . - - - 

The  Arabic  Letter  (not  before  published)  - 
View  of  a town  or  city  in  Suse,  (South  Barbary,)  on  the  point  of 
being  sacked  by  the  Arabs 

The  Author  and  his  men’s  first  interview  with  Mr.  Wiltshire — with 
a distant  view  of  Mogadore  - ■ 

The  original  Plough,  and  mode  of  using  it.  View  of  Camels,  and 

primitive  method  of  making  butter 

A Jewish  circumcision  witnessed  by  the  Author  in  Mogadore 

Destructive  Locust  of  Africa  - - 


to  face  page  17 
43 


63 

80 

171 

181 

227 

293 

■312 

352 


NARRATIVE,  &c. 


CHAPTEU  I. 

{ brief  sketch  of  the  Author's  Life  and  Education , up  to 
the  month  of  Map , 1815. 

I was  born  in  the  town  of  Middletown,  in  the  state  of 
Connecticut,  on  the  27th  of  October,  in  the  year  1777, 
during  the  war  between  England  and  America,  which  ter- 
minated in  1783,  with  the  acknowledgment  by  the  mother 
country  of  the  freedom,  sovereignty,  and  independence  of 
the  thirteen  United  States.  My  father,  Asher  Riley,  who 
still  lives  in  the  same  place,  was  bred  to  the  farming  busi- 
ness, and  at  an  early  age  married  my  mother,  Rebecca  Sage, 
who  is  also  yet  living.  I was  their  fourth  child.  Owing 
to  an  attack  of  that  dangerous  disorder,  the  liver  complaint, 
my  father  was  rendered  incapable  of  attending  to  his  usual 
employment  for  several  years,  during  which  time,  his 
property,  very  small,  at  first,  was  entirely  expended  ; but 
after  his  recovery,  in  1786,  he  was  enabled,  by  industry 
and  strict  economy,  to  support  his  increasing  family  in  a 
decent  manner. 

It  may  not  be  improper  here,  before  I speak  of  my 
education,  to  give  a general  idea  of  what  was  then  termed 
a common  education  in  Connecticut.  This  state  is  divided 
into  counties  and  towns,  and  the  towns  into  societies  ; in 
each  of  which  societies,  the  inhabitants,  by  common  con- 
sent, and  at  their  common  expense,  erect  a school-house, 
in  which  to  educate  their  children.  If  the  society  is  too 
large  for  only  one  school,  it  is  again  subdivided  into  dis- 
tricts, and  each  district  erects  a school- house  for  its  own 
accommodation.  This  is  generally  done  by  a tax  levied  by 
themselves,  and  apportioned  according  to  the  pmpertv  or 


18 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE 


capacity  of  each  individual.  It  being  for  the  general  good, 
all  cheerfully  pay  their  apportionment.  Thus  prepared, 
they  hire  a teacher  to  instruct  their  children  in  reading  and 
writing,  and  some  of  them  are  taught  the  fundamental  rules 
of  arithmetic.  They,  for  the  most  part,  hire  a male  teacher 
for  four  months  in  the  year,  say  from  October  to  March, 
and  his  compensation  (at  the  time  I am  speaking  of)  was 
from  six  to  ten  dollars  a month,  with  his  board.  In  order 
to  obtain  his  board,  he  was  under  the  necessity  of  going 
to  each  of  his  employers’  houses  in  rotation,  making  his 
time  in  each  family  as  equal  as  possible  and  in  proportion 
to  the  number  of  children  therein.  In  this  way  all  the 
parents  became  acquainted  with  the  master  or  mistress.  In 
the  summer  one  of  the  best  informed  girls  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood was  selected  to  teach  the  youngest  children.  To 
defray  the  expense  arising  from  this  system,  a tax  was  laid,, 
and  every  man,  whether  married  or  unmarried,  with  chil- 
dren or  without  them,  was  obliged  to  pay  the  sum  at  which 
he  was  rated,  and  in  this  manner  every  one  contributed  for 
the  good  of  the  whole.  In  each  society  one  or  more  meet- 
ing-houses were  established,  whose  congregations  were 
either  Presbyterians  or  Congregationalists,  and  a minister 
(as  he  is  called)  regularly  ordained  and  located  for  a yearly 
stipend  or  salary,  and  generally  during  life.  This  was  an 
old  and  steady  habit „ The  minister  was  considered  as  the 
head  of  the  school,  as  well  as  of  the  meeting,  and  his  like 
or  dislike  was  equivalent  to  a law.  All  the  children  in  each 
district,  whether  rich  or  poor,  went  to  this  school : all  had 
an  equal  right  to  this  kind  of  country  education.  To  one 
of  these  district  schools  I was  sent  at  the  age  of  four  years, 
where  I continued,  learning  to  spell  and  read,  until  I was 
eight  years  old,  when  my  father’s  family  had  increased  to 
seven  or  eight  children,  with  a fair  prospect  of  more,  (it 
afterwards  amounted  to  thirteen  in  number.) 

Finding  it  difficult  to  support  us  all  as  he  wished,  and  I 
having  become  a stout  boy  of  my  age,  he  placed  me  with 
a neighbouring  farmer  to  earn  my  living,  by  assisting  him 
in  his  work.  From  the  age  of  eight  to  fourteen  years  I 
worked  on  the  land  with  different  farmers  in  our  neigh- 
bourhood, who  having  received  but  a very  scanty  educa- 
tion themselves,  conceited,  nevertheless,  that  they  were 


OF  ms  OWN  LIFE. 


19 


overstocked  with  learning,  as  is  generally  the  case  with  the 
most  ignorant,  and  in  this,  their  fancied  wisdom,  con- 
cluded that  much  less  than  they  themselves  possessed  would 
answer  my  purpose,  as  I was  but  a poor  bov  ! ! Finding 
therefore  that  they  would  lose  my  labour  during  school 
hours,  (for  they  had  always  taken  great  care  to  keep  me 
fully  employed  in  hard  drudgery  every  moment  I was  out 
of  school,  scarcely  allowing  me  the  usual  hours  of  refresh- 
ment and  sleep, ) they  kept  me  from  school,  merely  because, 
as  they  stated,  they  could  not  get  along  with  their  work 
without  my  help.  When  my  parents  remonstrated  against 
such  conduct  in  those  who  had  come  under  a most  solemn 
agreement  to  give  me  a plenty  of  schooling , they  were 
assured  “ that  I was  a very  forward  boy  ; that  I could  spell 
and  read  as  well  as  any  of  the  boys  of  my  age ; that  I 
could  repeat  whole  chapters  in  the  Bible  by  heart,  and  knew 
all  the  Catechism  and  Creed,  viz.  the  Presbyterian,  which 
then  was,  and  still  is  considered,  all  important  in  that  sec- 
tion of  the  union  called  New- England  : that  I could  sing- 
psalms  in  the  separate  meetings  full  as  well  as  those  who  had 
learned  to  sing  by  note,  “ though  indeed  he  cannot  write, 
(said  they)  because  he  has  no  turn  for  writing.”  These 
representations  tended  in  some  measure  to  allay  the  anxiety 
of  my  parents,  who  wished  me  above  ail  things  to  have  a 
good  common  country  education,  as  they  at  that  time  had 
no  prospect  of  being  able  to  give  me  any  thing  better. 
They  had  taught  me,  both  by  precept  and  practice,  that  to 
be  honest,  industrious,  and  prudent ; to  govern  my  pas- 
sions, (which  were  violent,)  to  feel  for  and  relieve  the  dis- 
tresses of  others  when  in  my  power ; to  be  mild  and  affable 
in  my  manners,  and  virtuous  in  all  my  actions,  was  to  be 
happy  ; and  they,  generally,  had  instilled  into  my  youthful 
mind  every  good  principle. 

I had  now  attained  my  fifteenth  year.;  was  tall  and  stout 
for  my  age  ; and  having  become  tired  of  hard  work  on  the 
land,  I concluded  that  the  best  way  to  get  rid  of  it,  was  to 
go  to  sea  and  visit  foreign  countries.  My  parents  endea- 
voured to  dissuade  me  from  this  project,  and  wished  me 
to  learn  some  mechanical  trade  ; but  finding  that  I could 
not  fix -my  mind  upon  any  other  business,  they,  with  great 
reluctance,  consented  to  my  choice ; and  I,  accordingly, 


20 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE 


shipped  on  board  a sloop  bound  to  the  West-Indies, 
Having  no  friend  to  push  me  forward,  no  dependence  but 
on  my  own  good  conduct  and  exertions,  and  being  ambi- 
tious to  gain  some  distinction  in  the , profession  I had 
chosen,  I contrived  to  acquire  some  knowledge  in  the  art 
of  navigation,  theoretically  as  well  as  practically,  and  at 
the  age  of  twenty  years  had  passed  through  the  grades  of 
cabin  boy,  cook,  ordinary  seaman,  seaman,  second  mate, 
and  chief  mate,  on  board  different  vessels.  I was  now 
six  feet  and  one  inch  in  height,  and  proportionably  strong 
and  athletic,  when  finding  the  sphere  I then  moved  in  to  be 
too  limited  for  my  views  and  wishes,  (it  extending  only 
from  Connecticut  river  or  New-Londou  to  the  West- Indies, 
and  back  again,)  I went  to  New-York,  where  I was  soon 
appointed  to  the  command  of  a good  vessel,  and  since  that 
time  have  continued  in  similar  employment  ; making- 
voyages  in  all  climates  usually  visited  by  American  ships ; 
traversing  almost  every  sea,  and  travelling  by  land  through 
many  of  the  principal  states  and  empires  of  the  world. 
For  several  years  I had  charge  of  the  cargoes  as  well  as  of 
the  vessels  I sailed  in,  and  had  a fair  share  of  prosperity, 
until  the  month  of  January,  1308,  when  my  ship,  the 
Two  Marys  of  New-York,  was  seized  by  the  French,  as 
I took  shelter  in  Belle  Isle,  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  from 
some  English  men  of  war,  being  bound  for  Nantz  ; and 
the  ship,  with  her  valuable  cargo,  was  confiscated,  under 
the  memorable  Milan  Decree  of  the  17th  December,  1807, 
founded  on  the  well  known  Orders  in  Council,  of  the  11th 
November,  of  the  same  year.  I remained  in  France  until 
the  ship  and  cargo  were  condemned,  and  did  not  return  to 
my  native  country  and  family,  till  the  latter  part  of  the 
year  1809,  with  the  loss,  it  is  true,  of  nearly  all  the  pro- 
perty I had  before  acquired,  but  wiser  than  I went  out ; 
for  I had  learned  to  read,  write,  and  speak  both  the  French 
and  Spanish  languages ; had  travelled  pretty  much  all  over 
France,  where  I had  opportunities  of  witnessing  many 
important  operations  in  the  science  of  war,  calculated  to 
attract  my  attention  to  the  principles  upon  which  they  were 
founded ; and  I,  at  the  same  time,  took  lessons  in  the 
school  of  adversity,  which  tended  to  prepare  and  discipline 
my  mind  for  the  future  hardships  I was  destined  to  under- 


OF  HIS  OWN  LIFE. 


21 


go.  I now  strove  with  all  my  power  to  stem  the  tide  of 
misfortune,  which  began  to  set  in  against  me  with  impetu- 
ous force.  I had  become  a husband,  and  the  father  of  four 
children,  who  looked  up  to  me  for  support,  and  I strained 
every  nerve  to  retrieve  my  lost  fortune,  by  trading  to  sea  : 
but  it  was  of  no  avail ; every  thing  proved  adverse,  and 
after  an  absence  of  two  years  to  Spain,  Portugal,  the  Bra- 
zils, Rio  de  la  Plata,  or  River  of  Silver,  in  South- Ameri- 
ca,  the  West-Indies,  New-Orleans,  &c.  I returned  home 
at  the  commencement  of  the  late  war  (1812)  pennyless. 
Unarmed  commerce  on  the  ocean,  my  element,  was  at  an 
end  in  an  honourable  way,  and  I could  not  obtain  a station 
I wished  for  in  the  navy,  nor  could  I obtain  the  command 
of  a private  armed  vessel  that  suited  my  views,  owing  to 
the  want  of  funds  ; nor  would  I accept  of  the  command  of 
a vessel  and  the  consignment  of  a cargo  navigated  contrary 
to  the  laws  of  war,  under  foreign  licenses  : this  I con- 
sidered would  derogate  from  the  character  I always  'wished 
to  support,  that  of  a true  friend  to  my  country,  (whether 
in  prosperity  or  adversity,)  and  a firm  supporter  of  its  laws 
i and  institutions,  which  I had  proved  by  long  experience  in 
j:  the  ways  of  the  world  to  be  as  good  (at  least)  as  those  of 
any  country  under  heaven.  Though  the  offers  that  were 
made  me  were  great  and  tempting,  so  that  my  acceptance 
of  them  could  scarcely  have  failed  of  producing  me  a 
handsome  fortune,  and  that  in  a very  short  period,  yet  I 
remained  at  home  during  the  whole  war,  making  use  of  all 
my  faculties  to  gain  a decent  subsistence  for  my  family. 
Soon  after  the  burning  of  the  Capitol  and  other  public 
and  private  buildings  at  the  seat  of  government,  by  the 
enemy,  in  August,  1814,  when  their  commanders  loudly 
threatened  to  destroy  every  assailable  place  on  the  seaboard, 
I believed  that  the  time  was  near  when  every  arm  would 
be  required  for  the  general  defence,  particularly  at  the  ex- 
posed seaport  towns  ; and  having  enrolled  myself  in  a 
volunteer  company  of  military  exempt  artillerists,  composed 
chiefly  of  masters  and  mates  of  vessels,  and  seamen,  I had 
the  honour  of  being  chosen  their  captain.  But  our  services 
I were  not  needed  in  the  field = 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


OO 


CHAPTER  II. 

VoT/age  in  the  Commerce  from  Connecticut  River  to 
New-  Orleans. 

After  the  close  of  the  war,  in  April,  1815,  being  then 
in  my  native  state,  I was  employed  as  master  ancl  super- 
cargo of  the  brig  Commerce  of  Hartford,  in  Connecticut ; 
a vessel  nearly  new,  and  well  fitted,  of  about  two  hundred 
and  twenty  tons  burden,  belonging  to  Messrs.  Riley  & 
Brown,  Josiah  Savage  & Co.  and  Luther  Savage,  of  that 
city.  A light  cargo  was  taken  on  board,  and  1 shipped  a 
crew,  consisting  of  the  following  persons,  namely  ; George 
Williams,  chief  mate,  Aaron  R.  Savage,  second  mate, 
William  Porter,  Archibald  Robbins,  Thomas  Burns,  and 
James  Clark,  seamen  ; James  Carrington  and  Francis  Bliss, 
ordinary  seamen  ; Horace  Savage,  cabin  boy,  and  Richard 
Deslisle,  (a  black  man)  cook.  This  man  had  been  a ser- 
vant during  the  late  war  to  Captain  Daniel  Ketchum,  .of  the 
25th  regiment  of  United  States’  infantry,  who  distinguished 
himself  by  taking  prisoner  the  English  Major-General  Rial, 
at  the  dreadful  battle  of  Bridgewater  in  Upper  Canada,  and 
by  several  other  heroic  achievements. 

With  this  crew  I proceeded  to  sea  from  the  mouth  of 
Connecticut  river,  on  the  sixth  day  of  May,  1815,  bound 
for  New-Orleans.  We  continued  to  steer  for  the  Bahama 
Islands,  as  winds  and  weather  permitted,  until  the  twentieth  j 
of  the  same  month,  when  we  saw  the  southernmost  part  of 
the-island  of  Abaco,  and  passing  the  Hole  in  the  Wall,  on 
the  twenty-first,  entered  on  the  Grand  Bahama  Bank  to  the 
leeward  of  the  northernmost  Berri  Islands  ; from  thence, 
with  a fair  wind  and  good  breeze,  we  steered  W.  S.  W. 
twelve  leagues  ; then  S.  S.  W.  about  forty  leagues,  crossing 
the  Bank,  in  from  three  to  four  fathoms  water.  On  the 
morning  of  the  twenty-second  we  saw  the  Orange  Key  on 
our  starboard  beam  ; altered  our  course,  and  ran  off  the 
Bank,  leaving  them  on  our  starboard  hand  distant  one 
league.  The  water  on  this  Great  Bank,  in  most  places, 
appears  as  white  as  milk,  owing  to  the  white  sand  at  the 
bottom  gleaming  through  it,  and  is  so  clear  that  an  object, 


VOYAGE  IN  THE  COMMERCE. 


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the  size  of  a dollar,  can  be  easily  seen  lying  on  the  bottom 
in  four  fathom  water,  in  a still  time.  Having  got  off  the 
Bank,  we  steered  W.  S W.  for  the  Double-headed  Shot 
Bank,  and  at  meridian  found  ourselves,  by  good  observa- 
tions, in  the  latitude  of  24.  30.  being  nearly  that  of  the 
Orange  Keys.  In  the  afternoon  it  became  nearly  calm,  but 
a good  breeze  springing  up,  we  continued  our  course  all 
night  W.  S.  W.  I remained  on  deck  myself,  on  a sharp 
look  out  for  the  Double-headed  Shot  Bank,  or  Keys,  until 
four  o’clock  A.  M.  when  judging  by  our  distance  we  must 
be  far  past  them,  and  consequently  clear  of  that  danger,  I 
ordered  the  chief  mate,  who  had  charge  of  the  watch,  to 
keep  a good  look  out,  on  all  sides,  for  land,  white  water 
and  breakers  ; and  after  repeating  the  same  to  the  people,  I 
went  below  to  take  a nap.  At  about  five  (then  fair  day- 
light) I was  awakened  by  a shock,  and.  thought  I felt  the 
vessel  touch  bottom.  I sprang  on  deck,  put  the  helm  to 
starboard,  had  all  hands  called  in  an  instant,  and  saw 
breakers  ahead  and  to  southward,  close  on  board ; apparently 
a sound  on  our  right,  and  land  to  the  northward,  at  about 
two  leSteues  distance.  The  vessel’s  head  was  towards  the 
S.  W.  and  she  running  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  the  hour.  I 
instantly  seized  the  helm,  put  it  hard  to  port,  ordered  all 
sails  to  be  let  run,  and  the  anchors  cleared  away.  The 
vessel  touched  lightly,  three  or  four  times : when  I found 
she  was  over  the  reef,  let  go  an  anchor,  which  brought  her 
up  in  two  and  a half  fathoms,  or  fifteen  feet  of  water,  which 
was  quite  smooth.  We  now  handed  all  the  sails,  and 
lowered  down  the  boat.  I went  in  her  with  four  hands,  and 
sounded  out  a passage  ; found  plenty  of  water  to  leeward  of 
the  reef;  returned  and  got  under  way,  and -at  seven, 
o’clock,  A.  M.  was  in  the  open  sea  again,  with  a fresh 
breeze. 

This  being  the  first  time,  in  the  course  of  my  navigating, 
that  any  vessel  which  I was  in  had  struck  the  bottom  unex- 
pectedly, I own  I was  so  much  surprised  and  shocked,  that 
my  whole  frame  trembled,  and  I couid  scarcely  believe  that 
what  had  happened  was  really  true,  until  by  comparing  the 
causes  and  effects  of  the  currents  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  I 
was  convinced  that  during  the  light  winds,  the  day  before, 
when  in  the  Santarem  Channel,  the  vessel  had  been  drifted 


24 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


by  the  current  that  runs  N.  N.  W.  (and  at  that  time  very 
strong)  so  far  north  of  the  Double-headed  Shot  Bank  ; tha 
my  course  in  the  night,  though  the  only  proper  one  I coulc 
have  steered,  was  such  as  kept  the  current  on  the  larboarc 
bow  of  the  vessel,  which  had  horsed  her  across  it  sixty 
miles  out  of  her  course  in  sixteen  hours,  and  would  have 
landed  her  on  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  Carysford  Reef  in  twc 
minutes  more,  where  she  must  have  been  totally  lost.  As 
so  many  vessels  of  all  nations  who  navigate  this  stream 
have  perished  with  their  cargoes,  and  oftentimes  their, 
crews,  I mention  this  incident  to  warn  the  navigator  of  the 
danger  he  is  in  when  his  vessel  is  acted  upon  by  these  cur- 
rents, where  no  calculation  can  be  depended  upon,  and 
where  nothing  but  very  frequent  castings  of  the  lead,  and 
a good  look  out,  can  secure  him  from  their  too  often  fatal 
consequences.  <j 

Having  settled  this  point  in  my  own  mind,  I became 
tranquil,  and  we  continued  to  run  along  the  Florida  Keys 
from  W.  S.  W.  to  West  by  South,  in  from  thirty  to  forty 
fathoms  water,  about  four  leagues  distant,  seeing  from  one 
to  two  leagues  within  us  many  rocks  and  little  sandy  isl- 
ands, just  above  the  water’s  edge,  with  a good  depth  of 
water  all  around  them,  until  noon  on  the  24th,  when  we  j 
doubled  the  dry  Tortugas  Islands  in  ten  fathoms,  and  on 
the  26th  arrived  in  the  Mississippi  river,  passed  Fort  St. 
Philip  at  Pluquemines  the  same  night,  having  shown  my 
papers  to  the  commanding  officer  of  that  post  (as  is  cus- 
tomary.) | 

My  previous  knowledge  of  the  river  and  the  manner  of 
getting  up  it,  enabled  me  to  pass  nearly  one  hundred  sail 
of  vessels  that  were  in  before  me,  and  by  dint  of  great  and 
continued  exertions,  to  arrive  with  my  vessel  before  the 
city  of  New- Orleans,  on  the  first  day  of  June.  Here  we 
discharged  our  cargo,  and  took  another  on  board,  princi- 
pally on  freight,  in  which  I was  assisted  by  Messrs.  Tal-  j 
cott  fk.  Bowers,  respectable  merchants  in  that  city.  This  j 
cargo  consisted  of  tobacco  and  flour.  The  two  ordinary 
seamen,  Francis  Bliss  and  James  Carrington,  now  wished 
for  a discharge,  and  received  it.  1 then  shipped  in  their 
stead  John  Hogan  and  James  Barrett,  both  seamen  and  na-. 
lives  of  the  state  of  Massachusetts. 


VOYAGE  IN  THE  COMMERCE. 


25 


I With  this  crew  and  cargo  we  sailed  from  New-Orleans 
J:  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  June  ; left  the  river  on  the  twenty - 
‘I sixth,  and  proceeded  for  Gibraltar,  where  we  arrived  on 
fthe  ninth  of  August  following,  and  landed  our  cargo. 
? About  the  thirteenth  the  schooner  Louisa,  Capt.  Price,  of 
land  from  New-York,  in  a short  passage,  came  into  the 
c Bay,  and  the  captain  on  his  landing  told  me  he  was  bound 
l'  up  to  Barcelona,  and  that  if  I would  go  on  board  his  vessel, 
} which  was  then  standing  off  and  on  in  the  Bay,  he  would 

II  give  me  a late  New-York  Price  Current,  and  some  news- 
l(  papers.  I was  in  great  want  of  a Price  Current  for  my  guide 
r-  in  making  purchases,  and  accordingly  went  on  board.  The 
d wind  blowing  strong  in,  and  the  vessel  far  out,  I had  to 
^ take  four  men  with  me,  namely,  James  Clark,  James  Bar- 
- rett,  William  Porter,  and  John  Hogan.  Having  received 

the  Price  Current,  &c.  I left  the  schooner  about  sunset, 
ewhen  they  immediately  filled  her  sails  and  stood  on.  As 
's  we  were  busied  in  stepping  the  boat’s  mast  to  sail  back,  a 
y :oppling  sea  struck  her,  and  nearly  filled  her  with  water  ; 
e we  all  jumped  instantly  overboard,  in  the  hope  of  pre- 
• renting  her  from  filling,  but  she  filled  immediately. 
)f  Providentially  the  captain  of  the  schooner  heard  me  halloo, 
e hough  at  least  a mile  from  us  ; put  his  vessel  about,  came 
i tear  us,  sent  his  boat,  and  saved  our  lives  and  our  boat, 
vhich  being  cleared  of  water,  and  it  being  after  dark,  we 
eturned  safe  alongside  of  the  brig  by  ten  o’clock  at  night, 

■ Ahen  the  boat  filled,  we  were  more  than  three  miles  from 
he  Rock,  in  the  Gut,  where  the  current  would  have  set 

I is  into  the  Mediterranean,  and  we  must  have  inevitably 
it  lerished  before  morning ; but  we  were  spared,  in  order  to 
1 uffer  a severer  doom,  and  miseries  worse  than  death,  on 

■ he  barbarous  shores  of  Africa. 

( We  now  took  on  board  part  of  a cargo  of  brandies  and 
rines,  and  some  dollars,  say  about  two  thousand,  and  an 
Id  man  named  Antonio  Michel,  a native  of  New-Orleans, 
s'  i’ho  had  previously  been  wrecked  on  the  island  of  Tene- 
1 iffe,  and  was  recommended  to  my  charity  by  Mr.  Gavino, 
v7ho  at  that  time  exercised  the  functions  of  American 
' Consul  at  Gibraltar. 


4 


26 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Voijage  from  Gibraltar  towards  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands. 

including  the  shipwreck  of  the  brig  Commerce  on  the 

coast  of  Africa. 

We  set  sail  from  the  bay  of  Gibraltar  on  the  23d  of 
August,  1815,  intending  to  go  by  way  of  the  Cape  de 
Verd  Islands,  to  complete  the  lading  of  the  vessel  with 
salt.  We  passed  Cape  Spartel  on  the  morning  of  the! 
24th,  giving  it  a birth  of  from  ten  to  twelve  leagues,  and 
steered  off  to  the  W.  S.  W.  I intended  to  make  the 
Canary  Islands,  and  pass  between  Teneriffe  and  Palma,! 
having  a fair  wind  j but  it  being  very  thick  and  foggy 
weather,  though  we  got  two  observations  at  noon,  neither 
could  be  much  depended  upon.  On  account  of  the  fog, 
we  saw  no  land,  and  found,  by  good  meridian  altitudes  1 
on  the  twenty-eighth,  that  we  were  in  the  latitude  of 
27.  30.  N.  having  differed  our  latitude  by  the  force  of 
current,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  ; thus  passing  the 
Canaries  without  seeing  any  of  them.  I concluded  we 
must  have  passed  through  the  intended  passage  without 
discovering  the  land  on  either  side,  particularly  as  it  was: 
in  the  night,  which  was  very  dark,  and  black  as  pitch ;! 
nor  could  I believe  otherwise  from  having  had  a fair  wind 
all  the  way,  and  having  steered  one  course  ever  since  we 
took  our  departure  from  Cape  Spartel.  Soon  after  we 
got  an  observation  on  the  28th,  it  became  as  thick  as 
ever,  and  the  darkness  seemed  (if  possible)  to  increase. 
Towards  evening  I got  up  my  reckoning,  and  examined 
it  all  over,  to  be  sure  that  I had  committed  no  error,  and 
caused  the  mates  to  do  the  same  with  theirs.  Having 
thus  ascertained  that  I was  correct  in  calculation,  I altered 
our  course  to  S.  W.  which  ought  to  have  carried  us 
nearly  on  the  course  I wished  to  steer,  that  is,  for  the 
easternmost  of  the  Cape  de  Verds  ; but  finding  the  weath« 
er  becoming  more  foggy  towards  night,  it  being  so  thick 
that  we  could  scarcely  see  the  end  of  the  jib-boom,  I 
rounded  the  vessel  to,  and  sounded  with  one  hundred  and 
twenty  fathoms  of  line,  but  found  no  bottom,  and  con-  ; 


VOYAGE  IN  THE  COMMERCE. 


27 


tinned  on  our  course,  still  reflecting  on  what  should  be 
the  cause  of  our  not  seeing  land,  (as  I never  had  passed 
near  the  Canaries  before  without  seeing  them,  even  in 
thick  weather  or  in  the  night.)  I came  to  a determina- 
tion to  haul  off  to  the  N.  W.  by  the  wind  at  ten  P.  M. 
as  I should  then  be  by  the  log  only  thirty  miles  north  of 
Cape  Bajador.  I concluded  on  this  at  nine,  and  thought 
oi  my  fears  had  never  before  so  much  prevailed  over  my 
d<  judgment  and  my  reckoning.  I ordered  the  light  sails  to 
•t!  be  handed,  and  the  steering  sail  booms  to  be  rigged  in 
a snug,  which  was  done  as  fast  as  it  could  be  by  one  watch, 
in  under  the  immediate  direction  of  Mr.  Savage, 
hi  We  had  just  got  the  men  stationed  at  the  braces  for 
ia  hauling  off,  as  the  man  at  helm  cried  “ ten  o’clock.” 
3 Our  try-sail  boom  was  on  the  starboard  side,  but  ready 
0! for  jibing;  the  helm  was  put  to  port,  dreaming  of  no 
^danger  near.  I had  been  on  deck  all  the  evening  myself ; 

« the  vessel  was  running  at  the  rate  of  nine  or  ten  knots, 
o with  a very  strong  breeze,  and  high  sea,  ’when  the  main 
o boom  was  jibed  over,  and  I at  that  instant  heard  a roaring ; 
in  the  yards  were  braced  up — all  hands  were  called.  I ima- 
vi  gined  at  first  it  was  a squall,  and  was  near  ordering  the 
u sails  to  be  lowered  down  ; but  I then  discovered  breakers 
a foaming  at  a most  dreadful  rate  under  our  lee.  Hope  for 
a moment  flattered  me  that  we  could  fetch  off  still,  as  there 
were  no  breakers  in  view  ahead  : the  anchors  were  made 
ready  ; but  these  hopes  vanished  in  an  instant,  as  the  vessel 
was  carried  by  a current  and  a sea  directly  towards  the 
breakers,  and  she  struck ! We  let  go  the  best  bower  an- 
chor ; all  sails  were  taken  in  as  fast  as  possible : surge 
after  surge  came  thundering  on,  and  drove  her  in  spite  of 
anchors,  partly  with  her  head  on  shore.  She  struck  with 
such  violence  as  to  start  every  man  from  the  deck.  Know- 
ing there  was  no  possibility  of  saving  her,  and  that  she 
must  very  soon  bilge  and  All  with  water,  I ordered  ail  the 
provisions  we  could  get  at  to  be  brought  on  deck,  in  hopes 
of  saving  some,  and  as  much  water  to  be  drawn  from  the 
large  casks  as  possible.  We  started  several  quarter  casks 
of  wine,  and  filled  them  with  water.  Every  man  worked 
as  if  his  life  depended  upon  his  present  exertions  ; all  were 
obedient  to  every  order  I gave,  and  seemed  perfectly 


28 


CAPTAIN'  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


calm.  The  vessel  was  stout  and  high,  as  she  was  only  in 
ballast  trim  : the  sea  combed  over  her  stern  and  swept  her 
decks  ; but  we  managed  to  get  the  small  boat  in  on  deck, 
to  sling  her  and  keep  her  from  staving.  We  cut  away  the 
bulwark  on  the  larboard  side  so  as  to  prevent  the  boats  from 
staving  when  we  should  get  them  out ; cleared  away  the 
long  boat  and  hung  her  in  tackles,  the  vessel  continuing  to 
strike  very  heavy,  and  filling  fast.  W e however,  had  se- 
cured five  or  six  barrels  of  water,  and  as  many  of  wine, — 
three  barrels  of  bread,  and  three  or  four  of  salted  provisions. 

I had  as  yet  been  so  busily  employed,  that  no  pains  had 
been  taken  to  ascertain  what  distance  we  were  from  the 
land,  nor  had  any  of  us  yet  seen  it ; and  in  the  mean  time 
all  the  clothing,  chests,  trunks,  &c.  were  got  up,  and  the 
books,  charts,  and  sea  instruments,  were  stowed  in  them,, 
in  the  hope  of  their  being  useful  to  us  in  future. 

The  vessel  being  now  nearly  full  of  water,  the  surf 
making  a fair  breach  over  her,  and  fearing  she  would  go 
to  pieces,  I prepared  a rope,  and  put  it  in  the  small  boat, 
having  got  a glimpse  of  the  shore,  at  no  great  distance, 
and  taking  Porter  with  me,  we  were  lowered  down  on  the 
larboard  or  lee  side  of  the  vessel,  where  she  broke  the  vi- 
olence of  the  sea,  and  made  it  comparatively  smooth  ; we 
shoved  off,  but  on  clearing  away  from  the  bow  of  the  ves- 
sel, the  boat  was  overwhelmed  with  a surf,  and  we  were 
plunged  into  the  foaming  surges  : we  were  driven  along  ; 
by  the  current,  aided  by  what  seamen  call  the  undertow, 
(or  recoil  of  the  sea)  to  the  distance  of  three  hundred  yards 
to  the  westward,  covered  nearly  all  the  time  by  the  billows,  j 
which,  following  each  other  in  quick  succession,  scarcely 
gave  us  time  to  catch  a breath  before  we  were  again  literally 
swallowed  by  them,  till  at  length  we  were  thrown,  together  i 
with  our  boat,  upon  a sandy  beach.  After  taking  breath 
a little,  and  ridding  our  stomachs  of  the  salt  water  that  had  ; 
forced  its  way  into  them,  my  first  care  was  to  turn  the  water  i 
out  of  the  boat,  and  haul  her  up  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
surf.  We  found  the  rope  that  was  made  fast  to  her  still 
remaining ; this  we  carried  up  along  the  beach,  directly  to 
leeward  of  the  wreck,  where  we  fastened  it  to  sticks  about 
the  thickness  of  handspikes,  that  had  drifted  on  the  shore 
from  the  vessel,  and  which  we  drove  into  the  sand  by  the 


VOYAGE  IN  THE  COMMERCE.  29 

li  help  of  other  pieces  of  wood.  Before  leaving  the  vessel, 
r I had  directed  that  all  the  chests,  trunks,  and  every  thing 
that  would  float,  should  be  hove  overboard  : this  all  hands 
e;  were  busied  in  doing.  The  vessel  lay  about  one  hundred 
n fathoms  from  the  beach,  at  high  tide.  In  order  to  save 
e the  crew,  a hawser  was  made  fast  to  the  rope  we  had  on 
oj  shore,  one  end  of  which  we  hauled  to  us,  and  made  it 
fast  to  a number  of  sticks  we  had  driven  into  the  sand  for 
- the  purpose.  It  was  then  tautened  on  board  the  wreck, 

),  and  made  fast.  This  being  done,  the  long  boat  (in  order 
d | to  save  the  provisions  already  in  her)  was  lowered  down, 
e and  two  hands  steadied  her  by  ropes  fastened  to  the  rings 
e in  her  stem  and  stern  posts  over  the  hawser,  so  as  to  slide, 
e keeping  her  bow  to  the  surf.  In  this  manner  they,  reached 
i,  the  beach,  carried  on  the  top  of  a heavy  wave.  The  boat 
was  stove  by  the  violence  of  the  shock  against  the  beach  ; 
f but  by  great  exertions  we  saved  the  three  barrels  of  bread 

0 I in  her  before  they  were  much  damaged ; and  two  barrels 

of  salted  provisions  were  also  saved.  We  were  now,  four 
, of  us,  on  shore,  and  busied  in  picking  up  the  clothing 
and  other  things  which  drifted  from  the  vessel,  and  parry- 
ing them  up  out  of  the  surf.  It  was  by  this  time  day- 
e light,  and  high  water  ; the  vessel  careened  deep  off  shore, 
and  I made  signs  to  have  the  masts  cut  away,  in  the  hope 
e of  easing  her,  that  she  might  not  go  to  pieces.  They 
j were  accordingly  cut  away,  and  fell  on  her  starboard  side, 
making  a better  lee  for  a boat  alongside  the  .wreck,  as 
s they  projected  considerably  beyond  her  bows.  The  masts 
and  rigging  being  gone,  the  sea  breaking  very  high  over 
f the  wreck,  and  nothing  left  to  hold  on  by,  the  mates 'and 
six  men  still  on  board,  though  secured,  as  well  as  they 
could  be,  on  the  bowsprit  and  in  the  larboard  fore-chan- 
li  | nels,  were  yet  in  imminent  danger  of  being  washed  off  by 

1 every  surge.  The  long  boat  was  stove,  and  it  being  im- 
r possible  for  the  small  one  to  live,  my  great  object  was 
e now  to  save  the  lives  of  the  crew  by  means  of  the  hawser. 

1 I therefore  made  signs  to  them  to  come,  one  by  one,  on 
o | the  hawser,  which  had  been  stretched  taut  for  that  pur- 

t pose.  John  Hogan  ventured  first,  and  having  pulled  ofi' 
e his  jacket,  took  to  the  hawser,  and  made  for  the  shore. 
"When  he  had  got  clear  of  the  immediate  lee  of  the  wreck, 


30 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


every  surf  buried  him,  combing  many  feet  above  his 
head  ; but  he  still  held  fast  to  the  rope  with  a death-like 
grasp,  and  as  soon  as  the  surf  was  passed,  proceeded  on 
towards  the  shore,  until  another  surf,  more  powerful  than 
the  former,  unclenched  his  hands,  and  threw  him  within 
our  reach  ; when  we  laid  hold  of  him  and  dragged  him 
to  the  beach  ; we  then  rolled  him  on  the  sand,  until  he 
discharged  the  salt  water  from  his  stomach,  and  revived. 
I kept  in  the  water  up  to  my  chin,  steadying  myself  by  the 
hawser,  while  the  surf  passed  over  me,  to  catch  the  others 
as  they  approached,  and  thus,  with  the  assistance  of  those 
already  on  shore,  was  enabled  to  save  all  the  rest  from  a 
xvatery  grave. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Description  of  the  natives. — They  make  war  upon  the 
crew,  and  drive  them  off  to  the  wreck. 

All  hands  being  now  landed,  our  first  care  was  to  se- 
cure the  provisions  and  water  which  we  had  so  far  saved, 
knowing  it  was  a barren  thirsty  land  ; and  we  carried  the 
provisions  up  fifty  yards  from  the  water’s  edge,  where  we 
placed  them,  and  then  formed  a kind  of  a tent  by  means  of 
our  oars  and  two  steering  sails.  I had  fondly  hoped  we 
should  not  be  discovered  by  any  human  beings  on  this 
inhospitable  shore,  but  that  we  should  be  able  to  repair 
our  boats,  with  the  materials  we  might  get  from  the  wreck, 
and  by  taking  advantage  of  a smooth  time,  (if  we  should 
be  favoured  with  one,)  put  to  sea,  where  by  the  help  of  a 
compass  and  other  instruments  which  we  had  saved,  we 
might  possibly  find  some  friendly  vessel  to  save  our  lives, 
or  reach  some  of  the  European  settlements  down  the  coast, 
or  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands. 

Being  thus  employed,  we  saw  a human  figure  approach 
our  stuff)  such  as  clothing,  which  lay  scattered  along  the 
beach  for  a mile  westward  of  us.  It  was  a man  ! He  be- 
gan plundering  our  clothing.  I went  towards  him  with 
all  the  signs  of  peace  and  friendship  I could  make,  but  he 


WRECK  OF  TIIE  COMMERCE. 


51 


was  extremely  shy,  and  made  signs  to  me  to  keep  my 
distance,  while  he  all  the  time  seemed  intent  on  plunder. 
He  was  unarmed,  and  I continued  to  approach  him  until 
Avithin  ten  yards. 

He  appeared  to  be  about  five  feet  seven  or  eight  inches 
high,  and  of  a complexion  between  that  of  an  American 
Indian  and  negro.  He  had  about  him,  to  cover  his  na- 
kedness, a piece  of  coarse  woolen  cloth,  that  reached  from 
below  his  breast  nearly  to  his  knees  ; his  hair  was  long  and 
bushy,  resembling  a pitch  mop , sticking  out  every  Avay 
six  or  eight  inches  from  his  head ; his  face  resembled  that 
of  an  ourang-outang  more  than  a human  being  ; his  eyes 
were  red  and  fiery  ; his  mouth,  which  stretched  nearly 
from  ear  to  ear,  was  well  lined  with  sound  teeth  ; and  a 
long  curling  beard,  which  depended  from  his  upper  lip  and 
chin  down  upon  his  breast,  gave  him  altogether  a most 
horrid  appearance,  and  I could  not  but  imagine  that  those 
well  set  teeth  Avere  sharpened  for  the  purpose  of  devouring 
human  flesh  ! ! particularly  as  I conceived  I had  before 
seen  in  different  parts  of  the  Avorld,  the  human  face  and 
form  in  its  most  hideous  and  terrific  shape.  He  appeared 
to  be  very  old,  yet  fierce  and  vigorous ; he  Avas  soon 
joined  by  tAvo  old  women  of  similar  appearance,  Avhom  I 
took  to  be  his  Avives.  These  looked  a little  less  frightful, 
though  their  tAvo  eye-teeth  stuck  out  like  hogs’  tusks,  and 
their  tanned  skins  hung  in  loose  plaits  on  their  faces  and 
breasts  ; but  their  hair  Avas  long  and  braided.  A girl  of 
from  eighteen  to  twenty,  Avho  was  not  ugly,  and  five  or 
six  children  of  different  ages  and  sexes,  from  six  to  six- 
teen years,  Avere  also  in  company.  These  Avere  entirely 
naked.  They  brought  Avith  them  a good  English  ham- 
mer, Avith  a rope-laniard  through  a hole  in  its  handle.  It 
had,  no  doubt,  belonged  to  some  vessel  wrecked  on  that 
coast.  They  had  also  a kind  of  axe  Avith  them,  and  some 
long  knives  slung  on  their  right  sides,  in  a sheath  sus- 
pended by  their  necks.  They  noAv  felt  themselves  strong, 
and  commenced  a bold  and  indiscriminate  plundering  of 
every  thing  they  Avanted.  They  broke  open  trunks, 
chests,  and  boxes,  and  emptied  them  of  their  contents, 
carrying  the  clothing  on  their  backs  upon  the  sand  hills, 
where  they  spread  them  out  to  dry.  They  emptied  the 


32 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


beds  of  their  contents,  wanting  only  the  cloth,  and  were 
much  amused  with  the  flying  of  the  feathers  before  the  ! 
wind  from  my  bed.  It  appeared  as  though  they  had  never  i 
before  seen  such  things. 

I had  an  adventure  of  silk  laced  veils  and  silk  handker- 
chiefs,  the  former  of  which  the  man,  women,  and  chil- 
dren tied  round  their  heads  in  the  form  of  turbans  ; the 
latter  round  their  legs  and  arms,  though  only  for  a short 
time,  when  they  took  them  off  again,  and  stowed  them 
away  among  the  other  clothing  on  the  sand  hills.  They 
all  seemed  highly  delighted  with  their  good  fortune,  and 
even  the  old  man’s  features  began  to  relax  a little,  as  he 
met  with  no  resistance.  W e had  no  fire  or  side  arms,  but 
we  could  easily  have  driven  these  creatures  off  with  hand- 
spikes, had  I not  considered  that  we  had  no  possible 
means  of  escaping  either  by  land  or  water,  and  had  no  s 
reason  to  doubt  but  they  would  call  others  to  their  assist- 
ance, and  in  revenge  destroy  us.  I used  all  the  arguments 
in  my  power  to  induce  my  men  to  endeavour  to  conciliate 
the  friendship  of  these  natives,  but  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty  I could  restrain  some  of  them  from  rushing  on  the 
savages  and  putting  them  to  death,  if  they  could  have  come 
up  with  them  ; but  I found  they  could  run  like  the  wind, 
whilst  we  could  with  difficulty  move  in  the  deep  sand.  Such 
an  act  I conceived  would  cost  us  our  lives,  as  soon  as  we 
should  be  overpowered  by  numbers,  and  I therefore  per- 
mitted them  to  take  what  pleased  them  best,  without 
making  any  resistance  ; except  our  bread  and  provisions, 
which,  as  we  could  not  subsist  without  them,  I was  de- 
termined to  defend  to  the  last  extremity.  On  our  first 
reaching  the  shore  I allowed  my  mates  and  people  to  share 
among  themselves  one  thousand  Spanish  dollars,  for  I had 
hauled  my  trunk  on  shore  by  a rope,  with  my  money  in  it. 
which  I was  induced  to  do  in  the  hope  of  its  being  useful 
to  them  in  procuring  a release  from  this  country  in  case 
we  should  be  separated,  and  in  aiding  them  to  reach  their 
homes.  We  had  rolled  up  the  casks  of  water  and  wine 
which  had  been  thrown  overboard  and  drifted  ashore.  I 
was  now  determined  to  mend  the  long  boat,  as  soon  and 
as  well  as  possible,  in  order  to  have  a retreat  in  my  power, 
■'or  at  least  the  hope  of  one,)  in  case  of  the  last  necessity. 


I 

WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE,  22 

i The  wind  lulled  a little  in  the  afternoon,  at  low  water., 
I when  William  Porter  succeeded  in  reaching  the  wreck,  and 
procured  a few  nails  and  a marline  spike  ; with  these  he  got 
safe  back  to  the  shore.  I found  the  timbers  of  the  boat  in 
so  crazy  a state,  and  the  nails  which  held  them  together,  so 
eaten  off  by  the  rust,  that  she  would  not  hold  together,  nor 
support  her  weight  in  turning  her  up  in  order  to  get  at  her 
bottom.  I tacked  her  timbers  together,  however,  as  well 
as  I could,  which  was  very  imperfectly,  as  I had  bad  tools 
to  work  with,  and  my  crew,  now  unrestrained  by  my  au- 
thority, having  broached  a cask  of  wine,  and  taken  copi- 
ous draughts  of  it,  in  order  to  dispel  their  sorrows,  were 
most  of  them  in  such  a state,  that  instead  of  assisting  me, 
they  tended  to  increase  my  embarrassment.  We,  however, 
at  last,  got  the  boat  turned  up,  and  found  that  one  whole 
plank  was  out  on  each  side,  and  very  much  split.  I 
tacked  the  pieces  in,  assisted  by  Mr.  Savage,  Horace,  and 
one  or  two  more.  We  chinced  a little  oakum  into  the 
■ seams  and  splits  with  our  knives,  as  well  as  we  could, 
and  worked  upon  her  until  it  was  quite  dark.  I had  kept 
sentinels  walking  with  handspikes,  to  guard  the  tent  and 
provisions  during  this  time,  but  the  Arabs  had  managed 
to  rob  us  of  one  of  our  sails  from  the  tent,  and  to  carry 
it  off,  and  not  content  with  this,  they  tried  to  get  the  other 
in  the  same  way.  This  I would  not  permit  them  to  do. 
They  then  showed  their  hatchets  and  their  arms,  but  find- 
ing it  of  no  effect,  they  retired  for  the  night,  after  promising, 
as  near  as  I could  understand  them,  that  they  would  not 
molest  us  further  till  morning,  when  they  would  bring 
camels  down  with  them.  We  had  previously  seen  a great 
many  camel  tracks  in  the  sand,  and  I of  course  believed 
there  were  some  near.  One  of  the  children  had  furnished 
us  with  fire,  which  enabled  us  to  roast  a fowl  that  had 
been  drowned,  and  driven  on  shore  from  the  wreck,  on 

■ which,  with  some  salt  pork,  and  a little  bread  and  butter, 
we  made  a hearty  meal,  little  thinking  that  this  was  to  be 

■ the  last  of  our  provisions  we  should  be  permitted  to  enjoy. 
A watch  was  set  of  two  men,  who  were  to  walk  guard  at. 
a distance  from  the  tent,  to  give  an  alarm  in  case  of  the 
approach  of  the  natives,  and  keep  burning  a guard  fire. 
This  we  were  enabled  to  do  by  cutting  up  some  spars  we 


34 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE* 


found  on  the  beach,  and  which  must  have  belonged  te 
some  vessel  wrecked  there  before  us. 

Night  had  now  spread  her  sable  mantle  over  the  face  of 
nature,  the  savages  had  retired,  and  all  was  still,  except 
the  restless  and  unwearied  waves,  which  dashed  against 
the  deserted  wreck,  and  tumbled  among  the  broken  rocks' 
a little  to  the  eastward  of  us,  where  the  high  perpendicular 
cliffs,  jutting  out  into  the  sea,  opposed  a barrier  to  their 
violence,  and  threatened,  at  the  same  time,  inevitable  and 
certain  destruction  to  every  ill  fated  vessel  and  her  crew 
that  should,  unfortunately,  approach  too  near  their  im- 
moveable foundations  : these  we  had  escaped  only  by  a few 
rods.  From  the  time  the  vessel  struck  to  this  moment,  I 
had  been  so  entirely  engaged  by  the  laborious  exertions 
which  our  critical  situation  demanded,  that  I had  no  time 
for  reflection  ; but  it  now  rushed  like  a torrent  over  my 
mind,  and  banished  from  my  eyes  that  sleep  which  my 
fatigued  frame  so  much  required.  I knew  I was  on  a 
barren  and  inhospitable  coast ; a tempestuous  ocean  lay 
before  me,  whose  -bosom  was  continually  tossed  and  agi- 
tated by  wild  and  furious  winds,  blowing  directly  on 
shore ; no  vessel  or  boat  sufficient  for  our  escape,  as  I 
thought  it  impossible  for  our  shattered  long  boat  to  live 
at  sea,  even  if  we  should  succeed  in  urging  her  through 
the  tremendous  surges  that  broke  upon  the  shore  with 
such  violence  as  to  make  the  whole  coast  tremble  ; be- 
hind us  were  savage  beings,  bearing  the  human  form 
indeed,  but  in  its  most  terrific  appearance,  whose  object 
I knew,  from  what  had  already  passed,  would  be  to  rob 
us  of  our  last  resource,  our  provisions  ; and  I did  not 
doubt,  but  they  would  be  sufficiently  strong  in  the  morn- 
ing, not  only  to  accomplish  what  they  meditated,  but  to 
take  our  lives  also,-  or  to  seize  upon  our  persons,  and 
doom  us  to  slavery,  till  death  should  rid  us  of  our  mis- 
eries. 

This  was  the  first  time  I had  ever  suffered  shipwreck. 
I had  left  a wife  and  five  young  children  behind  me,  on 
whom  I doated,  and  wrho  depended  on  me  entirely  for  their 
subsistence.  My  children  would  have  no  father’s,  and  per- 
haps no  mother’s  care,  to  direct  them  in  the  paths  of  virtue, 
to  instruct  their  ripening  years,  or  to  watch  over  them,  and 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE. 


35 


^administer  the  balm  of  comfort  in  time  of  sickness  ; no 
.generous  friend  to  relieve  their  distresses,  and  save  them 
J from  indigence,  degradation,  and  ruin.  These  reflections 
harrowed  up  my  soul,  nor  could  1 cease  to  shudder  at 
51  these  imaginary  evils,  added  to  my  real  ones,  until  I was 
b forced  mentally  to  exclaim,  “ Thy  ways,  great  Father  of 
!rthe  universe,  are  wise  and  just,  and  what  am  I ! an  atom 
11  of  dust,  that  dares  to  murmur  at  thy  dispensations.” 

1 ' I next  considered,  that  eleven  of  my  fellow  sufferers, 

' j who  had  entrusted  themselves  to  my  care,  were  still  alive 

and  with  me,  and  all  but  two  of  them  (who  were  on  the 
j watch)  lying  on  the  ground,  and  wrapped  in  the  most 
profound*  and  apparently  pleasing  sleep  ; and  as  I surveyed 
1S  them  with  tears  of  compassion,  I felt  it  was  a sacred  duty 
e assigned  me  by  Providence,  to  protect  and  preserve  their 
• lives  to  my  very  utmost.  The  night  passed  slowly  and 
■ tediously  away  ; when  daylight  at  length  began  to  dawn  in 

2 the  eastern  horizon,  and  chased  darkness  before  it,  not  to 
) I usher  to  our  view  the  cheering  prospect  of  approaching 
’ relief,  but  to  unfold  new  scenes  of  suffering,  wretchedness, 
“ and  distress.  So  soon  as  it  was  fairly  light,  the  old  man. 

came  down  accompanied  by  his  wives  and  two  young  men 
of  the  same  family — he  was  armed  with  a spear  of  iron, 
having  a handle  made  with  two  pieces  of  wood  spliced 
together,  and  tied  with  cords : the  handle  was  about 
twelve  feet  long.  This  he  held  balanced  in  his  right 
hand,  above  his  head,  making  motions  as  if  to  throw  it 
at  us ; he  ordered  us  off  to  the  wreck,  pointing,  at  the 
same  time  to  a large  drove  of  camels  that  were  descend- 
ing the  heights  to  the  eastward  of  us,  his  women  running 
off  at  the  same  time  whooping  and  yelliiig  horribly, 
throwing  up  sand  in  the  air,  and  beckoning  to  those  who 
had  charge  of  the  camels  to  approach.  I ran  towards  the 
1 beach,  and  seized  a small  spar  that  lay  there,  to  parry 
off  the  old  man’s  lance,  as  a handspike  was  not  long 
enough.  He  in  the  mean  time  came  to  the  tent  like  a 
fury,  where  the  people  still  were,  and  by  slightly  pricking- 
one  or  two  of  them,  and  pointing  at  the  same  time  to- 
wards the  camels,  he  succeeded  in  frightening  them, 
which  was  his  object,  as  he  did  not  wish  to  call  help,  lest 
he  should  be  obliged  to  divide  the  spoil.  The  crew  all 


Captain  riley’s  narrative. 


made  the  best  of  their  way  to  the  small  boat,  while  ] 
parried  ofF  his  spear  with  my  spar,  and  kept  him  at  a 
distance.  He  would  doubtless  have  hurled  it  at  me,  but 
for  the  fear  of  losing  it. 

The  small  boat  was  dragged  to  the  water,  alongside 
our  hawser,  but  the  people  huddling  into  her  in  a con- 
fused manner,  she  was  filled  by  the  first  sea,  and  bilged. 

I now  thought  we  had  no  resource,  except  trying  to  get 
eastward  or  westward.  Abandoning,  therefore,  our  boats,  * 
provisions,  See.  we  tried  to  retreat  eastward,  but  were 
opposed  by  this  formidable  spear,  and  could  not  make 
much  progress  ; for  the  old  man  was  very  active.  He 
would  fly  from  us  like  the  wind,  and  return  with  the  same 
speed.  The  camels  were  approaching  very  fast,  and  he 
made  signs  to  inform  us,  that  the  people  who  were  with  | 
them  had  fire  arms,  and  would  put  us  instantly  to  death  ? 
at  the  same  time  opposing  us  every  way  with  his  young 
men,  with  all  their  weapons,  insisting  on  our  going  to- 
wards the  wreck,  and  refusing  to  receive  our  submission, 
while  the  women  and  children  still  kept  up  their  yelling. 
We  then  laid  hold  of  the  long  boat,  turned  her  over,  and 
got  her  into  the  water ; and  as  I would  suffer  only  one  at 
a time  to  get  on  board,  and  that  too  over  her  stern,  we 
succeeded  at  length,  and  all  got  off  safe  alongside  the 
wreck,  which  made  a tolerable  lee  for  the  boat,  though 
she  was  by  this  time  half  filled  with  water. 

All  hands  got  on  board  the  wreck  except  myself  and 
another,  we  kept  bailing  the  boat  and  were  able  to  keep 
her  from  entirely  filling,  having  one  bucket  and  a keg  to 
work  with.  The  moment  we  were  out  of  the  way,  all 
the  family*  ran  together  where  our  tent  was  ; here  they 
were  joined  by  the  camels  and  two  young  men,  which 
we  had  not  before  seen,  apparently  about  the  ages  of 
twenty  and  twenty-six.  They  were  armed  with  scimi- 
tars, and  came  running  on  foot  from  the  eastward.  The 
old  man  and  women  ran  to  meet  them,  hallooing  to  us, 
brandishing  their  naked  weapons  and  bidding  us  defiance. 
They  loaded  the  barrels  of  bread  on  their  camels,  which 
kneeled  down  to  receive  them  ; the  beef,  and  all  the  other 
provisions,  with  the  sail  that  the  tent  was  made  of,  &q.  &c„ 
and  sent  them  off  with  the  children,  who  drove  them 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE. 


37 


down.  The  old  man  nest  came  to  the  beach ; with 
< his  axe  stove  in  all  the  heads  of  our  water  casks  and 
Hi!  casks  of  wines,  emptying  their  contents  into  the  sand. 

They  then  gathered  up  all  the  trunks,  chests,  sea  instru- 
df  ments,  books  and  charts,  and  consumed  them  by  fire  in 
n.  one  pile.  Our  provisions  and  water  being  gone,  we  saw 
d.  no  other  alternative  but  to  try  to  get  to  sea  in  our  leaky 
etj  boat,  or  stay  and  be  washed  off  the  wreck  the  next  night, 
s,  or  to  perish  by  the  hands  of  these  barbarians,  who  we 
re  expected  would  appear  in  great  force,  and  bring  fire 
:e  arms  with  them,  and  they  would  besides  soon  be  enabled 
le  to  walk  to  the  wreck,  on  a sand  bar  that  was  fast  forming 
ie  inside  of  the  vessel,  and  now  nearly  dry  at  low  water.  The 
tide  seemed  to  ebb  and  flow  about  twelve  feet.  We  had 

i now  made  all  the  preparations  in  our  power  for  our  de- 
; : parture,  which  amounted  to  nothing  more  than  getting 
g from  the  wreck  a few  bottles  of  wine  and  a few  pieces  of 
).  salt  pork.  No  water  could  be  procured,  and  the  bread 
i,  was  completely  spoiled  by  being  soaked  in  salt  water. 

Our  oars  were  all  lost  except  two  that  were  on  shore  in  the 
; power  of  the  natives.  We  had  split  a couple  of  plank 
it  for  oars,  and  attempted  to  shove  off,  but  a surf  striking 
e the  boat,  came  over  her  bow,  and  nearly  filling  her  with 
e water,  drifted  her  again  alongside  the  wreck.  We  now 

ii  made  shift  to  get  on  board  the  wreck  again,  and  bail  out 
the  boat ; which  when  done,  two  hands  were  able  to 

! keep  her  free,  while  two  others  held  her  steady  by  ropes, 
i so  as  to  prevent  her  from  dashing  to  pieces  against  the 
> wreck. 

1 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  natives  seize  the  author  by  perfidy , and  then  get  pos- 
session of  the  money — The  author's  critical  situation  on 
shore — He  escapes  to  the  wreck — Antonio  Michel  is 
massacred. 

The  sight  of  our  deplorable  situation  seemed  to  excite 
pity  in  the  breasts  of  the  savages  who  had  driven  us  from 


ii8 


CAPTAIN  RILEY : rS  NARRATIVE. 


the  shore.  They  came  down  to  the  water’s  edge,  bowed 
themselves  to  the  ground,  beckoning  us,  and  particularly 
me,  whom  they  knew  to  be  the  captain,  to  come  on  shore ; 
making  at  the  same  time  all  the  signs  of  peace  and  friend- 
ship they  could.  They  carried  all  their  arms  up  over  the 
sand  hills,  and  returned  without  them.  Finding  I would 
not  come  on  shore,  one  of  them  ran  and  fetched  a small 
goat  or  dog  skin,  which  by  signs,  they  made  me  under-  1 
stand  was  filled  with  water,  and  all  retiring  to  a considera- 
ble distance  from  the  beach,  except  tire  old  man  who  had 
it : he  came  into  the  water  with  it  up  to  his  armpits, 
beckoning  me  to  come  and  fetch  it  and  drink.  He  was 
nearly  naked,  and  had  no  weapons  about  him.  Being 
very  thirsty,  and  finding  we  could  not  get  at  any  water, 
and  no  hope  remaining  of  our  being  able  to  get  out 
through  the  surf  to  sea,  I let  myself  down  by  the  hawser, 
and  w ent  by  means  of  it  to  the  beach,  where  the  old  man. 
met  me  and  gave  me  the  skin  of  water,  which  I carried 
off  to  the  wreck,  and  the  people  hauled  it  up  on  board. 
This  done,  he  made  me  understand  that  he  wished  to 
go  on  board,  and  me  to  remain  on  the  beach  until  his 
return. 

Seeing  no  possible  chance  of  escaping  or  of  preserving 
our  lives  in  any  other  way  but  by  their  assistance,  and  i 
that  that  was  only  to  be  obtained  by  conciliating  them — • 
telling  my  men  my  mind,  I went  again  to  the  shore.  The  '■ 
young  men,  women,  and  children  wrere  now7  seated  un- 
armed on  the  beach,  near  the  water — the  grown  people 
nearly,  and  the  children  entirely  naked.  They  made  all 
the  signs  of  peace  they  knew  of,  looking  upwards,  as  if 
invoking  heaven  to  w-itness  their  sincerity.  The  old 
man  advancing,  took  me  by  the  hand,  and  looking  up 
to  heaven,  said,  “ Allah  K Beery  I knew  that  Allah 
was  the  Arabic  name  for  the  Supreme  Being,  and  sup- 
posed K.  Beer  meant  “ our  friend  or  father.”  I let  him 
pass  to  the  wreck,  and  went  and  seated  myself  on  the 
beach  with  the  others,  who  seemed  very  friendly,  inter- 
lacing their  fingers  with  mine  ; putting  my7  hat  on  one 
another’s  head  and  returning  it  to  me  again ; stroking 
down  my  trowsers,  feeling  my  head  and  hands,  examin- 
ing my  shoes,  and  feeling  into  my  pockets,  &c. 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE. 


3$ 


When  the  people  had  hauled  the  old  man  on  board,  i 
[endeavoured  to  make  them  understand  that  they  must 
keep  him  until  I was  released,  but  they  did  not  compre- 
hend my  meaning,  owing  to  the  noise  of  the  surf ; and 
after  he  had  satisfied  his  curiosity  by  looking  attentively 
at  every  thing  he  could  see,  which  was  nothing  more  than 
the  wreck  of  the  contents  of  the  hold  floating  in  her,  in- 
quiring for  baftas,  for  fire-arms,  and  for  money,  as  I 
afterwards  learnt,  and  finding  none,  he  came  on  shore. 
When  he  was  near  the  beach,  and  I about  to  rise  to  meet 
him,  I was  seized  by  both  arms  by  the  two  stoutest 
of  the  young  men,  who  had  placed  themselves  on  each 
side  of  me  for  the  purpose  of  safe-keeping.  They  grasp- 
ed my  arms  like  lions,  and  at  that  instant  the  women  and 
children  presented  their  daggers,  knives  and  spears  to- 
my  head  and  breast.  To  strive  against  them  was  instant 
death  ; I was  therefore  obliged  to  remain  quiet,  and  de- 
termined to  show  no  concern  for  my  life  or  any  signs  of 
fear.  The  countenance  of  every  one  around  me  now 
assumed  the  most  horrid  and  malignant  expressions  ; 
they  gnashed  their  teeth  at  me,  and  struck  their  daggers 
within  an  inch  of  every  part  of  my  head  and  body.  The 
young  men  still  held  me  fast,  while  the  old  one,  seizing 
a sharp  scimitar,  laid  hold  of  my  hair  at  the  same  instant, 
as  if  to  cut  my  throat,  or  my  head  off.  I concluded  my 
last  moments  had  come,  and  that  my  body  was  doomed 
to  be  devoured  by  these  beings,  whom  I now  considered 
to  be  none  other  than  cannibals,  that  wrouid  soon  glut 
their  hungry  stomachs  with  my  flesh.  I could  only  say. 

Thy  wifi  be  done,”  mentally,  and  felt  resigned  to  my 
fate,  for  I thought  it  could  not  be  prevented.  But  this 
conduct  on  their  part,  it  soon  appeared,  was  only  for  the 
purpose  of  frightening  me,  and  as  I had  not  changed 
countenance,  the  old  man,  after  drawing  his  scimitar 
lightly  across  the  collar  of  my  shirt,  which  he  cut  a little 
released  my  head,  bidding  me  by  signs  to  order  all  the 
money  we  had  on  board  to  be  brought  directly  on  shore. 

My  mates  and  people  then  on  the  wreck,  had  wit- 
nessed this  scene,  and  had  agreed,  as  they  afterwards 
informed  me,  that  if  I was  massacred,  which  they  did 
not  doubt  from  appearances  would  soon  be  the  case,  to 


40. 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


rush  on  shore  in  the  boat,  armed  in  the  best  manner  they 
were  able,  and  revenge  my  death  by  selling  their  lives 
as  dearly  as  possible. 

When  the  old  man  had  quit  his  hold,  and  I hailed  my 
people,  their  hopes  began  to  revive,  and  one  of  them 
came  on  the  hawser  to  know  what  they  should  do.  I told 
him  all  the  money  which  they  had  on  board  must  be  in- 
stantly brought  on  shore  He  was  in  the  water  at  some 
distance  from  me,  and  could  not  hear,  on  account  of 
the  noise  occasioned  by  the  surf,  what  I added,  which 
was  for  them  not  to  part  with  the  money  until  I should 
be  fairly  released.  He  went  on  board,  and  all  hands 
hoping  to  procure  my  release,  put  their  money  which 
they  still  had  about  them,  to  the  amount  of  about  one 
thousand  dollars  into  a bucket,  and  slinging  it  on  the 
hawser,  Porter  shoved  it  along  before  him  near  the  beach, 
and  was  about  to  bring  it  up  to  the  place  where  I sat. 
With  considerable  difficulty,  however  I prevented  him, 
as  the  surf  made  such  a roaring,  that  he  could  not  hear 
me,  though  he  was  only  a few  yards  distant  ; but  he  at 
last  understood  my  signs,  and  staid  in  the  water  until  one 
of  the  young  men  went  and  received  it  from  him.  The 
old  man  had  taken  his  seat  alongside  of  me,  and  held  his 
scimitar  pointed  at  my  breast. 

The  bucket  ol  dollars  was  brought  and  poured  into 
one  end  of  the  old  man’s  blanket,  when  he  bid  me  rise 
and  go  along  with  them,  he  and  the  young  men  urging 
me  along  by  both  arms,  with  their  daggers  drawn  before, 
and  the  women  and  children  behind  with  the  spear,  and 
their  knives  near  my  back.  In  this  manner  they  made  me 
go  with  them  over  the  sand  drifts  to  the  distance  of  three 
or  four  hundred  yards,  where  they  seated  themselves  and 
me  on  the  ground.  The  old  man  then  proceeded  to 
count  and  divide  the  money.  He  made  three  heaps  of  it, 
counting  into  each  heap  by  tens,  and  so  dividing  it  ex- 
actly, gave  to  the  two  young  men  one-third  or  heap — to 
his  two  wives  one-third,  and  kept  the  other  to  himself. 
Each  secured  his  and  their  own  part,  by  wrapping  and 
tting  it  up  in  some  of  our  clothing.  During  this  pro- 
cess, they  had  let  go  of  my  arms,  though  they  were  all 
around  me.  I thought  my  fate  was  now  decided,  if  I 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE. 


41 


* 

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could  not  by  some  means  effect  my  escape.  I knew  they 
could  outrun  me,  if  I should  leap  from  them,  and  would 
undoubtedly  plunge  their  weapons  to  my  heart  if  I at- 
tempted,  and  failed  in  the  attempt.  However,  I resolved 
to  risk  it,  and  made  a slight  movement  with  that  view  at  a 
moment  when  I thought  all  eyes  were  turned  from  me ; 
but  one  of  the  young  men  perceiving  my  manoeuvre, 
made  a lounge  at  me  with  his  scimitar.  I eluded  the 
force  of  his  blow,  by  falling  backwards  on  the  ground  ; it 
however  pierced  my  waistcoat.  He  was  about  to  repeat 
it,  when  the  old  man  bade  him  desist. 

The  money  being  now  distributed  and  tied  up,  they 
made  me  rise  with  them,  and  were  all  going  together  from 
the  beach,  holding  me  by  the  arms,  with  naked  daggers  all 
around  me.  There  appeared  now  no  possible  means  of 
escape,  when  the  thought  suddenly  occurred  to  me,  to 
tempt  their  avarice.  I then,  by  signs,  made  them  under- 
stand that  there  was  more  money  in  the  possession  of  the 
crew.  This  seemed  to  please  them,  and  they  instantly 
turned  themselves  and  me  about  for  the  beach,  sending  the. 
money  off  by  one  of  the  young  men  and  a boy.  When 
they  approached  to  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  beach, 
they  made  me  seat  myself  on  the  sand  between  two  of 
them,  who  held  me  by  the  arms,  bidding  me  order  the 
money  on  shore.  I knew  there  was  none  on  board  the 
wreck,  or  in  the  boat,  but  I imagined  if  I could  get 
Antonio  Michel  on  shore,  I should  be  able  to  make  my 
escape.  I hailed  accordingly,  and  made  signs  to  my 
people  to  have  one  of  them  come  near  the  shore  ; but  as 
they  saw,  by  every  movement  of  the  natives,  that  my  sit- 
uation was  dreadfully  critical,  none  of  them  were  inclined 
to  venture,  and  I waited  more  than  an  hour,  was  often 
threatened  with  death,  and  made  to  halloo  with  all  my 
might,  until  I became  so  hoarse  as  scarcely  to  make  my- 
self heard  by  those  around  me.  The  pity  of  Mr.  Savage 
at  last  overcame  his  fears.  He  ventured  on  the  hawser, 
and  reaching  the  beach  in  safety  was  about  to  come  up  to 
me,  where  he  would  have  been  certainly  seized  on  as  I 
was,  when  I endeavoured  to  make  him  understand,  by 
signs,  that  he  must  stay  in  the  water,  and  keep  clear  of  the 
natives,  if  he  valued  his  life  ; but  not  being  able  to  hear 

6 


42  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 

■me,  my  guards,  who  supposed  I was  giving  him  orders  to 
fetch  the  money,  obliged  me  to  get  up  and  approach  him 
a little,  until  I made  him  understand  what  1 Wanted.:  he 
then  returned  on  board  the  wreck,  and  I was  taken  back 
to  my  former  station. 

Antonio  came  to  the  shore,  as  soon  as  he  knew  it  was 
my  wish,  and  made  directly  towards  me.  The  natives, 
expecting  he  would  bring  more  money,  flocked  about 
him  to  receive  it,  but  finding  he  had  none,  struck  him 
with  their  fists,  and  the  handles  of  their  daggers,  and 
stripped  oft'  all  his  clothing  : the  children  at  the  same  time, 
pricking  him  with  their  sharp  knives,  and  all  seemed  de- 
termined to  torment  him  with  a slow  and  cruel  death.  He 
begged  for  his  life  upon  his  knees,  but  they  paid  no  re- 
gard to  his  entreaties.  In  hopes  of  saving  him  from  the 
fury  of  these  wretches,  I told  him  to  let  them  know  by 
signs  that  there  were  dollars  and  other  things  buried  in  the 
sand,  near  where  our  tent  had  stood,  and  to  endeavour  to 
find  them  by  digging.  A new  spy-glass,  a hand  saw,  and 
several  other  things  had  been  buried  there,  and  a bag  con- 
taining about  four  hundred  dollars  at  a short  distance  from 
them.  He  soon  made  them  understand  that  something 
was  buried,  and  they  hurried  him  to  the  spot  he  had  pointed 
out,  and  he  began  to  dig.  I had  imagined  that  if  this 
man  would  come  on  shore,  I should  be  enabled  to  make 
my  escape  ; yet  I knew  not  how,  nor  had  I formed  any 
plan  for  effecting  it. 

I was  seated  on  the  sand,  facing  the  sea,  between  the 
old  man  on  my  left,  with  his  spear  uplifted  in  his  left 
hand,  pointing  to  my  breast,  and  the  stoutest  young  man 
on  my  right,  with  a naked  scimitar  in  his  right  hand, 
pointing  to  my  head-— both  weapons  were  within  six 
inches  of  me,  and  my  guards  within  a foot  on  each  side. 
I considered  at  this  time,  that  so  soon  as  any  thing  should 
be  found  by  those  who  were  digging,  they  would  naturally 
speak  and  inform  those  who  guarded  me  of  it  ; (these 
had  let  go  of  my  arms  sometime  before)  and  as  I was 
pretty  certain  that  both  of  them  would  look  round  as  soon 
as  the  discovery  of  any  treasure  should  be  announced,  I 
carefully  drew  up  my  legs  under  me,  but  without  excit 
ing' suspicion,  in  order  to  be  ready  for.  a start.  The  place 


W’reok,-  of  / he  Jlri> / Comf/mrctz  071  the  Coast  of  jLfvira  _ The  ^Luther's  escape  from  this  Arots . 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE. 


4S 

where  they  were  digging,  was  partly  behind  us  on  out 
right,  and  upon  their  making  a noise,  both  my  guards 
turned  their  heads  and  eyes  from  me  towards  them,  when 
I instantly  sprang  out  from  beneath  their  weapons,  and 
flew  to  the  beach.  I was  running  for  my  life,  and  soon 
reached  the  water’s  edge.  Knowing  I was  pursued,  and 
> nearly  overtaken,  I plunged  into  the  sea,  with  all  my 
; force,  head  foremost,  and  swam  under  water  as  long  as  I 
could  hold  my  breath  ; then  rising  to  the  surface,  I looked 
round  on  my  pursuers.  The  old  man  was  within  ten  feet 
of  me,  up  to  Ids  chin  in  water,  and  was  in  the  act  of  dart 
ing  his  spear  through  my  body,  when  a surf  rolling  over 
me,  saved  my  life,  and  dashed  him  and  his  comrades  on 
the  beach.  I was  some  distance  westward  of  the  wreck  ; 
but  swimming  as  fast  as  possible  towards  her,  whilst  surf 
after  surf  broke  in  towering  heights  over  me,  I was  ena- 
bled, by  almost  superhuman  exertion,  to  reach  the  lee  of 
the  wreck,  when  I was  taken  into  the  boat  over  the  stem 
by  the  mates  and  people. 

I was  so  far  exhausted  that  I could  not  immediately 
witness  what  passed  on  shore,  but  was  informed  by  those 
who  did,  that  my  pursuers  stood  motionless  on  the  beach, 
at  the  edge  of  the  water,  until  I was  safe  in  the  boat 
that  they  then  ran  towards  poor  Antonio,  and  plunging  a 
spear  into  his  body  near  his  left  breast  downwards,  laid 
him  dead  at  their  feet.  They  then  picked  up  what  things 
remained,  and  made  off  all  together.  I saw  them  dragging 
Antonio’s  lifeless  trunk  across  the  sand  hills,  and  felt  an 
inexpressible  pang,  that  bereft  me  for  a moment  of  all 
sensation,  occasioned  by  a suggestion  that  to  me  alone  his 
massacre  was  imputable ; but  on  my  recovery,  when  I 
reflected  there  were  no  other  means  whereby  my  own  life 
could  have  been  preserved,  and,  under  Providence,  the 
lives  of  ten  men,  who  had  been  committed  to  my  charge, 
I concluded  I had  not  done  wrong,  nor  have  I since  had 
occasion  to  reproach  myself  for  being  the  innocent  cause 
of  his  destruction ; nor  did  any  of  my  surviving  ship- 
mates, though  perfectly  at  liberty  so  to  do,  ever  accuse 
me  on  this  point ; from  which  I think  I have  an  undoubted 
right  to  infer,  that  their  feelings  perfectly  coincided  with 
mine  on  this  melancholy  occasion- 


44 


CAPTAIN  RILEV’S  NARRATIVE 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Providential  preservation  through  the  surf  to  the  open 
ocean — Sufferings  in  their  shattered  boat  nine  days  at 
sea — Landing  again  on  the  frightful  coast  of  the  Afri- 
can Desert. 

Hostilities  had  now  commenced,  and  we  could  not 
doubt  but  these  merciless  ruffians  would  soon  return  in 
force,  and,  when  able  to  overpower  us,  would  massacre 
us  all  as  they  had  already  done  Antonio.  The  wind  blow- 
ing strong,  and  the  surf  breaking  outside  and  on  the 
wreck  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  the  hope  of  getting  to 
sea  in  our  crazy  long  boat  was  indeed  but  faint.  She  had 
been  thumping  alongside  the  wreck,  and  on  a sand  bank 
all  day,  and  writhed  like  an  old  basket,  taking  in  as  much 
water  as  two  men  constantly  employed  with  buckets  could 
throw  out.  The  deck  and  outside  of  the  wreck  were  fast 
going  to  pieces,  and  the  other  parts  could  not  hold  to- 
gether long.  The  tide,  (by  being  low,)  together  with  the 
sand  bar  that  had  been  formed  by  the  washing  of  the  sea 
from  the  bow  of  the  wreck  to  the  beach,  had  very  much 
lessened  the  danger  of  communicating  with  the  shore  during 
this  day  ; but  it  was  now  returning  to  sweep  every  thing 
from  the  wreck,  aided  by  the  wind,  which  blew  a gale  on 
shore  every  night.  To  remain  on  the  wreck,  or  go  on 
shore,  was  almost  certain  death  ; the  boat  could  no  longer 
be  kept  afloat  alongside,  and  being  without  provisions  or 
water,  if  we  should  put  to  sea,  we  must  soon  perish.  We 
liad  neither  oars  nor  a rudder  to  the  boat ; no  compass  nor 
a quadrant  to  direct  our  course  ; but  as  it  was  our  only 
chance,  I resolved  to  try  and  get  to  sea  ; expecting,  never- 
theless, we  should  be  swallowed  up  by  the  first  surf,  and 
launched  into  eternity  all  together. 

I,  in  the  first  place,  sent  Porter  on  shore  to  get  the  two 
broken  oars  that  were  still  lying  there,  while  1 made  my 
way  through  the  water  into  the  hold  of  the  wreck,  to  try 
once  more  if  any  fresh  water  could  be  found.  I dove  in 
at  the  hatchway,  which  was  covered  with  water,  and  found, 
after  coming  up  under  the  deck  on  the  larboard  side,  as  $ 


WRECK  OF  THE  COMMERCE, 


45 


expected,  just  room  enough  to  breathe,  and  to  work 
among  the  floating  casks,  planks,  and  wreck  of  the  hold. 
After  much  labour  I found  a water  cask,  partly  full,  and 

I turning  it  over,,  discovered  that  its  bung  was  tight.  This 
gave  me  new  courage,  and  after  lipheading  it,  I came  up 
and  communicated  the  circumstance  to  my  shipmates,  and 
we  then  made  search  for  some  smaller  vessel  to  fill  from 
the  cask.  After  much  trouble,  a small  keg  was  found  in 
the  after  hold  ; it  might  probably  hold  four  gallons — the 
head  of  the  water  cask  was  stove  in,  and  with  the  help  of 
Mr.  Savage  and  Clark,  I got  the  keg  full  of  water,  and  a 
good  drink  for  all  hands  besides,  which  was  very  much 
needed.  The  others  were  in  the  mean  time  employed  in 
rigging  out  spars  which  we  had  lashed  together  over  the 
stern  of  the  wreck  with  a rope  made  fast  to  their  outer 
ends,  in  order  to  give  the  boat  head  way,  and  clear  her 
from  the  wreck,  when  we  should  finally  shove  off.  Porter 
had  returned  with  the  oars,  and  also  brought  the  bag  of 
money  that  had  been  buried,  containing  about  four  hun- 
dred dollars  : this  he  did  of  his  own  accord. 

We  had  got  the  small  boat’s  sails,  consisting  of  a jib 
and  mainsail,  into  the  boat,  with  a spar  that  would  do  for 
a mast,  and  the  brig’s  fore-topmast  staysail  ; the  keg  of 
water,  a few  pieces  of  salt  pork,  a live  pig,  weighing 
about  twenty  pounds,  which  had  escaped  to  the  shore 
when  the  vessel  struck,  and  which  had  swam  back  to  us 
again  when  we  were  driven  from  the  shore  ; about  four 
pounds  of  figs,  that  had  been  soaking  in  salt  tvater  ever 
since  the  brig  was  wrecked,  and  had  been  fished  out  of  her 
cabin  ; this  was  all  our  stock  of  provisions. 

Every  thing  being  now  ready,  I endeavoured  to  encour- 
age the  crew  as  well  as  I could  ; representing  to  them  that 
it  was  better  to  be  swallowed  up  all  together,  than  to  suffer 
ourselves  to  be  massacred  by  the  ferocious  savages ; adding, 
that  the  Almighty  was  able  to  save,  even  when  the  last 
ray  of  hope  was  vanishing  ; that  we  should  never  despair, 
but  exert  ourselves  to  the  last  extremity,  and  still  hope  for 
his  merciful  protection. 

As  we  surveyed  the  dangers  that  surrounded  us,  wave 
following  wave,  breaking  with  a dreadful  crash  just  out- 
ride of  us,  at  every  instant,  our  hearts  indeed  failed  us, 


46 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


unci  there  appeared  no  possibility  of  getting  safely  beyond 
the  breakers,  without  a particular  interference  of  Provi- 
dence in  our  favour.  The  particular  interference  of  Provi- 
dence in  any  case  I had  always  before  doubted.  Every 
one  trembled  with  dreadful  apprehensions,  and  each  ima- 
gined that  the  moment  we  ventured  past  the  vessel’s  stern, 
would  be  his  last.  I then  said,  “ Let  us  pull  off  our  hats, 
my  shipmates  and  companions  in  distress.”  This  was 
done  in  an  instant  ; when  lifting  my  eyes  and  my  soul  to- 
wards heaven,  I exclaimed,  “ Great  Creator  and  preserver 
of  the  universe,  who  now  seest  our  distresses  ; we  pray 
thee  to  spare  our  lives,  and  permit  us  to  pass  through  this 
overwhelming  surf  to  the  open  sea  ; but  if  we  are  doomed 
to  perish,  thy  will  be  done  ; we  commit  our  souls  to  the 
mercy  of  thee  our  God,  who  gave  them  : and  Oh  ! uni- 
versal Father,  protect  and  preserve  our  widows  and  chil- 
dren.” 

The  wind,  as  if  by’  divine  command,  at  this  very  mo- 
ment ceased  to  blow.  We  hauled  the  boat  out ; the 
dreadful  surges  that  were  nearly  bursting  upon  us,  sud- 
denly subsided,  making  a path  for  our  boat  about  twenty 
yards  wide,  through  which  we  rowed  her  out  as  smoothly 
as  if  she  had  been  on  a river  in  a calm,  whilst  on  each  side 
of  us,  and  not  more  than  ten  yards  distant,  the  surf  con- 
tinued to  break  twenty  feet  high,  and  with  unabated  fury,  j 
We  had  to  row  nearly  a mile  in  this  manner  : all  were 
fully  convinced  that  we  were  saved  by  the  immediate  in- 
terposition of  Divine  Providence  in  this  particular  in- 
stance, and  all  joined  in  returning  thanks  to  the  Supreme 
Being  for  this  mercy.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  open 
sea,  and  had  gained  some  distance  from  the  wreck,  we 
observed  the  surf  rolling  behind  us  with  the  same  force  as 
it  had  on  each  side  the  boat.  We  next  fitted  the  mast, 
and  set  the  small  boat’s  mainsail.  The  wind  norv  veered 
four  points  to  the  eastward,  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  fetch 
past  the  point  of  the  Cape,  though  the  boat  had  neither 
keel  nor  rudder.  It  was  sunset  when  we  got  out,  and  night 
coming  on,  the  wind  as  usual  increased  to  a gale  before 
morning,  and  we  kept  the  boat  to  the  wind  by  the  help  of 
an  oar,  expecting  every  moment  to  be  swallowed  up  by 
the  waves.  We  were  eleven  in  number  on  board  ; two 


SUFFERINGS  IN  TIIE  BOAT. 


47 


•1  constantly  bailing  were  scarcely  able  to  keep  her  free,, 
. changing  hands  every  half  hour.  The  night  was  very 
. dark  and  foggy,  and  we  could  not  be  sure  of  fetching  clear 
, of  the  land,  having  nothing  to  guide  us  but  the  wind.  In 
. the  morning  we  sailed  back  again  for  the  land,  and  had  ap- 
, proached  it  almost  within  reach  of  the  breakers  without 
, seeing  it,  when  we  put  about  again.  It  had  been  my  in- 
; tention  after  we  had  got  to  sea,  to  run  down  the  coast  in 
the  hope  of  finding  some  vessel,  or  to  discover  the  mouth 
of  some  river,  in  order  to  obtain  a supply  of  water.  But 
now  the  dangers  and  difficulties  we  should  have  to  encoun- 
ter in  doing  this,  were  taken  into  consideration.  If  we 
tried  to  navigate  along  the  coast,  it  was  necessary  to  know 
: our  course,  or  we  should  be  in  imminent  danger  of  being 
dashed  to  pieces  on  it  every  dark  day,  and  every  night. 
The  thick  foggy  weather  would  prevent  our  seeing  the 
land  in  the  day  time  ; whilst  the  wind,  blowing  almost 
directly  on  the  land,  would  force  ns  towards  it,  and  en- 
e danger  the  safety  of  both  the  boat  and  our  lives,  at  every 
turn  or  point.  W e had  no  compass  to  guide  us  either  by 
day  or  night ; no  instrument  by  which  to  find  our  latitude  ; 
no  rudder  to  steer  our  boat  with  ; nor  were  we  in  possess- 
e ion  of  materials  wherewith  it  was  possible  to  make  one  ; 
she  had  no  keel  to  steady  her,  nor  was  there  a steering, 
place  in  her  stern,  where  an  oar  could  be  fixed  by  any 
other  means  than  by  lashing  to  the  stern  ring,  which  af- 
forded a very  unsteady  hold.  On  the  one  hand,  we  con- 
sidered that  if  we  escaped  the  danger  of  being  driven  on 
shore  or  foundering  at  sea,  and  should  succeed  in  reach- 
ing the  cultivated  country  south  of  the  desert,  vve  should 
have  to  encounter  the  ferocious  inhabitants,  who  would  not 
fail,  n the  hope  of  plunder,  to  massacre  us,  or  doom  us 
to  slavery.  On  the  other  hand,  we  reflected  that  we  had 
escaped  from  savages  w ho  had  already  killed  one  of  our 
shipmates,  had  gained  the  open  sea  through  divine  mercy 
and  could  stand  off  to  the  westward  without  fear  of  being 
driven  on  shore.  In  this  direction  we  might  meet  with 
some  friendly  vessel  to  save  us,  which  was  our  only  hope 
in  that  way  ; and  the  worst  that  could  happen  to  us  was  to 
sink  ail  together  in  the  sea.  or  gradually  perish  through  want 
of  sustenance. 


48 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


Having  considered,  and  represented  to  my  companions 
the  dangers  that  beset  us  on  every  side,  I asked  their 
opinions  one  by  one,  and  found  they  were  unanimously  in 
favour  of  committing  themselves  to  the  open  sea  in  prefer- 
ence to  keeping  along  the  coast.  The  dangers  appeared 
to  be  fewer,  and  all  agreed  that  it  was  better  to  perish  on 
the  ocean,  if  it  was  God’s  will,  than  by  the  hands  of  the 
natives.  There  being  a strong  breeze,  we  stood  off  by 
the  wind  and  rigged  our  jib.  We  now  agreed  to  put  our- 
selves upon  allowance  of  one  bottle  of  water  and  half  a 
bottle  of  wine  among  eleven  of  us,  and  a scrap  of  pork 
and  two  soaked  and  salted  figs  for  each  man.  During  this 
day,  which  was  the  30th  August,  1815,  we  fitted  waist 
cloths  to  go  round  above  the  gunwale  of  the  boat,  to  pre- 
vent the  sea  from  dashing  over ; they  were  from  eight  to 
ten  inches  broad,  made  from  the  brig’s  fore-staysail,  and 
were  kept  up  by  small  pieces  of  a board  which  we  formed 
in  the  boat,  so  that  they  helped  in  some  measure  to  keep 
oft'  the  spray.  It  had  been  cloudy  all  day,  and  the  boat 
leaked  faster  than  she  had  done  before.  As  night  came  on 
the  wind  blew  hard  and  raised  the  sea  very  high,  but  the 
boat  was  kept  near  the  wind  by  her  sails,  and  drifted  broad- 
side before  it,  smoothing  the  sea  to  the  windward,  and  did 
not  ship  a great  deal  of  water.  On  the  31st  it  became 
more  moderate,  but  the  weather  was  very  thick  and  hazy. 
Our  pig  being  nearly  dead  for  the  want  of  water,  we 
killed  it,  taking  care,  however,  to  save  his  blood  ; which 
we  divided  amongst  us  and  drank,  our  thirst  having  be- 
come almost  insupportable.  W e also  divided  the  pig’s 
liver,  intestines,  See.  between  us,  and  ate  some  of  them, 
(as  they  were  fresh,)  to  satisfy,  in  some  degree,  our  thirst. 
Thus  this  day  passed  away  ; no  vessel  was  yet  seen  to 
relieve  us  ; we  had  determined  to  save  our  urine  for  drink, 
which  we  accordingly  did  in  some  empty  bottles,  and 
found  great  relief  from  the  use  of  it  ; for  being  obliged  to 
labour  hard  by  turns  to  keep  the  boat  above  water,  our 
thirst  was  much  more  severely  felt  than  if  we  had  remain- 
ed still.  The  night  came  on  very  dark  and  lowering; 
the  sky  seemed  big  with  an  impending  tempest ; the 
wind  blew  hard  from  the  N.  E.  and  before  midnight  the 
sea  dashed  into  the  boat  in  such  quantities  as  several  times  . 


SUFFERINGS  IN  THE  BOAT. 


49 


to  fill  her  more  than  half  full.  All  hands  were  employed 
In  throwing  out  the  water  with  hats  and  other  things, 
each  believing  his  final  hour  had  at  length  arrived,  and 
expecting  that  every  approaching  surge  would  bury  him 
for  ever  in  a watery  grave. 

The  boat  racked  like  an  old  basket,  letting  in  water 
at  every  seam  and  split ; her  timbers  working  out  or 
breaking  off ; the  nails  I had  put  in  while  last  on  shore 
were  kept  from  entirely  drawing  out,  merely  by  the  pres- 
sure of  the  water  acting  on  the  outside  of  the  boat.  Sharp 
flashes  of  lightning,  caused  by  heat  and  vapour,  shot 
across  the  gloom,  rendering  the  scene  doubly  horrid.  In 
this  situation,  some  of  the  men  thought  it  was  no  longer 
of  use  to  try  to  keep  the  boat  afloat,  as  they  said  she 
must  soon  fill  in  spite  of  all  their  exertions.  Having 
prayed  to  the  Almighty,  and  implored  pardon  for  our 
transgressions,  each  one  seemed  perfectly  resigned  to  his 
fate  : this  was  a trying  moment,  however,  and  my  ex- 
ample and  advice  could  scarcely  induce  them  to  continue 
bailing ; whilst  some  of  them,  by  thrusting  their  heads 
into  the  water,  endeavoured  to  ascertain  what  the  pains 
of  death  were,  by  feeling  the  effects  the  water  would  pro- 
duce on  their  organs.  Thus  passed  this  night ; all  my 
exertions  were  necessary  to  encourage  the  men  to  assist 
me  in  bailing  the  boat,  by  reminding  them  of  our  mi- 
raculous escape  from  the  savages,  and  through  the  surf 
to  the  open  sea,  and  enforcing  on  their  minds  the  con  - 
sideration that  we  were  stiff  in  the  hands  of  the  same 
disposing  power,  and  that  we  ought  not  to  suppose  we 
were  aided  in  escaping  from  the  v shore  by  a miracle,  to 
be  abandoned  here  and  swallowed  up  by  the  ocearr ; and 
that  for  my  own  part  I stiff  entertained  hopes  of  our  pre- 
servation ; at  any  rate,  that  it  was  a duty  we  owed  to  God 
md  ourselves  to  strive  to  the  latest  breath  to  prevent  our 
awn  destruction.  Day  came  on  amidst  these  accumu- 
lated horrors  ; it  was  the  first  of  September  : thirst  press- 
ed upon  us,  which  we  could  only  ailay  by  wetting  our 
mouths  twice  a day  with  a few  drops  of  wine  and  water, 
md  as  many  times  with  our  urine. 

The  wind  continued  to  blow  hard  all  this  day,  and  the 
succeeding  night  with  great  violence,  and  the  boat  t© 

7 


50 


Captain  eiley’s  narrative. 


work  and  leak  in  the  same  manner  as  before.  Won, 
down  with  fatigues  and  long  continued  hunger  and  thirst, 
scorched  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  no  vessel 
appearing  to  save  us,  our  water  fast  diminishing,  as  well 
as  our  strength,  every  hope  of  succour  by  meeting  with 
a vessel  entirely  failed  me,  so  that  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
2d  of  September,  I represented  to  my  companions,  that 
as  we  were  still  alive,  after  enduring  so  many  trials,  it  was 
my  advice  to  put  about,  and  make  towards  the  coast} 
again  ; that  if  we  continued  at  sea  we  must  inevitably  ! 
perish,  and  that  we  could  but  perish  in  returning  to- 
wards the  land  ; that  we  might  still  exist  four  or  five  days 
longer,  by  means  of  the  water  and  provisions  that  re- 
mained, and  that  it  might  be  the  will  of  Providence  to 
send  us  on  the  coast  where  our  vessel  had  been  wrecked, 
and  where  means  were  perhaps  prepared  to  bring  about 
our  deliverance  and  restoration  to  our  country  and  our 
families.  All  seemed  convinced  that  it  was  so,  and  we 
immediately  put  about  with  a kind  of  cheerfulness  I 
had  not  observed  in  any  countenance  since  our  first 
disaster. 

From  this  time  all  submitted  to  their  fate  with  tolerable 
patience,  and  kept  the  boat  free,  though  we  had  contin- 
ual bad  weather,  without  murmuring.  We  wetted  our 
lips  with  wine  and  water  twice  every  day,  and  ate  the 
bones  and  some  of  the  raw  flesh  of  our  pig,  with  its  skin ; 
but  at  length  we  became  so  faint  as  to  be  unable  to  take 
our  turns  in  bailing,  whilst  the  boat  laboured  so  much  as 
to  work  ofi'  nearly  all  the  nails  that  kept  the  planks  to  her 
timbers  above  water. 

By  the  6th  of  September,  at  night,  we  had  not  made 
the  land,  and  could  not  hope  to  make  the  boat  hold  to- '! 
gether  in  any  manner  above  another  day.  I expected  we 
should  have  found  the  land  that  day,  but  was  disappointed, 
and  some  of  the  people  began  again  to  despair.  Impelled 
by  thirst,  they  forgot  what  they  owed  to  their  shipmates, 
and  in  the  night  got  at,  and  drank  oft'  one  of  the  two 
bottles  of  wine  we  had  remaining.  When  I mentioned 
the  loss  of  the  v ine  on  the  morning  of  the  7th,  all  denied 
having  taken  or  drank  it,  adding  that  it  was  an  unpardon-t- 
abie  crime,  and  that  those  who  did  it  ought  to  be  thrown 


SUFFERINGS  IN  THE  BOAT. 


SI 


; overboard  instantly.  From  the  heat  observable  in  their 
i conversation,  I guessed  the  offenders ; but  the  wine  was 
t gone,  and  no  remedy  remained  but  patience,  and  stricter 
I vigilance  for  the  future. 

1 In  a short  time  we  discovered  land  at  a great  distance 
i;  ahead,  and  to  leeward.  This  gave  all  hands  new  spirits  ; 

hope  again  revived  for  a moment.  The  land  appeared 
v perfectly  smooth  in  the  distant  horizon  ; not  the  smallest 
v rising  or  hill  was  to  be  seen,  and  I concluded  we  must 
: be  near  a desert  coast,  where  our  sufferings  would  find  no 
relief  but  in  death.  We  continued  to  approach  the  land, 

: driving  along  to  the  southward  by  a swift  current,  roaring 
: like  a strong  tide  in  a narrow  rocky  passage,  until  near 
tt  sunset. 

The  coast  now  appeared  to  be  formed  of  perpendicular 
id  and  overhanging  cliffs,  rising  to  a great  height,,  with  no 
ji  shelving  Shore  to  land  on,  or  way  by  which  we  might 
rt  mount  to  the  top  of  the  precipices.  My  opinion  was, 
1 that  we  should  endeavour  to  keep  to  sea  this  night  also, 
: and  steer  along  down  the  coast,  until  by  the  help  of  day- 
light, we  might  find  a better  place  to  land,  and  where  we 
should  not  be  in  such  danger  of  being  overwhelmed  by 
the  surf;  but  in  this  I was  opposed  by  the  united  voice 
of  the  mates  and  all  the  people. 

The  surf  was  breaking  high  among  the  rocks,  near  the 
shore  : we  were  now  very  near  the  land,  and  seeing  a 
small  spot  that  bore  the  appearance  of  a sand  beach,  we 
made  for  it,  and  approaching  it  with  the  heip  of  our  oars, 
we  were  carried  on  the  top  of  a tremendous  wave,  so  as 
to  be  high  and  dry  when  the  surf  retired,  on  a little  piece 
of  sand  beach,  just  large  enough  for  the  boat  to  lie  on. 
Without  us,  and  in  the  track  we  came,  numerous  frag- 
ments of  rocks  showed  their  craggy  heads,  over  which 
the  surf  foamed  as  it  retired,  with  a dreadful  roaring, 
which  made  us  feel  we  had  once  more  escaped  instant  de- 
struction, by  what  appeared  a miraculous  interference  of 
Providence. 

We  got  out  of  the  boat,  and  carried  up  the  little  re- 
mains of  our  water  and  pork  among  the  rocks,  beyond 
the  reach  of  the  surf : the  remains  of  the  pig  had  been 
previously  consumed.  Our  boat  was  now  stove  in  reality  » 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


over  our  heads  pended  huge  masses  of  broken  and  shat- 
tered rocks,  extending  both  ways  as  for  as  the  eye  could 
reach  : our  limbs  had  become  still'  for  the  want  of  exer- 
cise ; our  flesh  had  wasted  away  for  the  want  of  suste- 
nance, and  through  fatigue  our  tongues  were  so  stiff  in 
our  parched  mouths,  that  we  could  with  great  difficulty 
speak  so  as  to  be  understood  by  each  other,  though  we 
had  finished  our  last  bottle  of  wine  between  us,  for  fear 
of  losing  it,  just  before  we  ventured  to  the  shore  through 
the  surf. 

Being  thus  placed  on  dry  land,  we  had  yet  to  discover 
how  we  were  to  reach  the  surface  above  us ; so  taking 
Mr.  Savage  with  me,  we  clambered  over  the  rocks  to 
the  westward,  (for  the  coast  running  here  from  E.  N.  E. 
to  W.  S.  W.  induced  me  to  think  we  were  near  Cape 
Blanco,  which  indeed  afterwards  proved  to  be  the  case,) 
but  we  searclied  in  vain,  and  as  there  appeared  to  be  no 
access  to  the  summit  in  that  direction,  we  returned  (it  be- 
ing then  dark)  to  our  shipmates,  who  had  been  busied  in 
preparing  a place  on  the  sand,  between  the  rocks,  to  sleep 
on.  We  now  wet  our  mouths  with  water,  ate  a small 
slice  of  the  fat  of  salt  pork,  and  after  pouring  out  our 
souls  before  the  universal  Benefactor,  in  prayers  and 
thanksgiving  for  Ins  mercy  and  his  long  continued  good- 
ness, (as  had  constantly  been  our  custom,)  we  laid  down 
io  rest,  and,  notwithstanding  our  dreadful  situation,  slept 
soundly  till  daylight. 


CHAPTER  VIE 

bufferings  of  the  Crew , and  manner  of  climbing  over  the. 
rocks  along  the  sea  shore,  under  high  cliffs — Reaching 
the  surface  of  the  Desert — Meeting  with  a company  of 
wandering  Arabs , by  whom  they  are  seized  as  slaves , 
and  stripped  naked . 

On  the  morning  of  September  the  8th,  as  soon  as  it 
was  light,  being  much  refreshed  by  our  undisturbed  sleep, 
we  asrreed  to  leave  all  we  had  that  was  cumbrous  or 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


53 


heavy,  and  try  to  make  our  way  to  the  eastward,  in  hopes 
of  finding  a place,  whilst  we  had  yet  strength  remaining, 
to  dig  for  water,  or  to  get  to  the  surface  of  the  land  above 
us,  where  we  hoped  to  find  some  herbage  or  vegetable 
juice  to  allay,  in  some  degree,  our  burning  thirst,  which 
was  now  rendered  more  grievous  than  ever,  by  our  eating 
a few  muscles  that  were  found  on  the  rocks,  and  extreme- 
ly salt.  Having  agreed  to  keep  together,  and  to  render 
each  other  mutual  assistance,  we  divided  amongst  us  the 
little  water  we  had,  every  one  receiving  his  share  in  a 
bottle,  in  order  to  preserve  it  as  long  as  possible  : then 
taking  a small  piece  or  two  of  pork,  which  we  slung  on 
our  backs,  either  in  a spare  shirt  or  a piece  of  canvass, 
leaving  all  our  clothes  but  those  we  had  on,  and  our  jack- 
ets, we  bent  our  way  towards  the  east.  I had,  before 
starting,  buried  the  bag  of  dollars,  and  induced  each  man 
to  throw  away  every  one  he  had  about  him,  as  I was  con- 
vinced that  money  had  been  the  cause  of  our  former  ill 
•treatment,  by  tempting  the  natives  to  practise  treacherous 
and  cruel  means,  in  order  to  extort  it  from  us. 

We  proceeded  now,  as  well  as  we  were  able,  along 
close  to  the  water  side.  The  land  was  either  nearly  per- 
pendicular, or  jutting  over  our  heads,  rising  to  the  height 
of  from  five  to  six  hundred  feet,  and  we  were  forced  to 
climb  over  masses  of  sharp  and  craggy  rocks,  from  two 
to  three  hundred  feet  in  height ; then  to  descend  again 
by  letting  ourselves  down  from  rock  to  rock,  until  we 
reached  the  water’s  edge  ; now  waiting  for  a surf  to  re- 
tire, while  we  rushed  one  by  one  past  a steep  point,  up 
to  our  necks  in  the  water,  to  the  rocks  more  favourable 
on  the  other  side,  where  by  clinging  fast  hold,  we  kept 
ourselves  from  being  washed  away  by  the  next  surf,  until, 
with  each  other’s  assistance,  we  clambered  up  beyondthe 
reach  of  the  greedy  billows.  The  beating  of  the  ocean, 
and  the  force  of  the  currents  against  this  coast,  had  un- 
dermined the  precipices  in  such  a manner,  that  vast  mass- 
es of  rocks,  gravel,  and  sand,  had  given  way,  and  tum- 
bled to  the  shore.  Rocks  falling  on  rocks,  had  formed 
chasms,  through  which  we  were  forced  to  pass  at  times, 
for  a long  distance  ; and  surmounting  one  obstacle,  seem- 
ed only  to  open  to  our  view  another,  and  a more  danger- 


54 


CAPTAIN  El  LEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


ous  one.  At  one  place,  we  were  obliged  to  climb  along 
on  a narrow  ledge  of  rocks,  between  forty  and  fifty  fee' 
high,  and  not  more  than  eight  inches  broad  ; those  at  out 
backs  were  perpendicular,  and  a little  higher  up,  huge 
pieces  that  had  been  broken  off  from  near  the  surface, 
and  stopped  on  their  way  down  by  other  fragments,  seem- 
ed to  totter  as  if  on  a pivot,  directly  over  our  heads  ; 
while  the  least  slip  must  have  plunged  us  into  the  fright- 
ful almss  below,  where  the  foaming  surges  would  instantly 
have  dashed  us  to  pieces  against  the  rocks.  Our  shoes 
Mere  nearly  all  worn  off ; our  feet  were  lacerated  and 
bleeding ; the  rays  of  the  sun,  beating  on  our  emaciated 
bodies,  heated  them,  we  thought,  nearly  to  dissolution  ; 
and  under  these  towering  cliffs,  there  was  not  a breath  of 
air  to  fan  our  almost  boiling  blood.  I had,  in  crawling 
through  one  of  the  holes  between  the  rocks,  broke  my 
bottle,  and  spilled  the  little  water  it  contained  ; and  my 
tongue,  cleaving  to  the  roof  of  my  mouth,  was  as  useless 
as  a dry  stick,  until  I was  enabled  to  loosen  it  by  the 
expedient  before  mentioned. 

Thus  passed  this  day  with  us,  and  when  night  came 
on,  it  brought  with  it  new  distresses.  We  had  advanced 
along  the  coast  not  more  than  about  four  miles  this  day, 
with  all  the  exertion  we  were  capable  of,  without  finding 
any  change  for  the  better  in  our  local  situation,  whilst 
our  strength  was  continually  diminishing,  and  no  circum- 
stance  occurred  to  revive  our  hopes.  We  had  seen  this 
day,  however,  on  the  broken  rocks,  several  locusts, 
which  ive  took  to  be  grasshoppers,  and  concluded,  if  we 
could  once  reach  the  surface,  we  should  find  herbage,  at 
least,  to  feed  on.  These  locusts  were  dead,  and  crum- 
bled to  dust  on  the  slightest  touch. 

We  now  found  a good  place  in  the  sand,  about  one 
hundred  feet  from  the  sea,  under  a high  cliff,  to  sleep  on  ; j 
here  we  greased  our  mouths  by  eating  a small  piece  of 
salt  pork,  and  wet  them,  as  usual,  with  a sip  of  urine. 
All  hands,  except  myself,  had  a little  fresh  water  left ; 
my  comrades  knew  1 had  not  one  drop,  and  two  of  them 
offered  to  let  me  taste  of  theirs,  with  which  I just  moist- 
ened my  tongue,  and  after  sending  up  our  prayers  to 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


55 


'| : heaven,  for  mercy  and  relief  in  our  forlorn  and  desolate 
e condition,  we  laid  ourselves  down  to  sleep. 
f'Ui;  I had,  on  setting  out  from  home,  received  Horace 
;t  Savage  under  my  particular  charge,  from  his  widowed 
e,  mother  : his  father,  when  living,  having  been  my  inti- 
ni-  mate  friend,  I promised  her  to  take  care  of  him,  as  if  he 
•,  was  my  own  son,  and  this  promise  I had  endeavoured  to 
lit  fulfil.  He  was  now  in  deep  distress,  and  I determined 
I)  within  myself  that  I would  adopt  him  as  my  son,  for  his 
s mother  was  poor  ; that  I would  watch  over  his  ripening 
'(i  years,  in  case  we  both  lived,  and  if  fortune  should  favour 
i me  in  future,  that  he  should  share  it  in  common  with  my 
; children.  I now  took  him  in  my  arms,  and  we  all  slept 
soundly  till  morning,  though  the  change  was  so  great  in 
the  night,  from  extreme  heat  to  a damp  cold  air,  that  we 
awoke  in  the  morning  (September  9th)  with  benumbed 
ij  and  trembling  limbs.  Sleep,  however,  had  refreshed  us, 
? and  though  our  feet  were  torn,  and  our  frames  nearly 
it  exhausted,  yet  we  chased  away  despair,  and  set  forward 
on  our  journey. 

i We  soon  discovered,  at  no  great  distance  ahead,  a 
sand  beach  that  appeared  large,  and  from  which  the  shore 
upward  seemed  more  sloping,  as  if  opening  a way  to  the 
; surface  above  it ; we  also  thought  we  should  be  able,  in 
i case  we  could  reach  the  beach,  to  o-et  water  that  would  be 
■ drinkable,  by  digging  in  the  sand  down  to  a level  with 
> i the  water  in  the  sea,  and  letting  it  filter  into  the  hole  ; 
this  I had  done  on  the  Little  Keys  of  the  Bahama  bank 
with  success,  and  expected  it  would  be  the  same  here  ; — » 
so  we  made  our  way  slowly  along,  as  we  had  done  the 
day  before,  until  we  got  within  a short  distance  of  this 
j beach,  where  we  met  with  a promontory  of  rocks,  which 
’ rose  in  height  even  with  the  surface  above  us  ; jutting  far 
; into  the  sea,  whose  waves  had  worn  in  under  its  base  to 
i the  distance  of  lift}-  or  one  hundred  feet,  and  now  dashed 
m a wild  and  frightful  manner  against  the  projecting' 
points,  which  its  washings  for  ages  had  formed  under- 
: neath.  To  climb  over  this  formidable  obstruction,  was 
impossible  ; to  get  around  it  through  the  water,  appeared 
equally  so,  as  there  was  not  sufficient  time,  by  the  great- 
est exertion,  to  pass  before  the  return  of  the  surf,  which 


I I 

56  CAPTAIN  RILEY:S  NARRATIVE. 

would  inevitably  hurl  the  adventurer  into  the  cavities  un 
der  the  cliff',  among  the  sharp  rocks,  where  he  must! 
immediately  perish. 

Thus  far  Ave  had  all  got  safe  ; to  advance  by  what  ap- 
peared to  be  the  only  possible  way,  seemed  like  seeking 
instant  death  ; to  remain  in  our  present  situation,  was 
merely  to  die  a lingering  one ; and  to  return,  was  still 
worse,  by  increasing  our  pains,  without  leading  to  any 
chance  of  relief.  Before  us  was  a prospect  of  getting  I 
water,  and  arriving  at  the  summit  of  the  land,  if  we  could  I 
only  get  round  the  promontory  alive  ; and  fortunately,  at  I 
this  moment  Ave  observed  a rock  about  half  way  across 
this  point,  that  had  tumbled  down  from  above,  and  had 
been  washed  full  of  holes  ; it  was  covered  by  every  surf, 
and  its  top  left  bare  as  the  wave  receded.  I imagined  I 
could  reach  it  before  the  wave  came  in  ; and  after  making 
known  my  intentions  to  my  companions,  I followed  the 
surf  out,  and  laid  hold  of  the  rock  just  as  the  returning 
swell  ovenvhelmed  me.  I clung  to  it  for  my  life,  the 
surf  passing  over  me,  and  spending  its  fury  among  the 
crags  : the  instant  it  retired  I hurried  on  to  the  steep 
rocks  beyond  the  point,  Avhere  I again  held  on,  while  an- 
other surf  swept  over  me,  and  then  left  me  to  clamber  up, 
as  quick  as  I Avas  able,  on  the  flat  surface  of  the  rock,  be- 
yond the  reach  of  the  waves.  The  tide  Avas  not  yet 
entirely  out,  though  I had  judged  it  was  ; and  as  it  con- 
tinued to  fall,  my  people,  following  the  same  course  and 
embracing  the  same  means,  all  got  safe  to  the  first  rock, 
and  from  thence  to  the  place  Avhere  1 lay  prostrate  to  re- 
ceive and  assist  them  in  getting  up.  Though  our  limbs 
and  bodies  Avere  very  much  bruised  in  this  severe  en- 
counter, yet  Ave  felt  someAvhat  encouraged,  and  made  for 
the  sand  beach  as  fast  as  we  were  abie.  We  soon  reached 
it,  and  began  digging  in  the  sand  for  water,  at  different 
distances  from  the  sea,  but  found  it  to  be  as  salt  as  the 
ocean. 

After  digging  several  holes  farther  off,  and  meeting 
with  dry  rock  instead  of  water,  I pitched  upon  a spot  for 
our  lust  effort ; and  while  the  others  Avere  digging,  I told 
them  I would  go  and  see  if  I could  get  up  the  bank,  and 
if  1 succeeded  that  I would  return  in,  a short  time  with  the 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


57 


- ! news : the  bank  here  rose  abruptly,  leaving,  however,  in 
s some  places  sufficient  slope  for  a man  to  ascend  it  by 
climbing.  Through  one  of  these  slopes  I made  my  way 
up,  in  the  hope  of  finding  some  green  thing  that  might- 
help  to  allay  our  burning  thirst,  and  some  tree  to  shelter 
us  from  the  scorching  blaze  of  the  sun  ; but  what  was 
my  surprise  when  I came  to  the  spot  so  long  desired,  and 
found  it  to  be  a barren  plain,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  each  way,  without  a tree,  shrub,  or  spear  of 
grass,  that  might  give  the  smallest  relief  to  expiring  na- 
ture ? I had  exerted  myself  to  the  utmost  to  get  there  ; 
the  dreary  sight  was  more  than  I could  bear;'  my  spirits 
fainted  within  me,  and  I fell  to  the  earth  deprived  of  every 
I sensation.  When  I recovered,  it  was  some  time  before 
I could  recollect  where  I was  : my  intolerable  thirst  how- 
ever at  length  convinced  me,  and  I was  enabled  to  admin- 
,1!  ister  the  same  wretched  and  disgusting  relief  to  which  I 
, had  so  frequently  before  been  compelled  to  resort. 

Despair  now  seized  on  me,  and  I resolved  to  cast  my- 
c self  into  the  sea  as  soon  as  I could  reach  it,  and  put  an  end 
, to  my  life  and  miseries  together.  But  when  1 the  next 
moment  reflected  that  I had  left  ten  of  my  fellow  creatures 
on  the  shore,  who  looked  up  to  me  for  an  example  of 
courage  and  fortitude,  and  for  whom  I still  felt  myself 
bound  to  continue  my  exertions,  which  might  yet  be 
blessed  with  success ; and  that  at  the  moment  when  I 
supposed  the  hand  of  relief  far  from  me,  it  might  be  very 
near  ; and  when  I next  thought  of  my  wife  and  children, 
I felt  a kind  of  conviction  within  me,  that  we  should  not 
all  perish  after  such  signal  deliverances.  I then  made  for 
the  sea  side  about  a mile  eastward  of  my  men,  and  finding 
a good  place  between  some  rocks,  I bathed  myself  for 
half  an  hour  in  the  sea  water,  which  refreshed  and  revived 
me  very  much,  and  then  returned  to  my  men  with  a heart 
lighter  than  I expected.  I was  very  much  fatigued,  and 
threw  myself  down  on  the  sand.  They  huddled  around 
me,  to  know  what  success  I had  met  with ; but  to  waive 
the  subject  of  my  sad  discovery,  I told  them  we  could  go 
along  the  beach  for  two  miles  before  meeting  again  with 
the  perpendicular  cliffs,  and  would  find  great  relief  by 
bathing  our  bodies  in  the  salt  water ; inquiring,  at  the 

3 


58 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


same  time,  if  they  had  found  any  fresh  in  the  last  place 
they  had  been  digging.  I thus  diverted  their  minds,  in 
some  measure,  from  the  object  they  wished  to  inquire  af- 
ter ; and  as  I found  they  had  dug  down  six  or  eight  feet, 
and  had  found  no  water,  having  come  to  a rock  which 
frustrated  all  their  attempts ; with  heavy  hearts  and  totter- 
ing limbs  we  staggered  along  the  shore  together. 

It  was  about  mid-day  when  we  got  to  the  end  of  the 
sand  beach ; my  people  thought  it  would  be  impossible 
for  them  to  climb  the  craggy  steep  ; so  with  common  con- 
sent we  laid  ourselves  down  under  the  shade  formed  by  a 
shelving  rock,  to  rest,  and  to  screen  ourselves  from  the 
rays  of  the  sun,  which  had  heated  the  air  to  such  a de- 
gree, that  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  we  could 
fetch  our  breath.  There  was  no  wind  or  air  stirring  at 
this  time,  except  the  hot  steam  rising  from  the  sandy 
beach,  which  had  been  wet  by  the  sea  at  the  last  tide. 

Having  lain  down  in  our  exhausted  state,  neither  thirst  ; 
nor  our  reflections,  had  power  to  keep  our  eyes  open  ; we 
sunk  into  a lethargic  sleep,  which  continued  about  two 
hours,  during  which  time  a light  breeze  from  the  sea  had 
set  in,  and  gently  fanned  and  refreshed  our  debilitated  bo- 
dies. We  then  ascended  the  steep  bank,  crawling  fre- 
quently on  our  hands  and  knees.  Though  I had  previ- 
ously prepared  all  their  minds  for  a barren  prospect,  yet 
the  sight  of  it,  when  they  reached  its  level,  had  such  an 
effect  on  their  senses  that  they  sunk  to  the  earth  involun- 
tarily ; and  as  they  surveyed  the  dry  and  dreary  waste, 
stretching  out  to  an  immeasurable  extent  before  them, 
they  exclaimed,  “ ’Tis  enough  ; here  we  must  breathe  our  | 
last ; we  have  no  hope  before  us  of  finding  either  water 
or  provisions,  or  human  beings,  or  even  wild  beasts ; 
nothing  can  live  here.”  The  little  moisture  yet  left  in  us 
overflowed  at  our  eyes  ; but  as  the  salt  tears  rolled  down 
our  woe- worn  and  haggard  cheeks,  we  were  fain  to  catch 
them  with  our  fingers  and  carry  them  to  our  mouths,  that 
they  might  not  be  lost,  and  serve  to  moisten  our  tongues, 
that  were  now  nearly  as  dry  as  parched  leather,  and  so  stiff, 
that  with  difficulty  we  could  articulate  a sentence  so  as  to 
be  understood  by  each  other. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


59 


I began  how  to  exhort  and  press  them  to  go  forward ; 
telling  them  that  we  still  might  find  relief,  and  in  this  effort 
I was  assisted  by  Hogan,  who  thought  with  me  that  it  was 
time  enough  to  lie  down  and  die,  when  we  could  not  walk. 
Mr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Savage  were  also  willing,  and  we 
moved  on  slowly,  with  scarcely  a hope,  however,  of  meet- 
ing with  the  least  relief.  We  continued  along  on  the  edge 
of  the  cliffs,  which  could  not  be  less  than  from  five  to  six 
hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  height : the  surface  of  the 
ground  was  baked  down  almost  as  hard  as  flint ; it  was 
composed  of  small  ragged  stones,  gravel,  and  reddish 
earth.  We  observed  a small  dry  stalk  of  a plant,  resem- 
bling that  of  a parsnip,  though  very  low ; and  some  dry 
remains  of  locusts  were  also  scattered  on  the  surface  as  we 
proceeded.  Near  night  we  saw  some  small  holes  dug  on 
the  surface,  and  on  examination  found  they  had  been  made 
in  order  to  get  at  the  root  of  the  dry  weed  we  had  just 
before  seen : this  we  conceived  had  been  done  by  some 
wild  beasts  ; but  finding  no  tracks  of  any  kind  near  them 
nor  on  the  dirt  dug  up,  I concluded  it  was  done  by  man, 
and  declared  my  hopes  to  my  desponding  companions  of 
soon  meeting  with  human  beings. 

We  procured,  after  great  labour  in  digging  with  sticks 
we  had  brought  from  the  boat  and  the  help  of  stones,  a 
few  small  pieces  of  a root  as  large  as  a man's  finger ; it 
was  very  dry,  but  in  taste  resembled  smellage  or  celery. 
We  could  not  get  enough  to  be  of  any  material  service  to 
us,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  the  plant,  and  the  hardness  of 
the  ground ; but  about  sunset  we  discovered,  on  a small 
spot  of  sand,  the  imperfect  track  of  a camel,  and  thought 
we  saw  that  of  a man,  which  we  took  to  be  a very  old 
track. 

Believing  from  our  present  feelings  that  we  could  not 
possibly  survive  a day  longer  without  drink,  and  no  signs 
of  finding  any  appearing,  the  last  ray  of  hope  faded  away, 
and  the  gloom  of  despair,  which  had  at  length  settled  on 
our  hearts,  now  became  visible  in  every  countenance.  A 
little  after  sunset  we  saw  at  a considerable  distance  in  ad- 
vance, perhaps  three  or  four  miles,  another  sand  beach, 
and  I urged  myself  forwards  towards  it  as  fast  as  I could 
in  hopes  of  getting  some  rest  by  sleeping  on  the  sand  for 


60 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


the  night,  as  the  ground  we  were  now  on  was  as  hard  as 
rock,  and  covered  with  small  sharp  stones.  I was  encour- 
aging the  men  to  follow  on,  when  Clark,  being  near  me, 
begged  me  to  look  towards  the  beach,  saying,  “ I think  I 
see  a light !”  It  was  the  light  of  a fire  ! 

Joy  thrilled  through  my  veins  like  the  electric  spark  : 
hope  again  revived  within  me,  and  while  I showed  it  to 
my  sinking  and  despairing  crew,  I found  it  communicated 
to  them  the  same  feelings.  I told  them  we  must  approach 
the  natives,  who  I could  not  doubt  were  encamped  for  the 
night,  with  the  greatest  caution,  for  fear  of  alarming  them, 
and  falling  a sacrifice  to  their  fury,  in  the  confusion  we 
might  occasion  by  our  sudden  approach  in  the  dark. 
New  life  and  spirits  were  infused  into  all  the  crew,  and 
we  soon  reached  a broken  place  in  the  bank,  through 
which  we  descended  carefully  over  the  broken  rocks,  from 
three  to  four  hundred  feet,  to  a sandy  spot  near  its  base, 
where  we  laid  ourselves  down  for  the  night,  after  imploring 
the  protection  of  Almighty  God,  and  wetting  our  mouths 
with  a few  drops  of  water  still  remaining  in  the  bottles. 

The  sand  on  which  we  lay  was  heated  by  the  sun’s  rays 
sufficiently  to  have  roasted  eggs,  and  as  we  were  on  the 
side  of  a sand  hill,  we  scraped  off  the  top  of  it  for  a foot 
or  two  deep ; when  finding  the  heat  more  supportable, 
and  the  cool  breeze  of  the  night  setting  in,  all  hands  being 
excessively  fatigued,  soon  forgot  their  sufferings  in  the 
arms  of  sleep,  excepting  myself ; for  my  mind  had  be- 
come so  excited  by  alternate  hopes,  and  fears,  and  reflec- 
tions, that  I was  kept  awake  through  the  whole  of  this 
long  and  dismal  night.  I had  determined,  as  soon  as  day- 
light appeared,  to  show  ourselves  to  the  natives,  and  sub- 
mit either  to  death  or  life  from  their  hands.  I had  no  doubt 
of  their  being  Arabs  who  would  take  and  hold  us  as  slaves, 
and  though  I did  not  expect  myself  to  live  but  a short 
time  in  that  condition,  I presumed  some  of  my  fellow 
sufferers  might,  and  that  it  was  a decree  of  Providence 
which  had  set  this  alternative  before  us. 

I no  longer  felt  any  fear  of  death,  for  that  would  put  a 
period  to  my  long  sufferings : my  thirst  had  become  so 
insupportable,  that  1 could  with  difficulty  breathe,  and 
thought  I would  be  willing  to  sell  my  life  for  one  gill  of 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


61 


i fresh  water.  My  distresses  had  been  so  excessive,  and 
my  cares  and  anxieties  for  my  shipmates  so  great,  that  all 
thoughts  of  my  family  had  been  driven  almost  entirely 
1 1 from  my  mind.  I could  not  sleep — why  was  i denied 
what  all  around  me  were  enjoying  ? I shut  my  eyes,  and 
prayed  to  be  permitted  to  sleep,  if  only  for  one  hour,  but 
(fall  in  vain.  1 imagined  that  the  savages,  who  were  near 
1 : us,  would  not  take  our  lives  immediately,  as  it  was  con- 
h trary  to  the  nature  of  man  to  slay  his  fellow  creatures, 
e ; merely  from  a thirst  for  blood. 

i,  We  had  now  no  arms  to  defend  ourselves,  nor  any  pro- 
e perty  to  excite  their  jealousy,  revenge,  or  avarice  ; we 
were  as  miserable,  I conceived,  as  human  beings  could 
i be,  and  I hoped  we  should  excite  pity,  even  in  the  breasts 
i of  the  savage  Arabs.  I could  hardly  yet  think,  that  we 
a were  to  fall  a sacrifice  to  these  people,  after  the  providen- 
, tial  escapes  we  had  already  experienced  : next  the  remem- 
< brance  of  my  wife  and  children  flitted  across  my  mind, 

> and  I was  forced  to  acknowledge,  that  however  bad  their 
situation  might  be,  their  real  distress  could  in  no  wise 
equal  mine,  and  that  I had  no  right  to  repine  at  the  dis- 
: pensations  of  Providence,  since  every  mortal  has  his  circle 
wisely  marked  out  by  heaven  ; and  nothing  but  blindness 
to  the  future,  occasions  us  to  complain  of  the  ways  of 
j our  Creator.  If  it  was  the  will  of  the  Supreme  Being 
that  I should  again  see  and  embrace  my  beloved  family,  it 
■ would  certainly  take  place  ; if  not,  that  power  who  or- 
dered all  things  for  the  general  good,  would  not  forsake 
s them. 

Thus  passed  away  the  night,  which  had  seemed  to  me 
an  endless  one.  I was  impatient  to  know  my  fate,  and 
chid  the  slowness  of  the  sun  ; my  great  anxiety  and  wake- 
, fulness,  rendered  my  thirst  doubly  painful,  and  having 
t expended  all  the  urine  I had  so  carefully  saved,  I had  re- 
' course  before  morning  to  robbery,  and  actually  stole  a sip 
of  the  cook’s  water,  which  he  had  made  and  saved  in  a 
bottle  ; but  the  only  taste  it  had  for  me  was  a salt  one, 
i and  it  seemed  (if  possible)  to  increase  my  burning  thirst. 

The  day  at  last  arrived  that  was  to  decide  our  fate.  It 
i was  the  10th  of  September.  I awakened  my  compan- 
ions, and  told  them  we  must  now  go  forward  and  show 


62  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

ourselves  to  the  natives — that  I expected  they  would  seize 
upon  us  as  slaves,  but  had  strong  hopes  that  some  of  us 
would  escape  with  our  lives.  I also  mentioned  to  them 
the  name  of  the  American  Consul  General  at  Tangier, 
and  that  if  it  ever  was  in  their  power,  they  must  write  to 
him,  and  inform  him  of  the  fate  of  our  vessel  and  her 
crew  : to  write,  if  possible,  to  any  Christian  merchant  in 
Mogadore,  Gibraltar,  or  elsewhere,  or  to  the  Consul  at 
Algiers,  Tunis,  or  Tripoli,  if  they  should  hear  those 
places  mentioned,  and  exhorted  all  to  submit  to  their  fate 
like  men,  and  be  obedient,  as  policy  required,  to  their 
future  masters.  I reminded  them  again  of  the  former  in- 
terpositions  of  Providence  in  our  favour,  and  said  all  I 
could  to  encourage  and  persuade  them,  that  mildness  and 
submission  might  save  our  lives — that  resistance  and  stub- 
bornness would  certainly  tend  to  make  them  more  misera- 
ble while  alive,  and  probably  prompt  the  natives  to  mur- 
der them  out  of  resentment. 

All  agreed  to  go  forward,  and  on  rising  the  little  sand 
lulls  near  us,  we  discovered  a very  large  drove  of  camels 
at  about  half  a mile  to  the  eastward  of  us,  with  a large 
company  of  people,  in  a kind  of  valley  formed  by  a ridge 
of  sand  hills  on  the  north  next  the  sea,  and  by  the  high 
land  to  the  south,  rising  from  live  to  six  hundred  feet  in 
upright  and  overhanging  cliffs — through  which,  a little 
farther  on,  we  saw  a deep  hollow  that  appeared  to  have 
been  formed  by  some  convulsive  shock  of  the  earth, 
which  had  thus  made  a sort  of  passage,  through  which 
camels  were  enabled  to  pass  up  and  down,  but  with  great 
difficulty.  The  Arabs  seemed  busied  in  giving  water  to 
their  camels  ; they  saw  us,  and  in  an  instant  one  man  and 
two  women  ran  towards  us  with  great  speed.  As  they 
came  forward,  many  others  of  them  who  saw  us,  also 
began  to  advance : so  taking  Mr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Sav- 
age with  me,  I went  forward  to  meet  them,  bowed  myself 
to  the  ground  before  them,  and  with  signs  implored  their 
compassion. 

The  man  was  armed  with  a scimitar,  which  he  held 
naked  in  his  hand.  He  ran  up  to  me  as  if  to  cut  me 
to  the  earth  : I bowed  again  in  token  of  submission,  and 
he  began  without  further  ceremony  to  strip  off  my  cloth- 


r r rfi 


M.  31 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


63 


ing,  while  the  women  were  doing  the  same  to  Mr.  Wil- 
liams and  Mr.  Savage.  Thirty  or  forty  more  were  ar- 
I,  riving — some  running  on  foot,  with  muskets  or  naked 
scimitars  in  their  hands ; others  riding  on  swift  camels, 
came  quickly  up  : — by  the  time  they  arrived,  however, 
we  were  all  stripped  naked  to  the  skin.  Those  Arabs  near 
us  threw  up  sand  into  the  air,  as  the  others  approached, 
yelling  loudly,  which  I now  learned  was  a sign  of  hostili- 
ty. The  one  who  stript  me  had  also  taken  the  cook,  and 
had  put  all  the  clothing  he  had  stript  from  us  into  a blanket, 
which  he  had  taken  from  off  his  own  back  for  that  pur- 
pose, leaving  himself  entirely  naked.  This  bundle  he  laid 
on  the  negro’s  shoulders,  making  me  understand  that 
myself  and  the  black  man  belonged  to  him,  and  that  we 
. must  not  let  the  others  take  the  clothes  in  the  bundle  under 
pain  of  death. 

As  soon  as  those  on  the  camels  were  near,  they  made 
them  lie  down,  and  jumping  off,  ran  to  us  with  their  scim- 
itars naked  and  ready  for  action  ; those  on  foot  now  joined 
these,  and  a great  noise  and  scuffle  ensued.  Six  or  eight 
of  them  were  about  me,  one  hauling  me  one  way  and  one 
another  : poor  Dick,  the  black  man,  partook  of  the  haul 
ing,  and  each  man  seemed  to  insist  most  strenuously  that 
we  belonged  of  right  to  him.  The  one  who  stript  us, 
stuck  to  us  as  his  lawful  property,  signifying,  “ you  may 
have  the  others,  these  are  mine.”  They  cut  at  each  other 
| over  my  head,  and  on  every  side  of  me,  with  their  bright 
weapons,  which  fairly  whizzed  through  the  air  within  an 
' inch  of  my  naked  body,  and  on  every  side  of  me,  now 
hacking  each  other’s  arms  apparently  to  the  bone,  then  lay- 
l ing  their  ribs  bare  with  gashes,  while  their  heads,  hands, 
and  thighs,  received  a full  share  of  cuts  and  w ounds.  The 
i blood,  streaming  from  every  gash,  ran  down  their  bodies, 
colouring  and  heightening  the  natural  hideousness  of  their 
appearance.  I had  expected  to  be  cut  to  pieces  in  this 
dreadful  affray,  but  was  not  injured. 

Those  w'ho  were  not  actually  engaged  in  combat,  seizect 
the  occasion,  and  snatched  away  the  clothing  in  Dick’s 
bundle,  so  that  when  the  fight  was  over,  he  had  nothing 
left  but  his  master’s  blanket.  This  battle  and  contest  last 
ed  for  nearly  an  hour — brother  cutting  brother,  friend 


64 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


slashing  friend.  Happily  for  them,  their  scimitars  were 
not  very  sharp,  so  that  when  they  rubbed  off  the  dried 
blood  from  their  bodies  afterwards  with  sand,  their  wounds  i 
were  not  so  great  or  deep  as  I expected  they  would  be,  , 
and  they  did  not  pay  the  least  apparent  attention  to  them. 

I had  no  time  to  see  what  they  were  doing  with  my  ship- ; 
mates ; only  myself  and  the  cook  were  near  each  other. 

The  battle  over,  I saw  my  distressed  companions  di- 
vided among  the  Arabs,  and  all  going  towards  the  drove 
of  camels,  though  they  were  at  some  distance  from  me. 
We  two  were  delivered  into  the  hands  of  two  old  women, 
who  urged  us  on  with  sticks  towards  the  camels.  Naked 
and  barefoot,  I could  not  go  very  fast,  and  showed  the 
women  my  mouth,  which  was  parched  white  as  frost,  and 
without  a sign  of  moisture.  W hen  we  got  near  the  well, 
one  of  the  women  called  for  another,  who  came  to  us  with 
a wooden  bowl,  that  held,  I should  guess,  about  a gallon 
of  water,  and  setting  it  on  the  ground,  made  myself  and 
Dick  kneel  down  and  put  our  heads  into  it  like  camels.  I 
drank  I suppose  half  a gallon,  though  I had  been  very- 
particular  in  cautioning  the  men  against  drinking  too  much 
at  a time,  in  case  they  ever  came  to  water.  They  then  led 
us  to  the  well,  the  water  of  which  was  nearly  as  black 
and  disgusting  as  stale  bilge  water.  A large  bowl  was 
now  filled  with  it,  and  a little  sour  camel’s  milk  poured 
from  a goat  skin  into  it ; this  tasted  to  me  delicious,  and 
we  all  drank  of  it  till  our  stomachs  were  literally  filled. 
But  this  intemperance  very  soon  produced  a violent  diar- 
rhoea ; the  consequences  of  which,  however,  were  not 
very  troublesome,  and  as  our  situation  was  similar  to  that 
of  a beast,  being  totally  divested  of  clothing,  all  we  cared 
about  was  to  slake  our  unabating  thirst,  and  replenish  our  1 
stomachs  by  repeated  draughts  of  this  washy  and  unwhole- 
some swill. 

We  now  begged  for  something  to  eat,  but  these  Arabs 
had  nothing  for  themselves,  and  seemed  very  sorry  it  was 
not  in  their  power  to  give  us  some  food.  There  were  at 
and  about  the  well,  I should  reckon,  about  one  hundred 
persons,  men,  women,  and  children,  and  from  four  to 
five  hundred  camels,  large  and  small.  The  sun  beat  very 
fiercely  upon  us,  and  our  skins  seemed  actually  to  fry  like 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


meat  before  the  fire.  These  people  continued  to  draw 
water  for  their  camels,  of  which  the  animals  drank  enor- 
mous quantities.  It  was  about  10  o’clock  A.  M.  as  I 
, judged  by  the  sun,  when  one  company  of  the  Arabs, 
T having  finished  watering,  separated  their  camels  from 
, among  the  others,  took  Mr.  Williams,  Robins,  Porter, 
Hogan,  Barrett,  and  Burns,  mounted  them  on  the  bare 
jj  i backs  of  the  camels  behind  the  hump,  by  the  hair  of 
. which  they  were  obliged  to  steady  themselves  and  hold 
on,  without  knowing  whither  they  were  going,  or  if  I 
should  ever  see  them  again.  I took  an  affectionate  leave 
of  them.  This  their  Arab  masters  permitted  me  to  do 
l:.  Without  interruption,  and  could  not  help  showing  at  this 
scene,  that  the  feelings  of  humanity  were  not  totally  ex- 
U tinguished  in  their  bosoms.  They  then  hurried  them 
j,  off,  and  ascending  through  the  hollow  or  crevice  towards 
■,  the  face  of  the  desert,  they  were  ali  soon  out  of  sight, 
d There  remained  with  the  party  to  which  I belonged, 

[ Mr.  Savage,  Clark,  Horace,  and  Dick  the  cook.  Mr. 
■y  Savage  was  permitted  to  retain  an  old  Guernsey  hock, 
i,  and  part  of  a pah'  of  trowsers  about  his  middle,  which 
j they  had  not  pulled  off ; but  the  rest  of  us  were  entirely 
stripped.  Mr.  Savage,  Clark,  and  Horace  were  forced 
to  assist  in  drawing  water  for  the  camels,  until  all  had 
j drank  their  fill : then  having  filled  with  water  a consid- 
d erable  number  of  goat  skins,  which  had  been  cut  round 
■ the  neck  and  stripped  off  these  animals  over  the  tail, 
leaving  them  otherwise  as  whole  as  when  on  their  backs, 

. they  slung  them  by  the  skin  of  their  legs  on  each  side  of 
the  camels,  after  tying  up  the  neck  to  prevent  the  water 
escaping,  by  means  of  a small  rope  which  they  fastened 
to  the  fore  legs  of  the  skin  to  keep  it  up.  They  next  put 
on  their  baskets  for  the  women  and  children  to  ride  in  : 
these  were  made  of  camel’s  skin,  and  fixed  in  such  a 
manner,  with  a wooden  rim  around  them,  over  which 
the  skin  was  sewed,  that  three  or  four  couid  sit  in  them 
with  perfect  safety  and  ease,  only  taking  care  to  preserve 
their  balance.’  These  baskets  were  fastened  under  the 
camels’  bellies  with  a strong  rope  : I was  obliged  to  assist 
in  putting  them  on,  and  was  in  hopes  of  being  permitted 
to  ride  in  one  of  them  ; but  that  was  not  the  intention  of 

9 


GO 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


my  master.  I,  as  well  as  those  who  were  with  me,  ha*! 
drank  a great  deal  of  water,  while  we  were  at  the  well, 
which  had  passed  oft',  as  before  observed,  without  doing 
us  any  injury.  We  had  been  furnished  also  with  a little 
milk  in  our  water  two  or  three  times,  which  gave  some 
relief  to  our  hunger.  The  men  had  saddles  just  large 
enough  for  their  seat : the  pads  are  made  of  flat  pieces 
of  wood  ; a piece  of  the  same  rises  in  front,  being  about 
the  length,  breadth,  and  thickness  of  a man’s  hand  ; an 
iron  rim,  or  a strong  wooden  one,  goes  round  on  each 
side,  forming  a circle  ; covered  with  a piece  of  skin 
stretched  and  sewed  tight  over  it.  The  saddle  is  then 
placed  on  the  camel’s  back  before  the  hump,  and  fastened 
tight  by  a rope  under  his  belly.  Thus  prepared,  we 
began  to  mount  the  sand  hills  and  to  get  up  through  the 
guiley.  We  were  forced  to  walk  and  to  drive  the  camels 
and  keep  them  together,  whilst  the  sand  was  so  soft  and 
yielding,  that  we  sunk  into  it  every  step  nearly  to  our 
knees.  The  blazing  heat  of  the  sun’s  rays ‘darting  on  our 
naked  bodies,  and  reflected  from  the  sand  we  waded 
through  ; the  sharp  pointed  craggy  rocks  and  stones  that 
cut  our  feet  and  legs  to  the  bone,  in  addition  to  our  ex- 
cessive weakness,  which  the  dysentary  had  increased,  ren- 
dered our  passage  up  through  this  chasm  or  hollow  much 
more  severe  than  any  thing  of  the  kind  we  had  before 
undergone,  and  nearly  deprived  us  of  life.  For  my  own 
part,  i thought  I must  have  died  before  I could  reach 
the  summit,  and  was  obliged  to  stop  in  the  sand,  until 
by  the  application  of  a stick  to  my  sore  back  by  our 
drivers,  I was  forced  up  to  its  level ; and  there  they. made 
the  camels  lie  down  and  rest. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA 


67 


CHAPTER  VIIL 

The  author  and  his  crew  are  carried  on  camels  into  the 
interior  of  the  Desert  of  Zahahrah — The  Arabs  hold  a 
council — ■ The  crew  are  sold  and  distributed — The  au- 
thor’’s remarkable  dream — The  skin  and  fiesh  are  lite- 
rally  roasted  off  from  his  body  and  from  the  bones  of 
his  companions — Their  dreadfid  sufferings  while  naked 
and  wandering  about  the  desert  with  their  masters,  sub- 
sisting only  on  a little  camel’s  milk— Two  Arab  traders 
arrive . 

The  Arabs  had  been  much  amused  in  observing  our 
difficulty  in  ascending  the  height,  and  kept  up  a laugh 
while  they  were  whipping  us  forward.  Their  women 
and  children  were  on  foot  as  well  as  themselves,  and  went 
up  without  .the  smallest  difficulty  or  inconvenience, 
though  it  was  extremely  hard  for  the  camels  to  mount, 
and  before  they  got  to  the  top  they  were  covered  with 
sweat  and  froth.  Having  now  selected  five  camels  for 
the  purpose,  -one  for  each  of  us,  they  put  us  on  behind 
the  humps,  to  which  we  were  obliged  to  cling  by  grasp- 
ing its  long  hair  with  both  hands.  The  back  bone  of 
the  one  I was  set  on  was  only  covered  with  skin,  and  as 
sharp  as  the  edge  of  an  oar’s  blade  ; his  belly,  distended 
tvith  water,  made  him  perfectly  smooth,  leaving  no  pro- 
jection of  the  hips  to  keep  me  from  sliding  off  behind  ; 
and  his  back  or  rump  being  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a 
house,  and  so  broad  across  as  to  keep  my  legs  extended 
to  their  utmost  stretch,  I was  in  this  manner  slipping 
down  to  his  tail  every  moment.  I was  forced,  however, 
to  keep  on,  while  the  camel,  rendered  extremely  restive 
at  the  sight  of  his  strange  rider,  was  all  the  time  running 
about  among  the  drove,  and  making  a most  tvoful  bel- 
lowing ; and  as  they  have  neither  bridle,  halter,  or  any 
other  thing  tvhereby  to  guide  or  govern  them,  all  I had  to 
do  was  to  stick  on  as  well  as  I could. 

The  Arabs,  both  men  and  women,  were  very  anxious 
to  knoAV  where  we  had  been  thrown  on  shore,  whether  to 
thp  eastward  or  westward ; and  being  satisfied  by  me  on 


68 


CAPTAIN  RILF,V:S  NARRATIVE, 


that  point,  so  soon  as  they  had  placed  us  on  the  camels, 
and  given  the  women  directions  how  to  steer,  they  mounted 
each  his  camel,  seated  themselves  on  the  small  round 
saddle,  and  then  crossing  their  legs  on  the  animal’s  shoul- 
ders, set  off  to  the  westward  at  a great  trot,  leaving  us 
under  the  care  of  the  women,  some  of  whom  were  on 
foot,  and  urged  the  camels  forward  as  fast  as  they  could 
run,  to  the  S.  E.  The  heavy  motions  of  the  camel,  not 
unlike  that  of  a small  vessel  in  a heavy  head-beat  sea,  were 
so  violent,  aided  by  the  sharp  back  bone,  as  soon  to  ex- 
coriate certain  parts  of  my  naked  body  ; the  inside  of  my 
thighs  and  legs  were  also  dreadfully  chafed,  so  that  the 
blood  dripped  from  my  heels,  while  the  intense  heat  of 
the  sun  had  scorched  and  blistered  our  bodies  and  the 
outside  of  our  legs,  so  that  we  were  covered  with  sores, 
and  without  any  thing  to  administer  relief.  Thus  bleed- 
ing and  smarting  under  the  most  excruciating  pain,  we 
continued  to  advance  in  a S,  E.  direction,  on  a plain,  flat, 
hard  surface  of  sand,  gravel,  and  rock,  covered  with 
small  sharp  stones.  It  seemed  as  if  our  bones  would  be 
dislocated  at  every  step.  Hungry  and  thirsty,  the  night 
came  on,  and  no  indication  of  stopping  ; the  cold  night 
wind  began  to  blow,  chilling  our  blood,  which  ceased  to 
trickle  down  our  lacerated  legs  ; but  although  it  saved  our 
blood,  yet  acting  on  our  blistered  skins,  it  increased  our 
pains  beyond  description.  We  begged  to  be  permitted 
to  get  off,  but  the  women  paid  no  attention  to  our  distress 
nor  intreaties,  intent  only,  on  getting  forward.  We  de- 
signedly slipped  oft'  the  camels,  when  going  at  a full  trot, 
risking  to  break  our  necks  by  the  fall,  and  tried  to  excite 
their  compassion  and  get  a drink  of  water,  (which  they 
call  sherub,)  but  they  paid  no  attention  to  our  prayers, 
and  kept  the  camels  running  faster  than  before. 

This  was  the  first  time  I had  attempted  to  walk  bare- 
footed since  I was  a schoolboy  ; we  were  obliged  to  keep 
up  with  the  camels,  running  over  the  stones,  which  were 
nearly  as  sharp  as  gun  flints,  and  cutting  our  feet  nearly 
to  the  bone  at  every  step.  It  was  here  that  my  fortitude 
and  reason  failed  to  support  me  ; I cursed  my  fate  aloud, 
and'  wished  I had  rushed  into  the  sea  before  I gave  my- 
$elf  up  to  these  merciless  beings  in  human  forms— -it  w|ts 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


69 


now  too  late.  I would  have  put  an  immediate  end  to  my 
existence,  but  had  neither  knife  nor  any  other  weapon 
with  which  to  perform  the  deed.  I searched  for  a stone, 
intending  if  I could  find  a loose  one  sufficiently  large,  to 
knock  out  my  own  brains  with  it  ; but  searched  in  vain. 
This  paroxysm  passed  off  in  a minute  or  two,  when 
reason  returned,  and  I recollected  that  my  life  was  in  the 
hand  of  the  power  that  gave  it,  and  that  “ the  Judge  of 
all  the  earth  would  do  right.”  Then  running  with  ail  my 
remaining  might,  I soon  came  up  with  the  camels,  re- 
gardless of  my  feet  and  of  pain,  and  felt  perfectly  re- 
signed and  willing  to  submit  to  the  will  of  Providence, 
and  the  fate  that  awaited  me. 

From  that  time  forward,  through  all  mv  succeeding 
trials  and  sufferings,  I never  once  murmured  in  my  heart, 
but  at  all  times  kept  my  spirits  up,  doing  the  utmost  to 
obey  and  please  those  whom  fortune,  fate,  or  an  over- 
ruling Providence  had  placed  over  me,  and  to  persuade, 
both  by  precept  and  practice,  my  unhappy  comrades  to 
do  the  same.  I had,  with  my  companions,  cried  aloud 
with  pain,  and  begged  our  savage  drivers  for  mercy,  and 
when  we  had  ceased  to  make  a noise,  fearing,  as  it  were, 
to  lose  us  in  the  dark,  they  stopped  the  camels,  and  again 
placing  us  on  them  as  before,  drove  them  on  at  full  speed 
until  about  midnight,  when  we  entered  a small  dell  or 
valley,  excavated  by  the  hand  of  nature,  a little  below 
the  surface  of  the  desert,  about  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  deep.  Here  they  stopped  the  camels,  and  made  them 
lie  down,  bidding  us  to  do  the  same.  I judge  we  must 
have  travelled  forty  miles  this  day  to  the  S.  E.  : the  place 
was  hard  and  rocky,  not  even  sand  to  lie  on,  nor  any 
covering  to  shelter  us  or  keep  off  the  cold  damp  wind 
that  blew  strong  from  the  sea. 

They  soon  set  about  milking,  and  then  gave  us  each 
about  a pint  of  pure  milk,  warm  from  the  camels,  taking 
great  care  to  divide  it  for  us  ; it  warmed  our  stomachs, 
quenched  our  thirst  in  some  measure,  and  allayed  in  a 
small  degree  the  cravings  of  hunger.  Mr.  Savage  had 
been  separated  from  us,  and  I learned  from  him  after- 
wards that  he  fared  better  than  we  did,  having  had  a 
larger  allowance  of  milk,  Clark,  Horace,  and  JJick  the 


70 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


cook  were  still  with  me.  We  lay  down  on  the  ground 
as  close  to  each  other  as  we  could,  on  the  sharp  stones, 
without  any  lee  to  fend  off  the  wind  from  us  ; our  bodies 
all  over  blistered  and  mangled,  the  stones  piercing  through 
the  sore  naked  flesh  almost  to  the  ribs  and  other  bones. 
These  distresses,  and  our  sad  and  desponding  reflections, 
rendered  this  one  of  the  longest  and  most  dismal  nights 
ever  passed  by  any  human  beings.  We  kept  shifting 
births,  striving  to  keep  off  some  of  the  cold  during  the 
night,  while  sleep,  that  had  hitherto  relieved  our  distress- 
es  and  fatigues,  fled  from  us  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts 
and  solicitude  to  embrace  it ; nor  were  we  able  to  close 
our  eyes. 

The  morning  of  the  11th  came  on  at  last,  and  our  in- 
dustrious mistresses,  having  milked  a little  from  the  cam- 
els, and  allowed  the  young  ones  to  suck,  gave  us  about 
half  a pint  of  milk  among  four  of  us,  being  just  enough 
to  wet  our  mouths,  and  then  made  us  go  forward  on  foot 
and  drive  the  camels.  The  situation  of  our  feet  was  hor- 
rible beyond  description,  and  the  very  recollection  of  it, 
even  at  this  moment,  makes  my  nerves  thrill  and  quiver. 
We  proceeded  forward,  having  gained  the  level  desert, 
for  a considerable  time,  when  entering  a small  valley,  we 
discovered  three  or  four  tents  made  of  coarse  cloth,  near 
which  we  were  met  by  our  masters,  and  a number  of  men 
whom  we  had  not  before  seen,  all  armed  with  either  a 
double  barrelled  musket,  a scimitar,  or  dagger.  They 
were  all  of  the  same  nation  and  tribe,  for  they  shook  hands 
at  meeting,  and  seemed  very  friendly  to  each  other, 
though  they  stopped  and  examined  us,  as  if  disposed  to 
question  the  right  of  property. 

It  now  appeared  there  was  still  some  difficulty  in  de- 
ciding to  whom  each  one  of  us  belonged ; for  seizing 
hold  of  us,  some  dragged  one  way  and  some  another,  dis- 
puting very  loudly,  and  frequently  drawing  their  weapons. 
It  was,  however,  decided  at  last,  after  making  us  go  dif- 
ferent ways  for  the  space  of  two  or  three  hours  with  differ- 
ent men,  that  myself  and  the  cook  should  remain,  for 
the  present,  in  the  hands  of  our  first  master.  They  gave 
Clark  to  another,  and  Horace  to  a third.  We  had  come 
near  a couple  of  tents,  and  were  certainly  disgusting  ob- 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


71 


jects,  being  nak>d  and  almost  skinless ; this  was  some- 
time about  noon,  when  three  women  came  out  who  had 
not  before  seen  us,  and  having  satisfied  their  curiosity  by 
gazing  at  us,  they  expressed  their  disgust  and  contempt 
by  spitting  on  us  as  we  went  along,  making  their  faces 
still  more  horrid  by  every  possible  contortion  of  their 
frightful  features ; this  we  afterwards  found  to  be  their 
constant  practice  wherever  we  went,  until  after  we  got  off 
the  desert. 

Towards  evening,  a great  number  of  the  men  having 
collected  in  a little  valley'-,  we  were  made  to  stop,  and  as 
our  bodies  were  blistered  and  burnt  to  such  a degree  as 
to  excite  pity  in  the  breasts  of  some  of  the  men,  they- 
used  means  to  have  a tent  cleared  out  for  11s  to  sit  under. 
They  then  allowed  all  those  of  our  crew  present  to  sit 
under  it,  and,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  we  were  glad  to 
meet  one  another  again,  miserable  as  we  all  were.  Por- 
ter and  Burns,  who  had  been  separated  from  me  shortly 
after  our  capture,  were  still  absent.  A council  was  now 
held  by  the  natives  near  the  tent ; they  w ere  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  some  very  old,  some  middle  aged, 
and  some  quite  young.  I soon  found  they  were  Moham- 
medans, and  the  proper  names  by  which  they  frequently- 
called  each  other  were  Mohammed , Harnet , Seid,  Si - 
deullah,  Abdallah , &c.  so  that  by  these  and  the  female 
names  Fatima , Ezimah , Sarah , &c.  I knew  them  to  be 
Arabs  or  Moors. 

The  council  were  deliberating  about  us ; and  having 
talked  the  matter  over  a long  time,  seated  on  the  ground 
with  their  legs  crossed  under  them,  in  circles  of  from  ten 
to  twenty  each,  they  afterwards  arose  and  came  to  us. 
One  of  the  old  men  then  addressed  me  ; he  seemed  to  be 
very  intelligent,  and  though  he  spoke  a language  I was 
unacquainted  with,  yet  he  explained  himself  in  such  a 
plain  and  distinct  manner,  sounding  every  letter  full  like 
the  Spaniards,  that  with  the  help  of  signs  i was  able  to 
understand  his  meaning.  He  wanted  to  know  what  coun- 
try we  belonged  to ; I told  him  we  were  English  ; and 
as  I perceived  the  Spanish  language  was  in  sound  more 
like  that  which  they  spoke  than  any  other  I knew,  I used 
the  phraze  Inglesis  ; this  seemed  to  please  him,  and  he 


72 


CAPTMN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


said  “ O Fransah,  O Spaniah meaning,  u or  French 
men,  or  Spaniards I repeated  we  were  English.  He  i 
nex,  wanted  to  know  which  point  of  the  horizon  weeamt 
from,  and  I pointed  to  the  north. 

They  had  seen  our  boat,  which  they  called  Zooerga, 
and  wanted  to  know  if  we  had  come  all  the  way  in  that 
boat : I told  them  no,  and  making  a kind  of  coast,  by 
heaping  up  sand,  and  forming  the  shape  of  a vessel,  into 
which  I stuck  sticks  for  masts  and  bowsprit,  &.c.  I gave 
him  to  understand  that  we  had  been  in  a large  vessel,  and 
wrecked  on  the  coast  by  a strong  wind  ; then  by  tearing 
down  the  masts  and  covering  the  vessel’s  form  with  sand, 
I signified  to  him  that  she  was  totally  lost.  Thirty  or 
forty  of  the  other  Arabs  were  sitting  around  us,  paying! 
the  strictest  attention  to  every  one  .of  my  words  and  ges- 
tures, and  assisting  the  old  man  to  comprehend  me.  He 
wished  to  know  where  we  were  going,  and  what  cargo 
the  vessel  (which  I now  found  they  called  Sfenah)  had 
on  board.  I satisfied  them  in  the  best  way  I could  on 
this  point,  telling  them  that  I had  on  board,  among  other 
things,  dollars  : they  wanted  to  know  how  many,  and 
gave  me  a bowl  to  imitate  the  measure  of  them  ; this  I 
did  by  filling  it  with  stones  and  emptying  it  three  times.  ! 
They  were  much  surprised  at  the  quantity,  and  seemed 
to  be  dissatisfied  that  they  had  not  got  a share  of  them. 
They  then  wanted  to  know  which  way  the  vessel  lay  from 
us,  and  if  we  had  seen  any  of  the  natives,  whom  they 
called  Moslemin. 

This  1 took  to  be  what  we  call  Mussulmen,  or  followers 
of  the  Mohammedan  doctrine,  and  in  this  I was  not  mis- 
taken. I then  explained  to  them  in  what  manner  we  had 
been  treated  by  the  inhabitants  ; that  they  had  got  all  our 
clothing,  except  what  we  had  on  when  they  found  us  ; 
all  our  money  and  provisions ; massacred  one  of  our  num- 
ber, and  drove  us  out  to  sea.  They  then  told  me  that 
they  heard  of  the  shipwreck  of  a vessel  a great  way  north, 
and  of  the  money,  &c.  but  that  the  crew  were  drowned 
in  el  M Bahar  ; this  was  so  near  the  Spanish  (La  Mar) 
for  the  sea,  that  I could  not  misunderstand  it.  Thus 
having  obtained  what  information  they  wanted  on  those 
points,  they  next  desired  to  know  if  1 knew  any  thing 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


73 


. about  Marocksh  ; this  sounded  something  like  Morocco  : 
I answered  yes;  next  of  the  Sooltaan , (the  Sultan,)  to 

i which  instead  of  saying  yes,  I made  signs  of  assent,  for 
I found  they  did  no  more  themselves,  except  by  a cluck 
with  the  tongue. 

They  wanted  me  to  tell  his  name,  Soo  Mook , but  I 
could  not  understand  them  until  they  mentioned  Moolay 
Solimaan ; this  I remembered  to  be  the  name  of  the 
f present  emperor  of  Morocco,  as  pronounced  in  Spanish, 
nearly.  I gave  them  to  understand  that  1 knew  him  ; had 
seen  him  with  my  eyes,  and  that  he  was  a friend  to  me 
and  to  my  nation.  They  next  made  me  point  out  the 
1 direction  towards  his  dominions,  and  having  satisfied  them 
? that  I knew  which  way  his  dominions  lay  from  us,  I tried 
to  intimate  to  them,  that  if  they  would  carry  me  there,  I 
c should  be  able  to  pay  them  for  my  ransom,  and  that  of 
my  crew.  They  shook  their  heads ; it  was  a great  dis- 
tance, and  nothing  lor  camels  to  eat  or  drink  on  the  way. 

1 My  shipmates,  who  were  with  me,  could  not  understand 
one  syllable  of  what  they  said,  or  of  their  signs,  and  did 
not  believe  that  I was  able  to  communicate  at  all  with 
them.  Having  finished  their  council,  and  talked  the  mat- 
ter  over  among  themselves,  they  separated,  and  our  mas- 
ters, taking  each  his  slave,  made  off,  every  one  his  own 
way.  Although  from  the  conference  I derived  hopes  of 
our  getting  ransomed,  and  imparted  the  same  to  my  mates 
and  crew,  yet  they  all  seemed  to  think  1 was  deluding 
them  with  false  expectations ; nor  could  I convince  them 
of  the  contrary.  We  took  anotlier  leave  of  each  other, 
when  we  parted  for  the  night,  having  travelled  this  day,  I 
should  guess,  about  fifteen  miles  S.  £. 

I had  been  so  fully  occupied  since  noon,  that  no  thoughts 
of  victuals  or  drink  had  occurred  to  my  mind.  We  had 
none  of  us  ate  or  drank  any  thing  this  day,  except  about 
half  a gill  of  milk  each  in  the  morning  at  daylight,  and 
about  half  a pint  of  black  beach  water  near  the  middle  of 
the  day.  I was  delivered  over  to  an  Arab  named  Bickri , 
and  went  with  him  near  his  tent,  where  he  made  me  lie 
down  on  the  ground  like  a camel.  Near  midnight  he 
brought  me  a bowl  containing  about  a quart  of  milk  and 
water ; its  taste  was  delicious,  and  as  my  stomach  had 

10 


74 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


become  contracted  by  long  hunger  and  thirst,  I consider, 
ed  it  quite  a plentiful  draught.  I had  been  shivering  with 
cold  for  a long  time,  as  I had  no  covering  nor  skreen,  and 
not  even  one  of  my  shipmates  to  lie  near  me  to  keep  one 
side  warm  at  a time.  I was  so  far  exhausted  by  fatigues, 
privations,  &c.  that  my  misery  could  no  longer  keep  me 
awake.  I sank  into  a deep  sleep,  and  during  this  sleep 
I was  troubled  in  the  first  place  with  the  most  frightful 
dreams. 

I thought  I was  naked  and  a slave,  and  dreamed  over 
the  principal  incidents  which  had  already  actually  passed. 
I then  thought  I was  driven  by  Arabs  with  redhot  iron 
spears  pointed  at  me  on  every  side,  through  the  most 
dreadful  fire  I had  ever  imagined,  for  near  a mile,  naked 
and  barefoot ; the  flames  up  to  my  eyes,  scorched  every 
part  of  my  skin  off,  and  wasted  away  my  flesh  by  roast- 
ing, burning,  and  drying  it  off  to  the  bones  ; my  torments 
were  inconceivable.  I now  thought  I looked  up  towards 
heaven,  and  prayed  to  the  Almighty  to  receive  my  spirit, 
and  end  my  sufferings ; I was  still  in  the  midst  of  the 
flames ; a bright  spot  like  an  eye  with  rays  around  it,  ap- 
peared above  me  in  the  firmament,  with  a point  below  it, 
reaching  towards  the  N.  E. — I thought  if  I went  that  way 
I should  go  right,  and  turned  from  the  S.  to  the  N.  E. ; 
the  fire  soon  subsided  and  I went  on,  still  urged  by  them 
about  me,  with  their  spears  pricking  me  from  time  to  time, 
over  high  sand  hills  and  rocky  steeps,  my  flesh  dropping 
off  in  pieces  as  I went ; then  descending  a deep  valley,  I 
thought  I saw  green  trees— -flowering  shrubs  in  blossom — 
cows  feeding  on  green  grass,  with  horses,  sheep,  and  asses 
near  me ; and  as  I moved  on,  I discovered  a brook  of 
clear  running  water  : my  thirst  being  excessive,  I dragged 
my  mangled  limbs  to  the  brook,  threw  myself  down,  and 
drank  my  fill  of  the  most  delicious  water.  When  my  thirst 
was  quenched,  I rolled  in  the  brook  to  cool  my  body,  which 
seemed  still  consuming  with  heat ; then  thanked  my  God 
In  my  heart  for  his  mercies. 

My  masters,  in  the  mean  time,  kept  hurrying  me  on  in 
the  way  pointed  out  by  the  All-seeing  eye,  which  was 
still  visible  in  the  heavens  above  my  head,  through  crook- 
ed, thorny,  and  narrow  paths— over  high  mountains  and 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


75 


deep  valleys — past  hosts  of  armed  men  on  horseback  and 

Ion  foot,  and  walled  cities,  until  we  met  a tall  young  man 
dressed  in  the  European  and  American  manner,  by  the 
:side  of  a brook,  riding  on  a stately  horse,  who  upon 
1 seeing  me  aiighted,  and  rushing  forward,  wild  with  joy, 
raj  caught  me  in  his  arms,  and  pressed  me  to  his  breast,  call- 
ing me  by  the  endearing  name  of  brother,  in  my  own  lan- 
. guage — I thought  I fainted  in  his  arms  from  excess  of  joy, 
and  when  I revived,  found  myself  in  a neat  room,  with  a 
table  set  in  the  best  manner  before  me,  covered  with  the 
choicest  meats,  fruits,  and  wines,  and  my  deliverer  press- 
ing me  to  eat  and  drink  ; but  finding  me  too  much  over- 
j come  to  partake  of  this  refreshment,  he  said,  “ take  cour- 
3 age,  my  dear  friend,  God  has  decreed  that  you  shall  again 
embrace  your  beloved  wife  and  children.”  At  this  in- 
stant I was  called  by  my  master— I awoke,  and  found  it 
was  a dream. 

Being  daylight,  (Sept.  12th)  he  ordered  me  to  drive 
forward  the  camels  ; this  I did  for  about  an  hour,  but  my 
feet  were  so  much  swelled,  being  lacerated  by  the  cutting 
of  the  stones,  which  seemed  as  if  they  would  penetrate  to 
my  heart  at  every  step — -I  could  not  help  stooping  and 
crouching  down  nearly  to  the  ground.  In  this  situation, 
my  first  master  Hamet  observed  me  ; he  was  going  on 
the  same  course,  S.  E.  riding  on  his  camel ; he  came  near 
my  present  master,  and  after  talking  with  him  a good 
while,  he  took  off  the  blanket  from  his  back  and  gave  it 
to  Bickri — then  coming  close  to  me,  made  signs  for  me 
to  stop.  He  next  made  his  camel  lie  down  ; then  fixing 
a piece  of  skin  over  his  back  behind  the  saddle,  and  mak  - 
ing  its  two  ends  fast  to  the  girths  to  keep  it  from  slipping 
off,  he  bade  me  mount  on  it,  while  he  got  on  his  saddle 
and  steadied  me  with  his  hand  until  the  camel  rose.  He 
then  went  on  the  same  course  as  before,  in  company  with 
three  or  four  other  men,  well  armed  and  mounted.  The 
sun  beat  dreadfully  hot  upon  my  bare  head  and  body,  and 
it  appeared  to  me  that  my  head  must  soon  split  to  pieces, 
as  it  was  racking  and  cracking  with  excruciating  pain. 
Though  in  this  horrible  distress,  yet  I still  thought  of  my 
dream  of  the  last  night — “ a drowning  man  will  catch  at  a 
straw,”  says  the  proverb,  and  I can  verily  add,  that  the 


76 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


very  faintest  gleam  of  hope  will  keep  alive  the  declining 
spirits  of  a man  in  the  deepest  distress  and  misery  ; for ! 
from  the  moment  I began  to  reflect  on  what  had  passed 
through  my  mind  when  sleeping,  I felt  convinced  that 
though  this  was  nothing  more  than  a dream,  yet  still  re- 
membering  how  narrowly  and  often  I had  escaped  imme- 
diate apparent  death,  and  believing  it  was  through  the  pe- 
culiar interposition  of  Divine  Providence,  I could  not  but 
believe  that  the  All-seeing  eye  was  watching  over  my  steps, 
and  would  in  due  time  conduct  me  by  his  unerring  wis- 
dom, into  paths  that  would  lead  to  my  deliverance,  and 
restoration  to  my  family. 

I was  never  superstitious,  nor  ever  did  I believe  ill 
dreams  or  visions,  as  they  are  termed,  or  even  remember- 
ed them,  so  as  to  relate  any  I may  have  had  ; but  this 
dream  made  such  an  impression  on  my  mind,  that  it  was  not 
possible  for  me  to  remove  it  from  my  memory — being  now 
as  fresh  as  at  the  moment  I awoke  after  dreaming  it,  and 
1 must  add,  that  when  I afterwards  saw  Mr.  Wiltshire,  I 
knew  him  to  be  the  same  man  I had  seen  in  my  sleep  : he 
had  a particular  mark  on  his  chin — wore  a light  coloured 
frock  coat,  had  on  a white  hat,  and  rode  the  same  horse. 
From  that  time  I thought  if  I could  once  get  to  the  em- 
pire of  Morocco,  I should  be  sure  to  find  a friend  to  re- 
lieve me  and  my  companions,  whose  heart  was  already 
prepared  for  it  by  superior  Power.  My  mind  was  thus 
employed  until  we  came  to  a little  valley  where  half  a 
dozen  tents  were  pitched  ; as  soon  as  we  saw  them,  Hamet 
made  his  camel  kneel  down,  and  me  to  dismount : he  was 
met  by  several  women  and  children,  who  seemed  very 
glad  to  see  him,'  and  I soon  found  that  they  were  his  re- 
lations. He  beckoned  me  to  come  towards  his  tent,  for 
he  lived  there  apparently  with  his  mother,  and  brothers 
and  sisters,  but  the  woman  and  girls  would  not  suffer  me 
to  approach  them,  driving  me  off  with  sticks,  and  throw- 
ing stones  at  me  ; but  Hamet  brought  me  a little  sour 
milk  and  water  in  a bowl,  which  refreshed  me  consider- 
ably. 

It  was  about  two  o’clock  in  the  day,  and  I was  forced 
to  re  ain  broiling  in  the  sun  without  either  tree,  shrub,  or 
any  other  shade  to  shield  me  from  its  scorching  rays,  until 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA; 


77 


* night,  when  Dick  (the  cook)  came  in  with  the  camels, 
i Hamet  had  kept  Dick  from  the  beginning,  and  made  him 
i drive  the  camels,  but  allowed  him  to  sleep  in  one  corner  of 
the  tent,  and  gave  him  for  the  few  first  days,  as  much 
milk  as  he  could  drink,  once  a day ; and  as  he  was  a do- 
: mestic  slave,  he  managed  to  steal  water,  and  sometimes 
: sour  milk  when  he  was  dry. 

In  the  evening  of  this  day  I was  joined  by  Hogan,  and 
now  found  that  he  and  myself  had  been  purchased  by 
Hamet  that  day,  and  that  Horace  belonged  to  an  ill-looking 
, old  man,  whose  tent  was  pitched  in  company.  This  old 
villain  came  near  me,  and  saluted  me  by  the  name  of  Rais, 
asking  me  the  name  of  his  boy,  (Horace) ; I told  him  it 
was  Horace,  which  after  repeating  a few  times  he  learned 
so  perfectly,  that  at  every  instant  he  was  yelling  out 
“ Hoh  Rais ” for  something  or  other.  Hamet  was  of  a 
much  lighter  colour  than  the  other  Arabs  we  were  with, 
and  I thought  he  was  less  cruel,  but  in  this  respect  1 
found  I was  mistaken,  for  he  made  myself  and  Hogan  iie 
on  the  ground  in  a place  he  chose,  where  the  stones  were 
very  thick  and  baked  into  the  ground  so  tight  that  we 
could  not  pull  them  out  with  our  fingers,  and  we  were 
forced  to  lie  on  their  sharp  points,  though  at  a small  dis- 
tance, not  more  than  fifty  yards,  was  a spot  of  sand.  This 
I made  him  understand,  pointing  at  the  same  time  to  my 
skinless  flesh,  but  he  signified  to  us  that  if  we  did  not 
remain  where  he  had  ordered,  we  should  get  no  milk 
when  he  milked  the  camels.  I calculate  we  travelled  this 
day  about  thirty  miles. 

Here  then  w7e  staid,  but  not  to  sleep,  until  about  the 
midnight  hour,  when  Hamet  came  to  us  with  our  milk  ; 
it  was  pure  and  warm  from  the  camels,  and  about  a pint 
for  each.  The  wind  hlew  as  is  usual  in  the  night,  and 
on  that  part  of  the  desert  the  air  was  extremely  cold  and 
damp  ; but  its  moisture  on  our  bodies  was  as  salt  as  the 
ocean.  Having  received  our  share  of  milk,  when  all  was 
i;  still  in  the  tent,  we  stole  to  the  sandy  place,  where  we  get 
a little  sleep  during  the  remaining  part  of  the  night, 
Horace’s  master  would  not  permit  him  to  come  near  mo, 
nor  pie  to  approach  him,  making  use  of  a stick,  as  well. 


78 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


to  enforce  his  commands  in  this  particular,  as  to  teach  us 
to  understand  him  in  other  respects. 

At  daylight  (Sept.  13th)  we  were  called  on  to  proceed. ! 
The  families  struck  their  tents,  and  packed  them  on  cam- 
els, together  with  all  their  stuff.  They  made  us  walk 
and  keep  up  with  the  camels,  though  we  were  so  stiff  and 
sore  all  over  that  we  could  scarcely  refrain  from  crying  out 
at  every  step  : such  tvas  our  agony ; still  pursuing  our 
route  to  the  S.  E.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  I saw 
Mr.  Williams  ; he  was  mounted  on  a camel,  as  we  had  all 
been  the  first  day,  and  had  been  riding  with  the  drove  j 
about  three  hours  : I hobbled  along  towards  him ; his 
camel  stopped,  and  I was  enabled  to  take  him  by  the  : 
hand.  He  was  still  entirely  naked ; his  skin  had  been 
burned  off ; his  whole  body  was  so  excessively  inflamed 
and  swelled,  as  well  as  his  face,  that  I only  knew  him  by 
his  voice,  which  was  very  feeble.  He  told  me  he  had  been 
obliged  to  sleep  naked  in  the  open  air  every  night ; that  his 
life  was  fast  wasting  away  amidst  the  most  dreadful  tor- 
ments ; that  he  could  not  live  one  day  more  in  such  mis- 
ery ; that  his  mistress  had  taken  pity  on  him,  and  anointed 
his  body  that  morning  with  butter  or  grease  ; but,  said 
he,  “ I cannot  live should  you  ever  get  clear  from  this 
dreadful  place,  and  be  restored  to  your  country,  tell  my 
dear  wife  that  my  last  breath  was  spent  in  prayers  for  her 
happiness.  He  could  say  no  more  ; tears  and  sobs  choked 
his  utterance. 

His  master  arrived  at  this  time,  and  drove  on  his  camel, 
and  I could  only  say  to  him,  “ God  Almighty  bless  you,”  J 
as  I took  a last  look  at  him,  and  forgot,  for  a moment,  1 
while  contemplating  his  extreme  distress,  my  own  misery,  i 
His  camel  was  large,  and  moved  forward  with  very  heavy 
motions ; as  he  went  from  me,  I could  see  the  inside  of 
his  legs  and  thighs — they  hung  in  strings  of  torn  and  , 
chafed  flesh — the  blood  was  trickling  down  the  sides  of  the 
camel,  and  off  his  feet.  “My  God!”  I cried,  “suffer 
us  not  to  live  longer  in  such  tortures.” 

I had  stopped  about  fifteen  minutes,  and  my  master’s 
camels  had  gained  a great  distance  from  me,  so  that  I was 
obliged  to  run  that  I might  come  up  with  them.  My 
mind  was  so  shocked  with  the  distresses  of  Mr.  Williams, 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA: 


79 


: that  I thought  it  would  be  impious  for  me  to  complain, 
though  the  sharp  stones  continued  to  enter  my  sore  feet  at 
1,  every  step.  My  master  saw  me  and  stopped  the  drove  for 
ii.  me  to  come  up  ; when  I got  near  him  he  threatened  me, 
t shaking  his  stick  over  my  head,  to  let  me  know  what  I 
i had  to  expect  if  I dared  to  commit  another  fault.  He 
it  then  rode  off,  ordering  me  and  Hogan  to  drive  the  camels 
mt  on  as  fast  as  we  could.  About  an  hour  afterwards  he 
iv  came  near  us,  and  beckoned  to  me  to  come  to  him,  which 
ill  I did.  A tall  old  man,  nearly  as  black  as  a negro,  one  of 
e the  most  ill-looking  and  disgusting  I had  yet  seen,  soon 
lis  joined  my  master,  with  two  young  men,  whom  I found 
lie  afterwards  were  his  sons  : they  were  also  joined  by  a num- 
:n  ber  more  on  camels  and  well  armed, 
i After  some  time  bartering  about  me,  I was  given  to 
> the  old  man,  whose  features  showed  every  sign  of  the 
i deepest  rooted  malignity  in  his  disposition.  And  is  this 
' my  master  ? thought  I ; Great  God ! defend  me  from  his 
cruelty ! He  began  to  go  on  : he  was  on  foot ; so  were 
his  two  sons;  but  they  walked  faster  than  camels,  and 
J the  old  man  kept  snarling  at  me  in  the  most  surly  manner, 

! to  make  me  keep  up.  i tried  my  very  best,  as  I was 
i extremely  anxious  to  please  him,  if  such  a thing  was  pos- 
sible, knowing  the  old  adage  of  “ the  devil  is  good  when 
f he  is  pleased,”  was  correct,  when  applied  to  human  be- 
1 ings ; but  I could  not  go  fast  enough  tor  him  ; so  after  he 
had  growled  and  kept  on  a considerable  time,  finding  I 
could  not  keep  up  with  him,  he  came  behind  me  and 
thrust  me  forward  with  hard  blows  repeatedly  applied  to 
my  exposed  back,  with  a stout  stick  he  had  in  his  hand. 
Smarting  and  staggering  under  my  wounds,  I made  the 
greatest  efforts  to  get  on,  but  one  of  his  still  more  inhu- 
man sons,  (as  I then  thought  him,)  gave  me  a double 
barrelled  gun  to  carry,  with  his  powder  horn  and  other 
accoutre  men's  : they  felt  very  heavy,  yet  after  I had  taken 
them,  the  old  man  did  not  again  strike  me,  but  went  on 
towards  the  place  where  he  meant  to  pitch  his  tent,  leaving 
me  to  follow  on  as  well  as  I could. 

The  face  of  the  desert  now  appeared  as  smooth  as  the 
surface  of  the  ocean,  when  unruffled  by  winds  or  tempests 
Camels  could  be  seen  on  every  direction,  as  soon  as  the> 


so 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE* 


came  above  the  horizon,  so  that  there  was  no  difficulty  u 
knowing  which  way  to  go,  and  I took  care  to  keep  sigh 
of  my  new  master’s  drove,  until  1 reached  the  valley,  ir 
which  he  had  pitched  his  tent.  I was  broiling  under  the 
sun  and  tugging  along,  with  my  load,  which  weighed  me 
down  to  the  earth,  and  should  have  lain  down  despairing, 
had  I not  seen  Mr.  Williams  in  a still  worse  plight  thar 
myself. 

Having  come  near  the  tent  about  four  P.  M.  they  took 
the  load  from  me,  and  bid  me  lie  down  in  the  shade  oil 
the  tent.  1 then  begged  for  water,  but  could  get  none. 
The  time  now  came  on  for  prayers,  and  after  the  old  mar 
and  his  sons  had  performed  this  ceremony  very  devoutly, 
they  went  away.  I was  in  so  much  pain,  I could  scarcely 
contain  myself,  and  my  thirst  was  more  painful  than  if 
had  yet  been.  I tried  to  soften  the  hearts  of  the  women  to 
get  me  a little  water,  but  they  only  laughed  and  spit  at  me 
and  to  increase  my  distresses  as  much  as  they  could,  drove 
me  away  from  the  shade  of  the  tent,  so  that  I was  forced 
to  remain  in  the  scorching  sun  for  the  remainder  of  this 
long  day. 

A little  after  sunset  my  old  and  young  masters  returned? 
they  were  joined  by  all  the  men  that  were  near,  to  the 
number  of  from  twenty  to  thirty,  and  went  through  their 
religious  ceremonies  in  a very  solemn  manner,  in  which 
the  women  and  little  children  did  not  join  them.  Soon 
after  this  was  over,  Clark  came  in  with  the  camels  and 
joined  me;  it  would  have  been  pleasant  to  be  together,' 
but  his  situation  was  such  that  it  made  my  heart  ache  still 
worse  than  it  did  before ; he  was  nearly  without  a skin ; 
every  part  of  his  body  exposed  ; his  flesh  excessively 
mangled,  burnt,  and  inflamed.  “ I am  glad  to  see  you 
once  more,  sir,”  said  Clark,  “ for  I cannot  live  through 
the  approaching  night,  and  now  beg  of  you,  if  you  ever) 
get  to  our  country  again,  to  tell  my  brothers  and  sisters  j 
how  I perished.”  I comforted  him  all  1 could,  and  as 
sured  him  he  would  not  die  immediately  ; that  the  nourish- 
ment we  now  had,  though  very  little,  was  sufficient  to 
keep  us  alive  for  a considerable  time,  and  that  though  our 
skins  were  roasted  off  and  our  flesh  inflamed,  we  were 
vet  alive  without  any  signs  of  putrefaction  on  our  bodies ; 


BUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


81 


that  I had  great  hopes  we  should  all  be  carried  in  a few 
days  from  this  desert  to  where  we  might:  get  some  food 
to  nourish  us,  and  as  I had  learned  a little  of  the  lan- 
guage of  these  people,  (or  savages,)  I would  keep  trying 
to  persuade  them  that  if  they  would  carry  us  up  to  the 
Moorish  dominions,  I should  be  able  to  pay  them  a great 
ransom  for  all  the  crew  ; for  an  old  man  had  told  me  that 
is  soon  as  it  should  rain  they  would  journey  to  the  N.  E* 
ind  sell  us. 

The  night  came  on  ; cold  damp  winds  succeeded  to 
;he  heat  of  the  day,  and  I begged  of  my  old  master  to  be 
permitted  to  go  under  the  corner  of  his  tent,  (for  it  was 
i large  one,)  and  he  seemed  willing,  pointing  out  a place 
for  us  to  lie  down  in,  but  the  women  would  not  consent, 
md  we  remained  outside  until  the  men  had  milked  the 
lamels.  They  then  gave  us  a good  drink  of  milk,  near 

Ii  quart  each,  and  after  the  women  were  asleep,  one  of  my 
mung  masters,  named  Omai'>  (the  same  that  made  me 
:arry  his  gun  the  preceding  day  to  keep  his  father  from 
leating  me,)  took  pity  on  our  distresses,  and  came  and 
nade  us  creep  under  one  corner  of  the  tent,  without 
vaking  the  women,  where  some  soft  sand  served  us  for  a 
>ed,  and  the  tent  kept  off  the  cold  air  from  us  ; and  here 
ve  slept  soundly  until  morning.  As  soon  as  the  women 
.woke,  and  found  us  under  the  tent,  they  were  for  thrust- 
ng  us  out  with  blows,  but  I pretended  to  be  asleep,  and 
he  old  man  looking  on  us,  seemed  somewhat  concerned, 
earing  (as  I thought)  he  might  lose  his  property.  He 
old  his  women  to  let  us  alone,  and  as  he  was  absolute, 
hey  were  forced  to  obey  him,  though  with  every  appear- 
j.ncfc  of  reluctance. 

| After  they  had  milked  die  camels,  and  taken  a drink 
|hef$selves,  they  gave  us  what  remained,  that  is  to  say, 
leaiia  pint  between  us.  The)'  did  not  move  forward  this 
layf 1 %nd  suffered  us  to  remain  under  the  corner  of  the 
ent  in  the  shade  all  the  while,  and  the  next  night,  and 
veij  gave  us  a piece  of  a skin  to  cover  us  with  in  part, 
nd  keep  off  the  night  wind.  They  gave  us  a good 
Irink  of  milk  when  they  drank  themselves  on  the  ; .cond 
light,  and  Omar  had  given  us  about  a pint  of  warn,  each. 
In  ’the  middle  of  the  day  ; so  that  the  inflammation 


82 


CAPTAIN  RILEV’S  NARRATIVE. 


seemed  to  have  subsided  in  a great  degree  from  our  ties 
and  feet. 

This  attention,  together  with  the  two  good  nights’  rest 
revived  us  very  much — these  were  the  14th  and  15th  day 
of  September.  I had  not  seen  any  of  my  unfortunat 
shipmates  except  Clark,  and  did  not  know  where  the 
were  during  the  clay  we  remained  still.  The  camels  wer 
driven  off  early  in  the  morning  by  a negro  slave  and  tw 
of  the  small  boys,  and  did  not  return  until  in  the  night— 
they  went  out  to  the  east  to  find  shrubs  for  them  to  feet 
on.  Clark  was  obliged,  near  night,  to  go  out  and  pu 
up  some  dry  thorn  bush  shrubs  and  roots  to  make  a fir 
with.  At  the  return  of  the  camels,  the  negro  slave  (wh 
was  a stout  fellow,  named  Boireck)  seated  himself  by  tb 
fire,  stretching  out  his  legs  on  each  side  of  it,  and  seein 
us  under  the  tent,  thought  to  drive  us  out  ; but  as  h 
was  not  permitted  by  our  old  master,  he  contented  him 
self  by  pointing  at  us  and  making  comparisons  : the 
sneeringly  addressing  me  by  the  name  of  Rais,  or  chie: 
would  set  up  a loud  laugh,  which,  with  the  waggery  h 
displayed  in  his  remarks  on  us,  kept  the  whole  famil 
and  several  strangers  who  had  assembled  on  the  occasior 
in  a constant  roar  of  laughter  until  midnight,  the  hour  fc 
milking  the  camels.  He  would  poke  our  sore  flesh  wit 
a sharp  stick,  to  make  sport,  and  show  the  Arabs  wh; 
miserable  beings  we  were,  who  could  not  even  bear  th 
rays  of  the  sun  (the  image  of  God,  as  they  term  it)  t 
shine  upon  us. 

Being  tormented  in  this  manner,  my  companion  Clar' 
could  scarcely  contain  his  wrath  : It  was  bad  enougl 

(he  said,)  to  be  reduced  to  slavery  by  the  savage  Ar|bs 
to  be  stripped,  and  skinned  alive,  and  mangled,  witnoi: 
being  obliged  to  bear  the  scoffs  and  derision  of  a d-*y- 
negro  slave.”  I told  him  I was  very  glad  to  find  hb>sti 
had  so  much  spirits  left,  and  could  feel  as  if  he  tffthe^ 
to  revenge  an  insult — it  proved  to  me  that  he  felt  Jbette 
than  he  did  the  preceding  night,  and  as  I was  so  njuc 
relieved  myself,  my  hopes  of  being  able  to  endure  ou 
tortures  and  privations  increased,  adding,  “ let  the  negr 
laugh  if  he  can  take  any  pleasure  in  it  ; I am  willing,  h 
should  do  so,  even  at  myr  expense : he  is  a poor  slav 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


iimself,  naked  and  destitute,  far  from  his  family  and 
riends,  and  is  only  trying  to  gain  the  favour  of  his  mas- 
ers and  mistresses,  by  making  sport  of  us,  whom  he 
Considers  as  much  inferior  to  him  as  he  is  to  them.’ 
Idark,  however,  could  not  be  reconciled  to  this  mode  of 
nockery  and  sport ; but  the  negro  kept  it  up  as  long  as 
! ye  remained  with  his  master,  every  night,  and  always  had 
nany  spectators  to  admire  his  wit,  and  laugh  at  his  tricks 
' tnd  buffoonery.  This  reminded  me  of  the  story  of  Sam- 
son, when  the  Philistines  wished  to  make  sport  with  him  ; 
le  was  blind,  and  they  supposed  him  harmless ; but  lie 
jecame  so  indignant,  that  he  was  willing  to  suffer  death 
o be  revenged  of  them  ; the  difference  was,  he  had 
jitrength  to  execute  his  will, — we  had  not. 

From  the  15th  to  the  18  th,  we  journeyed  everyday  to 
he  S.  E.  about  thirty  miles  a day,  merely  to  find  a few 
;hrubs  in  the  small  scattered  valleys  for  the  camels,  and 
consequently  for  the  inhabitants  to  subsist  on.  As  we 
vent  on  in  that  direction,  the  valleys  became  less  frequent 
ind  very  shallow ; the  few  thorn  bushes  they  produced 
vere  very  dry,  and  no  other  shrubs  to  be  found  ; the 
:amels  could  not  fill  their  stomachs  with  the  leaves  and 
shrubs,  nor  with  all  that  they  could  crop  off,  though 
hey  pulled  away  the  branches  as  thick  as  a man’s  finger. 
The  milk  began  to  fail,  and  consequently  we  had  to  be 
scanted,  so  that  our  allowance  was  reduced  to  half  a pint 
t day,  and  as  all  the  water  they  had  taken  from  the  well 
vas  expended,  they  could  give  us  no  more  of  that  pre- 
cious article.  There  were  belonging  to  this  tribe  four 
nares  that  were  the  general  property  ; they  were  clean 
imbed,  and  very  lean  ; they  fed  them  on  milk  every 
day,  and  every  one  took  his  turn  in  giving  them  as  much 
water  every  two  days  as  they  would  drink.  These  mares 
frank  up  the  last  of  our  water  on  the  19th,  nor  would  my 
; naster  allow  me  to  drink  what  little  was  left  in  the  bowk 
lot  exceeding  half  a pint,  and  it  was  poured  out  as  a 
t Irink  offering  before  the  Lord,  while  they  prayed  for  rain, 

' which  indeed  they  had  reason  to  expect,  as  the  season 
hey  knew  was  approaching,  when  some  rain  generally 

Iiappens.  I supposed  our  distance  from  the  sea,  or  the 
veil  that  we  ha.d  left,  to  be  three  hundred  miles  in  a direct 

|r  " ' • 


84 


■CAPTAIN"  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


line,  and  feared  very  much  that  we  should  not  find  wate 
at  any  other  place.  The  sustenance  we  received  was  jus 
sufficient  to  keep  the  breath  of  life  in  us,  but  our  fles  a 
was  less  inflamed  than  in  the  first  days,  for  we  had  con 
tinned  to  lie  under  a part  of  the  tent  at  night,  and  also  i 
the  day-time  when  it  was  pitched,  which  was  generally 
the  case  about  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  We  had 
however,  become  so  emaciated,  that  we  could  scarce! 
stand,  and  they  did  not  attempt  to  make  me  nor  Clark  dc 
any  kind  of  work,  except  gather  a few  dry  sticks,  to 
wards  evening,  to  light  a fire.  The  swellings  had  alsf; 
gone  down  in  some  measure  from  our  feet,  as  there  wa: 
not  substance  enough  in  us  to  keep  up  a running  sore 
all  the  moisture  in  them  seemed  to  dry  away,  and  w» 
could  support  the  prickings  and  cutting  of  the  stones  bet 
ter,  as  we  became  lighter  and  more  inured  to  it.  Wi 
had  endeavoured  to  find  some  of  the  kind  of  root  tha 
was  met  with  near  the  sea  coast,  but  none  could  be  pro 
cured.  In  every  valley  we  came  to,  the  natives  woulc 
run  about  and  search  under  every  thorn  bush,  in  hope: 
to  find  some  herb,  for  they  were  nearly  as  hungry  as! 
ourselves.  In  some  places  a small  plant  was  found,  re 
sembling  what  we  call  shepherd’s  sprout  ; they  were  ton 
up  by  them  and  devoured  in  an  instant.  I got  one  oi 
two,  but  they  proved  very  bitter,  and  were  impregnated 
in  a considerable  degree,  with  salt : these  plants  were  sc 
rare  as  to  be  scarcely  of  any  benefit.  There  were  alsc 
found  by  the  natives,  in  particular  places,  a small  ground 
root,  whose  top  showed  itself  like  a single  short  spear  oi 
grass,  about  three  inches  above  the  ground  ; they  dug  ii 
up  with  a stick  ; it  was  of  the  size  of  a small  walnut, 
and  in  shape  very  much  like  an  onion  ; its  taste  fresh, 
without  any  strong  flavour ; but  it  was  very  difficult  tc 
find,  and  afforded  us  very  little  relief,  as  we  could  nol 
get  more  than  half  a dozen  in  a whole  day’s  search,  and 
some  days  none  at  all. 

On  tire  19th  of  September,  in  the  morning,  the  tribe 
having  held  a council  the  night  before,  at  which  I could 
observe  my  old  master  was  looked  up  to  as  a man  of  su- 
perior judgment  and  influence,  they  began  a route  back 
again  towards  tire  sea,  and  the  well  near  which  we  were 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA.- 


85 


first  made  slaves  ; — this  convinced  me  that  no  fresh  water 
could  be  procured  nearer,  and  as  the  camels  were  almost 
dry,  I much  feared  that  myself  and  my  companions  must 
perish  before  we  could  reach  it.  I had  been  in  the  habit 
every  day  since  I was  on  the  desert,  of  relieving  my  ex- 
cessive thirst  by  the  disagreeable  expedient  before  men- 
tioned ; but  that  resource  now  failed  me  for  the  want  of 
moisture,  nor  had  any  thing  passed  through  my  body 
since  the  day  I left  the  well.  We  had  journeyed  for  seven 
and  a half  days  S.  E.  and  I concluded  it  would  require 
the  same  time  to  return  ; but  on  the  18th  we  had  steered 
N.  E.  and  on  the  19th  we  took  a N.  W.  direction,  and 
in  the  course  of  the  day  we  entered  a very  small  valley, 
where  we  found  a few  dwarf  thorn  bushes,  not  more  than 
two  feet  high ; on  these  we  found  some  snails,  most  of 
which  were  dead  and  dry,  but  I got  about  a handful  that 
were  alive,  and  when  a fire  was  kindled,  roasted  and  ate 
them  : Clark  did  the  same,  and  as  we  did  not  receive 
more  than  a gill  of  milk  each  in  twenty-four  hours,  this 
nourishment  was  very  serviceable. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  started  as  soon  as  it 
was  light,  and  drove  very  fast  all  the  day.  We  had  no 
other  drink  than  the  camels’  urine,  which  we  caught  in 
our  hands  as  they  voided  it ; its  taste  was  bitter,  but  not 
salt,  and  it  relieved  our  fainting  spirits.  We  were  forced 
to  keep  up  with  the  drove,  but  in  the  course  of  the  day 
found  a handful  of  snails  each,  which  we  at  night  roasted 
and  ate.  Our  feet,  though  not  much  swollen,  were  ex- 
tremely sore  ; our  bodies  and  limbs  were  nearly  deprived 
of  skin  and  flesh,  for  we  continually  wasted  away,  and 
the  little  we  had  on  our  bones  was  dried  hard,  and  stuck 
fast  to  them.  My  head  had  now  become  accustomed  to 
the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  though  it  remained  uncovered, 
it  did  not  pain  me.  Hunger,  that  had  preyed  upon  my 
companions  to  such  a degree  as  to  cause  them  to  bite  off 
the  flesh  from  their  arms,  had  not  the  same  effect  on  me. 
I was  forced  in  one  instance  to  tie  the  arms  of  one  of  my 
men  behind  him,  in  order  to  prevent  his  gnawing  his 
own  flesh  ; and  in  another  instance,  two  of  them  having 
caught  one  of  the  boys,  a lad  about  four  years  old,  out 
of  sight  of  the  tents,  were  about  dashing  his  brains  out 


86 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


i 


with  a stone,  for  the  purpose  of  devouring  his  flesh,  when 
luckily  at  that  instant  I came  up  and  rescued  the  child, 
with  some  difficulty,  from  their  voracity.  They  were  so 
frantic  with  hunger,  as  to  insist  upon  having  one  meal  of 
his  flesh,  and  then  they  said  they  would  be  willing  to  die ; 
for  they  knew  that  not  only  themselves,  but  all  the  crew 
would  be  instantly  massacred  as  soon  as  the  murder  should 
be  discovered.  I convinced  them  that  it  would  be  more 
manly  to  die  with  hunger  than  to  become  cannibals  and 
eat  their  own  or  other  human  flesh,  telling  them,  at  the 
same  time,  I did  not  doubt  but  our  masters  would  give 
us  sufficient  nourishment  to  keep  us  alive,  until  they  could 
sell  us. 

On  the  20th  we  had  proceeded  with  much  speed  to- 
wards the  N.  W.  or  sea  shore  ; but  on  the  21st  we  did 
not  go  forward.  This  day  I met  with  Mr.  Savage, 
Horace,  Hogan,  and  the  cook  ; their  masters’  tents  were 
pitched  near  ours  ; they  were  so  weak,  emaciated  and  sore, 
that  they  could  scarcely  stand,  and  had  been  carried  on 
the  camels  for  the  last  few  days.  I was  extremely  glad  to 
see  them,  and  spoke  to  all  but  Horace,  whose  master 
drove  me  off  with  a stick  one  way,  and  Horace  another, 
3'elling  most  horribly  at  the  same  time,  and  laying  it  on 
Horace’s  back  with  great  fury.  I soon  returned  to  our 
tent,  and  felt  very  much  dejected  ; they  all  thought  they 
could  not  live  another  day  : there  were  no  snails  to  be 
found  here,  and  we  had  not  one  drop  of  milk  or  water  to 
drink.  Horace,  Hogan,  and  the  cook  were  employed  in 
attending  their  masters’  camels,  in  company  with  one  or 
two  Arabs,  who  kept  flogging  them  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  time. 

My  old  master  did  not  employ  me  or  Clark  in  the  same 
way,  because  he  had  two  negro  slaves  to  do  that  work  ; 
lie  was  a rich  man  among  them,  and  owned  from  sixty 
to  seventy  camels  ; he  was  also  a kind  of  priest,  for  every 
evening  he  was  joined,  in  his  devotions,  by  all  the  old 
and  most  of  the  young  men  near  his  tent.  They  all  first 
washed  themselves  with  sand,  in  place  of  water ; then 
wrapping  themselves  up  with  their  strip  of  cloth  and  turn- 
ing their  faces  to  the  east,  my  old  master  stepped  out  be- 
fore them,  and  commenced  by  bowing  twice,  repeating 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


87 


a£  each  time  “ Allah  Houakibar then 


kneelihg 


and 


j bowing  his  head  to  the  ground  twice  ; then  raising  him- 
5 j self  up  on  his  feet,  and  repeating,  “ Hi  el  Allah  Sheda 
, Mohammed  JRahsool  Allah ,”  bowing  himself  twice  ; and 
again  prostrating  himself  on  the  earth  as  many  times,  then 
- “ Allah  Houakibar ” was  three  times  repeated.  He  was- 
d always  accompanied  in  his  motions  and  words  by  all 
rj  present  who  could  see  him  distinctly,  as  he  stood  before 
them.  He  would  then  make  a ' long  prayer,  and  they 
recited  all  together  what  I afterwards  found  to  be  a chap- 
ter in  the  Koran  ; and  then  all  joined  in  chanting  or  sing- 
ing some  hymn  or  sacred  poetry  for  a considerable  time. 
This  ceremony  being  finished,  they  again  prostrated 
themselves  with  their  faces  to  the  earth,  and  the  service 
concluded. 

About  the  middle  of  this  day  two  strangers  arrived, 
riding  two  camels  loaded  with  goods : they  came  in  front 
of  my  master’s  tent,  and  having  made  the  camels  lie  down, 
they  dismounted,  and  seated  themselves  on  the  ground 
opposite  the  tent,  with  their  faces  turned  the  other  way. 
There  were  in  this  valley  six  tents,  besides  that  of  my 
masters. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Two  Arabian  merchants  are  persuaded  by  the  author  to 
purchase  him  and  four  of  his  suffering  companions — - 
They  kill  a camel , and  prepare  to  set  out  for  Morocco- 
aero  ss  the  Desert. 

All  the  meD.had  gone  out  a hunting  on  their  camels, 
carrying  their  arms  with  them  ; that  is  to  say,  seeking  for 
plunder  as  I concluded.  My  old  and  young  mistresses . 
went  to  see  the  strangers  ; they  had  no  water  to  carry,  as 
is  customary,  but  took  with  them  a large  skin,  with  a roll 
of  tent  cloth,  to  make  them  a shelter.  The  strangers  rose 
as  the  women  drew  near,  and  saluted  them  by  the  words 
“ Labez,  Labez-Salem , Labez-Alikom  peace,  peace  be 
with  you,  &c.  and  the  women  returned  these  salutations 


88  CAPTAIN-  RILEY'S  NAllRATiVE, 

in  similar  words.  They  next  ran  to  our  tent,  and  took  i 
coupie  of  sticks,  with  the  help  of  which,  and  the  skir 
and  tent  cloth,  they  soon  made  an  awning  for  the  strain 
gers.  This  done,  they  took  the  bundles  which  were  on 
the  camels,  and  placed  them  in  this  tent,  with  the  saddles 
and  all  the  other  things  the  strangers  had  brought.  The 
two  strangers  had  a couple  of  skins  that  contained  water, 
which  the  women  hungup  on  a frame  they  carried  from  out 
tent. 

During  the  whole  time  the  women  w'ere  thus  employed, 
the  strangers  remained  seated  on  the  ground  beside  their 
guns,  for  they  had  each  a double  barrelled  musket,  and 
so  bright  that  they  glittered  in  the  sun  like  silver.  The 
women  having  finished  their  attentions,  seated  themselves 
near  the  strangers,  and  made  inquiries,  as  near  as  I could 
comprehend,  by-  saying,  “where  did  you  come  from? 
what  goods  have  you  got  ? how  long  have  you  been  on 
your  journey  ?”  &c.  Having  satisfied  their  curiosity  on 
these  points,  they  next  came  to  me,  and  the  old  woman 
(in  whom  as  yet  I had  not  discovered  one  spark  of  pity) 
told  me  that  Sidi  Hamet  had  come  with  blankets  and  blue 
cloth  to  sell ; that  he  came  from  the  Sultan’s  dominions, 
and  that  he  could  buy  me  and  carry  me  there,  if  he  chose, 
where  I might  find  my  friends,  and  kiss  my  wife  and 
children. 

Before  my  master  returned  I went  to  the  tent  of  Sidi 
Hamet,  with  a wooden  bow  l,  and  begged  for  some  water ; 
showing  my  mouth,  which  w-as  extremely  parched  and 
stiff,  so  much  so,  that  I could  with  difficulty  speak.  He 
looked  at  me,  and  asked  if  I ivas  el  liais , (the  captain.) 
I nodded  assent.  He  told  his  brother,  who  was  with  him, 
to  give  me  some  water,  but  this  his  benevolent  brother 
would  not  condescend  to  do  ; so  taking.^he  bowl  himself, 
he  poured  into  it  near  a quart  of  clear  water,  saying, 
“ Sherub  Rais  that  is,  drink,  captain,  or  chief.  I drank 
about  half  of  it,  and  after  thanking  him  and  imploring 
the  blessing  of  heaven  upon  him  for  his  humanity,  I was 
going  to  take  the  rest  of  it  to  our  tent,  where  Clark  lay 
stretched  out  on  his  back,  a perfect  wreck  of  almost  naked 
bones  ; his  belly  and  back  nearly  collapsed,  and  breathing 
Tike  a persoq  in  the  last  agonies  of  death  ; but  Sidi  Hamet 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA,  gg 

) would  not  permit  me  to  carry  the  water  away,  bidding  me 

! drink  it  myself.  I pointed  out  to  him  my  distressed  com- 
panion ; this  excited  his  pity,  and  he  suffered  me  to  give 
Clark  the  remainder. 

The  water  was  perfectly  fresh,  and  revived  him  exceed- 
ingly ; it  was  a cordial  to  his  desponding  soul,  being  the 
first  fresh  water  either  of  us  had  tasted  since  we  led  the 
boat : his  eyes,  that  were  sunk  deep  in  their  sockets, 
brightened  up — “ This  is  good  water  (said  he)  and  must 
have  come  from  a better  country  than  this ; if  we  were 
once  there,  (added  he,)  and  I could  get  one  good  drink 
of  such  water,  I could  die  with  pleasure,  but  now  I can- 
not live  another  day.”  Our  masters  soon  returned,  and 
began,  with  others  of  the  tribe  who  had  received  the  news 
- of  the  arrival  of  strangers,  to  form  circles  and  chat  with 
them  and  each  other  : this  continued  till  night,  and  I pre- 
sume there  were  at  least  two  hundred  men  present.  After 
lark  they  began  to  separate,  and  by  10  o’clock  at  night 
none  remained  but  my  old  master’s  family,  and  three  or 
four  of  their  relations,  at  our  tent.  On  this  occasion  we 
e were  turned  out  into  the  open  air,  and  were  obliged  to  pass 
. :he  night  without  any  shelter  or  covering.  It  was  a long 
i ind  tedious  night ; but  at  the  time  of  milking  the  camels, 
3ur  old  master  coming  to  us,  as  if  afraid  of  losing  his 
property  by  our  death,  and  anxious  we  should  live,  dealt 
but  about  a pint  of  milk  to  each  : this  milk  tasted  better 
:han  any  I had  yet  drank  ; it  was  a sweet  and  seasonable 
■elief,  and  saved  poor  Clark  from  dissolution. 

This  was  the  first  nourishment  of  any  kind  our  master 
lad  given  us  in  three  days,  and  I concluded  from  this  cir- 
mmstance  that  he  had  hopes  of  selling  us  to  the  strangers. 
The  next  morning  Sidi  Hamet  came  towards  the  tent,  and 
oeckoned  me  to  come  there  ; he  was  at  a considerable  dis- 
ance,  and  I made  the  best  of  my  way  to  him,  where  he 
)ade  me  sit  down  on  the  ground.  I had  by  this  time 
earned  many  words  in  their  language,  which  is  ancient 
Arabic,  and  could  understand  the  general  current  of  their 
Conversation,  by  paying  strict  attention  to  it. 

He  now  began  to  question  me  about  my  country,  and 
he  manner  in  which  i had  come  here.  I made  him  un- 
Herstand  that  I was  an  Englishman,  and  that  my  vessel 

*2 


90 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


and  crew  were  of  the  same  nation.  I found  he  had  heard 
of  that  country,  and  I stated  as  well  as  I could  the  man- 
ner  of  my  shipwreck — told  him  we  were  reduced  to  the 
lowest  depth  of  misery  ; that  I had  a wife  and  five  children 
in  my  own  country,  besides  Horace,  whom  I called  my 
eldest  son,  mingling  with  my  story  sighs  and  tears,  and 
all  the  signs  of  affection  and  despair  which  these  recollec- 
tions and  my  present  situation  naturally  called  forth. 

I found  him  to  be  a very  intelligent  and  feeling  man ; 
for  although  he  knew  no  language  but  the  Arabic,  he 
comprehended  so  well  what  I wished  to  communicate; 
that  he  actually  shed  tears  at  the  recital  of  my  distresses, 
notwithstanding  that,  among  the  Arabs,  weeping  is  re- 
garded  as  a womanish  weakness.  He  seemed  to  be 
ashamed  of  his  own  want  of  fortitude,  and  said  that  men 
who  had  beards  like  him  ought  not  to  shed  tears ; and  he 
retired,  wiping  his  eyes. 

Finding  I had  awakened  his  sympathy,  I thought  if  I 
could  rouse  his  interest  by  large  offers  of  money,  he  might 
buy  me  and  my  companions,  and  carry  us  up  from  the 
desert — so  accordingly  the  first  time  I saw  him  alone,  1 
went  to  him,  and  begged  him  to  buy  me,  and  carry  me 
to  the  Sultan  of  Morocco  or  Marocksh,  where  I could 
find  a friend  to  redeem  me.  He  said  no,  but  he  would 
carry  me  to  Swearah,  describing  it  as  a walled  town  and 
seaport.  I told  him  I had  seen  the  Sultan,  and  that  he 
was  a friend  to  my  nation.  He  then  asked  me  many  other 
questions  about  Mohammed  Rahsool : I bowed,  and 
pointed  to  the  east,  then  towards  heaven,  as  if  I thought 
he  had  ascended  there.  This  seemed  to  please  him,  and 
he  asked  me  how  much  money  I would  give  him  to  carry 
me  up  ; upon  which  I counted  over  fifty  pieces  of  stones, 
signifying  I would  give  as  many  dollars  for  myself  and 
each  of  my  men.  “ I will  not  buy  the  others,’ ’ said  he. 
“ but  how  much  more  than  fifty  dollars  will  you  give  me 
for  yourself,  if  I buy  you  and  carry  you  to  your  friends  ?” 
I told  him  one  hundred  dollars.  “ Have  you  any  money 
in  Swearah, ” asked  he  by  signs  and  words,  “ or  do  you 
mean  to  make  me  wait  till  you  get  it  from  your  country  ?” 
I replied  that  my  friend  in  Swearah  would  give  him  the 
money  so  soon  as  he  brought  me  there.  “You  are  dc 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


91 


\ ceiving  me,”  said  he.  I made  the  most  solemn  protesta- 
tions of  my  sincerity.  “ I will  buy  you  then,”  said  he, 
<e  but  remember,  if  you  deceive  me,  I will  cut  your 
throat,”  (making  a motion  to  that  effect.)  This  I assented 
to,  and  begged  of  him  to  buy  my  son  Horace  also  ; but 
he  would  not  hear  a word  about  any  of  my  companions, 
as  it  would  be  impossible,  he  said,  to  get  them  up  off  the 
desert,  which  was  a great  distance.  “ Say  nothing  about 
it  to  your  old  master,”  signified  he  to  me,  “ nor  to  my 
brother,  or  any  of  the  others.”  He  tlien  left  me,  and  I 
went  out  to  seek  for  snails  to  relieve  my  hunger.  I saw 
Mr.  Savage  and  Hogan,  and  brought  them  with  Clark 
near  Sidi  Hamet3s  tent,  where  we  sat  down  on  the  ground. 
He  came  out  to  see  us,  miserable  objects  as  we  were,  and 
seemed  very  much  shocked  at  the  sight.  I told  ray  com- 
panions  I had  great  hopes  we  should  be  bought  by  this 
man  and  carried  up  to  the  cultivated  country  ; but  they 
expressed  great  fears  that  they  would  be  left  behind.  Sidi 
Hamet  asked  me  many  questions  about  my  men — wished 
to  know  if  any  of  them  had  died,  and  if  they  had  wives 
and  children.  I tried  all  I could  to  interest  him  in  their 
behalf,  as  well  as  my  own,  and  mentioned  to  him  my  son, 
whom  he  had  not  yet  seen.  I found  my  companions  had 
; been  very  much  stinted  in  milk  as  well  as  myself,  and  that 
they  had  no  water : they  had  found  a few  snails,  which 
kept  them  alive  ; but  even  these  now  failed. 

The  24th,  we  journeyed  on  towards  the  N.  W.  all  day, 
the  whole  tribe,  or  nearly  so,  in  company,  and  the  stran- 
gers also  kept  in  company  with  us.  When  my  mistress 
pitched  her  tent  near  night,  she  made  up  one  for  Sidi 
Hamet  also.  I begged  of  him  on  my  knees,  every  time  I 
had  an  opportunity,  for  him  to  buy  me  and  my  compan- 
ions, and  on  the  25th  I had  the  happiness  to  see  him  pay 
my  old  master  for  me  : he  gave  him  two  blankets  or  coarse 
haicks,  one  blue  cotton  covering,  and  a bundle  of  ostrich 
feathers,  with  which  the  old  man  seemed  much  pleased, 
as  he  had  now  three  suits  of  clothing.  They  were  a long 
( time  in  making  the  bargain. 

This  day  Horace  came  with  his  master  to  fetch  some- 
i thing  to  our  tent : at  his  approach,  I went  to  meet  him. 

' and  embraced  him  with  tears.  Sidi  Hamet  was  then  fully 


9ss 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


convinced  that  he  was  my  son.  I had  found  a few  snails 
this  morning,  and  divided  them  between  Mr.  Savage  and 
Horace  before  Sidi  Hamet,  who  signified  to  me  in  the; 
afternoon  that  he  intended  to  set  out  with  me  in  two  days 
for  Swearah  ; that  he  had  tried  to  buy  my  son,  but  could 
not  succeed,  for  his  master  would  not  sell  him  at  any 
price  : then  said  I,  “ let  me  stay  in  his  place  ; I will  be  a 
faithful  slave  to  his  master  as  long  as  I live  ; carry  him  up 
to  Swearah  ; my  friend  will  pay  you  for  him,  and  send 
him  home  to  his  mother,  whom  I cannot  see  unless  I 
bring  her  son  with  me.”  “ You  shall  have  your  son,  by 
Allah,”  said  Sidi  Hamet.  The  whole  tribe  was  gathered 
in  council,  and  I supposed  relative  to  this  business.  In 
the  course  of  the  afternoon  they  debated  the  matter  over, 
and  seemed  to  turn  it  every  way  ; — they  fought,  besides, 
three  or  four  battles  with  fists  and  scimitars,  in  their  warm 
and  loud  discussions  in  settling  individual  disputes  ; but 
in  the  evening  I was  told  that  Horace  was  bought,  as  the 
tribe  in  council  had  forced  his  master  to  sell  him,  though 
at  a great  price.  I now  redoubled  my  entreaties  with  my 
new  master  to  buy  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark,  telling  him  that 
I would  give  him  a large  sum  of  money  if  he  got  us  up 
safe  ; but  he  told  me  he  should  be  obliged  to  carry  us 
through  bands  of  robbers,  who  would  kill  him  for  our 
sakes,  and  that  his  company  was  not  strong  enough  to  re 
sist  them  by  force  of  arms — I fell  down  on  my  knees,  and 
implored  him  to  buy  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark,  at  any  rate, 
thinking  if  he  should  buy  them,  he  might  be  induced  to 
purchase  the  remaining  part  of  the  crew. 

My  mind  had  been  so  busily  employed  in  schemes  of 
redemption,  as  almost  to  forget  my  sufferings  since  Sidi 
Hamet  had  bought  me.  He  had  given  me  two  or  three 
drinks  of  water,  and  had  begged  milk  for  me  of  my  for- 
mer master.  On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  I renewed  my 
entreaties  for  him  to  purchase  Mr.  Savage,  Clark,  and 
Hogan-— the  others  I had  not  seen  since  the  second  or 
third  day  after  we  were-  in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs.  I did 
not  know  where  they  were,  and  consequently  could  not 
designate  them  to  my  master  Hamet,  though  I told  him  all 
their  names.  Mr.  Savage  and  Hogan  looked  much  more 
healthy  and  likely  to  live  than  Clark,  and  Sidi  Hamet  in 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


93 


is  jxsted  that  it  was  impossible  that  Clark  could  live  more 
»han  three  days,  and  that  if  he  bought  him,  he  should 
■if (lose  his  money.  I told  him  no,  he  should  not  lose  his 
money,  for  whether  he  lived  or  died,  I would  pay  him 
ilfihe  same  amount. 

■'  Clark  was  afflicted  with  the  scalded  head,  rendered  a 
;3w  sore  in  consequence  of  his  sufferings,  and  his  hair, 
p which  was  very  long,  was,  of  course,  in  a very  filthy  con- 
3 lition  : this  attracted  the  attention  of  Sidi  Hamet  and  his 
brother,  the  latter  of  whom  was  a very  surly  and  cross- 
ooking  fellow.  They  pushed  the  hair  open  with  their 
d sticks,  and  demanded  to  know  what  was  the  occasion  of 
i jhat  filthy  appearance.  Clark  assured  them  that  it  was  in 
consequence  of  his  exposure  to  the  sun  ; and  as  that  was 
he  reason  I had  assigned  for  the  horrible  sores  and  blisters 
mihat  covered  our  scorched  bodies  and  half-roasted  flesh, 
a hey  said,  it  might  possibly  be  so,  but  asked  why  the 
ie  leads  of  the  rest  of  us  were  not  in  the  same  state.  They 
li  next  found  fault  with  my  shins,  which  had  been  a long 
ime  very  sore,  and  they  examined  every  bone  to  see  if  all 
vas  right  in  its  place,  with  the  same  cautious  circumspec- 
ion  that  a jockey  would  use,  who  was  about  buying  a 
i iorse  ; while  we,  poor  trembling  wretches,  strove  with 
ill  possible  care  and  anxiety  to  hide  every  fault  and  in- 
irmity  in  us,  occasioned  by  our  dreadful  calamities  and 
I :ruel  sufferings. 

Sidi  Hamet  informed  me  this  day,  that  he  had  bought 
Mr.  Savage  and  Clark,  and  had  bargained  for  Hogan,  and 
;hat  he  was  going  to  kill  a camel  that  night  for  provisions 
m our  journey.  Our  water  had  been  expended  for  two 
lays,  and  all  the  families  around  us  were  also  destitute.  I 
lid  not  get  more  than  a gill  of  milk  in  twenty-four  hours, 
tnd  a small  handful  of  snails — these  served  in  a little  de- 
cree to  support  nature,  and  I waited  with  the  greatest 
impatience  for  the  killing  of  the  camel  which  had  been, 
promised,  hoping  to  have  a meal  of  meat  once  more  before 
[ died.  Clark  and  I had  been  busy  all  the  afternoon  in 
gathering  dry  sticks  to  make  a fire,  and  a little  after  mid- 
night my  master  came  to  me  and  showed  me  where  to 
carry  the  wood  we  had  collected  ; it  was  in  a little  guliey 
that  it  might  not  be  seen  by  our  neighbours,  whilst  our 


94 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


former  master  and  two  present  ones  were  leading  a cam* 
up  to  the  same  place.  This  camel,  on  its  arrival,  the 
made  lie  down  in  the  usual  manner:  it  was  a very  ol 
one,  and  so  poor,  that  he  had  not  been  able  to  keep  pac 
with  the  drove  during  the  journey,  and  Sidi  Hamet  tol 
me  he  had  bought  him  for  one  blanket. 

The  camel  being  down,  they  put  a rope  round  his  ur 
der  jaw,  with  a noose  in  it ; then  hauling  his  head  roun 
on  the  left  side,  made  the  rope  fast  to  his  tail,  close  up  t 
his  body  ; his  neck  was  so  long,  that  the  under  jaw  reach 
ed  within  six  inches  of  the  tail : they  then  brought  a cop1 
per  kettle  that  would  contain  probably  three  gallons.  Thu 
prepared,  Sidi  Hamet  cut  open  a vein  on  the  right  side  c 
the  camel’s  neck,  close  to  his  breast ; the  blood  streams 
out  into  the  kettle,  and  soon  filled  it  half  full ; this  the 
set  over  the  fire  and  boiled,  stirring  it  all  the  time  with 
stick,  until  it  became  thick,  and  of  the  consistence  of 
beef’s  liver  ; then  taking  it  off  the  fire,  they  passed  it  t' 
me,  saying,  “ coole,  Riley,”  (eat,  Riley.)  I did  not  wai! 
for  a second  bidding,  but  fell  to,  together  with  Clark  : ou 
appetites  were  voracious,  and  we  soon  filled  our  stomach 
with  this,  to  us,  delicious  food. 

Notwithstanding  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  and  the  priva 
cy  observed  in  killing  this  meagre  camel,  many  of  ou 
hungry  neighbours  had  found  it  out,  and  came  to  assist  ii 
the  dressing  and  eating  of  the  animal.  They  insisted  oi 
having  some  of  the  blood,  and  would  snatch  out  a handfu 
in  spite  of  all  our  masters  could  do  to  hinder  them  ; they 
were  then  very  officious  in  assisting  to  take  off  the  hide 
which  was  soon  done,  and  the  entrails  were  rolled  out 
they  next  proceeded  to  put  all  the  small  entrails  into  the 
kettle,  without  cleaning  them  of  their  contents,  togethei 
with  what  remained  of  the  liver  and  lights ; but  they  had 
no  water  to  boil  them  in.  Then  one  of  them  went  tc 
the  camel’s  paunch,  which  was  very  large,  and  cutting  a 
slit  in  the  top  of  it,  dipped  out  some  of  the  filthy  water  in 
a bowl  : this  they  poured  into  the  kettle,  and  set  it  a boil- 
ing, stirring  it  round,  and  now  and  then  taking  out  a piece, 
and  biting  off”  an  end,  to  ascertain  whether  it  was  cooked 
enough.  During  this  time,  half  a dozen  hungry  wretches 
were  at  work  on  the  camel,  which  they  would  not  leave 


SUFFERINGS  ift  AFRICA, 


95 


:Vunder  pretence  of  friendship  for  our  masters,  for  they 
Jivould  not  suffer  strangers  to  work,  when  in  their  company, 
/And  it  being  dark,  they  managed  to  steal  and  convey  away, 
Jaefore  morning,  more  than  one-half  of  the  camel’s  bones 
5md  meat,  with  half  his  skin.  Our  masters  were  as  hun- 
gry as  any  of  the  Arabs,  yet  though  they  had  bought  the 
lr  :amel,  they  could  scarcely  get  a bite  of  the  intestines 
Jvitfiout  fighting  for  it ; for  what  title  or  argument  can 
prevail  against  the  ravenous  appetite  of  a half-starved  man  ? 
Though  our  masters  saw  the  natives  in  the  very  act  of 
)p pealing  and  carrying  off  their  meat,  they  could  not  pre- 
rent  them,  fearing  worse  consequences  than  losing  it ; it 
( )eing  a standing  maxim  among  the  Arabs  to  feed  the 
lungry  if  in  their  power,  and  give  them  drink,  even  if 
he  owner  of  the  provisions  be  obliged  to  rob  himself  and 
lis  own  family  to  do  it. 

Notwithstanding  the  boiled  blood  we  had  eaten  was  per- 
, ectly  fresh,  yet  our  thirst  seemed  to  increase  in  conse- 
quence of  it.  As  soon  as  daylight  appeared,  a boy  of 
, rom  fourteen  to  sixteen  years  old  came  running  up  to  the 
! lamel’s  paunch,  and  thrusting  his  head  into  it  up  to  his 
shoulders,  began  to  drink  of  its  contents ; my  master  ob~ 
serving  him,  and  seeing  that  my  mouth  was  very  dry, 
nade  signs  for  me  to  go  and  pull  the  boy  away,  and  drink 
nyself ; this  I soon  did,  putting  my  head  in  like  manner 
nto  the  paunch ; the  liquid  was  very  thick,  but  though 
ts  taste  was  exceedingly  strong,  yet  it  was  not  salt,  and 
illayed  my  thirst : Clark  next  took  a drink  of  the  same 
luid. 

This  morning,  we  were  busied  in  cutting  off  the  little 
flesh  that  remained  on  the  bones  of  our  camel,  spreading 
t out  to  dry,  and  roasting  the  bones  on  the  fire  for  our 
masters,  who  cracking  them  between  two  stones,  then 
| sucked  out  the  marrow  and  juices.  Near  noon,  Horace 
was  brought  where  I was.;  he  was  very  hungry  and  thirsty, 
and  said  he  had  not  ate  any  thing  of  consequence  for  the 
last  three  days.  Our  common  master  said  to  me,  “ this 
is  your  son  Rais,”  and  seemed  extremely  glad  that  he  had 
been  able  to  purchase  him,  giving  him  some  of  the  entrails 
and  meat  he  had  boiled  and  saved  for  the  purpose.  I in 
my  turn  gave  him  some  of  our  thick  camel’s  water,  which 


96 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


he  found  to  be  delicious;  so  true  it  is,  that  hunger  an 
thirst  give  a zest  to  every  thing.  Burns  was  brought  u 
soon  after,  and  my  master  asked  me  if  he  was  one  of  m 
men  ; I told  him  he  was  : “ his  master  wants  to  sell  him, 
said  Sidi  Hamet,  “ but  he  is  old  and  good  for  nothing,^ 
added  he  ; “ yet  I can  buy  him  for  this  blanket,”  showinl 
me  a very  poor  old  one.  I said,  “ buy  him,  he  is  nr 
countryman,  I will  repay  you  as  much  for  him  as  for  th 
others  so  he  went  out,  and  bought  him  from  his  master 
and  then  gave  him  something  to  eat.  Poor  Burns  wa 
much  rejoiced  to  find  there  was  a prospect  of  recovering 
his  liberty,  or  at  least  of  getting  where  he  might  procuri 
something  to  eat  and  drink.  During  this  day,  the  native: 
flocked  round  in  great  numbers,  men,  women,  and  chil 1 
dren,  and  what  with  begging  and  stealing  reduced  our  stocl 
of  meat  to  less  than  fifteen  pounds  before  night. 

Sidi  Hamet  now  told  me  that  he  had  bought  Hogan 
this  was  in  the  afternoon,  and  he  came  to  us.  I congratu 
lated  him  on  our  favourable  prospects,  and  our  master  gave 
him  something  to  eat ; but  his  former  master,  Hamet,  now 
demanded  one  blanket  more  for  him  than  had  been  agreed1 
on,  as  he  was  a stout  fellow : my  master  would  not  be  ■ 
imposed  upon,  nor  had  he  indeed  a blanket  left.  I beg-!| 
ged  very  hard  for  poor  Hogan,  but  it  was  to  no  purpose,! 
and  his  old  master  drove  him  off,  laying  on  his  back 
with  a stick  most  unmercifully.  Hamet’s  eyes  seemed 
fairly  to  flash  fire  as  he  went  from  us.  Hogan’s  hopes  had 
been  raised  to  a high  pitch — they  were  now  blasted,  and 
he  driven  back  like  a criminal  before  his  brutal  owner,  to 
his  former  miserable  abode.  He  informed  me  that  he  had 
never  as  yet,  since  our  captivity,  known  what  it  was  to 
sleep  under  the  cover  of  a tent ; that  his  allowance  of  milk 
had  been  so  scant,  that  he  did  not  doubt  but  he  must  have 
died  with  hunger  in  a day  or  two  : he  was  extremely  wast- 
ed and  sore  on  every  side.  My  heart  bled  for  him  when  I 
saw  the  blows  fall  on  his  emaciated  and  mangled  frame ; 
but  I could  not  assist  him,  and  all  I could  do  was  to  turn 
round  and  hide  my  face,  so  as  not  to  witness  his  further 
tortures. 

This  day  was  employed  in  preparing  for  our  departure : 
our  masters  made  me  a pair  of  sandais  with  two  thickness 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


97 


r of  the  camel’s  skin ; they  also  made  Horace  a pair  in  the 
I,  .same  manner  ; but  Clark  and  Burns  were  fitted  with  sin- 
5 gle  ones.  They  had  in  the  morning  given  me  a small 
knife,  which  I hung  to  my  neck  in  a case:  this  they 
meant  as  a mark  of  confidence ; and  they  also  gave  me 
f charge  of  their  stuff,  the  camels,  and  the  slaves.  I soon 
u perceived,  however,  that  although  I had  this  kind  of 
| command,  yet  I was  obliged  to  do  all  the,  work.  My 
nen  were  so  far  exhausted,  that  even  the  hope  of  soon 
obtaining  their  liberty,  could  scarcely  animate  them  to  the 
east  exertion. 

In  the  evening  Sidi  Hamet  told  me  Aaron  (Mr.  Savage) 
would  be  with  us  bv  and  by: — that  we  should  start  in  the 
norning  for  Swearah, — and  that  he  hoped,  through  the 
ilessing  of  God,  I should  once  more  embrace  my  family: 
le  then  told  me  how  much  he  had  paid  for  each  one  of 
is — that  he  had  expended  all  his  property,  and  that  if  I 
lad  not  told  him  the  truth  he  was  a ruined  man— that  his 
irother  was  a bad  man,  and  had  done  alt  he  could  to  pre- 
sent his  buying  us,  but  that  he  had  at  last  consented  to  it, 
nd  taken  a share. 

He  next  made  me  repeat,  before  his  brother,  my 
iromises  to  him  when  we  should  arrive  at  Swearah,  and 
ny  agreement  to  have  my  throat  cut  if  my  words  did  not 
•rove  true.  Late  in  the  evening  Mr.  Savage  joined  us  : 
ie  knew  before  that  I was  going  to  set  out,  and  thought 
ie  should  be  left  behind  : he  was  very  thankful  to  be  un- 
leceived  in  this  particular,  and  to  get,  at  the  same  time, 
omething  to  eat ; for  Sidi  Hamet  had  saved  some  of  the 
amel’s  intestines,  which  he  immediately  gave  him. 

After  having  satisfied  his  hunger  in  some  measure,  he 
iegan  to  express  his  doubts  as  to  where  we  were  going ; 
eclaring,  that  he  did  not  believe  a word  these  wretches 
aid  : — he  could  not  understand  them,  and  said  he  did  not 
elieve  I could  ; and  suggested  a hundred  doubts  and  dif- 
culties  on  the  subject  that  his  ill-boding  imagination  sup- 
lied  him  with.  He  did  not  like  the  price  I had  agreed 
lo  give  for  our  liberty, — it  was  too  much,  and  I should 
nd  no  body  willing  to  advance  it  for  me,  as  I was  poor. 

I We  had  started  what  water  remained  in  the  paunch  of 
i ie  camel,  thick  as  it  was,  into  a goat  skin,  straining  it 

13 


98 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


through  our  fingers  to  keep  out  the  thickest  of  the  filth, 
The  night  of  the  27th,  as  near  as  we  could  keep  couni' 
by  marking  the  day  of  the  month  on  our  legs  with  a thorn, 
we  passed  in  the  open  air,  five  of  us  together. 

At  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  were  called 
up  and  made  to  load  our  camels.  I had  strong  hopes  we 
were  going  to  ride,  but  it  now  appeared  not  to  be  the 
case.  All  the  Arabs  in  the  valley  set  out  in  the  morning 
with  their  camels,  to  drive  them  to  water  : they  had  not 
been  watered  since  the  10th,  having  gone  without  any  for 
eighteen  days.  They  were  now  at  least  two  days’  jour- 
ney from  the  well  where  we  had  first  been  seized,  towards 
which  they  then  steered  in  a N.  W.  direction.  I mention 
this  circumstance,  to  show  the  time  these  wonderful  ani- 
mals can  live  without  drink,  and  supply  their  masters  with 
milk,  even  when  nearly  destitute  of  vegetable  substances  ; 
and  with  water  from  their  paunches  after  death. 

Soon  after  sunrise,  our  masters  bade  us  drive  the  cam- 
els up  the  bank  : at  this  moment  Archibald  Robbins  came 
with  his  master  to  see  us,  and  I supposed  his  master  had 
brought  him  with  the  view  of  selling  him.  1 had  not  be- 
fore seen  him  for  fourteen  days,  and  he  had  only  arrived 
soon  enough  to  witness  our  departure : I now  on  my  knees 
begged,  as  I had  done  before  of  Sidi  Hamet,  to  purchase 
him  ; but  he  said  he  could  not,  and  so  hurried  us  on. 

I told  Robbins  what  my  present  hopes  were,  and  that 
if  I should  succeed  in  getting  clear,  I would  use  my  ut- 
most endeavours  to  procure  his  and  the  rest  of  the  crew’s 
redemption.  I begged  him  to  continue  as  long  as  he 
could  with  his  present  master,  who,  for  an  Arab,  appeared 
to  be  a very  good  man  ; and  to  encourage  Mr.  Williams 
and  all  the  others  to  bear  up  with  fortitude,  and  support 
life  as  long  as  it  was  possible,  in  the  hope,  that  through 
my  help  or  some  other  means,  they  might  obtain  their 
redemption  in  a short  time ; and  having  taken  my  leave 
of  him  in  the  most  affectionate  manner,  (in  which  my 
companions  followed  the  example,)  we  set  out  on  our 
journey,  but  with  heavy  hearts,  occasioned  by  the  bitter 
regret  we  felt  at  leaving  our  fellow  sufferers  behind,  al- 
though I had  done  all  in  my  power  to  make  them  par 
takers  of  our  better  fortune. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA 


99 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  author  and  four  of  his  companions  set  out  to  cross  the 
' Desert — Their  sufferings — They  come  to  a spring  of 

f fresh  water — Description  of  its  singular  situation. 

3 From  the  time  I was  sold  to  Sidi  Hamet,  my  old 
i master  and  his  family  shunned  me  as  they  would  a pesti- 
lence ; and  the  old  villain  actually  stole  one  piece  of  our 
meat  from  me,  or  rather  robbed  me  of  it,  just  as  we 
were  setting  out ; for  he  cut  it  off  the  string  by  which  it 
was  tied  to  the  camel,  in  spite  of  my  efforts  to  prevent 
him*  Our  masters  were  accompanied  for  a considerable 
distance  by  several  men  and  women,  who  were  talking 
and  taking  leave,  going  on  very  slowly.  We  were  or- 
dered to  keep  their  camels  together,  which  I thought  I 
did ; yet  when  they  were  finally  ready  to  depart,  they 
found  their  big  camel  had  marched  off  a great  distance, 
probably  two  miles  from  us,  following  a drove  of  camels 
going  to  the  N.  W. ; Sidi  Hamet  bade  me  fetch  him 
back,  pointing  him  out : notwithstanding  my  weak  and 
exhausted  state,  I was  obliged  to  run  a great  way  to  come 
up  with  him  ; but  my  rising  spirits  supported  me,  and  I 
succeeded  in  bringing  him  back,  where  the  other  camels 
were  collected  by  my  shipmates. 

Sidi  Hamet  and  Seid  had  two  old  camels  on  which  they 
had  rode,  and  they  had  bought  also  a young  one  that  had 
not  been  broke  for  riding.  We  were  joined  here  by  a 
poung  Arab  named  Abdallah : he  had  been  Mr.  Savage’s 
master,  and  owned  a camel  and  a couple  of  goat  skins 
to  carry  water  in  ; but  these,  as  well  as  those  of  our  mas- 
ters, were  entirely  empty.  Sidi  Hamet  had  a kind  of  a 
f pack  saddle  for  each  of  his  old  camels  ; but  nothing  to 
cover  the  bones  of  his  young  one.  Having  fitted  them 
is  well  as  he  could,  (for  he  seemed  to  be  humane,)  he 
placed  Mr.  Savage,  Burns,  and  Horace,  on  the  big  one, 
ind  myself  and  Clark  on  the  other  old  one.  Seid  and 
Abdallah  took  their  seats  on  the  one  which  belonged  to 
Abdallah,  and  Sidi  Hamet  mounted  the  young  one  him- 
>elf  to  break  him,  sitting  behind  the  hump  on  his  bare 


100 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


back  ; and  thus  arranged  and  equipped,  we  set  off  on  ; 
full  and  long  striding  trot.  It  was  about  nine  A.  M ; 
when  we  had  mounted  ; and  this  trot  had  continued  fo: 
about  three  hours,  wlvn  we  stopped  a few  minutes  in  ; 
little  valley  to  adjust  our  saddles.  Here  Sidi  Hamet  pull 
ed  out  a check  shirt  from  one  of  his  bags  and  gave  it  me ; 
declaring  he  had  stolen  it,  and  had  tried  to  get  another 
for  Horace,  but  had  not  been  able  : “ put  it  on,”  said 
he,  “ your  poor  back  needs  a covering  (it  being  ther 
one  entire  sore.)  I kissed  his  hand  in  gratitude,  anq 
thanked  him  and  my  Heavenly  Father  for  this  mercy. 
Clark,  a day  or  two  before,  had  got  a piece  of  an  old 
sail,  that  partly  covered  him  ; Burns  had  an  old  jacket, 
and  Horace  and  Mr.  Savage,  a small  goat  skin  added  tc 
their  dress — so  that  we  were  all,  comparatively,  comfort- 
ably clad.  We  did  not  stop  here  long,  but  mounted! 
again,  and  proceeded  on  our  course  to  the  eastward  on  a1 
full  trot,  which  was  continued  till  night ; when  coming 
to  a little  valley/ we  found  some  thorn  bushes  and  halted 
for  the  night. 

Here  we  kindled  a fire,  and  our  masters  gave  us  a few 
mouthfuls  of  the  camel’s  meat,  which  we  roasted  and 
ate.  As  we  had  drank  no  water  for  the  last  three  days, 
except  a very  little  of  what  we  had  taken  from  the  camel’s 
paunch,  and  which  was  now  reduced  to  about  four  quarts, 
we.  as  well  as  our  masters,  suffered  exceedingly  for  the 
want  of  it.  and  it  was  thereupon  determined  to  make  ant 
equal  distribution  of  it  among  the  whole  party ; which 
was  accordingly  done  with  an  impartial  hanch  This  we 
poor  sufferers  made  out  to  swallow,  foul  and  ropy  as  it 
was,  and  it  considerably  relieved  our  parched  throats  ; 
and  then,  finding  a good  shelter  under  a thorn  bush,  not- 
withstanding our  unabated  pains,  we  got  a tolerable 
night’s  sleep.  We  had  travelled  this  day  steady  at  a long 
trot,  at  the  rate,  I judged,  of  between  seven  and  eight 
miles  an  hour  : making  a distance  of  sixty-three  miles  at 
the  lowest  computation. 

Before  daylight  in  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  were 
called  up  and  mounted  on  the  camels  as  before,  and  we 
set  off  on  the  long  trot,  on  the  same  course,  i.  e.  about 
east,  as  on  the  preceding  day.  The  same  smooth  hard 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


101 


I ! surface  continued,  with  now  and  then  a little  break,  oc- 
casioned by  the  naked  heads  of  rocks  just  rising  above 
he  plain,  and  forming  in  some  places  small  ledges.  Near 
>ne  of  these,  we  alighted  a few  minutes  about  noon,  for 
)ur  masters  to  perform  their  devotions ; and  we  allayed 
mr  thirst  by  drinking  some  of  the  camels’  urine,  which 
ve  caught  in  our  hands  : our  masters  did  the  same,  and 
old  me  it  was  good  for  our  stomachs.  The  camels  took 
rery  long  steps,  and  their  motions  being  heavy,  our  legs, 
msupported  by  stirrups  or  any  thing  else,  would  % 
>ackwards  and  forwards,  chafing  across  their  hard  ribs  at 
:very  step  ; nor  was  it  possible  for  us  to  prevent  it,  so 
hat  the  remaining  flesh  on  our  posteriors,  and  inside  of 
>ur  thighs  and  legs,  was  so  beat,  and  literally  pounded 
o pieces,  that  scarcely  any  remained  on  our  bones  ; 
ehich  felt  as  if  they  had  been  thrown  out  of  their  sock- 
:ts,  by  the  continual  and  sudden  jerks  they  experienced 
luring  this  longest  of  days.  It  seemed  to  me  as  though 
he  sun  would  never  go  down,  and  when  at  last  it  did, 
tur  masters  had  not  yet  found  a place  to  lodge  in  ; for 
hey  wished,  if  possible,  to  find  a spot  where  a few  shrubs 
vere  growing,  in  order  that  the  camels  might  browse  a 
ittle  during  the  night.  They  stopped  at  last  after  dark 
n a very  small  valley,  for  they  could  find  no  better 
dace  ; here  they  kindled  a little  fire,  and  gave  us  about 
i pound  of  meat  between  us,  which  we  greedily  devour- 
ed, and  then  allayed  our  thirst  in  a similar  manner  as  be- 
ore  mentioned. 

We  had  started  before  daylight  this  morning,  and  had 
nade  but  one  stop  of  about  fifteen  minutes  in  the  course 
>f  the  whole  day  until  dark  night,  having  travelled  at  least 
ifteen  hours,  and  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  the  hour, 
naking  one  hundred  and  five  miles.  Here  in  our  bare- 
)one  and  mangled  state,  we  were  forced  to  lie  on  the 
raked  ground,  without  the  smallest  shelter  from  the  wind, 
vhich  blew  a violent  gale  all  night  from  the  north — suf- 
fering in  addition  to  the  cold,  the  cravings  of  hunger  and 
: hirst,  and  the  most  excruciating  pains  in  our  limbs  and 
mmerous  sores  ; nor  could  either  of  us  close  our  eyes  to 
leep  ; and  I cannot  imagine  that  the  tortures  of  the  rack 
pn  exceed  those  we  then  experienced.  Sidi  Hamet  and 


102  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

Ins  two  companions,  who  had  been  accustomed  to  rid 
in  tiiis  manner,  thought  nothing  of  it;  nor  did  they  eve 
appear  to  be  fatigued  ; but  when  I showed  him  my  sore 
in  the  morning,  and  the  situation  of  my  shipmates,  h 
was  much  distressed,  and  feared  we  would  not  live.  H 
told  me  we  should  come  to  good  water  soon,  when  w 
might  drink  as  much  as  we  wanted  of  it,  and  after  th; 
he  would  not  travel  so  fast. 

We  were  placed  on  our  camels  soon  after  daylight 
(this  was  the  29th,)  having  nothing  to  eat,  and  drinkinj! 
a little  camel’s  water,  which  we  preferred  to  our  own 
its  taste,  as  I before  observed,  though  bitter,  was  nc 
salt ; and  they  void  it  but  seldom  in  this  dry  and  thirst 
country.  Proceeding  on  our  journey  at  a long  trot,  abou 
nine  o’clock  in  the  morning,  we  discovered  before  u 
what  seemed  like  high  land,  as  we  were  seated  on  th 
camels  ; but  on  our  approach,  it  proved  to  be  the  oppo 
site  bank  of  what  appeared  once  to  have  been  a river  o 
arm  of  the  sea,  though  its  bed  was  now  dry.  At  abou 
10  o’clock,  we  came  to  the  bank  nearest  us ; it  was  ven 
steep,  and  four  or  five  hundred  feet  deep,  and  in  mos 
places  perpendicular  or  overhanging.  These  banks  mus 
have  been  washed,  at  some  former  period,  either  by  th< 
sea  or  a river ; which  river,  if  it  was  one,  does  not  non 
exist.  After  considerable  search,  our  masters  found  2 
place  where  our  camels  could  descend  into  it,  and  having 
first  dismounted,  and  made  us  do  the  same,  we  drove 
them  down.  When  we  had  descended  the  most  difficult 
part,  of  the  bank,  Seid  and  Abdallah  went  forward  (with 
heir  guns)  to  search  for  a spring  of  fresh  water,  which, 
Sidi  Hamet  told  me  was  not  very  far  distant.  He  now 
made  me  walk  along  with  him,  and  let  the  others  drive 
on  the  camels  slowly  after  us ; for  they,  as  well  as  our- 
selves, were  nearly  exhausted.  He  then  asked  me  a great  ' 
many  questions  respecting  my  country,  myself  and  fami- 
ly ; and  whether  I had  any  property  at  home ; if  I had 
been  at  Swcarah,  and  if  I told  him  the  truth  concerning 
my  having  a friend  there  who  would  pay  money  for  me  ? 
He  said  also,  that  both  himself  and  his  brother  had  part- 
ed with  ail  their  property  to  purchase  us,  and  wished  me 
to  be  candid  with  him.  for  he  was  “ my  friend.”  “ God 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


103 


said  he)  will  deal  with  you,  as  you  deal  with  me.”  I 
•ersisted  in  asserting  that  I had  a friend  at  Swearah,  who 
would  advance  any  sum  of  money  I needed,  and  answer- 
d his  other  questions  as  well  as  I was  able  ; evading  some 
1 did  not  choose  to  answer,  pretending  1 did  not  under- 
tand  them.  “Will  you  buy  Clark  and  Burns?  (said 
be,)  they  are  good  for  nothing.”  They  certainly  cid 
:>ok  worse,  if  possible,  than  the  rest  of  us.  1 told  him 
ley  were  my  countrymen,  and  my  brothers,  and  that  he 
light  depend  upon  it  1 would  ransom  them,  if  he  would 
nrry  us  to  the  empire  of  Morocco  and  to  the  Sultan, 
No,  (said  he,)  the  Sultan  will  not  pay  for  you,  but  I 
/ill  carry  you  to  Swearah  to  j our  friend  : what  is  his 
1 ante  ?”  “ Consul,”  said  I.  It  seemed  to  please  him  to 
near  me  name  my  friend  so  readily;  and  after  teaching 
le  to  count  in  Arabic,  and  by  my  fingers  up  to  twenty, 
which  was  ashreen ,)  he  told  me  I must  give  him  two 
hundred  dollars  for  myself,  two  hundred  dollars  for 
lorace,  and  for  the  others  I must  pay  one  hundred  dol- 
r .rs  each — showing  me  seven  dollars  he  had  about  him,  to 
:s  e certain  that  we  understood  each  other  perfectly  ; and 
]<  e next  made  me  understand  that  I must  pay  for  our 
revisions  on  the  road,  over  and  above  this  sum.  He 
len  made  me  point  out  the  way  to  Swearah,  which  I 
ras  enabled  to  do  by  the  sun  and  trade  wind,  making  it 
bout  N.  E.  “ Now,  (said  he,)  if  you  w ill  agree  before 
iod  the  most  High,  to  pat  what  I have  stated,  in  money, 
ad  give  me  a double-barrelled  gun,  I will  take  you  up 
) Swearah  ; if  not,  I will  carry  you  off  that  way,”  point- 
ig  to  the  S.  E.  “ and  sell  you  for  as  much  as  I can  get, 
loner  than  carry  you  up  across  this  long  desert,  where 
e must  risk  our  lives  every  day  for  your  sakes  ; and  if 
i ou  cannot  comply  with  your  agreement  and  we  get  there 
ife,  we  must  cut  your  throat  and  sell  your  comrades  fox 
llrhat  they  will  bring.”  I assured  him  that  I had  told  him 
ie  truth,  and  called  God  to  witness  the  sincerity  of  my 
pientions,  not  in  the  least  doubting  if  I could  once  ar- 
ve  there,  I should  find  some  one  able  and  willing  to  pay 
te  sum  they  demanded.  “ You  shall  go  to  Swearah, 
said  he,  taking  me  by  the  hand,)  if  God  please.”  Hq 
xen  showed  me  the  broken  pieces  of  my  watch,  and  a 


104 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


plated  candlestick,  which  he  said  he  had  bought  fror 
some  person  who  had  come  from  the  wreck  of  my  vesse 
The  candlestick  had  belonged  to  Mr.  Williams.  He  sai 
he  bought  the  articles  before  he  saw  me,  and  wished  t 
know  what  they  were  worth  in  Swearah  : I satisfied  hir 
as  well  as  I could  on  this  point.  During  this  conversatio 
we  kept  walking  on  about  east,  as  the  bed  of  the  river  ra; 
near  the  northern  bank,  which  was  very  high,  and  Sid 
Hamet  looked  at  me  as  if  his  eye  would  pierce  my  ver 
soul,  to  ascertain  the  secrets  of  my  heart,  and  discove 
whether  I was  deceiving  him  or  not ; and  he  became  sat 
isfied  that  I was  sincere. 

By  this  time  we  had  arrived  nearly  opposite  the  plao 
where  he  calculated  the  spring  was,  and  his  brother  am 
Abdallah  being  not  far  off,  he  hailed  them  to  know  if  the} 
had  found  it ; to  which  they  answered  in  the  negative 
After  searching  about  an  hour  in  the  bank,  he  discoverer 
it,  and  calling  to  me,  for  I was  below,  bade  me  come  uj 
to  where  he  was,  at  the  foot  of  a perpendicular  cliff,  jl 
clambered  up  over  the  fragments  of  great  rocks  that  hat 
fallen  down  from  above,  as  fast  as  my  strength  would  per 
mit,  and  having  reached  the  spot,  and  seeing  no  signs  o 
water,  the  tears  flowed  fast  down  my  cheeks,  for  I con 
eluded  the  spring  was  dried  up,  and  that  we  must  now  in 
evitably  perish.  Sidi  Hamet  looked  at  me,  and  saw  my 
tears  of  despair — “ Look  down  there,”  said  he,  (pointing 
through  a fissure  in  the  rock.)  I looked  and  saw  water, 
but  the  cleft  was  too  narrow  to  admit  of  a passage  to  it : 
then  showing  me  another  place,  about  ten  or  fifteen  yards 
distant,  where  I could  get  down  to  another  small  spring — 
“ Sherub  Riley,  (said  he,)  it  is  sweet.”  I soon  reached 
it,  and  found  it  sweet  indeed  ; and  taking  a copious 
draught,  I called  my  companions,  who  scrambled  along 
on  their  way  up,  exclaiming  with  great  eagerness,  “ Where 
is  the  water  ? for  God’s  sake ! where  is  it  ? Oh,  is  it 
sweet  ?”  I showed  it  to  them,  and  they  were  soon  con- 
vinced of  the  joyful  fact.  This  water  was  as  clear  and  as 
sweet  as  any  I had  ever  tasted. 

Sidi  Hamet  now  allow  ed  us  to  drink  our  fill,  while  Seid 
and  Abdallah  were  driving  the  four  camels  up  the  bank  by 
a zig-zag  kind  of  a foot  way,  from  which  the  stones  and 


165 


BUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 

sither  impediments  had  been  before  removed,  apparently 
ivith  great  trouble  and  labour.  This  spring,  the  most  sin- 
gular perhaps  in  nature,  was  covered  with  large  rocks,  fif- 
:eeti  to  twenty  feet  high,  only  leaving  a narrow  crooked 
, oassage  next  the  high  bank  behind  it,  by  which  a common 
sized  man  might  descend  to  get  at  it.  It  might  contain,  I 
should  calculate,  not  more  than  fifty  gallons  of  water  ; 
mol,  clear,  fresh,  and  sweet,  and  I presume  it  commu- 
ticated  with  the  one  that  was  first  shown  me  between  the 
•ocks,  which  was  much  smaller.  The  camels  had  been 
Iriven  to  within  fifty  yards  below  the  spring  ; our  masters 
hen  took  off  the  large  bowl  which  they  carried  for  the 
purpose  of  watering  the  camels  : then  bringing  a goat 
>kin  near  the  spring,  made  me  fill  it  with  the  water,  my 
hree  shipmates  passing  it  up  to  me  in  the  bowl.  I kept 
tdmonishing  my  companions  to  drink  with  moderation, 
)ut  at  the  same  time  1 myself  continued  to  take  in  large 
lraughts  of  this  delicious  water,  without  knowing  when 
o stop  ; in  consequence  of  which  I was  seized  with  vio- 
ent  pains  in  my  bowels,  but  soon  found  relief. 

It  was  here  that  I had  an  opportunity  of  ascertaining  the 
quantity  of  water  which  a camel  could  drink  at  one 
lraught.  We  filled  a large  goat  skin  fifteen  times,  con- 
aining  at  least  four  gallons,  and  every  drop  of  this  water 
vas  swallowed  down  by  our  largest  camel,  amounting  to 
he  enormous  quantity  of  sixty  gallons,  or  two  barrels. 
The  men  kept  crying  out,  “ Has  not  that  camel  done  yet  ? 
ie  alone  will  drink  the  spring  dry.’’''  It  was  in  effect 
Irained  very  low  ; but  still  held  out,  as  the  water  kept 
Continually  running  in,  thou  gif  slowly.  This  camel  was  a 
f 'ery  large  and  old  one,  about  nine  feet  high,  stout  in  pro- 
portion, and  had  not  drank  any  water  for  twenty  days,  as  I 
vas  informed  by  Sidi  Hamet : but  the  other  camels  did 
» lot  drink  as  much  in  proportion. 

Having  finished  watering  them,  we  filled  two  goat  skins 
vith  the  water,  which  had  now  become  thick  and  whitish  ; 
is  the  rock  in  which  the  bason  was  formed  for  holding  it, 
ippeared  to  be  chalky,  soft,  and  yielding.  We  descended 
his  bank,  and  after  preparing  the  camels,  we  were  mounted 
hereon,  and  proceeded  as  before,  but  along  to  the  east- 
\ vard.  in  this  arm  of  the  sea’s  bed.  I cal!  it  an  arm  of  the 

1 4- 


1' 06 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRA'nvE, 


sea,  because  there  could  be  no  doubt  in  the  mind  of  an ! 
one  who  should  view  it,  that  these  high  banks  were  wor 
and  washed  by  water  ; they  were  from  six  to  eight  or  te 
miles  distant  from  each  other,  and  the  level  bottom  wa 
incrusted  with  marine  salt.  The  bank  rises  four  or  fiv| 
hundred  feet,  and  nearly  perpendicular,  in  most  placesj 
The  broken  fragments  of  rock,  gravel,  and  sand,  that  hai 
been  undermined  by  the  water,  and  tumbled  down,  fillet 
a considerable  space  near  the  cliffs,  and  did  not  appear  t< 
have  been  washed  by  the  water  for  a great  number  of  years 
I could  not  account  for  the  incrustation  of  salt  (as  we  mus 
have  been  at  least  three  hundred  miles  from  the  sea ; thi:j 
bottom  or  bed  running  from  east  northwardly,  to  the  wes| 
or  S.  W.)  in  any  other  way,  than  by  supposing  the  se;| 
water  had  once  overflowed  this  level  ; that  it  had  since 
either  retired  from  that  part  of  the  coast,  or  formed  a baij 
across  its  mouth,  or  outlet,  and  thus  excluded  itself  en- 
tirely ; and  that  the  sea  air  combining  with  the  saline  de- 
posit or  sediment,  continued  this  incrustation. 

The  curious  and  interesting  springs,  before  mentioned 
are  situated  on  the  right  or  north  side  of  this  dry  bay  or 
river,  about  one  hundred  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
desert,  and  from  three  hundred  and  fifty  to  four  hundred- 
feet  from  the  bed  or  bottom.  There  was  not  the  smallest 
sign  of  their  ever  having  overflowed  their  basins  ; thereby^ 
leaving  it  a mystery  how  they  ever  should  have  been  dis- , 
covered,  as  there  was  no  rill  to  serve  as  a clue. 

Our  masters  now  hurried  on  to  the  eastward,  to  find  a 
place  to  emerge  from  this  dreary  abyss,  still  more  gloomy,  i 
if  possible,  than  the  face  of  the  desert.  As  we  passed  i 
along,  the  salt  crust  crumbled  under  the  feet  of  our  cam- 
els, like  the  thin  crust  of  snow.  We  came  at  length  to  a-j 
spot  in  the  bank  at  a kind  of  point,  where  we  ascended 
gradually  from  one  point  to  another,  until  within,  probably, 
two  hundred  feet  of  the  top  ; here  we  were  obliged  to  dis- 
mount, and  drive,  coax,  and  encourage  the  camels  to  go 
up.  The  ascent  was  very  steep,  though  in  zig-zag  direc- 
tions, and  the  flat  rock  over  which  the  camels  were  forced 
to  climb,  threw  them  down  several  times,  when  our  mas- 
ters would  encourage  them  to  get  up  again,  by  singing 
and  making  repeated  trials  ; helping  them  over  the  bad. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


SO? 


places  ’by  a partial  lifting,  and  begging  the  assistance  of 
God  and  his  prophet  most  fervently,  as  well  as  of  all  the 
] saints. 

Having  at  length  reached  the  surface  of  the  desert,  they 
stopped  a few  minutes  to  let  the  camels  breathe,  and  also 
hat  we  might  come  up,  for  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark  could 
lot  keep  pace  with  the  rest  of  us,  on  account  of  their 

iievere  pains  in  consequence  of  overcharging  their  stom- 
lchs  with  water.  The  desert  here  had  the  same  smooth 
tppearance  we  had  before  observed  : no  rising  of  the 
: ground,  nor  any  rock,  tree,  or  shrub,  to  arrest  the  view 
vithin  the  horizon — all  was  a dreary,  solitary  waste,  and 
re  could  not  but  admire  and  wonder  at  the  goodness  of 
Providence  in  providing  a reservoir  of  pure  fresh  water, 
o quench  the  thirst  of  the  traveller  and  his  camel,  in  this 
Iry,  salt,  and  torrid  region,  and  we  felt  an  inexpressible 
ratitude  to  the  Author  of  our  being,  for  having  directed 
>ur  masters  to  this  spot,  where  our  lives  had  been  pre- 
erved  and  refreshed  by  the  cool  delicious  spring,  which 
eemed  to  be  kept  there  by  a continual  miracle. 

We  had  not  gone  more  than  eight  miles  from  the  bank, 
in  a N.  W.  direction,)  before  we  stopped  for  the  night  : 
lere  we  found  no  lee  to  screen  us  from  the  strong  winds, 
or  bush  for  the  camels  to  browse  on.  I reckon  we  had 
ravelled  live  hours  this  morning,  at  the  rate  of  seven 
ailes  an  hour,  before  reaching  the  bank,  and  five  miles 
fter  getting  down  it,  before  we  came  to  the  spring  ; 
aaking  it  forty  miles  to,  and  ten  miles  from  the  spring  to 
/here  we  halted  for  the  night,  so  that  this  day’s  march 
was  all  together  at  least  fifty  miles. 

The  dry  bed  or  bottom  before  mentioned,  had  proba- 
bly been  an  inlet  or  arm  of  the  sea  that  never  was  explor- 
d by  Europeans,  or  any  other  civilized  men  ; yet  it  must 
lave  had  an  outlet  .;  and  that  outlet  must  be  to  the  south- 
ward of  us,  and  if  so,  its  mouth  must  have  been  at  least 
bree  hundred  miles  distant. 

Here  we  ate  the  remainder  of  our  camel’s  meat : — we 
ad  no  milk ; for  neither  of  our  masters’  camels  yielded 
ny,  and  our  share  of  meat  was  not  more  than  about  an 
nnce  each. 

I judged  by  the  height  of  the  north  star  above  the  horn 


108 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


zon  that  wc  were  about  in  the  latitude  of  twenty  degree; 
north.  I now  experienced  that  to  have  only  one  wan 
supplied,  made  us  feel  the  others  as  less  supportable  thar 
before  ; for  although  we  had  drank  as  much  fresh  water  a; 
we  could  contain,  and  our  thirst  was  in  a great  measure 
allayed,  still  w’e  were  rendered  extremely  uneasy  by  the 
gnawings  of  hunger,  which,  together  with  our  suffering; 
from  the  cold  and  piercing  winds,  made  this  a long  air? 
restless  night*. 


CHAPTER  Xi. 


Journeying  on  the  Desert— -they  are  hospitably  entertainer 
by  Arabs , and  come  to  a well  of  fresh  water . 


of  the  30th  we  started  very  early ; 


taking  out 


On  the 

three  of  us  rode,  while  the  other  two  walked  ; 
turns  every  three  hours,  or  thereabouts.  They  let  the 
camels  walk  all  this  day,  but  their  long  legs,  and  the  re- 
freshment they  had  enjoyed  at  the  spring,  enabled  them  to 
fifp.n  aloncr  gn  fnst  rmrl  hriKklv.  that  those  of  ns  who  were 


step  along  so  fast  and  briskly,  that  those  of  us  who  were 
on  foot,  were  obliged  to  be  on  a continual  small  trot  in 
order  to  keep  up  with  them : the  wind  at  the  same  time 
blowing  very  strong  directly  against  us,  and  our  course 
being  nearly  N.  W. 

About  two  o’clock,  P.  M.  Sidi  Iiamet  said  to  me, 
“ Riley,  shift  Gemel (I  see  a camel ;)  he  was  very  much 
rejoiced  at  it,  and  so  were  his  companions  ; but  neither  I 
nor  my  companions  could  perceive  any  thing  of  the  kind 
above  the  horizon  for  two  hours  after  this.  Our  masters 
had  altered  their  course  to  about  east,  and  at  length  we 
all  saw  a camel,  appearing  like  a speck  in  the  horizon,  but 
we  did  not  reach  the  travellers,  who  were  with  a large 
drove  of  camels,  until  sunset.  Having  come  up  with  the 
men,  they  invited  our  masters  to  go  home  with  them  ; the 
invitation  was  accepted,  and  we  drove  our  camels  along, 
following  them  as  they  went  towards  their  tents  : — it  was 
dark  and  quite  late  before  we  reached  them,  which  were 
four  in  number. 


BUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


109 


We  stopped  at  a small  distance  from  the  tents,  and 
vere  obliged  to  pluck  up  a few  scattered  shrubs,  not 
hicker  than  a straw,  to  make  a fire  with.  Our  masters 
lad  given  us  neither  meat  nor  drink  this  day.  I begged 
or  some  water,  and  they  gave  us  each  a very  scanty 

Ilrink.  We  had  travelled  full  fourteen  hours  this  day,  and 
it  the  rate  of  about  three  miles  an  hour,  making  a dis- 
ance  of  about  forty  miles.  We  were  now  in  a most  pit- 
■ous  situation,  extremely  chafed  and  worn  down  with  our 
various  and  complicated  sufferings,  and  were  now  to  lie 
>n  the  hard  ground  without  the  smallest  screen — not  even 
jt  spot  of  sand  on  which  to  rest  our  wearied  limbs  ; we 
lad  been  promised,  however,  something  to  eat  by  our 
lost,  and  about  11  o’clock  at  night  Sidi  Hamet  called 
ne  and  gave  me  a bowl  containing  some  boiled  meat, 

' vhich  I divided  into  five  heaps,  and  we  cast  lots  for  them. 
This  meat  was  very  tender,  and  there  was  just  enough  of 
t to  fill  our  stomachs  : after  eating  this,  we  had  scarcely 
ain  down  when  they  brought  us  a large  bowl  filled  with 
nilk  and  water.  This  was  indeed  sumptuous  living,  not- 
vithstanding  our  pains  and  the  severely  cold  night  wind. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  October  we  were  roused 
jp  early  to  pursue  our  journey.  Sidi  Hamet  then  called 
ne  aside,  and  gave  me  to  understand  that  this  man  had 
*ot  my  spy- glass,  and  wanted  to  know  what  it  was  worth. 
1 requested  him  to  show  it  to  me,  which  he  did  : it  was 
i new  one  I had  bought  in  Gibraltar,  and  it  had  not  been 
njured.  The  Arab  owner,  though  he  did  not  know  the 
jse  of  it,  yet  as  the  brass  on  it  glittered,  he  thought  it 
tvas  worth  a vast  sum  of  money.  Sidi  Hamet  had  only 
seven  dollars  in  money,  having  invested  the  rest  of  his 
Droperty  in  the  purchasing  of  us,  and  was  not  able  to  buy 
:he  glass  ; — -his  fancy  was  as  much  taken  with  it,  however, 
f as  was  that  of  the  owner.  They  had  also  several  articles 
> of  clothing  in  their  possession,  which  gave  me  reason  to 
infer  that  we  could  not  be  a great  distance  from  the  place 
' where  our  vessel  was  wrecked  ; but  there  was  no  method 
t of  calculating  to  any  degree  of  certainty,  as  they  all  move 
l with  such  rapidity  in  their  excursions,  that  they  seem  not 
1 to  know  whither,  or  what  distances  they  go,  nor  could  I 
|nd  out  any  thing  from  this  mail  concerning  the  wreck. 


no 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


Taking  our  leave  from  this  truly  hospitable  man,  we  pur 
sued  our  course  N.  W.  on  the  level  desert. 

Our  masters  had  been  very  uneasy  all  the  preceding 
day,  on  account  of  meeting  with  no  land  marks  to  direc1 
their  course  : they  were  in  the  same  dilemma  this  day 
directing  their  camels  by  the  winds  and  bearing  of  the 
sun  ; frequently  stopping  and  smelling  the  sand,  whenevei 
they  came  to  a small  sandy  spot,  which  now  and  then  oc- 
curred,  but  we  did  not  come  across  any  loose  drifting 
sand.  We  took  turns  in  riding  and  walking,  or  rather  , 
trotting,  as  we  had  done  the  day  before,  until  the  after- 
noon,  when  our  masters  walked,  (or  rather  ran,)  and  per- 
mitted us  to  ride. 

About  four  o’clock  P.  M.  we  saw,  and  soon  fell  in 
with  a drove  of  camels,  that  had  been  to  the  northward 
for  water,  and  were  then  going  in  a S.  W.  direction  with 
skins  full  of  water,  and  buckets  for  drawing  and  watering 
the  camels : their  owners  very  civilly  invited  our  masters 
to  take  up  their  lodgings  with  them  that  night,  and  we 
went  in  company  with  them  about  two  hours  to  the  south, 
where  falling  in  with  a very  extensive  but  shallow  valley, 
we  saw  about  fifty  tents  pitched,  and  going  into  the  largest 
dear  place,  unloaded  and  fettered  our  camels,  to  let  them 1 
browse  on  the  leaves  and  twigs  of  the  small  shrubs  that 
grew  there,  or  on  the  little  low  moss,  with  which  the ! 
ground  was,  in  many  places,  covered.  As  we  went  along1 
near  the  tents,  the  men  and  women  called  me  el  Rais , and 
soon  gathered  around  with  their  children  to  look  at  us,  and 
to  wonder.  Some  inquired  about  my  country,  my  vessel, 
my  family,  &c.  Having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they 
left  us  to  gather  sticks  to  kindle  our  masters’  fire  ; this 
done,  we  found,  after  considerable  search,  a soft  spot  of 
sand  to  lie  down  upon,  where  we  slept  soundly  until  about 
midnight,  when  we  were  aroused,  and  each  of  us  pre- 
sented with  a good  drink  of  milk  : this  refreshed  us,  and 
we  slept  the  remainder  of  the  night,  forgetting  our  sores 
and  our  pains.  I reckon  we  had  travelled  this  last  day 
about  forty  miles,  on  a course  of  about  N.  W. 

On  the  2d  of  October  we  set  out,  in  company  with  all 
these  families,  and  went  north  fifteen  or  twenty  miles, 
when  they  pitched  their  tents,  and  made  up  a kind  of  a 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


Ill 


shelter  for  our  masters  with  two  pieces  of  tent  cloth  joined 
together  by  thorns,  and  supported  by  some  sticks.  Our 
, masters  gave  us  a good  drink  of  water  about  noon,  and  at 
r midnight  milk  was  brought  from  all  quarters,  and  each  of 
; us  had  as  much  as  he  could  swallow,  and  actually  swallow- 
ed more  than  our  poor  stomachs  could  retain, 
r The  tribe  did  not  move,  as  is  customary,  on  the  2d  of 
October,  waiting,  as  Sidi  Hamet  said,  for  the  purpose  of 
: easting  us.  They  gave  us  as  much  milk  as  we  could 
Irink  on  the  night  of  the  second.  Here  our  masters  bought 
r i sheep,  of  which  animals  this  tribe  had  about  fifty,  and 
hey  were  the  first  we  had  seen  ; but  they  were  so  poor, 
hat  they  could  with  difficulty  stand  and  feed  upon  the 
irown  moss  which  covered  part  of  the  face  of  the  valleys 
lereabouts,  and  which  moss  was  not  more  than  one  inch 
ligh.  This  tribe,  not  unlike  all  the  others  we  had  seen, 
ock  no  nourishment,  except  one  good  drink  of  milk  at 
. nidnight,  and  a drink  of  sour  milk  and  water  at  mid-day, 

■(  vhen  they  could  get  it. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  October,  our  masters 
ook  leave  of  this  hospitable  tribe  of  Arabs,  who  not  only 
: ed  them,  but  seemed  desirous  that  we,  them  slaves,  should 
ii  lave  sufficient  nourishment  also,  and  gave  us  liberally  of 
he  best  they  had.  Our  masters  had  made  a trade  with 
t hem,  and  exchanged  our  youngest  camel  for  an  old  one 
> hat  was  lame  in  his  right  fore  foot,  and  one  that  was  not 
nore  than  half  grown.  The  old  one  they  called  Coho,  (or 
he  lame,)  and  the  young  one  Goyette , (or  the  little  child.) 
The  sheep  our  masters  purchased  was  tied  about  the  neck 
i pith  a rope,  and  1 was  obliged  to  lead  it  until  about  noon, 
ii)  phen  we  came  to  a low  valley,  with  some  small  bushes 
a it : in  the  midst  there  was  a well  of  tolerable  good  wa- 
-r.  Here  we  watered  the  camels,  and  as  the  sheep  could 
;o  no  farther,  they  killed  it,  and  put  its  lean  carcass  on  a 
amel,  after  placing  its  entrails  (which  they  would  not 
llow  me  time  to  cleanse)  into  the  carcass.  This  well 
pas  about  forty  feet  deep,  and  dug  out  among  the  big 
urrounding  roots. 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE 


112 


CHAPTER  XII. 

They  arrive  amongst  immense  mountains  of  driving  sand- 

Their  extreme  sufferings — Their  masters  find  and  ste< 

some  barley , and  restore  it  again. 

Having  watered  our  camels,  and  filled  two  skins  wit 
water,  and  drank  as  much  as  we  needed,  they  mounte 
Horace  on  the  young  camel,  and  all  the  others  being  als 
mounted,  we  proceeded  on  towards  the  N.  W.  at  a Ion 
walk,  and  sometimes  a trot,  driving  the  old  lame  cam< 
before  us  until  dark  night,  and  I think  we  travelled  thirty 
five  miles  this  day.  The  entrails  of  the  sheep  tvere  noi 
given  us  for  our  supper ; these  we  roasted  on  a fire  w 
made  for  the  purpose,  and  ate  them,  while  our  master 
finished  two  of  the  quarters. 

We  lay  this  night  without  any  screen  or  shelter,  am 
early  in  the  morning  of  the  4th,  we  set  off  on  our  journey 
all  on  foot,  driving  our  camels  before  us,  on  the  sam 
kind  of  flat  surface  we  had  hitherto  travelled  over : bu 
about  10  A.  M.  it  began  to  assume  a new  aspect,  an< 
become  sandy.  The  sand  where  we  first  entered  it,  la; 
in  small  loose  heaps,  through  which  it  was  very  difficuf 
to  walk,  as  we  sank  in  nearly  to  our  knees  at  each  step 
this  sand  was  scorching  hot.  The  camels  were  now  stop 
ped,  and  all  of  us  mounted  on  them,  when  on  their  rising 
up,  we  saw  before  us  vast  numbers  of  immense  sand  hills 
stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  eastward,  and  from 
the  north  to  the  south,  heaped  up  in  a most  terrific  man. 
ner  ; we  soon  arrived  among  them,  and  were  struck  with 
horror  at  the  sight : — huge  mountains  of  loose  sand,  piled 
up  like  drifted  snow,  towered  two  hundred  feet  above  out 
heads  on  every  side,  and  seemed  to  threaten  destruction  tc 
our  whole  party  : not  a green  or  even  a dry  bush  or  shrub 
of  any  kind  in  view  to  relieve  the  eye  ; here  was  no  path 
to  guide  our  footsteps,  nor  had  we  a compass  to  direct  our 
course,  obstructed  by  these  dreadful  barriers.  The  trade 
winds,  which  had  hitherto  given  us  so  much  relief  on  our 
journey,  by  refreshing  our  bodies  when  heated  by  the 
rays  of  an  almost  perpendicular  sun,  and  which  had  served. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


113 

in  some  measure,  to  direct  our  course — even  these  winds, 
which  now  blew  like  a tempest,  became  our  formidable 
enemy  : — the  loose  sand  flew  before  its  blasts,  cutting 
. our  flesh  like  hail  stones,  and  very  often  covering  us  from 
, each  other’s  sight,  while  the  gusts  (which  followed  each 
other  in  quick  succession)  were  rushing  by. 

We  were  here  obliged  to  dismount,  and  drive  the  camels 
; up  the  sandy  steeps  after  our  masters,  who  went  on  be- 
t 'ore  to  look  out  a practicable  passage.  The  camels,  as 
.veil  as  ourselves,  trod  deep  in  the  sand,  and  with  great 
lifliculty  ascended  the  hills  ; but  they  went  down  them 
2 /ery  easily,  and  frequently  on  a long  trot,  following  our 
masters  Sidi  Hamet,  Seid,  and  Abdallah,  seemed  full 
>f  apprehensions  for  their  own  and  our  safety,  and  were 
, /ery  careful  of  their  camels. 

Thus  we  drove  on  until  dark,  when  coming  to  a space 
vhere  the  sand  was  not  so  much  heaped  up,  being  like  a 
ake  surrounded  by  mountains,  we  saw  a few  shrubs  : 
lere  we  stopped  for  the  night,  unloaded  and  fettered  our 
:amels,  whose  appetites  were  as  keen,  apparently,  as  ours, 
or  they  devoured  the  few  leaves,  together  with  the  shrubs, 
ivhich  were  as  thick  as  a.  man’s  finger.  We  next  pre- 
pared a kind  of  shelter  with  the  saddles  and  some  sand 
or  our  masters  and  ourselves,  to  keep  oft'  in  some  meas- 
ure the  fierce  and  chilling  blasts  of  wind,  and  the  driving 
and  which  pierced  our  sores  and  caused  us  much  pain, 
flaving  kindled  a fire,  our  masters  divided  the  meat  that 
emained  of  the  sheep  : — It  was  sweet  to  our  taste, 
lough  but  a morsel,  and  we  pounded,  chewed,  and 
wallowed  all  the  bones,  and  afterwards  got  a drink  of 
/ater  : — then  lying  down  on  the  sand,  we  had  a comfort 
ble  night’s  sleep,  considering  our  situation.  I reckon 
/e  had  made  thirty- five  miles  this  day,  having  travelled 
bout  eight  hours  before  we  got  among  the  heavy  sand 
ills,  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour,  and  five  hours 
mong  the  sand  hills,  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour. 
V e were  all  afflicted  with  a most  violent  diarrhoea,  brought 
n,  no  doubt,  by  excessive  drinking  and  fatigue. 

At  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  5 th,  I was  ordered 
i fetch  the  camels,  and  took  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark  with 
le ; and  the  two  old  ones  being  fettered,  that  is,  their 

15 


114 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


two  fore  legs  being  tied  within  twelve  inches  of  eacl 
other,  they  could  not  wander  far ; we  soon  found  them 
and  I made  the  one  I found  kneel  down,  and  havins 
taken  off  its  fetters,  mounted  it  with  a good  stick  in  mi 
hand  for  its  government,  as  the  Arabs  of  the  desert  us< 
neither  bridle  nor  halter,  but  guide  and  drive  them  alto 
gether  with  a stick,  and  by  words.  Mr.  Savage  having 
found  the  big  camel,  took  off  his  fetters,  intending  tej 
make  him  kneel  down  in  order  to  get  on  his  back  ; but  the 
old  lame  camel,  which  had  hitherto  carried  no  load,  ant 
which  had  occasioned  us  much  trouble,  in  forcing  him  t< 
keep  up  with  the  others,  when  on  our  march,  now  set  ol 
on  a great  trot  to  the  south  : — the  young  one  followed  hi 
example,  so  did  Abdallah’s,  and  the  big  one  started  also 
running  at  their  greatest  speed.  Seeing  the  panic  of  tin 
other  camels,  I endeavoured  to  stop  them  by  riding  be 
fore  them  with  my  camel,  which  was  the  most  active  ant 
fleet ; but  they  would  not  stop — dodging  me  every  way 
my  camel  also  tried  to  get  rid  of  its  load  by  running 
jumping,  lying  down,  rolling  over,  and  striving  to  bit< 
my  legs  ; but  1 made  shift  to  get  on  again  before  he  couk 
rise,  and  had  got  some  miles  Irom  where  1 had  started 
keeping  near,  and  frequently  before  the  other  camels 
which  appeared  to  be  very  much  frightened.  Our  mas 
ters  had  watched  us,  and  when  the  camels  set  off,  hac 
started  on  a full  run  after  them  ; but  had  been  hid  fron 
my  view  by  the  numerous  sand  hills,  over  and  among 
which  we  passed. — Finding  I could  not  stop  the  others 
and  fearing  I should  be  lost  myself,  I stopped  the  one  i; 
was  on,  and  Sidi  Hamet  soon  coming  in  sight,  called  t( 
me  to  make  my  camel  lie  down.  He  mounted  it,  ant 
after  enquiring  which  way  the  other  camels  went,  (whicl 
were  now  out  of  sight,)  and  telling  me  to  follow  his  track: 
back  to  our  stuff,  he  set  off  after  them  on  full  speed 
Seidand  Abdallah  followed  him  on  foot,  running  as  fas 
as  possible.  I returned  ; and  picking  up  a few  skins  tha 
had  jolted  off  from  the  little  camel,  I joined  Mr.  Savage 
and  Clark,  and  we  reached  the  place  where  we  had  slept 
but  much  fatigued  ; and  here  we  remained  for  two  oi 
three  hours  before  our  masters  returned  with  the  cam 
els. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


115 


We  bad  during  this  interval  tasted  the  bark  of  the  roots 
I of  the  shrubs  which  grew  on  the  sand  near  us — it  was 
bitter,  but  not  ill  flavoured,  and  we  continued  to  eat  of  it 
until  the  runaway  camels  were  brought  back ; it  entirely 
cured  our  diarrhoea.  They  had  overtaken  the  camels 
with  much  difficulty,  and  the  creatures  were  covered  with 
sweat  and  sand.  I expected  we  should  receive  a flog- 
ging as  an  atonement  for  our  carelessness  in  letting  the 
big  camel  go,  that  had  been  fettered,  and  in  particular, 
that  Mr.  Savage  would  be  punished,  whom  I did  not 
doubt  they  had  seen,  when  he  let  his  camel  escape.  So 
as  soon  as  they  got  nigh,  I began  to  plead  for  him  ; but 
it  was  all  to  no  purpose,  for  they  whipped  him  with  a 
thick  stick  (or  goad)  most  unmercifully.  Mr.  Savage 
did  not  beg  as  I should  have  done  in  our  situation,  and  in 
;a  similar  case,  and  they  believed  he  bad  done  it  expressly 
to  give  them  trouble,  and  continued  to  call  him  Font/, 
fi.  e.  a bad  fellow,)  all  the  remaining  part  of  the  journey. 
Having  settled  this  affair,  and  put  what  stuff  they  had  on 
the  camels,  we  mounted  them  and  proceeded, — shaping 
our  course  as  before,  to  the  N.  N.  W.  as  near  as  the 
mountains  of  sand  would  permit.  It  was  as  late  as  nine 
o’clock  when  we  started,  and  at  eleven,  having  made 
iabout  three  leagues,  winding  round  the  sand  hills  on  a 
trot,  we  were  obliged  to  dismount.  The  hills  now  stood 
so  thick,  that  great  care  was  necessary  to  prevent  getting 
the  camels  into  an  inextricable  situation  between  them, 
and  our  masters  went  on  ahead,  two  of  them  at  a con- 
fsiderable  distance,  to  pick  the  way,  and  one  to  direct  us 

I how  to  go  : — -the  latter  keeping  all  the  time  in  sight. 
The  sand  was  heated  (as  it  had  been  the  preceding  day) 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  to  such  a degree  that  it  burned 
our  feet  and  legs,  so  that  the  smart  was  more  severe  than 
the  pain  we  had  before  experienced,  from  our  blisters 
! and  chafing  : — it  was  like  wading  through  glowing  em- 
bers. 

During  the  whole  of  this  day,  we  had  looked  for 
shrubs,  or  some  green  thing  to  relieve  the  eye  ; but  not 
a speck  of  verdure  was  to  be  seen.  We  had  no  food  ; 
our  water  was  nearly  exhausted,  and  we  saw  no  sign  of 
finding  an  end  to  these  horrid  heaps  of  drifting  sands,  or 


116 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


of  procuring  any  thing  to  relieve  our  fatigues  and  suffer! 
ings,  which  were  now  really  intolerable.  We  continue! 
on  our  route,  however,  as  near  as  circumstances  woulc 
permit,  N.  N.  W.  until  about  nine  o’clock  in  the  eve 
ning,  and  stopped  to  rest  among  the  high  and  dreary  sam 
heaps,  without  a shrub  for  our  camels  to  eat.  I calcu  * 
fated  we  had  gone  this  day  from  9 to  1 1 o’clock,  twelv 
miles,  and  from  that  time  till  we  stopped,  about  twc 
miles  an  hour,  making  in  all  thirty-two  miles.  We  had 
nothing  to  eat ; our  masters  however  gave  us  a drink  o; 
water,  and  being  fatigued  beyond  description,  we  soor 
sank  down  and  fell  asleep.  I happened  to  awake  in  the  I 
night,  and  hearing  a heavy  roaring  to  the  northward  ol 
us,  concluded  it  must  be  a violent  gust  of  wind,  or  si 
hurricane,  that  would  soon  bury  us  in  the  sand  for  ever.! 
I therefore  immediately  awakened  my  companions,  who 
were  more  terrified  at  the  noise  even  than  myself,  fora! 
few  moments  ; but  when  we  perceived  that  the  sound! 
came  no  nearer,  I was  convinced  (as  the  wind  did  not! 
increase)  that  it  must  be  the  roaring  of  the  sea  against  the1 
coast  not  far  off.  This  was  the  first  time  we  had  heard'1 
the  sea  roar  since  the  10th  of  September  ; and  it  proved! 
to  us  that  our  masters  were  going  towards  the  empire  of  '! 
Morocco,  as  they  had  promised.  -My  comrades  were! 
much  rejoiced  at  being  undeceived  on  that  subject,  for1 
they  had  all  along  continued  to  suspect  the  contrary,  not- 1 
withstanding  I had  constantly  told  them  that  the  courses  ! 
we  steered  could  not  fail  of  bringing  us  to  the  coast.  On  ' 
the  sixth,  early  in  the  morning,  we  started,  and  I found, 
by  inquiring  of  Sidi  Hamet,  that  our  conjectures  were 1 
true;  that  we  were  near  the  sea,  and  that  the  roaring  we 
heard  (and  which  still  continued)  was  that  of  the  surf : 
he  added,  “ you  will  get  no  more  milk,”  which  I 
thought  he  regretted  very  much.  We  continued  on  our 
course,  labouring  among  the  sand  hills  until  noon,  when 
we  found,  that  on  our  right,  and  ahead,  they  became  less 
frequent,  but  on  our  left  there  was  a string  of  them,  and 
very  high  ones,  stretching  out  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  The  sand  hills  through  which  we  had  passed 
rested  on  the  same  hard  and  flat  surface  I have  before  men- 
tioned, without  being  attached  to  it ; for  in  many  places 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


117 


was  blown  off,  leaving  naked  the  rocks  and  baked  soil 
iijjetween  the  towering  drifts. 

)iif  About  noon  we  left  these  high  sands,  and  mounting  on 
■(he  camels,  proceeded  along  southward  of  them,  where 
at  ie  sand  was  still  deep,  but  not  high,  on  about  an  east 
ci  ourse.  Near  this  line  of  sand  hills,  our  masters  dis- 
i overed  two  camels — they  bore  about  N.  E.  and  we  made 
in  irectly  for  them  as  fast  as  possible.  On  a near  approach 
ie  observed  they  were  loaded,  and  our  masters  now  took 
ff  the  sheaths  from  their  guns  and  primed  them  anew  ; 
nd  upon  coming  near  the  camels,  they  dismounted  and 
5 hade  us  do  the  same.  We  saw  no  human  being. 

The  camels  had  large  sacks  on  their  backs,  made  of 
':nt  cloth,  and  well  filled  with  something  ; there  was  also 
i large  earthen  pot  lashed  on  one  of  them,  and  two  or 
siree  small  skin  bags.  Seid  and  Abdallah  drove  these 
iamels  on  with  ours,  observing  strict  silence,  while  Sidi 
lamet  was  searching  for  the  owner  of  them  with  his 
ouble  barrelled  gun,  cocked  and  primed.  Mr.  Savage 
ras  on  the  young  camel,  and  not  being  able  to  keep  up, 
'as  a mile  or  more  behind  ; when  Sidi  Haniet  found  the 
wiier  of  the  camels  asleep  on  the  sand  near  where  Mr. 
avage  was.  He  went  towards  him,  keeping  his  gun  in 
padiness  to  fire,  until  he  saw  the  other  had  no  firearms, 
nd  was  fast  asleep ; when  stepping  carefully  up,  he 
latched  a small  bag  from  near  the  sleeper’s  head,  and 
rent  slowly  away  with  it  until  past  the  fear  of  waking 

Iim.  He  then  assisted  in  driving  Mr.  Savage’s  camel 
Long,  and  they  soon  came  up  with  us,  where  Seid  and 
ibdallah  had  made  the  two  loaded  camels  lie  down  be- 
,veen  some  small  hillocks  of  sand.  They  untied  the 
louth  of  one  of  the  sacks,  and  behold  its  contents  were 
> arley  ! This  was  the  first  bread  stuff  we  had  seen,  and  it 
ave  us  new  hopes.  They  poured  out  about  fifty  pounds 
f it,  I should  guess,  and  put  into  a large  leather  bag  of 
teir  own  ; then  tying  up  the  neck  of  the  sack  again, 
pey  made  the  camels  get  up  with  their  loads.  They  now 
iegan  to  examine  the  contents  of  the  small  bags,  and 
lund  them  to  consist  of  a number  of  small  articles  : but 
be  one  that  was  taken  from  near  the  Arab’s  head  was  part- 
7 filled  with  barley  meal.  They  were  all  overjoyed  at 


118 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


this  discovery,  and  immediately  poured  out  some  of 
into  a bowl,  mixed  it  with  water,  and  ate  it ; then  givir 
us  about  a quart  of  water  between  us,  with  a handful 
this  meal  in  it,  making  a most  delicious  gruel,  they  hu 
ried  us  on  to  our  camels,  and  set  off  to  the  S.  E.  on  a lor 
trot,  leaving  the  strange  camels  to  themselves. 

We  had  not  proceeded  more  than  half  an  hour,  befo 
we  saw  a man  running  swiftly  in  chase  of  us,  and  hallo* 
ing  to  make  our  masters  stop  ; they  knew  he  must  be  tl 
owner  of  the  camels  they  had  robbed,  and  paid  no  oth< 
attention  to  him  than  to  push  on  the  camels  faster.  Siij 
Hamet  now  told  me  that  that  fellow  was  a “ poor  devil- 
he  has  not  even  a musket,”  said  he,  “ and  he  let  me  tal 
this  bag  while  he  was  asleep.”  The  man  gained  on  i 
very  fast.  I Avas  afraid  he  would  get  back  what  had  bee 
taken  from  him  by  our  masters,  especially  the  barley- 
so  were  my  shipmates ; one  of  whom  wished  he  had 
loaded  musket — saying,  “ I would  soon  stop  him  if  I ha 
one,  and  thus  save  the  barley.”  Our  masters  made  the 
signs  for  this  man  to  go  back,  but  he  continued  to  ac 
vance,  while  our  Arab  masters,  finding  he  would  com 
up,  kept  their  guns  cocked  in  their  hands,  and  ready  t 
fire  on  him,  though  he  had  no  other  arms  than  a scimitar 
and  drawing  near  they  halted  ; upon  which  the  strangei 
making  an  appeal  to  God,  and  boiving  himself  down  an 
worshipping,  declared  that  he  had  lost  a part  of  his  prc 
perty,  and  that  he  knew  they  must  have  taken  it ; that  hi 
Was  their  brother,  and  would  rather  die  than  commit 
bad  action,  or  suffer  others  to  do  it  with  impunity  : “ yoi 
have  firearms”  ( Celibeatahs ) said  he,  “and  believe  yoi 
can  kill  me  in  an  instant ; but  the  God  of  justice  is  m 
shield,  and  will  protect  the  innocent ; I do  not  fear  you.1 
Sidi  Hamet  then  told  him  to  leave  his  scimitar  where  h 
was,  and  approach  without  fear,  and  then  making  ou 
camels  kneel  down,  Ave  all  dismounted.  The  strange 
upon  this  came  forward  and  asked — “ Is  it  peace  ?”  “ I 
is,”  was  the  reply  of  Sidi  Hamet : they  then  saluted  eacl 
other  with — “ Peace  be  wuth  you — peace  be  to  you: 
house — to  all  your  friends,”  &c.  &c.  and  shaking  on< 
another  in  a most  cordial  manner  by  the  hand,  seatec 
themselves  in  a circle  on  the  ground.  After  a long  de- 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


219 


>ate,  in  which  our  masters  justified  themselves  for  having 

i aken  the  provision  without  leave,  because  we,  their 
,1  ;laves,  were  in  a state  of  starvation,  which  was  very  true, 
Jhey  added— “ you  would  not  have  refused  them  a mor- 
, ;el,  if  you  had  been  awake  !’?  and  it  was  thereupon  finally 

igreed,  to  restore  all  that  they  had  taken  : so  they  made 
fills  clear  a place  on  the  ground  that  was  hard,  and  pour 
,.  )ut  the  barley  from  our  bag.  They  also  gave  him  up  his 
, >ag  of  meal,  which  had  been  much  lightened,  and  a very 
, mall  bag,  which  i supposed  to  contain  opium  ; this  they 
aid  was  all  they  had  taken  ; then  alter  they  had  prayed 
|.  ogether,  we  all  mounted  our  camels  and  proceeded  on 
al  mr  journey.  Religion  and  honour  even  among  thieves? 

hought  I ! 
a 

>'■  ■ 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

ii 

- Continuation  of  the  Journeij  on  the  Desert — Several  singu- 
i,  lar  occurrences — 1 'hey  come  within  sight  of  the  Ocean . 

5 ; This  had  detained  us  about  an  hour  ; Mr.  Savage  was 
f put  on  the  old  camel,  which  still  continued  very  lame, 
i and  Horace  on  the  smallest.  These  camels  could  not 
eeep  pace  with  the  others,  and  both  Mr.  Savage  and. 
Horace  were  severely  flogged  for  what  our  masters  called 
; iad  management : though  the  true  reason  I suspected  was 
:he  loss  of  the  stolen  barley,  which  had  put  them  in  a 
oad  humour.  We  kept  on  to  the  east  as  fast  as  the  camels 
could  go,  until  late  in  the  evening;  when  hearing  the 
voices  of  men  hallooing  to  each  other  at  a short  distance 
on  our  left,  our  masters  seemed  much  frightened;  kept 
ill  still ; and  finding  a deep  hollow,  we  silently  descended 
its  steep  bank,  leaving  our  little  camel  with  his  legs  tied 
on  the  level  above,  as  he  was  so  far  worn  down  by  fa- 
tigue that  he  could  scarcely  walk.  When  we  got  to  the 
bottom  of  it,  we  found  a considerable  number  of  small 
bushes,  and  having  taken  the  saddles  from  off  the  camels 
and  fettered  their  fore  legs  together,  as  usual,  we  let  them 
go  to  feed.  I calculate  we  travelled  seven  hours  this  day. 


120 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


at  two  miles  an  hour,  among  the  sand  hills;  then  tv! 
hours  on  camels,  until  we  came  to  the  strange  ones,  ; 
the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour  including  two  stops,  s; 
two  hours ; then  from  four  until  about  ten  P.  M.  s 
hours,  at  five  miles  an  hour — total  this  day,  fifty-s: 
miles. 

As  soon  as  the  camels  were  fettered,  our  masters  e: 
amined  their  guns,  and  having  ascertained  that  they  we ! 
well  primed,  ascended  the  sand  hills  in  this  valley,  (fi 
there  was  much  drifted  sand  about  it  in  scattering  heap 
and  it  appeared  to  have  once  been  a river,  whose  bed  w; 
now  dry.)  They  bade  us  all  follow  them,  and  went  fir 
to  the  lowest  part  of  the  valley  ; then  ascending  the  steej 
sides  of  the  sand  drifts,  made  us  crawl  after  them  on  ot 
hands  and  knees.  After  they  had  gained  the  top,  an 
waiting  for  us  to  climb  up,  they  set  up  the  most  tremer 
dous  howling  I had  ever  before  heard — one  counterfeitinj 
the  tone  of  a tiger,  the  other  the  roar  of  a lion,  and  thi 
third  the  sharp  frightful  yell  of  a famished  wolf.  Ha  vim 
kept  up  this  concert  for  some  time,  they  again  proceeded 
mounting  and  descending,  and  searching  for  tracks,  &c. 

I was  much  terrified,  1 confess,  and  expected  the 
were  hunting  for  the  people  we  had  heard  halloo  when  w 
entered  the  valley,  to  rob  and  murder  them,  and  that  w 
were  to  share  their  danger  and  carry  their  spoil.  But  afte 
they  had  kept  us  mounting  and  descending  about  twt 
hours,  they  found  a snug  retreat  surrounded  on  all  side 
by  high  sand  drifts,  where  however  a few  small  bush© 
were  growing  : they  made  us  lie  down  in  the  deep  sand 
and  after  continuing  their  howlings  lor  about  half  an  hour 
bade  us  go  to  sleep,  which  we  much  needed,  as  our  la 
tigues  were  excessive  ; they  had  not  suffered  us  to  make 
the  least  noise  since  we  reached  the  valley,  nor  did  they 
themselves  make  any,  except  in  imitation  of  wild  fero- 
cious beasts.  I was  now  fully  persuaded  that  they  were 
actuated  by  feelings  of  fear  and  not  views  of  pmnder  in 
these  manoeuvres  ; and  taking  a station  with  their  guns 
in  their  hands  around  us,  as  if  afraid  they  shomd  lose  their 
slaves,  we  soon  forgot  our  troubles  in  the  arms  of  sleep, 
and  did  not  awake  until  the  morning  of  die  7th,  when  we: 
repaired  to  our  camels  and  found  every  thing  safe.  There 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


121 


were  more  camels,  which  we  saw  in  the  open  valley, 
browsing  upon  the  bushes,  which  grew  higher  here  than 
uny  we  had  hitherto  seen  ; they  were  of  a different  species, 
ind  not  clothed  with  long  thorns. 

Just  as  we  were  ready  to  set  off  on  cur  journey,  an  old 
woman  and  a boy  came  where  we  were  ; the  woman  ap- 
peared very  friendly,  made  enquiries  respecting  our  situa- 
ion,  and  if  our  masters  as  well  as  ourselves  were  not  hun- 
gry ; and  finding  that  we  were  indeed  in  want  of  food,  she 
;ent  off  her  boy,  who  soon  returned  with  the  boiled  re- 
nains  of  what  I conceived  to  have  been  a sheep  or  goat, 
consisting  of  the  entrails  and  a few  bones  ; of  these  our 
nasters  ate  the  greatest  part,  but  gave  us  the  remainder 
—that  is  to  say,  the  bones,  which  we  were  very  glad  to 
jet,  bare  as  they  were,  for  our  hunger  was  extreme. 

■ Having  gnawed  and  swallowed  this  hard  food,  and  drank 
bout  half  a pint  of  water  each,  coloured  with  sour  milk, 
vhich  the  old  woman  kindly  gave  us,  we  proceeded  on 
nr  journey,  mounting  this  dry  river’s  bed  or  gully,  which 
iad  been  acted  upon  by  water  at  no  very  remote  period. 
.Ve  here  saw  the  first  bushes  that  deserved  that  name, 

) ince  we  had  been  on  this  continent.  They  appeared  to  be 
i f the  wallow  kind,  some  of  them  as  large  as  a man’s  leg, 
find  about  fifteen  feet  in  height.  It  was  vdth  much  diffi- 
uity  the  camels  could  ascend  this  bank,  but  when  we  did 
: each  its  summit  we  found  ourselves  on  the  same  level 
lesert  as  we  had  before  travelled  on  : our  view  on  eveiy 
ide  was  bounded  only  by  the  distant  horizon,  except  on 
ur  left,  where  a long  string  of  sand  drifts  of  great  height 

■ itercepted  it.  Near  these  sand  hills  we  discovered  a man 
lounted  on  a camel  ; he  rode  swiftly  towards  us,  which 
ur  masters  observing,  while  he  was  yet  a great  way  off, 
ismounted  from  their  camels  to  wait  his  approach.  My- 
2lf  and  Mr.  Savage  were  on  foot,  making  the  best  of  our 
'ay  along.  We  saw  our  masters  dig  holes  in  the  sand, 
nd  bury  two  small  bags  which  they  had  stolen  from  the 
ranger  the  day  before,  at  the  time  they  helped  themselves 
> the  barley.  The  man  on  his  camel  soon  came  up,  and 
re  recognized  him  as  the  same  our  masters  had  plundered - 

' e had  followed  us  on,  and  now  told  them  thev  had  stolen 
is  goods  and  deceived  him  besides. 

16 


122 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


Our  masters  denied  the  charge,  and  after  showing  hir 
that  they  had  nothing  about  them  of  the  kind  he  describee 
told  him  to  satisfy  himself  fully  and  to  go  and  search  thei 
stuff  on  the  camels  ; protesting,  at  the  same  time,  the 
he  accused  them  wrongfully,  and  calling  God  to  witnes 
that  they  had  nothing  of  his  in  their  possession.  Th 
man  seemed  satisfied  with  their  protestations,  and  rode  o 
without  further  examination.  We  were  going  on  durin 
this  time,  and  they  remained  on  the  spot  to  dig  up  th 
treasure  after  its  owner  had  left  them.  When  they  cam 
up  with  us,  Sidi  Hamet  said  to  me,  “ That  fellow  wantel 
his  bags  and  things,  but  he  has  not  got  them  yet h 
then  showed  me  the  bags  and  their  contents.  There  wai 
a small  box  in  one  of  the  bags,  containing  opium  am 
several  hollow  sticks  of  the  thickness  of  a man’s  finger 
and  six  or  eight  inches  long  ; these  were  filled  with  what 
supposed  to  be  gold  dust.  The  other  bag  contained  to 
bacco  stalks,  and  the  roots  of  an  herb,  which  I afterward 
understood  to  be  a specific  remedy  for  evil  eyes,  or  witch 
craft ; this  they  esteemed  as  of  great  value,  even  mor 
than  the  gold  dust  and  opium  : the  natives  smoke  thi 
root  through  the  leg  or  thigh  bone  of  a sheep  or  goat,  the’ 
having  no  other  pipes,  and  then  conceit  themselves  invul 
nerable.  I confess  I was  not  pleased  at  the  discovery  o 
our  masters’  propensity  to  thieving,  and  could  not  hel] 
being  apprehensive  of  the  consequences  that  might  resul 
from  such  licentiousness,  affecting  our  safety  and  pros! 
pects  of  release.  We  travelled  fast  most  of  this  day,  ant; 
must  have  made  thirty-five  miles  on  about  an  E.  N.  E 
course.  It  was  late  when  we  stopped  for  the  night : we 
were  on  a hard  surface,  and  had  neither  shrub,  nor  indeet 
any  other  thing  to  fend  off  the  cold  night  wind,  whicl 
blew  extremely  fierce  from  the  N.  N.  E. 

October  the  8th,  we  started  very  early  and  rode  on  rap 
idly  until  the  afternoon,  when  some  camels’  tracks  wertj 
discovered,  at  which  our  masters  seemed  very  much  re 
joiced,  for  they  were  extremely  hungry  and  thirsty.  W< 
followed  these  tracks  until  about  four  P.  IVL  (they  being 
nearly  on  our  course,)  when  we  came  in  sight  of  a large 
drove  oi  camels  feeding  on  the  scattered  shrubbery  in  t 
small  shallow  valley,  with  a few  sheep  and  goats,  which 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


123 


| were  nibbling  a short  brown  moss,  not  more  than  an  inch 
in  height,  that  grew  round  about  in  spots.  After  clue 
salutations,  which  were  very  long  and  tedious,  the  owners 
of  the  flocks  and  herds  invited  our  masters  to  remain  with 
them  for  the  night,  which  may  well  be  supposed  was 
readily  accepted ; we  having  travelled  this  day  about  forty - 
five  miles.  They  showed  our  masters  the  way  to  their 
tents,  who,  after  bidding  us  to  follow,  set  off  for  them 
on  a full  trot.  We  readied  them  in  about  half  an  hours 
there  were  about  twenty  in  number — pitched  in  a little 
valley,  near  a small  thicket  of  thorn  trees.  1 call  them 
trees,  because  they  Mere  much  larger  than  any  vegetable 
productions  we  had  yet  seen  in  this  country — a few  of 
them  might  be  eight  inches  in  diameter.  Our  masters 
had  already  killed  a kid  they  had  bought,  and  were  em- 
ployed in  dressing  it ; which  being  prepared  and  boiled 
isoon  after  dark,  our  masters  gave  us  the  entrails,  which 
we  immediately  devoured,  though  not  cleaned,  and  nearly 
raw,  as  we  had  not  patience  to  wait  till  they  were  roasted 
sufficiently  : they  then  offered  some  of  the  meat  to  the 
Arabs,  who  were  sitting  around  them  on  the  ground  ; but 
as  they  only  came  to  gratify  their  curiosity  in  viewing  us, 
they  did  not  accept  of  any.  This  w7as  the  first  time  I had 
known  any  of  them  refuse  so  tempting  an  offer ; and  I 
could  not  but  consider  it  as  a favourable  omen,  and  that 
the  land  was  becoming  more  fertile  and  productive  as  we 
advanced  on  our  journey,  and  that  we  must  shortly  escape 
from  this  horrible  desert. 

After  Ave  had  swallowed  our  morsel,  these  people  gave 
each  of  us  a good  drink  of  water,  and  at  midnight  (the 
hour  set  apart  by  the  Arabs  for  taking  their  refreshment) 
they  awaked  me  and  gave  me  a bowl,  containing  proba- 
bly four  or  five  pounds  of  a kind  of  stirabout,  or  hasty 
pudding,  in  the  centre  of  which,  in  a hole  made  for  the 
purpose,  there  was  poured  a pint  or  more  of  good  sweet 
milk  : we  quickly  seated  ourselves  in  a circle  around  the 
bowl,  and  though  it  was  quite  hot,  we  swallowed  it  in  a 
moment.  This  was  the  most  delicious  food  I ever  tasted  ; 
the  effect  it  produced  on  my  palate  has  never  since  been 
effaced  from  my  memory,  and  my  companions  agreed 
with  me,  that  nothing  half  so  sweet  had  ever  before  eiy 


124 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


terecl  their  mouths ; and  as  we  all  took  it  up  with  oui 
hands,  each  one  accused  the  other  of  eating  like  a hog 
and  of  devouring  more  than  his  equal  share.  I endeav- 
oured to  convince  them  that  it  could  not  be  more  equally 
divided,  as  each  put  his  hand  to  his  mouth  as  fast  as  he 
could.  Notwithstanding  every  one,  by  the  irresistible1 
impatience  of  hunger,  burnt  his  mouth  and  throat,  yel 
this  dish  was  unspeakably  grateful;  for  hunger,  sufferings j 
and  fatigue  had  absolutely  reduced  us  to  skeletons  : it 
warmed  our  stomachs,  and  checked  the  dysentery,  which 
had  been  extremely  distressing  for  several  days  past.  This 
was  the  first  kind  of  bread  we  had  tasted  since  we  left 
the  wreck.  ! 

Our  masters  had  been  very  much  out  of  humour  (pro- 
bably owing  to  hunger)  for  several  days,  and  beat  my 
shipmates  oftentimes  most  unmercifully,  who,  in  their 
turn,  smarting  under  the  lash,  and  suffering  incredibly 
from  their  sores,  fatigues  and  privations,  became  as  cross 
as  wild  bears,  notwithstanding  I did  all  in  my  power  to 
lighten  their  burdens,  relieve  their  fatigues,  and  intercede 
for  and  beg  them  off  when  our  masters  were  about  to  beat 
them,  and  frequently  walking  that  they  might  ride  ; yet 
one  of  them  would  often  curse  me  to  my  face,  and  load 
me  with  the  most  opprobrious  epithets.  My  kindness 
seemed  but  to  inflame  his  petulance,  and  to  excite  in  him  | 
a strange  animosity,  so  that  in  the  ravings  of  his  distem- 1 
pered  imagination,  he  declared  that  he  hated  the  sight  of 
me,  and  that  my  very  smiles  were  more  cutting  to  him 
than  daggers  presented  to  his  naked  breast:  he  seemed 
indeed  to  be  transformed  into  a perfect  savage  in  disposi- 
tion, nor  did  this  rankling  humour  forsake  him  until  I 
showed  him  in  Suze  the  letter  l there  received  from  Mr. 
Wiltshire,  assuring  me  he  would  shortly  redeem  us  from 
slavery. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  we  set  forward  in  a 
northeasterly  direction,  and  having  travelled  about  ten 
hours  on  the  camels,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour, 
rve  came  to  a deep  well,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a cluster 
of  high  bushes ; here  was  a large  company  of  men  wa- 
tering many  droves  of  camels  that  were  round  about. 
These  people  saluted  our  masters  in  a friendly  manner, 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


125 


vhen  they  came  up.  I was  preparing  to  assist  in  drawing 
vater  for  our  camels,  but  Sidi  Hamet  would  not  permit 
ne  or  my  companions  to  work ; indeed  we  were  so  ex- 
remely  reduced  and  weak,  that  we  could  not  without 
lifficulty  stand  steady  on  our  feet,  though  (from  what 
ause  I know  not)  our  sores  were  fast  healing,  and  our 
: kins  uniting  in  all  parts  over  our  bodies. 

While  Seid  and  Abdallah  were  busied  in  drawing  water 
ar  our  camels,  an  Arab  came  up  with  one,  and  led  him 
o our  masters’  watering  tub  or  bowl,  which  Seid  ob- 
i erving,  bade  him  desist ; but  the  strange  Arab  swore  his 
; amel  should  drink  there,  and  he  (Seid)  should  draw 
rater  for  him.  This  kindled  the  resentment  of  Seid  ; he 
eft  his  bucket,  ran  up  to  the  Arab,  and  gave  him  a heavy 
>low  on  his  face  with  his  fist,  which  staggered  him  near 
o falling ; but  recovering  himself,  he  drew  his  scimitar, 
nd  made  a powerful  thrust  at  Seid,  who  saved  his  life 
>y  springing  suddenly  from  him,  and  the  scimitar  but 
lightly  pricked  his  breast.  Sidi  Hamet  had  by  this  time 
eized  and  unsheathed  his  gun,  and  presented  it  to  the 
Arab’s  breast  within  a yard’s  distance,  ready  to  blow  him 
hrough.  When  he  was  about  to  fire,  his  hand  was  seized 
>y  one  of  the  bystanders,  and  others  of  them  rushing 
uetween  the  combatants  to  prevent  bloodshed,  laid  hold 

!>f  Seid  and  his  antagonist,  and  having  separated  them  by 
nain  force,  they  removed  the  Arab  to  the  other  side  of 
he  well,  where  some  of  the  company  drew  water  for  his 
l:amel,  which  having  drank  its  fill,  they  sent  the  fellow 
iff,  muttering  curses  as  he  went  away.  Our  masters, 
luring  all  this  time,  were  so  exasperated  at  the  conduct 
I )f  this  man,  that  nothing  less  than  the  strength  of  supe- 
ior  numbers  would  have  prevented  them  from  putting 
fim  to  death ; and  all  the  company  agreed  that  they  had 
teen  grossly  insulted,  especially  as  they  were  strangers. 

When  our  camels  had  finished  drinking  at  this  well, 
he  water  of  which  was  very  brackish,  we  were  mounted, 
md  proceeded  further  east  for  about  one  hour’s  ride, 
-vhere  we  found  two  more  wells,  which  appeared  to  have 
teen  lately  dug,  and  the  water  they  contained  was  very 
salt.  Here  was  a large  drove  of  camels  (probably  one 
lundred)  to  be  watered,  and  they  obliged  me  to  assist  in 


126 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


drawing  water  until  they  had  all  finished  ; my  master  er. 
couraging  me,  by  saying,  “ their  owner  was  a very  goo 
man,  and  would  give  us  food.”  It  was  about  sunset  whe 
we  had  finished  drawing  water,  and  we  followed  the  valle 
in  which  we  were  for  about  three  miles  east,  when  w 
came  to  the  tent  we  had  been  in  quest  of : here  was  no  le 
to  keep  off  the  cold  wind,  nor  did  we  get  any  thing  to  eaij 
notwithstanding  our  masters  had  praised  the  liberality  c 
our  host,  and  tried  by  every  means  to  obtain  some  pro 
visions  from  him.  I soon  found  his  goodness  was  lik| 
that  of  many  others  ; (i.  e.)  he  was  no  longer  liberal  tha 
while  there  was  a prospect  of  profit.  I presume  we  travel 
led  forty-five  miles  this  day. 

As  soon  as  daylight  appeared  on  the  morning  of  th 
10th,  we  set  forward,  all  mounted  on  the  camels,  an< 
kept  on  steadily  until  night  over  this  most  dreary  desert 
and  came  to  a halt  long  after  dark,  without  any  thing  ti 
keep  off  the  wind,  which  was  blowing  a strong  gale.  W 
travelled  this  day  about  thirteen  hours,  at  four  miles  at 
hour  ; as  the  camels  went  all  day  on  a quick  walk,  w, 
must  have  made  at  least  fifty-two  miles  E.  N.  E. 

Oct.  the  11th,  we  set  off  very  early  on  a full  trot,  an< 
went  on  until  about  noon,  seven  hours,  at  six  miles  ai! 
hour,  when  the  land  before  us  appeared  broken,  and  wc 
descended  gradually  into  a deep  valley,  whose  bottorr 
was  covered  with  sand;  and  on  both  sides  of  us,  at  i\ 
great  distance,  we  saw  very  high  and  steep  banks  lik< 
those  of  a fiver,  and  followed  the  tongue  of  land  that  sep 
arated  them.  Our  course  was  nearly  east.  At  abou 
two  P.  M.  our  masters  said  they  saw  camels  ahead,  bu 
we  could  not  perceive  them  for  a long  time  after,  wher 
keeping  on  a great  trot,  we  came  up  with  a drove  abou 
six  P.  M.  We  could  however  find  no  owners,  nor  ir. 
fact  any  human  being  ; for  all  had  fled  and  hid  themselves 
probably  from  fear  of  being  robbed,  or  that  contributions 
might  be  levied  on  their  charity  for  some  provisions.  We 
searched  some  time  for  the  owners  of  these  camels,  but 
not  finding  them,  we  continued  on,  and  having  come  to 
the  abrupt  end  of  the  tongue  of  land  on  which  we  had 
been  travelling,  we  descended  into  the  river’s  bed,  which 
was  dry  and  soft.  Pushing  forward,  we  reached  a large 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


127 


cluster  of  bushes,  which  appeared  like  an  island  in  a lake 
fcvhen  seen  at  a distance,  and  I suppose  it  was  ten  o’clock 
it  night  before  we  arrived  at  the  spot,  though  we  saw  it 
n the  distant  horizon  long  before  dark.  As  we  entered 
imong  the  bushes,  our  masters  preserved  a profound  si- 
ence ; and  having  found  a clear  spot  of  about  twenty 
j'ards  in  diameter,  encircled  by  high  bushes,  which  kept 
iff  the  wind,  we  stopped  there  for  the  night ; having 
ravelled  that  day  for  the  space  of  about  fourteen  hours, 

■ t the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  making  a distance  of 
* eventy  miles.  We  had  nothing  this  night  wherewith  to 
' llay  our  hunger  : our  fatigues  and  sufferings  may  be  more 
lasily  conceived  than  expressed  ; yet  as  we  were  sheltered 
rom  the  night  winds,  we  slept  very  soundly  until  we  were 
oused  up  to  continue  our  journey. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  as  soon  as  daylight  appeared, 
re  watered  the  camels  at  a well  of  brackish  water  near  the 
iushes  before  mentioned.  Our  masters  had  been  careful 
tot  to  make  the  least  noise  during  the  night,  nor  to  kindle 
fire,  fearing  they  should  be  discovered  and  surprised  by 
ome  more  powerful  party  ; but  neither  foe  nor  friend  ap- 
>eared  ; and  having  filled  a skin  with  some  of  this  brackish 
rater,  we  descended  a second  steep  bank  to  the  bottom 
>r  lowest  part  of  this  river’s  bed,  which  was  then  dry, 
•andy,  and  incrusted  with  salt ; it  appeared  very  white, 
nd  crumbled  under  the  feet  of  our  camels,  making  a 
oud  crackling  noise.  The  reasons  of  this  bed  being  then 
rithout  water,  appeared  to  be  the  recess  of  the  tide  : its 
eft  bank  rose  very  high  in  perpendicular  cliffs,  while  its 
ight  was  sloping  and  covered  with  sand,  evidently  blown 
>y  the  winds  from  the  sea  beach,  and  which  lay  in  drifts 
: ip  to  its  very  summit.  This  bay  (for  it  can  be  nothing 
:lse)  ran  into  the  land  from  near  a S.  W.  to  a W.  direction, 
md  was  not  more  than  eight  or  ten  miles  wide  here,  which 
1 1 afterwards  found  was  near  its  mouth,  but  was  very  broad 
vithin,  and  extended  a great  distance  into  the  country ; for 
iince  we  entered  its  former  bed  we  had  travelled  twelve 
tours,  at  the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  making  sixty 
niles,  and  it  then  extended  farther  than  the  eye  could 
•each  to  the  S.  W. 


128 


CAPTAIN'  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


The  steep  banks  on  both  sides,  which  were  four  or  fiv 
hundred  feet  high,  showed  most  evident  signs  of  the 
having  been  washed  by  sea  water  from  their  base  to  nei 
their  summits,  (but  at  a very  remote  period,)  and  that  th 
sea  had  gradually  retired  from  them.  Our  masters  bein 
in  a state  of  starvation,  their  ill  humour  increased  exceed 
ingly  ; when  about  nine  o’clock  in  the  forenoon  we  sai 
two  men,  driving  two  camels,  come  down  the  sand  hill 
on  our  right.  Our  masters  rode  off  to  meet  them,  aw 
having  made  the  necessary  inquiries,  returned  to  us,  wh 
had  continued  going  forward,  accompanied  by  Abdallah 
Sidi  Hamet  informed  us  that  there  were  goats  in  an  E.  S.  E 
direction  not  far  distant,  and  that  we  should  soon  hav 
some  meat ; so  we  commenced  climbing  over  the  higl  i 
hills  of  sand,  in  order  that  we  might  fall  in  with  them,  if 
ascending  these  hills,  which  were  extremely  difficult  an( 
long,  our  old  lame  camel  gave  out,  having  fallen  dowi 
several  times,  which  caused  much  delay  ; so  finding  hirf 
nearly  expiring,  we  abandoned  him  and  proceeded  on 
though  this  circumstance  of  losing  the  camel,  also  helped 
to  increase  the  rage  of  our  masters,  who  now  behaved  like 
madmen.  As  we  were  climbing  up,  we  perceived  a hole 
dug  in  the  sand,  and  we  were  told  that  the  entrails  of  i 
camel  had  been  roasted  there,  which  Seid  discovered  by 
applying  his  nose  to  the  surrounding  earth.  Sidi  Hamet' 
having  gone  on  before  us  with  his  gun,  we  had  already1 
ascended  several  miles  of  this  steep  and  sandy  bank  ; and’ 
on  arriving  near  the  level  ol  the  surrounding  country,  we'j 
heard  the  report  of  a musket  fired,  at  no  great  distance) 
from  where  we  were,  and  soon  perceived  Sidi  Hamet,  ac-[ 
companied  by  another  Arab,  driving  a fiock  of  goats  be- 
fore them.  This  Arab  was  much  intimidated  at  the  sight 
and  report  of  a gun,  for  my  master  had  fired  oft'  one  of  the 
barrels  to  frighten  him.  When  the  goats  came  near  us, 
our  masters,  who  considered  possession  as  a very  important 
preliminary,  ran  in  among  the  flock,  and  seized  lour  of 
them,  which  they  gave  into  our  charge,  until  they  should 
settle  about  the  price  with  their  owner,  who  was  alone  and 
unarmed,  but  at  this  moment  he  was  joined  by  his  wife  : — 
she  had  not  been  at  all  frightened,  and  commenced  scold- 
ing at  our  masters  most  immoderately  and  loudly  she 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


129 


laid,  she  would  not  consent  to  part  with  the  goats,  even 
f her  husband  did,  and  insisted  on  knowing  Sidi  Hamet’s 
lame  : this  he  told  her,  and  she  then  began  to  abuse  him 
or  being  so  cowardly  as  to  rob  an  unarmed  man  ; said  the 
vhole  country  should  ring  with  his  name  and  actions,  and 
he  did  not  doubt  but  she  could  find  some  man  who 
vould  revenge  this  injury.  Her  husband  all  this  time  strove 
o stop  her  tongue,  but  to  no  purpose  ; nor  did  she  cease 
t colding  until  Seid  presented  his  gun  to  her  breast,  and 
, ireatened  her  if  she  spoke  another  word,  to  blow  her  to 
ieces.  This  compelled  her  to  pause  a moment,  while 
ur  master  (taking  advantage  of  her  silence)  informed 
tern  that  he  had  left  a good  camel  a little  distance  be- 
ind,  which  being  only  tired,  could  not  proceed  with 
tern,  and  that  he  would  give  them  this  camel  in  ex- 
change for  these  four  goats,  I could  plainly  discover, 
pwever,  that  these  people  did  not  believe  him*  Sidi 
tamet  nevertheless  spoke  the  truth  in  part  ; a camel  was 
ideed  left  behind,  but  not  a good  one ; yet  as  there  was 
p alternative,  they  were  necessitated  to  submit : the  wo- 
lan  however  insisted  on  exchanging  one  goat  we  had  for 
lother,  which  our  masters  assented  to,  merely  to  gratify 
;r  caprice. 

This  business  being  thus  settled,  which  had  taken  up 

Iiariy  an  hour’s  time,  our  goats  were  tied  fast  to  each 
:her  by  their  necks,  and  given  into  my  charge  ; leaving 
Ir.  Savage  and  Horace  to  assist  in  driving  them.  Clark 
id  Burns  were  ordered  to  drive  the  camels,  whilst  our 
asters,  a little  less  fretful  than  before,  went  forward  to 
ck  out  a practicable  passage  for  them  and  the  goats, 
hile  my  party  brought  up  the  rear.  The  goats  were 
flicult  to  manage,  but  we  continued  to  drive  them  along, 
id  generally  within  sight  of  the  camels,  though  with 
•eat  fatigue  and  exertion.  Our  hunger  and  thirst  were 
ccessive  : the  direct  heat  of  the  sun,  as  well  as  that  re- 
fitted from  the  deep  and  yielding  sands,  was  intense,, 
Ir.  Savage  found  here  a very  short  green  weed,  which 
h pulled  and  ate,  telling  me  it  was  most  delicious  and 
t sweet  as  honey  ; but  I begged  him  not  to  swallow  any 
< it  until  I should  ask  our  masters  what  was  the  nature 
( it,  for  it  might  be  poison ; and  I refused  to  touch  it 

17 


150 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


myself,  though  it  looked  tempting.  In  our  distresse 
condition,  however,  he  thought  a green  thing  that  taste 
so  well  could  do  him  no  harm,  and  continued  to  e: 
whatever  he  could  find  of  it,  which  (happily  for  him)  w; 
not  much  : but  in  a short  time  he  was  convinced  of  tl 
contrary,  for  he  soon  began  to  vomit  violently  : — th 
alarmed  me  for  his  safety,  and  I examined  the  weed  1 
had  been  so  delighted  with,  and  after  a close  investigatioi ; 
I was  convinced  it  was  no  other  than  what  is  called  i 
America  the  Indian  tobacco,  ( Nicotiana .)  Its  effec 

were  also  similar  ; but  how  these  plants  came  to  grow  c1 
those  sands  I cannot  conceive. 

Mr.  Savage  continued  to  vomit  by  spells  for  two  hour 
or  more,  which,  as  he  had  very  little  in  his  stomacl 
strained  it  so  excessively  as  to  bring  forth  blood.  I couf 
not  wait  for  him,  because  both  our  masters,  their  camel 
and  our  shipmates,  were  already  out  of  sight.  When! 
could  proceed  no  further,  he  would  stop  and  vomit,  an1 
then  by  running  (though  in  great  distress)  as  fast  as  1 
was  able,  come  up  with  us  again.  I encouraged  him  s 
I could — told  him  what  the  herb  was,  and  that  its  effect 
need  not  be  dreaded. 

Ever  since  we  had  been  coming  near  the  summit  of  tl 
land,  we  had  discerned  the  sea,  though  at  a great  distanc 
ahead  and  on  our  left ; but  as  it  appeared  dark  and  smoot 
in  the  distant  horizon,  I supposed  it  to  be  an  extensiv 
ridge  of  high  woodland,  and  hoped  we  should  soon  reac 
it,  as  our  course  bent  that  way,  and  that  this  would  prov 
to  be  the  termination  of  the  desert.  Horace,  howeve 
thought  it  appeared  too  dark  and  smooth  for  land,  an 
regarding  it  again  attentively,  I discovered  it  was  in  fa( 
the  ocean,  and  I could  plainly  distinguish  its  mountainoi 
waves  as  they  rolled  along,  for  it  was  greatly  agitated  b 
fierce  winds.  This  was  the  first  view  we  had  of  the  st 
since  we  were  made  slaves  : it  was  a highly  gratifyin 
sight  to  us  all,  and  particularly  so,  as  it  was  quite  unex 
pected  ; and  it  very  much  revived  the  spirits  of  myse 
and  desponding  companions. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


231 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

They  travel  along  the  sea-coast  under  high  banks — ; fall  in 
■with  and  join  a company  of  Arabs — travel  in  the  night 
for  fear  of  robbers — Mr.  Savage  faints — is  near  being 
j massacred , and  rescued  by  the  author. 

Di  scerning  the  tracks  of  our  camels,  which  we  had 
jst  sight  of  for  a time,  as  they  had  crossed  over  rocks, 
/here  they  had  descended  through  a rent  or  chasm,  part- 
j t covered  with  high  drifts  of  loose  sand,  towards  the  sea- 
aore,  we  followed  them  down  immensely  steep  sand  hills, 
> a tolerably  inclined  plane,  between  the  first  and  second 
anks  of  the  sea;  which,  from  appearances,  had  once 
cashed  the  upper  bank,  but  had  long  since  retired  : — the 
iclined  plane  had  also  been  a beach  for  ages,  where  the 
•'ones,  that  now  covered  its  surface,  had  been  tossed,  and 
imnded  by  striking  against  one  another. 
j.i  From  this  beach  the  ocean  had  also  retired,  and  now 
f ashed  other  perpendicular  cliffs  of  one  hundred  feet  or 
lore  in  height,  at  a distance  of  six  or  eight  miles  to  the 
Ibrthward  of  the  former  ones,  which  appeared  to  rise  in 

Jirupt,  and  in  many  places  overhanging  cliffs  of  rocks  to 
e height  of  three  hundred  feet.  We  had  made  our  way 
firough  these  cliffs,  by  means  of  a hollow,  seemingly 
irmed  on  purpose  for  a passage,  as  it  was  the  only  one 
i view  ; and  as  I did  not  know  which  way  our  masters 
'ent,  I had  stopped  to  view  the  surrounding  prospect, 
ad  now  give  what  was  then  my  impression.  I was  at  a 
Iss  which  way  to  steer  my  course,  but  our  masters,  who 
'ere  concealed  behind  a small  hillock  on  our  left,  dis- 
overing  my  embarrassment,  now  called  to  me,  where  I 
non  joined  them.  It  was  then  nearly  dark,  and  there 
'ere  three  or  four  families  of  Arabs  near,  sitting  under  a 
i elter  made  of  skins  extended  by  poles  ; here  our  cam- 
<3  were  turned  up  to  browse,  and  we  were  ordered  to 
ollect  brush,  which  grew  on  the  steep  side  of  the  banks, 
t make  a fire,  and  to  keep  off  the  wind  during  the  night, 
hr.  Savage  was  entirely  exhausted,  and  I requested  him 
t lie  down  on  the  ground,  whilst  the  rest  of  us  gathered 


132 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


the  bushes  required  ; but  when  I came  in  with  my  han 
ful,  Seid  was  beating1  him  with  a stick  to  make  him  i 
sist.  I begged  he  would  permit  Mr.  Savage  to  rema 
where  he  was  ; told  him  he  was  sick,  and  that  I woui 
perform  his  share  of  the  labour.  Sidi  Hamet  now  retur 
ed  and  killed  one  of  the  goats,  of  which  they  gave  us  t 
entrails — a seasonable  relief  indeed,  and  we  were  allow 
to  drink  a little  of  the  soup  they  were  boiled  in,  and 
small  piece  of  meat  was  divided  between  us  ; and  ea< 
received  a drink  of  water  : I had  before  stolen  a drink  f 
Mr.  Savage,  whose  bloody  vomit  continued.  In  t 
course  of  the  night  they  gave  us  a small  quantity  of  f 
same  kind  of  pudding  ive  had  before  tasted,  but  as  IV] 
Savage  was  sick,  they  refused  to  give  him  any,  sayin 
4‘  he  has  already  eaten  too  much  of  something,  but  th< 
did  not  know  what.”  Sidi  Hamet,  however,  saved  i 
little  of  the  pudding  in  a bowl  for  him,  and  as  he  seenid 
unwilling  to  die  with  hunger,  I gave  him  part  of  tli 
pudding  I had,  and  saved  my  share  of  meat  for  him  uni 
the  morning.  Our  hunger  and  thirst  being  somewhj 
appeased,  we  slept  this  night  pretty  soundly.  We  h; 
travelled  this  day  about  thirty  miles.  I 

October  the  14th,  early  in  the  morning,  we  took  lead 
of  these  Arabs  ; but  while  we  were  busied  in  getting  o 
Abdallah  seized  on  Mr.  Savage’s  pudding  in  the  bowl  ;l !i 
a good  prize,  and  swallowed  it  in  an  instant  ; so  th 
nothing  but  my  care  of  Mr.  Savage  saved  him  from  fain! 
ing  and  consequent  death  on  this  day.  Our  masters  ha 
purchased  two  more  goats  from  those  Arabs,  which  irj 
creased  our  number  to  five  ; these  we  were  forced  if 
drive,  and  we  kept  along  the  sea-shore  the  whole  of  th  i 
day.  On  our  right  the  original  sea-shore  (or  bank)  ros 
nearly  three  hundred  feet  perpendicularly,  and  in  man 
places  in  overhanging  cliffs.  The  inclined  plane  on  whic 
we  travelled  was  from  three  to  six  or  eight  miles  wide 
and  very  regular  ; covered  with  pebbles  and  many  rounJ 
stones;  among  which  grew  here  and  there  a few  dwai 
bushes  of  different  kinds  from  what  I had  seen  before  i 
various  parts  of  the  world.  A little  to  our  left  the  plan 
broke  off  abruptly,  and  the  ocean  appeared.  The  banl 
was  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  higi 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


133 


ndbove  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  mostly  perpendicular, 
against  which  the  heavy  surges  dashed  with  great  fury, 

Sounding  like  loud  peals  of  distant  thunder.  Our  course 
nd  that  of  the  shore  was  about  east,  and  near  dark  we 
rell  in  with  four  families  of  Arabs  who  were  about  pitch- 
ing their  tents  near  the  sea-shore.  Our  masters  went  and 
if  atroduced  themselves  to  the  one  who  appeared  to  be  their 
idhief,  or  the  principal  character  among  them,  and  whose 
aame  was  Hassar.  They  soon  became  acquainted,  and 
i ; was  ascertained  that  Hassar  and  his  wife,  together  with 
1 3 ur  men  that  were  witli  him,  and  their  families  were  go- 
t lg  the  same  route  that  we  were  ; upon  which  our  masters 
greed  to  join  company. 

Hassar’s  wife,  whose  name  was  Tamar,  and  who  ap- 
eared  to  be  an  uncommonly  intelligent  woman,  addressed 
le  in  broken  Spanish  and  Arabic  mixed  : — she  said  she 
ad  saved  the  lives  of  some  Spaniards  who  had  been 
wrecked  on  that  coast  a great  many  years  ago  ; that  a 
essel  came  for  them,  and  that  she  went  to  Lanzarote 
one  of  the  Canary  islands)  to  get  some  goods  which  the 
Spanish  captain  promised  to  deliver  to  her  father,  who 
etained  three  of  the  men  until  the  Spaniard  should  have 
ulfilled  his  contract,  and  brought  her  back.  She  repre- 
ented  to  me  the  manner  in  which  the  houses  in  Lanzarote 
vere  built,  and  described  the  forts  and  batteries  with  their 
;annon,  &c.  so  very  clearly  and  accurately,  that  I had  no 
loubt  she  must  have  seen  them,  and  I gave  her  to  un- 
lerstand  I had  been  there  also.  She  said  Lanzarote  was 
. bad  country,  and  assured  us,  we  should  not  die  with 
lunger  while  we  remained  in  her  company. 

We  travelled  on  the  14th  about  twenty  miles.  In  the 
light  our  masters  killed  a goat,  and  gave  us  a part  of  the 
neat  as  well  as  of  the  entrails  : Hassar’s  wife  also  gave  us 
i small  quantity  of  the  pudding  before  mentioned,  which 
he  Arabs  call  Lhash  ; and  here  we  had  a good  night’s 
deep.  October  the  15th,  early  in  the  morning,  Hassar 
md  his  company  struck  their  tents,  and  all  these  families 
proceeded  on  with  us  until  near  night ; when  we  came  to 
i very  deep  gully,  which  we  could  not  pass  in  anv  other 
way  than  by  going  down  the  bank  on  to  the  sea  beach,  and 
at  low  tide ; there  was  a kind  of  pathway  where  camels 


134 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


had  gone  down  before  us.  We  descended,  ahd  then 
found  a tent  with  an  Arab  family  in  it,  just  below  thi 
high  bank  ; so  sending  on  the  camels,  Sidi  Harriet  mad 
us  stop  here  a few  moments.  The  owner  of  the  ten 
pretended  to  speak  Spanish,  but  in  fact  knew  only  a fev 
detached  words  of  that  language:  he  mentioned  to  mi 
that  he  knew  I had  promised  Sidi  Hamet  that  my  frieno 
in  Swearah  would  pay  him  the  amount  I had  bargainee 
for,  stating  the  sum  : now,  said  this  Arab,  “ IJave  yoi 
a friend  in  Swearah?”  I answered  I had.  “ Do  not  lie 
(said  he,)  for  if  you  do  you  will  have  your  throat  cut 
but  if  you  have  told  him  so  merely  that  you  might  ge:, 
off  of  the  desert,  so  as  to  procure  something  to  eat,  h< 
will  pardon  that  pretext  and  deception  so  far  as  only  tc 
sell  you  and  your  comrades  to  the  highest  bidder,  the  first 
opportunity,  provided,  however,  that  you  confess  the  de- 
ceit now.  In  a few  days  (added  he)  you  will  find  houses 
and  a river  of  running  water,  and  should  you  persist  in 
deceiving  him,  you  will  certainly  lose  your  life.”  I made 
him  understand  that  I was  incapable  of  lying  to  Sidi 
Hamet ; that  all  I told  him  was  true  ; that  he  was  the  man 
who  had  saved  my  life,  and  he  should  be  well  rewardedj 
for  his  goodness  by  my  friend,  and  by  our  Almighty  Fa- 
ther. This  seemed  to  satisfy  Sidi  Hamet,  who  was 
present  and  understood  me  better  than  the  other  did,  and 
he  told  me  I should  see  Swearah  in  a few  days.  We  now 
went  forward,  accompanied  by  the  Arab,  who  piloted  us 
across  a small  arm  of  the  sea  that  entered  the  before 
mentioned  gully.  We  here  found  a pair  of  kerseymere 
pantaloons  that  had  belonged  to  Mr.  Savage,  in  the  pos- 
session of  one  of  this  man’s  little  sons : — I pointed  them 
out  to  my  masters,  and  begged  them  to  buy  them,  which 
after  a long  barter  with  the  boy,  Seid  effected,  by  giving 
him  in  exchange  a piece  of  blue  cotton  cloth  which  he  had 
worn  as  a kind  of  shirt : they  wished  me  to  give  the 
pantaloons  to  Clark  or  Horace,  but  I gave  them  to  Mr. 
Savage,  although  they  insisted  he  was  fonte , or  a bad 
ellow. 

Having  got  up  the  steep  bank  again,  after  wading 
through  the  salt  water,  which  was  nearly  up  to  our  hips, 
?.nd  one  hundred  yards  broad,  we  encamped  for  the  night 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


135' 


on  high  dry  land ; and  at  dark  our  masters,  taking  Horace 
md  myself  with  them,  went  near  a few  tents  close  by  the 
sea,  where  we  wrere  presented  with  a quantity  of  dried 
muscles,  which,  though  very  salt,  we  found  excellent : 
:hese  we  divided  among  our  shipmates.  I conjecture  we 
lad  made  twenty-five  miles  this  day.  Here  our  masters 
• 'tilled  their  remaining  goats,  boiled  and  ate  their  entrails 
md  most  of  their  meat,  as  all  present  were  hungry,  and 
iwould  have  some  in  spite  of  every  opposition  ; so  that 
)ur  share  was  seized  and  swallowed  by  others. 

October  the  16th,  we  made  ready  and  started  very 
early,  but  went  on  slowly,  keeping  near  the  sea-shore, 
md  mostly  in  the  broken  grounds,  caused  by  its  former 
washings.  Our  masters  seemed  very  fearful  all  this  day, 
md  told  me  there  were  many  robbers  and  bad  men  here- 
abouts, who  would  endeavour  to  seize  and  carry  us  off, 
md  that  they  could  throw  large  stones  with  great  force 
and  precision.  We  had  not  travelled  more  than  fifteen 
1 miles  before  sunset,  and  night  coming  on,  our  masters, 
who  had  mounted  Mr.  Savage,  Clark,  and  Burns  on  the 
tcamels,  drove  them  on  at  a great  rate,  while  myself  and 
Horace  were  obliged  to  keep  up  with  them  by  running 
an  foot.  All  this  time  they  had  their  guns  in  their  hands 
unsheathed,  and  when  Horace  and  myself  were  obliged 
occasionally  to  stop,  one  of  them  always  stayed  with  us, 
and  then  hurried  us  on  as  fast  as  possible.  In  this  manner 
we  proceeded  until  about  midnight,  when  coming  to  a 
deep  gully,  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark  were  dismounted,  and 
Horace  and  myself  placed  on  the  camels.  Descending 
the  valley,  we  found  it  full  of  high  sand  drifts,  and  pro- 
ceeded without  making  the  least  noise  : the  valley  was 
wide,  and  the  sand  lying  in  it  had,  no  doubt,  been  driven 
from  the  sea  beach  by  the  wind.  All  the  women  and 
children  at  this  time  were  running  on  foot.  After  reach- 
ing, with  much  labour,  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  and 
the  summit  beyond  it,  we  found  the  whole  surface  of  the 
ground  making  an  even  inclined  plane,  covered  with 
deep  drifts  of  loose  sand.  I had  been  riding,  I think, 
about  two  hours,  when  Clark,  who  was  a considerable 
distance  behind,  called  to  me,  and  said,  “ Mr.  Savage 
has  fainted  away,  and  they  are  flogging  him  with  sticks.’' 


136 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


I instantly  slipped  off  my  camel,  and  ran  to  relieve  hit 
as  fast  as  my  legs  could  carry  me.  Seid  was  striking  h; 
apparent  lifeless  body,  which  lay  stretched  on  the  grounc  i 
with  a heavy  stick  : Hassar  had  seized  him  by  the  bear 
with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other  held  a sharp  scimitar 
with  which  he  was  in  the  act  of  cutting  his  throat, 
laid  hold  of  Hassar,  jerked  him  away,  and  clasping  th 
body  of  Mr.  Savage  in  my  arms,  raised  him  up,  an 
called  for  water.  Hassar  would  have  run  me  througi 
with  his  scimitar,  but  Sidi  Hamet  arrested  and  prevente! 
him.  I expected  to  lose  my  life,  but  had  determined  t! 
save  Mr.  Savage’s  at  all  hazards.  Our  masters  and  th 
whole  company  of  men,  women,  and  children,  were  aroun 
me  : they  were  possessed  with  the  belief  that  he  was  per 
verse  and  obstinate,  and  that  he  would  not  exert  himseil 
to  proceed  at  a time  when  they  were  in  haste  to  go  or 
lest  they  should  fall  into  the  hands  of  robbers  ; for  whic 
reason  they  had  determined  to  kill  him.  I made  Sid 
Hamet,  however,  and  the  others  understand,  that  he  ha< 
fainted  through  hunger  and  excessive  fatigue,  and  that  h< 
was  not  perverse  in  this  instance.  This  surprised  thtn1 
exceedingly  : they  had  never  before  heard  of  such  a thing 
as  fainting.  Sidi  Hamet  ordered  a camel  to  be  brought 
and  a drink  of  water  to  be  given  him,  and  when  he  re 
vived,  this  Arab  shed  tears  ; then  putting  him  and  Clark) 
on  a camel,  one  to  steady  the  other,  they  proceeded.  Sid 
Hamet  desired  me  to  get  on  with  Horace  and  ride,  saying, 
with  a sneer — “ the  English  are  good  for  nothing — you 
see  even  our  women  and  children  can  walk  and  run.”  1 
told  him  1 could  walk,  that  I was  not  a bad  fellow  and 
began  to  run  about  and  drive  up  the  camels  : this  pleased 
him  excessively,  and  he  bade  me  come  and  walk  with 
him,  leaving  the  camels  to  the  care  of  others,  calling 
me  “ good  Riley — you  shall  again  see  your  children,  if 
God  please.” 

We  continued  our  journey  eastward  along  the  south 
side  of  a high  string  of  sand  hills,  when  hearing  a dog 
bark  before  us,  we  turned  the  camels  suddenly  off  to  the 
north,  setting  them  off  on  a lull  trot,  but  passing  over 
the  sand  hills  without  noise  : we  kept  this  course  tor  ebout 
an  hour,  until  having  got  near  the  sea  bank,  and  nordi  of 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


137 


he  sand  hills,  we  resumed  our  former  course.  Near  day- 
ght  we  lost  our  way,  and  fearing  to  go  amiss,  as  it  was 
ery  dark,  they  made  the  camels  lie  down  in  a circle, 
.lacing  us  within  it — when  they  kept  guard  over  us  with 
ieir  muskets  in  their  hands,  while  we  took  a nap.  I 
jhould  guess  we  travelled  fifty  miles  this  last  day  and 
ight. 

October  the  17th,  early  in  the  morning,  we  set  forward 
gain,  still  on  the  same  inclined  plane,  between  the  first 
id  second  banks  of  the  sea.  The  high  banks  on  our 
ght,  whose  pointed  rocks,  where  they  had  been  washed 
y the  ocean,  were  still  visible  all  the  way,  began  to  be 
vertopped  with  high  hills  rising  far  into  the  country,  and 
resenting  to  our  view  a new  aspect ; so  that  I was  com 
meed  we  had  left  the  level  desert. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


lack  mountains  appear  in  the  east — They  come  to  a river 
of  salt  water , and  to  wells  of  fresh  water , where  they 
find  many  horses — Description  of  a singular  plant — 
! Come  to  cidtivated  land ; to  a fresh  water  river , and  a 
few  stone  huts. 


The  black  tops  of  high  mountains  appeared  in  the  dis- 
lilt  horizon  to  the  eastward  about  noon,  and  the  camel 
Piths  were  very  much  trodden.  We  kept  on  until  near 
)ght,  when  meeting  with  a deep  valley,  we  wound  our 
nurse  through  it  to  the  southward,  and  then  went  down 
auth-eastwardly  through  another  deep  valley,  where  there 
'as  a good  path.  The  black  bare  mountains  on  both 
:des  of  us  gave  us  great  hopes  that  we  should  soon  come 
* running  water  and  cultivated  lands  ; and  in  reality  near 
ight  we  came  to  a stream  of  water,  with  high  grass  and 
lishes  growing  on  its  margin.  The  water,  however,  was 
ry  brackish,  and  could  not  be  drank  ; but  on  its  oppo- 
se bank  we  saw  a company  of  men  at  some  wells,  water- 
ig  about  forty  fine  looking  horses  and  some  camels.  Our 
masters  saluted  those  men,  and  crossing  the  stream,  which 

18 


138 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


in  this  part  was  about  two  feet  deep  and  thirty  feet  wicf 
we  watered  our  camels  also  at  the  same  place.  This  rive 
whose  water  was  clear  as  crystal,  was  literally  filled  wil 
beautiful  large  fish,  which  were  jumping  above  the  surfac 
every  moment ; but  the  Arabs  did  not  seem  to  want  then 
for  they  could  have  been  caught  very  easily.  The  con 
pany  with  horses  and  camels  left  the  wells,  and  went  c 
to  the  south,  riding  at  a full  trot  along  the  river’s  side  : the 
were  armed  only  with  scimitars.  Our  company  then  wei 
towards  the  sea,  and  Hassar’s  women  pitched  their  ten 
for  the  night ; here  they  cooked  a goat,  which  they  divide 
among  all  the  party,  and  what  fell  to  our  share  cannot  t! 
supposed  to  have  been  much.  I believe  we  made  thirty 
six  miles  this  day,  as  we  rode  nearly  all  the  time. 

October  the  18th,  we  ascended  the  hill,  climbing  upi 
a zig-zag  path  on  the  steep  side  of  the  east  bank  of  th 
river ; and  having  gained  the  surface,  we  found  it  to  be  i 
continuation  of  the  same  inclined  plane  on  which  we  ha 
before  been  travelling.  The  bank  on  our  right,  to  th 
south,  still  continued  to  give  indubitable  proofs  of  it 
having  been  washed  by  the  ocean ; whose  surges  ha 
worn  in  under  the  shelving- rocks,  which  hung  in  immens 
masses  of  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet  high  over  th 
surface  of  the  inclined  plane  below,  while  the  plane  itsej 
adjoining  the  cliffs  was  covered  with  fragments  that  har 
fallen  from  above,  and  with  other  stones  that  bad  bee 
washed  and  worn  round  by  the  ocean’s  waves,  leaving  th; 
most  positive  marks  of  its  having  retired  to  its  preser 
bed.  These  observations,  with  those  I had  made  befon 
and  was  enabled  to  make  afterwards,  fully  satisfied  m 
mind,  that  the  sea  had  gradually  retired  from  this  conti 
nent ; — I must  leave  it  to  philosophers  to  account  for  th 
cause.  The  only  green  thing  we  had  seen  for  seven 
days  past,  except  what  grew  immediately  on  the  bank  o 
the  river,  (which  were  some  bushes  resembling  dwarf  at 
ders  and  bulrushes,)  was  a shrub  that  rose  in  a small  bunc) 
at  the  bottom,  having  frequently  but  one  stalk,  from  thre 
to  twelve  inches  in  thickness  ; the  limbs  spreading  out  ii 
every  direction,  like  an  umbrella,  into  innumerable  branch 
es,  making  a diameter  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  anc 
not  more  than  six  feet  in  height : its  leaves  very  green 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


139 


smooth,  pointed,  and  about  four  inches  long,  by  one  and 
i half  broad  ; its  bark  resembled  that  of  the  hard  or  sugar 
naple  tree  ; its  branches  terminated  abruptly,  the  point  of 
ach  twig  being  nearly  as  thick  as  the  end  of  a man’s 
inger : this  shrub,  or  weed,  was  very  tender,  and  as  we 
aroke  off  the  twigs,  a great  many  drops  of  glutinous  liquid, 
lesembling  milk,  flowed  from  them,  but  its  odour  and 
aste  were  of  the  most  disagreeable  kind,  and  the  camels 
vould  not  feed  on  it.  W e saw  a good  deal  that  had  grown 
ip  before,  and  had  died  and  become  dry : on  breaking  it 
iff,  I found  it  was  hollow,  and  almost  as  light  as  a com- 
non  dry  weed.  Neither  our  mastery  nor  the  other  Arabs 
would  light  a fire  with  it,  on  account  of  its  disagreeable 
,mell  when  burning  ; the  taste  of  the  milk  issuing  from 
his  plant  was  the  most  nauseous  and  disgusting  in  nature, 
hough  very  white  and  beautiful  to  behold.  ' About  noon 
re  canTe  to  the  foot  of  the  high  mountains  we  had  seen 
he  day  before,  and  turned  in  between  two  of  them  to  the 
outheast,  leaving  the  sea  entirely.  We  went  up  through 
chasm  in  the  bank,  ever  rocks  and  through  a narrow 
ootway,  formed  by  the  treading  of  camels  and  horses  ; for 
re  had  seen  many  horse  tracks,  and  also  the  tracks  of  one 
nimal  of  the  kind  called  neat  cattle. 

I As  we  proceeded  on  foot,  winding  upwards,  we  dis- 
overed  on  our  left  a few  stones  piled  up  in  the  form  of  a 
rail,  round  a pit  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  across,  and  six  feet 
Beep,  dug  in  the  earth  by  art.  There  were  lying  on  the 
;round  around  the  wall,  several  earthen  pots  that  would 
ontain  from  three  to  four  gallons  each,  and  which  appear- 
d to  have  been  made  for  and  used  as  boilers.  One  of  em- 
oting men  directly  took  up  one  of  them,  and  wras  lashing 
t on  his  camel  as  a good  prize,  when  Hassar  and  Sidi 
famet,  observing  the  circumstance,  made  him  untie  and 
arry  it  back  again  to  the  spot  where  he  had  found  it.  As 
already  knew  the  propensity  all  had  for  plundering,  I 
ould  not  but  imagine  that  they  now  restrained  themselves 
hrough  fear.  About  sunset  we  came  to  a small  spot  of 
and  that  had  been  cultivated,  and  fell  in  with  a heap  of 
•arley  straw.  Here  was  the  first  sign  of  cultivation  we 
iad  seen  on  this  continent,  and  we  hailed  it  as  the  harbin- 
ger of  happier  days.  We  had  travelled  full  thirty  mile: 


140 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


this  day,  and  our  masters  now  gave  us  the  putrid  remain 
of  the  goat  which  had  hung  on  one  of  the  camels  for  fou 
days  : this  we  roasted,  and  found  it  a delicious  morsel 
it  was  tender,  and  needed  no  seasoning.  Some  of  m 
comrades,  as  if  their  taste  had  become  depraved  by  th  i 
rage  of  hunger,  declared  that  putrid  meat  was  far  prefers 
ble  to  fresh  ; that  it  wanted  neither  salt  nor  pepper  to  giv 
it  a relish,  and  that  if  ever  they  got  home  again,  the 
should  prefer  such  food  to  any  other.  Having  finished  ou 
savoury  supper,  we  lay  down  on  the  straw,  and  enjoyed 
most  charming,  sound,  and  refreshing  sleep.  To  us,  wh 
for  so  long  a time  hapl  been  obliged  to  repose  our  wearie< 
limbs  and  wasted  frames  on  the  hard- baked  bosom  of  th 
desert,  or  the  dead  sides  of  the  barren  sand  drifts,  thi 
solitary  heap  of  fresh  straw  seemed  softer  and  sweeter  thai 
a bed  of  down  strewn  over  with,  the  most  odoriferou 
flowers.  * 

October  the  19th,  we  resumed  our  journey  very  earlj 
in  the  morning,  and  travelled  on  foot,  all  except  Burns 
who  was  so  far  exhausted  as  to  be  unable  to  walk.  Ou 
course  rounded  from  S,  E.  to  E.  N.  E.  keeping  the  bot 
tom  of  the  valleys,  most  of  which  had  been  cultivated  b1 
the  plough  at  no  very  remote  period,  but  only  in  a narrov 
strip.  The  sides  of  the  mountains  were  entirely  barrel 
and  naked  of  foliage,  and  we  kept  on  winding  as  the  val 
leys  permitted,  until  about  two  o’clock  P.  M.  when,  sud 
denly  through  a deep  valley  before  us,  a few  rough  stom 
huts  broke  upon  our  view,  and  a moment  afterwards  w< 
beheld  a stream  of  clear  water  purling  over  a pebbly  bot 
torn,  and  meandering  through  banks  covered  with  greet 
bushes  and  shrubs  in  full  blossom.  On  the  farther  side 
cows,  asses,  and  sheep,  were  feeding  on  green  grass,  ancj 
a number  of  date  trees  adorning  and  shading  the  margin 
of  the  rivulet.  This  was  a sight  none  of  us  expected  tc 
behold,  and  I poured  out  my  soul  in  rapturous  effusions 
of  thankfulness  to  the  Supreme  Being.  Excess  of  joy 
had  so  far  overpowered  our  faculties,  that  it  was  with  dif- 
ficulty we  reached  the  water’s  edge  ; but  urging  forward 
to  the  brink  with  headlong  steps,  and  fearlessly  plunging 
in  our  mouths,  like  thirsty  camels,  we  swallowed  down 
large  draughts,  until  satiated  nature  bade  us  stop.  The 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


141 

rivulet  was  fresh,  and  fortunately  not  so  cold  as  to  occa- 
sion any  injurious  effects  : it  was  quite  shallow,  and  not 
more  than  about  five  yards  in  width  ; it  appeared,  how- 
ever, very  evidently,  that  when  the  rain  falls  in  the  sur- 
rounding country,  it  flows  with  a much  deeper  and  broader 
current.  It  is  called  by  the  Arabs,  el  IVod  noon,  or  the 
river  Nun  ; comes  from  the  southeast,  and  runs  from 
| this  place  to  the  sea  in  a northerly  direction.  We  had  ar- 
rived on  its  right  bank,  where  some  barren  date  trees 

igrew,  and  which  offered  us  nothing  but  their  shade  : 
hungry,  however,  as  we  were,  our  fatigue  got  the  better 
af  every  other  want,  and  as  these  were  the  first  trees  we 
had  met  with  during  our  distressing  pilgrimage,  we  em- 
braced the  kindly  offer,  and  enjoyed  about  two  hours  of 
refreshing  sleep : I was  then  awakened  by  Sidi  Hamet, 
who  directed  me  to  come  with  my  companions  and  follow 
him  : this  we  instantly  did,  and  going  near  one  of  the 
small  houses,  he  divided  amongst  us,  to  our  inexpressi- 
ble joy,  about  four  pounds  of  honey  in  the  comb.  This 
was  indeed  a dainty  treat;  and  with  the  hungriness  of 
greedy  bears,  we  devoured  it,  comb  and  all,  together 
with  a host  of  young  bees  just  ready  for  hatching,  that 
filled  two-thirds  of  the  cells ; our  hearts  at  the  same  time 
swelling  with  gratitude  to  God,  and  tears  of  joy  trick- 
ling down  our  fleshless  cheeks. 

Hassar’s  men  pressed  around,  and  endeavoured  to  snatch 
from  us  this  delicious  food,  of  which  they  had  no  share  ; 
but  Sidi  Hamet  placing  the  bowl  on  his  kness,  passed  the 

(honey-comb  to  us  piece  by  piece  in  one  hand,  while  he 
held  his  gun  in  the  other,  ready  to  fire  on  any  one  who 
should  attempt  to  deprive  us  of  our  meal.  The  eyes  of 
s these  fellows  seemed  to  flash  fire  at  the  preference  we  en- 
joyed, and  we  dreaded  the  effects  of  their  malicious  envy ; 
for  the  Arabs  set  no  bounds  to  their  anger  and  resentment, 
and  regard  no  law  but  that  of  superior  force.  Having 
finished  our  luscious  repast,  we  were  told  by  our  masters 
to  go  to  rest,  which  we  did,  and  soon  fell  asleep  in  the 
shade  formed  by  a beautiful  umbrella  palm-tree. 

About  dark  we  were  called  up  and  ordered  to  gather 
fuel,  and  were  afterwards  presented  with  some  pudding  of 
the  same  kind  we  had  before  eaten,  though  mixed  with 


142 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


oik  that  I afterwards  ascertained  was  the  argan  oil,  which 
though  fresh,  had  a very  strong  smell,  and  my  stomacl 
being  cloyed  with  honey,  I declined  eating  any.  Mj 
companions,  however,  relished  this  oil  very  rfiuch,  anc 
preferred  it  afterwards  to  butter  during  our  stay  in  Africa 
We  found  a good  shelter  this  night  near  a burying  place 
with  a small  square  stone  building  in  the  centre,  white-1 
washed  and  covered  with  a dome  ; and  I afterwards  learn- 
ed that  this  was  a sanctuary  or  saint  house  : it  was  fenced 
in  with  thorn  bushes,  and  was  the  first  burying  place  we 
had  seen  in  this  country.  I computed  we  had  travelled 
this  day  (Oct.  19th)  about  eighteen  miles. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  did  not  go  forward,  and 
a number  of  Arabs  and  Moors  came  to  see  our  masters 
and  us.  This  place  appeared  to  be  a great  thoroughfare : 
large  droves  of  unloaded  camels  were  passing  up  to  the 
eastward  from  the  way  we  had  come,  as  well  as  from  the 
southward,  and  also  great  numbers  of  loaded  camels  going 
towards  the  desert.  Their  loading  consisted  principally  oi 
sacks  of  barley,  some  salt  and  iron,  together  with  other! 
merchandise.  ■ 

During  the  fore  part  of  tins  day,  several  parties  of  men, 
in  all  from  sixty  to  eighty,  passed  us  ; all  mounted  on 
handsome  horses  of  the  Arabian  breed,  well-bred  and 
high-spirited  : their  riders  were  covered  with  cloaks  or 
Eularns,  and  every  one  had  a single  barrelled  musket  in 
his  hand,  the  stocks  of  which  were  curiously  wrought  and: 
inlaid  with  small  pieces  of  various  coloured  wood  and" 
ivory,  arranged  and  fitted  in  a very  particular  manner. 
The  locks  of  these  muskets  were  of  the  Moorish  kind, 
and  very  unhandy,  though  substantial,  and  they  seldom 
miss  fire,  although  their  powder  is  bad  and  coarse  grained. 
This  and  a good  scimitar  slung  on  their  right  side  consti- 
tute the  whole  of  their  weapons  : they  depend  more  upon 
the  scimitar  for  close  quarters  in  battle  than  upon  their 
musket,  for,  say  they,  this  will  never  miss  fire  ; being 
similar  to  the  practice  which  it  is  said  the  Russian  General 
(Suwarrow)  used  to  inculcate  on  his- soldiers — The  ball 
will  lose  its  way,  the  bayonet  never:  the  ball  is  a fool — 
the  bayonet  a hero.”  A Moor  is  ashamed  to  be  without 
his  scimitar  ; their  scabbards  are  made  of  brass,  and  plated 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


143 


on  the  outside  with  silver,  but  those  worn  by  the  Arabs 
are  made  of  leather : these  weapons  both  of  the  Moors 
and  Arabs,  are  suspended  from  the  neck  by  cords  made 
af  woollen  yarn  died  red,  or  a strong  braided  leather  thong. 
They  call  a scimitar  or  long  knife  el  skine. 

These  natives  were  of  a different  race  of  men  from  any 
ive  had  hitherto  seen  : they  wear  a haick  or  piece  of  wool- 
en cloth  wrapped  about  their  bodies,  which  covering 
I hem,  falls  down  below  their  knees ; or  else  a cloak  called 
tf; zlabbia,  made  in  a similar  manner,  cut  with  short  sleeves, 
i md  one  fold  of  the  haick  generally  covered  the  head  ; but 
hose  who  had  not  their  heads  covered  with  their  haick, 
3r  the  hood  of  their  gzlabbia  or  sulam,  wore  a kind  of 
turban  : the  cloak  or  sulam  is  made  of  coarse  black  cloth, 
very  shaggy,  and  much  in  the  form  of  the  European 
:loak,  with  a hood  or  head-piece  to  it ; it  is,  however, 
sewed  together  part  of  the  way  down  in  front,  so  that  to 
*et  it  on,  they  slip  it  over  their  heads,  and  it  covers  their 
arms.  They  are  generally  stout  men,  of  five  feet  eight 
ar  ten  inches  in  height,  and  well  set ; their  complexion  a 
light  olive.  They  wear  their  beards  as  long  as  they  will 
^row,  and  consider  a man  without  a great  bushy  beard  an 
effeminate  being,  and  hold  him  in  great  contempt.  Their 
saddles  were  well  made  and  very  high,  at  least  eight  or 
[ten  inches,  fitted  before  and  behind  so  as  almost  to  make 
> it  impossible  for  the  horse  to  throw  his  rider ; their  bridles 
are  of  the  most  powerful  Arabian  kind  ; their  stirrups  are 
made  of  broad  sheets  of  iron  that  cover  almost  the  whole 
foot — many  of  them  are  plated  with  silver.  All  the  men 
wore  slippers  and  spurs,  and  had  their  stirrups  tied  up 
very  short. 

While  we  remained  here,  a very  respectable  looking  old 
man,  who  spoke  a few  words  of  Spanish,  after  learning 
from  our  masters  who  we  were,  came  to  me  and  inquired 
about  my  country  and  my  friends  in  Swearah  ; said  he 
knew  all  the  consuls  there,  and  told  me  their  names  were 
Renshaw,  Josef  Estevan,  and  Corte.  He  said  he  was 
going  to  Swearah,  and  should  be  there  in  ten  days,  and 
would  carry  a letter  for  me  if  my  master  would  let  me 
write  : but  we  had  no  paper.  I informed  him  that  my 
friend  was  named  Renshaxv , guessing  him  to  be  the 


144  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

English  consul.  This  old  man  told  my  master  he  be 
lieved  I spoke  the  truth,  and  that  I had  been  at  Swearar 
which  from  his  discourse  I understood  to  be  the  same  a 
Mogadore.  He  then  set  off  eastward  on  his  mule,  whic 
was  a very  large  and  handsome  one.  All  the  people  tha 
passed  here  appeared  very  friendly  to  our  masters  ; the’ 
wished  to  know  our  story,  and  requested  my  opinion  c 
their  horses,  saddles  and  bridles,  muskets,  scimitars,  an< 
accoutrements  in  general,  &c.  all  of  which  I declared  t< 
be  of  the  best  possible  kind.  This  morning  Sidi  Hame 
bought  a hive  of  honey,  and  undertook  to  give  some  of 
to  us,  but  was  not  able  to  carry  his  kind  intentions  int< 
effect,  for  at  the  moment  he  was  handing  some  to  me 
Hassar’s  men  rushed  on  him  and  got  possession  of  th( 
whole,  which  they  devoured  in  a minute  : there  was  nc 
getting  it  back,  and  after  a long  and  violent  dispute  witl 
Hassar  and  his  company  respecting  it,  he  procured  anothei 
hive,  and  being  assisted  by  the  man  from  whom  he  bought 
it,  and  a number  of  strangers,  he  succeeded  in  distri- 
buting amongst  us  about  three  pounds  of  the  poorest  pari 
of  the  comb. 


CHAPTER  XVL 

The  company  is  divided — They  set  off  to  the  eastward — 
Their  masters  are  attacked  by  a band  of  robbers. 

After  we  had  eaten  this,  our  masters  prepared  the 
camels,  and  Hassar’s  company  divided,  that  is  to  say, 
two  men  and  all  the  women  and  children  took  the  plain 
great  route  which  led  east  in  a deep  valley,  driving  off 
about  one-half  of  the  camels  ; Hassar  and  the  others  drove 
off  the  rest  (including  ours)  in  a N.  E.  direction,  and  we 
with  our  masters,  accompanied  by  two  other  men,  pro- 
ceeded along  the  river’s  eastern  bank  to  the  northward  for 
a short  distance,  and  then  ascended  the  high,  steep,  and 
craggy  mountains  eastward  of  us.  The  labour  in  clam- 
bering up  these  steep  precipices  is  indescribable  ; we  con- 
tin  :ed  mounting  them  as  fast  as  possible  for  about  four 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


14-5 


hours,  and  I was  fully  convinced  our  masters  took  that 
i:  route  for  fear  they  should  be  followed  and  surprised  in  the 
night  by  some  who  had  seen  us,  and  thus  be  robbed  of 
their  slaves  and  other  property.  After  climbing  over  the 
highest  peaks  of  these  mountains,  we  saw  Hassar  and  part 
of  his  company  who  had  driven  the  camels,  and  had  got- 
ten up  by  another  and  more  practicable  path.  It  was  now 
near  night,  and  we  travelled  along  the  craggy  steeps,  as- 
sisting one  another  over  the  most  difficult  parts,  while 
Hassar  sought  out  the  easiest  places  for  the  ascent  of  the 
camels.  Coming  at  length  to  a small  level  spot  of  ground, 
we  saw  some  tents,  and  directed  our  course  towards  them : 
the  tents  were  twelve  in  number,  and  placed  in  a semi- 
circle. Having  approached  to  within  one  hundred  yards 
in  front  of  the  largest  one,  our  masters  seated  themselves 
on  the  ground  with  their  backs  towards  the  tents,  and  a 
woman  soon  came  out  bringing  a bowl  of  tvater,  which 
she  presented  to  them  after  the  usual  salutations  of  La - 
bez,  &c,  &c. 

Our  masters  drank  of  the  water,  and  Sidi  Hamet  was 
soon  after  presented  with  a bowl  filled  w ith  dates  lately 
ducked  from  the  trees  and  not  fully  ripe  : these  he  gave 
:o  us ; though  Seid,  Abdallah,  and  Hassar  snatched  each 
it  handful,  to  which  we  were  forced  to  submit : wre  found 
hem  excellent,  but  did  not  know  at  that  time  what  sort 
if  fruit  they  were.  Here  we  remained  during  the  night, 
md  rested  our  emaciated  bodies,  which  were,  if  possible, 
more  fatigued  than  they  ever  were  before. 

October  the  21st,  we  set  off  to  the  northward  very 
parly,  and  made  down  towards  the  sea  through  numerous 
,teep  gullies,  and  got  on  to  the  inclined  plane  below  the 
ormer  sea-shore,  about  mid-day ; here  were  the  same 
.ort  of  marks  in  this  bank  that  we  had  before  observed, 
md  the  same  signs  of  its  having  been  laved  by  the  ocean, 
vVe  wrent  along  through  the  same  kind  of  thick  bushes  as 
hose  I have  before  described,  near  to  the  cliffs  that  at 
iresent  formed  a barrier  to  the  mighty  waters,  where  we 
liscovered  a number  of  tents,  and  soon  reached  them, 
iere  our  masters  Sidi  Hamet  and  Hassar,  were  recog- 
fized  by  some  of  the  men,  who  wrere  in  all  about  twenty, 
vith  their  familes  ; these  people  had  large  sacks  of  barley 

* 19 


14b 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


with  them,  which  they  had  procured  far  eastward  up  the 
country.  Sidi  Harnet  was  now  sick  with  violent  pains  inU 
his  head  and  in  all  his  limbs.  These  people  (who  were 
Arabs,  as  all  are  who  live  in  tents  in  the  country)  took 
compassion  on  him,  and  cleared  a tent  for  him  to  lie  un- 
der, where  having  made  up  a large  fire,  he  kept  his  head 
towards  it,  turning  about  and  almost  roasting  his  brains, 
but  obtained  no  relief  from  this  manner  of  treating  his! 
disorder.  He  next  had  recourse  to  another  singular  reme- 
dy : he  had  a large  knife  put  into  the  fire  and  heated  red 
hot ; then  made  his  brother  draw  the  back  of  it,  hot  as  it 
was,  several  times  across  the  top  of  his  head,  making  it 
hiss  (as  may  well  be  supposed)  in  all  directions  : — when 
it  had  in  some  measure  cooled,  he  would  again  heat  it  as  (, 
before,  then  making  bare  his  legs  and  arms,  he  went 
through  with  the  process  of  striking  its  back  along  them 
at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches,  scorching  off  the 
skin  ; and  though  it  made  him  twitch  and  jump  at  every: 
touch,  he  continued  to  do  it  for  the  space  of  an  hour  or 
more.  Burns  had  been  very  ill  for  some  time,  and  was  so 
weak  that  he  scarcely  was  able  to  stand,  and  could  not: 
walk — he  was,  therefore,  always  placed  on  a camel,  and 
as  Sidi  Hamet  was  now  applying  to  himself  a remedy  for 
what  he  thought  a stroke  of  the  moon,  he  undertook  to 
administer  the  red  hot  knife  to  the  limbs  of  poor  Burns, 
who  from  mere  want  of  bodily  strength  was  not  able,j 
poor  fellow,  to  jump,  but  would  at  every  touch  cry  out,; 
“ God  have  mercy  upon  me.”  As  I was  hungry,  1 beg- 
ged of  my  masters  to  let  me  go  and  search  for  muscles 
on  the  sea  beach,  (for  there  was  a hollow  at  a little  dis- 
tance, through  which  we  might  gain  it,)  but  they  refused, 
saying,  “to-morrow,  if  God  please,  we  shall  be  on  the! 
sea  beach  ; there  are  no  muscles  on  this  part  of  the  coast 
here,  however,  we  received  a good  supper  of  /hash,  or 
pudding,  and  rested  our  wearied  limbs  under  the  tent 
with  our  masters.  | 

October  the  22d,  we  went  forward,  driving  our  own 
camels  only  : as  Hassar  had  taken  the  young  one,  we  had 
but  three  remaining  ; so  we  rode  by  turns,  crossing  the 
deep  hollows  which  had  been  worn  down  by  the  rains  or 
other  causes,  until  afternoon,  when  we  were  forced  to 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


147 


have  recourse  to  the  sea  beach  to  get  past  one  of  these 
deep  places,  whose  sides  were  so  steep  as  to  render  a 
passage  down  it  impracticable.  When  we  gained  the 
beach,  we  found  ourselves  on  a narrow  strip  of  land, 
which  was  then  dry,  the  tide  being  out ; this  extended 
in  length  eight  or  ten  miles,  but  from  the  water’s  edge 
to  the  perpendicular  cliffs  on  our  right,  not  more  than 
ten  yards : these  cliffs  appeared  to  be  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height.  When  we  came  to  the  sea  water,  I 
went  into  it,  and  let  a surf  wash  over  me,  that  I might 
once  more  feel  its  refreshing  effects ; but  my  master, 
fearing  I should  be  carried  away  by  the  receding  waves, 
told  me  not  to  go  near  them  again.  As  we  proceeded 
along  this  narrow  beach,  and  had  passed  over  half  its 
length,  the  huge  cliffs  overhanging  us  on  our  right,  with 
i the  ocean  on  our  left — -just  as  we  were  turning  a point, 

! we  observed  four  men,  armed  each  with  a musket  and 
scimitar,  spring  from  beneath  the  jutting  rocks,  to  inter- 
cept our  march.  Our  masters  were  at  this  time  on  the 
' camels,  but  they  instantly  leaped  off,  at  the  same  time 
unsheathing  their  guns:  to  retreat  would  betray  fear,  and 
lead  to  inevitable  destruction — so  they  determined  to  ad- 
vance, two  against  four,  and  Sidi  Hamet,  though  still  in 
so  weak  a state  as  to  be  thought  incapable  of  walking 
before  he  saw  these  men,  now  ran  towards  them  with  his 
i musket  in  his  hand,  while  Seid,  that  cruel  coward,  lag- 
ged behind — so  true  it  is,  that  the  most  generous  and 
[ humane  men  are  always  the  most  courageous.  The  foe 
; was  but  a few  paces  from  us,  and  stood  in  a line  across 
the  beach.  Sidi  Hamet,  holding  his  gun  ready  to  fire, 
demanded  if  it  was  peace  ? while  he  eyed  their  counte- 
nances to  see  if  they  were  deceitful : one  of  them  answer- 
ed, “ it  is  peace,”  and  extended  his  hand  to  receive  that 
of  Sidi  Hamet,  who  gave  him  his  right  hand,  suspecting 
no  treachery  ; but  the  fellow  grasped  it  fast,  and  would 
have  shot  him  and  Seid  in  a moment,  but  at  that  critical 
juncture,  two  of  Hassar’s  men  came  in  sight,  running 
like  the  wind  towards  us,  with  each  a double  barrelled  gun 
in  his  hand,  all  ready  to  fire  ; the  robbers  saw  them  as 
they  turned  the  point,  and  the  fellow  who  had  seized  Sidi 
Harriet’s  hand,  instantly  let  it  go,  turning  the  affair  off 


148 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


with  a loud  laugh,  and  saying  he  only  did  it  to  frightei 
him  : this  excuse  was  deemed  satisfactory,  merely  be 
cause  our  men  did  not  now  feel  themselves  sufficiently 
strong  to  resent  this  insult,  and  we  proceeded  on  : bu 
these  fellows,  who  were  very  stout  and  active,  hoveret 
around  us,  slaves,  endeavouring  to  separate  us  from  oui 
masters,  as  it  appeared,  in  the  hope  of  seizing  on  us  a* 
their  own,  which  Sidi  Hamet  observing,  ordered  me  wit! 
my  men  to  keep  close  to  the  camels’  heels,  while  he  and 
his  company  (now  strong,  though  none  of  them  armed 
with  scimitars)  kept  between  us  and  the  banditti.  When 
they  found  that  our  masters  were  too  vigilant  for  them, 
they  took  French  leave  of  us,  and  ran  along  the  beach 
with  incredible  swiftness,  chasing  each  other,  and  taking 
up  and  throwing  stones,  that  I should’ suppose  would 
weigh  from  six  to  eight  pounds,  with  a jerk  that  made; 
them  whiz  through  the  air  like  cannon  balls  : they  threw 
them  against  the  cliffs  of  rocks,  which  resounded  with! 
the  blow,  and  many  of  the  stones  were  dashed  to  pieces 
as  they  struck.  I could  see  the  marks  they  aimed  at,  and 
that  the  stones  went  with  great  precision,  as  well  as  force., 
I had  before  no  idea  that  it  was  possible  for  men  to  ac- 
quire by  practice  such  enormous  power  of  arm  ; for  they 
threw  these  stones  with  such  velocity,  that  I am  con- 1 
vinced  they  would  have  killed  a man  at  the  distance  of 
fifty  yards  at  least. 

Having  come  to  the  end  of  the  beach,  we  ascended  the 
bank  again,  leaving  these  formidable  ruffians  masters  of 
the  shore,  where  they,  no  doubt,  got  some  plunder  be- 
fore they  left  it.  After  we  had  mounted  the  bank  and 
were  clear,  Sidi  Hamet  told  me  that  the  fellows  we  had 
met  were  very  bad  men,  and  would  have  killed  him  and 
Seid,  aqd  would  have  taken  us  away  where  I could  never 
have  hoped  to  see  my  wife  and  children  again,  if  the 
great  God  had  not  at  that  time  sent  to  our  relief  the  two 
men  : he  then  asked  if  I would  fight  to  save  his  life  ? I 
told  him  I would,  and  that  no  one  should  kill  him  while 
I was  alive,  if  it  was  in  my  power  to  prevent  it : “ Good 
Riley,  (said  he,)  you  are  worth  fighting  for  ; God  is  with 
yon,  or  I must  have  lost  my  life  there,” 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


149 


CHAPTER  XVIL 

I^ome  fresh  fish  are  procured — They  pass  several  small 
walled  villages , and  meet  with  robbers  on  horseback. 

Near  evening  we  met  and  passed  a man  driving  an 
5S  laden  with  fish,  probably  of  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds 
/eight  each  : they  had  much  the  shape  and  appearance 
if  f salmon,  and  our  masters  endeavoured  to  procure  one 
•om  the  owner  for  me,  as  I gave  them  to  understand  I 
n /as  very  fond  of  fish,  and  that  it  would  be  good  for 
lurns,  but  the  man  would  not  part  with  one  of  them  on 
ay  terms.  At  evening  we  found  Hassar’s  and  his  fami- 
ps  tents  already  pitched  on  a little  hill  near  the  cliffs,  and 
i /e  joined  this  company.  Soon  after,  Seid,  Abdallah, 
nd  two  of  Hassar’s  men,  went  out  with  their  guns  : — 
1 about  two  hours,  those  with  us,  namely,  Sidi  Harriet, 
lassar,  and  two  others,  hearing  footsteps  approaching, 
Jeized  their  muskets,  and  springing  forward  from  their 
:e  ;nts,  demanded,  who  came  there  ? It  was  Seid  and  his 
: ompany,  who  came  towards  me,  and  unfolding  a blanket, 
eii  jrned  out  four  large  fish  of  the  same  kind  we  had  seen 
itlefore.  “ Riley,  (said  Sidi  Hamet,)  are  these  good  to 
Jat?”  I answered  in  the  affirmative — “ take  them  and 
at  them,  then,  (said  he,)  but  be  careful  not  to  choke 
ii/ourselves  with  the  bones.”  I took  three  of  them,  cut 
hem  into  pieces,  and  put  them  into  an  earthen  pot  that 
telonged  to  Hassar,  (this  pot  the  Arabs  call  giderah ,} 
dded  some  water,  and  boiled  them  directly,  and  we  ate 
ill  we  were  satisfied.  We  drank  the  soup,  which  was 
xtremely  grateful  and  invigorating,  and  helped  to  check 
he  dysentery,  with  which  we  were  all  much  troubled 
ince  eating  the  honey-comb.  We  had  travelled  this  day, 
think,  about  forty  miles,  and  slept  at  night  within  a 
;ircle  formed  by  our  masters  and  their  camels,  out  of 
vhich  we  were  not  suffered  to  go,  as  Sidi  Hamet  told' 
ne  there  were  many  robbers  in  this  place,  who  would 
eize  on  us,  and  carry  us  off  in  a minute,  without  the 
jossibility  of  my  ever  being  restored  to  my  family. 


150 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


October  21st,  at  day  break,  we  set  forward  on  oi 
journey,  all  in  company,  (except  Hassar  and  the  worm 
and  children.)  The  fresh  fish  we  had  eaten  the  night  bi 
fore,  had  made  us  very  thirsty  ; and  about  noon  we  can 
to  a kind  of  cistern,  or  reservoir  of  water,  on  the  pathw; 
side  : this  reservoir  was  built  of  stone  and  lime  ; its  tc 
was  arched  like  a vault,  rising  about  four  feet  from  tl 
ground,  and  the  cistern  was  at  least  eighty  feet  in  lengt 
eight  or  ten  feet  in  breadth  in  the  inside,  and  appeared 
be  twenty  feet  deep.  It  was  now  nearly  full  of  wate 
which  had  been  led  into  it  by  means  of  gutters,  forme 
and  arranged  so  as  to  receive  and  conduct  the  rain  wat 
when  it  descends  from  the  neighbouring  hills,  and  is  cc 
lected  in  a stream  in  this  valley.  I understood  this  wat1 
was  the  common  property  of  all  travellers  along  this  rout  i 
and  that  the  cistern  was  built  by  a very  rich  and  pioi1 
man,  solely  for  the  purpose  of  refreshing  the  weary  travel 
ler,  and  that  it  contained  water  the  whole  year  rouni 
even  though  there  should  be  a continued  drought  for  s 
twelvemonth ; but  no  person  of  our  party  ventured! 
water  his  camel  from  it,  considering  it  as  sacred  for  tl 
use  of  man  alone.  We  were  still  travelling  on  the  slop 
between  the  first  and  second  banks  of  the  sea,  which  it 
these  parts  was  much  cut  up,  occasioned  by  the  watei 
which  had  from  time  to  time  poured  down  from  the  neigl 
bouring  mountains,  and  formed  steep  and  very  deep  gu 
lies,  across  which  we  were  obliged  to  climb.  The  pat! 
on  this  inclined  plane  >vas  not  much  frequented,  and  tl 
margin  of  the  bank  on  our  right  hand  had  been  newll 
ploughed  in  many  places  here  and  there,  in  the  nooks  cl 
fertile  hollows.  On  the  high  lands  we  saw  two  sma 
walled  towns,  with  prickly-pear  bushes  planted  aroun 
them.  Near  these  towns  or  walled  villages,  some  me 
were  employed  in  ploughing  with  a pair  of  beasts,  gene 
rally  a cow  and  an  ass  yoked  together  in  a very  singula 
manner,  which  I shall  hereafter  describe,  and  others  wer 
watching  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  on  the  surroundin: 
eminences,  while  the  women  were  seen  lugging  dow: 
wrood  on  their  backs  from  the  tops  of  the  lofty  hills,  an< 
large  jars  or  pitchers  of  water  from  a distant  valley.  The; 
generally  had  a child  on  their  backs,  clinging  with  its  arm 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


151 


:mnd  the  neck  of  the  mother,  and  the  jar  or  pitcher  rest- 
d on  their  shoulders  in  a manner  that  reminded  me  of 
ie  story  of  the  beautiful  Rebekah,  in  holy  writ,  coming 
i the  well  with  her  pitcher. 

About  noon,  we  came  near  a considerable  walled  vil- 
jge,  that  stood  close  by  the  road ; it  had  gardens  close 
1/  the  walls  on  all  sides,  and  there  was  one  near  the  gate- 
ay  planted  with  prickly-pear.  These  gardens  were  de- 
nded  by  heaps  of  dry  thorn  bushes,  which  served  as  an 
itward  defence  to  the  town  : these  heaps  were  about  six 
et  high,  and  the  walls  fifteen  feet.  Our  masters  stopped 
;ar  the  gate  for  some  moments,  and  no  one  seemed  dis- 
used to  give  them  a drink  of  water,  contenting  them- 
Ives  with  gazing  at  them  over  the  walls ; so  on  they 
ent,  cursing  the  inhospitality  of  these  villagers.  Near 
ght  we  descended  into  a delightful  valley,  whose  bottom 
as  level  and  well  disposed  into  handsome  gardens,  fenced 
I:  with  thorn  bushes  and  stone  walls,  and  divided  into 
jmerous  separate  plots.  Round  about  them,  and  at  their 
arners,  stood  many  fine  fig-trees,  which  looked  healthy, 

1ilOugh  they  were  leafless,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the 
ason : we  saw  also  a few  pomegranate-trees.  These 
ardens  or  plots  were  planted  with  different  kinds  of  vege- 
bles,  such  as  turnips,  cabbage,  onions,  &c. ; they  were 
atered  by  a small  stream  that  flowed  from  the  hills  at  a 
lort  distance  above,  and  was  conducted  round  and  through 
ie  whole  of  them  by  gutters  dug  for  that  purpose. 

The  owners  of  these  gardens  lived  in  two  little  walled 
illages,  near  the  top  of  the  bank  on  the  east  side,  but 
ley  offered  us  no  refreshment.  We  passed  in  the  course 
? the  day,  three  beds  of  streams  or  rivers,  which  were 
aw  dry,  and  one  whose  mouth  was  filled  with  sand,  so 
; to  stop  its  communication  with  the  sea,  though  there 
as  some  water  in  it,  where  people  from  all  quarters  were 
atering  their  cows,  sheep,  goats,  asses,  and  camels,  and 
irrying  it  off  in  skins  and  pitchers.  In  the  afternoon,  a 
ampany  of  ten  men  on  horseback,  and  well  armed,  rode 
wards  us  on  the  plain,  making  a loud  jingling  with  their 
aurs  against  their  stirrups,  and  crying  out,  Hah ! hah  ! 
ah  ! hah  ! Our  company  consisted  of  our  two  masters, 
ad  two  of  Hassar’s  men,  Abdallah,  and  one  stranger, 


152 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


who  had  joined  us  that  day  ; and  being  armed  with  fi: 
double  barrelled  muskets,  and  some  scimitars,  they 
spuang  from  their  camels  on  the  approach  of  the  strange 
drew  their  guns  from  their  sheaths,  primed  them  ane 
and  took  a station  in  front  of  their  property, -in  a li 
ready  for  action. 

The  horsemen  rode  up  to  within  five  yards  of  our  m 
at  full  speed,  and  then  stopped  their  horses  short.  I e 
pected  now  to  see  a battle,  though  I rather  feared  our  m 
would  be  trampled  to  death  by  the  horses  ; for  their  arr 
could  not  have  saved  them  from  the  shock  of  this  impeti 
ous  onset,  yet  they  were  on  the  point  of  firing  the  mome 
the  horses  stopped.  The  chief  of  the  horsemen  then  d 
manded,  in  a very  imperious  tone,  who  our  masters  wen 
where  they  came  from  ? if  they  knew  Sidi  Ishem  ? wh 
countrymen  we,  their  slaves,  were  ? and  where  they  h; 
found  us  ? Sidi  Hamet  replied  to  all  their  questions  in 
sharp  quick  manner,  and  as  briefly  as  possible,  and  in  li 
turn  demanded,  “ who  are  you  ? where  do  you  con 
from  ? and,  what  right  have  you  to  ride  up  to  me  in  su< 
a manner,  and  stop  me  and  my  slaves  on  the  road  ?”  Th 
is  as  near  as  I could  understand  what  they  said.  A Ion 
dispute  was  kept  up  on  both  sides  for  half  an  hour,  wh( 
it  ceased,  and  we  were  allowed  to  proceed  ; while  tlj 
others  rode  off  to  the  southward  among  the  mountain 
The  force  on  both  sides  was  so  nearly  equal,  that  I hay 
little  doubt  this  was  the  only  circumstance  that  prevente 
a battle. 

We  travelled  on  till  long  after  dark,  when  we  came  to 
number  of  tents,  and  stopped  for  the  night,  and  here  \\ 
were  treated  with  some  dried  muscles  and  barley  puddim 
Hassar  and  his  family  had  not  travelled  with  us  the  la: 
day,  but  the  two  men  who  had  assisted  in  relieving  i j 
from  our  critical  situation  on  the  beach,  were  in  companj 
and  we  had  also  been  joined  by  one  more  Arab,  and  tw 
camels.  Ever  since  we  had  come  to  the  cultivated  cour 
try  off  the  desert,  we  had  found  the  people  sickly ; man 
of  them  were  afflicted  with  swelled  legs,  and  some  wit 
what  I took  to  be  the  leprosy  ; and  also  with  pains  in  dii 
ferent  parts  of  their  bodies  and  limbs ; though  when  o 
the  desert  we  did  not  see  the  smallest  sign  of  sickness  o 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


153 


tisorder  among  its  inhabitants.  They  now  considered  us 
|s  skilled  in  medicine,  and  consulted  me  wherever  I came; 
lie  of  the  women  here  had  a swelled  breast,  which  was 
stonishingly  large,  and  very  much  inflamed  : she  was  in 
uch  pain  as  to  cry  out  at  every  breath.  They  wished  me 
o examine  it,  and  prescribe  a remedy,  which  I did  by 

i ecommending  a poultice  of  the  barley  /hash , or  pudding, 
a be  applied,  and  renewed  often  until  the  swelling  should 

■ubside  or  burst.  The  woman  was  very  thankful,  gave 
:i  he  a drink  of  water  and  a handful  of  muscles,  and  re- 
uested  I would  examine  a swelled  leg  of  her  brother ; 
n his  was  also  inflamed,  and  very  painful : — perceiving  no 
kin  broken,  I directed  a thick  plaster  of  coarse  salt  to  be 
a iound  round  it,  so  as  fully  to  cover  the  afflicted  part ; this 
iev  did  immediately,  and  the  man  thought  he  felt  instan- 
tneous  relief. 

ii  From  the  great  expedition  we  had  used,  I think  we 

iiust  have  travelled  this  day  about  fifty  miles,  as  we  were 
Imost  continually  on  the  camels,  and  they  going  a great 
art  of  the  time  on  a trot.  In  the  afternoon  of  this  day, 
we  discovered  land  that  was  very  high,  a good  way  east- 
ward of  us,  stretching  about  north  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
-ach.  We  saw  it  when  on  a high  hill  and  at  an  immense 
istance  ; looking  over  the  ocean,  which  was  near  us,  it 
ppeared  like  a high  and  distant  island  : “ There  is  Swea- 

Ith,  Riley,”  said  Sidi  Hamet,  pointing  to  the  northern- 
lost  land  in  view : it  was  a great  way  off.  I asked  him 
ow  many  days  it  would  take  us  to  get  there  ? He  answer- 
d,  “ Ten,  at  our  slow  pace.” 


CHAPTER  XVIIL 

Vheir  masters  commit  an  error , which  they  are  compelled 
to  redress— Sidi  Hamet  and  his  brother  Seid  Jhght— 
Horace"' s critical  situation — They  come  to  villages. 

October  the  23d,  we  were  awakened  without  making 
ny  noise,  two  hours  before  daylight,  and  went  on  out 
ourney.  I suspected  there  was  some  roguery  goine  on, 

20  ' ‘ ' 


154 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


because  we  had  never  before  started  in  the  night ; and  v 
had  not  travelled  more  than  two  leagues,  when,  just  at  tl 
dawn  of  day,  we  heard  the  sound  of  horses’  feet  comir; 
up  at  full  speed  behind  us  : the  clanking  of  the  arms 
their  riders  against  each  other,  and  spurs  against  their  sti 
rups,  made  a great  noise.  Our  masters  stripped  the  cove 
from  their  guns,  and  gave  them  to  me  to  carry.  Tl 
horsemen,  four  in  number,  came  up  by  this  time,  ar 
passing  us  at  a short  distance  on  our  right,  rode  rour 
before  our  camels  and  stopped  them.  Our  men  were  fit 
in  number,  with  four  double  barrelled  guns  ; and  biddin 
me  to  keep  as  close  to  them  as  possible  with  my  mei 
they  ran  at  their  greatest  spepd  to  the  encounter,  whil 
we  followed  on  as  fast  as  we  could,  fearing  to  be  separate 
from  them,  (as  it  was  still  quite  dark,)  and  falling  into  tl 
hands  of  the  banditti.  They  approached  each  other  wii 
loud  cries ; the  voices  of  those  on  horseback  sounded  lit 
trumpets,  and  those  of  our  masters  were  very  little  lowe 
so  that  the  mountains  near  rang  again  with  the  sound, 
expected  every  moment  a slaughter  would  commence 
each  one  strained  his  throat  to  speak,  or  rather  to  ye 
louder  than  his  opponents.  I had  approached  near  m 
master,  and  could  distinctly  hear  one  of  the  horsemen  a< 
cuse  him  of  a breach  of  hospitality,  and  reproach  him  i 
the  most  opprobrious  terms,  for  some  wrong  which  1: 
alleged  had  been  done  to  him  ; the  others  were  at  the  sarr 
time  wrangling  with  our  other  men.  This  war  of  wore 
having  subsided  a little,  one  of  them  asked  my  mast< 
his  name,  and  after  considerable  delay  on  account  < 
punctillio,  (each  insisting  that  the  other  should  tell  h 
name  first,)  my  master  told  him  his  name  was  Sidi  Harriet 
the  other  then  said  his  name  was  All  Mohammed : — the 
ensued  a long  dispute  between  them,  they  mutuall 
charging  each  other  with  perfidy,  &c.  During  this  intei 
val,  and  as  daylight  appeared,  our  adversaries  gaine 
strength,  for  they  were  joined  by  many  armed  and  unanr 
ed  men,  running  on  foot,  and  according  as  they  increase 
in  force,  our  party  lowered  their  tone ; but  the  clamou 
was  still  so  loud  that  I frequently  could  understand  nothin; 
of  what  was  said.  The  Arab  who  had  joined  our  com 
panv  with  two  camels  the  day  before,  did  not  set  out  wit 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


155 


ills  this  morning,  but  he  now  came  running  up  : our  mas- 
ers had  driven  off  his  camels,  and  this  was  the  cause  of 
he  uproar  that  was  now  raging.  The  purloined  camels 
vere  then  in  our  drove,  and  while  the  others  were  quar- 
elling  about  the  matter,  the  owner  ran  round  and  drove 
- lis  camels  back.  When  our  honest  masters  found  they 
:ould  not  keep  what  they  had  feloniously  taken,  they  began 
o lower  their  voices.  By  this  time  the  sun  had  made  its 

I ippearance,  and  for  two  hours  prior  I had  every  moment 
, ixpected  a bloody  scuffle.  1 knew  our  masters  were 
J orave,  but  I had  no  doubt  they  would  be  overpowered  by 

lumbers,  in  which  event  we  should  fall  to  the  lot  of  the 

II  ;onquerors,  who  were  strangers  to  us ; and  it  was  not 
irobable  that  these  men  would  be  as  humane  to  us  as  Sidi 
Hamet  had  been ; nor  was  I indeed  certain  that  we  our- 
selves should  not  be  killed  in  the  contest,  both  parties 
aeing  much  enraged.  I felt  our  situation  to  be  dreadful 
ndeed  ; but  at  length  Sidi  Hamet  spoke  to  Ali  Moham- 
med in  a low  tone  of  voice,  and  requested  he  would  ride 
apart  from  the  others  with  him,  with  which  he  complied 
and  they  came  near  where  I sat,  trembling  with  apprehen- 
sion. Sidi  Hamet  now  told  Ali  that  his  party  had  not  the 
least  intention  of  driving  off  any  camels  but  their  own, 

w and  that  the  mistake  had  been  occasioned  entirely  by  the 

(darkness  of  the  night.  He  then  went  on  protesting  that 
he  was  incapable  of  committing  an  unworthy  action  ; that 
he  abhorred  a robber  and  a thief,  and  that  as  he  was  entire - 
: ly  innocent  of  intentionally  driving  off  the  man’s  camels, 
he  would  not  acknowledge  he  had  done  wrong  designedly, 
but  would  rather  lose  his  life  in  maintaining  his  character, 
and  would  sell  it  as  dearly  as  possible.  Ali  Mohammed 
on  this  appeared  to  be  satisfied,  and  said  to  him,  “ I am 
el  Rais,  (the  chief,)  and  am  your  friend,  because  you  are 
a brave  man  so  making  Sidi  Hamet’s  excuse  to  those 
about  him,  and  the  lost  camels  being  recovered,  they  left 
us  to  pursue  our  journey. 

We  had  gone  up  from  the  sea-board,  and  were  passing 
between  high  mountains  towards  the  southeast,  Avhen  the 
late  affray  happened,  but  about  noon  we  reached  a plain, 
and  took  an  eastern  direction.  Hassar’s  men  with  their 
camels,  and  Abdallah  with  his  camel,  now  filed  oft'  to  the 


i56 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


left,  leaving  us  with  our  masters  and  their  own  camel 
only,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight  among  the  bushes.  Th 
mortifying  result  of  the  morning’s  enterprise,  had  renderei 
Seid  uncommonly  ill  natured:  he  had  claimed  Horace  a 
his  slave  from  the  very  beginning,  and  Mr.  Savage  als< 
belonged  to  him.  He  had  always  doubted  my  word  to  hi  s 
brother,  and  would  not  believe  that  a miserable  wretcl 
like  me  could  find  a friend  to  advance  money  for  my  ran 
som,  though  both  he,  Hassar,  and  -all  the  company,  hat; 
a high  opinion  of  mv  courage,  since  I put  my  own  life  ii 
jeopardy  to  save  that  of  Mr.  Savage,  at  the  time  he  faint 
cd  : — Seid  had  endeavoured  to  sell  his  slaves  at  evert 
place  we  came  to,  after  leaving  the  desert.  Hassar,  a: 
well  as  others,  took  a particular  fancy  to  Horace,  and  hac 
offered  a large  sum  for  him  in  camels  and  other  merchant 
dise,  but  the  interference  of  Sidi  Hamet,  who  had  sworri 
that  Horace  should  not  be  separated  from  me,  aided  by 
my  often  renewed  entreaties  and  my  tears,  whenever  1 
heard  it  suggested,  had  saved  him  thus  far.  As  we  wen 
now  approaching  the  Moorish  dominions,  powerful  chiefs 
with  large  bodies  of  armed  men  intent  on  plunder,  wen 
riding  about  and  scouring  the  country  in  every  direction, 
and  Seid  had  come  to  a determination  to  take  his  slaves 
and  make  the  most  of  them.  Seid  was  a younger  brothei 
of  Sidi  Hamet,  and  had,  until  now,  submitted  in  some 
degree  to  his  counsel,  though  they  had  many  slight  quar- 
rels at  different  periods  of  the  journey.  Where  we  stopped! 
the  preceding,  night,  the  Arabs  strove  hard  to  get  pos- 
session of  Horace.  Seid  had,  to  my  knowledge,  made 
a bargain  to  sell  him  in  the  morning,  but  was  dissuaded 
from  fulfilling  it  by  his  brother. 

We,  slaves,  were  now  five  in  all,  travelling  on  foot, 
but  moving  forward  very  slowly,  for  we  were  worn  to  the 
bones  by  our  various  and  complicated  sufferings.  It 
seemed  that  the  breath  of  hope  alone  had  kept  the  vital 
spark  from  being  totally  extinguished.  Sidi  Hamet  was 
riding  on  his  big  camel  before  us,  when  Seid  ordered  us 
to  halt,  but  the  other  desired  us  to  come  on ; upon  which 
Seid  laid  hold  of  Mr.  Savage  and  Horace,  and  stopped 
them.  It  was  now  that  Sidi  Hamet’s  wrath  was  kindled — * 
he  leaped  from  his  camel,  and  darting  like  lightning  up  to 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


157 


Jeid,  laid  hold  of  him  and  disengaged  Mr.  Savage  and 
■ Iorace  from  his  grasp.  They  clinched  each  other  like 
. ons,  and  with  fury  in  their  looks,  each  strove  to  throw 
he  other  to  the  ground.  Seid  was  the  largest  and  stoutest 
a an ; they  writhed  and  twined  in  every  shape  until  both 
fell,  but  Sidi  Hamet  was  undermost : fire  seemed  to  flash 
rom  their  eyes,  whilst  they  twisted  around  each  other 
ke  a couple  of  serpents,  until  at  length  Sidi  Hamet,  by 
j uperior  activity  or  skill,  disengaged  himself  from  his 
: mother’s  grasp,  and  both  sprang  up  on  their  feet.  In- 
m tantly  they  snatched  their  muskets  at  the  same  moment, 
nd  each  retiring  a few  paces  with  great  rapidity  and  indig- 

Jiation,  tore  the  cloth  covers  from  their  guns,  and  pre- 
ented  them  at  each  other’s  breast  with  dreadful  fury  : — 
hey  were  not  more  than  ten  yards  asunder,  and  both 
nust  have  fallen  dead,  had  they  fired.  Horror  had  seized 

I.nd  chilled  my  blood,  so  that  I could  neither  get  from 
hem,  nor  move,  indeed,  in  any  direction.  My  mind 
fvas  filled  with  inexpressible  apprehensions — “ My  God, 
:i|I  cried  aloud,)  have  mercy  on  these  unfortunate  brothers, 
eif.  pray  thee,  for  our  sakes,  and  suffer  them  not  to  spill 
|:aclt  other’s  blood.”  In  the  midst  of  this  ejaculation,  I 
was  started  by  the  report  of  two  muskets,  and  imagined 
hat  both  the  brothers  had  fallen  ; but  on  turning  my  eyes 

I igain  to  this  direful  scene,  I perceived  that  Sidi  Hamet 
lad  fired  the  contents  of  both  his  barrels  into  the  air, 
having  had  a moment’s  reflection,  whilst  priming  and 
locking  his  piece.  He  now  threw  it  on  the  ground,  then 
making  bare  his  bosom,  he  advanced  with  a firm  step  to- 
wards Seid,  and  with  an  energetic  voice  exclaimed,  “ I 
am  now  unarmed,  fire  ! your  brother’s  heart  is  ready  to 
receive  your  balls  ; glut  your  vengeance  on  your  bene- 
factor.” He  stopped  short : Seid  hesitated.  Mr.  Savage 
and  Horace  were  near  Seid,  who  threatened  them  with 
instant  death  if  they  moved.  Sidi  Hamet,  finding  his 
brother’s  mind  wavered,  ran  to  Horace,  and  sent  him  to- 
wards me,  telling  his  brother,  he  should  have  Clark  in 
Horace’s  stead,  whom  he  ordered  to  come  near  ; but  Seid 
would  not  consent  to  the  exchange,  whereupon  my  master 
added  Burns ; that  is,  two  for  one.  Seid  had  made  Mr. 
Savage  sit  down,  and  had  placed  one  of  his  feet  on  his 


158 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


thigh,  to  keep  him  there  ; while  his  brother  ordered  m 
to  go  with  Horace,  first  to  the  south  and  then  to  the  east 
ward,  following  the  camels  ; still  resolving  that  we  shoul< 
not  be  separated,  and  bade  Mr.  Savage  follow  us ; bu 
Seid,  presenting  his  gun,  told  him  if  he  offered  to  go,  h 
would  blow  his  brains  out.  As  Sidi  Hamet,  however 
bade  him  run,  he  obeyed,  and  when  he  came  near  me  w 
were  all  ordered  to  stop,  and  our  masters  seated  themselve 
on  the  ground  to  settle  the  dispute  by  figuring  on  the  san< 
with  their  fingers.  Here  they  calculated  it  every  way 
Clark  and  Burns  were  again  offered  for  Horace,  but  Sei( 
would  not  take  them  ; he  would  keep  the  slave  he  hac 
bought  with  his  money.  “ You  shall  not  separate  hin 
from  his  father,  (said  my  master,)  I have  sworn  it.’ 

“ Then  I will  destroy  him,”  exclaimed  Seid  furiously1 
and  springing  up,  he  seized  Horace  by  the  breast  ant 
dashed  him  on  the  ground  with  all  his  might.  The  forc< 
of  the  blow  beat  the  breath  from  his  body,  and  he  lay 
stretched  out  apparently  dead.  Overwhelmed  with  tht 
most  heart-rending  emotions,  I sank  to  the  earth  in  ar 
agony  of  despair.  My  master,  observing  my  anguish, 
said,  “ Go,  Riley,”  pointing  to  the  east.  With  tears  and 
sobs,  I told  him  I could  go,  for  Horace,  my  son,  wa; 
dead.  After  a flood  of  tears  had  relieved  my  swelling 
heart,  I reflected  that  it  was  useless  to  bewail  the  fate  of  my 
adopted  child,  as  I did  not  know  how  soon  it  might  be 
my  turn  to  suffer  a similar,  or  perhaps  a more  cruel  death. 
Seid’s  passion  now  began  to  subside  a little,  and  my  mas-; 
ter  then  went  to  Horace,  and  taking  him  by  the  hands, 
raised  him  upon  his  seat : his  breath  returned,  and  he  re- 
vived. Sidi  Hamet  melted  into  tears  at  the  sight : I saw 
the  big  drops  roll  down  his  cheeks,  while  in  a tender  tone 
he  said  to  Horace,  “ Go  to  Riley.”  The  spot  where  his 
head  fell  happened  to  be  clear  of  stones,  which  entirely  i 
covered  the  ground  on  every  side,  otherwise  his  brains 
must  have  been  dashed  out.  I went  up  to  him  as  quick  as1 
I could,  and  folding  him  in  my  arms,  asked  him  if  he 
was  much  hurt ; but  being  in  great  pain,  and  his  breath- 
ing being  not  yet  perfectly  restored,  he  was  incapable  of 
answering  me  : his  heart,  however,  was  in,  unison  with 
mine,  in  thanking  the  Author  of  our  being  that  his  life 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


159 


,vas  spared,  and  in  imploring  his  future  protection.  Our 
masters  again  seated  themselves,  in  order  to  discuss  this 
tffair  thoroughly,  and  began  to  speak  very  loud,  when, 
ortunately  for  us,  some  strangers  came  in  sight,  which 
eminded  them  that  their  united  force  was  necessary  for 
he  defence  of  themselves  and  their  property  ; so  they 
greed  to  seek  a village,  and  take  counsel  as  to  what  was 
>est  to  be  done. 

Then  turning  to  our  left  up  a hill,  we  soon  came  in 
ight  of  a village,  and  entered  it  by  passing  between  high 
vails.  Having  come  to  its  farther  extremity,  an  old,  but 
, very  respectable  locking  man,  (a  Moor,)  of  a light  olive 
olour,  came  out  of  his  gate,  and  welcomed  our  masters, 
aluting  them,  (as  is  customary,)  and  seeing  us  behind, 
old  us  to  sit  down  in  a shade  formed  by  his  wall,  and 
est  ourselves ; adding,  “ I will  give  you  some  food.” 
■Ye  accordingly  all  seated  ourselves,  and  while  the  food 
vas  preparing,  our  host  inquired  much  about  me  and  my 
, nen,  and  wished  to  know  how  I could  make  myself  un- 
derstood, (being  a Christian.)  Our  owners  told  him  all 
>ur  stories,  together  with  my  promises,  which  they  made 

Sue  repeat  in  his  presence.  They  wanted  again  to  know 
a what  my  property  consisted  ; if  I had  any  money  in  my 
>wn  country,  or  a house  ; how  much  money,  how  many 
lorses,  cows,  sheep,  goats,  asses,  camels,  &c. ; and  last- 
y,  what  number  of  wives  and  children  I had.  Having 
nswered  all  these  interrogations  to  their  satisfaction,  they 
nade  me  tell  what  Mr.  Savage,  Horace,  Clark,  and  Bums, 
rere  worth  to  me  ; how  much  property  I thought  they  had 
a their  own  country ; and  our  host,  who  spoke  a few 
vords  of  broken  Spanish,  asked  me  if  Swearah  was  not 
:alled  Mogdola  by  the  English  ? I answered  in  the  aflirma- 
ive  : — this  was  the  first  time  I had  heard  this  name  men- 
ioned  on  this  continent,  though  I had  endeavoured,  by 
nquiring  of  all  the  people  I had  spoken  with,  to  ascertain 
he  point ; but  it  appeared  they  had  never  heard  of  the 
lame.  One  bowl  of  boiled  barley  unhulled,  was  brought 
>ut  to  our  masters,  and  one  for  us — this  last  was  a very 
arge  one,  and  the  old  host  told  us  to  eat,  saying,  “ Coole , 
few,”  (eat,  captain.)  We  had  now  before  us,  for  the 
irst  time,  enough  of  this  food,  and  falling  too  with  keen 


160 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


appetites,  we  filled  our  stomachs,  and  were  satisfies 
leaving  some  in  the  bowl,  which  they  tried  hard  to  mall 
us  finish,  but  we  could  not.  Sidi  Hamet  would  not  tru: 
himself  again  with  his  brother,  without  having  some  pei 
son  in  company  to  take  his  part ; so  he  hired  a stout  youn 
fellow,  named  Bo-Mohammed,  to  go  along  with  us  t 
another  place  or  village,  not  far  distant,  and  we  set  off  fc; 
it,  travelling  at  first  down  towards  the  sea-coast,  and  pass 
ing  along  a kind  of  sandy  beach  where  the  salt  water  flowe 
in  at  high  tides:  we  saw  there,  under  the  side  of  a shelvin' 
rock,  two  boiling  springs  of  fresh  water,  which  formed 
considerable  stream.  This  was  the  first  spring  I had  see 
in  this  country,  and  having  taken  a good  drink  and  watei; 
ed  our  camels,  we  proceeded  toward  the  southeast  amon 
sands  that  had  drifted  from  the  sea- beach  ; there  we  rt 
mainecl  until  it  was  nearly  dark,  our  masters  fearing,  as  i 
were,  to  go  forward.  About  dark  we  resumed  our  course | 
and  soon  afterwards  arrived  at  a village,  where,  while  th 
barking  of  numerous  dogs  announced  to  their  owners  th 
arrival  of  strangers,  a grave  looking  man  came  out,  an 
silencing  the  curs,  bade  our  masters  welcome,  and  invite 
both  them  and  us  to  sit  down  near  his  walls,  until  h 
should  prepare  some  supper.  We  had  no  desire,  liowev 
er,  for  food,  some  of  us  having  oppressed  our  stomach' 
to  such  a degree  with  the  boiled  barley,  as  to  be  rack© 
with  pain,  and  scarce  able  to  breathe,  particularly  Mi 
Savage.  Our  present  host,  (whose  name  I soon  learn© 
was  Sidi  Mohammed,,)  after  causing  a mat  to  be  spreat 
near  his  wall,  seated  himself  and  our  masters  thereon,  ant 
desired  me  to  come  and  do  the  same.  He  now  mad 
similar  enquiries  to  those  made  by  the  former  persons  w 
had  met,  and  I satisfied  his  curiosity  as  well  as  I could 
He  then  informed  me  he  had  been  many  times  in  Swearah 
and  had  seen  the  consuls,  and  wished  me  to  repeat  mi 
promise  to  Sidi  Hamet,  which  I did.  He  had  a lamp  fo 
a light,  so  that  he  could  see  every  motion  that  1 made  wel 
enough  to  comprehend  me  entirely.  By  this  time  somt 
cakes  had  been  baked,  which  were  presented  to  our  mas 
ters,  and  of  which  they  gave  us  some  : these  cakes  wen 
made  of  barley  meal,  ground  coarse  ; yet  it  was  bread 
and  it  being  the  first  we  had  seen,  we  ate  a little  of  it 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


161 


i hough  our  stomachs  were  not  yet  prepared  to  enjoy  the 
, reat.  After  they  had  eaten  and  washed  their  hands  and 
bet,  and  talked  over  their  affairs,  Sidi  Hamet  anain  called 
le  to  him,  and  told  me  he  should  set  out  in  the  morning 
)r  Swearah,  in  company  with  our  host,  Sidi  Mohammed, 
■here  he  hoped,  with  God’s  blessing,  to  arrive  in  three 
ays,  for  he  should  travel  on  a mule,  ( bugelah ,)  and  push 
b night  and  day  : that  I must  write  a letter  to  my  friend, 
hich  he  would  carry  ; and,  said  he,  “ if  your  friend  will 
ilfil  your  engagements,  and  pay  the  money  for  you  and 
our  men,  you  shall  be  free — if  not,  you  must  die  for 
iving  deceived  me,  and  your  men  shall  be  sold  for  what 
ey  will  bring.  I have  fought  for  you,  (added  he,)  have 
tffered  hunger,  thirst,  and  fatigue,  to  restore  you  to  your 
imily,  for  I believe  God  is  with  you.  I have  paid  away 
my  money  on  your  word  alone.  Seid  and  Bo-Moham- 
ed  will  stay  and  guard  you  during  my  absence  : they 
ill  give  you  as  much  khobs  (bread)  and  /hash  (pudding) 
you  can  eat ; so  go  and  sleep  till  morning.”  This 
ght  was  spent  on  my  part  in  a state  of  anxiety  not  easy 
conceive  : — to  whom  should  I write  ? I knew  nobody 
Mogadore,  and  yet  I must  take  my  chance.  I remem  - 
red  my  remarkable  dream — it  had  literally  come  to  pass 
us  far — why  should  I doubt  its  whole  accomplishment ; 
1 1 could  not  rest. 

; 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

me  author  -writes  a letter — Sidi  Hamet  sets  out  with  it 
'll  for  Swearah — The  arrival  of  Sheick  AH,  an  extraor- 
dinary character. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  were  called  up,  and  di- 
nted to  go  within  the  gates.  My  master  said  to  me, 
f Ilome,  Riley,  write  a letter,”  giving  me  at  the  same 
t re  a scrap  of  paper,  not  so  wide  as  my  hand,  and  about 
e ;ht  inches  long  ; he  had  also  got  a little  black  staining 
iiuid  and  a reed  to  write  with.  I now  begged  hard  to 
t taken  along  with  him,  but  he  would  not  consent, 

21 


162 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


though  I told  him  I would  leave  my  son,  whom  I love 
more  than  myself,  behind  me  as  an  hostage,  and  thrc 
men  ; but  all  Would  not  do,  the  thing  was  determined  oi 
He  then  told  me,  that  what  I had  agreed  to  give  him  w; 
not  sufficient;  that  I must  tell  my  friend,  in  the  letter, 
pay  two  hundred  dollars  for  myself,  two  hundred  f< 
Horace,  two  hundred  for  Aaron,  one  hundred  and  sixl 
for  Clark,  and  the  same  for  Burns,  adding,  that  I hs  I 
promised  him  a good  double  barrelled  gun,  and  1 ml! 
give  him  that,  and  one  to  Seid  also.  “ Seid  is  a bad  ma  j 
(said  he,)  but  helped  to  save  your  life,  and  must  have1 
gun.”  So  I took  the  reed,  and  wrote  on  the  slip  of  pape 
as  near  as  I can  recollect,  the  following  letter. 

u SIR, 

“The  brig  Commerce,  from  Gibraltar  for  Americ|| 
was  wrecked  on  Cape  Bajador,  on  the  28th  August  las 
myself  and  four  of  my  crew  are  here  nearly  naked, 
barbarian  slavery  ; I conjure  you  by  all  the  ties  that  bit 
man  to  man,  by  those  of  kindred  blood,  and  every  thii 
you  hold  most  dear,  and  by  as  much  as  liberty  is  dear 
than  life,  to  advance  the  money  required  for  our  redem! 
tion,  which  is  nine  hundred  and  twenty  dollars,  and  ti 
double  barrelled  guns.  I can  draw  for . any  amount,  t 
moment  I am  at  liberty,  on  Batard,  Sampson  & Shar 
London — Cropper  & Benson,  Liverpool — Munro  & Bv 
ton,  Lisbon,  or  on  Horatio  Sprague,  Gibraltar.  Shou 
you  not  relieve  me,  my  life  must  instantly  pay  the  forfe; 
I leave  a wife  and  five  helpless  children  to  deplore  n 
death.  My  companions  are  Aaron  R.  Savage,  Hora 
Savage,  James  Clark,  and  Thomas  Burns.  I left  s 
more  in  slavery  on  the  desert.  My  present  master,  S:| 
Hamet,  will  hand  you  this,  and  tell  you  where  we  are 
he  is  a worthy  man.  Worn  down  to  the  bones  by  t; 
most  dreadful  of  all  sufferings' — naked  and  a slave,  I i> 
plore  your  pity,  and  trust  that  such  distress  will  not  : 
suffered  to  plead  in  vain.  For  God’s  sake,  send  an  inti' 
preter  and  a guard  for  us,  if  that  is  possible.  I spe: 
French  and  Spanish. 

James  Riley,  late  Master  and 
Supercargo  of  the  brig  Commerce 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


163 


While  I was  writing  the  above,  they  procured  an  ad- 
ditional scrap  of  paper,  being  a part  of  a Spanish  bill  of 

Iading,  on  which  I wrote  a part  of  my  letter,  that  could 
iot  be  written  legibly  on  the  first  scrap.  Having  folded 
hem  up,  I directed  them  to  the  “ English,  French,  Spam 
Ish,  or  American  consuls,  or  any  Christian  merchants  in 
. dogadore  or  Swearah.”  I purposely  omitted  mentioning 
hat  we  were  Americans,  because  I did  not  know  that 
here  was  an  American  agent  there,  and  I had  no  doubt  of 
‘ here  being  an  English  consul  or  agent  in  that  place.  My 
naster  was  hurrying  me  while  I was  writing,  and  both 
ie  and  my  host,  Seid,  and  the  young  man,  and  many 
ithers  who  stood  bv,  were  surprised  to  see  me  make  the 
Arabic  numerals  ; for  the  characters  we  use  in  arithmetic 
re  no  other  than  the  real  ancient  Arabic  figures,  which 
ave  served  them  for  thousands  of  years ; they  remarked 
o each  other  that  I must  have  been  a slave  before  to  some 
Arabian,  who  had  taught  me  the  use  of  them,  contrary 
o their  law,  because  he  had  found  me  to  be  a smart  ac- 
tive fellow.  ■ My  master  taking  my  letter,  then  mounted 
:>ne  mule,  and  Sidi  Mohammed  another,  and  rode  of: 
pgether  very  fast  to  the  east. 

I We  remained  here  seven  days,  during  which  time  they 
:ept  us  shut  up  in  the  yard  in  the  day  time,  where  the 
ows,  sheep,  and  asses  rested,  and  at  night  they  locked 
is  up  in  a dreary  cellar.  Seid  and  Bo- Mohammed  guard- 
d us  all  the  day,  not  because  they  feared  we  would  at- 
tempt to  escape,  but  because  some  of  the  neighbouring 
People  might  steal  and  run  off  with  us,  and  in  the  night 
ime  they  lay  on  their  arms  outside  the  door,  to  prevent 
surprise.  We  had  as  much  barley  bread  twice  a da}' 

Is  we  wanted,  lhash  once  a day,  and  plenty  of  water. 

Phis  food,  though  palatable,  produced  and  kept  up  a 
jontinual  dysentery ; our  bowels  seemed  to  ferment  like 
>eeip  and  we  were  tortured  with  cholics.  Our  numerous 
■ores  had  now  time  to  heal,  and  our  bodies  became  most- 
y skinned  over  before  our  masters  returned  ; but  the 
lemorrhoids  distressed  us  extremely.  All  the  inhabitants 
vho  lived  near,  and  all  those  who  heard  that  Christians 
vere  in  the  place,  (for  they  call  all  Europeans  Christians,) 
:ame  to  see  us.  Some  were  very  familiar,  and  all  wished 


164 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


to  know  if  we  were  mechanics:  from  that  circumstano 
I concluded  that  mechanics  were  very  much  wanted,  am 
of  great  importance  among  these  people,  and  that  ther 
would  be  no  possibility  of  getting  clear  of  them,  if  one 
they  should  find  out  our  usefulness  in  that  way.  I there 
fore  told  them  that  we  were  all  brought  up  sailors  fron 
our  childhood,  and  knew  no  other  business.  One  trie 
to  make  me  lay  out  and  hew  a pair  of  posts  for  a door  ti 
a house  that  was  building  within  the  walls  of  the  village 
and  gave  me  a line  to  measure  the  length  of  them,  am 
tried  to  teach  me  to  span  it  off;  but  I would  not  under; 
stand  him.  They  next  put  a kind  of  adze  into  my  hand 
and  bade  me  fit  the  posts  in.  I took  the  tool,  and  bega; 
to  cut  at  random,  gouging  out  apiece  here,  and  splittin 
it  there,  doing  more  hurt  than  good  ; and,  at  the  sam 
time,  by  my  awkward  and  clumsy  manner,  taking  car 
to  make  them  believe  that  I could  do  no  better.  Som 
were  satisfied  that  I had  done  my  very  best,  but  by  far  th 
greater  part  of  them  were  of  opinion  that  a smart  applica 
tion  of  the  whip  would  put  my  mechanical  powers  int 
complete  operation,  and  I really  expected  they  would  ap 
ply  this  stimulus  ; for  one  of  them  ran  and  fetched  a ston 
stick,  and  was  about  to  lay  it  on,  when  Bo-Mohammed 
who  represented  Sidi  Hamet,  interfered  and  saved  m 
from  a cudgelling.  Mr.  Savage, Clark,  Burns,  and  Horace 
were  each  tried  in  their  turns,  who,  following  my  instruc 
tions,  were  soon  relieved  from  all  further  requisition 
From  this  circumstance  it  is  evident,  that  the  less  usefn 
a Christian  makes  himself  when  a slave  to  the  Arabs,  es 
pecially  in  a mechanical  way,  the  less  value  they  will  se 
upon  him,  and  he  will  not  only  have  a chance  of  gettins 
ransomed,  but  it  may  be  effected  on  easier  terms  that 
otherwise  ; for  I am  fully  convinced,  that  if  we  had  showi 
ourselves  capable  in  those  arts  which  the  Arabs  highfi 
prize,  such  as  carpenters,  smiths,  shoemakers,  8tc.  &c 
we  should  have  been  sold  at  high  prices,  and  soon  carrier 
away  beyond  the  possibility  of  redemption. 

Four  days  after  Sidi  Hamet’s  departure,  some  paper; 
were  shown  to  me  by  one  of  the  men  who  lived  in  th< 
neighbourhood,  which  I found,  on  examination,  to  be, 
first,  the  register  of  the  Spanish  schooner  Maria , issuet 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


165 


|y  the  custom-house  at  Cadiz,  in  May  1814  ; second,  a 
1 ill  of  sale  of  the  same  schooner,  made  out  at  the  island 
F Grand  Canary  in  1812,  of  the  same  date  with  the  regis- 
r.  Many  articles  of  clothing  that  had  belonged  to  her 
*ew  were  also  shown  me  ; and  the  topmast,  jib-boom, 
id  other  small  spars  of  a vessel,  served  to  support  the 
oor  over  our  nightly  prison.  I made  enquiries  as  far  as 
was  possible,  in  order  to  find  out  something  respecting 
. lis  vessel,  which  I presumed  must  have  been  wrecked 
ear  this  place;  and  was  informed  that  the  preceding 
ear  a schooner  anchored  on  this  part  of  the  coast  to 
itch  fish,  and  to  trade ; that  these  people  found  means 
i get  alongside  of  her  in  the  night  in  boats,  and  after 
illing  the  captain  and  three  men,  got  possession  of  her  ; 
'hen  having  taken  out  the  money  and  other  valuables, 
ley  cut  her  cables,  and  ran  her  on  shore  : that  they  then 
lade  the  surviving  part  of  the  crew  assist  in  tearing  the 
/reck  to  pieces,  and  in  carrying  it  up  to  build  houses 
nth.  I asked  how  many  people  were  on  board  her,  and 
/here  the  remainder  of  the  crew  were  ; and  was  informed 
y a serious  looking  old  man,  that  it  consisted  of  seven- 
sen  souls  at  first ; that  four  were  slain  in  the  conflict 
/hen  she  was  captured;  that  five  more  had  died  since, 
ind  that  the  remaining  eight  were  a great  way  off  to  the 
outheast,  where  they  were  employed  in  working  on  the 
md  and  making  houses.  Others  said,  they  had  gone  to 
iwearah,  and  from  thence  to  their  own  country  ; but  I 
ould  easily  perceive  by  their  looks  that  those  poor  fel- 
ows  had  either  been  massacred,  or  were  now  held  in 
slavery,  where  neither  the  voice  of  liberty,  nor  the  hand  of 
riendship,  was  ever  likely  to  reach  them.  The  people 
lere,  both  old  and  young,  could  speak  many  words  of 
Spanish,  though  they  did  not  know  their  meaning,  but 
nade  use  of  them  at  a venture  at  all  times — these  were  a 
set  of  the  very  coarsest  and  most  vulgar  words  the  Span- 
sh  language  affords,  and  had  been  uttered,  no  doubt,  by 
:>oor  unfortunate  slaves,  natives  of  Spain,  when  they  were 
suffering  the  greatest  misery,  and  when  execrating  these 
savages.  One  young  fellow  spoke  several  words  of  Eng- 
ish,  such  as  “ good  morning — good  night,”  &c.  and  was 
Raster  of  a considerable  list  of  curses.  He  one  day 


166 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


came  up  to  Mr.  Savage,  and  said — “ button,  cut  it  .wit 
nif,”  and  at  the  same  time  laid  hold  of  a button  on  h 
pantaloons.  Mr.  Savage  was  very  much  surprised  to  hes 
a language  he  could  understand  ; but  these  Avords  and  th 
oaths  and  curses,  constituted  the  Avhole  of  his  Englis 
education.  Every  person  here  had  either  a long  knife  c 
a scimitar  ahyays  slung  by  his  side.  Among  the  resi 
several  negroes  came  to  look  at  us,  some  of  whom  Aver, 
slaves  and  some  free,  and  they  Avere  all  Mohammedans 
these  were  allowed  to  sit  on  a mat  beside  our  masters,  an 
make  remarks  on  us  as  tve  Avere  placed  among  the  fres 
manure  at  a short  distance.  Seid  desired  to  know  Avh; 
Ave  called  black  men  : I told  him  negroes  ; at  which  narn 
the  negroes  seemed  very  indignant,  and  much  enraged. 

On  the  sixth  day  of  my  master’s  absence,  a man  ai 
rived  and  took  up  his  lodging  with  our  guards  : he  wa 
about  six  feet  in  height,  and  proportionably  stout ; hi 
colour  was  something  betiveen  that  of  a negro  and  a 
Arab  : when  he  came  in  he  Avas  saluted  by  Seid  and  th 
others  in  company  by  the  name  of  Sheick  All,  (or  AS 
the  chief.)  This  man  possessed  talents  of  that  superio 
cast  Avhich  never  fail  to  command  the  greatest  respect,  am 
at  the  same  time  to  inspire  dread,  atve,  and  reverence; 
He  appeared  to  be  only  a guest  or  visitor.  In  his  deport 
ment  he  was  grave  and  dignified  : he  raised  his  voice  01 
occasions  terribly,  and  spoke  in  tones  almost  of  thunder 
yet  when  he  Avished  to  please  by  condescension  and  court 
esy,  it  thrilled  on  the  ear  like  sounds  of  softest  music 
his  manner  and  air  were  very  commanding,  and  his  Avholi 
aspect  and  demeanour  bore  the  stamp  of  the  most  daring 
courage  and  unflinching  firmness.  He  Avas  the  most  elo- 
quent man  I had  ever  heard  speak  ; persuasion  dwelt  upoi 
his  tongue  ; Avhile  he  spoke,  all  the  company  observer 
the  most  profound  silence,  and  Avith  open  mouths  seemec 
to  inhale  his  honied  sentences.  He  pronounced  with  the 
most  perfect  emphasis ; the  elegant  cadence,  so  rnucli 
admired  in  eastern  oratory,  seemed  to  have  acquired  netv 
beauties  from  his  manner  of  delivery  : his  articulation 
Avas  so  clear  and  distinct,  and  his  countenance  and  actions 
so  intelligent  and  expressive,  that  I could  understand  him 
perfectly,  though  he  spoke  in  the  Arabic  language.  He 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA," 


167 


[Lvould  settle  all  controverted  points  among  the  disputants 
jtvhen  applied  to,  in  an  instant,  and  yet  with  the  utmost 
>racefulness  and  dignity.  This  extraordinary  chief  was 
■ often  conversing  in  a low  tone  of  voice  with  Seid  respect- 
ing me  and  my  men  : he  said  he  believed  me  to  be  a very 
irtful  fellow,  and  capable  of  any  action  either  good  or 
Dad  ; and  said  he  did  not  doubt  but  my  friends  would 
raise  any  sum  of  money  that  might  be  demanded  for  my 
ansom.  He  regretted  very  much  that  he  had  not  seen 
3idi  Hamet  before  he  set  out  for  Swearah,  and  concluded 
:o  remain  with  us  until  his  return.  He  questioned  me 
very  particularly  as  to  my  country,  my  friends,  family, 
aroperty,  &c. ; he  also  wished  to  know  all  the  story  of 
'jmy  shipwreck,  and  was  very  curious  to  find  out  what 
. quantity  of  money  and  what  other  property  fell  into  the 
hands  of  those  who  first  met  with  us  after  the  vessel  was 
wrecked,  and  what  crime  was  committed  to  induce  these 
: Moslemin  to  kill  Antonio.  He  next  examined  our  bodies 
til  over,  and  on  one  of  Clark’s  arms  his  attention  was  ar- 
rested by  a cross,  and  several  other  marks  of  Christian 
i insignia  that  had  been  pricked  in  with  Indian  ink,  in  the 
manner  of  the  Spanish  and  other  sailors:  the  stain  re- 
mained entire,  though  the  skin  had  many  times  been 
( changed,  and  now  seemed  drawn  tight  over  the  bone, 
i This  being  a conclusive  proof  in  the  Sheick’s  mind  of 
Christianity,  he  pronounced  him  “a  Spaniard,”  and  said 
he  should  not  be  redeemed,  but  must  go  to  the  mountains 
and  work  with  him.  Every  tiling  that  this  man  said, 
seemed  to  carry  with  it  a weight  that  bore  down  all  oppb- 
■ sition.  >N 

We  had,  during  Sidi  Mamet’s  absence,  (after  the  fifth 
day,)  been  in  constant  expectation  of  receiving  news  from 
him,  or  that  he  himself  would  return,  and  our  keepers 
inquired  of  every  stranger  who  came  from  the  eastward, 
if  they  had  seen  him,  but  obtained  no  news  until  the  se- 
venth day,  when  one  of  the  most  fierce  and  ill-looking 
men  I had  ever  beheld,  approached  the  wall,  and  hailed 
Seid  by  name,  ordering  him  in  an  imperious  tone  to  open 
the  gate  directly.  Seid  demanded  to  know  who  he  was : 
he  replied,  Ullah  Omar ; that  he  came  from  Swearah,  and 
had  met  Sidi  Hamet  near  that  place,  who  requested  him 


163 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


to  call  and  tell  Seid  where  he  was,  and  that  God  ha 
prospered  his  journey  so  far.  The  gate  was  now  opene< 
and  the  stranger  entered  : he  was  of  a dark  complexioi 
nearly  six  feet  in  height,  and  extremely  muscular  ; had  : 
long  musket  in  his  hand,  a pair  of  horse  pistols  hangin 
in  his  belt,  and  a scimitar  and  two  long  knives  slung  b 
his  sides,  with  the  haick  or  blanket  for  a dress,  and  a larg 
white  turban  on  his  head  ; he  had  a pair  of  long  iron  spur: 
which  were  fastened  to  his  slippers  of  yellow  Morocc 
leather ; he  rode  a beautiful  horse,  which  seemed  fleet  am 
vigorous,  and  he  appeared  to  be  about  forty  years  of  age 
This  was  the  first  man  I had  seen  harnessed  in  this  way 
Sheick  Ali  knew  him,  and  shook  him  most  cordially  b 
tL  hand,  and  after  exchanging  salutations  all  round,  heat 
ing  I was  the  captain,  he  addressed  me  and  told  me  h 
had  seen  my  friend,  Sidi  Hamet ; that  he  met  him  withii 
one  day’s  ride  of  Swearah ; that  he  would  no  doubt  h 
here  on  the  morrow,  for  that  God  had  prospered  his  jour 
ney  on  account  of  me ; and  added,  that  he  hoped  mi 
friend  in  Swearah  or  Mogdola  would  be  as  true  to  me  a: 
Sidi  Hamet  was : he  then  spoke  to  all  my  men,  who 
though  they  did  not  understand  him,  yet  were  rejoiced  tc 
hear  through  me,  that  there  was  a prospect  of  my  master’s  | 
returning  soon.  This  man  had  two  powder  horns  slung 
from  his  neck,  and  a pouch  in  which  he  carried  a wooden 
pipe  and  some  tobacco,  besides  a plentiful  supply  of  leaden 
balls  and  slugs.  My  shipmates  wanted  some  tobaccoi 
very  much,  and  I asked  him  for  a little,  upon  which  he 
gave  me  a handful  of  very  good  tobacco,  and  seemed  ex- 
ceedingly pleased  to  have  it  in  his  power  to  administer 
comfort  to  such  miserable  beings.  I imagined  from  his 
whole  deportment  that  he  resembled  one  of  those  high-  i 
spirited,  heroic,  and  generous  robbers,  that  are  so  admira- 
bly described  in  ancient  history.  Seid  furnished  him  with 
some  food,  which  I now  learned  they  called  cous-koo-soo, 
with  some  slices  of  pumpion  or  squash  spread  over  it  in 
the  bowl,  and  well  peppered.  This  dish,  which  is  made 
of  small  balls  of  flour,  boiled  with  a fowl  and  vegetables, 
looked  (for  I had  not  the  pleasure  of  tasting  it)  like  a 
very  nice  dish.  After  they  had  washed,  drank  water,  eaten, 
washed  again,  and  prayed  together,  Ullah  Omay  took  his 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


169 


♦ leave.  During  the  whole  of  the  time  we  remained  here, 
our  keepers  washed  themselves  all  over  with  water  twice  a 
day,  before  mid-day  and  evening  prayers,  and  always 
washed  their  hands  before  and  after  eating. 

The  state  of  my  mind,  in  the  mean  time,  can  be  more 
: [ easily  conceived  than  described  : during  this  day  and  the 
next,  which  was  the  eighth,  I longed  to  know  my  fate  ; 
ll|and  yet  I must  own,  I trembled  at  the  thoughts  of  what 
it  might  be,  and  at  the  conditions  I had  myself  proposed 
Hat  my  last  purchase,  and  had  so  often  since  confirmed.  If 
jmy  master  should  find  no  one  who  should  be  willing  to 
pay  the  money  for  my  redemption,  my  fate  was  sealed.  I 
lliad  already  agreed  to  have  my  throat  cut ! this  could  not 
be  prevented ; yet  when  I made  this  agreement  I was 
! jaaked  and  on  a vast  and  dreary  desert,  literally  without  a 
skin  ; my  remaining  flesh  was  roasted  on  my  body  ; not  a 
drop  of  fresh  water  to  quench  my  burning  thirst,  nor  even 
in  herb  nor  any  other  thing  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  hun- 
ger : my  life  was  fast  wasting  away,  and  there  was  not 
' i iven  a hope  remaining,  or  a possibility  of  existing  long  in 
my  then  forlorn  condition  : both  myself  and  my  compani- 
ons would  have  sold  our  lives  for  a drink  of  fresh  water 
nr  a morsel  of  bread.  In  that  most  dismal  and  desperate 

I situation,  I imagined  that  if  I could  once  get  to  the  culti- 
vated country  beyond  the  desert.  I should  find  some  food 
:o  support  nature,  and  fresh  water  to  allay  our  thirst.  My 
•emarkable  dream  had  also  given  me  courage  to  hope  for 
•edemption  ; but  if  I was  not  redeemed  myself,  I felt  it 
my  duty  to  exert  myself  to  the  utmost  to  preserve  the 
ives  of  my  shipmates  ; they  might  some  of  them,  I fan- 
ned, possibly  survive,  even  though  I should  not,  and  be 
it  length  restored  to  their  country  and  friends,  in  conse- 
quence of  my  exertions,  and  convey  to  my  distressed  fam- 
; ily  the  sad  tidings  of  my  wretched  fate.  Circumstances 
were  now  changed ; I had  passed  the  dangers  of  the  desert, 
uid  arrived  in  the  cultivated  country  ; we  had  now  plenty 
if  good  water,  and  some  food  and  shelter ; and  though 
my  flesh  was  nearly  all  wasted  away,  yet  a new  skin  had 
succeeded  and  nearly  covered  my  bones.  My  desire  to 
ive  kept  pace  with  the  increase  of  my  comforts  ; I longed 
hr  the  return  of  my  master,  and  yet  I anticipated  it  with 


170 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


the  most  fearful  and  dreadful  apprehensions.  I could  no 
sleep  ; alternate  hope  and  fear  kept  me  in  a state  of  con 
tinual  agitation.  I calculated  on  the  moment  of  his  arriva 
as  decisive  of  my  fate  ; it  would  either  restore  me  to  liber 
ty,  or  doom  me  to  instant  death  : I trembled  at  even 
noise  occasioned  by  the  opening  of  the  gate  on  any  nev 
arrival. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

A Moor  arrives  from  Mogadore , bringing  a letter — Tin 
letter— -They  set  out  for  that  city. 

The  eighth  day  of  my  master’s  absence  passed  tediouslj 
away  ; when,  after  dark,  we  heard  a trampling  outside 
the  walls.  Seid  went  forth  to  learn  its  cause,  and  soot  t 
returned  with  Sidi  Mohammed,  followed  by  a well  looking 
Moor.  They  came  directly  to  that  part  of  the  yard  where 
we  were  sitting  on- the  ground,  trembling  with  apprehen- 
sion and  with  cold.  When  they  came  near  me,  the  Moon 
called  out  and  said  in  English,  “ How  de-do,  Capetan.’1 
This  raised  me  and  all  my  men  from  the  ground  ; I felt  as; 
if  my  heart  was  forcing  its  way  up  into  my  throat,  and  it 
entirely  obstructed  my  breath.  I eagerly  seized  his  hand, 
and  begged  to  .know  who  he  was,  and  what  was  my  doom, 
and  if  Sidi  Hamet  had  come  back  : he  then  asked  me  in 
Spanish  if  I spoke  that  language,  and  being  answered  in 
the  affirmative,  he  informed  me  in  Spanish  that  he  came 
if  cm  Mogadore  ; that  my  letter  had  been  received  by  one 
of  the  best  of  men,  an  Englishman,  who  was  his  friend, 
and  who  had  shed  tears  on  reading  my  letter ; that  he  had 
paid  the  money  to  my  master  immediately,  and  had  sent 
him  (the  Moor)  off,  without  giving  him  scarcely  a mo- 
ment’s time  to  take  leave  of  his  wife,  and  that  he  had  been 
on  his  mule  ever  since  he  left  Swearah,  travelling  on  as 
fast  as  possible,  night  and  day.  The  anxiety  of  my  com- 
panions by  this  time  had  risen  to  such  a pitch  that  they 
broke  in  upon  his  story,  on  which  I communicated  to 
them,  the  thrice  welcome  and  happy  intelligence,  that  we 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


171 


Iiacl  a friend  who  would  redeem  us  from  slavery.  Our 

I souls  were  overwhelmed  with  joy,  and  yet  we  trembled 
with  apprehension  lest  it  might  not  be  true  : alas ! perhaps 
it  was  only  a delusive  dream,  or  some  cruel  trick  to  turn 
our  miseries  into  mockery.  At  this  moment,  however, 
the  Moor  handed  me  a letter  : I broke  it  open  ; but  my 
emotions  were  such,  that  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  read 
its  contents,  and  I handed  it  to  Mr.  Savage  ; for  my  frame 
trembled  to  such  a degree,  that  I could  not  stand,  and  I 
isank  to  the  earth,  but,  thank  God,  not  senseless ; while 
by  means  of  the  light  of  a fire,  he  read  as  follows : — - 

Mogadore , October  25,  1815. 

i MY  DEAR  AND  AFFLICTED  SIR, 

I have  this  moment  received  your  two  notes  by  Side 
Hamet,  the  contents  of  which,  I hope  you  will  be  per- 
fectly assured,  have  called  forth  my  most  sincere  pity  for 
your  sufferings,  and  those  of  your  companions  in  captivity 
By  a Gibraltar  paper  I discover,  under  the  arrivals  from 
the  5th  to  the  11th  August,  the  name  of  your  vessel,  and 
that  she  was  American,  from  which  I conclude  both  you 
and  your  crew  must  be  subjects  of  the  United  States : 
had  it  not  been  for  the  paper  adverted  to,  some  delay 
would  have  occurred,  as  you  do  not  state  in  your  notes 
to  what  nation  you  belong. 

I congratulate  you  most  sincerely  on  the  good  fortune 
you  and  your  fellow  sufferers  have  met,  by  being  in  the 
hands  of  a man  who  seems  to  be  guided  by  some  degree 
of  commiseration. 

I can  in  some  measure  participate  in  the  severe  and  dan- 
gerous sufferings  and  hardships  you  must  have  undergone ; 
but,  my  dear  Sir,  console  yourself,  for,  thanks  be  to  God, 
I hope  they  will  soon  have  a happy  issue ; for  which  pur- 
pose I devoutly  pray  the  great  Disposer  of  all  things  will 
give  you  and  your  unfortunate  companions  health  and 
strength  once  more  to  visit  your  native  land. 

This  letter  will  be  delivered  you  by  Rais  bel  Cossim , in 
whom  you  may  place  the  fullest  faith  : he  speaks  Spanish, 
and  has  directions  to  pay  attention  to  your  orders,  and 
render  you  every  care  your  severe  misfortunes  may  re- 
h quire.  Be  pleased  to  write  me  an  immediate  answer, 


172 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


stating  every  particular  relating  to  yourself,  your  crew, 
and  vessel,  as  I have  given  orders  to  the  Moor  to  forward 
it  to  me  without  delay. 

I have  agreed  to  pay  the  sum  of  nine  hundred  and 
twenty  hard  dollars  to  Sidi  Hamet,  on  your  safe  arrival  in 
this  town  with  your  fellow  sufferers  : he  remains  here  as  a 
hind  of  hostage  for  your  safe  appearance. 

I have  been  induced  to  trust  implicitly  to  your  word, 
and  the  respectable  references  you  have  given,  in  confi- 
dence that  those  gentlemen,  or  yourself,  will  readily  reim- 
burse me  the  whole  of  the  expenses  that  may  be  incurred 
in  obtaining  your  redemption. 

I have  the  most  sincere  pleasure  to  acquaint  you,  you 
will  be  at  liberty  to  commence  your  journey  for  this  town 
on  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  and  make  what  stages  you 
please  on  the  road,  as  I do  not  advise  you,  in  the  eager- 
ness all  of  you  must  feel,  to  run  into  danger  by  over- 
exertion  and  fatigue  : I would,  therefore,  recommend  the 
greatest  precaution  on  this  point.  I have  sent  under  charge 
of  Rais  bel  Cossim,  shoes  and  cloaks,  which  I have  no 
doubt  you  will  find  very  useful  in  preserving  you  from 
vain  or  cold  on  the  road.  I have  also  forwarded  you  some 
provisions  and  spirits,  that  you  may  enjoy  a foretaste  of 
returning  liberty. 

I beg  to  recommend  the  greatest  secrecy  of  your  cir- 
cumstances until  your  arrival  here,  for  should  the  Moors 
suppose  you  able  to  pay  more,  they  would  throw  difficul- 
ties in  the  way,  and  thereby  much  retard  your  redemption. 

• I shall  send  off  an  express  to-morrow  to  the  United 
States’  Consul  General  at  Tangier,  and  a letter  to  Mr. 
Horatio  Sprague  of  Gibraltar,  informing  them  of  your 
loss,  and  of  the  favourable  hopes  I entertain  of  your  im- 
mediate release. 

I have  appointed  with  Rais  bel  Cossim , on  your  arrival 
at  a short  distance  from  Mogadore,  to  wait  at  the  garden 
of  a friend  of  mine,  and  send  me  notice  of  the  same,  when 
I shall  immediately  set  out  to  meet  you, 

I trust  there  is  no  occasion  for  me  to  say  how  truly  I 
commiserate  and  enter  into  all  your  misfortunes : when 
God  grants  me  the  pleasure  to  embrace  you,  it  will  be  to 
me  a day  of  true  rejoicing.  I beg  you  will  assure  every 


"SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


173 


me  with  you  of  my  truest  regard  ; and  with  sentiments 
i mbittered  by  the  thoughts  of  the  miseries  you  have  un- 
lergone,  but  with  the  most  sanguine  hope  of  a happy 
c nd  to  all  your  sufferings,  I subscribe  myself,  with  the 
3 ’reate  st  esteem,  my  dear  Sir,  vour  friend, 
is  | , Will  I AM  Wi  LLSHIRE. 

P.  S.  I willingly  agree  to  advance  the  money,  consider- 
A ig  a month  or  more  must  elapse  before  I could  receive 
1 n answer  from  Mr.  Sprague.  I therefore  concluded  you 
■n-i  /ould  prefer  being  at  liberty  in  this  town,  to  experiencing 
1 prolongation  of  your  sufferings  during  that  period.  I 
hall  be  happy  in  rendering  you  every  comfort  that  my 
Mijhouse  and  this  country  can  afford.  W.  W. 


My  feelings,  during  the  reading  of  this  letter,  may 
erhaps  be  conceived,  but  I cannot  attempt  to  describe 
hem  ; to  form  an  idea  of  my  emotions  at  that  time,  it  is 
ecessary  for  the  reader  to  transport  himself  in  imagina- 
ton  to  the  country  where  I then  was,  a wretched  slave, 
nd  to  fancy  himself  as  having  passed  through  all  the 
angers  and  distresses  that  I had  experienced  : reduced 
d the  lowest  pitch  of  human  wretchedness,  degradation, 
of  nd  despair,  a skinless  skeleton,  expecting  death  at  every 
istant  : then  let  him  fancy  himself  receiving  such  a letter 
'om  a perfect  stranger,  whose  name  he  had  never  before 
eard,  and  from  a place  where  there  was  not  an  individual 
reature  that  had  ever  before  heard  of  his  existence,  and 
i one  of  the  most  barbarous  regions  of  the  habitable 
lobe  : let  him  receive  at  the  same  time  clothes  to  cover 
fr]  nd.  defend  his  naked,  emaciated  and  trembling  frame, 
01  hoes  for  his  mangled  feet,  and  such  provisions  as  he  had 
ijieen  accustomed  to  in  his  happier  days — let  him  find  a 
oothing  and  sympathising  friend  in  a barbarian,  and  one 
rho  spoke  perfectly  well  the  language  of  a Christian  na- 
ion ; and  with  all  this,  let  him  behold  a prospect  of  a 
peedy  liberation  and  restoration  to  his  beloved  family  : — - 
iere  let  him  pause,  and  his  heart  must,  like  mine,  expand 
tear  to  bursting  with  gratitude  to  his  all-wise  and  benefi- 
ent  Creator,  who  had  upheld  his  tottering  frame  and  pre- 
erved  in  his  bosom  the  vital  spark,  while  he  conducted 


•im,  with 


unerring 


wisdom  and  goodness,  through  the 


174 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


greatest  perils  and  sufferings,  by  a continued  miracle,  an 
now  prepared  the  heart  of  a stranger  to  accomplish  wh< 
Lad  been  before  determined. 

The  letter  being  finished,  we  could  only  raise  our  eye 
and  hearts  to  heaven  in  adoration  and  silent  thankfulness 
while  tears  of  joy  trickled  down  our  haggard  cheeks.- 
Amidst  these  joyful  and  heart-thrilling  sensations,  my  al 
tention  was  aroused  by  the  thundering  voice  of  Sheick  Al 
who  stormed  away  most  furiously  on  being  informed  the! 
Sidi  Hamet  had  given  up  me  and  my  companions  fcl 
such  a paltry  sum  : — he  said,  Sidi  Hamet  must  be  a foe 
and  a madman  to  put  himself  in  the  power  of  a villainou 
Christian,  who  would  undoubtedly  murder  him  and  takj 
back  his  money  so  soon  as  we  should  arrive  in  Swearal 
The  Moor,  who  had  hitherto  remained  silent,  now  spok 
out  in  a very  spirited  manner,  and  told  the  Sheick  in 
very  firm,  but  eloquent  and  persuasive  tone,  that  he  ha 
I ought  me  and  my  companions  with  his  own  money,  whic 
he  had  paid  to  Sidi  Hamet  before  he  left  Swearah  ; an  I 
that  he  (Sidi  Hamet)  remained  there  voluntarily  as 
hostage  for  his  {Rais  bel  Cassini's)  safety,  as  well  as  sc 
eurity  for  the  delivery  of  the  slaves. 

“ We  are  of  the  same  religion,  (added  Rais,)  and  ow 
these  Christian  dogs  nothing;  we  have  an  undoubte! 
right  to  make  merchandise  of  them,  and  oblige  them  t’ 
carry  our  burdens  like  camels.  That  fellow  (said  hi 
pointing  to  me)  calls  himself  the  captain  of  a vessel, — h 
has  deceived  his  master  and  you  ; for  he  was  nothing  mot  i 
than  cook  on  board,  and  the  captain  has  long  been  dead. 
This  the  Sheick  would  not  believe  ; if  it  was  so,  ho1 
couid  I write  a note  to  induce  a stranger  to  pay  so  nine 
money  for  me  and  my  men  ? “It  was  only  a short  on< 
(added  he,)  and  its  writer  must  be  a man  of  much  const 
quence,  as  well  as  knowledge.  I fear  you  (though 
Moslemin)  have  leagued  with  a Christian  against  Sit 
Hamet,  first  to  rob  him  of  his  slaves,  and  then  to  take  h 
life.”  “No,  by  Allah  ! I am  incapable  of  such  an  act  t 
treachery,”  retorted  Rais,  and  told  the  Sheick  I was  ir, 
deed  the  cook,  but  being  a stout  fellow,  had  been  able  t 
endure  fatigues  better  than  the  others  : “ but  (added  he 
give  them  paper,  pen,  and  ink,  and  they  will  soon  cor 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


175 


nice  you  they  can  all  write,  and  much  better  than  Riley.” 
This  controversy  continued  a long  time,  and  I found  that 
iais  bel  Cossim  was  a man  of  great  courage,  as  well  as 
knowledge  and  eloquence  ; and  he  certainly  displayed  great 
cldress  and  management  in  checking  the  avaricious  calcu- 
, itions  of  the  Sheick,  by  insisting  on  my  not  being  a cap- 
lin,  and  thus  depreciating  my  value  as  a slave.  Seid 
eemed  to  have  sunken  into  a kind  of  sullen  silence  : it 
vas  now  late,  and  Sidi  Mohammed  conducted  the  whole 
i ompany  into  an  apartment  that  had  served,  from  appear - 
nces,  as  a stable  for  mules.  They  had  loudly  insisted 
hat  we  should  lodge  in  the  same  place  where  we  had  been 
iefore  confined,  but  Rais  would  not  consent,  and  declared 
r;  hat  his  slaves  should  stay  by  his  side,  both  night  and  day. 
They  had  cost  him  a great  deal  of  money,  (he  said,)  and 
e was  determined  not  to  lose  them.  Having  thus  got 
ito  comfortable  quarters,  our  cloaks  were  produced  from 
i basket,  and  we  put  them  on.  Our  friend  had  sent  us 
ome  hard  biscuits  and  boiled  neats’  tongues — he  had  also 
3r warded  tea,  coffee,  and  sugar,  and  a few  bottles  of  rum, 
vith  a tea-kettle,  tea-pot,  cups  and  saucers,  all  nicely 
lacked  up  in  a small  box.  Rais  then  procured  a lighted 
imp,  and  I gave  each  of  my  men  a slice  of  tongue,  some 
•iscuit,  and  a drink  of  rum  : this  revived  their  spirits  ex- 
eedingly,  and  we  all  felt  as  if  new  life  was  infused  into 
l>ur  hearts,  which  at  the  same  time  swelled  with  gratitude 
o God  for  his  infinite  mercy  and  goodness.  We  were 
iext  regaled  with  a very  fine  watermelon  ; and  having  put 
»n  our  new  shoes  to  make  our  feet  warm,  and  wrapped 
lurselves  up  in  large  cloaks  or  gzlabbias , we  stretched 
•urselves  on  the  ground  to  sleep,  whilst  Rais,  Seid,  and 
‘is  companion,  Bo-Mohammed,  and  Sheick  Ali,  laid 
hemselves  down  on  a platform  made  of  boards  that  must 
lave  been  brought  from  the  wreck  of  some  vessel,  and 
vas  raised  two  feet  from  the  ground.  The  food  which  I 
nd  my  companions  had  eaten,  together  with  the  melon 
'id  liquor,  caused  us  such  violent  griping  pains  in  our 
tomachs  and  intestines,  that  we  could  with  great  diffi  - 
ulty  forbear  screaming  out  with  agony,  and  we  found 
, relief  till  morning,  after  having  passed  a sleepless 


176 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


Early  in  the  morning,  Rais  desired  me,  in  Arabic, 
make  some  tea  : so  I took  out  the  kettle,  had  it  filled  wi 
water,  made  a fire  with  a few  sticks,  and  soon  had  the  t 
ready  for  drinking.  The  men  and  boys  in  and  near  th 
village,  hearing  of  Sidi  Mohammed’s  return  to  his  famil 
came  now  to  congratulate  him,  and  to  see  the  Moor,  wl 
directed  me  to  pour  out  a cup  of  tea  for  each  of  the  me: 
which  he  made  thick  with  sugar.  None  of  the  people  he 
ever  before  seen  such  a thing  as  a tea-cup,  nor  knew  wh 
the  taste  of  tea  was,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  sever 
of  them  could  be  persuaded  to  drink  it,  and  they  appeare 
to  be  reconciled  to  it  only  on  account  of  the  sugar, 
waited  on  them  all  until  they  had  finished  ; when  Rai 
turning  to  Sheick  Ali,  said,  “ I told  you  before  that  RikJ 
was  the  cook,  and  now  you  see  with  your  own  eyes  th 
he  is  tine  only  one  that  can  wait  upon  us.”  I next  made 
strong  cup  of  tea  for  ourselves,  which  had  a most  remarlj 
able  effect  in  composing  and  restoring  the  tone  of  01 
stomachs. 

All  our  things  being  soon  packed  up  and  loaded  c 
mules,  we  set  forward  at  about  eight  o’clock.  The  Moi 
had  tried  to  procure  mules  for  us  to  ride  on ; but  the 
could  not  be  had  in  this  part  of  the  country  at  any  pric 
Our  company  consisted  of  Sheick  Ali , Sidi  Mohammed 
(who  had  been  to  Swearah  on  our  account,)  Seicl,  oi 
master,  Bo-Mohammed , (who  had  assisted  in  guardin 
us,)  and  Rais  bel  Cossim , all  well  armed.  Though  1 
could  procure  no  beasts  exclusively  for  our  use,  yet  Rai 
managed  in  such  a manner  as  to  let  us  ride  by  turns,  an 
Burns  all  the  time,  for  he  was  so  feeble  as  not  to  be  abi 
to  walk.  So  soon  as  we  were  on  the  road,  Rais  bel  Cot 
sim  begged  me  to  give  him  an  account  of  my  misfortune 
and  sufferings,  and  by  what  miracle  my  life  and  the  live 
of  those  who  were  with  me  had  been  preserved.  I sati: 
lied  his  curiosity  as  well  as  I could,  by  a short  narration 
the  most  prominent  occurrences.  When  I had  finishec 
he  raised  his  eyes  towards  heaven  with  an  air  and  exprej 
sion  of  true  devotion,  and  exclaimed,  in  Spanish,  “ Praise 
be  God,  the  most  high  and  holy  ! for  his  goodness  the 
addressing  himself  to  me,  he  remarked,  “ You  have  ir 
deed  been  preserved  most  wonderfully  by  the  peculis 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA? 


177 


fotectiou  and  assistance  of  an  overruling  Providence, 
nd  must  be  a particular  favourite  of  heaven  : there  never 
was  an  instance  (added  he)  of  a Christian’s  passing  the 
feat  desert  for  such  a distance  before,  and  you  are  no- 
nubt  destined  to  do  some  great  good  in  the  world  ; and 
ay  the  Almighty  continue  to  preserve  you,  and  restore 
>u  to  your  distressed  family.  Sidi  Hamet  (added  he) 
mired  your  conduct,  courage,  and  intelligence,  and  says 
ey  are  more  than  human — that  God  is  with  you  in  all 
iur  transactions,  and  has  blessed  him  for  your  sake.”  I 
jsntion  this  conversation  to  show  the  light  in  which  my 
ister  had  viewed  me  ; and  this  will  account  for  the  in- 
•est  he  took  in  my  restoration  to  liberty,  over  and  above 
> motives  of  gain. 

I now  inquired  who  Sheick  Ali  was,  and  why  lie  was 
ing  on  in  company  ; and  said,  I much  feared  him.  Rais 
ormed  me  that  all  he  knew  about  him  he  had  learned 
m Sidi  Mohammed,  which  was,  that  he  is  the  chief  of 
jery  large  and  powerful  tribe  of  Arabs,  who  inhabit  the 
Is  south  of  us,  and  near  the  borders  of  the  great  desert ; 
t Sidi  Hamet  had  married  one  of  his  daughters,  but 
1 since  been  at  war  with  him,  and  that  in  the  contest 
! father-in-law  had  destroyed  Sidi  Hamet’s  town,  and 
en  back  his  daughter,  but  afterwards  restored  her  again 
making  peace  ; that  this  Sheick  could  bring  ten  or  fif- 
n thousand  men  into  the  field  whenever  he  pleased,  and 
t he  was  a man  of  the  greatest  talents  and  capacity  in 
1 jr,  as  well  as  in  peace  ; but  why  he  was  going  on  in  our 
npany  in  this  manner,  he  could  not  tell,  and  agreed 
vh  me  in  suspecting  that  it  could  be  for  no  good  pur- 
se ; yet  he  observed,  “ God  could  turn  his  evil  intern 
is  to  our  good,  and  that  that  power  which  had  protect- 
cme  thus  far,  would  not  forsake  me  until  his  will  was 
Komplished.” 


178 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


CHAPTER  XXL 

They  come  near  the  mins  of  a city , xvhere  two  batterir, 
machines  are  standing — Description  of  them — Story 
its  destruction — They  cross  a river  and  a fruitful  vc 
ley — Lodge  in  a city , and  are  afterwards  stopped  i 
Sheick  Ali  and  the  prince  of  another  city. 

We  travelled  on  in  a southeast  direction  through 
very  sandy  country,  with  however  here  and  there  a sm 
rising,  and  a few  cultivated  spots,  for  about  five  hours, 
the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  when  we  came  oppos 
the  shattered  walls  of  a desolate  town  or  city  that  sto 
not  far  from  our  path  on  the  right.  These  walls  appear! 
to  inclose  a square  spot  of  about  three  hundred  yards  j 
extent  on  each  side,  and  they  seemed  to  be  at  least  fifte 
feet  in  height.  They  were  built  of  rough  stones,  laid 
clay  or  mud,  and  partly  daubed  over  with  the  same  n 
terial.  On  tire  north  side  there  was  a gateway  handson 
ly  arched  over  with  stone,  and  furnished  with  a strc 
heavy-looking  wooden  gate  that  was  now  shut.  Over  i 
gate  there  appeared  to  be  a platform  for  the  purpose 
defending  the  gate,  for  the  wall  was  not  quite  so  high 
that  part  as  elsewhere.  Two  battering  machines  w 
standing  against  the  western  angle  of  the  wall,  oppo: 
to  which  a large  practicable  breach  had  been  made 
means  of  one  of  those  machines.  They  were  both  v 
simple  in  their  structure,  but  calculated  to  be  very  pc 
erful  in  their  effects.  I could  distinctly  see  and  exam 
with  my  eyes  the  one  nearest  to  us.  It  was  formed,  a 
appeared  to  me,  in  the  first  place,  by  laying  down  tj 
large  logs  of  wood  at  right  angles  with  the  wall,  and  ab : 
fifteen  feet  apart,  the  ends  of  the  logs  butting  against , 
wall.  (See  plate,  figure  4.)  Into  the  upper  side  of  e; 
of  these  logs  a nitch  or  mortise  was  cut,  to  receive  ( 
thick  ends  of  two  uprights,  consisting  of  two  roil 
trunks  of  trees,  of  about  twelve  inches  in  diameter  attli 
base,  of  equal  lengths,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  abi 
twenty-five  or  thirty  feet.  Each  upright  had  a crotcli 
its  upper  end,  formed  by  the  natural  branching  of  the  1< 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


179 


principal  limbs  of  the  tree,  like  a common  country  well- 
»ost  in  America.  These  crotches  being  rounded  out  by 
rt,  a stout  piece  of  knotty  timber,  of  about  from  twelve 

!o  eighteen  inches  in  thickness,  was  placed  horizontally  in 
hem.  To  the  tentre  of  the  cross-piece  a pole  of  ten  or 
welve  inches  in  circumference  was  lashed  with  a strong 
ope,  and  to  the  lower  end  of  this  pole  a huge  rough  rock 
ras  fastened,  weighing  from  appearances  several  tons. 
The  rock  was  slung  and  fastened  to  the  pole  by  means  of 
hick  ropes,  formed  by  braiding  many  thongs  of  camels’ 
i kins  together.  After  the  machine  had  been  fitted  to- 
gether on  the  ground,  it  had  been  raised  all  in  a body  by 
he  help  of  long  shores  or  sticks  of  timber,  not  so  thick 
s the  uprights,  but  nearly  twice  as  long ; these  shores 
/ere  tied  fast  to  the  uprights,  near  their  crotches,  by  ropes, 
nd  served  to  raise  and  lower  the  machine  at  pleasure,  and 
Iso  acted  as  braces  to  support  it  when  in  action.  Two 
hort  props  or  braces  were  fixed  between  the  uprights  and 
te  wall,  with  one  end  resting  against  its  base,  and  the 
ther  in  a notch  cut  on  the  inner  side  of  the  uprights,  to 
elp  to  keep  them  steady,  and  prevent  them  from  falling 
gainst  the  walls.  The  rock  hung  within  two  or  three 
eet  of  the  ground,  like  a huge  pendulum  ; and  having  a 
>ng  rope  fastened  to  its  slings,  stretching  oflT  from  the 
rail  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  manner  of 
pplying  it,  was  by  the  assailants  laying  hold  of  this  rope 
t great  numbers,  and  then  hauling  off  the  rock  to  its 
reatest  extent ; all  let  go  at  the  same  instant,  and  the 
lack  swung  back  with  such  impetuosity  against  those  ili- 
onstructed  walls,  that  its  repeated  strokes  soon  opened  a 
reach,  through  which  the  besiegers  entered,  sword  in 
‘ and.  The  other  machine  was  made  of  four  rough  sticks 
f timber,  of  nearly  equal  lengths,  lashed  together  at  their 
mallest  ends,  and  raised  in  form  of  a common  triangle, 
r rather  a quadrangle  ; from  the  point  of  juncture,  a large 
ock  was  suspended  by  a rope  of  camel’s  skin,  braided  to 
te  thickness  of  a man’s  leg,  and  slung  in  such  a manner 
3 to  be  struck  against  the  wall  in  the  same  way  as  the  one 
rst  described.  My  companion,  Rais  bel  Cossim,  gave 
ie  all  the  information  I desired  relative  to  these  machines, 
"he  ground  about  the  breach  and  near  the  gate  was 


180 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


strewed  over  with  dry  human  bones ; and  my  curiosit 
being  much  excited  to  know  the  history  of  this  melar 
choly  scene  of  carnage  and  desolation,  I requested  Rai 
to  communicate  to  me  the  particulars  ; but  not  being, 
seems,  acquainted  with  them  himself,  he  applied  to  Sic 
Mohammed  on  the  subject,  who  thereupon  gave  the  fol 
lowing  relation,  while  Rais  translated  into  Spanish  for  m 
such  parts  as  I did  not  perfectly  understand  in  Arabic' 
by  which  means  I was  enabled  thoroughly  to  comprehen 
the  whole  narrative. 

“ That  city  (said  Sidi  Mohammed,  pointing  towards : 
with  his  staff)  was  built  bv  Omar  Raschid,  about  fort 
years  ago ; he  named  it  JFidnah.  He  was  a very  brav 
and  pious  man  ; and  the  number  of  his  family  and  friend: 
consisting  at  first  of  no  more  than  five  hundred  soul: 
when  the  city  was  built,  increased  so  rapidly,  that  in 
few  years  they  amounted  to  several  thousands : the 
planted  those  fig,  date,  pomegranate,  olive,  and  othc 
trees  which  you  now  see  near  the  walls ; they  cultivate 
the  fields  round  about,  and  made  gardens  ; had  abundanc 
of  bread,  beasts,  and  cattle  of  every  kind,  and  becam 
exceedingly  rich  and  great,  for  God  was  with  them  in  a 
their  transactions.  They  were  respected,  loved,  and  feai 
ed  by  all  their  neighbours,  because  they  were  wise  an 
just.  This  man  was  called  Omar  el  Milliah,  (or  Orm 
the  good  ;)  he  was  my  best  friend  when  living,  (said  Sidi. 
and  helped  me  when  I was  very  low  in  the  world ; but  th 
best  men  have  enemies — so  it  was  with  Omar  ; he  had  a 
inveterate  enemy  from  his  youth,  who  lived  among  th 
mountains  to  the  southward  of  his  city,  whose  name  wa; 
Sheick  Sulmin.  This  Sheick,  about  twenty  years  age 
came  down  with  a great  host  and  invested  the  city  c 
Omar  ; but  Omar,  taking  advantage  of  the  darkness  c 
the  night,  sallied  out  of  his  city  at  a private  passage,  wit 
all  his  forces,  and  falling  upon  his  besiegers  unaware: 
killed  a great  number,  and  put  the  remainder  to  a shame 
ful  flight : from  that  time  until  the  time  of  his  deatl 
(which  happened  two  years  ago,)  he  enjoyed  a profoun 
peace  on  every  side.  After  Omar’s  death,  his  eldest  sor 
Muley  Ismael , (for  he  caused  himself  to  be  called 
prince,)  took  upon  him  the  government  of  the  city.  H 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


181 


vas  a very  effeminate  man,  entirely  devoted  to  sensual 
j Measure,  and  had  a great  number  of  wives  and  concu- 
g pines.  The  people  had  long  enjoyed  a profound  peace, 
ind  confided  in  their  strength  ; when,  about  a year  ago, 
me  of  the  brothers  of  Ismael,  named  Kesh-bcih , who  was 
/ery  ambitious,  and  being  fired  with  resentment  at  the 
;onduct  of  Muley  Ismael,  in  taking  away  from  him  his 
aetrothed  wife,  left  the  city  and  repaired  to  the  mountains, 
tvhere  having  found  his  father’s  old  enemy  still  living,  he 
stirred  him  up  to  war  against  the  city.  The  old  Sheick 
soon  collected  a powerful  army  of  hungry  and  rapacious 
Arabs  on  the  borders  of  the  desert,  and  came  down  the 
mountains,  bringing  on  their  camels  the  battering  ma- 
chines you  now  see  standing  there.  When  this  host  ap- 
proached the  city,  it  was  in  the  dead  of  the  night,  and  all ' 
i within  were  asleep,  for  they  dwelt  carelessly  and  dreamed 
of  no  danger,  and  felt  so  secure,  that  they  did  not  even 
keep  a watch.  The  Shieck  and  his  host  drew  near  the 
Avails  in  perfect  silence,  and  raised  their  battering  machines 
(undiscovered  : it  was  now  nearly  daylight,  when  both 
machines  were  put  in  operation  at  the  same  instant,  and 
»the  gate  was  also  attacked  by  means  of  large  stones  hung 
(from  the  upper  extremities  of  long  poles  by  ropes,  which 
poles  stood  up  on  end,  and  were  managed  by  the  hands  of 
the  Arabs.  The  first  strokes  against  the  walls  and  gate, 
shook  them  to  their  very  foundations,  and  awakened  the 
slothful  inhabitants,  who  flew  to  the  walls  in  order  to 
make  a,  defence  ; but  it  was  too  late  ; the  enemy  were 
thundering  against  them  ; all  was  confusion  within  ; 
those  who  attacked  the  gate  were  repulsed  with  great 
l>  slaughter  by  those  who  mounted  the  platform  over  it,  but 
the  walls  were  already  shattered  to  pieces,  and  the  assail- 
ants entered  the  breaches  over  heaps  of  their  dead  and 
dying  enemies. 

“It  was  now  daylight,  and  an  indiscriminate  slaughter  of 
the  inhabitants  ensued  ; all  was  blood  and  carnage  ; every 
male  was  put  to  death,  except  two,  who  escaped  over  the 
■ wall  to  carry  tidings  of  the  fate  of  the  town  to  their 
friends  and  neighbours.  All  the  women  and  children 
shared  the  same  fate,  except  two  hundred  virgins,  who 
were  spared  for  the  use  of  the  conquerors.  They  next 


182 


tiAPT AIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


plundered  the  slain  of  their  clothing  and  ornaments  ; gath- 
ered up  all  the  spoil,  and  drove  off  the  oxen,  sheep, 
camels,  and  asses,  and  departed,  leaving  the  city  before 
mid-day  a heap  of  ruins,  covered  with  the  mangled  car- 
casses of  its  once  highly  favoured  inhabitants  : they  were  i 
in  such  haste  as  to  leave  the  battering  machines  standing, 
and  made  off  by  way  of  the  plain  southward.  The  in- 
habitants of  the  neighbouring  towns  soon  collected,  and 
pursuing  them  with  great  vigour,  came  up  with  them  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain  the  next  morning,  while  the 
invaders  sending  forward  their  spoil,  took  a station  in  a 
steep  narrow  pass,  and  prepared  for  battle.  It  was  a very 
long  and  bloody  fight,  but  Sulmin’s  men  rolled  down  i 
great  stones  from  the  precipices  upon  their  pursuers,  who  i 
were  at  last  forced  to  retreat,  leaving  about  half  their 
number  dead  and  wounded  on  the  ground.” 

Sidi  Mohammed  was  one  of  the  pursuers,  and  now1 
showed  me  a very  large  scar  from  a wound  he  then  re- 1 
oeived  on  his  breast  by  a musket  ball.  Sidi  Ishem,  a very 
powerful  prince,  had  in  the  mean  time  heard  the  news, ' 
and  assembled  a very  large  army,  and  pursued  the  ene- 
my by  another  way ; but  they  had  fled  to  the  desert  and 
could  not  be  overtaken.  The  dead  bodies  in  and  about  i 
the  city  had  become  so  putrid  before  the  pursuit  was 
over,  that  none  could  approach  to  bury  them,  and  they 
were  devoured  by  dogs,  and  wild  beasts,  and  birds  of 
prey.  “ They  had  offended  the  Almighty  by  their  pride, 
(observed  Sidi  Mohammed,)  and  none  could  be  found  to 
save  them.  Thus  perished  Widnah  and  its  haughty  in- 
habitants.” 

I was  at  that  time  riding  along  on  a mule  next  to  Rais 
bel  Cossim  and  Sidi  Mohammed,  whilst  the  latter  re- 
counted the  transaction  in  a most  solemn  tone.  My  sen- 
sations at  beholding  the  desolate  ruins  of  a once  populous 
town,  whose  inhabitants  had  all  been  cut.  off  in  a few 
hours  by  the  unexpected  irruption  of  a ferocious  and  un- 
sparing foe,  may  easily  be  conceived.  I was  at  first 
induced  to  consider  the  story  as  fictitious,  but  my  eyes 
warranted  the  belief  of  it,  and  the  sight  of  the  battering 
machines,  together  writh  the  breaches  in  the  wall,  and  the 
dry  human  bones  scattered  around,  afforded  conclusive 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


183 


.evidence  even  to  the  minds  of  my  fellow  prisoners,  who 
did  not  understand  the  narrative,  that  here  had  once  stood 
i a town,  which  had  been  sacked  and  destroyed. 

After  leaving  these  ruins,  we  continued  on  about  an 
sast  course  for  three  hours,  when  we  came  to  the  bank  of 
a stream,  or  fresh  water  river,  which  was  now  no  larger 
than  a brook,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  season.  It 
flowed  from  the  southeast,  and  bent  its  course  through  a 
broad  valley  in  a crooked  channel,  nearly  north,  towards 
the  sea-shore.  On  its  left  bank,  which  was  very  high 
land,  stood  two  considerable  walled  villages,  and  a great 
number  of  small  square- walled  enclosures  on  the  same 
bank  southward,  some  in  ruins  and  some  apparently  in 
good  repair.  The  walls  were  made  of  rough  stones  laid 
in  clay,  and  the  houses  had  flat  roofs.  On  the  margin  of 
the  brook  were  a great  number  of  gardens  fenced  in  with 
dry  thorn  bushes,  placed  on  the  ground,  and  planted 
chiefly  with  the  prickly-pear ; but  some  with  squashes, 
cabbages,  &c.  At  a distance  on  both  sides  of  this  stream, 
we  saw  a number  of  square  stone  sanctuaries,  or  saint 
houses,  with  round  domes  : they  did  not  appear  to  be 
more  than  ten  or  fifteen  feet  square,  and  were  all  nicely 
whitewashed.  This  bank  of  the  river  bore  strong  marks 
r of  having  been  washed  to  a very  great  height  from  the 
I place  where  the  stream  then  flowed  ; and  on  inquiring  of 
Sidi  Mohammed,  I was  informed  that  the  whole  of  the 
valley  between  the  two  high  banks  (which  from  appear- 
ances must  be  five  or  six  miles  wide)  was  entirely  covered 
with  water  during  some  part  of  the  season,  or  when  great 
rains  fall 

the  banks  three  days’  journey  to  a 
cross  it 

the  last  five  years  the  land  had  been  so  cursed  with  droughts 
that  it  had  not  once  overflowed  its  present  bed  where  we 
crossed  it,  and  where  it  was  not  more  than  twenty  yards 
wide  and  one  foot  in  depth. 

As  we  passed  along  close  to  the  prickly-pears,  which 
hung  over  the  thorn  bushes,  bearing  yellow  fruit,  some 
of  my  men  plucked  them  and  put  them  in  their  mouths, 
without  regarding  the  sharp  prickles  with  which  these 
pears  were  covered,  so  that  their  tongues  and  the  roofr  of 


at  which  times  travellers  were  obliged  to  go  up 


fall  before  they  could 


that  he  himself  had  once  been  that  way,  but  for 


184 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


their  mouths  were  literally  filled  with  them  : on  the  firs 
touch,  they  were  extremely  painful,  and  were  extractec 
afterwards  with  much  difficulty.  There  were  also  01 
both  sides  of  this  river  near  where  we  crossed  it,  nume 
rous  herds,  and  many  inhabitants.  We  travelled  alons; 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  until  it  be- 
came both  wide  and  deep,  for  it  met  the  tide  water  from 
the  sea  ; when  coming  within  sight  of  a city  on  the  high 
right  bank,  we  made  towards  it.  On  our  approaching 
within  two  miles  of  its  walls,  we  passed  large  fields  of 
Indian  corn  and  barley,  and  gardens  filled  with  most  kinds 
of  common  vegetables.  The  borders  of  these  fields  and 
gardens  were  planted  with  date,  fig,  pomegranate,  orange,  i 
and  other  fruit  trees  in  great  numbers,  and  many  clumps 
of  grape  vines  : the  soil  of  this  spot  appeared  to  be  of  the 
richest  black  mould.  As  we  passed  along  in  a high  foot- 
way,  formed  by  throwing  up  the  turf  from  the  enclosures, 
(apparently  to  make  them  perfectly  level,  or  all  of  a gentle 
descent,)  we  saw  hundreds  of  the  inhabitants  busily  em- 
ployed in  gathering  the  Indian  corn  and  barley  into  heaps, ! 
for  it  was  now  their  harvest  time,  while  others  (men  and 
boys)  were  loading  it  in  sacks  and  baskets  on  camels, 
mules  and  asses,  and  driving  them,  thus  loaded  with  the 
rich  products  of  the  soil,  into  their  city.  These  several 
enclosures  contained,  I should  judge,  one  hundred  acres 
of  land,  divided  from  each  other  by  mud  walls,  strewed 
with  dry  thorn  bushes  ; the  whole  were  watered  by  means  1 
of  a considerable  stream,  brought  from  the  heights  near 
the  city  in  a large  ditch,  and  carried  round  each  enclosure 
in  small  gutters  dug  for  the  purpose ; so  that  any  one  of 
the  owners  could  either  water  the  whole  or  any  part  of  his 
field  or  garden,  at  pleasure.  Hundreds  of  oxen  and  cows, 
sheep  and  goats,  were  feeding  in  the  newly  cleared  fields, 
whose  thin  and  famished  appearance  proved  they  had  been 
forced  to  feed  on  scanty  and  dried  up  herbage  during  the 
summer  months,  and  that  on  account  of  the  long  and  ex- 
cessive droughts,  they  had  merely  been  able  to  exist.  Rais 
also  informed  me,  that  the  locusts  had  nipped  off  and 
destroyed  nearly  every  verdant  thing  in  the  whole  country ; 
and  that  for  the  last  five  years  they  had  laid  waste  whole 
provinces  in  the  empire  of  Morocco. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


185 


We  now  arrived  at  the  city,  and  entered  it  at  a very 
large  gateway,  with  our  camels  and  mules,  and  took  up 
3ur  quarters  in  a smith’s  shop,  near  the  gate.  It  was  after 
sunset  when  we  entered  this  town,  and  I could  observe 
me  broad  street  that  appeared  to  run  its  whole  length. 
The  houses  were  built  of  rough  stones,  principally  laid  in 
day,  but  some  in  lime — all  of  one  story  high,  and  flat 
•oofed  : there  were  no  windows  next  the  street,  except  a 

Iimall  aperture  in  each  one  not  a foot  square,  for  the  pur- 
jose  probably  of  admitting  light.  They  had  each  a stout 
flank  door  strongly  made,  and  furnished  with  a big  clumsy 
ron  lock.  The  corn  continued  to  pass  into  the  city  till 
lark ; all  the  camels,  oxen,  cows,  sheep,  goats  and  asses, 
lelonging  to  the  inhabitants,  and  which  were  very  nume- 
ous,  were  also  driven  into  the  city,  and  the  gate  shut 
ind  barred  with  four  large  pieces  of  timber  : this  was  about 
■ight  o’clock,  and  a watch  was  then  stationed  on  the  wall. 
3n  entering  the  city,  Rais  bei  Cossim  and  Sheick  Ali 
vaited  on  the  governor  or  chief,  and  obtained  permission 
o remain  in  his  town  over  night ; and  a few  dates  were 
irought  by  Rais  for  our  suppers.  The  shop  in  which  we 
vere  permitted  to  stay  was  about  twenty  feet  square ; a 
dnd  of  forge  was  fixed  in  one  corner  ; two  skins  were  cu- 
iously  applied,  so  as  to  form  a bellows  to  blow  this  fire 
vith,  which  was  of  charcoal ; a man  stood  between  them 
vith  a hand  on  each  skin,  which  he  raised  and  depressed 
/alternately,  and  thus  kept  up  a small  and  irregular  stream 
>f  air.  They  had  a large  piece  of  iron  for  an  anvil,  which 
' ay  so  low  on  the  ground,  that  when  they  worked  on  it 
vith  the  hammer,  which  was  a very  clumsy  sort  of  one, 
hey  were  obliged  to  squat  down.  I believe  every  man 
ind  boy  in  this  town  came  to  look  at  us  by  turns,  and  ask 
questions  concerning  ourselves,  our  country,  &c.  so  that 
ve  were  surrounded  with  people  during  the  whole  night, 
flatting  with  each  other,  and  asking  our  Arab  guides  an 
■ndless  string  of  questions. 

These  people  were  of  the  same  nation  we  had  been  in 
he  habit  of  seeing  since  we  came  to  the  river  Nun,  yet 
hey  appeared  to  be  more  civilized.  Several  of  them  ask- 
’d me  in  Spanish  how  I did,  and  uttered  many  other 
■vords  in  that  language,  the  meaning  of  which  they  did 

24 


186 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


not  seem  to  understand,  the  most  of  them  being’  vile  oath: 
and  execrations;  which  proved  satisfactorily  to  me  tha 
they  had  frequent  communications  in  some  way  or  othei 
with  people  of  that  nation.  Sheick  Ali  had  all  the  da) 
after  we  left  Sidi  Mohammed’s  house  been  lost  in  a seem 
ing  reverie  : he  would  seldom  speak,  and  when  he  did,  i 
was  in  a low  voice  apart  with  Seid,  and  I strongly  sus 
pected  that  some  plot  was  in  preparation  between  them 
We  had  travelled  the  last  day  about  five  hours,  at  the  rah 
of  four  miles  an  hour,  before  we  came  abreast  of  the  ruin! 
of  the  city,  I have  described,  and  we  had  proceeded  five 
hours  afterward  at  the  same  rate,  making  together  fort) 
miles. 

On  the  30th  of  October,  we  made  ready  to  start  before 
daylight,  and  as  soon  as  it  dawned  the  gate  was  opened  i 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  The  walls  of  this  city 
or  town,  were  built  of  rough  stone  laid  in  clay,  and  were 
four  feet  thick  at  their  base  in  the  gateway,  and  about 
twenty  feet  high,  but  had  no  outer  ditch  to  defend  them, 
nor  any  cannon  mounted.  It  appeared  to  cover  a space! 
of  about  three  hundred  yards  in  length  along  the  river’s 
bank,  north  and  south,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
in  breadth  from  east  to  west.  The  channel  of  the  rivet 
at  low  stages  of  the  water  is  about  one  mile  west  of  the 
town  : this  river  is  called  by  the  natives  Woed  Sehlem , 01 
river  Sehlem , and  the  town,  Rais  told  me,  bore  the  name, 
i.  e.  Sehlemah:  it  is,  I should  judge  from  its  appearance, 
fifty  yards  in  width  opposite  the  town  at  high  water,  and 
proportionably  deep.  I was  now  informed  by  Rais  bel 
Cossim  and  Sidi  Mohammed,  that  there  was  once  a large 
and  -flourishing  Christian  town  and  settlement  near  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  and  only  thirty  miles  from  us  ; that 
the  town  was  taken  by  storm  about  eight  centuries  ago, 
and  all  the  Christians  massacred.  An  Arabian  century 
contains  forty  lunar  years,  and  is  called  Zille , and  they 
reckon  twelve  moons  to  the  year.  Both  Rais  bel  Cossim 
and  Sidi  Mohammed  said  they  had  been  to  the  spot,  and 
seen  some  of  the  remains  of  the  walls,  which  were  still 
standing,  though  nearly  all  buried  up  in  sand  drifted  from 
the  sea-shore.  They  further  stated,  that  there  was  now  a 
village  at  a little  distance  from  the  ancient  ruin,  inhabited 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


187 


by  fishermen ; that  the  old  Christian  town  was  situated  on 
a bay  or  arm  of  the  sea,  and  five  or  six  miles  broad  at  its 
entrance,  and  that  it  is  an  excellent  harbour  both  for  large 
and  small  vessels  ; that  there  was  no  bar  across  its  mouth, 
but  that  the  usual  bar  was  formed  of  sand  a few  miles  be- 
low  the  town  we  had  left.  From  my  own  observations  on 
the  increasing  breadth  of  the  river,  I am  inclined  to  think 
that  this  bay  may  contain  a fine  harbour,  particularly  as 
Rais  and  his  companion  could  have  no  motive  for  deceiving 
me.  Rais  bel  Cossim  had  been  many  times  in  Europe  as 
captain  under  the  Moorish  flag,  in  the  grain  trade,  and 
insisted  that  this  was  a better  harbour  than  Cadiz  : if  so, 
it  is  the  only  one  on  that  coast,  from  Cape  Spartel,  in  lati- 
tude 34.  30.  to  the  latitude  of  19.  north. 

Travelling  on  at  a great  rate,  we  entered  on  a vast  plain, 
over  whose  surface  a few  shrubs,  and  weeds,  and  clumps 
of  trees  were  thinly  scattered  : the  boughs  of  these  trees 
were  bending  under  the  weight  of  a bright  yellow  fruit, 
i and  I learned  from  Rais  that  it  was  the  arga  tree,  from 
the  nut  of  which  is  extracted  the  argan  oil,  very  much 
i esteemed  by  the  natives  ; and  it  was  also  highly  relished 
by  my  companions.  This  nut,  when  ripe,  much  resem- 
■ bles  the  ripe  date  in  appearance  ; so  much  so,  indeed,  that 
f seeing  some  of  them  scattered  on  the  ground,  I took  one 
up  and  bit  it,  when  I found  out  my  mistake,  as  its  bark 
was  extremely  bitter.  The  trees  generally  grew  in  clus- 
ters of  from  three  to  ten  trunks,  that  seemed  to  spring 
from  the  same  seed  ; these  rise  in  a shaft  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet  in  height,  and  then  branch  off  in  all  directions, 
forming  a diameter  of  at  least  one  hundred  feet ; the  trunks 
are  from  one  to  three  feet  in  diameter ; the  branches  are 
covered  with  thorns,  which  fall  and  lie  so  thick  on  the 
ground,  as  to  make  it  almost  impossible  to  approach  them 
near  enough  to  shake  or  knock  off  the  nuts,  and  they  are 
consequently  left  to  ripen  and  drop  off  spontaneously. 

We  were  now  going  on  at  a small  trot,  mostly  ail 
mounted  on  the  camels,  mules,  and  two  asses  that  were 
in  company.  The  Atlas  mountains  were  now  full  in  view, 
stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  from  northeast  to 
southwest,  at  some  distance  on  our  right.  We  had  seen 
these  mountains  for  several  days  past,  in  the  distant  hori- 


188 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


zon,  when  we  were  on  the  high  ridges,  which  we  wen 
obliged  to  pass  ; but  we  now  beheld  them  from  this  wide 
spreading  plain  in  all  their  awful  magnitude  : their  loft} 
summits,  towering  high  above  the  clouds  in  sharp  peaks 
appeared  to  be  covered  with  never-melting  snows.  Thi: 
sight  was  calculated  to  fill  the  mind  of  the  beholder  witl 
wonder  and  astonishment.  The  cold  and  chilling  blast: 
of  wind  which  blew  directly  from  the  Atlas,  almost  con 
gealed  our  impoverished  blood,  and  made  our  feeble 
frames  shake  almost  to  dissolution,  notwithstanding  the 
good  cloaks  and  shoes  with  which  we  were  provided 
Seid  and  the  other  Arabs  were  also  shivering  with  cold 
and  ran  on  foot  to  make  themselves  warm,  for  the  sky  wa: 
overcast  and  obscured  by  thick  and  heavy  clouds,  por 
tending  torrents  of  rain.  I was  now  sure  we  were  verj 
near  the  emperor  of  Morocco’s  dominions,  and  began  tc 
imagine  myself  a free  man — I felt  myself  at  peace  witl 
all  mankind  ; my  mind  expanded  with  gratitude  toward: 
the  great  Author  of  my  being,  and  I viewed  this  stupen 
dous  ridge  of  mountains  as  one  of  the  strongest  proofs  o 
Divine  goodness  to  his  creatures ; for  I considered  that  al 
the  rivers,  and  streams,  and  springs,  that  water  and  refresl 
the  northern  part  of  Africa,  from  the  borders  of  that  im 
mense  and  thirsty  desert  over  which  I had  travelled,  tc 
the  streights  of  Gibraltar,  and  which  empty  into  the  At 
lantic  ocean,  or  into  the  Mediterranean  sea,  westward  o 
Tripoli,  and  from  the  26th  to  the  35th  degree  of  nortl' 
latitude,  must  either  take  their  rise  or  have  their  source? 
in  this  vast  chain  of  Atlas.  On  these  burning  coasts,  sel- 
dom refreshed  by  rains,  (and  that  only  in  small  quantities 
and  during  the  winter  season,)  the  great  bodies  of  accu- 
mulated snow  on  these  mountains,  tend  in  the  summei 
season  to  cool  the  atmosphere  in  their  vicinity,  as  well  as 
to  supply  water  for  the  use  of  the  animal  and  vegetable 
creation. 

In  the  course  of  this  morning,  Thomas  Burns  became 
so  wreak  (being  benumbed  with  cold)  that  he  could  no 
longer  hold  on  the  camel,  and  tumbled  oft'  over  the  beast’s 
tail  with  great  violence,  falling  on  his  head  and  back, 
which  deprived  him  for  a considerable  time  of  all  sensa- 
tion : — with  much  exertion,  however,  on  our  part,  he  at 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRIGA. 


189 


iength  revived,  and  was  again  placed  on  his  camel.  Pro- 
ceeding on  the  plain,  we  saw  a large  number  of  cities,  or 
trailed  towns,  I should  reckon  at  least  fifty,  some  on  one 
side  of  our  path,  and  some  on  the  other  ; but  mostly  on 
cur  right,  and  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  to- 
wards the  mountains.  Those  near  the  path  appeared  to  be 
:hree  or  four  hundred  yards  square  : the  walls  were  built 
cf  rough  stones  laid  in  clay,  and  with  only  one  gate  ; they 
were  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  crowned  with 
short  turrets  about  three  yards  apart  all  around  : at  each 
corner  on  the  top  was  built  a kind  of  circular  sentry  box, 
fiso  of  stone,  something  in  the  manner  of  old  European 
castles.  Most  of  the  land,  at  some  distance  from  the  vi- 
cinity of  these  towns,  was  prepared  for  sowing,  and  many 

I of  the  inhabitants  were  engaged  in  ploughing.  A little 
nearer,  were  numerous  orchards  of  fig,  date,  and  other 
fruit  trees ; and  close  to  the  walls,  many  gardens  of  fine 
iriregetables,  such  as  onions,  cabbages,  turnips,  squashes, 
See.  Round  about  these  gardens,  we  saw  many  dung- 
: hill  fowls,  and  at  a distance,  herds  of  neat  cattle,  asses, 
and  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  were  feeding  upon  the 
scanty  and  dried  up  herbage,  under  the  eye  of  their  re- 
n spective  keepers  or  herdsmen.  These  beasts  were  very 
poor,  yet  the  whole  seemed  to  promise  abundance  of 
food  to  the  apparently  industrious  inhabitants,  and  brought 
to  my  mind  the  ancient  Jewish  history. 

Sheick  Ali  had  been  very  attentive  to  me  all  this  morn- 
ing : he  had  in  imitation  of  Rais  bel  Cossim,  called  me 
captain,  and  endeavoured  to  convince  me  that  I had  bet- 
ter go  with  him  to  the  mountains  southward,  where  he  had 
large  possessions,  and  would  give  me  one  of  his  daugh- 
ters for  a wife,  and  make  me  a chief  in  his  nation.  He 
had  stopped  the  whole  company  two  or  three  times  to  talk 
over  his  own  affairs,  and  I now  supposed  that  Seid  was 
leagued  with  him,  and  bent  on  doing  me  and  my  men 
some  mischief.  We  had  travelled  on  thus  for  ten  hours, 
(say  from  four  in  the  morning  till  two  in  the  afternoon,)  at 
the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  making  a distance  of  fifty 
miles,  when  turning  aside  from  our  path,  as  if  by  choice, 
we  approached  the  gate  of  a city.  We  were  both  hun- 
gry and  thirsty,  and  we  seated  ourselves  down  by  a very 


190- 


captain  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


deep  well,  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  city  gate 
Seid  and  Sheick  Ali  went  immediately  into  the  town,  as  ' 
supposed,  to  get  some  provisions — Sidi  Mohammed  an 
Rais  bel  Cossim  were  soon  invited  in  also,  to  partake  wit 
them,  leaving  us  on  the  outside,  and  under  charge  cj 
Bo-Mohammed,  who  stood  in  Sidi  Harnct’s  stead,  an 
two  others.  A great  many  men,  and  1 believe  all  the  boy 
belonging  to  the  place,  now  came  out  to  look  at  and  mak 
remarks  on  the  slaves  ; most  of  them,  no  doubt,  fror 
mere  curiosity.  The  boys,  by  way  of  amusement,  begai 
to  throw  stones  and  dirt  at,  and  to  spit  on  us,  expressing! 
by  that  means,  their  utter  contempt  and  abhorrence  of  u ; 
and  of  our  nation.  Burns  and  Clark  were  so  far  exhaust 
ed  as  to  be  unable  to  support  themselves  sitting,  and  wer 
obliged  to  lie  down  on  the  ground  ; but  one  man  brougli 
a bucket  from  the  town,  and  drew  water,  that  we  migh 
allay  our  thirst ; this  revived  us  in  some  measure.  Mrl 
Savage,  Horace,  and  myself,  were  in  so  weak  a state,  thal 
I much  feared  we  should  not  be  able  to  keep  on  for  tin 
remainder  of  this  day.  Burns’  fall  had  proved  him  to  b 
too  weak  to  hold  on  the  camel,  and  had  besides  bruised 
him  very  much.  I tried  my  utmost  to  encourage  then* 
and  keep  up  their  spirits,  by  representing  to  them  that  w< 
were  now  free,  and  would  soon  be  in  the  emperor’s  do 
minions,  where  I presumed  we  should  be  out  of  the  read 
of  the  rapacious  Arabs  ; for  I had  been  informed  by  Rail 
bel  Cossim,  that  in  the  space  of  one  day’s  journey  w< 
should  be  within  the  territories  of  the  emperor. 

Whilst  Rais  bel  Cossim  and  the  rest  of  his  companj 
remained  within  the  walls,  the  winds  from  the  mountains 
driving  before  them  thick  masses  of  dark  clouds,  loaded 
with  vapour,  brought  on  a copious  discharge  of  rain,  and 
we  were  directed  to  enter  under  the  gateway  for  shelter, 
which- we  did,  supporting  each  other  in  our  weakness,  and 
seated  ourselves  in  the  gate.  This  was  the  first  rain  I had 
witnessed  in  this  country  ; and  it  continued  to  fall  for 
about  an  hour.  I had  for  a long  time  looked  for  Rais  bel 
Cossim  and  his  companions  to  come  out,  and  began  to 
apprehend  some  disaster  or  treachery  on  the  part  of  Sheick 
Ali,  whose  harsh  and  loud  voice  I now  heard  roaring  with- 
in. This  tremendous  clamour  between  the  Sheick  and 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


191 


ither  persons,  continued  for  about  two  hours,  when  Rais 
oel  Cossim  made  his  appearance,  escorted  by  a number  of 
nen  : his  intelligent  countenance  bespoke  fear,  grief,  and 
indignation — he  called  me  aside  from  my  companions,  and 
old  me  that  Sheick  All  was  the  intimate  friend  of  Mulct/ 

' bra  him , (or  prince  Abraham,)  the  king  or  governor  of 
he  city  ; that  Sheick  All  had  claimed  us  as  his  property, 
lleging  that  Sidi  Hamet  was  his  son-in-law,  and  owed  him 
great  deal  of  money,  and  that  he  (Sidi  Hamet)  was  now 
eld  as  a hostage  or  slave  to  a Christian  in  Swearah ; that 
e had  insisted  we  should  not  proceed  one  step  further  un- 
til fifteen  hundred  dollars  were  produced,  together  with 
Jiidi  Hamet,  the  husband  of  his  daughter;  and  that  in 
onjunction  with  Seid,  he  had  contrived  to  stop  us  here 
jJ  y the  power  of  the  prince.  This  news  was  to  me  like  a 
lap  of  thunder ; it  bereft  me  of  all  my  fortitude  : the  fair 
V rospects  I had  entertained  of  a speedy  liberation  from 
lavery,  particularly  for  the  last  two  days,  were  now  sud- 

I enly  darkened.  Rais  hel  Cossim  further  informed  me 
iat  he  had  argued  the  matter  every  way,  but  all  to  no 
urpose — that  he  had  promised  the  money  required,  narne- 
/,  six  hundred  dollars,  as  soon  as  we  should  get  to  Santa, 
Iruz,  in  the  emperor’s  dominions,  and  that  he  would 
gree  to  have  the  prince  and  Sheick  go  along  w ith  him  and 

Ixeive  it  there,  and  there  wait  for  the . return  of  Sidi 
lamet ; “ but  they  will  not  listen  to  me,  (added  he,)  and 
must  set  off  immediately  and  carry  this  discouraging 
l ews  to  Mr.  Willshire,  leaving  you  here  until  I return, 
/hich  will  be  in  six  days  ; and  may  God  preserve  you  in 
ie  mean  time  from  their  evil  machinations.”  This  was 
aore  than  I could  bear : — tears  of  anguish,  which  1 had 
ot  the  power  to  control,  now  gushed  from  my  eyes,  and 
ay  almost  bursting  heart  vented  itself  in  bitter  groans  of 
espair.  My  companions  heard  my  distress,  though  at  a 
onsiderable  distance  from  me,  and  turning  l'eariully  on 
ae  their  almost  extinguished  eyes,  begged  for  an  explana- 
ion  of  the  cause. 

Rais  bel  Cossim  was  just  in  the  act  of  mounting  his 
aule  to  ride  off,  when  Sidi  Mohammed,  who  went  in  the 
rst  place  with  my  master  to  Swearah,  came  near  him  and 
aid,  “ Rais, — Mu. ley  Ibrahim  and  Sheick  Ah  have  de- 


192 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE* 


termined  you  shall  not  go  to  Swearah  ; they  fear  you  wil 
cause  a war  to  break  out  between  them  and  the  Sultan.’ 
Observing  me  in  tears  and  in  great  affliction,  he  took  mi ! 
by  the  hand,  and  said,  “ Don’t  be  cast  down,  Riley,  ' 
will  go  to  Swearah,  and  carry  a letter  from  Rais,  and  on 
from  you  to  Wiltshire  ; and  if  he  wants  a hostage,  I wil 
stay  with  him.  1 have  two  wives  and  seven  children  t< 
leave,  and  houses,  and  lands,  and  herds  of  cattle ; anc 
shall  be  a more  valuable  hostage  than  Sidi  Hamet — he  i: 
your  friend,  and  will  come  immediately  down  and  relievi 
you.  God  is  great  and  good,  (added  he,)  and  will  restori 
you  to  your  family.”  I kissed  his  hand  in  gratitude,  an( 
called  him  father,  and  hoped  the  Almighty  would  rewarc 
him  for  his  benevolence.  Rais  now  joined  Sheick  A1 
and  the  prince,  who  with  many  attendants  were  seated  oil 
the  ground  in  a circle,  outside  of  the  city  gate — here  the] 
debated  the  matter  over  again.  Rais  insisted  we  were  hi: 
slaves  ; that  neither  the  prince  nor  Sheick  had  a right  t< 
detain  what  he  had  bought  with  his  own  money,  mucl 
less  to  stop  him  like  a criminal;  that  it  was  contrary  t< 
their  religion  (which  made  them  all  brothers)  to  commii 
such  an  outrage  on  hospitality.  Sheick  Ali,  on  the  othe: 
hand,  contended,  that  Sidi  Hamet  and  Seid  owed  hire  | 
money  to  a large  amount ; that  we  were  their  joint  proper 
ty,  and  that  consequently  he  had  an  undoubted  right  t( 
detain  and  to  carry  us  off  into  his  own  tribe  or  family,  anc 
there  to  keep  us  until  Sidi  Hamet  should  return  and  pay, 
his  debt.  Rais  insisted  he  had  paid  his  money  for  us,  anci 
had  nothing  to  do  with  Sheick  Ali’s  claim ; however,  afteil 
extolling  the  justice  and  virtue  of  the  prince  to  the  highest 
pitch,  they  both  at  last  agreed  to  leave  it  to  Muley  Ibra- 
him to  decide  what  should  be  done.  Muley  Ibrahim  now 
asked  Sidi  Mohammed  and  Bo-Mohammed  what  they 
knew  concerning  this  business,  and  they  gave  testimony 
in  favour  of  Raisbel  Cossim’s  previous  claim  : thus  pre- 
pared,  Muley  Ibrahim  said — “ You,  Sheick  Ali,  my  old 
friend,  and  Rais  bel  Cossim,  both  of  you  claim  these  live 
Christian  slaves  as  your  own  property,  and  each  of  you 
has  some  reason  on  your  side — yet,  as  it  is  not  in  my 
power  to  decide  whose  claim  is  the  best  founded,  I am 
resolved,  with  a strict  regard  to  justice,  and  without  going 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA.- 


193 


ato  further  evidence,  to  keep  the  slaves  in  my  own  city, 
trefully  guarded,  until  messengers  can  be  sent  to  Swea- 
ih,  who  shall  bring  down  Sidi  Hamet,  when  you  three 
liing  confronted,  may  settle  your  claims  as  shall  be  found 
:ost  consistent  with  justice.”  He  then  proposed  that 
ais  should  remain  with  him,  like  a friend,  and  without 
living  any  thing  to  fear.  This  plan  was  agreed  to  by  all 
jirties,  and  they  shook  hands  upon  it  like  friends. 

This  done,  we  were  conducted  into  the  city,  and  into 
:house  adjoining  that  where  the  prince  lived.  A mat 
iis  spread  for  the  Sheick  and  Rais,  and  their  companions 
sit  on,  while  we  were  placed  in  a narrow  corner  on  the 
ound,  among  the  saddles  and  other  stuffs : sentinels 
vth  muskets  and  scimitars  were  stationed  at  the  door  of 
r apartment  and  the  other  doors,  and  at  the  city  gate. 
J was  after  dark  when  the  dispute  was  settled,  and  soon 
erwards  a dish  of  cous-koo-soo  was  brought  in,  of  which 
partook  after  due  ablutions  ; and  they  then  performed 
sir  evening  prayers  most  devoutly.  My  companions 
ire  very  much  cast  down,  and  their  bodies  and  minds 
;re  so  much  exhausted  and  debilitated  by  their  suffer- 
gs,  that  they  had  become  like  children,  and  wept  aloud, 
vas  certain  that  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  Clark 
ad  Burns  to  have  proceeded  further  on  that  day,  and  I 
ted  to  persuade  themr  all  that  it  was  better  for  us  to  be 
ctained  a little,  as  it  would  give  us  an  opportunity  of 
tting  some  rest,  without  which  we  should  be  in  danger 
c fainting  on  our  route.  Muley  Ibrahim,  the  Sheick, 
ad  Rais,  were  conversing  during  the  whole  night,  and 
vien  daylight  appeared,  (the  2d  of  November,)  Rais  fur- 
rshed  me  with  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  and  told  me  to  write 
t Mr.  Willshire,  stating  our  present  situation  as  near  as 
Lvas  able  : this  I accordingly  did,  while  a talb  or  scrive- 
rr  was  employed  in  writing  a letter  for  him,  as  he  could 
it  write  himself.  At  an  early  hour  Seid,  Sidi  Moham- 
ad,. and  Bo-Mohammed  set  out  for  Swearah,  taking  our 
1 ters,  and  promising  to  return  as  soon  as  possible, 
heick  Ali  also,  soon  afterwards  left  us,  promising  to  re- 
trn  in  four  days. 


25 


194 


CAPTAIN  KILEV’S  NARRATIVE. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Rais  bel  Cossim  gains  the  friendship  of  the  prince — Goo 
provisions  are  procured — Sheick  All’s  plans  miscarry— 
They  set  off  for , and  arrive  at  Santa  Cruz , in  the  en 
pire  of  Morocco. 

Being  now  left  alone  with  Rais  bel  Cossim,  I que; 
tioned  him  concerning  our  detention  : he  said  it  would  b 
but  for  a few  days,  and  that  we  needed  a little  tinje  to  re 
fresh  ourselves,  in  order  to  enable  us  to  bear  the  fatigue | 
of  the  remainder  of  our  journey  ; that  he  trusted  w 
should  make  a friend  of  the  prince,  in  whose  power  w 
all  now  were,  and  that  he  hoped  to  be  able  to  effect  thii 
by  making  him  a small  present.  I told  him  I almos 
despaired  of  living  to  regain  my  liberty,  as  I was  extreme! 
ly  feeble,  and  must  soon  perish.  “ What ! (said  he, 
dare  you  distrust  the  power  of  that  God  who  has  preserve 
you  so  long  by  miracles  ? No,  my  friend,  (added  he.  i 
the  God  of  heaveii  and  of  earth  is  your  friend,  and  win 
not  forsake  you,  but  in  his  own  good  time  restore  you  t|| 
your  liberty  and  to  the  embraces  of  your  family  ; we  mm  | 
say,  ‘ his  will  be  done,’  and  be  contented  with  our  lot,  fc 
God  knows  best  what  is  for  our  good.” 

To  hear  such  sentiments  from  the  mouth  of  a Mooi 
whose  nation  I had  been  taught  to  consider  the  worst  c| 
barbarians,  I confess,  filled  my  mind  with  awe  and  rever 
ence,  and  I looked  up  to  him  as  a kind  of  superior  being 
when  he  added,  “ We  are  all  children  of  the  same  heaven 
ly  Father,  who  watches  over  all  our  actions,  whether  w 
be  Moor,  or  Christian,  or  Pagan,  or  of  any  other  religion 
we  must  perform  his  will.”  Rais  then  called  Muley  Ibra 
him,  and  had  a long  conference  with  him.  This  princ 
Ibrahim  was  a man  of  a very  mild  aspect,  of  a light  com 
plexion,  about  five  feet  ten  inches  in  height,  and  rathe 
thin  : his  countenance  was  intelligent,  and  he  was  verj 
active,  though  apparently  sixty  or  seventy  years  of  age 
By  the  tenor  of  the  conversation,  I could  understand  tha 
Rais  was  flattering  him  highly,  but  in  a delicate  way  : h< 
asked  very  affectionately  about  the  prince’s  wives ; and  un 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


195 


erstanding  he  had  but  one,  he  inquired  if  she  had  any 
hildren  ; and  was  answered,  she  had  none : he  next 
ashed  to  know  if  she  had  any  tea  or  sugar,  and  was  an- 
wered  in  the  negative. 

We  had  not  seen  the  faces  of  any  of  the  women  since 
'e  arrived  at  the  town  where  Sidi  Mohammed  dwelt. 
Lais  now  managed  to  get  a little  wood  and  some  water, 
id  we  made  a fire  and  boiled  some  coffee  ; this  was  done 
y the  help  of  a small  negro  girl  who  was  a slave  to  Muley 
arahim,  and  during  the  absence  of  the  prince.  Rais, 
y giving  the  girl  a small  lump  of  loaf  sugar,  persuaded 
er  to  carry  a large  lump  to  her  mistress,  and  also  a cup 
f coffee  thick  with  sugar.  The  prince  had  gone  out 
efore  Rais  attempted  to  bribe  the  girl.  After  carrying 
i the  coffee  and  the  sugar,  the  girl  returned  and  told  Rais 
lat  her  mistress  was  much  obliged  to  him,  and  would 
eep  the  cup  and  saucer,  for  she  had  never  seen  one  be- 
•re,  and  thought  them  very  pretty,  and  begged  to  know 
bw  she  might  serve  him  in  return.  Rais  sent  back  word 
tat  she  could  serve  him  most  essentially  by  striving  to 

Iiakenhe  prince  his  friend.  About  one  hour  after  this, 
fuley  Ibrahim  entered  our  apartment,  and  asked  Rais 
hat  he  had  been  doing  with  his  wife  ? saying,  at  the 

t.me  time,  “ You  had  no  need  of  gaining  my  friendship 
trough  her  influence,  for  you  had  it  already  but  I 
auld  perceive  a very  great  difference  in  his  manner.  He 
' ished  to  know  if  Rais  did  not  want  to  go  to  the  mosque, 
hich  he  said  was  not  far  distant.  Rais  accompanied  him 
hither,  and  I discovered  at  his  return,  about  two  hours 
•'ter,  that  all  was  right  between  him  and  the  prince,  and 
' at  he  had  all  the  liberty  he  required.  I had  in  the  mean 
me  made  some  coffee,  of  which  my  companions  and 
yself  drank  as  much  as  we  wanted,  and  nibbled  our 
scuits ; for  our  Arab  friends  had  before  taken  care  to  eat 
a all  our  boiled  tongue.  We  were  all  of  us  so  exces- 
vely  weak,  that  we  were  not  able  to  fetch  water  for  our- 
elves,  and  our  diarrhoea  also  continued  with  the  most 
' Stressing  hemorrhoids  ; this  day,  however,  had  passed 
way  more  smoothly  than  I had  expected.  In  the  eve- 
; ng  the  prince  came,  and  prayed  in  company  with  Rais, 
ad  appeared  very  friendly.  After  the  prince  retired. 


196 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


Rais  informed  me  that  he  (Rais)  had  sent  off  to  a ric ; 
man,  an  old  acquaintance  of  his,  who  lived  about  oij 
day’s  journey  south  of  us,  for  money  to  pay  Sheick  Ali 
demand,  and  that  he  expected  his  friend  would  come 
him  the  next  day — “ but  (said  Rais)  God  has  made  Mr 
ley  Ibrahim  my  firm  friend  ; and  he  has  given  his  princelj 
word  that  he  will  protect  both  me  and  my  slaves,  and  i 
case  force  is  necessary,  he  will  provide  a sufficient  escoj 
for  us  into  the  emperor’s  dominions  ; he  will  also  provic 
some  fowls  and  eggs  for  you  in  the  morning,  and  ycj 
may  tell  your  shipmates  they  have  nothing  to  fear,  for  t 
morrow  M.  Shaikh,  (i.  e.  if  it  is  God’s  will)  they  six 
have  plenty  of  good  food.”  This  news  cheered  the 
spirits,  and  as  our  apprehensions  had  in  some  measu;! 
subsided,  we  rested  comfortably. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  November  the  3d,  Mull 
Ibrahim  brought  in  some  eggs,  which  we  boiled  for  oi j 
breakfast : he  gave  us  salt  to  season  them  with,  and  soc 
after  brought  half  a dozen  fowls,  and  Rais  taking  tl 
fowls’  wings  in  his  left  hand,  and  turning  his  face  towari 
the  east,  after  saying  aloud,  Besmillah , (in  the  name 'of  tl 
most  holy  God)  he  cut  their  throats,  and  we  soon  dresse* 
them  after  our  fashion,  and  put  them  into  an  earthen  pi 
with  water,  and  set  it  a boiling.  The  prince  had  fu 
wished  us  with  wood,  and  brought  us  vyater  with  his  o\v 
hands  ; he  next  went  into  his  garden,  and  pulled  soir 
onions,  turnips,  and  small  squashes,  with  which  we  ei 
riched  our  soup  ; and  he  also  gave  us  salt  and  green  pej 
pers  to  season  it  with.  We  put  in  four  fowls,  and  th 
soup  would  have  been  thought  good  in  any  country.  . 
more  grateful  and  wholesome  dish  could  not  possib! 
have  been  prepared  for  our  poor  disordered  stomachs,  th; 
had  been  so  long  harassed  with  the  most  cruel  gripin 
pains,  and  felt  as  if  they  had  lost  all  power  of  digestioi 
The  prince  and  Rais  had  a bowl  of  the  soup,  with  a pai 
of  the  fowls,  and  seemed  to  relish  it  exceedingly.  Th 
prince  insisted  on  my  eating  from  the  same  dish  wit 
them  : inquired  concerning  my  wife  and  children,  wishe 
to  know  their  sex  : and  continued  from  that  time  durin 
our  stay  in  his  city  to  administer  all  the  relief  and  comfo; 
in  his  power,  both  to  me  and  my  desponding  and  wretch 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


197 


id  companions,  ivhose  last  ray  of  hope  had  faded  away  on 
ur  being  stopped  here  ; although  in  fact  they  were  not  in 
condition  to  continue  their  journey,  particularly  Burns 
nd  Clark,  for  they  had  sunken  into  a lethargic  state,  bor- 
ering on  dissolution.  Yet,  when  I was  enabled  to  ex- 
Iain  the  causes  of  our  detention,  and  to  inform  them 
lat  the  prince  was  our  friend,  and  gave  them  nourishing 
oups,  their  spirits  came  again,  and  hope  raised  them 
•om  the  ground.  To  the  circumstance  of  this  stoppage 
lone,  and  the  friendship  and  protection  of  this  good 
j hief,  I attribute,  under  providence,  the  salvation  of  our 
< ves.  On  the  second  day  of  our  detention,  in  the  after- 
noon, the  old  man,  Rais  bel  Cossim’s  friend,  to  whom  he 
ad  written  for  assistance,  came  to  see  him  ; he  had  been 
iding  all  night  to  be  with  Rais  in  time.  Their  meeting 
/as  a friendly  one  ; the  old  man  had  two  mules,  on  one 
f which  were  two  baskets,  containing  a dozen  of  fowls, 
i nd  some  dry  cous-koo-soo ; these  he  presented  to  Rais, 
nd  said  he  had  brought  five  hundred  dollars  for  his  use, 
s he  requested,  and  that  he  would  bring  it  in  : but  Rais 
|iad  now  become  the  friend  of  Muley  Ibrahim,  and  there- 
: are  did  not  need  the  money  ; yet  this  old  friend  insisted 
in  his  taking  the  fowls  as  a present,  with  some  eggs  he 
lad  also  brought  with  him  ; these  Rais  accepted,  for  he 
) laid  they  were  meant  as  a present  to  me.  I had  some 
owls  cooked  already,  and  the  old  man  sat  down  and  ate 
vith  Rais,  and  would  have  me  to  be  one  of  the  company  . 
ie  told  Rais  that  if  he  would  but  say  the  word,  he  would 
£0  and  collect  his  friends  and  take  the  slaves  by  force  of 
trrhs,  and  in  spite  of  Sheick  Ali’s  opposition,  would 
tarry  us  safe  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  beyond  his  power  : but 
is  Muley  Ibrahim  had  given  his  word,  on  which  Rais 
said  he  could  depend,  to  see  us  all  safe  to  Santa  Cruz, 
tnd  to  use  all  his  force  and  influence,  if  that  should  be  ne- 
cessary, the  old  man,  whose  name  I am  sorry  to  say  1 
have  forgotten,  left  us  and  returned  to  his  home.  We 
now  lived  for  three  days  as  well  as  we  could  wish. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  Seid’s  departure,  a kind  of  fair 
was  held  at  a short  distance  from  our  city,  and  Rais  told 
me  he  was  going  to  it,  and  would  try  by  some  manoeuvre 
to  liberate  us,  and  to  get  us  on  towards  the  sultan’s  do- 


198 


CAPTATN  UTLEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


minions. — A n^an  of  great  influence  lived  about  fiv 
leagues  distance  from  that  city.  He  was  called  a son  <i 
the  holy  prophet,  or  Shariff;  had  been  to  Morocco,  an 
was  also  called  el  ajjh ; (the  pilgrim:)  he  was  looke 
upon  by  all,  far  and  near,  as  possessing  supernatural  pov 
ers,  and  was  obeyed  and  almost  worshipped  as  a super'u 
being  ; and  his  word  or  dictate  was  equivalent  to  a lav 
Rais  went  to  the  fair  and  from  thence  to  the  place  of  Wo: 
ship,  and  did  not  return  until  the  afternoon,  when  k: 
informed  me  he  had  bought  a bullock  at  the  fair,  the  be:i 
and  fattest  he  could  find,  though  it  v/as  but  a small  on<! 
He  had  sent  one  half  of  it  to  the  son  of  the  prophet  (cl 
Shariff)  by  the  hand  of  a messenger,  on  a mule,  saying 
“ when  you  deliver  the  flesh  to  the  el  ajjh,  and  he  ask 
you  who  sent  it  to  him,  tell  him  a pious  man,  who  ha! 
lately  come  from  Swearah,  and  is  now  a guest  with  Mule  I 
Ibrahim,  and  wishes  to  be  remembered  in  your  prayers.1 
This,  Rais  said,  was  all  the  message  he  sent,  but  he  wa  j 
sure  that  if  the  Shariff  accepted  the  present  he  should  se 
him  before  the  sun  went  down.  Rais  had  given  the  othei 
half  to  Muley  Ibrahim,  and  remarked,  that  it  was  not  sill 
much  the  real  value  of  a present  that  was  taken  into  con 
sideration  by  the  Moors,  but  the  manner  of  giving  it  3 
which  laid  the  receiver  under  such  an  obligation  as  t( 
make  him  your  friend  for  ever.  This  notion  I was  at ;! 
loss  to  understand,  and  therefore  supposed  it  to  be  some 
peculiarity  in  the  customs  of  these  singular  people.  Rai:» 
went  out  to  prayers  about  sunset,  and  returned  in  a short 
time,  when  he  mentioned  that  he  had  been  waited  upon 
by  the  Shariff,  who  had  asked  him  what  favour  he  wanted, 
that  made  him  send  such  a present  to  a stranger.  Rais 
told  him  our  story,  and  that  he  had  paid  his  money  for 
myself  and  my  companions,  and  begged  his  assistance  to 
force  Sheick  Ali  (whose  power  all  dreaded)  to  consent  to 
have  us  removed  quietly  to  Santa  Cruz,  where  Rais 
thought  his  property  would  be  safe : this  the  Shariff 
promised  to  do,  and  even  to  exert  all  his  power  and  influ- 
ence, if  necessary,  to  remove  and  protect  Rais  and  his 
property  by  force  of  arms,  and  requested  to  be  informed 
without  delay  when  Sheick  Ali  returned. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


199 


On  the  following  day  (November  4th)  the  Sheick  did 
jsturn  ; and,  relying  on  the  friendship  of  Muley  Ibrahim, 
id  only  one  attendant : the  Shariff  was  immediately  in- 
armed of  his  arrival  by  express,  and  came  to  see  him  as 
1 old  friend;  then  taking  him  aside,  he  advised  the 
heick  to  remove  his  slaves  to  Santa  Cruz  as  soon  as  pos- 
:ble,  asserting,  at  the  same  time,  that  he  was  certain  that 
idi  Ishem , whom  the  Sheick  well  knew  and  dreaded,  would 
i j :t  out  from  his  city  on  the  morrow  with  a force,  in  order 

> seize  upon  the  slaves,  whom  he  had  before  strove  hard 

> purchase  for  money  without  success,  and  if  they  were 
cot  in  the  dominions  of  the  emperor  before  he  came,  an- 
:her  day  would  place  them  in  his  hands,  when  the  Sheick 
ould  not  only  lose  them,  but  it  must  also  kindle  a war 

. etween  him  and  that  powerful  chief,  which  would  set 
' le  whole  country  in  a blaze,  and  after  all  it  would  be 
rlnpossible  to  deliver  them  from  his  grasp  by  force.  When 
le  Sheick  heard  the  advice  of  the  Shariff,  he  returned  to 
ur  prison,  and  Rais  contrived  to  find  out  what  had  pass- 
I between  them,  by  again  meeting  the  Shariff  at  the  city 
ate  alone,  as  had  been  before  agreed  upon.  Rais  being 
ius  fully  informed  and  let  into  the  secret,  came  into  the 
fpartment  and  informed  me  how  matters  stood.  Sheick 
di,  in  the  mean  time,  was  unfolding  his  plan  to  Muley 
| brahim,  and  trying  to  gain  his  consent  to  let  the  slaves 
e carried  off  in  the  night  by  surprise,  but  the  prince 
rould  not  consent ; they  were  now  within  his  walls,  and 
e had  given  his  word  they  should  not  be  removed  until 
be  disputed  right  of  property  was  settled  by  all  parties 
ice  to  face  : this  he  should  insist  on.  Finding  that  plan 
t'ould  not  answer  any  good  purpose,  and  fearing  Sidi 
shem’s  expected  arrival,  and  wishing  to  make  a merit  of 
ecessity,  this  crafty  chief  addressing  Rais  bel  Cossim, 
old  him,  in  a flattering  way,  that  he  had  found  him  to  be 
good  and  an  honourable  man,  and  wished  to  be  called 
iis  friend  ; that  he  did  not  doubt  Rais’s  word,  since  he 
:new  his  character,  and  would  therefore  consent  to  go  on 
vith  the  slaves  on  the  morrow  morning,  as  far  as  Santa 
-ruz,  where  they  would  wait  for  the  arrival  of  Sidi  Mamet, 
nd  settle  the  right  of  property  amicably.  Rais,  on  the 
>ther  hand,  as  crafty  as  the  Sheick,  took  Gare  not  to  evince 


200 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


any  desire  of  going ; and  being  in  the  whole  secret,  no 
told  Sheick  Ali,  that  he  had  stopped  him  and  his  Chri< 
tian  slaves  at  first  contrary  to  the  laws  of  justice  and  ho: 
pitality,  and  that  as  he  had  kept  them  so  long  a time,  1 
had  no  wish  to  remove  them  at  present,  but  would  wa 
with  patience  until  Sidi  Hamet  should  come  down  an 
convince  the  Sheick  that  he  had  done  wrong  in  detainin 
him.  At  last,  however,  he  suffered  himself  to  be  pei 
suaded  by  the  united  voices  of  Sheick  Ali  and  Mule 
Ibrahim,  but  on  the  express  condition  of  being  escorte 
to  Santa  Cruz  by  the  prince,  who  was  a party  in  the  who! 
secret.  He  was  also  to  procure  camels  for  us  to  ride  or 
and  went  forth  to  engage  and  have  them  ready  for  a stall 
at  daylight  the  next  morning.  Rais  bel  Cossim  now  in 
formed  me  that  Muley  Ibrahim  had  previously  agreed  t 
accompany  us ; that  we  were  to  ride  on  camels,  and  tha 
two  hundred  horsemen  were  to  guard  us  on  the  road,  i 
order  to  prevent  any  treachery  on  the  part  of  Sheick  Ali 
who  might  already  have  troops  stationed  on  the  way  t 
seize  and  carry  us  off  to  the  mountains  : he  had  also  give: 
private  orders  to  his  friends  and  his  vassals,  to  hold  them 
selves  in  readiness  in  case  of  an  alarm.  The  two  hun 
dred  horsemen  were  to  take  stations,  so  as  to  keep  us  ii 
continual  view  without  exciting  suspicion,  and  to  be  read] 
to  carry  intelligence.  Rais  then  bade  me  kill  and  boi 
what  fowls  and  eggs  remained,  which  I did,  with  the  as 
s-istance  of  my  men,  who  had  very  much  recovered. 

CHARACTER  OP  SIDI  ISHEM. 

While  the  fowls  and  eggs  were  cooking,  I asked  Raiss 
who  this  Sidi  Ishem  was,  as  his  name  alone  had  seemed 
capable  of  inspiring  such  dread.  “ This  Sidi  Ishem ,” 
said  Rais,  “ is  a descendant  of  the  former  kings  of  Suse, 
before  it  was  conquered  by  the  Moors  ; — he  is  a man  of 
between  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age,  possessed  of  great 
wealth  and  power  ; is  very  crafty,  and  very  brave,  but1 
rapacious  and  cruel ; he  has  under  his  command  fifteen 
thousand  horsemen,  well  armed  : they  are  of  the  race  of 
the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the  country,  from  whom  the 
whole  country  derives  the  name  of  Berberia , corrupted'1 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


201 


y the  Europeans  into  Barbary  ; — these  Berberians  are 
xtremely  fierce  and  warlike,  and  are  joined  by  all  the 
i negado  Moors,  who  escape  from  the  emperor’s  domin- 
n,  to  evade  punishment  for  crimes  they  had  committed, 
hese  men  are  always  ready  to  join  him  in  any  of  his  en- 
irprises,  for  they  always  get  a share  of  the  spoil.  He 
]/es  in  the  gorge  of  a mountain,  near  the  town  of  Wid- 
non,  on  the  great  route  from  Morocco  across  the  great 
esert,  to  Soudain,  the  country  beyond  the  desert,  and  the 
tty  of  Tombuctoo.  All  the  caravans  that  travel  either  to 
it  from  the  desert,  are  obliged  to  go  close  to  \V  id  noon, 
i d as  the  Atlas  mountains  are  on  the  one  side,  and  the 
llge  next  the  sea  on  the  other,  they  find  it  highly  neces- 
try  to  secure  his  friendship  and  protection  by  presents, 
cjptween  this  chief  and  the  emperor  of  Morocco  there 
l ists  the  most  implacable  hatred,  and  a continual  jealousy, 
Mich  a few  years  ago  broke  out  into  an  open  war.  The 
nperor  sent  a powerful  army  against  him,  (said  to  be 
|),000  strong,)  but  Sidi  Ishem  was  apprized  of  its  ap- 
joach  in  time,  and  sent  off  all  the  women,  children,  and 
d men,  with  all  their  substance,  to  the  south  foot  of  the 
r.  itlas  mountains,  and  on  the  great  desert.  The  emperor’s 
enay  entered  his  territory,  where  they  found  nothing  to 
sbsist  upon  : yet  as  they  met  with  no  resistance,  they 
crried  on  their  work  of  destruction,  by  burning  all  the 
tivns  and  every  thing  that  was  combustible,  tearing  down 
t;  houses  and  walls  of  their  cities,  so  that  nothing  es- 
cped  their  violence  and  rapacity.  They  continued  pur- 
sing Sidi  Ishem  (who  hovered  about  them  with  most  of 
b men)  until  they  were  exhausted  by  fatigue  and  hunger  , 
Men  this  chief  fell  upon  them  by  surprise  with  his  infu- 
r.ted  followers,  who  had  been  rendered  doubly  desperate 

I the  sight  of  their  ruined  cities.  They  slew  more  than 

I I thousand  on  the  spot ; those  who  escaped  this  dreadful 
(rnage,  and  fled,  were  hunted  down,  and  nearly  all  de- 
coyed, before  they  could  reach  the  city  of  Tarudant , (the 
suthern  and  westernmost  town  in  the  emperor  of  Moroc- 
(.’s  dominions,)  where  the  few  that  were  left  found  shelter, 
i d spread  such  terror  and  dismay  throughout  that  part  of 
tp  empire,  by  the  horrid  accounts  they  gave  of  their  dis-> 
a:ers,  as  to  render  it  impracticable  to  raise  another  armv 

26 


202 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


for  the  purpose  of  reducing  Sidi  Ishem  and  his  men  1 
submission.  All  the  inhabitants  were  soon  recalled  b 
their  chief  from  the  mountains  and  deserts — took  posses 
sion  of  their  country  anew,  rebuilt  their  cities  and  dwel 
ings,  and  are  at  this  time  more  powerful,  more  feared  an 
respected,  than  they  were  previous  to  that  event.”  Th 
is  the  account  Rais  bel  Cossim  gave  me  in  Spanish,  jj 
nearly  as  my  memory  served  me,  when  I took  it  down  j 
Mogadore  : — he  also  said  that  we  had  escaped  falling  int 
his  hands  only  by  groping  our  way  along  a private  path  o 
the  sea-shore.  The  substance  of  this  account  of  Sic 
Ishem  was  confirmed,  after  my  arrival  at  Mogadore,  b 
Mr.  Willshire  and  others. 

Our  food  being  prepared,  and  every  thing  packed  u 
tight  for  a start,  we  took  a short  nap,  and  at  daylight  o 
the  morning  of  the  4th  of  November,  we  were  placed  o 
five  camels,  which  were  saddled  much  better  than  any  w 
had  hitherto  rode  : they  had  on  them  also  bags  of  barley 
and  empty  sacks,  made  of  tent  cloth,  that  would  hold, 
should  suppose,  ten  or  twelve  bushels  ; these  all  togethe 
made  quite  a comfortable  seat,  though  rather  a wide  one' 
and  we  could  hold  ourselves  on  by  the  ropes  that  securer 
the  lading.  They  placed  me  on  the  largest  camel  I hacj 
yet  seen,  which  was  nine  or  ten  feet  in  height.  Thi 
camels  were  now  all  kneeling  or  lying  down,  and  mini 
among  the  rest.  I thought  I had  taken  a good  hold  t( ' 
steady  myself  while  he  was  rising,  yet  his  motion  was  sc 
heavy,  and  my  strength  so  far  exhausted,  that  I could  no  j 
possibly  hold  on,  and  tumbled  off  over  his  tail,  turning 
entirely  over.  I came  down  upon  my  feet,  which  pre 
vented  my  receiving  any  material  injury,  though  the  shod 
to  my  frame  was  very  severe.  The  owner  of  the  came 
helped  me  up,  and  asked  me  if  I was  injured  ? I told  hirr 
no  : “ God  be  praised,”  said  he,  “ for  turning  you  over 
had  you  fallen  upon  your  head,  these  stones  must  have 
dashed  out  your  brains;  but  the  camel,”  added  he,  “ is 2 
sacred  animal,  and  heaven  protects  those  who  ride  on  him 
had  you  fallen  from  an  ass,  though  he  is  only  two  cubits 
and  a half  high,  it  would  have  killed  you  ; for  the  ass  is 
not  so  noble  a creature  as  the  camel  and  the  horse.”  1 
afterwards  found  this  to  be  the  prevailing  opinion  among 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


203 


ill  classes  of  the  Moors  and  the  Arabs. — When  they  put 
ne  on  again,  two  of  the  men  steadied  me  by  the  legs  until 
he  camel  was  fairly  up,  and  then  told  me  to  be  careful, 
nd  to  hold  on  fast : they  also  took  great  care  to  assist  my 
ompanions  in  the  same  way. 

Being  now  all  mounted,  we  set  off  to  the  northeast, 
saving  Stuka,  (for  that  was  the  name  of  the  place  where 
ve  had  been  confined,)  accompanied  by  Rais  bel  Cossim, 
vluley  Ibrahim,  and  his  two  servants,  and  Sheick  Ali, 
vith  his  attendant,  all  riding  on  mules  and  asses  : the  five 
owners  of  the  camels  went  on  foot,  each  driving  his  own 
:amel,  and  taking  care  of  its  rider.  Stuka  is  built  in  a 
[uadrangular  form  ; its  walls  would  measure  about  thre'e 
mndred  yards  on  each  angle ; they  are  built  of  rough 
tone,  laid  in  clay,  and  appeared  to  be  four  or  five  feet 
hick  at  their  base,  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  tapering  off 
o two  feet  thick  at  the  top,  and  were  crowned  with  turrets 
.11  around.  It  has  but  one  gate,  which  is  at  its  north  angle, 
very  strongly  made,  and  swinging  on  the  ends  of  its  back 
oosts,  which  are  let  into  large  stone  sockets  at  the  bottom 
:nd  at  the  top  : the  gate  consisted  of  two  folding  leaves, 
md  at  night  was  secured  by  four  heavy  wooden  bars. 
The  town  was  divided  within  into  as  many  compartments 
f is  there  were  families  in  it,  which  I should  think  might 
imount  to  three  hundred,  probably  containing  in  all  five 
housand  souls.  The  houses  are  built  of  the  same  mate- 
ials  as  the  walls — only  one  story  high,  and  flat  roofed  : 
f excepting  the  door,  they  looked  like  heaps  of  mud  and 
stone  : even  that  of  the  prince  bore  the  same  appearance, 
1 vithout  any  other  distinction  or  ornament  than  being  closer 
ointed,  and  more  bedaubed  with  mud.  All  the  flocks 
ind  herds  were  driven  within  the  walls  every  night,  and 
;ach  owner  makes  those  that  belong  to  him  lie  down  in 
tis  own  yard  or  enclosure. 

As  we  travelled  on,  we  passed  between  a great  number 
3f  cities  or  towns,  similar  in  appearance  to  Stuka,  with 
ivhich  this  truly  vast  plain  is  chequered.  The  whole 
plain  seemed  very  fertile,  was  planted  with  numerous 
groves  and  orchards  of  fig  and  other  fruit  trees,  with  here 
tnd  there  a clump  of  the  arga  tree,  yellow  with  fruit.  The 
inhabitants  were  busied  in  ploughing  up  the  soil,  with  a 


204  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

kind  of  plough  which  I shall  hereafter  describe.  We  pr< 
ceeded  on  very  rapidly,  keeping  those  on  foot  runnin 
constantly,  and  had  been  travelling  about  six  hours,  whe 
we  came  to  the  ruins  of  many  towns  on  our  left,  simili 
in  appearance  to  Stuka ; near  the  shattered  walls  of  sorri 
of  which  stood  several  battering  machines,  but  they  wei 
at  the  distance  of  a mile  or  more  from  us.  These  place 
appeared  to  have  been  recently  inhabited  ; for  the  garden 
near  the  walls  were  still  green  with  vegetation.  Wishin 
to  know  what  had  been  the  cause  of  such  desolation, 
was  informed  by  Muley  Ibrahim  and  Sheick  Ali,  throug 
Rais  bel  Cossim,  that  a family  quarrel  happened  about  on 
year  ago  between  the  chiefs  of  two  of  these  towns,  whic 
soon  broke  out  into  the  most  dreadful  kind  of  warfare 
each  party  engaged  their  friends  to  assist  them  in  fightin; 
what  each  termed  their  righteous  battles : the  neighbour 
ing  towns  joined,  some  on  one  side,  and  some  on  tb 
other,  and  the  plain  was  deluged  with  blood.  This  quar 
rel  being  only  of  a family  nature,  Sidi  Ishem  did  not  in ' 
terfere,  and  it  was  finally  settled  by  the  destruction  of  sevei 
of  those  small  cities,  and  most  of  their  inhabitants 
These  ruins  were  now  entirely  abandoned,  and  their  envi- 
rons  laid  desolate,  though  the  war  continued  only  ont 
month.  I could  scarcely  believe  it  possible  for  such  de- 
vastation to  have  been  committed  in  so  short  a time  or  oiij 
such  trivial  grounds  ; but  Rais  bel  Cossim  (who  was  bori]; 
near  Santa  Cruz)  assured  me  that  nothing  was  more  com- 
mon than  such  feuds  between  families  in  those  parts  ; that 
he  had  known  many  himself,  with  every  circumstance  at-; 
tending  them,  and  that  they  were  very  seldom  finished 
until  one  family  or  the  other  was  exterminated,  and  their 
names  blotted  out  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 

We  continued  our  journey  until  about  mid-day,  still  on 
the  plain,  when  Santa  Cruz  or  Agader  was  distinctly  seen, 
and  pointed  out  to  me.  It  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a 
high  mountain  ; its  walls  are  white,  and  can  be  descried 
at  a great  distance.  The  plain  on  which  we  travelled  was 
nearly  level ; not  a brook  or  stream  of  water  had  we  pass- 
ed since  leaving  the  last  mentioned  river,  but  the  towns 
and  villages  had  many  deep  wells  near  their  walls,  from 
which  the  inhabitants  drew  water  for  themselves  and  their 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA, 


205 


.imerous  cattle. — Innumerable  clumps  of  the  ever-green 
jga  tree,  loaded  with  the  rich  oil  nut,  were  scattered  over 
e plain  in  every  direction.  Vast  numbers  of  leafless  fig 
^ pes,  and  enclosures  of  grape  vines  with  date,  pome- 
1 anate,  almond,  orange,  and  other  fruit  trees,  promised 
mndance  in  their  seasons,  and  delightfully  variegated  the 
ene.  Hundreds  of  the  inhabitants  were  busied  in  plough  - 
the  soil  (which  appeared  rich,  though  dry)  and  sow- 
g their  barley  ; while  their  herds  were  browsing  on  the 
rubs  round  about,  for  the  want  of  grass.  Many  un- 
imed  men,  with  droves  of  camels  and  asses  loaded  with 
It  and  other  merchandize,  were  meeting  and  passing  us 
M imost  continually.  We  saw  also  from  time  to  time, 
inds  of  armed  men  on  horseback,  of  about  fifty  in  each 
ind,  most  of  whom  I learned  from  Rais  were  the  friends 
'Muley  Ibrahim,  whom  he  had  requested  to  ride  guard, 
I before  mentioned,  and  to  be  ready  to  act  in  our  be- 
ilf  in  case  of  treachery,  or  of  any  emergency  whatever, 
ur  path  led  us  in  a N.  E.  direction,  and  the  camels 
ere  kept  most  of  the  time  on  a great  trot,  while  their 
'ivers  were  running  on  foot,  and  kept  up  with  us,  seem- 
gly,  with  great  ease  ; though  I compute  we  rode  at  the 


,te  of  seven  or  eight  miles  an  hour. 


About  two  P.  M.  approaching  the  coast,  we  fell  in 
ith  huge  drifts  of  loose  sand  on  our  left,  which  extended 
fit  the  sea  shore.  This  sand  had  been  driven  from  the 

|:a  beach  by  the  constant  trade  winds,  and  as  the  sea  had 
bred,  (for  it  was  clean  coarse  beach  sand,)  it  had  un- 
oubtedly  for  ages  been  making  its  way  gradually  from, 
te  coast,  (which  was  now  about  twenty  miles  distant,) 
id  had  buried,  as  I was  informed,  several  flourishing 
illages,  towns,  and  cities,  the  tops  of  whose  walls  were 
ill  visible  ; the  circular  domes  of  a considerable  number 
f saint-houses,  or  sanctuaries,  whose  bodies  were  en- 
rely  enveloped,  were  yet  to  be  seen  among  these  barren 
eaps  of  overwhelming  sands  ; for  the  inhabitants  take 
reat  care  to  clear  away  around  them,  and  to  give  them  a 
whitewashing  every  year.  Muley  Ibrahim  informed  me 
lat  a large  town  called  Rabeah,  whose  ruins  we  had 
assed  in  mounting  over  the  sand  hills,  was  a flourishing 
lace  within  his  remembrance  ; (probably  fifty  years  ago ;) 


206 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE; 


that  he  himself  was  born  in  it — but  that  large  bodies 
sand  had  already  encroached  upon  its  northern  wall ; tl 
as  soon  as  it  was  overtopped  it  fell  in,  and  the  whole  ci 
was  filled  with  sand  in  the  course  of  one  year  after,  ai 
its  inhabitants  forced  to  seek  a new  shelter.  These  dri; 
extended  as  far  as  we  could  distinguish  sand  on  our  rigl 
Having  got  past  the  high  heaps,  which  filled  a space 


eight  or  ten  miles  in  width,  we  came  to  the  high  banks 


an  apparently  once  large  river,  now  called  by  the  nativ 
el  JVoecl  Sta.  This  river’s  ancient  bed,  and  the  high  bank 
which  are  still  perfectly  distinct,  bear  the  strongest  marl 
of  having  been  once  laved  by  a stream  of  four  or  ft 


miles  in  breadth,  and  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  depth, 


by  a part  of  the  ocean.  The  steep,  barren,  and  crags 
mountains,  rising  before  us  to  the  eastward  and  southwar 
though  very  high,  appeared  to  serve  only  as  a base  to  tl 
mighty  range  of  Atlas,  whose  towering  height  and  grai 
deur  filled  my  mind  with  awe  and  astonishment.  No 


withstanding  my  frame  was  literally  exhausted,  yet  m 


imagination  transported  me  back  to  a time  when  this  r 
gion  might  have  been  inhabited  by  men  in  a higher  stai 
of  civilization,  and  when  it  was  probably  one  of  the  faire: 
portions  of  the  African  continent.  My  reasons  for  im; 


gining  this  are,  first,  that  it  is  well  known  by  historian: 
tLnt  the  Romans  had  settlements  ^lnno-  tin's  nc  ft 


that  the  Romans  had  settlements  along  this  coast  as  ft 
south  as  Salee  at  least,  and  no  doubt  much  further.  Se 
cond,  that  the  Portusruese  and  Spaniards  had  possessei 
the  settlements  of  Mamora , Mazagan,  Asbedre , Sant 
Cruz,  &c.  Third,  by  the  traditional  information  obtainei 
from  Rais  bel  Cossirn  and  Sidi  Mohammed,  I have  n< 
doubt  that  a large  city  and  settlement  of  civilized  mei 
existed  at  a former  period  near  the  mouth  of  the  rive: 
Schelem , from  sixty  to  one  hundred  miles  west  of  Sant; 
Cruz,  and  I am  firmly  of  opinion  that  the  convenience  o 
these  harbours,  the  luxuriancy  of  the  surrounding  soil 
and  the  commercial  advantages  this  part  of  the  countrj 
offers,  were  a sufficient  inducement  for  colonization. 

We  had  now  approached  to  within  two  miles  of  Sank 
Cruz  or  Agader,  (the  lower  town  or  port,)  when  rising  an 
eminence,  the  ocean  opened  to  our  view  at  a distance,  and 
near  by  appeared  Santa  Cruz  bay,  which  was  then  quit* 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


207 

jnooth.  Nearly  one  hundred  good  looking  fishing  boats 
iere  hauled  up  on  the  beach  out  of  the  reach  of  the  surf, 
nd  numbers  of  long  fishing  nets  were  spread  out  to  dry 
<1  the  sand  and  over  the  boats.  This  view  gave  a most 
vourable  idea  of  the  importance  ol  this  bay  as  a fishery. 

■ The  sun  had  not  yet  set,  and  Rais  informed  me  he  did 

■ >t  wish  to  enter  the  lower  town  till  dark,  and  did  not 
| !ean  to  go  nearer  the  fortress  than  he  could  help,  for  fear 

insult  and  detention  ; so  we  stopped  about  a mile  short 
1 it,  to  the  southward,  where  1 had  an  opportunity  of 
:amining  this  bay  with  a seaman’s  eye.  It  is  spacious 
^td  perfectly  well  defended  from  the  common  trade  winds, 
y from  N.  N.  VV.  all  round  the  compass  by  the  east, 
d as  far  as  S.  YV.;  thence  to  N.  N.  W.  it  is  entirely  open, 
d of  course  is  a very  dangerous  anchorage  in  the  winter 
onths,  when  westerly  winds  prevail  on  these  coasts,  at 
hich  times,  as  there  is  no  possibility  of  getting  to  sea, 
ssels  at  anchor  in  this  bay  must  remain  where  they  are  ; 
>t,  however,  without  the  greatest  risk  of  being  driven  on 
ore  in  spite  of  the  best  of  anchors  and  cables,  and  large 
:ssels  must  ride  too  far  out  to  make  it  a good  harbour  for 
em  at  any  season  of  the  year.  The  port  of  Santa  Cruz, 

, as  it  is  called  by  the  natives,  Agacler , has  been  shut 
r order  of  the  Sultan  for  many  years  ; yet  there  are  parts 
' the  wrecks  of  vessels  still  visible,  sticking  up  through 
e sand  on  the  beach. 

A little  while  after  sunset  we  entered  the  lower  town,  or 
>rt,  as  it  is  called  : this  village  is  situated  on  the  steep 
.xlivity  of  the  mountain’s  base,  on  which  the  upper  town 
built,  and  near  the  sea,  which  washes  the  south  end  of 

fe  principal  street.  The  steep  side  of  the  mountain  on 
hich  this  village  is  erected,  has  been  apparently  sloped 
own  by  art,  so  as  to  make  it  practicable  to  build  on  it ; 
as  one  principal  street  and  several  small  alleys  : the  houses 
;e  built  of  rough  stone  laid  in  lime  mortar,  and  are  but 
ne  story  in  height,  with  flat  roofs  terraced  with  lime  and 
ebbles.  We  could  see  the  tops  of  many  houses  below 
>,  and  the  whole  made  but  a miserable  appearance.  It 
as  not  quite  dark  when  we  entered  the  village.  The 
reet  was  soon  filled  with  Moors,  (men  and  boys,)  and 
: ev  saluted  us  by  spitting  on  us,  and  pelting  us  with 


208 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


stones  and  sticks,  accompanied  with  the  Spanish  wor1 
“ Carajo  a la  Mierda  le  Sara , perro  y bestias ,”  and  mat 
other  chosen  phrases,  equally  delicate  and  polite  ; b 
some  of  the  old  men  now  and  then  uttered  a “ How  < 
do,  Christianos  ?”  in  broken  English  and  Spanish.  W 
were  conducted  through  the  street  to  its  further  extremr 
towards  the  north,  where  we  took  up  our  quarters  for  tl 
night  in  the  open  air,  alongside  a smith’s  shop  ; our  can 
els  and  asses  were  then  fed  with  barley.  Some  of  the  ii 
habitants  kindled  a fire  for  our  company,  whilst  othe: 
were  preparing  a rich  repast  for  them  of  boiled  and  bake 
fish,  and  cous-koo-soo , of  which,  after  they  had  eater 
they  gave  us  the  remains,  and  we  found  it  excellent  foot 
Numbers  of  men,  driving  asses  before  them,  loaded  wit 
fish,  had  passed  us  going  into  the  country,  the  day  befon 
and  they  were  of  the  same  kind  as  those  we  had  taste 
soon  after  our  entrance  into  Suse,  and  we  had  also  see 
the  same  kind  of  fish  at  Stuka : they  carry  them  froi 
Santa  Cruz,  or  Agader,  about  the  country  in  every  direr 
tion,  where  they  sell  them  for  a good  price,  being  muc 
in  request.  This  fish  very  much  resembles  the  salmon! 
both  in  size,  shape,  and  flavour — weighing,  from  appear 
ance,  from  eight  to  sixteen  or  twenty  pounds  ; and  is  ex 
tremely  fat  and  delicate.  I then  recollected  to  have  seei 
in  my  several  voyages  to  the  Canary  Islands,  numbers  o 
small  vessels  arrive  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  laden  witl 
this  species  of  fish,  and  to  have  been  told  they  were  caugh 
near  that  coast : they  are  highly  esteemed  in  the  Canaries 
where  they  call  them  Bacalao  Africano , or  the  African  cod' 
fish,  and  are  sold  at  from  five  to  ten  dollars  per  quintal,  oi 
at  least  one- third  higher  than  the  best  of  American  cod- 
fish : they  are  dried,  without  salting,  on  the  vessels’  decks, 
and  their  scent  is  so  strong  as  nearly  to  suffocate  the  crews 
of  merchant  vessels  that  lie  near  them  while  discharging. 
I have  been  told  that  no  less  than  one  hundred  barks,  ol 
from  fifteen  to  fifty  tons  burden,  are  continually  employed 
in  this  fishery  near  the  African  coast,  from  the  Canary 
Islands,  and  that  scarcely  a year  passes  without  more  or 
less  of  them  being  driven  on  shore  by  tempests  or  other 
accidents,  when  the  crews  either  perish  with  the  vessel,  or 
upon  their  reaching  the  shore  are  massacred  by  the  natives, 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


209 


l>s*  else  carried  off  into  the  interior  as  slaves,  where  they  are 
lever  after  heard  from.  After  my  arrival  in  Mogadore, 
r Swearah,  I was  informed  that  the  crew  of  a bark  of  this 

Inscription  landed  imprudently  on  the  beach  not  far  from. 

lanta  Cruz,  about  two  years  since,  where  they  were  sur- 
prised by  a sudden  attack,  but  all  escaped  into  the  boat 
l xcept  one  man,  who  was  seized  and  carried  off.  On  the 
c pturn  of  the  bark  to  Teneriffe,  the  wife  of  the  man  who 
ad  been  left,  upon  inquiring  for  her  husband,  was  inform- 
t),  d that  he  was  made  a slave  : distracted  by  this  shocking 
j|  vent,  she  ran,  raving  as  she  was,  to  the  archbishop,  and 
ltj  egged  of  him  either  to  take  her  life,  or  restore  to  her  arms 
er  lost  husband,  the  father  of  five  helpless  children  : she 
'as  poor,  but  her  case  excited  general  pity — a subscription 
'as  opened,  and  the  sum  of  about  five  hundred  dollars 
non  raised.  The  archbishop  in  the  mean  time  wrote  to 
Llexander  W.  Court,  then  Spanish  agent  at  Mogadore,  to 
’r,  insomthis  unfortunate  man,  which  he  effected  with  much 
ifficulty  ; but  as  the  money  did  not  come  on  in  time,  or 
)om  some  other  cause,  this  poor  Spaniard,  whose  name  was 
?ermin , remained  in  Mogadore  for  nearly  a year  without 
eing  permitted  to  go  home,  when  Mr.  William  Wiltshire 
ad  Don  Plabo  Riva,  of  Mogadore,  and  Mr.  John  O’Sulli- 
tn,  of  New- York,  interfered  in  his  favour ; furnished  him 
ith  clothing ; procured  for  him  a passage,  and  sent  him  to 
is  disconsolate  family.  This  is  said  to  be  the  only  Span- 
rd  who  has  been  redeemed  in  that  part  of  Barbary  for 
lany  years  past. 

- 

CHAPTER  XXIIL 

heick  Ali  out-manoeuvred  again  by  Rais  bel  Cossim—They 
set  off  in  the  night — Meet  with  Sidi  Hamet  and  his  broth- 
er, accompanied  by  some  Moors  with  mules  sent  by  Mr. 
Wiltshire  for  the  sufferers  to  ride  on — Occurrences  on  the 
road — Meeting  with  Mr.  Wiltshire  near  Swearah  or 
Mogadore — They  go  into  that  city — are  ordered  before  the 
Bashaw — are  cleansed , clothed , and  fed  by  their  deliverer . 

After  supper,  Rais  bel  Cossim  told  me  to  keep  a 
aod  look  out ; that  he  would  watch  the  motions  of  Sheick 

27 


210 


CAPTAIN  RILEY!S  NARRATIVE, 


Ali,  who  he  still  feared  was  plotting  against  our  libertj 
After  I had  informed  my  enfeebled  and  desponding  con 
panions  that  we  were  now  out  of  danger  from  the  Arab; 
(having  come  about  fifty  miles  from  Stuka,)  and  in  th 
emperor  of  Morocco’s  dominions,  and,  consequently,  sui 
of  being  liberated,  and  that  too  in  a very  few  days  ; an 
after  telling  them  that  we  must  bear  up  under  our  fatiguej 
with  fortitude,  and  exert  our  remaining  strength  and  spii 
its,  in  order  to  reach  Mogadore  ; we  all  laid  ourselvt 
down  to  rest ; and  my  companions,  though  they  had  t$ 
bare  ground  for  their  bed,  yet  as  they  were  wrapped  u 
in  cloaks,  and  had  their  stomachs  well  filled  with  gooj 
and  nourishing  food,  soon  fell  asleep.  As  for  myself,  fea: 
hope,  and  various  other  sensations,  kept  me  awake,  an 
I could  not  close  my  eyes,  but  waited  with  extreme  ans 
iety  for  the  appearance  of  Rais  bel  Cossim.  Soon  aftei 
midnight  Rais  came,  and  finding  me  awake,  he  rouse 
me  and  the  owners  of  the  camels,  and  requested  them  t 
get  ready  to  go  on  speedily,  and  then  told  me  that  on  en 
tering  this  place,  while  he  was  busied  in  feeding  his  muk 
Sheick  Ali  had  stolen  oft’  privately  to  the  town,  and  visit 
eel  the  governor,,  who  had  agreed,  on  his  representation 
to  take  us  into  custody  in  the  morning  at  day-break,  an 
assist  in  extorting  what  money  the  Sheick  demanded  ; c 
to  connive  at  our  being  stolen  and  carried  back  by  Sheic 
Ali’s  men  to  Suse.  “ I have  learned  this  (said  he)  fron 
an  Old  friend  of  mine,  whom  I met  and  commissioned  t 
watch  Sheick  Ali’s  motions  when  we  were  coming  into  thi 
place  : awaken  your  shipmates  : you  must  depart  this  in 
stant : the  drivers  know  the  road  ; it  is  very  rocky  : yoi 
must  tell  your  men  to  hold  on  as  tight  as  possible  ; am 
remember,  if  you  are  four  leagues  from  this  town  befor 
daylight,  your  liberty  is  secured,  if  not,  you  will  be  agai 
the  most  miserable  of  slaves.  Encourage  your  men  t< 
use  their  utmost  exertions,  and  I hope,  with  God’s  bless 
ing,  in  three  days  more  you  will  be  in  Swearah  with  you 
friend.  I will  join  you  as  soon  as  possible.”  The  camel 
were  by  this  time  ready  : we  were  placed  on  them,  am 
proceeded  up  the  rocky  steeps  as  fast  as  possible,  but  wit! 
ihe  most  profound  silence.  Sleep  seemed  to  have  literallj 
sealed  the  eyes  of  all  the  Moors  in  the  lower  town,  aw 


211 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA.-' 

n the  batteries  near  the  path  through  which  we  passed  ; 
hese  batteries  rose  one  above  another  like  an  amphitheatre 
owards  the  fortress.  The  quadrangular  walls  of  the  town 
nd  fortress  of  Santa  Cruz,  or  Agader,  crowned  the  sum- 
nit  of  this  mountain  on  our  right,  and  stand,  from  ap- 
pearance, not  less  than  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
>f  the  sea.  We  went  fast  forward,  in  profound  silence, 
vhich  was  not  in  the  least  disturbed  by  the  tread  of  the 
. amels,  because  their  feet  are  as  soft  as  sponge  or  leather  : 
i Inly  the  hoarse  roaring  of  the  surf  breaking  among  the 
locks  below  us,  startled  the  ear,  and  excited  in  my  mind 
rightful  images  of  direful  shipwrecks,  and  the  consequent 
miseries  of  the  poor  mariner  driven  on  this  inhospitable 

Joast- 

We  had  been  hurrying  on  as  fast  as  possible  for  about 
wo  hours,  and  had  gained  the  distance  of  probably  three 
pagues  from  Santa  Cruz,  when  our  ears  were  struck  with 
he  clinking  sound  of  iron  against  the  stones,  which  an- 
ounced  the  approach  of  horses  or  mules  that  were  shod  ; 
nd  in  an  instant,  though  dark,  we  discovered  close  by  us 
m our  right,  a considerable  number  of  men  riding  on 
lilies,  and  passing  the  other  way.  Not  a word  was  ut- 
^red  on  either  side,  nor  could  the  faces  of  any  be  distin- 
;uished,  though  we  were  not  more  than  three  or  four  yards 
sunder.  A thought  darting  across  my  mind,  suggested 
b me  that  it  was  my  old  master : I instantly  called  out, 
udi  Hamet  / and  was  quickly  answered,  Ascoon  Riley  ? 
who  is  it,  Riley?)  The  whole  company  stopped  in  an 
istant,  and  the  next  moment  I had  the  joy  of  kissing  the 
iand  of  my  old  master  and  benefactor.  Sidi  Mohammed, 
>eid,  and  Bo- Mohammed,  were  in  his  company,  together 
pith  three  or  four  Moors,  whom  our  kind  friend  had  sent 
[own,  charged  with  the  money  and  mules  for  our  ransom 
nd  conveyance.  The  principal  Moor,  and  who  had  charge 
if  the  money  until  we  were  delivered  over  according  to 
he  wish  of  Sidi  Hamet,  spoke  Spanish  fluently ; he  want- 
d to  inquire  of  me  where  Rais  bel  Cossim  was  : I told 
lirn  at  Santa  Cruz.  Sidi  Hamet  wished  to  question  me 
limself,  and  asked  me  “Where  is  Sheick  Ali  ?”  and 
vhen  I informed  him  that  I had  left  him  in  Santa  Cruz,  in 
ompany  with  Rais  bel  Cossim  and  Muley  Ibrahim,  he 


212  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 

was  satisfied ; and  said  Sheick  Ali  was  a bad  man,  an  { 
did  not  fear  God.  Seid  also  pretended  to  be  much  r<  j 
joiced  at  our  being  on  the  road  to  Mogadore,  and  yet 
thought  I could  discover  that  he  was  trying  to  play  a dee: 
game  of  artful  duplicity  : but  old  Sidi  Mohammed  was  ij 
truth  rejoiced  to  find  us  in  the  emperor’s  dominions.- 
Having  now  been  absolutely  delivered  over  to  Bel  Mooder\ 
the  Moor  who  had  charge  of  the  money,  he  paid  it  ov< 
to  Sidi  Hamet,  and  three  of  us  were  mounted  on  mule: 
and  proceeded  on,  while  all  those  whom  we  met  went  tc i 
wards  Santa  Cruz,  except  the  three  Moors  who  owne 
and  brought  the  mules  down  for  us  to  ride  on,  and  wh 
remained  and  proceeded  northward  w7ith  us. 

All  the  time  we  had  stopped  to  make  the  necessary  ai 
rangements  above  mentioned,  the  owners  of  the  camel  i 
were  urging  us  to  go  forward,  thereby  showing  a dispcj 
sition  to  obey  the  orders  of  Rais  bel  Cossim,  and  wouL, 
not  for  a long  time  believe  that  those  who  stopped  u 
were  not  our  enemies.  The  backs  of  the  mules  wer 
covered  with  large  saddles  made  of  coarse  cloth,  stuffeii 
with  straw,  and  formed  very  broad,  so  as  to  fit  their  shape 
and  reached  almost  from  their  heads  to  their  tails  : thi 
kind  of  saddle  is  too  broad  for  a man  to  attempt  to  stride 
Over  the  saddles  were  placed  what  the  Moors  and  Arab 
call  a shwerry,  which  is  made  like  a double  basket,  an< 
formed  of  palm  leaves  woven  together  like  mat  work 
each  of  these  baskets  might  contain  about  two  bushels 
they  are  attached  together  by  a mat  woven  in  with  anc 
like  the  rest,  of  about  a foot  and  a half  in  width,  suffi 
ciently  strong  to  bear  a burden,  and  long  enough  to  le 
them  hang  down  easily  on  the  sides  of  the  mules  : tin 
outer  part  of  this  shwerry  is  held  up  by  means  of  a rope 
passing  through  the  handle  on  one  side,  and  tied  Jo  thai 
on  the  other,  passing  over  the  mule’s  back.  In  thi; 
shwerry,  they  carry  their  provisions,  merchandise,  and 
spare  clothing,  (if  any  they  have,)  when  on  their  jour- 
neys. The  rider  sits  on  the  saddle  above  the  shwerry, 
with  both  legs  on  one  side,  balancing  his  body  exactly, 
and  rides  extremely  easy,  as  he  can  shift  his  position  ai 
pleasure,  and  the  mule’s  gait  is  an  easy,  fast  ambling  walk, 
which  they  are  taught  when  very  young ; their  motion  u 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA.'1 


213 


vry  slight,  and  was  a seasonable  relief  to  our  almost  dis- 
Icated  limbs:  the  change,  with  respect  to  jolting,  was 
v great  from  the  camel  to  the  mule,  that  we  could  not 
l:ep  our  eyes  open  from  mere  drowsiness,  and  Burns 
Sitting  asleep,  dropped  off  his  mule,  and  was  so  badly 
jirtasto  be  from  that  time  incapable  of  supporting  him- 
4 If ; so  that  a Moor  was  obliged  to  sit  before  or  behind 
Jm,  and  keep  him  on,  driving  the  mule  at  the  same 
Ju|me  : and  this  was  continued  during  the  remainder  of 
ntiur  journey. 

We  had  proceeded  in  this  way  until  about  ten  o’clock, 
lihen  we  were  joined  by  Rais  bel  Cossim,  Sidi  Hamet, 
teid,  Sidi  Mohammed,  and  Bel  Mooden.  I now  inquired 
S'  Rais  what  had  become  of  Muley  Ibrahim  and  Sheick 
®|.Ii,  with  their  attendants,  and  he  told  me  they  had  set 
is  Jilt  for  their  respective  homes.  I wanted  to  know  all  the 
jirticulars  of  their  proceedings,  and  Rais  promised  to 
Itisfy  me  after  breakfast,  which  we  now  stopped  to  eat 
I iz.  biscuit  and  butter)  near  a well  that  afforded  us  good 
sater,  though  nearly  on  a level  with  the  sea.  After  we 
'ere  again  mounted,  he  began  to  relate  as  follows  : — - 
('  When  my  friend  told  me  of  Sheick  Ali’s  plan,  I stole 
way  softly,  and  came  and  sent  you  off  without  the 
Iheick ’s  knowledge ; but  Muley  Ibrahim  was  in  the  se- 
ret,  and  remained  with  the  Sheick  to  prevent  alarm  if  he 
lould  awake  during  my  absence.”  Rais  bel  Cossim 
irther  told  me  in  substance,  that  as  soon  as  we  were  on 
ar  journey,  he  returned  and  laid  himself  down  to  sleep 
r iross  the  door- way,  where  Sheick  Ali  slept,  and  in  such 
manner  as  to  make  it  impossible  for  the  Sheick  to  go  out 
ithout  alarming  him ; the  Sheick  awoke  at  the  dawn  of 
ay,  and  finding  himself  blockaded  in  the  house,  awakened 
Lais,  and  told  him  that  they  had  better  wait  on  the  gov- 
rnor  this  morning,  to  which  Rais  consented,  but  wanted 
) see  the  slaves  first,  so  as  to  have  some  coffee  made  : 
fis  was  agreed  on ; but  when  they  came  where  we  had 
lept,  and  found  none  of  us  there,  nor  the  camels,  nor 
aeir  drivers,  Rais  broke  out  into  the  most  violent  passion 
pparently ; accused  the  Sheick  of  having  robbed  him  of 
iis  slaves  during  the  night,  and  said  he  would  instantly 
tave  him  seized  and  delivered  up  to  the  governor,  to  be 


f 

214  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

punished  according  to  the  Moorish  law.  Muley  Ibrahii 
who  knew  the  whole  affair,  joined  with  Rais,  protesti  ? 
he  could  no  longer  hold  friendship  with  a man  who  v\ 
capable  of  committing  such  an  act,  which  he  consider 
to  be  one  of  the  worst  breaches  of  faith  that  ever  d 1 
graced  a»man  of  his  (the  Sheick’s)  high  character.  Shei  J 
AH  was  thunderstruck  by  this  unexpected  event — c 
dared,  in  the  most  solemn  manner,  that  he  knew  nothii 
about  our  escape  ; begged  he  might  not  be  delivered  i! 
to  the  governor  ; acknowledged  he  had  laid  a plan  the  pr 
ceding  evening  for  our  detention  ; wished  Rais  to  lea 
the  governor  a small  present,  and  proceed  on  the  ro; 
towards  Mogadore  in  the  hope  of  finding  us,  saying,  V 
must  have  gone  that  way,  as  the  gates  were  shut  on  ti 
other  side,  and  there  was  no  possibility  of  turning  bat 
by  any  other  route.  The  Sheick  added,  “ I am  in  yo 
power,  and  will  go  on  with  you  and  my  friend  Mule; 
Ibrahim,  without  any  attendants,  to  prove  to  you  that 
am  innocent,  and  that  I place  the  greatest  confidence 
your  friendship.”  Thus  they  agreed  to  pursue  and  ei' 
deavour  to  overtake  the  supposed  runaway  slaves  ; bi  j 
soon  after  they  had  mounted  the  hills  north  of  Santa  Cru:  I 
meeting  our  former  masters,  with  Bel  Mooden  and  Sid 
Mohammed,  who  had  seen  us,  (as  I before  mentioned 
they  stopped  and  talked  over  their  several  affairs.  Sheic 
Ali  insisted  that  Sidi  Hamet  had  treated  him  very  ill : th;| 
he  and  Seid  owed  him  four  hundred  dollars,  which  the! 
were  to  pay  him  on  their  return  from  the  desert,  but  th; 
they  had  passed  by  his  lands  three  days’  journey  with  thei 
slaves,  without  even  calling  on  him  to  eat  bread  : he  add 
ed,  he  would  have  gone  with  them  himself,  and  with  a 
armed  force  through  Sidi  Ishem’s  country,  to  preven 
that  chief  from  taking  their  properly — “ but  you  wishei 
to  cheat  me  of  my  money,  as  you  did  of  my  daughter,’ 
said  he,  addressing  himself  to  Sidi  Hamet.  Sidi  Hamet 
whose  voice  had  been  very  high  before,  now  lowering  hi: 
tone,  said,  it  was  better  to  settle  their  disputes  than  tc 
quarrel ; so  he  acknowledged  he  owed  his  father-in- lav 
three  hundred  and  sixty  dollars  for  goods,  but  assertec 
that  they  were  not  worth  half  the  money  : he  would,  how 
ever,  pay  the  principal,  but  no  interest,  which  would  have 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


215 


s elled  the  amount  of  debt  to  more  than  five  hundred 
Jjlars : the  Sheick  agreed  to  take  the  principal,  which 
ks  counted  out  in  silver,  as  he  would  not  take  gold 
^Jubloons  in  payment,  because  he  did  not  know  their 
ml  value.  He  then  delivered  up  Sidi  Hamet’s  bond,  and 
s d he  would  return  to  his  tribe.  Rais  bel  Cossim  gave 
J uley  Ibrahim  a present  in  cash,  and  they  separated,  hav- 
jilg'  first  vow  ed  everlasting  friendship,  and  joined  in  prayer 
J the  success  of  their  several  journeys. 

Our  company  now  consisted  of  Rais  bel  Cossim,  Bel 
ooden,  Sidi  Hamet,  Seid,  Sidi  Mohammed,  and  three 
uleteers,  all  armed  with  muskets,  swords,  or  daggers — - 
2 five  Bereberies  with  their  camels,  who  had  brought 
on  from  Stuka,  and  myself  and  four  shipmates.  We 
ioceeded  along  the  coast,  sometimes  on  a sand  beach, 
•w  climbing  an  almost  perpendicular  mountain  of  great 
ight,  by  a winding  kind  of  zig-zag  road  that  seemed  to 
' ve  been  cut  in  the  rock  in  many  places  by  art ; then  de- 
ending into  deep  valleys  by  this  kind  of  natural  steps ; 
te  rocks  on  our  right  for  a great  distance,  rising  nearly 
rpendicularly.  The  path  we  were  now  oblige  d to  follow, 
as  not  more  than  two  feet  wide  in  one  place,  and  on  our 
ft  it  broke  off  in  a precipice  of  some  hundred  feet  deep 

(the  sea — the  smallest  slip  of  the  mule  or  camel  would 
ive  plunged  it  and  its  rider  down  the  rocks  to  inevitable 
id  instant  death,  as  there  was  no  bush  or  other  thing  to 
.y  hold  of  by  which  a man  might  save  his  life.  Very 
trtunately  for  us,  there  had  been  no  rain  for  a considera- 
te time  previous,  so  that  the  road  was  now  dry.  Rais 
>ld  me  when  it  was  wet  it  was  never  attempted,  and  that 
tany  ratal  accidents  had  happened  there  within  his  remem- 
rance  ; though  there  was  another  road  that  led  round 
rer  the  mountains  far  within  the  country. 

One  of  these  accidents  he  said  he  would  mention.  “A 
ampany  ol  Jews,  six  in  number,  from  Santa  Cruz  for 
lorocco,  came  to  this  place  with  their  loaded  mules  in 
ie  twilight,  after  sunset ; being  very  anxious  to  get  past 
before  dark,  and  supposing  no  other  travellers  would 
pnture  to  meet  them,  or  dare  to  pass  it  in  the  night,  they 
id  not  take  the  precaution  to  look  out,  and  call  aloud 
efore  they  entered  on  it ; for  there  is  a place  built  out  or; 


216 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


each  end  of  this  dangerous  piece  of  road,  from  wher 
one  may  see  if  there  are  others  on  it : not  being  qu 
half  a mile  in  length,  a person  by  hallooing  out  can 
heard  from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  it  is  the  practice 
all  who  go  that  way,  to  give  the  signal.  A company 
Moors  had  entered  at  the  other  end,  and  going  to  war. 
Santa  Cruz  at  the  same  time,  and  they  also  supposi 
that  no  others  would  dare  to  pass  it  at  that  hour,  came 
without  the  usual  precaution.  About  half  way  over,  a' 
in  the  most  difficult  place,  the  two  parties  met : there  w 
no  possibility  of  passing  each  other,  nor  of  turning  ab'c 
to  go  back  either  way  : the  Moors  were  mounted  as  w 
as  the  Jews  : neither  party  could  retire,  nor  could  a 
one,  except  the  foremost,  get  off  of  his  mule.  The  Mot 
soon  became  outrageous,  and  threatened  to  throw  the  Je 
down  headlong  : the  Jews,  though  they  had  always  be, 
treated  like  slaves,  and  forced  to  submit  to  every  insi 
and  indignity,  yet  finding  themselves  in  this  perilous  sit 
ation,  without  the  possibility  of  retiring,  and  being  u i 
willing  to  break  their  necks  merely  to  accommodate  t 
Moors,  the  foremost  Jew  dismounted  carefully  over  t 
head  of  his  mule,  with  a stout  stick  in  his  hand  : the  Mo, 
nearest  him  did  the  same,  and  came  forward  to  atta< 
him  with  his  scimitar  : both  were  fighting  for  their  live 
as  neither  could  retreat — the  Jew’s  mule  was  first  pitch 
down  the  craggy  steep,  and  dashed  to  atoms  by  the  fall- 
the  Jew’s  stick  was  next  hacked  to  pieces  by  the  scimitai 
when  finding  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  save  his  life,  1 
seized  the  Moor  in  his  arms,  and  springing  off  the  prec 
pice,  both  were  instantly  hurled  to  destruction  : two  mo 
of  the  Jews  and  one  Moor  lost  their  lives  in  the  same  wa 
together  with  eight  mules  ; and  the  three  Jews  who  mac 
out  to  escape,  were  hunted  down  and  killed  by  the  rtl; 
tions  of  the  Moors  who  had  lost  their  lives  on  the  pas 
and  the  place  has  ever  since  been  called  “ the  Jew’s  leap. 
It  is,  indeed,  enough  to  produce  dizziness,  even  in  tl 
head  of  a sailor,  and  if  I had  been  told  the  story  beloi 
getting  on  this  frightful  ridge,  I am  not  certain  but  th; 
my  imagination  might  have  disturbed  my  faculties,  an 
rendered  me  incapable  of  proceeding  with  safety  alon 
this  perilous  path.  The  danger  over,  however,  and  tli 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


217 


Dry  finished,  vve  found  ourselves  mounting  the  first  bank 
fbm  the  sea  on  Cape  Geer.  When  we  came  on  the  height, 
the  pitch  of  the  Cape,  I rode  up  to  the  edge  of  the  pre- 
)ice  to  look  down  upon  the  tumultuous  ocean.  The 
esent  Cape  is  about  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  ap- 
;ared  to  have  been  much  shattered  and  rent  by  the  waves 
id  tempests : huge  masses  of  rocks  had  been  under  - 
ned,  broken  off,  and  tumbled  down  one  upon  another, 
(ruing  very  wild  and  disorderly  heaps  in  the  water  all 
iund  it.  I could  not  help  shuddering  at  the  sight  artd 
ind  of  the  surf  as  it  came  thundering  on,  and  burst 
linst  the  trembling  sides  of  this  rocky  Cape,  which  is 
iut  a mile  in  length,  and  is  already  undermined  in  such 
manner,  that  the  whole  road  along  which  we  passed  will 
■y  probably  soon  tumble  down  among  the  assailing  bil- 
rs.  On  our  right,  the  land  rose  gradually  like  an  in- 
led  plane,  and  was  covered  with  pebbles  and  other  round 
moth  stones  that  bore  strong  marks  of  having  been 
csed  about  and  worn  by  the  surf  on  the  sea  beach  : it 
me  thus  for  about  two  miles,  when  it  was  interrupted  by 

Ipendicular  and  overhanging  cliffs  of  craggy  and  broken 
ks,  three  or  four  hundred  feet  in  height : these  rocks, 
l the  whole  face  of  the  upper  Cape,  bore  as  strong 
crks  of  having  once  been  washed  and  beat  upon  by  the 
f:an,  as  did  the  cliff  below  us,  against  which  it  was  now 
§>hing  with  dreadful  violence.  Along  most  parts  of  the 
r lined  plane,  and  particularly  near  the  upper  cliff',  were 
aje  mounts  of  loose  sand  in  form  of  snow  drifts.  This 
*d  was  now  flying  up  from  the  beach  below,  being 
iivvn  out  from  among  the  rocks  by  the  strong  trade  winds 
itwery  low  tide,  and  almost  as  soon  as  the  dashings  of 
1 waves  among  them  had  prepared  it : this  sand,  and  in 
at  all  we  had  seen  since  we  came  to  the  cultivated  coun- 
■r,  was  the  same  in  appearance  as  that  which  we  saw  and 
csed  through  on  the  desert,  and  must  have  been  pro- 
ved and  heaped  up  by  the  same  causes.  After  passing 
1 Cape  about  one  hour’s  ride,  vve  came  to  the  high  bank 
)ia  river,  and  descending  to  its  left  shore,  we  found  its 
r.  uth  was  filled  up  with  sand  that  had  been  washed  in  by 
fi  sea,  though  the  river  was  about  half  a mile  wide  at  its 

28 


218 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


end,  and  appeared  quite  deep  : here  we  stopped  to  t; ; 
some  food,  namely,  biscuit  and  butter. 

Bel  Mooden  had  also  brought  some  dried  figs,  dal 
and  nuts.  Having  finished  our  repast,  we  were  ag 
placed  on  our  beasts,  and  proceeded  round  the  mouthf 
the  river  on  a sandy  beach,  about  one  hundred  yards  wi 
and  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  fresh  water  wit! 
and  thirty  feet  above  the  sea  water  on  the  beach  at  h: 
tide.  Our  guides  informed  me  that  this  river  was  cal 
“ el  woed  Tensha  that  it  had  formerly  been  a very  w 
and  deep  one,  and  used  to  empty  itself  into  the  sea ; t 
in  the  rainy  season  it  was  impossible  to  pass  it  without  i 
ing  twenty  miles  up  the  country  ; but  for  the  last  few  ye 
there  had  not  been  rain  enough  in  this  part  of  the  coun 
to  force  open  its  mouth. 

Having  left  the  margin  of  the  river,  we  entered  01 
plain,  and  struck  off  to  our  right  in  a direction  nearly  e; 
and  we  went  forward  as  fast  as  possible  towards  the  hi 
land.  We  had  passed  many  sanctuaries,  but  had  not  ( 
served  a single  dwelling  house,  nor  even  a tent,  since 
left  Santa  Cruz.  We  now  beheld  several  square  wal 
places,  which  answer  the  double  purpose  of  dwelling  hoi 
and  castle,  crowning  the  top  of  the  high  mountain,  wh 
appeared  very  dry  and  sterile,  mostly  composed  of  lay 
of  huge  rocks  and  very  steep,  with  a few  dry  shrubs  sc! 
tered  thinly  about  the  crevices  and  small  flat  spots 
spaces.  Approaching  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  caijl 
to  a very  deep  hollow,  apparently  formed  by  the  washii 
of  a small  stream  of  water,  assisted  by  rains  that  hi 
poured  through  it  from  time  immemorial.  Our  w 
wound  up  through  this  steep  hollow,  and  alongside  of  t 
little  brook  before  mentioned.  As  we  entered  it,  the  e 
was  delighted  with  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  bott( 
of  the  hollow  had  been  made  level  by  art,  and  was  covr 
ed  from  its  base  with  gardens,  which  rose  one  above  a| 
other  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre : they  were  kept  * 
to  a level  by  means  of  solid  stone  walls  laid  in  lime,  alt 
had  been  filled  in  with  rich  soil : the  longest  was  i : 
greater  in  extent  than  twenty  yards  by  ten.  The  sides  “ 
the  hollow  were  so  steep,  that  the  upright  walls  were  r : 
less  than  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  height  between  each  garde 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


219 


<ney  were  well  stocked  with  most  kinds  of  vegetables  cul- 
wated  in  kitchen  gardens,  and  with  melons  : gutters  were 
ariously  disposed  around  these  gardens,  to  convey  water 
Vi  every  part,  at  the  pleasure  of  the  proprietor : they  had 
Hit  rowing  on  their  sides  an  abundance  of  fig  and  date  trees, 
id  grape  vines  running  up  the  sides  of  the  rocks  ; and  a 
'it  | tie  higher  up,  hundreds  of  the  dwarf  arga  tree,  whose 
t dlo.w  fruit  contributed  to  enliven  the  prospect.  We 
ci  (ere  at  least  two  hours  in  gaining  the  summit,  when  it 

* f id  become  dark,  and  we  had  to  pass  down  the  mountain 

1 its  east  side  through  another  hollow,  though  not  a fertile 
tit  ue  ; for  here  was  no  running  water.  The  narrow  path 
j e travelled  in,  had  been  worn  into  the  limestone  rock, 
in  { the  feet  of  mules  and  horses  that  had  passed  along  it, 
) doubt,  during  the  course  of  many  centuries  ; and,  as- 
kSted  by  the  rain  water  streaming  through  it  from  above, 

) i was  in  some  places  channelled  out  to  the  depth  of  ten  or 
teen  feet,  and  just  wide  enough  for  a camel  or  mule  to 
at  tss.  In  one  place  it  became  necessary,  for  the  want  of 
fficient  room  to  get  through,  to  take  the  lading  from  tire 
ules  and  carry  it  down  by  hand.  After  descending  about 
In  ree  hours  we  came  to  a plain,  and  kept  on  in  an  eastern 
11  jrection  until  about  midnight,  when  we  approached  the 
falls  of  a small  city,  or  dwelling-place,  and  took  up  our 
idgings  near  it  on  the  flat  top  of  a long  cistern,  which 
■corded  plenty  of  water.  The  chief  men  of  the  city, 
iarmed  by  the  barking  of  their  dogs,  soon  came  out  and 
welcomed  their  visitors  by  the  well  known  Arabic  saluta- 
Dn,  “ Salerno  Alilcom , Labez,  &c. 

• They  furnished  our  company  with  a supper  of  cous- 
bo-soo,  while  I and  my  men  ate  some  dates  and  dry  figs. 

he  night  was  damp  and  cold,  and  this,  with  my  fatigues, 
mdered  it  impossible  for  me  to  sleep.  We  stayed  here 
:r  about  three  hours,  when  daylight  appearing,  (October 
e 6th,)  wre  were  again  mounted,  and  proceeded  on  our 
urney.  My  companions,  as  well  as  myself,  were  so 
eak,  being  really  worn  out,  and  completely  exhausted, 
ijat  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  they  could  be  sup- 
wted  on  the  mules.  As  daylight  increased,  we  saw  a 
limber  of  towns  or  dwellings  handsomely  enclosed  with 
igh  walls  of  stone,  cemented  with  lime  : the  land  on  the 


220 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


plain  was  divided  off  and  fenced  in  with  rough  stone  wa 
made  with  great  labour  : numerous  flocks  of  goats  w< 
feeding  on  the  oil  nut : some  herds  of  cattle,  with  a f 
old  horses,  asses,  and  camels,  were  nibbling  off  the  gre 
leaves  and  branches  of  small  shrubs,  for  the  want  of  gras 
we  also  saw  many  regularly  planted  orchards  of  fig  tree 
and  the  land  was  in  many  places  ploughed  and  ready 
receive  the  seed  barley  so  soon  as  rain  should  fall  sufficit 
to  ensure  its  vegetation. 

We  went  forward  to  the  northeastward,  and  on  rising 
hill,  we  saw  two  mountains  before  us  to  the  north,  o\ 
which  I was  informed  we  must  pass  : the  farthest  one  noi 
appeared  to  be  twenty  miles  distant.  We  soon  began 
climb  the  nearest,  and  when  we  reached  its  summit,  loo 
ing  to  the  east,  the  Atlas  was  fairly  in  view,  and  all 
lofty  peaks  covered  with  snow.  Descending  this  mou 
tain,  we  met  large  droves  of  camels,  mules,  and  assi 
laden  with  salt  and  other  merchandise,  and  driven  bj 
considerable  number  of  Moors  and  Arabs.  The  Mot 
were  easily  distinguished  by  their  dress  : they  had  eac 
besides  his  haick,  a caftan  or  close  jacket  next  his  ski 
and  the  most  of  them  had  turbans  on  their  heads.  Th 
were  armed  with  daggers,  or  scimitars,  suspended  fro 
their  necks  by  a cord  of  red  woollen  yarn  thrown  over  t 
left  shoulder  : the  scabbards  were  such  as  I have  befo 
described.  The  dagger  is  worn  outside  of  the  haick  ; 
handle  is  made  of  wood,  handsomely  wrought.  The  poi 
of  the  dagger  hooks  inward  like  a pruning  knife  : whi 
they  have  occasion  to  use  it,  they  seize  it  with  their  rig 
hand,  the  lower  side  of  the  hand  being  next  to  the  blad 
and  strike  after  raising  it  above  their  heads,  ripping  op< 
their  adversary  : they  never  attempt  to  parry  a stroke  wii 
their  daggers. 

The  valley  between  these  two  mountains  had  been  wt 
cultivated,  and  would  be  very  productive  with  seasonab 
rains,  but  at  this  time  those  dreadful  scourges,  sevei 
droughts,  and  myriads  of  locusts,  had  destroyed  almo 
every  green  thing  : even  the  leaves  of  the  trees  and  shrul 
had  not  escaped  their  devastations.  I was  informed  b 
Kais  bel  Cossim  that  we  were  now  in  the  province  of  Ha 
hah , and  that  the  locusts  had  utterly  laid  waste  the  countr 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


221 


br  the  last  six  years,  so  that  the  land  now  groaned  under 
most  grievous  famine  ; nor  could  our  company  procure 
ny  barley  or  other  food  for  their  beasts.  This  province 
lust  be  naturally  a very  strong  military  country  ; it  is 
ery  mountainous,  and  rendered  almost  inaccessible  by 
le  craggy  steeps  and  narrow  roads,  or  defiles,  through 
. i'hich  an  army  would  be  under  the  necessity  of  marching. 
M rhe  cities,  or  rather  castles,  in  which  the  inhabitants  re- 
ide,  are  built  strong  with  stone  and  lime,  and  are  fifteen 
sin  r twenty  feet  in  height,  generally  of  a quadrangular  form 
f from  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards  square,  and  the  tops 
no  rowned  with  turrets : within  these  walls  all  the  flocks 
ts  ad  herds  are  driven  every  night  for  safe  keeping.  All 
le  men  in  these  parts  are  well  armed  with  long  Moorish 
tuskets,  and  with  sabres,  or  daggers,  by  their  sides  : 
mi  lere  are  no  Arabs  dwelling  in  this  part  of  the  country,  as 
Mliey  always  live  in  tents,  and  will  not  be  confined  within 
trails  ; nor  had  we  seen  a tent  since  our  arrival  at  the 
welling  of  Sidi  Mohammed. 

The  valley  now  spread  out  to  the  right,  and  might  be 
ermed  a considerably  extensive  plain,  on  which  but  few 
astles  or  dwellings  appeared,  and  we  saw  no  river  or 
tream  of  water,  though  there  were  high  mountains  on 
|oth  sides.  The  little  herbage  that  had  sprung  up,  in 
onsequence  of  the  recent  rains,  was  destroyed  by  the 
icusts,  which  were  to  be  seen  thinly  scattered  over  the 
round,  and  rose  in  considerable  numbers  on  our  ap- 
proach, skipping  like  grasshoppers.  Rais  bel  Cossim  in- 
armed me  that  the  flights  of  locusts,  from  which  these 
ew  had  strayed,  had  gone  to  some  hitherto  more  favoured 
•art  of  the  country  to  continue  their  ravages. 

While  we  were  tranquilly  travelling  along,  I asked  Rais 
a what  manner  the  oil  was  extracted  from  the  nuts  that 
;rew  in  such  quantities  on  the  arga  tree,  which  entirely 
overed  the  sides  of  the  hills.  He  told  me  that  in  the 
:ountry  these  nuts  were  swallowed  by  the  goats,  (and  in 
act  we  saw  these  animals  picking  them  up  under  the 
rees  ;)  that  the  nut  passes  through,  after  being  deprived 
>f  its  bark,  which,  though  very  bitter,  was  highly  relished 
)y  the  goats,  and  when  voided,  the  women  and  children, 
vho  tend  them,  pick  up  the  nuts  and  put  them  into  a 


'222 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


bag,  slung  about  them  for  the  purpose,  and  carry  thei  j 
home,  where  they  crack  them  between  stones,  get  out  tl 
kernel,  and  expressing  the  oily  juice  from  them,  they  be 
it  down  in  a jar  until  it  becomes  of  a proper  consistenc  i 
when  it  is  poured  off  and  is  fit  for  use.  The  appearanc 
of  this  fruit  growing  thickly  on  the  trees,  different  in  sizi 
and  variegated  in  colour  from  green  to  red,  and  from  thj 
to  bright  vellow,  had  a pleasing  effect : the  ground  b< 
neath  the  trees  was  also  covered  with  them. 

Having  come  to  the  foot  of  the  high  mountain,  we  a: 
cended  it,  winding  up  its  steep  side  in  a zig-zag  path  ver 
difficult  of  ascent,  and  indeed  almost  impracticable.  O 
our  left  was  a deep  gully,  with  a considerable  stream  ( 
water  running  down  through  it,  like  a small  mill-stream 
it  poured  over  the  precipices,  making  a loud  roaring,  tht 
might  be  heard  at  a great  distance ; though  the  whol 
stream  seemed  to  lose  itself  entirely  in  the  sand  before 
reached  the  bottom  of  the  mountain.  The  sides  of  thi 
gully  were  shaded  by  the  arga  and  bean  tree,  and  man 
other  bushes  ; and  near  the  water  I discovered  a few  yet 
or  hemlock  bushes,  that  reminded  me  of  scenes  I ha 
been  familiar  with  in  my  own  country.  As  we  rode  nea 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  this  gully  assumed  the  appear 
ance  of  a rich  valley,  filled  with  gardens  one  above  an! 
other,  supported  by  strong  stone  walls  in  the  same  manne 
as  those  I have  already  described,  though  much  larger 
and  they  were  apparently  well  watered  by  the  stream  tha 
was  carried  around  them  in  gutters  fitted  for  that  purpose 
These  gardens  looked  as  if  they  were  well  cultivated,  ant 
stored  with  vegetables ; and  numbers  of  men  and  boy; 
were  at  work  tilling  and  dressing  them. 

On  the  highest  part  of  the  mountain  that  we  reached,  ] 
was  much  surprised  to  find  a considerable  plain  spot,  near- 
ly covered  with  stacks  of  salt,  which  stood  very  thick, 
and  must,  I think,  have  amounted  to  several  hundreds, 
To  see  marine  salt  in  such  quantities  on  the  top  of  a moun- 
tain, which  I computed  to  stand  at  least  fifteen  hundred 
feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  excited  my  wonder 
and  curiosity  ; but  we  stopped  short  of  them,  for  the  cam- 
els we  had  started  with  from  Stuka,  were  to  carry  loads  ol 
this  salt  back  ; so  that  after  Rais  had  paid  the  owners  of 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


223 


lem  for  their  trouble  and  assistance,  they  went  towards 
he  salt  heaps,  wishing  us  a prosperous  journey.  While 
Le  were  stopped  to  settle  with  them,  we  were  taken  from 
le  mules  and  seated  on  the  ground,  when  many  of  the 
nhabitants  came  near  to  have  a look  at  us,  Christian  slaves . 
if  hey  brought  with  them  a few  raw  turnips,  which  they 
istributed  among  us : they  were  the  sweetest  I had  ever 
> isted,  and  very  refreshing.  We  were  soon  placed  upon 
lie  mules  again,  and  I rode  a little  to  the  left,  in  order  to 
nd  out  in  what  way  this  great  quantity  of  salt  had  been 
rocured  and  deposited  in  this  singular  situation  ; and  on 
near  approach,  I saw  a great  number  of  salt  pans  formed 
f clay,  and  very  shallow,  into  which  water  was  conduct- 
d by  means  of  small  gutters  cut  for  the  purpose  in  the 
lay.  The  water  issues  in  considerable  quantities  from 
le  side  of  the  mountain,  in  the  northwest  part  of  the 
lain,  (which  has  been  levelled  down,  and  regulated  with 
,reat  labour,)  and  is  very  strongly  impregnated  with  salt : 
le  pans  or  basins  being  very  shallow,  the  water  is  soon 
vaporated  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  a crystallization  of 
Nceilent  salt  is  the  result.  It  is  small  grained,  and  tinged 
y the  reddish  colour  of  the  clay  of  which  the  pans  are 
irmed.  The  highest  peak  of  the  mountain  did  not  ap- 
pear to  rise  above  the  salt  spring  more  than  about  one  hun- 
red  feet.  A great  number  of  men  and  boys  were  em- 
loyed  in  raking  and  heaping  up  the  salt,  and  numbers 
i lore  in  selling  and  measuring  it  out,  and  loading  it  on 
amels,  mules,  and  asses.  Rais  bel  Cossim  informed  me 
i at  this  spring  furnished  the  greatest  proportion  of  the  salt 
tat  is  made  use  of  in  the  Moorish  dominions,  and  in 
•use  ; and  I should  estimate  the  number  of  camels,  mules, 
nd  asses  that  were  there  at  that  time  waiting  for  loads,  at 
! com  four  to  live  hundred.  We  had  met  hundreds  on  the 
oute  since  we  left  Stuka,  loaded  with  this  article,  and  I 
fterwards  saw  many  loads  of  the  same  kind  of  salt  enter 
Wogadore,  Saffy , and  Rabat. 

We  proceeded  to  the  northward  down  the  mountain, 
which  is  not  so  steep  on  its  north  as  on  its  south  side. 
Hie  country,  after  descending  it,  was  tolerably  smooth, 
vTith  much  of  the  arga  wood  flourishing  on  every  side. 

. >oon  after  dark  we  came  to  a wall  that  enclosed  a space 


224 


CART  AIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


of  ground  forty  or  fifty  yards  square  : it  was  built  of  sto: 
and  lime,  six  or  eight  feet  in  height,  with  an  open  spa' 
like  a gateway  on  its  northern  side,  through  which  \ 
entered,  and  took  up  our  lodgings  on  the  ground,  whi< 
was  very  smooth.  A walled  village  was  near  this  yard  c 
the  west,  and  on  the  north,  outside  of  both  walls,  stood 
mosque,  or  house  of  worship  : the  inhabitants  were  chan 
ing  their  evening  or  eight  o’clock  prayers  when  we  ente 
ed  the  yard ; yet  none  of  them  came  out  to  look  at  u 
their  attention  being  wholly  confined  to  their  religious  dr 
ties.  We  were  taken  from  the  mules  and  placed  neartl 
wall,  which  kept  off  the  night  wind,  and  after  we  hr 
nibbled  a little  biscuit  and  drank  some  water,  we  thankt 
God  for  his  goodness,  and  tried  to  get  a little  sltep.  T1 
wind  did  not  molest  us,  and  we  rested  until  about  mic 
night,  when  we  were  awakened  by  the  noise  occasione 
by  a company  of  men  with  loaded  camels  and  mules 
they  had  already  entered  the  yard  without  ceremony,  ti 
the  number  probably  of  thirty  men,  with  three  times  r 
many  camels,  mules,  and  asses.  .1  was  awakened  by  tli 
bellowing  of  the  camels,  as  they  were  forced  to  lie  dow 
with  their  heavy  loads.  The  men  did  not  speak  to  our; 
and  as  soon  as  they  had  tethered  their  mutes  by  tyni. 
ropes  round  their  footlock  joints,  and  fastening  them  t- 
pegs  driven  into  the  ground  for  that  purpose,  they  laii 
themselves  down  to  sleep,  wrapped  up  in  their  haicks. 

Our  whole  company  being  awake,  they  saddled  thei 
mules,  put  us  thereon,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey 
It  was  very  dark,  and  the  path  lay  through  a rough  stow 
country.  We  were  so  weak,  that  we  couid  not  sit  on  the 
mules  without  one  being  behind  to  steady  our  totterins. 
frames  : at  daylight  we  found  ourselves  near  some  substan 
iial  buildings,  and  I begged  of  Rais  to  buy  some  milk  i 
it  was  possible  he  rode  near  the  gates  and  asked  some  o 
the  inhabitants  for  milk  ; but  they  would  not  sc.l  any. 
This  to  me  was  a sore  disappointment,  as  I was  benumbed 
with  cold,  and  so  much  fatigued  that  I thought  n wouic 
be  impossible  for  me  to  ride  much  further  ; which  Rais 
observing,  said  to  me,  “ Keep  up  your  spirits,  Captain, 
only  a few  hours  longer,  and  you  will  be  in  Swearah,  if 
God  Almighty  continues  his  protection.”  I was  so  re- 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


225 


iUced  and  debilitated,  that  I could  not  support  even  good 
jews  with  any  degree  of  firmness,  and  such  was  my  agi- 
ition,  that  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  I could  keep 
n my  mule  for  some  moments  afterwards.  We  had  been 
irdj  onstantly  travelling  for  three  days  and  most  of  three 
oJights,  and  though  I concluded  we  must  be  near  Swea- 
ts ih,  I did  not  think  we  should  reach  it  before  late  in  the 
najrening.  Passing  along  a narrow  footway  between  high 
ushes,  we  came  to  a long  string  of  sand  hills  on  our  left, 
s dj  rifted  up  like  the  sand  heaps  on  the  desert,  and  along  the 
jrljoast : it  was  then  about  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
liji’hen  mounting  the  side  of  one  of  those  hills,  the  city  of 

iwearah  broke  suddenly  upon  our  view,  with  the  island 
F Mogadore  forming  a harbour,  in  which  was  a brig 
ding  at  anchor  with  English  colours  flying  — “ Take 
lurage,  Captain,”  said  the  good  Rais';  “ there  is  Swea- 
h,”  pointing  towards  the  town  ; “ and  there  is  a vessel 
o carry  you  to  your  country  and  family  : if  God  please 
pu  will  soon  see  the  noble  Wiltshire,  who  will  relieve 
bu  from  ail  your  miseries.  I thank  my  God  your  suffer- 
Igs  are  nearly  at  an  end,  and  that  I have  been  found  wor- 
ld ny  to  be  an  instrument  in  the  hands  of  the  Omnipotent 
l redeem  you  from  slavery.”  lie  next  returned  thanks 
> the  Almighty  in  Arabic,  with  all  that  fervour  and  devo- 
on,  so  peculiar  to  Mohammedans,  and  then  he  ejaculated 
Spanish,  “ May  it  have  pleased  Almighty  God  to  have' 
reserved  the  lives  of  my  wife  and  children.” 

We  now  proceeded  down  the  sand  hills  towards  the 
ty— but  very  slowly.  Sidi  Hamet  had  been  for  some 
me  missing  : he  had  gone  privately  forward,  to  be  first 
> carry  the  news  to  our  deliverer  of  our  approach ; and 
dw  Bel  Mooden  and  Sidi  Mohammed  left  us  for  a similar 
arpose,  and  made  the  best  of  their  way  towards  the  city, 
would  be  idle  ior  me  to  attempt  to  describe  the  various 
notions  of  my  mind  at  this  exquisitely  interesting  mo- 
ient : I must  leave  that  to  be  conceived  by  the  reader. 
Ve  soon  approached  the  walls  of  an  imperial  palace, 
hich  is  situated  about  two  miles  southeast  of  Swearah, 

• Mogadore.  The  walls  are  built  in  a square  of  proba- 
y one  hundred  yards  at  each  side,  and  about  twenty 
:et  in  height— they  enclose  four  small  square  houses, 

29 


226 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


built  at  the  four  corners  within,  and  which  rise  one  stor 
above  the  walls  : the  houses  have  square  roofs,  coming  1 
a point  in  the  centre,  and  handsomely  covered  with  gree 
tiles — they,  as  well  as  the  other  walls,  are  built  with  roug 
stone,  cemented  with  lime,  plastered  over  and  white 
washed. 

Near  the  western  angle  of  the  walls  we  stopped,  an 
were  taken  olf  our  mules  and  seated  on  the  green  gras;  : 
A small  stream  of  fresh  water,  running  from  the  eas 
was  spreading  over  the  sand  near  its  northern  wall,  flowin 
and  meandering  slowly  towards  the  bay  over  the  bead 
in  a number  of  small  rills.  The  water  in  the  bay  wa 
quite  smooth;  small  boats  were  moving  gently  on  it 
glassy  surface,  or  were  anchored  near  its  entrance,  proba 
bly  for  the  purpose  of  fishing:  this,  together  with  th 
sight  of  great  numbers  of  men  driving  camels,  cows,  asse: 
and  sheep,  and  riding  on  horses,  all  at  a distance,  an 
going  different  ways,  together  with  the  view  of  the  hig 
steeples  in  Mogadore,  infused  into  my  soul  a kind  c 
sublime  delight  and  a heavenly  serenity  that  is  indescriba 
ble,  and  to  which  it  had  ever  before  been  a stranger 
The  next  moment  I discovered  the  American  flag  floatin; 
over  a part  of  the  distant  city  : at  this  blessed  and  trans 
porting  sight,  the  little  blood  remaining  in  my  vein 
gushed  through  my  glowing  heart  with  wild  impetuosity 
and  seemed  to  pour  a flood  of  new  life  through  every  par 
of  my  exhausted  frame.  We  were  still  seated  on  th 
green  sward  near  the  western  Avail,  and  the  mules  tha 
brought  us  there  were  feeding  carelessly  before  us  at  i 
little  distance.  Our  deliverer,  who  had  received  news  o 
our  coming  from  Sidi  Harriet,  having  first  directed  th 
flag  of  our  country  to  be  hoisted  as  a signal,  had  mount 
cd  his  horse,  ridden  out  of  the  city,  and  came  to  th 
eastern  side  of  the  palace  walls,  where  Rais  bel  Cossin 
met  him — unknown  to  me.  I expected  him  soon,  bu 
did  not  think  he  was  so  near.  He  had  dismounted,  anc 
was  prepared  to  behold  some  of  the  most  miserable  ob 
jects  his  imagination  could  paint.  He  led  his  horse  alone 
the  south  angle  and  near  the  wall : Rais  vTas  by  his  side 
when  opening  past  the  corner,  I heard  Rais  exclaim,  ir 
Spanish,  “ Alla  estan” — “ there  they  are  — at  this  sounc 


rid 


BUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


227 


lye  looked  up  and  beheld  our  deliverer,  who  had  at  that 
Instant  turned  his  eyes  upon  us.  He  started  back  one 
tep  with  surprise.  His  blood  seemed  to  fly  from  his 
isage  for  a moment,  but  recovering  himself  a little,  ho 
lushed  forward,  and  clasping  me  to  his  breast,  he  ejacu- 
:ed,  “ Welcome  to  my  arms,  my  dear  Sir;  this  is  truly 
happy  moment.”  He  next  took  each  of  my  compan- 
ns  by  the  hand,  and  welcomed  them  to  their  liberty, 
diile  tears. trickled  down  his  manly  cheeks,  and  the  sud- 
en  rush  of  all  the  generous  and  sympathetic  feelings  of 
is  heart  nearly  choked  his  utterance  : then  raising  his  eyes 
b wards  heaven,  he  said,  “ I thank  thee,  great  Author  of 
ay  being,  for  thy  mercy  to  these  my  brothers.”  He  could 
dd  no  more  ; his  whole  frame  was  so  agitated  that  his 
trength  failed  him,  and  he  sunk  to  the  ground.  We,  on 
ur  part,  could  only  look  up  towards  heaven  in  silent  ado- 
ption, while  our  hearts  swelled  with  indescribable  sensa- 
ions  of  gratitude  and  love  to  the  all  wise,  all  powerful, 
,nd  ever  merciful  God  of  the  universe,  who  had  con- 
ucted  us  through  so  many  dreadful  scenes  of  danger  and 
offering ; had  controlled  the  passions  and  disposed  the 
earts  of  the  barbarous  Arabs  in  our  favour,  and  had 
nally  brought  us  to  the  arms  of  such  a friend.  Tears  of 
iy  streamed  from  our  eyes,  and  Rais  bel  Cossim  was  so 
huch  affected  at  this  interview,  that  in  order  to  conceal  his 
reeping,  he  hid  himself  behind  the  wall;  for  the  Moors 
i well  as  the  Arabs,  hold  the  shedding  of  tears  to  be  a 
omanish  and  degrading  weakness.  After  a short  pause., 
/hen  Mr.  Wiltshire  load  in  some  measure  recovered,  he 
aid,  “ Come,  my  friends,  let  us  go  to  the  city  ; my  house 
; already  prepared  for  your  reception.” — The  mules  were 
' I :d  up,  and  we  were  again  placed  on  them,  and  rode  off 
< I :owly  towards  Mogadore.  Mr.  Savage  and  Clark  were 
n one  mule,  and  Burns  and  Horace  on  another,  for  the 
■jurpose  of  mutually  supporting  each  other;  but  their  de- 
ility  was  such,  that  they  fell  off  on  the  beach  two  oi 
tree  times  before  they  reached  the  city — however,  it  was 
n the  soft  sand,  and  as  they  were  very  light,  they  seemed 
1 b have  received  no  material  injury  : they  were  again 
laced  on  the  mules,  and  steadied  until  our  arrival  at  the 
ates  of  Swearah,  by  Moors  walking  beside  them.  The 


228 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


gateway  was  crowded  with  Moors,  Jews,  and  negroes- 
the  news  of  our  coming  having  spread  through  the  city 
and  a curiosity  to  see  Christian  slaves,  had  brought  thei 
together  in  great  numbers ; and  the  men  and  boys  of  th 
rabble  were  only  restrained  from  committing  violence  o 
us,  by  the  gate-keepers  and  a few  soldiers,  who  voluntaril 
escorted  us  to  Mr.  Willshire’s  house,  and  in  some  mea; 
ure  kept  off  the  crowd  ; there  we  were  taken  from  or 
mules ; but  some  soldiers  coming  in  at  that  instant,  sai 
it  was  the  Bashaw’s  orders  that  we  should  appear  befor 
him  immediately,  and  we  were  constrained  to  obey  : 
was  but  a few  steps,  and  we  were  enabled  to  walk  thei 
by  supporting  one  another.  When  we  came  to  the  doo: 
we  were  ushered  into  a kind  of  entry-way,  which  serve 
as  an  audience  chamber,  by  Mr.  Willshire’s  Jew  intei 
preter,  who,  in  token  of  submission,  was  obliged  to  pu 
off  his  cap  and  slippers  before  he  could  enter.  We  wer 
ordered  to  sit  down  on  the  floor,  and  we  then  saw  befor 
us  a very  respectable  looking  Moor,  of  about  sixty  year 
of  age:  he  was  sitting  cross-legged  on  a mat  or  carpe 
that  lay  on  the  floor,  which  was  terrace  work,  drinkin 
tea  from  a small  cup — his  dress  was  the  haick.  After  hi 
had  finished  his  cup  of  tea  and  looked  at  us  a momen 
he  asked  me,  through  the  interpreter,  what  countryman 
was  ? where  my  vessel  was  wrecked  ? how  many  men 
had  in  all,  and  if  the  remainder  were  alive?  how  Ion: i 
I had  been  a slave,  and  if  the  Arab,  my  last  master,  hai! 
treated  me  kindly  ? He  wanted,  further,  to  know  hoi 
much  money  from  my  vessel  fell  into  the  hands  of  th 
Arabs,  and  what  other  cargo  she  had  on  board.  Havinj 
satisfied  his  inquiries  in  the  best  manner  I was  able,  h 
said  we  were  now  free,  and  he  would  write  to  the  empe 
ror  respecting  me  and  my  men,  and  hoped  he  would  giv 
us  leave  to  go  home  to  our  country  : he  then  dismisse< 
us.  Mr.  Wiltshire  was  with  us,  and  answered  all  th 
questions  the  Bashaw  chose  to  put  to  him,  and  then  assist 
ed  us  in  returning  to  his  house. 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


229 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

he  author  and  his  companions  are  cleansed , clothed,  and 
fed — He  becomes  delirious , but  is  again  restored  to  reason 
— The  kindness  of  Mr.  Wiltshire — Letter  from  Horatio 
Sprague,  Esq.  of  Gibraltar — Author's  refections  on 
his  past  sufferings  and  on  the  providential  chain  of  events 
that  had  ftted  him  for  enduring  them,  and  miraculously 
supported  and  restored  him  and  his  four  companions  to 
their  liberty. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Mr.  Willshire’s  house,  some 
jws  were  ready  to  shave  off  our  beards ; and  as  the  hair 
ini  f our  heads  was  also  in  a very  unpleasant  condition, 
icing  literally  filled  with  vermin,  that,  as  well  as  our 
feards,  underwent  the  operation  of  the  scissors  and  ra- 
ar  : the  hair  was  cut  off  at  least  as  close  as  the  horrible 
ate  of  our  skin  and  flesh  would  admit  of : this  may  be 
nagined,  but  it  is  absolutely  too  shocking  for  descrip- 
an.  Our  squalid  and  emaciated  frames  were  then  pu- 
;fied  with  soap  and  water,  and  our  humane  and  generous 
:iend  furnished  us  with  some  of  his  own  clothing,  after 
or  bodies,  which  were  still  covered  with  sores,  had  been 
lbbed  with  sweet  oil.  Mr.  Willshire’s  cook  had  by  this 
me  prepared  a repast,  which  consisted  of  beef  cut  into 
juare  pieces,  just  large  enough  for  a mouthful  before  it 
as  cooked  ; these  were  then  rolled  in  onions,  cut  up 
ae,  and  mixed  with  salt  and  pepper ; they  were  in  the 
;xt  place  put  on  iron  skewers  and  laid  horizontally  across 
pot  of  burning  charcoal,  and  turned  over  occasionally, 
ntil  perfectly  roasted  : this  dish  is  called  Cubbub,  and  in 
ly  opinion  far  surpasses  in  flavour  the  so  much  admired 
eef-steak  ; as  it  is  eaten  hot  from  the  skewers,  and  is 
ideed  an  excellent  mode  of  cooking  beef. — We  ate 
Daringly  of  this  delicious  food,  which  was  accompanied 
nth  some  good  wheaten  bread  and  butter,  and  followed 
y a quantity  of  exquisite  pomegranates  ; for  our  stom- 
chs  were  contracted  to  such  a degree  by  long  fastings, 
aat  they  had  lost  their  tone,  and  could  not  receive  the  usual 
llowance  for  a healthy  man. — A doctor  then  appeared  and 


230 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


administered  to  each  of  us  a dose  of  physic,  which  he  sa 
was  to  prepare  our  stomachs  for  eating.  He  was  a Je' 
who  had  been  bred  at  Moscow  in  Russia,  had  studit 
medicine  there,  and  had  since  travelled  through  German 
Italy,  and  Spain  ; he  spoke  the  Spanish  language  fluent! 
and  I was  convinced,  before  I left  Mogadore,  that  he  po 
sessed  much  medical  as  well  as  surgical  skill.  He  h; 
only  been  in  Mogadore  two  months,  and  there  was  i 
other  physician  in  that  city,  or  in  that  part  of  the  countr 
except  jugglers  or  quacks.  Good  beds  had  been  fitt 
up  for  myself  and  Mr.  Savage  in  the  same  room,  and  ; 
ter  being  welcomed  by  Mr.  John  Foxcroftand  Don  Pat 
Riva,  who  had  heard  of  our  arrival,  we  retired  to  rest,  j 

My  mind,  which  (though  my  body  was  worn  down 
a skeleton)  had  been  hitherto  strong,  and  supported  n 
through  all  my  trials,  distresses,  and  sufferings,  and  enj 
bled  me  to  encourage  and  keep  up  the  spirits  of  my  fr 
quently  despairing  fellow- sufferers,  could  no  longer  susta 
me  : my  sudden  change  of  situation  seemed  to  have  r 
laxed  the  very  springs  of  my  soul,  and  all  my  faeulti 
fell  into  the  wildest  confusion.  The  unbounded  kindnes 
the  goodness,  and  whole  attention  of  Mr.  Wiltshire,  wl 
made  use  of  all  the  soothing  language  of  which  the  mo 
affectionate  brother  ‘or  friend  is  capable,  tended  but  i 
ferment  the  tempest  that  was  gathering  in  my  brain.  1 
became  delirious— was  bereft  of  my  senses — and  for  tl 
space  of  dtree  days  knew  not  where  I was.  When  nr 
reason  returned,  I found  I had  been  constantly  attended  b 
Mr.  Wiltshire,  and  generally  kept  in  my  room,  thoug 
he  would  sometimes  persuade  me  to  walk  in  the  galler 
with  him,  and  used  every  means  in  his  power  to  restoi 
and  compose  my  bewildered  senses:  that  I had  remaine 
continually  bathed  in  tears,  and  shuddering  at  the  sight  c 
every  human  being,  fearing  I should  again  be  carried  int 
slavery.  I had  slunk  into  the  darkest  corner  of  my  room 
but  though  insensible,  I seemed  to  know  the  worth  of  nr 
friend  and  deliverer,  and  would  agree  to,  and  compl; 
with  his  advice  and  directions. 

In  the  mean  time,  this  most  estimable  and  noble  mind 
ed  young  man,  had  neither  spared  pains  nor  expense  ii 
procuring  for  us  every  comfort,  and  in  administering,  witl 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


231 


b own  hands,  night  and  day,  such  relief  and  refresh- 
rent  as  our  late  severe  sufferings  and  present  debility 
iquired.  He  had  sent  off  persons  on  mules  to  the  vicinity 
c the  city  of  Morocco,  more  than  one  hundred  miles, 
rd  procured  some  of  the  most  delicious  fruits  that  coun- 
ts can  produce,  such  as  dates,  figs,  grapes,  pomegranates, 
b.  He  gave  us  for  drirje  the  best  of  wines,  and  I again 
! gan  to  have  an  appetite  for  my  food,  which  was  prepared 
\th  the  greatest  care.  My  men  were  furnished  with 
sirts,  trowsers,  and  jackets,  and  being  fed  with  the  most 
rurishing  soups  and  other  kinds  of  fo#od,  gained  a com 
slerable  degree  of  strength.  Captain  Wallace,  of  the 
liglish  brig  Pilot,  then  being  in  the  port,  furnished  us 
vth  some  pork,  split  peas,  and  potatoes,  and  seemed  very 
fiendly.  Clark  and  Burns  were  but  the  skeletons  of  men : 
Hr.  Savage  and  Horace  were  nearly  as  much  reduced, 
tt  not  having  been  diseased  in  so  great  a degree,  they 
v re  consequently  stronger.  Many  of  my  bones  as  well 
a my  ribs,  had  been  divested  entirely,  not  only  of  flesh, 
nit  of  skin,  except  the  peri-ostrum,  and  had  appeared 
viite  and  transparent  through  their  thin  and  gristly  cover- 
ig,  like  dry  bones,  when  on  the  desert ; but  they  were 
ovv  nearly  covered  again,  though  we  still  might  with  some 
mson  be  termed  the  dry  skeletons  of  Moorish  slaves. 
L the  instance  of  Mr.  Willshire  I was  weighed,  and  fell 
sort  of  ninety  pounds,  though  my  usual  weight  for  the 
lit  ten  years  had  been  over  two  hundred  and  forty  pounds : 
t2  weight  of  my  companions  was  less  than  I dare  to  men- 
t n,  for  I apprehend  it  would  not  be  believed  that  the 
l dies  of  men  retaining  the  vital  spark,  should  not  weigh 
f'ty  pounds. 

The  sight  of  my  face  in  a glass  called  to  my  recollec- 
tin  all  the  trying  scenes  I had  passed  through  since  my 
iipwreck.  I could  contemplate  with  pleasure  and  grati- 
tde  the  power,  and  wisdom,  and  foreknowledge  of  the 
apreme  Being,  as  well  as  his  mercy  and  unbounded 
s odness.  I could  plainly  discover  that  the  train  of  events 
uich,  in  my  former  life,  I had  always  considered  as  great 
iisfortunes,  had  been  directed  by  unerring  wisdom,  and 
Id  fitted  me  for  running  the  circle  marked  out  by  the 
Omnipotent.  When  I studied  the  French  and  Spanish 


232 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


languages,  I did  it  from  expectations  of  future  gain  ir 
commercial  point  of  view.  All  the  exertions  1 had  hi 
erto  made  to  become  acquainted  with  foreign  languag 
and  to  store  my  mind  with  learning  and  a knowledge 
mankind,  had  procured  for  me  no  wealth  ; without  whi 
acquirement  a man  is  generally  considered  on  the  stage 
the  world  as  a very  insignificant  creature,  that  may 
kicked  off  or  trampled  upon  by  the  pampered  worms 
his  species,  who  sport  around  him  with  all  the  upst 
pride  of  (in  many  instances)  ill-gotten  treasure.  I h 
been  cheated  and  swindled  out  of  property  by  those  whc 
I considered  my  friends  ; yet  my  mind  was  formed  j 
friendship ; — 1 do  not  speak  of  this  in  the  way  of  boa 
ing.  My  hand  had  never  been  slack  in  relieving  the  d 
tresses  of  my  fellow  men  whenever  I had  the  power, 
the  different  countries  where  I had  been  ; but  I had  almr 
become  a stoic,  and  had  very  nearly  concluded,  that  d| 
interested  friendship  and  benevolence,  out  of  the  circle ! 
a man’s  own  family,  was  not  to  be  found  ; that  the  virt 
ous  man,  if  poor,  was  not  only  despised,  by  his  me 
fortunate  fellow  creatures,  but  forsaken  almost  by  Pro't 
dence  itself.  I now,  however,  had  positive  proof  to  til 
contrary  of  some  of  those  hasty  and  ill-founded  opinion 
and  I clearly  saw  that  I had  only  been  tutored  in  the  schc ! 
of  adversity,  in  order  that  I might  be  prepared  for  fulfi 
ing  the  purpose  for  which  I had  been  created. 

In  the  midst  of  those  reflections  I received,  by  a courij 
from  Consul  General  Simpson,  at  Tangier,  to  Mr.  Wi 
shire,  the  following  letter  : — it  speaks  the  soul  of  the  wi 
ter  and  needs  no  comment. 

Gibraltar , 1 3th  November,  1815. 

MY  DEAR  RILEY, 

1 will  not  waste  a moment  by  unnecessary  preambl 
I have  wrote  to  Mr.  Willshire,  that  your  draft  on  me  f" 
twelve  hundred  dollars,  or  more,  shall  be  duly  paid  f 
the  obtainment  of  your  liberty,  and  those  with  you.  ! 
have  sent  him  two  double  barrelled  guns  to  meet  his  pron 
ise  to  the  Moor. — In  a short  time  after  the  receipt  ol  thi 
I hope  to  have  the  happiness  to  take  you  by  the  hand  u' 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


233 


er  my  roof  again.  You  will  come  here  by  the  way  of 
"angier.  Your  assured  friend, 

Horatio  Sprague. 

My  sensations  on  reading  this  letter,  and  on  seeing  that 
xitten  by  Mr.  Sprague  to  Mr.  Willshire,  I must  leave  to 
ie  reader  to  imagine,  and  only  observe  that  my  acquaint- 
lce  with  that  gentleman  was  but  very  slight,  (of  about 
n days,)  while  I remained  at  Gibraltar,  immediately  be- 
ire  my  disaster — it  was  sufficient  for  him  to  know  his 
jllow  creatures  were  in  distress,  and  that  it  was  in  his 
ovver  to  relieve  them.  Mr.  Sprague  is  a native  of  Bos- 
in,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Massachusetts,  and  had 
itablished  himself  as  a respectable  merchant  in  Gibraltar 
5 little  before  the  breaking  out  of  the  late  war.  In  the 
irly  part  of  that  war  a number  of  American  vessels  were 
.uspatched  by  individuals  with  cargoes  of  provisions,  &c. 
r Spain  and  Portugal — these  vessels  were  navigated  un- 
utr  enemies’  licenses,  but  from  some  cause  or  other,  many 
t them  were  seized  on  the  ocean  by  British  ships  of  war, 
ad  conducted  to  Gibraltar,  where  both  the  vessels  and 
leir  cargoes  were  condemned,  and  their  crews  turned 
drift  in  the  streets  without  a cent  of  money  in  their  pock- 
»s,  and  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements.  Mr.  Gavino, 
p.e  American  consul,  would  not  act  in  their  behalf,  be- 
•jiuse  (as  he  stated)  his  functions  had  ceased  by  reason  of 
lie  war ; — when  this  humane  and  generous  gentleman  took 
|em  under  his  protection,  hired  the  hulk  of  an  old  vessel 
or  them  to  live  in,  furnished  them  with  provisions  and 
her  necessaries  and  comforts  for  the  term  of  one  whole 
ear  or  upwards,  and  in  this  manner  supported  for  the 
reater  part  of  that  time  as  many  as  one  hundred  and  fifty 
len  : tins  he  did  from  his  own  purse,  and  out  of  pure 
lihanthropy  : of  this  I was  informed  by  Mr.  Charles 
loore,  of  Philadelphia,  and  other  gentlemen  of  respecta- 
ility  and  veracity.  He  also  furnished  and  sent  a conskU 
•abie  sum  of  money  to  Algiers,  which  bought  from  hard 
bour  our  unfortunate  countrymen,  comprising  the  offi- 
;rs  and  crew  of  the  brig  — ■ — , Captain  Smith,  of  Boston, 
iio  were  made  slaves  by  that  regency  ; in  this  he  was 
listed  by  Messrs.  Charles  H.  Hali  & Co.  merchants  at 
ladiz,  and  several  other  worthy  and  respectable  Arneri- 

30 


234 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


cans  ; but  the  loss  of  the  United  States’  sloop  of  war  tlij 
Epcrvier,  when  homeward  bound,  having  on  board  all  tl 
redeemed  slaves  after  the  peace  with  Algiers,  rendered 
impossible  for  them  to  communicate  their  sense  of  grat 
tude  for  Mr.  Sprague’s  humanity.  These  facts  were  state 
to  me  by  several  respectable  individuals  in  Gibraltar,  an 
can  be  fully  authenticated. 

After  my  mind  had  been  again  tranquillized  by  a r< 
freshing  night’s  sleep,  my  reflections  returned  to  my  prov 
dential  preservation.  When  my  vessel  was  wrecked, 
was  endued  with  presence  of  mind,  judgment,  and  pri 
dence,  whereby  my  whole  crew  was  saved  in  the  first  it 
stance,  and  safely  landed.  When  I was  seized  on  aftei 
wards  by  the  Arabs,  a superior  intelligence  suddenly  sut 
gested  to  my  mind  a stratagem  by  which  my  life  wr 
saved,  though  one  of  my  unfortunate  companions  wf 
sacrificed  to  glut  the  brutal  rage  of  the  natives,  whilst  I wa 
conducted  to  the  wreck  in  safety  through  a tremendoii| 
surf  that  rolled  over  me  every  instant.  The  ways  of  Prc 
vidence  were  next  traced  out  to  my  wondering  eyes  in  th 
smoothing  down  of  the  sea,  so  that  we  were  enabled  t 
row  our  shattered  boat  out  with  safety  to  the  ocean,  an 
in  our  preservation  in  an  open  boat  amidst  violent  gales  c 
wind,  though  her  timbers  and  planks  seemed  only  to  hoi 
together  by  the  pressure  of  the  sea  acting  upon  their  oute 
side.  When  destitute  of  provisions  and  water,  worn  dow 
with  privations  and  fatigues,  we  were  again  landed  on  th 
coast,  carried  on  the  top  of  a dreadful  wave  over  the  head 
of  craggy  rocks  that  must  have  dashed  us  and  our  boat  t 
atoms  without  a particular  divine  protection.  We  werl 
next  forced  to  climb  over  the  most  formidable  precipice 
and  obstructions,  before  it  was  possible  to  arrive  on  th 
dreary  desert  above  us : these  delays  were  necessary  t< 
bring  us,  at  a proper  time,  within  sight  of  fires  kindlei 
by  Arabs,  who  had  arrived  there  that  day,  (and  who  wen 
the  first,  as  1 was  afterwards  informed,  who  had  been  then 
to  water  their  camels  within  the  last  thirty  days,)  and  whc 
were  providentially  sent  to  save  our  lives,  as  we  could  no 
have  existed  a day  longer  without  drink.  Though  mj 
skin  was  burned  off  by  the  sun’s  rays,  and  myself  giver 
as  a slave  to  those  wandering  wretches-— the  same  AJmight\ 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


235 


power  still  preserved  my  life,  endowed  me  with  intelli- 
gence to  comprehend  a language  I had  never  before  heard 
spoken,  and  enabled  me  to  make  myself  understood  by 
:hat  people,  and  in  some  degree  respected.  Sidi  Hamet 
'though  a thievish  Arab)  had  been  sent  from  the  confines 
of  the  Moorish  empire  before  I left  Gibraltar : he  was 
conducted  by  the  same  unerring  wisdom  to  my  master’s 
:ent ; his  heart  was  softened  at  the  recital  of  my  distresses, 
find  instead  of  trading  in  the  article  of  ostrich  feathers, 
eij] ['which  was  his  whole  business  there,  as  he  believed,)  he 
r|was  persuaded  by  a wretched  naked  skeleton  of  a slave, 
st I merely  retaining  the  glimmering  of  the  vital  spark,  against 
aljpis  own  judgment,  and  whilst  directly  and  strenuously 
s apposed  by  his  brother  and  partner,  who  insisted  that  if 
:ven  I told  the  truth,  and  had  a friend  in  Morocco  to  pur- 
chase me  on  my  arrival  there,  yet  my  death  must  certainly 
[,  lappen  long  before  it  was  possible  to  get  me  to  that  place  c 
Ad  yet  this  same  brother,  one  of  the  most  barbarous  of  men, 
p.  .vas  forced,  though  against  his  will,  to  agree,  and  to  lend 
he  aid  of  his  property  in  effecting  the  purchase,  and  to 
■ pxert  himself  to  support  and  to  defend  myself  and  four 
:ompanions,  through  the  desert,  whilst  all  his  schemes  for 
l [selling  and  separating  ns  had  constantly  proved  abortive. 
A Spanish  barque  had  been  destroyed  by  the  natives  on 
:he  coast  of  Suse,  north  of  Cape  Nun,  and  nineteen  men 
lad  been  either  massacred  by  the  natives,  or  were  then 

I groaning  out  a miserable  existence  in  the  worst  kind  of 
aarbarian  slaver}' — this  event  alone  had  furnished  a piece 
af  paper  on  which  I wrote  the  note,  at  a venture,  to  Mog- 
idore : my  note  fell  into  the  hands  of  a perfect  stranger, 
whose  name  I had  never  even  heard  of,  and  who  was  as 
ignorant  of  mine.  This  excellent  young  man  was  touched 
by  the  same  power  who  had  hitherto  protected  me  : he 
igreed  to  pay  the  sum  demanded  without  reflection,  though 
his  utter  ruin  might  have  been  the  consequence,  trusting 
implicitly  to  the  written  word  of  a wretched  naked  slave  ; 
?.  person  of  whom  he  had  no  knowledge,  and  who  was  then 
three  hundred  miles  distant,  and  even  out  of  the  power  of 
the  government  that  protected  him ; and  his  impatience  to 
relieve  my  distresses  was  so  great,  that  he  instantly  paid 
the  money  demanded  by  my  master,  on  his  simply  agreeing 


236  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  ITARR^TIVE. 

A 

to  stay  in  Swearah  (Mogadore)  until  vve  came  up,  bi 
without  the  power  to  keep  him  one  instant  if  he  chose  t i 
go  away  ; nor  would  he  allow  time  to  the  magnanimoi 
Moor,  who  kindly  volunteered  to  go  down  after  us,  at  th 
imminent  risk  of  his  life,  scarcely  to  take  leave  of  h 
family  : mounting  him  on  his  own  mule,  and  beggini 
him  to  hurry  on,  day  and  night,  until  he  reached  us,  an 
to  spare  neither  pains  or  expense  in  fetching  us  to  Mogei 
dore. 

I cannot  here  omit  mentioning  the  manner  in  which  Mi! 
Willshire  got  my  first  note.  Sidi  Hamet  (the  bearer  of  it 
was  one  of  those  Arabs  belonging  to  a tribe,  surname 
by  the  Moors  sons  of  lions,  on  account  of  their  uncor 
querable  spirit ; when  he  came  to  the  gate  of  Swearah,  c 
Mogadore,  he  providentially  was  met  by  Rais  bel  Cossim 
who,  though  a perfect  stranger,  asked  him,  “ From  whenc 
come  you,  son  of  a lion  ?”  Upon  which  Sidi  Harnc 
stopped,  and  made  known  his  business.  This  Moor  ws 
the  only  one  which  Mr.  Willshire  placed  confidence  in,  c 
treated  as  a friend  : he  conducted  Sidi  Hamet  to  Mr.  Will 
shire’s  house,  and  offered  to  leave  his  family,  who  w'er 
then  sick,  and  to  do  his  utmost  to  restore  me  and  my  me: 
to  liberty.  Providence  had  also  caused  us  to  be  stoppet 
at  Stuka,  where  we  had  time  to  recover,  in  part,  from  on 
illness,  and  to  gain  strength  enough  to  support  us  throug 
the  remainder  of  our  journey;  had  turned  the  contrivance 
of  Sheick  Ali  into  nothingness,  and  finally  provided  fo 
us  such  a friend  as  Mr.  Sprague  of  Gibraltar,  one  of  th 
most  feeling  and  best  of  men. 

This  providential  chain  of  events,  thus  planned  and  exe 
cuted,  even  against  the  will  of  the  principal  agents  em 
ployed,  filled  my  mind  with  unutterable  thankfulness  am 
wonder  at  the  wisdom,  the  goodness,  and  the  mercy  o 
God  towards  me ; and  the  emotions  which  these  reflec 
lions  excited,  kept  me  almost  constantly  bathed  in  tear; 
for  the  greatest  part  of  a month.  When  I retired  to  rest 
and  sleep  had  closed  my  eyes,  my  mind  still  retaining  the 
strong  impression  of  my  past  sufferings,  made  them  the 
subjects  of  my  dreams.  I used  to  rise  in  my  sleep,  and 
think  I was  driving  camels  up  and  down  the  sandy  hills 
near  the  desert,  or  along  the  craggy  steeps  of  Morocco 


SUFFERINGS  IN  AFRICA. 


237 


beying  my  master’s  orders  in  putting  on  the  fetters,  or 
eckets,  on  the  legs  and  knees  of  his  camels,  and  in  the 
tidst  of  my  agonizing  toils  and  heart-sickening  anxieties, 
hile  groping  about  my  room,  I would  hit  my  head  against 
imething,  which  would  startle  and  awTaken  me  : then  I 
ould  throw  myself  on  my  bed  again  to  sleep,  and  dream, 
bid  act  over  similar  scenes.  Fearing  I should  get  out  of 
1 by  chamber  and  injure  myself  in  my  sleep,  I always  lock- 
<1  the  door,  and  hid  the  key  before  I went  to  bed.  There 
i.  :as  a grating  to  the  windows  of  the  apartments  I slept  in, 
of  fid  I often  awoke  and  found  myself  trying  to  get  out.  My 
am  fiind  at  length  became  more  composed  and  serene  as  my 
icc  Irength  increased,  and  by  the  first  of  December  I was 
fi,  ole  to  ride  out,  and  to  walk  about  the  city.  Mr.  Will- 
lire,  whose  whole  attention  had  been  shown  to  me  and 
y companions,  tried  every  means  to  divert  my  mind  from 
e subject  of  my  reflections,  and  would  ride  out  with  me 
> a garden  two  miles  out  of  the  city,  accompanied  by  a 
id,  loor,  where  we  passed  away  many  pleasant  hours,  which 
fere  endeared  by  every  feeling  and  sentiment  of  gratitude 
id  esteem  on  the  one  part,  and  of  generous  sympathy  and 
ffi  bd-like  benevolence  on  the  other, 
i In  this  garden  stood  a venerable  fig  tree,  whose  body 
bid  boughs  were  covered  with  the  names,  and  initials  of 
|ie  names,  of  almost  all  the  Europeans  and  Americans 
:ho  had  visited  Mogadore,  carved  out  with  knives  in  the 
lick  bark,  accompanied  with  the  dates  of  their  several 
■ isits,  &c.  This  was  a kind  of  monument  I delighted  to 
Ixamine ; it  seemed  to  say  that  Mogadore  was  once  a flour- 
hing  city,  when  its  commerce  was  fostered  by  the  Moor- 
h government ; but  now,  that  superstition,  fanaticism, 
id  tyranny  bear  sway,  they  have  swept  away,  with  their 
Jernicious  breath,  the  whole  wealth  of  its  once  industri- 
us  and  highly  favoured  inhabitants ; — have  driven  the  for- 
igner  from  their  shores,  and  it  seems  as  if  the  curse  of 
leaven  had  fallen  on  the  whole  land,  for  in  spite  of  all  the 
xertions  of  its  cultivators  and  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  se~ 
ere  droughts,  and  the  ravages  of  the  locusts,  have  fre- 
uently  caused  a famine  in  that  country,  from  whence 
'heat  was  exported  in  immense  quantities  but  a few  years 
ast  for  Spain  and  Portugal,  at  half  a dollar  per  bushel. 


238 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


Not  a single  bushel  had  been  shipped  for  some  years  pa  l, 
and  at  this  time  none  was  to  be  had  at  any  price,  exec 
now  and  then  a few  bags,  brought  from  the  province  ’ 
Duquella,  which  could  only  be  purchased  by  the  m<  ;| 
wealthy  : the  others  were  provided  with  scanty  portions  | 
barley,  of  which  they  made  their  cous-koo-soo. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  author'1  s motives  for  requesting  of  and  writing  dou 
his  former  master'' s narrative  of  Travels  on  the  Test 
ivheji  in  Mogadore,  together  with  Sidi  Hamel’s  narrati 
of  a journey  across  the  great  Desert  to  Tombuctoo,  a 1 
back  again  to  IVidnoon , with  a caravan. 

From  the  time  I had  a prospect  of  being  redeemed  fro! 
slavery,  I had  determined  (if  that  should  ever  happen) 
write  an  account  of  our  sufferings,  which  I considers 
greater  than  had  ever  fallen  to  the  lot  of  man,  and  also 
embody  such  observations  as  I had  been  enabled  to  mail 
while  a slave,  in  travelling  the  great  desert,  &c.  &c.  f 
the  satisfaction  of  my  family  and  the  friends  of  my  fello 
sufferers.  My  late  master  was  yet  in  Mogadore,  for  ] 
remained  in  the  house  of  my  deliverer  about  two  wee)!: 
after  our  arrival,  and  he  now  mentioned  to  me  that  he  arj 
his  brother  had  been  three  times  to  Tombuctoo  (as  he  hd; 
before  informed  Mr.  Willshire)  with  caravans,  and  h; 
crossed  the  desert  in  almost  every  direction.  I felt  inte 
ested  in  making  every  inquiry  that  could  suggest  itself 
my  mind  respecting  the  face  and  the  extent  of  the  dese 
and  the  countries  south  of  it ; and  although  I was  convii 
ced,  by  my  own  observations,  that  both  he  and  his  brothe 
probably  in  common  with  the  Arabs  of  the  desert,  kne 
the  courses  they  steered,  notwithstanding  they  had  r 
compass  or  any  other  instrument  to  direct  them  in  the 
journeys,  yet  wishing  to  be  fully  satisfied  in  this  partici 
lar,  I took  them  up  upon  the  roof  of  the  house  (whic 
was  flat  and  terraced  with  stones  laid  in  lime  cement,  an 
smooth  like  a floor)  one  clear  evening,  and  then  told  thei 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


239 


tat  I wanted  to  know  by  what  means  they  were  enabled 
i find  their  way  across  the  trackless  desert.  Sidi  Hamet 
iimediately  pointed  out  to  me  the  north  or  polar  star, 
ad  the  great  bear,  and  told  me  the  Arabic  names  of  the 
j incipal  fixed  stars,  as  well  as  of  the  planets,  then  visible 
i the  firmament,  and  his  manner  of  steering  and  reckon - 
ig  time  by  the  means  of  them.  His  correct  observations 
pi  the  stars,  perfectly  astonished  me : he  appeared  to  be 
inch  better  acquainted  with  the  motions  of  the  heavenly 
>dies  than  I was,  who  had  made  it  my  study  for  a great 
lany  years,  and  navigated  to  many  parts  of  the  globe  by 
leir  assistance.  To  convince  me  that  he  knew  the  cardi- 
il  points,  he  laid  two  small  sticks  across  at  right  angles, 
« ie  pointing  directly  towards  the  polar  star— he  next  placed 
7o  others  across,  dividing  the  circle  into  eighths,  and 
en  in  like  manner  into  sixteenths,  so  that  I was  satisfied 
: knew  the  requisite  divisions  of  the  compass : and  on 
e next  day  I requested  him  to  give  me  a narrative  of  his 
urneyings  on,  and  across  the  desert,  with  which  he  very 
iadily  complied,  and  related  as  follows  ; — while  I sat  in 
fy  room  with  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  and  noted  it  down, 

1’iving  the  Moor  Bel  Mooclen  to  interpret  and  explain  to 
e in  Spanish  such  parts  of  the  narrative  as  I did  not  per- 
ctly  comprehend  in  Arabic.  I give  it  to  the  reader  as 
:arly  as  possible  in  the  words  of  the  narrator,  and  do  not 
)ld  myself  responsible  for  Sidi  Hamet’s  correctness,  or 
is  veracity,  though  for  my  own  part  1 have  no  doubt  he 
leant  to,  and  did  tell  the  truth  as  near  as  his  recollection 
rved  him  ; and  as  he  had  a retentive  memory,  and  the 
icidents  related  were  calculated  to  impress  themselves 
rongly  on  his  intelligent  mind,  I have  no  doubt  that  his 
hole  narrative  is  substantially  true. 

SECTION  I. 

di  Hamet’s  narrative  of  a journey  from  Widnoon  across  the  great. 
Desert  to  Tombuctoo,  and  back  again  to  Widnoon. 

“The  first  time  I set  out  to  cross  the  great  desert,  was 
■veral  years  ago,  (about  nine  or  ten,)  being  in  the  vicirsi- 
of  Widnoon,  where  I had  the  year  before  been  married 
> the  daughter  of  Sheick  Ali,  (a  beautiful  woman,  who 
now  my  wife,  and  has  two  fine  boys  and  one  girl.)  I 


240 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


with  my  brother  Seid,  joined  the  caravan  at  Widnoon,  1 
the  advice  of  Sheick  Aii : we  had  four  camels  loaded  wi 
haicks  and  some  other  goods.  The  whole  caravan  cos 
sisted  of  about  three  thousand  camels  and  eight  hundr 
men,  with  goods  of  almost  every  kind  that  are  sold  | 
Morocco.  The  men  were  all  armed  with  good  muske 
and  scimitars,  and  the  whole  under  the  command  of  Shei  j 
ben  Soleyman  of  Waldeleim,  ( Woled  Deleim  on  the  maj 
with  four  competent  guides.  We  set  out  from  Widnoi 
in  Suse,  which  is  a great  place  of  trade,  late  in  the  fall 
the  year,  and  travelled  six  days  to  the  west,  when  we  car 
to  the  last  mountain — there  we  stopped  ten  days,  and  j! 
our  camels  feed  on  the  bushes,  while  half  the  men  we! 
employed  in  getting  wood  from  the  mountain,  and  burnii 
it  into  charcoal,  which  we  put  into  bags,  as  it  was  ligl 
and  laid  it  on  the  camels  over  the  other  goods  ; then  settii 
off  for  the  desert,  we  mounted  upon  its  level,  which  is 
great  deal  higher  than  the  country  near  it  to  the  north,  ai 
travelled  four  days  on  the  hard  level ; we  then  pass* 
amongst  the  high  sand  hills,  which  you  saw  when  weave 
coming  up,  in  order  that  we  might  keep  along  by  the  gre 
sea,  so  as  to  be  sure  of  finding  water  : #e  travelled  thruus 
and  among  these  great  mountains  of  sand,  which  we! 
then  very  bad  to  pass,  because  the  wind  blew  so  hard  v 
could  scarcely  keep  together,  being  almost  covered  up  l 
the  flying  sand  : it  took  us  six  days  to  get  through  then1 
after  which  the  ground  was  smooth,  anti  almost  as  hard 
the  floor  of  a house,  for  ten  days  more,  when  we  came 
a watering  place,  called  Biblah;  there  we  watered  01 
camels,  for  they  were  very  thirsty,  and  eight  of  them  hi 
died  and  served  us  for  food.  We  stopped  at  that  great  w< 
seven  days,  and  afterwards  kept  on  our  journey  to  the  S.V 
twenty  days,  to  another  well,  called  Kibir  Jibl,  but  the 
was  no  water  in  it,  and  we  were  obliged  to  go  six  day 
journey  to  the  sea  coast,  where  there  was  a weil  close 
the  sea,  the  water  of  which  well  was  very  black  and  sail 
here  we  were  forced  to  unload  the  camels,  and  get  the  ! 
down  the  bank  to  the  water,  and  after  drinking,  they  yitli 
ed  us  some  milk,  which  had  been  almost  dried  up  before 
we  found,  however,  nothing  for  them  to  feed  on,  and  he 
been  obliged  to  give  them  of  the  coals  to  eat  once  a ck 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


241 


or  many  days : this  kept  them  alive,  but  it  made  their 
lilk  almost  as  black  as  the  coals  themselves  ; yet  it  was 
ood,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  it.  It  took  up  six  days  to 
rater  the  whole  of  them,  when  we  set  out  again  and 
avelled  near  the  sea,  where  we  found  wells  about  every 
n days,  like  the  one  we  had  already  visited,  but  very  few 
been  leaves  on  the  little  bushes,  in  the  few  small  valleys 
e saw  ; for  no  rain  had  fallen  for  a great  while  on  that 
jirt  of  the  desert. 

| “ After  a journey  of  four  moons,  we  came  to  the  south 
flirt  of  the  desert,  and  went  down  into  the  country  of 
, budan,  where  we  found  a little  stream  of  good  running 
>ater,  and  some  bushes,  and  grass,  and  a very  large  tribe 
t Bessebes  Arabs,  (Libdessebas  on  the  map,)  who  had 
mty  of  barley  and  maize  or  Indian  corn,  of  which  we 
i ught  some  and  made  bread,  and  stopped  here  one  moon. 

e lost  on  the  desert  more  than  three  hundred  camels, 
yiich  died  of  fatigue,  and  the  want  of  water  and  food, 
t not  one  man.  All  the  tribes  of  Arabs  we  came  near, 
fe)k  their  stuff  on  their  camels,  and  rode  away  as  fast  as 
ny  could,  so  as  not  to  be  robbed,  and  we  did  not  find 
ay  party  strong  enough  to  attack  us,  although  we  saw  a 
bat  many  tribes,  but  they  were  very  poor  on  the  Zaha- 
Ff  i,  or  great  desert.”  I then  asked  him  how  the  face  of 
tl:  desert  looked  in  general,  as  he  passed  over  it,  taking 

E!  whole  together,  or  if  there  was  any  material  difference 
different  parts  of  it,  near  the  sea  coast  ? to  which  he 
iwered  : — 

The  whole  extent  of  the  desert  near  the  sea  coast,  is 
lie  that  we  came  over  in  bringing  you  up  here,  except 
none  place,  where  we  travelled  for  nearly  one  moon  with- 
at  meeting  with  so  much  as  a valley  with  green  bushes 
u it  for  the  camels  to  feed  on  : the  whole  is  a trackless 
r.ste.  Close  by  the  sea  we  were  obliged  to  pass  moun- 
* is  of  sand  that  was  blown  up  from  the  shore  before  the 
ud,  but  the  guides  always  went  before  us,  to  show' 

•\  ich  way  the  caravan  must  go,  and  to  find  a place  to  stop 
a Our  camels  had  eaten  up  all  the  coals  we  had  laid  up* 
o them  before  we  got  off  the  desert,  and  two  of  them 
id  died,  so  that  my  brother  and  I had  only  two  remain- 
ir , but  we  kept  all  our  goods.  After  we  had  rested  one 

31 


242 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


moon,  and  got  our  camels  recruited,  we  set  oft'  to  the  ea 
on  the  border  of  the  desert,  close  by  the  low  country,  wil 
mountains  in  sight  to  the  south,  most  of  the  way,  and  3 
two  moons  more  we  came  near  Tombuctoo,  where  vi 
stopped  in  a deep  valley  with  the  caravan,  and  went  evei 
day  close  to  the  strong  walls  of  the  city  with  our  gooc 
(but  without  our  guns)  to  trade  them  off  with  the  negroe 
who  had  gum,  and  gold  rings,  and  gold  powder,  ar 
great  teeth,  such  as  are  sold  in  Swearah,  (i.  e.  elephant 
teeth,)  and  slaves,  and  fine  turbans  : they  had  plenty 
cows,  and  asses,  and  a few  sheep,  and  barley,  corn,  ai 
rice  : but  the  little  river  that  runs  close  to  the  wall  on  tl 
west,  was  quite  dry,  and  all  the  people  in  the  city  we 
obliged  to  fetch  water  for  themselves  to  drink,  with  asse 
from  the  great  river  south  of  the  city,  (about  one  horn 
ride  on  a camel,)  and  we  were  forced  to  go  there  to  wat 
our  camels,  and  get  our  drink. 

“ After  staying  near  Tombuctoo  one  moon  and  a ha 
the  season  being  far  advanced,  we  set  out  again  for  Wi 
noon.  I had  not  been  in  the  city  all  the  time  we  stopp< 
here,  because  I was  chosen  captain  of  two  hundred  m 
that  kept  guard  all  the  time  about  the  caravan,  to  keep  < 
the  thievish  Arabs  and  the  bands  of  negroes  that  we 
hovering  around  us  to  carry  oft'  our  camels,  if  any  of  the 
strayed  away  : but  we  lost  only  twenty  during  our  whc 
stay  at  Tombuctoo,  and  the  Sheick  gave  me  for  my  tro  1 
ble  a fine  young  negro  girl  slave,  which  I carried  hor 
with  me,  and  she  now  lives  with  my  wife.  We  set  o 
for  home  from  Tombuctoo,  in  the  month  of  Rhamada 
after  the  feast,  and  went  back  by  the  same  route  we  h 1 
come — that  is  to  say,  we  went  first  to  the  west  one  moc . 
along  the  border  of  the  desert.  We  durst  not  take  ai 
thing  without  paying  for  it,  because  we  were  afraid  of  t 
inhabitants,  who  were  a mixture  of  Arabs  and  negroe 
and  all  of  them  Mohammedans,  but  very  bad  men  : th 
had  also  many  white  men  slaves.  I saw  sixteen  or  eighte 
myself,  and  a great  many  blacks.  These  true  believe 
have  very  fine  horses,  and  they  go  south  to  the  country 
the  rivers,  and  there  they  attack  and  take  towns,  and  brii; 
away  all  the  negroes  for  slaves,  if  they  will  not  believe  < 
the  prophet  of  God ; and  carry  oft-  all  their  cattle,  rio 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


243 


nd  corn,  and  burn  their  houses ; but  if  they  will  adopt 
le  true  faith,  they  are  then  exempt  from  slavery,  and 
leir  houses  are  spared,  upon  their  surrendering  up  one 
alf  of  their  cattle,  and  half  of  their  rice  and  corn ; be- 
ause,  they  say,  God  has  delivered  their  enemies  into  their 
ands.  The  negroes  live  in  small  towns,  fenced  in  with 
;eds  or  bushes,  and  sometimes  with  stones,  but  the  Arabs 
ve  only  in  tents,  and  can  move  off  in  a minute  on  their 
arses,  whilst  their  wives  and  children  ride  on  camels  and 
;ses.  Before  we  struck  off  N.  W.  on  the  desert  for  the 
pa  coast,  we  stopped  in  the  hill  country  and  fatted  our 
imels,  and  burned  wood  to  make  charcoal  to  carry  with 
5 : we  were  encamped  on  the  bank  of  a little  river,  one 
uy’s  journey  from  a large  town  of  negroes,  named  Jathroiu* 
did  not  go  to  it,  but  the  Sheick  went  and  bought  some 
orn  and  barley,  and  forty  oxen  for  our  provisions. 

“ After  wc  had  prepared  our  coals,  and  laid  in  our  pro- 
,,  Tsions,  we  went  up  on  to  the  level  desert,  and  set  off  to 
te  N.  W.  and  in  three  moons  and  a half  more  we  reached 
ffidnoon  again,  having  been  gone  almost  a year  and  a 
Ilf.  We  had  lost  about  five  hundred  camels,  that  either 
led,  or  were  killed  to  give  us  meat ; and  while  we  stay- 
« Tombuctoo,  and  were  coming  home,  thirty-four  of 
c r men  had  died,  and  we  lost  eighty  slaves.”  I asked 
ha  what  were  the  goods  they  carried  down  at  that  time  ? 
I answered 

“ We  had  about  one  hundred  camels  loaded  with  iron 
ad  knives,  and  two  hundred  with  salt ; all  the  others 
cvied  haicks,  and  blue  and  white  cloth,  and  amber,  and 
toacco,  and  silk  handkerchiefs,  and  chilly  weed , and 
dees,  and  a great  many  other  articles.  Seid  and  myself 
fed  lost  two  of  our  camels,  but  had  got  two  negro  slaves, 
ad  some  gold  dust,  worth  six  camels,  and  ornaments  for 
c r wives  ; but  Sheick  Ali  was  not  satisfied  because  I did 
nt  give  him  two  slaves  ; so  that  he  made  war  against  me, 
ad  battered  down  my  town  which  I built,  (it  was  but  a 
s all  one,)  and  took  away  all  I had,  together  with  my 
we,  because  he  said  I was  a bad  man,  and  he  was  stronger 
ti  n me  : I myself,  however,  escaped,  and  after  one  year 
fsked  him  for  my  wife  again,  and  he  gave  her  to  me 
c :h  all  he  had  taken,  for  he  loved  his  daughter  : but  I 


244 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


had  no  house,  so  I removed  into  the  sultan’s  dominion 
near  the  city  of  Morocco,  close  by  the  Atlas  mountain  j 
and  lived  there  with  my  father  and  brothers  two  year  j 
without  going  forth  to  trade.” 

SECTION  II. 

Sidi  Hamel  sets  out  on  another  journey  for  Tombuctoo — The  carav,  i 
is  mostly  destroyed  for  want  of  mater , by  drifting  sand , and 
mutiny , &c. — The  few  that  escape  get  to  the  south  of  the  Desert. 

u About  that  time  one  of  our  party,  when  we  first  we  ;i 
to  Tombuctoo,  named  bel  Moese,  came  to  see  me — 1 
was  going  to  join  the  caravan  at  Widnoon  again,  and  pe 
suaded  Seid  and  me  to  go  with  him ; so  we  bought  eig i 
camels  between  us,  and  sold  off  our  cattle  and  sheep,  ai 
bought  goods  and  powder,  and  went  with  him  to  Wi 
noon,  and  joined  the  caravan.  Sheick  Ali  came  to  me 
me  like  a friend,  and  gave  me  two  camels  laden  with  ba 
ley,  and  wished  me  a safe  journey.  The  Sheick  who  w ' 
chosen  by  all  the  people  to  command  the  caravan,  w 
named  Sidi  Ishrel ; he  was  the  friend  of  Sidi  Ishem,  \vl 
owned  almost  one-half  of  the  whole  caravan,  and  we  s 
out  from  Widnoon  with  about  four  thousand  camels,  ai 
more  than  one  thousand  men,  all  well  armed.  We  la  \ 
in  an  abundant  store  of  barley,  and  had  a great  man 
milch  camels,  and  it  was  determined  to  go  south  acroi 
the  desert,  nearly  on  a straight  course  for  Tombuctoo,  1 1 
the  way  the  great  caravans  generally  travelled : thous  ■ 
there  had  been  several  of  them  destroyed  on  that  rout; 
that  is  to  say,  one  within  every  ten  or  twelve  years.  \1 
went  to  the  south,  around  the  bottom  of  the  great  At! 
mountains,  six  days’ journey ; then  we  stopped  close  b 
it,  and  cut  wood  and  burned  coals  for  the  camels,  for  tl 
caravans  never  attempt  to  cross  the  desert  without  this  an 
cle  : four  hundred  camels  out  of  the  number  were  load< 
with  provisions  and  water  for  the  journey,  and  after  havii 
rested  ten  days,  and  given  the  camels  plenty  of  drink,  v 
went  up  on  the  desert  and  steered  off  southeasterly.- 
We  travelled  along,  and  met  with  no  sand  for  fifteen  day; 
it  was  all  a smooth  surface,  baked  together  so  hard  that 
loaded  camel  could  not  make  a track  on  it  to  be  seen  : v 
saw  no  tracks  to  guide  us,  and  kept  our  course  by  t! 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


245 


ars,  and  sun,  and  moon.  We  found  only  one  spot  in 
1 that  time  where  our  camels  could  satisfy  their  appetites 

!y  eating  the  shrubs  in  a shallow  valley,  but  the  great 
ell  in  it  was  filled  up  with  stones  and  sand,  so  we  could 
rocure  no  water  there  ; at  the  end  of  fifteen  days,  how- 
ver,  we  came  to  a very  fine  deep  valley,  with  twenty 
ells  in  it ; but  we  found  water  in  only  six  of  them,  be- 
iiuse  the  desert  was  very  dry  : here  we  watered  all  our 
tmels,  and  replenished  our  bottles  or  skins,  and  having 
;tii  listed  seven  days,  we  departed  for  the  southeastward, 
ieJ  jur  camels  being  well  filled  with  leaves  and  thorn  bushes, 
id!  “ We  travelled  along  three  days  on  the  hard  sand,  and 
len  arrived  among  innumerable  drifts  of  fine  loose  sand  ; 
ot  such  coarse  sand  as  you  saw  near  the  sea  ; it  was  as 
ne  as  the  dust  on  a path,  or  in  a house,  and  the  camels’ 
et  sunk  in  it  every  step  up  to  their  knees:  after  travelling 
nongst  this  sand  (which  in  the  day-time  was  almost  as 
ot  as  coals  of  fire)  six  days,  there  began  to  blow  a fierce 
find  from  the  southeast,  called  the  wind  of  the  desert, 
ringing  death  and  destruction  with  it : we  could  not  ad- 
ance  nor  retreat,  so  we  took  the  loading  from  oft  our 
amels,  and  piled  it  in  one  great  heap,  and  made  the 
amels  lie  down.  The  dust  flew  so  thick  that  we  could 
ot  see  each  other  nor  our  camels,  and  were  scarcely  able 
p breathe — so  we  laid  down  with  our  faces  in  the  dust, 
ad  cried  aloud  with  one  voice  to  God — ‘ Great  and  mer- 
iful  God,  spare  our  lives  !’  but  the  wind  blew  dreadfully 
ir  the  space  of  two  days,  and  we  were  obliged  to  move 
urselves  whenever  the  sand  got  so  heavy  on  us  that  it  shut 
ut  all  the  air,  and  prevented  us  from  breathing  ; but  at 
:ngth  it  pleased  the  most  High  to  hear  our  supplications  : 
ae  wind  ceased  to  blow  ; all  was  still  again,  and  we 
rawled  out  of  the  sand  that  had  buried  us  for  so  long  a 
ime,  but  not  all,  for  when  the  company  was  numbered, 
hree  hundred  were  missing — all  that  were  left  having  join- 
d in  thanks  to  God  for  his  mercy  in  sparing  our  lives; — 
re  then  proceeded  to  dig  out  the  camels  from  the  sand 
hat  had  buried  their  bodies,  which,  together  with  the  re- 
oading  of  them,  took  us  two  days.  About  two  hundred 
>f  them  were  dead — there  was  no  green  thing  to  be  seen, 
tnd  we  were  obliged  to  give  the  camels  a little  water  from 


246 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


the  skins,  to  wash  their  parched  throats  with,  and  soro 
charcoal  to  eat : then  we  kept  on  twenty-four  days  as  fa: 
as  we  could  through  the  dry,  deep,  and  hot  sand,  withoi 
finding  any  green  bushes  worth  noticing  for  our  camels  t 
eat,  when  we  came  to  a famous  valley  and  watering  place 
called  Haherah.  All  our  camels  were  almost  expiring 
and  could  not  carry  the  whole  of  their  loads  ; so  we  thre' 
away  a great  deal  of  the  salt  before  we  got  to  Halieral 
where  we  intended  to  stop  twenty  days  to  recruit  our  beast: 
but  who  can  conceive  our  disappointment  and  distres; 
when  we  found  there  was  no  water  in  any  of  the  wells  < 
this  great  valley : not  one  drop  of  rain  had  fallen  there  fc 
the  last  year.  The  caravan,  that  amounted  to  upwards  c 
one  thousand  men  and  four  thousand  camels  when  we  sc 
out,  was  already  reduced  to  about  six  hundred  men,  am 
thirty-five  hundred  camels.  The  authority  of  Sheick  Ishrt 
could  now  scarcely  restrain  those  almost  desperate  men 
every  one  was  eager  to  save  his  own  life  and  property,  am 
separately  sought  the  means  of  relief  by  running  about  th 
valley  in  a desultory  manner,  looking  for  water  ; this  dis 
order  continued  for  two  days,  when  being  convinced  tha 
nothing  could  be  done  without  union,  they  became  obe  I 
dient,  and  joined  together  in  great  numbers  in  digging  ou 
the  different  wells.  After  digging  five  days  without  tht 
smallest  sign  of  water,  all  subordination  was  entirely  at  ar 
end.  The  Sheick,  who  was  a wise  and  a prudent  man, 
advised  and  insisted  that  all  the  camels  should  be  killed 
but  three  hundred,  so  that  the  little  water  found  in  them, 
together  with  their  blood  might  keep  the  rest  alive,  as  well 
as  all  the  men,  until,  by  the  aid  of  Providence,  they  should 
reach  some  place  where  they  could  find  water;  but  the 
company  would  not  hearken  to  this  advice,  though  the  best 
that  could  possibly  be  given  ; no  one  being  willing  to  have 
his  own  property  sacrificed.  Sheick  Ishrel,  however,  di- 
rected thirty  of  the  oldest  and  most  judicious  men  to  pick 
out  the  three  hundred  camels  that  were  to  be  spared,  who 
accordingly  selected  the  most  vigorous  ; but  when  they 
began  to  kill  the  others,  a most  furious  quarrel  and  horrible 
battle  commenced.  The  Sheick,  though  a man  of  God, 
was  killed  in  a moment — two  or  three  hundred  more  were 
butchered  by  each  other  in  the  course  of  that  dreadful 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AERICA.- 


247 


cy  ; and  the  blood  of  the  slain  was  drank  to  allay  the  thirst 
c those  who  shed  it.  Seid  was  badly  wounded  with  a 
dgger  in  his  arm.  About  five  hundred  camels  were  killed 
tjis  day  ; and  the  others  drank  the  water  from  their  bodies 
j d also  their  blood. 

“ Fearing  there  would  be  no  end  to  this  bloody  conflict 
util  all  had  perished,  and  as  I had  been  a captain  in  the 
(her  caravan,  and  knew  how  to  steer  a course  on  the 
esert ; and  as  both  Seid  and  myself  were  very  strong  men, 

, Ip  killed  four  out  of  six  of  our  own  camels  that  remained, 

S;  the  first  part  of  the  night,  and  gave  their  water  and  blood 
t the  other  two  : we  saved  a small  package  of  goods,  and 
smc  barley,  and  some  meat,  and  persuaded  thirty  of  our 
lends  privately  to  do  as  we  had  done,  and  join  us,  for  we 
leant  to  set  off  that  night.  This  was  agreed  on,  for  to 
say  there  was  certain  death,  and  to  go  back  was  no  less 
s.  We  were  all  ready  about  midnight,  and  without  making 
'i.y  noise,  we  moved  off  with  our  company  of  thirty  men 
£ d thirty-two  camels.  The  night  was  very  cloudy  and 
<rk,  and  it  thundered  at  a distance,  as  if  the  Almighty 
tas  angry  with  us  for  fighting  together  ; but  there  was  no 
i in.  We  went  towards  the  southwest,  in  the  hope  of 
iaching  Tish/ah,  another  watering  place,  before  our  camels 
<ed  : the  desert  was  dry  and  hard,  and  as  we  went  along, 
'e  found  only  now  and  then  a little  hollow,  with  a few 
] ickly  shrubs  in  it : these  the  camels  devoured  as  we 
used  among  them ; but  many  died,  so  that  on  the  twelfth 
uy  we  had  only  eighteen  camels  left ; when  the  great  God 
:.ved  our  lives  by  sending  a tempest  of  rain,  but  he  thun- 
ered  so  as  to  make  the  whole  earth  tremble,  because  of 
ar  sins,  and  we  all  fell  upon  our  faces  and  implored  his 
irgiveness.  The  rain  that  fell  upon  the  ground  gave 
lenty  of  water  to  our  camels,  and  we  filled  thirty  skins 
ith  it ; when  we  steered  to  the  south  towards  the  borders 
f the  desert.  Nine  of  our  company  had  died,  and  many 
f our  camels,  before  we  went  down  from  the  desert  to 
le  cultivated  land,  and  we  then  made  to  the  south  towards 
little  river  of  fresh  water,  to  which  some  Arabs  whom 
re  met  with  directed  us,  after  they  had  first  given  us  some 
ce  and  some  milk,  for  all  our  milch  camels  had  died  on 
le  desert. 


248 


CAPTAIN  PILE  VS  NARRATIVE. 


SECTION  III. 


Sidi  HamcVsjoitrneyings — His  arrival  on  the  hanks  of  the  river  ci 
ed  by  the  natives  Gozen-Zair,  and  at  Tomhucloo — Description 
that  city — Its  commerce , wealth,  and  inhabitants. 


' 


“ Those  of  us  who  had  escaped  with  our  lives  from  t 
desert,  only  twenty-one  in  number,  with  twelve  came 
out  of  a caravan  of  one  thousand  men  and  four  thousai] 
camels,  stopped  near  a small  town,  called  TVabilt , on  t 
bank  of  a river  about  half  as  broad  as  from  the  city 
Mogadore  to  the  island,  that  is  to  say,  fifty  yards.  We  h; 
no  provisions,  but  the  negroes  seeing  us  in  distress,  cari 
out  and  gave  us  some  meat,  and  bread  made  of  barle 
corn  : here  we  remained  ten  days  to  recruit  ourselves  at 
our  camels,  which  were  just  alive.  The  river  on  who 
bank  we  remained,  was  called  by  those  who  spoke  in  Arl 
bic,  el  Woed  Tenij,  and  by  the  negroes,  Gozen-Zair. 
very  high  ridge  of  mountains,  great  like  Atlas  seen  fro i 
Suse,  (but  not  capped  with  snow,)  lie  to  the  southwesl 
ward,  and  at  a distance.  After  resting  ourselves  and  01 
camels  for  ten  days,  we  set  forward  for  Tombuctoo.  W 
travelled  for  four  days  to  the  eastward  through  Soudan, 
hilly  country,  but  of  a very  rich  soil,  and  much  of  it  cu! 
tivated  with  the  hoe.”  I then  asked  him  what  he  meant  fc 
Soudan  ? and  he  said,  “ The  whole  country  south  of  tl 
great  desert  from  the  great  ocean,  a great  way  east,  an 
including  the  district  of  Tombuctoo,  is  called  by  tl 
Arabs  and  Moors,  Soudan ; of  which  Tombuctoo  is  tli 
capital.  Having  watered  our  camels  again,  and  findin 
the  hill  country  tedious  to  get  through,  by  reason  of  tli 
trees,  we  bought  some  barley-corn,  and  killed  two  difow:  I 
and  went  northward  to  the  border  of  the  desert,  and  travel 
led  on  to  the  eastward  for  eight  days,  when  we  fell  in  wit 
the  great  path  used  by  the  caravans,  and  in  two  days  mor 
came  near  to  the  walls  of  Tombuctoo.  We  had  seen 
great  many  negroes  near  the  river : they  live  in  small  towis 
lenced  in  with  large  reeds,  to  keep  off  enemies  and  th 
wild  beasts  in  the  night : they  dwell  in  small  round  hut 
made  with  cane  standing  upright,  are  covered  with  the  sami 
materials,  and  daubed  with  mud,  to  fill  up  the  opening: 
between  them.  The  negroes  were  afraid  of  us  when  w< 
came  near  their  little  towns,  and  those  who  were  outsidf 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


249 


in  in  and  blocked  up  the  passage  in  a minute  ; but  find- 
ig  we  did  not  come  to  rob  them,  as  the  large  companies 
f Arabs  often  do,  but  that  we  were  poor  and  hungry, 
iey  were  willing  to  exchange  barley-corn  and  meat  for 
:ime  of  our  goods.  Nearly  all  the  few  things  we  had  were 
upended  to  keep  us  alive  until  we  came  near  Tombuctoo. 

' he  king  and  the  people  of  that  city  had  been  looking  out 
ir  the  cafavan  from  Widnoon  for  two  moons,  but  not  one 
Mil  had  arrived  before  us,  and  we  were  permitted  to  go 
ito  the  city  after  delivering  up  our  guns,  powder,  and  lead, 
1 the  king’s  officers  to  keep  until  we  should  wish  to  de- 
prt.  Tombuctoo  is  a very  large  city,  five  times  as  great 

i Swearah : it  is  built  on  a level  plain,  surrounded  on  all 
f les  by  hills,  except  on  the  south,  where  the  plain  coatin- 
gs to  the  bank  of  the  same  river  tve  had  been  to  before,- 
inch  is  wide  and  deep,  and  runs  to  the  east ; for  we  W'ere 
ffiged  to  go  to  it  to  water  our  cameis,  and  here  tve  saw 
■any  boats  made  of  great  trees,  some  with  negroes  in  them 
pddling  across  the  river.  The  city  is  strongly  walled  in 
vth  stone  laid  in  clay,  like  the  towns  and  houses  in  Suse, 
ciy  a great  deal  thicker : the  house  of  the  king  is  very' 
jge  and  high,  like  the  largest  house  in  Mogadore,  but 
: iit  of  the  same  materials  as  the  walls  : there  are  a great 
liny  more  houses  in  that  city  built  of  stone,  with  shops  on 
ce  side,  where  they  sell  salt,  and  knives,  and  blue  cloth, 
ad  haicks,  and  an  abundance  of  other  things,  with  many 
pid  ornaments.  The  inhabitants  are  blacks,  and  the  chief 
i: a very  large  and  gray-headed  old  black  man,  who  is  calk 
c Shegar , which  means  sultan,  or  king.  The  principal 
prt  of  the  houses  are  made  with  large  reeds,  as  thick  as  a 
tin’s  arm,  and  stand  upon  their  ends,  and  are  covered  with 
stall  reeds  first,  and  then  w ith  the  leaves  of  the  date  trees : 
t ty  are  round,  and  the  tops  come  to  a point  like  a heap 
c stones.  Neither  the  Shegar  nor  his  people  are  Mosle- 
ms, but  there  is  a town  divided  off  Irom  the  principal 
ce,  in  one  corner,  by  a strong  partition  wall,  and  one 
gteto  it,  which  leads  from  the  main  town,  like  the  Jews’ 
t vn,  or  Millah  in  Mogadore  : all  the  Moors  or  Arabs  who 
fee  liberty  to  come  into  Tombuctoo,  are  obliged  to  sleep 

ii  that  part  of  it  every  night,  or  go  out  of  the  city  entirely, 
ad  no  stranger  is  allowed  to  enter  that  Millah  without 

32 


250' 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


leaving  his  knife  with  the  gate-keeper : but  when  he  come 
out  in  the  morning  it  is  restored  to  him.  The  people  wh 
live  in  that  part  are  all  Moslemin.  The  negroes,  ba 
Arabs,  and  Moors,  are  all  mixed  together,  and  marry  wit 
each  other,  as  if  they  were  all  of  one  colour  : they  have  n 
property  of  consequence,  except  a few  asses:  their  gat ; 
is  shut  and  fastened  every  night  at  dark,  and  very  strongl 
guarded  both  in  the  night  and  in  the  day-time.  The  She 
gar  or  king  is  always  guarded  by  one  hundred  men  o 
mules,  armed  with  good  guns,  and  one  hundred  men  o 
foot  with  guns  and  long  knives.  He  would  not  go  into  th 
Millah,  and  we  only  saw  him  four  or  five  times  in  the  twjj 
moons  we  stayed  atTombuctoo,  waiting  for  the  caravan 
but  it  had  perished  on  the  desert— neither  did  the  yearl 
caravan  from  Tunis  and  Tripoli  arrive,  for  it  had  also  bee 
destroyed.  The  city  of  Tombuctoo  is  very  rich  as  wejj 
as  very  large ; it  has  four  gates  to  it ; all  of  them  are  opei 
ed  in  the  day-time,  but  very  strongly  guarded  and  shut; 
night.  The  negro  women  are  very  fat  and  handsome,  an 
wear  large  round  gold  rings  in  their  noses,  and  flat  ones  i 
their  ears,  and  gold  chains  and  amber  beads  about  the 
necks,  with  images  and  white  fish-bones,  bent  round,  anj 
the  ends  fastened  together,  hanging  down  between  the 
breasts;  they  have  bracelets  on  their  wrists  and  on  the 
ankles,  and  go  barefoot.  I had  bought  a small  snuff-bcj 
filled  with  snuff  in  Morocco,  and  showed  it  to  the  wome 
in  the  principal  street  of  Tombuctoo,  which  is  very  wides 
there  were  a great  many  about  me  in  a few  minutes,  an 
they  insisted  on  buying  my  snuff’  and  box  ; one  made  irs 
one  offer,  and  another  made  me  another,  until  one,  whit 
wore  richer  ornaments  than  the  rest,  told  me,  in  broke 
Arabic,  that  she  would  take  oft’  all  she  had  about  her  an 
give  them  to  me  for  the  box  and  its  contents.  I agreed  l 
accept  them,  and  she  pulled  off  her  nose-rings  and  ea: 
rings,  all  her  neck  chains  with  their  ornaments,  and  tf 
bracelets  from  her  wrists  and  ankles,  and  gave  them  t 
me  in  exchange  for  it : these  ornaments  would  weigh  moi 
than  a pound,  and  were  made  of  solid  gold  at  Tombucto 
and  I kept  them  through  my  whole  journey  afterward 
and  carried  them  to  my  wife,  who  now  wears  a part  of  then 
Tombuctoo  carries  on  a great  trade  with  all  the  caravai 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


251 

hat  come  from  Morocco  and  the  shores  of  the  Mediterra- 
lean  sea.  From  Algiers,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  &c.  are  brought 
iill  kinds  of  cloths,  iron,  salt,  muskets,  powder,  and  lead* 
words  or  scimitars,  tobacco,  opium,  spices,  and  perfumes, 
imber  beads  and  other  trinkets,  with  a few  other  articles  ; 
hey  carry  back  in  return  elephants’  teeth,  gold  dust,  and 
wrought  gold,  gum  Senegal,  ostrich  feathers,  very  curiously 
vorked  turbans,  and  slaves ; a great  many  of  the  latter, 

(nd  many  other  articles  of  less  importance  : the  slaves  are 
wrought  in  from  the  southwest,  all  strongly  ironed,  and  are 
old  very  cheap  ; so  that  a good  stout  man  may  be  bought 
or  a haick,  which  costs  in  the  empire  of  Morocco  about 
wo  dollars.  The  caravans  stop  and  encamp  about  two 
riles  from  the  city,  in  a deep  valley,  and  the  negroes  do 
ot  molest  them  : they  bring  their  merchandise  near  the 
/alls  of  the  city,  where  the  inhabitants  purchase  all  their 
oods  in  exchange  for  the  above  mentioned  articles  ; not 
•oore  than  fifty  men  from  any  one  caravan  being  allowed  to 
nter  the  city  at  a time,  and  they  must  go  out  before  others 
( re  permitted  to  enter.  This  city  also  carries  on  a great 
'ade  with  Wassanah  (a  city  far  to  the  southeast)  in  all  the 
rticles  that  are  brought  to  it  by  caravans,  and  get  returns 
1 slaves,  elephants’  teeth,  gold,  &c.  The  principal  male 
lhabitants  are  clothed  with  blue  cloth  shirts,  that  reach 
■ om  their  shoulders  down  to  their  knees,  and  are  very  wide, 
nd  girt  about  their  loins  with  a red  and  brown  cotton  sash 
r girdle : they  also  hang  about  their  bodies  pieces  of  dif- 
crent  coloured  cloth  and  silk  handkerchiefs  : the  king  is 
ressed  in  a white  robe  of  a similar  fashion,  but  covered 
dth  white  and  yellow  gold  and  silver  plates,  that  glitter  in 
ie  sun ; he  also  has  many  other  shining  ornaments  of  shells 
nd  stones  hanging  about  him,  and  wears  a pair  of  breeches 
,ke  the  Moors  and  Barbary  Jews,  and  has  a kind  of  white 
jrban  on  his  head,  pointing  up,  and  strung  with  different 
inds  of  ornaments  ; his  feet  are  covered  with  red  Moroc- 
o shoes  : he  has  no  other  weapon  about  him  than  a large 
write  staff  or  sceptre,  with  a golden  lion  on  the  head  of 
which  he  carries  in  his  hand  : his  whole  countenance  is 
rild,  and  he  seems  to  govern  his  subjects  more  like  a fil- 
ter than  a king.  The  whole  of  his  officers  and  guards 
year  breeches  that  are  .generally  dyed  red,  but  sometimes 


25-2 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


they  are  white  or  blue  ; all  but  the  king  go  bareheade< 
The  poor  people  have  only  a single  piece  of  blue  or  oth<  ! 
cloth  about  them,  and  the  slaves  a breech  cloth.  T1 
inhabitants  in  Tombuctoo  are  very  numerous  ; I think  si  I 
times  as  many  as  in  Svvearah,  besides  the  Arabs  and  otht 
Moslemin  or  Mohammedans,  in  their  Millah,  or  separai" 
town  ; which  must  contain  nearly  as  many  people  as  thei j 
are  all  together  in  Svvearah.” 

NOTE  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

Svvearah  or  Mogadore  contains  about  thirty-six  thou  sari 
souls  ; that  is,  thirty  thousand  Moors  and  six  thousan 
Jews:  this  may  be  a high  estimation  for  Tombuctoi 
making  it  two  hundred  and  sixteen  thousand  inhabitants! 
yet  considering  the  commercial  importance  of  the  plao 
and  the  fertility  of  the  country  around  it,  there  can  be  a 
doubt  but  it  contains  a vast  number  of  inhabitants  ; and  1 
must  also  observe,  that  if  it  was  a small  town,  and  contaii  I 
eel  the  riches  attributed  to  it,  they  would  require  a verl 
strong  force  to  prevent  the  Arabs  from  the  desert,  togeth' 
with  the  caravans,  from  taking  it  by  surprise  or  by  storm. 

“ The  women  are  clothed  in  a light  shirt  or  under- dres: 
and  over  it  a green,  red,  or  blue  covering,  from  the 
breasts  to  below  their  knees — the  whole  girt  about  the 
waists  with  a red  girdle  : they  stain  their  cheeks  and  for( 
heads  red  or  yellow  on  some  occasions,  and  the  marrie' t 
women  wear  a kind  of  hood  on  their  heads,  made  of  blu 
cloth  or  silk,  and  cotton  handkerchiefs  of  different  kind 
and  colours,  and  go  barefooted.  The  king  and  people  c 
Tombuctoo  do  not  fear  and  worship  God,  like  the  Mosle 
rains,  but  like  the  people  of  Soudan  they  only  pray  on 
time  in  twenty-four  hours,  when  they  see  the  moon,  an 
when  she  is  not  seen  they  do  not  pray  at  all : they  cannc 
read  or  write,  but  are  honest,  and  they  circumcise  thei 
children  like  the  Arabs  : they  have  no  mosques,  but  danc 
every  night,  as  the  Moors  and  Arabs  pray.  The  Shega 
or  king  had  collected  about  one  thousand  slaves,  som 
gums,  elephants’  teeth,  gold  dust,  &c.  to  be  ready  for  th 
yearly  caravans  ; but  as  three  moons  had  passed  awa; 
since  the  time  they  ought  to  have  arrived,  he  gave  ther 
up  for  lost,  and  concluded  to  send  a caravan  with  part  c 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


253 


Is  goods  that  came  across  the  desert;  viz.  some  salt, 
on,  cloths,  &c.  to  a large  city  at  a great  distance  from 
'ombuctoo  : and  having  formed  a body  of  about  three 
tiousand  men,  well  armed  with  muskets,  long  knives, 
.id  spears,  and  three  thousand  asses,  and  about  two  hun- 
red  camels,  which  were  all  loaded  with  heavy  goods, 

; ich  as  iron,  salt,  tobacco,  &c.,  he  hired  my  brother  Seid 
Slid  myself,  (with  ten  more  of  our  companions,)  to  carry 
rads  on  our  two  camels  to  Wassanah,  for  which  he  was 
i>  give  us,  when  we  came  back,  two  haicks  each  and 
lime  gold.  As  we  were  completely  in  his  power,  we  did 
jot  dare  to  refuse  to  go,  and  he  put  us  under  the  care  of 
Its  brother,  whose  name  was  Shelbaa,  who  had  command 

f the  whole  caravan.  It  was  in  the  month  of  Shual  ( ) 

hen  we  departed  from  Tombuctoo  for  a place  we  had 
ever  before  heard  of.  We  had  in  the  company  about  two 
undared  Moslemin,  but  the  master  of  the  caravan  would 

rat  permit  us  Moslemin  to  keep  our  guns,  for  fear  we 
lould  turn  against  him,  if  he  was  obliged  to  fight, 

SECTION  iv. 

!UU  Hamet  sets  cut  for  Wassanah — His  arival  there,  and  description 
of  that  city,  the  country , and  its  inhabitants  ; of  the  great  river 
rvhich  runs  near  it,  and  of  his  return  to  Tombuctoo-— Containing 
also  the  author's  geographical  opinions,  founded  on  this  narrative 
on  the  sources  cf  the  river  Niger;  its  length,  course,  and  outlet, 
into  the  Atlantic  ocean. 

“ All  being  prepared,  we  went  from  Tombuctoo  about 
vo  hours’  ride,  towards  the  south,  to  the  bank  of  the 
iver  which  is  called  at  that  place  Zolibib,  and  was  wider 
nan  from  Mogadore  to  the  island ; (i.  e.  about  five  hum 
ded  yards  ;)  here  wTas  a miserable  village  built  with  canes, 
nd  mudded  over  : it  had  about  two  hundred  small  houses 
n it,  but  no  walls.  We  then  set  off  near  the  side  of  the 
iver,  and  travelled  on  in  a plain  even  country  for  six  days, 
very  day  within  sight  of  the  river,  which  was  on  our  right 
land,  and  running  the  same  way  we  travelled,  and  our 
course  was  a little  to  the  south  of  east ; when  we  came  to 
i small  town  called  Bimbinah , walled  in  with  canes  and 
horn  bushes,  and  stopped  two  days  near  it,  to  get  pro- 
visions and  rest  our  beasts  : here  the  river  turned  more  to 
the  southeastward,  because  there  was  a very  high  mountain 


254 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


in  sight  to  the  eastward : we  then  went  from  the  river  sic 
and  pursued  our  journey  more  southwardly,  through1 
hilly  and  woody  country,  for  fifteen  days,  when  we  car 
to  the  same  river  again.  Every  night  we  were  obliged 
make  up  large  fires  all  around  the  caravan,  to  keep  olf  ti| 
wild  beasts,  such  as  lions,  tigers,  and  other  animals,  wht 
made  a dreadful  howling.  Here  was  a small  town  of  bla< 
people  belonging  to  another  nation,  who  were  enemies  i 
the  king  of  Tombuctoo,  but  were  friendly  to  the  king 
Wassanah  ; and  not  being  strong,  they  did  not  molest  n 
but  furnished  us  with  what  corn  we  wanted,  and  twen 
oxen.  We  saw  a large  number  of  armed  black  men,  nea 
ly  naked,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  who  seemed  to  1 
hostile,  but  they  could  not  get  across  to  attack  us  : v 
also  saw  two  very  large  towns,  but  walled  in  like  the  othe 1 
we  had  passed.  We  stopped  here  and  rested  our  came1 
and  asses  five  days,  and  then  went  onward  again  in  aboi1 
a S.  E.  direction,  winding  as  the  river  ran,  for  three  days' 
and  then  had  to  climb  over  a very  high  ridge  of  mountain1 
which  took  up  six  days,  and  when  we  were  on  the  top  ij 
them,  we  could  see  a large  chain  of  high  mountains  to  tr| 
westward  ; those  we  passed  were  thickly  covered  with  ver 
large  trees,  and  it  was  extremely  difficult  to  get  up  an 
down  them ; but  we  could  not  go  any  other  way,  for  thj 
river  ran  against  the  steep  side  of  the  mountain  ; so  havin 
gotten  over  them  we  came  to  the  river’s  bank  again,  wher! 
it  was  very  narrow  and  full  of  rocks,  that  dashed  the  wate 
dreadfully  ; then  finding  a good  path,  we  kept  on  to  th 
S.  E.  winding  a little  every  day,  sometimes  more  to  tlr 
east,  then  to  the  south  again.  We  kept  travelling  this  wa; 
for  twelve  days  after  leaving  the  mountains,  during  whicl 
time  we  had  seen  the  river  nearly  every  day  on  our  rigli 
hand,  and  had  passed  a great  many  small  streams  that  emptj 
into  it : it  was  now  very  wide  and  looked  deep — here  wt 
saw  many  trees  dug  out  hollow,  like  the  boats  at  Tombuc 
too,  and  they  were  used  to  carry  negroes  across  the  river, 
and  were  pushed  along  with  flat  pieces  of  wood  : we  alsc 
saw  the  high  mountains  on  the  west  side  of  the  great  river, 
very  plainly.  Having  rested  seven  days  at  the  ferrying 
place,  we  then  travelled  on  for  fifteen  days,  most  of  the  time 
in  sight  of  the  river.  When  we  came  close  to  the  walls  of 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA; 


255 


te  city  of  Wassanah,  the  king  came  out  with  a great  army, 
c nsisting  of  all  his  soldiers,  to  meet  us,  but  finding  we  had 
e ly  come  to  trade  by  the  orders  of,  and  with  the  goods  of, 
b friend  Shegar  of  Tombuctoo,  he  invited  the  chief,  and 
tb  whole  of  the  caravan,  to  abide  within  a square  enclosure 
iar  the  walls  of  the  city  : here  we  remained  two  moons* 
e changing  our  goods  for  slaves,  gold,  elephants’  teeth,  &c, 
||“  The  city  of  Wassanah  is  built  near  the  bank  of  the 
r er,  which  runs  past  it  nearly  south,  between  high  moun- 
t ns  on  both  sides,  though  not  very  close  to  the  river, 
viich  is  so  wide  there  that  we  could  hardly  see  a man 
aross  it  on  the  other  side  : the  people  of  Tombuctoo  call 
kZolibib,  and  those  of  Wassanah  call  it  Zadi.  The  walls 
c the  city  are  very  large,  and  made  of  great  stones,  laid  up 

E.e  the  stone  fences  in  the  province  of  Hah  Hah,  in  Moroc- 
, but  without  any  clay  or  mud  amongst  them  i they  are 
ry  thick  and  strong,  and  much  higher  than  the  walls  of 
ombuctoo.  I was  permitted  to  walk  round  them  in  com- 
fcny  with  six  negroes,  and  it  took  me  one  whole  day  : the 
tills  are  built  square,  and  have  one  large  gate  on  each 
sle.  The  country  all  around  the  city  is  dug  up,  and  has 
irley,  corn,  and  other  vegetables  planted  on  it : and  close 
t"  the  side  of  the  river  all  the  land  is  covered  with  rice,  and 
tare  are  a great  many  oxen,  and  cows,  and  asses,  belong- 
igto  the  city,  but  no  camels,  nor  horses,  mules,  sheep, 
nr  goats ; but  all  about  and  in  the  city,  speckled  fowls 
nound,  and  there  are  plenty  of  eggs.  The  people  of  the 
( ravan  were  allowed  to  enter  the  city,  but  only  twenty  at  a 
ine,  and  they  were  all  obliged  to  go  out  again  before  night, 
“We  had  been  there  more  than  a moon,  when  it  came 
1 my  turn  to  go  in.  I found  almost  the  whole  of  the 
■ound  inside  of  the  wralls  wras  covered  with  huts  made  of 
ones  piled  up  without  clay,  and  some  reeds,  laid  across 
e tops,  covered  over  with  the  large  leaves  of  the  date  or 
dm  tree,  or  of  another  tree  W'hich  looks  very  much  like  a 
ite  tree,  and  bears  a fruit  as  large  as  my  head,  which  has 
white  juice  in  it  sweeter  than  milk  ; the  inside  is  hard, 
id  very  good  to  eat : the  trees  that  bear  this  big  fruit  grow 
i abundance  in  this  country,  and  their  fruit  is  very  plenty ; 
leir  huts  have  narrow  passages  between  them.  The  king 
r chief  is  called  Oleeboo,  which  means,  in  the  negro  talk, 


256 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


good  sultan  : he  is  a very  tall,  and  quite  a young  man;  If 
house  is  very  large,  square,  and  high,  made  of  stone,  ar 
the  chinks  filled  up  with  something  white  like  lime,  b; 
not  so  hard  : they  would  not  let  me  go  into  his  house,  ai 
told  me  he  had  one  hundred  and  fifty  wives,  or  more,  ai 
ten  thousand  slaves  : he  dresses  in  a white  shirt,  that  loo 1 
like  the  one  worn  by  Mr.  Wiltshire,  and  long  trowK 
made  like  them  you  have  on,  and  coloured  like  an  orange  : 
Those  I then  had  on  were  common  wide  sailor  trowsei 
“ He  has  over  his  shirt  a caftan  or  robe  with  sleeves  to  , 
made  of  red  cloth,  tied  about  with  a girdle  that  goes  fro  1 
his  breast  to  his  hips,  made  of  silk  handkerchiefs  of  ; ] 
colours,  and  has  slips  of  fine  coloured  silk  tied  round  1: 
arms  and  legs  : his  hair  is  also  tied  in  small  bunches,  ar 
he  wears  on  his  head  a very  high  hat  made  of  canes,  colou 
ed  very  handsomely,  and  adorned  with  fine  feathers : 1 
has  sandals  on  his  feet,  bound  up  with  gold  chains,  and 
great  gold  chain  over  his  shoulder,  with  a bunch  of  orn; 
merits  made  of  bright  stones  and  shells,  that  dazzle  tl 
eyes,  hanging  on  his  breast,  and  wears  a large  dagger  b 
his  side  in  a gold  case.  He  rides  on  the  back  of  a hur; 
beast,  called  Ilfement , three  times  as  thick  as  my  gre: 
camel,  and  a great  deal  higher,  with  a very  long  nose  an 
great  teeth,  and  almost  as  black  as  the  negroes  : he  is  s 
strong,  that  he  can  kill  an  hundred  men  in  a minute  whe 
he  is  mad  ; this  is  the  animal  that  the  teeth  grow  in  whic 
we  bring  from  Tombuctoo  to  Widnoon,  which  you  ca 
elephants’  teeth,  and  this  was  the  only  one  of  the  animal 
1 ever  saw,  but  they  told  me  these  creatures  W'ere  ver 
plenty  down  the  river  from  Wassanah.”  This  answers  t 
the  description  of,  and  no  doubt  is,  the  elephant. 

“ The  king  of  Wassanah  has  a guard  of  two  hundre 
negroes  on  foot,  one  hundred  of  them  armed  with  muskets, 
fifty  with  long  spears,  and  fifty  with  great  bows  and  arrows 
with  long  knives  by  their  sides  : they  always  attend  bin 
when  he  goes  out  on  his  beast ; he  has  also  a very  largi 
army  : they  fight  with  guns,  spears,  and  bows  and  arrows 
The  city  has  twice  as  many  inhabitants  in  it  as  Tombuctoo 
and  we  saw  a great  many  towns  near  it  on  the  other  sid< 
of  the  river,  as  well  as  several  small  settlements  on  th< 
same  side  below.  The  king  nor  the  people  do  not  prat 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA- 


257 


1)  e the  Moslemins,  but  they  jump  about,  fall  dowh,  tear 
tbir  faces  as  if  they  were  mad  when  any  of  their  friends  die, 
ml  every  time  they  see  the  new  moon  they  make  a great 
it  st,  and  dance  all  night  to  music  made  by  singing  and 
siting  on  skins  tied  across  a hollow  stick,  and  shaking 
lie  stones  in  a bag  or  shell ; but  they  do  not  read  nor 

Site,  and  are  heathens.  Though  the  free  people  in  this 
ce  do  not  steal,  and  are  very  hospitable,  yet  I hope  the 
e is  near  when  the  faithful,  and  they  that  fear  God  and 
prophet,  will  turn  them  to  the  true  belief,  or  drive 
m away  from  this  goodly  land. 

‘ The  principal  inhabitants  of  Wassanah  are  dressed  in 
ij  ts  of  white  or  blue  cloth,  with  short  trowsers,  and  some 
21  a long  robe  over  the  whole,  tied  about  with  a girdle 
jlifferent  colours  : the  free  females  are  generally  very  fat, 
dress  in  blue  or  white  coverings  tied  about  their  waists 
h girdles  of  all  colours  : they  w ear  a great  many  orna- 
tits  ol  gold,  and  beads,  and  shells,  hanging  to  their  ears 
noses,  necks,  arms,  ankles,  and  all  over  their  hair ; 
the  poorer  sort  are  only  covered  about  their  loins  by  a 
which  grows  on  the  tree  that  bears  the  big  fruit  I have 
you  about  before.”  This  fruit,  I imagine,  must  be 
[cocoa-nut,  and  I have  often  in  the  West-Indies,  and 
vhere,  observed  the  outer  bark  of  this  singular  palm- 
: it  is  woven  by  nature  like  cloth,  each  thread  being 
ed  exactly  over  and  under  the  others.  It  appears  iike 
iilar  wove  coarse  bagging,  and  is  quite  strong  : it  loo- 
and  drops  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree  of  its  own  accord, 
le  tree  increases  in  size  and  age,  I had  long  before 
tidered  that  this  most  singular  bark  must  have  suggest- 
o man  the  first  idea  of  cloth,  and  taught  him  how  to 
*!,  and  place  the  threads  so  as  to  form  it  of  other  mate- 
tfj  that  have  since  been  used  for  that  purpose,  and  this 
s hint  from  nature  has  been  improved  into  our  present 
eiods  of  spinning  and  weaving. 

' The  male  slaves  go  entirely  naked,  but  the  women  are 
■Wed  a piece  of  this  cloth  to  cover  their  nakedness  with : 
e'  are  very  numerous,  and  many  of  them  kept  chained  : 
ie  are  obliged  to  work  the  earth  round  about  the  city. 
h|  inhabitants  catch  a great  many  fish  : they  have  boats 
wo  of  great  trees,  cut  off  and  hollowed  out,  that  will 

33 


258 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


hold  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty  negroes ; and  the  brother  ! 
the  king  told  one  of  my  Moslemin  companions  who  cou 
understand  him,  (for  I could  not,)  that  he  was  going 
set  out  in  a few  days  with  sixty  boats,  and  to  carry  fi 
hundred  slaves  down  the  river,  first  to  the  southward,  a 
then  to  the  westward,  where  they  should  come  to  the  gn 
water,  and  sell  them  to  pale  people,  who  came  there 
large  boats,  and  brought  muskets,  and  powder,  and  ! 
bacco,  and  blue  cloth,  and  knives,  fkc. : he  said  it  wail 
long  way,  and  would  take  him  three  moons  to  get  the 
and  he  should  be  gone  twenty  moons  before  he  could  ;J 
back  by  land,  but  should  be  very  rich.”  I then  asked  h 
how  many  boats  he  supposed  there  were  in  the  river  I 
Wassanah  ? he  said,  “ A great  many,  three  or  four  hi  I 
dred,  I should  think  ; but  some  of  them  are  very  sma ! 
we  saw  a great  many  of  these  people  who  had  been  do  ( 
the  river  to  see  the  great  water,  with  slaves  and  teeth,  a I 
came  back  again : they  said  the  pale  people  lived  in  gr  ( 
boats,  and  had  guns  as  big  as  their  bodies,  that  mad  i 
noise  like  thunder,  and  would  kill  all  the  people  in  a hi  ] 
dred  negro  boats,  if  they  went  too  near  them.  Wes 
in  the  river  and  on  the  bank  a great  number  of  fish  vv 
legs  and  large  mouths,  and  these  would  run  into  the  w? 
in  a minute,  if  any  man  went  near  them,  but  they  told  i 
they  would  catch  children,  and  sometimes  men,  when  > 
the  boats  : (these  are,  no  doubt,  crocodiles  or  hippopc 
mus’.)  The  negroes  are  very  kind,  and  would  always  gj 
us  barley,  corn,  or  rice,  milk  or  meat,  if  we  were  hung 
though  we  could  not  speak  a language  they  understo 
While  we  stopped  at  Wassanah,  it  rained  almost  every  d 
Having  traded  away  all  the  goods  we  carried  there,  Si 
bar  took  three  hundred  slaves  and  a great  many  tee . 
dazzling  stones,  and  shells,  and  gold-— with  these  we  l 
off  again,  and  went  the  same  way  back  to  Tombuch 
which  took  us  three  moons,  and  we  were  gone  from  £ 
time  we  left  it,  to  the  time  we  returned,  eight  moons,  t. 
my  arrival  at  Tombuctoo,  we  were  paid  by  the  chief  ii 
the  caravan  according  to  promise,  and  a few  days  afi  • 
wards  a caravan  arrived  there  from  Tunis,  which  we  jc. 
ed,  to  return  by  that  way  to  our  own  country.” 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


2 59 


I must  here  beg  the  reader’s  indulgence  for  a moment, 
,i  order  to  make  some  remarks,  and  a few  geographical 
oservations  that  this  part  of  the  narrative  has  suggested, 
'his  narrative  I,  for  my  own  part,  consider  strictly  true 
;id  correct,  as  far  as  the  memory  and  judgment  of  Sidi 
Jamet  were  concerned,  whose  veracity  and  intelligence  I 
lid  before  tested : he  had  not  the  least  inducement  held  out 
1 him  for  giving  this  account,  further  than  my  own  and 
,[r.  Willshire’s  curiosity  ; and  his  description  of  Tombuc- 
to  agrees  in  substance  with  that  given  by  several  Moors, 
•{’ez  merchants,)  who  came  to  Mr.  Willshire’s  house  to 
by  goods  while  Sidi  Hamet  was  there,  and  who  said  they 
. id  known  him  in  Tombuctoo  several  years  ago.  From 
tese  considerations  combined,  and  after  examining  the 
: l st  maps  extant,  I conclude  that  I have  strong  grounds  on 
Riich  to  found  the  following  geographical  opinions,  viz. 
j 1st,  That  the  great  Desert  is  much  higher  land  on  its 
i fjuthern  side  (as  I had  proved  it  to  be  on  the  north  by  my 
e/n  observations)  than  the  surrounding  country,  and  con- 
squently  that  its  whole  surface  is  much  higher  than  the 
l id  near  it  that  is  susceptible  of  cultivation.  2dly,  That 
12  river  which  Sidi  Hamet  and  his  companions  came  to 
\thin  fourteen  days’  ride,  and  west  of  Tombuctoo,  called 
t the  Arabs  el  JVoed  Tenij,  and  by  the  negroes  Gozen- 
mr,  takes  its  rise  in  the  mountains  south  of,  and  border - 
ig  on,  the  great  desert,  being  probably  the  northern 
tanch  of  that  extensive  ridge  in  which  the  Senegal,  Gam- 
ta,  and  Niger  rivers  have  their  sources ; and  that  this  river 
i a branch  of  the  Niger,  which  runs  eastwardly  for  several 
i ndred  miles  to  Tombuctoo,  near  which  city,  many 
Ranches  uniting  in  one  great  stream,  it  takes  the  name  of 
f dibib,  and  continues  to  run  nearly  east,  about  two  hun- 
ted and  fifty  miles  from  Tombuctoo  ; when  meeting  with 
tgh  land,  it  is  turned  more  southeastward!)",  and  running 
i that  direction  in  a winding  course,  about  five  hundred 
riles,  it  has  met  with  some  obstructions,  through  which 
i has  forced  its  way,  and  formed  a considerable  fall : for 
vdi  Hamet,  having  spent  six  days  in  passing  the  moun- 
t ns,  came  again  near  the  river,  which  was  then  filled  with 
token  rocks,  and  the  water  was  foaming  and  roaring 
mong  them,  as  he  observed,  “ most  dreadfully/’  This 


260 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


must  be  a fall  or  rapid.  3dly,  That  from  these  falls,  t 
runs  first  to  the  southeastward,  and  then  more  to  the  sou , 
till  it  reaches  Wassanah,  about  six  hundred  miles,  wh ; 
it  is  by  some  called  Zolibib , and  by  others  Zadi.  4th , 
That  as  the  inhabitants  of  Wassanah  say  they  go  first  ) 
the  southward,  and  then  to  the  westward,  in  boats  to  : 
great  water  ; this  I conceive  must  be  the  Atlantic  oce , 
where  they  have  seen  pale  men  and  great  boats,  &c.  Tin  ,i 
I should  naturally  conclude  were  Europeans,  with  vesse 
and  that  it  takes  three  moons  to  get  there,  (about  eigh  i 
five  days,)  at  the  rate  of  thirty  miles  a day,  which  is  i 
least  we  can  give  them  with  so  strong  a current ; it  mal  i 
a distance  from  thence  to  the  sea  of  about  two  thousE; 
five  hundred  miles  : in  computing  this  distance,  one-thi 
or  more  should  be  allowed  for  its  windings,  so  that  ; 
whole  length  of  the  river  is  about  four  thousand  mil , 
and  is  probably  the  longest  and  largest  on  the  African  ce 
tinent  5thly,  That  the  waters  of  this  river  in  their  p 
sage  towards  the  east,  have  been  obstructed  in  their  cou  i 
by  high  mountains  in  the  central  regions  of  this  unexpl 
ed  continent,  and  turned  southwardly;  that  they  are  bon 
along  to  the  southward,  between  the  ridges  of  mounta  ij 
that  are  known  to  extend  all  along  the  western  coast,  frc 
Senegal  to  the  gulf  of  Guinea,  and  to  round  with  that  g ‘ 
to  the  south  of  the  equator ; that  they  are  continua  l 
narrowed  in  and  straightened  by  that  immense  ridge 
which  the  great  river  Nile  is  known  to  have  its  souro 
and  which  mountains  lie  in  the  equatorial  region  ; tl 
this  central  river  receives,  in  its  lengthened  course,  all  t 
streams  that  water  and  fertilize  the  whole  country  betwe 
the  two  before-mentioned  ridges  of  mountains : the  vvat( 
thus  accumulated  and  pent  up,  at  length  broke  over  tin 
western  and  most  feeble  barrier,  tore  it  down  to  its  ba; 
and  thence  found  and  forced  their  way  to  the  Atlani 
ocean,  forming  what  is  now  known  as  the  river  Cong 
In  corroboration  of  this  opinion,  some  men  of  my  a 
quaintance,  who  have  visited  the  Congo,  and  traded 
along  the  coast  between  it  and  the  Senegal,  affirm,  that  t 
Congo  discharges  more  water  into  the  Atlantic,  taking  t 
whole  year  together,  than  all  the  streams  to  the  northwa 
of  it,  between  its  mouth  and  Cape  de  Yerd, 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


261 


SECTION  V. 

i \idi  Harriet's  journey  from  Tombuctoo  to  Morocco  by  the  eastern  route 

— His  description  of  the  Desert , and  of  the  country  on  both  sides  of 

it — Of  a dreadful  battle  with  the  wandering  Arabs — S idi  Hamel 
i takes  his  leave,  and  sets  oid  to  join  his  family. 

“ The  caravan  we  joined  at  Tombuctoo,  was  a very 
trge  one,  belonging  to  Algiers,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  and  Fez, 
our  united  together.  They  remained  near  that  city  two 
toons,  and  bought  two  thousand  slaves,  besides  a great 
eal  of  gold  dust,  and  teeth,  and  turbans,  and  gold  rings, 
nd  chains,  and  gum  ; but  Seid  and  I had  only  our  two 
amels,  and  they  were  but  partly  loaded  with  gum,  for 
ccount  of  Ben  Nassar , the  Sheick  of  the  Tunissian  part 
f the  caravan,  for  there  were  three  Sheicks  in  it.  When 
very  thing  was  ready,  we  set  off  from  Tombuctoo,  and 
avelled  east- northerly  twenty  days  through  the  hilly  coun- 
ty, crossing  a great  many  little  streams  of  water  that  ran  to 
ae  south  and  west  towards  the  great  river,  it  having  rained 
ery  hard  almost  every  night  whilst  we  were  at  Tombuctoo. 

I When  we  were  going  amongst  the  hills  and  trees,  we 
iw  a great  many  small  towns  or  cities,  most  of  them 
bnced  in  with  good  stone  walls,  but  some  with  cane  and 
torn  bushes.  The  land  of  that  country  is  very  good,  and 
lenty  of  corn  grows  on  it,  and  some  rice  and  dates,  and 
re  saw  some  oxen,  sheep,  and  asses,  and  a few  horses, 
'he  inhabitants  are  Moors  and  Arabs  mixed  with  the  ne- 
roes,  and  almost  as  black  as  the  latter ; all  of  our  own 
bligion  : they  are  very  stout  fierce  men,  but  they  did  not 
:tempt  to  molest  us,  and  sold  us  every  thing  we  wanted  at 
cheap  rate  : they  wear  no  clothing  but  a strip  of  cloth 
oout  their  middles,  and  a ring  of  bone  or  ivory  round  the 
'omen’s  ankles  and  wrists,  and  some  beads  in  their  hair  ; 
tey  are  peaceable  people,  and  never  attack  the  caravans 
nless  the  latter  attempt  to  rob  them  : they  are  armed  with 
mskets,  and  with  long  knives,  and  with  bows  and  arrows. 
Vhen  they  are  forced  to  fight,  they  do  it  with  the  greatest 
try,  and  never  take  prisoners  or  receive  quarter,  and  only 
efend  their  rights.  Some  of  the  people  in  our  caravan 
old  us,  that  a few  years  ago  a caravan,  going  from  Tom- 
uctoo  to  Tunis,  Algiers,  &c.  in  passing  through  this 
ountry,  surprised  and  stole  about  four  hundred  of  the 


262 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


inhabitants  for  slaves,  and  a great  number  of  cattle  ant 
much  corn,  and  went  towards  the  desert ; but  these  peo 
pie  assembled  a large  host,  and  came  up  with  them  in  th( 
night  near  the  edge  of  the  desert,  and  cut  the  whole  oil 
them  to  pieces,  though  they  were  more  than  two  thousanc 
men  strong,  and  well  armed  ; only  about  fifty  of  the  peo 
pie  of  the  caravan  escaped  and  got  back  to  Tunis  to  tel 
the  news,  and  they  only  by  riding  on  the  swiftest  camel: 
without  any  loads.  After  having  refreshed  our  camels  fo 
ten  days  in  a beautiful  valley,  where  there  was  a goo< 
stream  of  water  for  them  to  drink,  and  filled  the  sacks  witl 
coals,  we  mounted  up  to  the  desert,  and  steered  on  thi 
fiat  level  away  to  the  north.  As  we  went  along  we  cami 
to  some  small  valleys,  where  the  Arabs  feed  their  camel: 
and  live  on  their  milk,  and  think  themselves  the  mos 
learned,  virtuous,  and  religious  people  in  the  world,  anc 
the  most  happy  too,  though  they  have  neither  bread,  not 
meat,  nor  honey,  nor  any  clothing  but  a rag  tied  rounc 
their  waists,  and  live  in  tents,  wandering  about.  W e steer 
ed  about  north  for  eighteen  days,  when  we  came  to  th( 
usual  watering  place,  called  Weydlah;  here  was  a grea 
deal  of  water  in  a pond,  but  it  was  black  and  quite  salt 
like  the  water  in  the  wells  close  by  the  great  sea  : it  was 
very  dead  and  stinking,  and  tasted  of  sulphur  ; it  is  in  ; 
very  deep  pit  and  difficult  to  get  at,  there  being  only  one 
place  by  which  we  could  lead  the  camels  down  to  the  wa- 
ter : it  is  said  to  be  very  deep  in  the  middle,  and  was  nevei 
known  to  be  dry : it  was  almost  covered  over  by  a thick 
green  scum  : we  could  see  the  tracks  of  wild  beasts,  sucf 
as  tigers  and  lions,  near  the  water.  We  had  seen  a greal 
many  of  these  animals  in  our  travels  to  Wassanah,  and 
when  we  were  coming  from  Tombuctoo  to  the  eastward, 
Our  caravan  consisted  of  about  fifteen  hundred  men,  most 
of  us  well  armed  with  double  barrelled  guns  and  scimitarsj 
and  we  had  about  four  thousand  camels.  It  was  a long 
|Otirney  to  the  next  well ; so  we  stopped  here  six  days 
peaceably,  having  encamped  in  a valley  a little  distance 
evest  of  the  pond  or  lake.  We  had  always  made  the  cam- 
els lie  down  in  a circle,  placing  the  goods  in  the  centre, 
and  the  men  between  the  camels  and  the  goods  : we  had 
two  hundred  men  on  guard,  and  always  ready  for  any 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


263 


nergency.  In  the  night  of  the  sixth  day,  about  two 
ours  after  midnight,  we  were  attacked  by  a very  large 
ody  of  wandering  Arabs  : they  had  got  to  within  a few 
ards  of  us  before  they  were  discovered,  and  poured  in  a 
aost  destructive  fire  of  musketry,  at  the  same  time  Tun- 
ing in  like  hungry  tigers,  with  spears  and  scimitars  in 
leir  hands,  with  dreadful  yellings  : they  threw  the  whole 
aravan  into  confusion  for  a moment ; but  we  were  in  a 
ight  circle,  formed  by  the  camels,  which  with  the  guards 
ept  them  off  for  a short  time,  till  the  whole  of  our  men 
eized  their  arms  and  rallied.  The  battle  now  raged  most 
Liriously  : it  was  cloudy  and  very  dark  ; the  blaze  of  the 
towder  making  only  a faint  light,  whilst  the  cracking  of 
ausketry,  the  clashing  of  swords,  the  shouts  of  the  com- 
-atants,  and  the  bellowiags  of  the  wounded  and  frightened 
amels,  together  with  the  groans  of  the  wounded  and  dying 
nen,  made  the  most  dreadful  and  horrid  uproar  that  can 
»e  conceived.  The  fight  continued  for  about  two  hours, 
land  to  hand  and  breast  to  breast,  when  the  assailants  gave 
vay  and  ran  off,  leaving  their  dead  and  wounded  on  the 
ield  of  battle.  We  remained  with  our  arms  in  our  hands 
ill  night.  I was  wounded  with  a ball  in  my  thigh,  and 
1 kid  with  a dagger  on  his  breast.”  They  then  showed  me 
heir  scars.  “ In  the  morning  we  numbered  our  men,  and 
Found  that  two  hundred  and  thirty  were  killed,  and  about 
ane  hundred  wounded  : three  hundred  of  the  camels  were 
either  slain  or  so  badly  wounded  that  they  could  not  walk, 
and  so  we  killed  them.  We  found  seven  hundred  of  our 
enemies  lying  on  the  ground,  either  dead  or  wounded ; 
those  that  were  badly  wounded,  we  killed,  to  put  them  out 
of  pain,  and  carried  the  others  that  could  walk  along  with 
us  for  slaves  ; of  these  there  were  about  one  hundred.  As 
the  enemy  fled,  they  took  all  their  good  camels  with  them, 
for  they  had  left  them  at  a distance,  so  that  we  only  found 
about  fifty  poor  ones,  which  we  killed  ; but  we  picked  up 
two  hundred  and  twenty  good  double  barrelled  guns  from 
the  ground  : the  gun  which  Seid  now  uses  is  one  of  them  ; 
we  got  also  about  four  hundred  scimitars  or  long  knives. 
We  were  told  by  the  prisoners  that  the  company  who  at- 
tacked us  was  upwards  of  four  thousand  strong,  and  that, 
they  had  been  preparing  for  it  three  moons.  We  were 


264 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


afraid  of  another  attack,  and  went  off  the  same  day,  an 
travelled  all  the  night,  steering  to  the  N.  E.  (out  of  tf 
course  the  caravans  commonly  take)  twenty-three  day: 
journey,  when  we  came  to  a place  called  the  Eight  Well: 
where  we  found  plenty  of  good  water.  Fifty  of  our  me 
had  died,  and  twenty- one  of  the  slaves.  We  remaine 
near  these  good  wells  for  eleven  days  ; our  camels  feedin 
on  the  bushes  in  the  valleys  near  them,  when  we  agai 
travelled  to  the  northwestward  ten  days  to  Twati,  a goo 
watering  place.  For  the  last  three  days  we  waded  throug  J 
deep  sands,  like  those  we  passed  among  while  going  fror  j 
Widnoon.  We  rested  here  two  days,  and  then  went  dow;' 
north,  into  the  country  of  dates,  and  came  to  the  town  c 
Gujelah , a little  strong  place  belonging  to  Tunis — ther 
we  found  plenty  of  fruit  and  good  water,  and  meat  an<j 
milk  : we  stopped  there  ten  days,  and  then  the  part  of  th 
caravan  going  to  Tripoli  left  us  and  went  towards  the  east  l 
by  the  mountains,  and  the  rest  went  on  northeaster!] 
twelve  days  to  Tuggurtah , close  by  a mountain  near  the 
river  Tegsah , that  is  said  to  go  to  the  sea  near  Tunis  ; hen' 
we  stopped  twenty-five  days,  and  the  caravan  for  Tunis  lefi 
us.  Tuggurtah  is  a very  large  city,  with  high  and  thick 
walls,  made  tight,  and  has  a great  many  people  in  it,  all 
of  the  true  religion,  and  a vast  number  of  black  slaves, 
and  a few  white  ones.  After  stopping  here  twenty-five 
days,  we  set  oft’  to  the  northwestward  through  a very  fine 
country,  full  of  date  and  fig  trees,  and  cattle,  and  goats, 
camels,  sheep,  and  asses ; we  then  travelled  ten  days  to 
the  high  mountains,  where  the  caravan  for  Algiers  parted 
from  us,  and  we  remained  with  about  two  hundred  camels 
and  eighty  men  going  to  Fez.  We  then  travelled  over 
the  great  mountain,  which  we  were  told  belongs  to  the 
same  ridge  we  see  close  to  Morocco  and  in  Suse;  (the 
Atlas ; ) and  in  two  moons  more  we  passed  through  Fez, 
where  what  remained  of  the  caravan  stopped,  and  we  re- 
turned to  our  father’s  house,  and  our  families,  on  the  side 
of  the  Atlas  mountains,  near  the  city  of  Morocco,  having 
been  gone  more  than  two  years.  We  brought  back  only 
one  camel,  and  a small  load  of  merchandise,  out  of  the 
eight  camels  richly  loaded  when  we  set  out ; yet  we  thank- 
ed God  for  having  preserved  our  lives;  for  the  whole 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


2 65 


nravan  with  which  wTe  started  had  perished  on  the  desert, 
ad  out  of  the  twenty-eight  men  who  left  it  with  us,  only 
: ur  reached  their  homes,  and  they  on  foot,  and  entirely 
estitute  of  property.  I found  my  wife  and  all  my  chii- 
cen  and  my  father’s  family  in  good  health.  Sheick  Ali 
(lime  to  see  me  as  soon  as  he  got  the  news  of  my  arrival, 

Id  after  staying  with  me  one  moon,  he  invited  me  and 
id  to  go  with  him  to  his  place,  which  invitation  we  ac- 
pted,  and  he  furnished  us  with  one  camel  and  some  haicks 
d blue  cloth,  and  advised  us  to  go  up  on  the  desert  and 
ide  them  away  for  ostrich  feathers,  to  sell  in  Morocco  or 
gvearah ; so,  being  poor,  we  accepted  his  offer,  bought 
Is  goods  and  his  camel,  and  he  was  to  have  been  paid 
pen  we  came  back.  We  set  off  for  the  desert,  and  had 
j.ssed  a great  many  tribes  of  Arabs  without  finding  any 
fithers  of  consequence,  when  the  great  God  directed  our 
lips  to  your  master’s  tent,  and  I saw  vou.  I was  once  as 
Id  a man  as  Seid,  but  I had  been  in  distress  and  in  a 
range  land,  and  had  found  friends  to  keep  me  and  restore 
m to  my  family;  and  when  I saw  you  naked  and  a slave, 
pith  your  skin  and  flesh  burnt  from  your  bones  by  the  sun, 
sd  heard  you  say  you  had  a wife  and  children,  I thought  of 
iy  own  former  distresses,  and  God  softened  my  heart,  and 
3>ecame  your  friend.  I did  all  I could  to  lighten  the  burden 
< your  afflictions : I have  endured  hunger,  thirst,  and  fa- 
ques,  and  have  fought  for  your  sake,  and  have  now  the  high 
jsasure  of  knowing  1 have  done  some  good  in  the  world ; 
id  may  the  great  and  universal  Father  still  protect  you  : 
yu  have  been  true  and  kind  to  me,  and  your  friend  has  fed 
i ; with  milk  and  honey  ; and  1 will  always  in  future  do 
nat  is  in  my  power  to  redeem  Christians  from  slavery.’5 
Here  Sidi  Hamet  finished  his  narration  : he  then  said  he 
wished  to  go  and  see  his  wife  and  children,  and  that  as 
; on  as  he  had  rested  for  a few  days,  he  would  set  oft'  again 
ith  a large  company  to  seek  after  the  rest  of  my  men. 
he  next  morning  I made  him  a small  present,  and  Mr. 
hllshire  also  gave  him  some  fine  powder,  and  many  other 
tail  articles.  After  he  was  prepared  to  go,  he  swore  by 
Is  right  hand,  he  would  bring  up  the  remainder  of  my 
>2\v  if  they  were  to  be  found  alive,  and  God  spared  his 
?•  he  then  took  his  leave  of  me  by  shaking  hands,  and 


266 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


of  all  my  companions,  wishing  us  a happy  sight  of  01 
friends,  and  set  off  for  his  home.  I did  not  part  with  hi 
without  feelings  of  regret  and  shedding  tears ; for  he  h; 
been  a kind  master  to  me,  and  to  him  1 owed,  under  Go 
my  life  and  deliverance  from  slavery;  nor  could  I avo 
reflecting  on  the  wonderful  means  employed  by  Providen 
to  bring  about  my  redemption,  and  that  of  a part  o£  n 
late  unfortunate  crew. 


CHAPTER  XXVL 

An  account  of  the  face  of  the  great  African  Desert , or  Z 
hahrah  ; of  its  inhabitants , their  customs , manners-,  drei 
<sc. — A description  of  the  Arabian  camel  or  dromedar 

In  giving  an  account  of  the  great  western  desert, 
Zahahrah,  and  of  its  inhabitants,  &c.  it  must  be  remet 
bered,  that  in  journeying  across,  or  on  the  desert  when 
slave,  I did  not  go  over  but  a very  small  part,  compat 
lively  speaking,  of  that  extensive  region  ; I cannot  ther 
fore  undertake  to  describe  what  did  not  come  under  n 
own  observation.  I can,  however,  state,  without  fear 
future  contradiction,  the  following  facts,  viz.  that  the  fa 
of  this  desert,  from  about  the  latitude  of  20  to  22  degre 
north,  where  we  were  forced  ashore  in  our  boat,  to  near  t 
latitude  of  28  degrees  north,  and  from  the  longitude  of  Cal 
Barbas , about  1 9 to  11  degrees  west,  is  a smooth  surfac 
consisting  partly  of  solid  rocks,  of  gravel,  sand,  and  ston 
mixed,  and  in  some  places  of  what  is  commonly  calf 
soil : this  mass  is  baked  down  together  in  most  places,  1 
the  extreme  heat  of  the  sun,  nearly  as  hard  as  marble,  i 
that  no  tracks  of  man  or  beast  are  discoverable  ; for  t: 
footstep  leaves  no  impression.  The  whole  surface  is 
smooth,  when  viewed  on  every  side,  as  the  plain  of  t! 
ocean  unruffled  by  winds  or  tempests,  stretching  out 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach ; not  a break  that  might  serve 
a landmark,  or  guide  to  the  traveller  ; not  a tree,  shru 
or  any  other  object,  to  interrupt  the  view  within  the  hojj 
son  ; the  whole  is  in  appearance  a dreary  waste  t the  st! 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


267 


; in  colour  of  a light  reddish  brown  : not  a stream  of  water 
at  least  for  many  centuries  past)  has  refreshed  this  region, 
•hich  is  doomed  to  eternal  barrenness  ; but  as  we  went 
brward  on  this  flat  hard  surface,  we  met  from  distance  to 
istance  with  small  valleys  or  dells,  scooped  out,  in  appear - 
nce,  by  the  hand  of  nature,  from  five  to  thirty  feet  below 
le  plain — those  we  saw  and  stopped  in  were  ten,  fifteen, 
ad  twenty  miles  apart,  and  contained  from  one  to  four  or 
ve  acres  each — they  seem  to  serve  as  receptacles  for  the 
ttle  rain  water  which  falls  on  the  desert ; for  the  inhabi- 
ints  always  expect  some  in  the  winter  months,  though 
ley  are  frequently  disappointed ; and  none  had  fallen  on 
lose  parts  on  which  we  were  thrown  for  the  last  two  years. 

It  was  already  September,  and  they  were  offering  up 

frayers  to  the  Almighty  every  day,  and  most  fervently  im- 
loring  him  to  send  them  refreshing  rains.  These  little 
illeys  appear  mostly  in  the  form  of  a bowl,  though  in 
)tne  the  sides  are  steep,  and  bottoms  nearly  level,  and 
te  whole  irregular.  Here  grows  a dwarf  thorn  bush,  from 
vo  to  five  feet  in  height ; it  is  generally  scattered  thinly 
rer  the  valley.  The  leaves  of  this  shrub,  which  is  almost 
le  only  one  that  is  to  be  found  on  that  part  of  the  desert, 
■e  a fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  one  and  a half  inches 
i width,  and  from  two  to  two  and  a half  inches  in  length, 
Itpering  to  a sharp  point,  and  are  strongly  impregnated 
ith  salt,  so  much  so,  that  neither  myself  nor  my  com- 
. anions  could  eat  them,  though  nearly  perishing  with  hun- 
ger and  thirst,  and  a green  fresh  leaf  would  have  been  a 
reat  relief  to  us,  when  neither  meat  nor  drink  was  to  be 
rocured.  Such  is  the  face  of  the  desert  over  which  we 
Classed,  until  we  came  within  a short  distance  of  Cape 
iajador,  where  we  fell  in  with  immense  heaps  of  loose  sand, 
irming  mountains  of  from  one  to  three  or  four  hundred 
ret  in  height,  blown  and  whirled  about  by  every  wind, 
ad  dreadful  to  the  traveller,  should  a strong  gale  arise  from 
le  southward  whilst  in  the  midst  of  them  ; for  be  and  his 
easts  must  then  inevitably  perish,  overwhelmed  by  flying 
arges  of  suffocating  sand. 

The  face  of  this  part  of  the  desert  is  still  the  same  as 
lat  before  described,  when  laid  bare  and  seen  between  the 
and  hills,  by  reason  of  the  sand  being  blown  off  This 


2 68 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


sand  has  evidently  been  driven  from  the  sea-shore,  and  : 
the  same  degree  as  the  ocean  has  retired,  by  means  of  til! 
trade  wind  blowing  constantly  on  to  the  desert,  and  that  tc 
very  strongly  in  the  night-time,  through  a long  successic 
of  ages.  The  heavy  surf  dashing  perpetually  among  tl 
rocks,  gradually  reduces  them  to  grit,  which  then  rnixil 
with  the  sand  that  is  washed  up  upon  the  shore,,  where 
is  left  by  the  tides  that  rise  on  .this  coast  to  the  height  I 
twelve  or  fourteen  feet,  and  only  once  in  twenty-four  hour; 
this  becomes  dried  by  the  excessive  heat  of  the  sun,  ar 
is  whirled  about  and  driven  before  this  constant  gale,  upc 
the  surface,  and  then  into  the  interior  of  the  desei 
Such  have  unquestionably  been  the  causes  which  have  pri 
duced  such  astonishing  accumulations  of  sand  on  that  pa 
of  the  desert ; and  I am  further  confirmed  in  this  beli 
by  the  enormous  strings  of  sand  hills  to  be  found  all  alon 
the  coast  of  Suse  and  Morocco,  near  the  sea-shore.  The: 
accumulations  are  in  many  parts  so  great,  as  to  have  raise 
new  bounds  to  the  ocean  some  miles  beyond  its  origin 
limits,  which  have  evidently  been  washed  by  the  sea  at 
former  period,  and  the  intermediate  spaces  are  filled  u 
with  loose  sand  hills  ; which  circumstances  all  togethi 
amount,  in  my  opinion,  to  a demonstration  of  the  origi 
of  the  sand  on  this  part  of  the  desert. 

Some  authors  have  supposed  that  there  were  many  fei 
tile  spots  on  the  great  western  desert  which  were  cult 
vated,  &c.  &c.  but  this  is,  I think,  an  impossibility  : tl 
whole  desert  being  a level  plain,  it  can  produce  neitht 
spring  or  stream  of  water,  and  no  herbage  can  const 
quently  grow  unless  by  means  of  rain,  and  this  falls  on  tli 
desert  so  seldom,  and  is  so  soon  evaporated,  as  to  rendt 
even  a passage  across  it  with  a caravan  of  Arabs  and  cant 
els,  at  all  times  dangerous  in  the  extreme,  as  is  proved  b 
Sidi  Hamet’s  narrative  of  his  journeys,  connected  wit 
my  own  observations.  That  there  are  more  shrubs  grow 
ing  in  some  parts  than  in  others,  is  true,  from  natur; 
causes.  This  smooth  dry  surface  can  produce  no  vapoui 
and  if  it  did,  there  are  no  breaks  or  mountains  to  arrest  i 
and  it  flies  off  to  the  north  or  south,  where  more  is  prc 
duced  : the  neighbourhood  of  mountains  condenses  th 
atmosphere  and  produces  the  rain,  which  is  driven  som« 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


269 


mes  only  from  thence  on  to  the  desert  by  strong  gales, 
nd  even  then  in  scanty  quantities.  The  small  valleys  or 
ells  which  now  furnish  a scanty  subsistence  for  the  hardy 
amel,  and  that  only  by  feeding  on  the  coarsest  shrubs  and 
.'aves,  serve  as  basins  to  catch  the  little  water  that  some- 
mes  falls  there  : this  is  immediately  dried  away  by  the 
itense  heat  of  the  sun,  which  beats  down  upon  the  sur- 
ice  in  all  parts  most  violently,  and  scorches  like  actual 
re  ; — yet  that  moisture,  little  as  it  is,  causes  the  growth 
|f  the  dwarf  thorn  bush,  and  of  two  or  three  other  prickly 
hints,  resembling  weeds ; these  grow  only  among  sand, 
nd  there  are  spots  on  the  desert  which  produce  a shrub 
lat  grows  up  in  a bunch  at  the  bottom  as  thick  as  a man’s 
>g,  and  then  branches  off  in  every  direction  to  the  height 
f two  feet,  with  a diameter  of  four  or  five  feet.  Each 
ranch  is  two  or  three  inches  in  circumference,  and  they 
re  fluted  like  pillars  or  columns  in  architecture,  and  al- 
iost  square  at  their  tops  : these  are  armed  with  small  sharp 
rickles  all  over,  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  yield, 
/hen  broken  off,  a whitish  liquid  that  is  very  nauseous, 
nd  bites  the  tongue  like  aqua-fortis,  so  that  the  camels 
/ill  nip  it  off  only  when  they  can  find  nothing  else  : they 
re  so  numerous  in  some  places,  that  it  is  difficult  for  the 
amels  to  get  along  amongst  them,  and  they  are  obliged  to 
.odge  about  between  these  bunches.  This  plant  resem- 
iles  a chandelier  in  appearance  : the  barren  mountains  of 
iuse  are  nearly  covered  with  it : I believe  it  is  a species 
if  euphorbium,  and  each  of  the  branches  were  surmount- 
d at  that  time  with  a red  blossom  of  three  or  four  leaves, 
lalf  an  inch  long,  resembling  in  some  degree  the  blaze  of 
. candle  ; from  this  flower  the  bees  that  are  found  in  such 
juantities  in  Suse  extract  their  honey. 

In  many  valleys  the  thorn  bushes  furnish  a few  snails. 
\ few  ground  nuts  are  also  to  be  found,  resembling  in 
ihape  and  size  small  onions;  and  there  are  also  to  be  seen 
inder  the  shade  of  the  thorn  bushes,  an  herb  known  by 
he  name  of  shepherds’  sprouts  in  America  ; but  like  the 
)ther  things  before  mentioned,  they  are  very  rarely  to  be 
net  with.  These  are,  as  far  as  came  within  my  knowledge, 
he  whole  of  the  productions  of  the  desert. 

It  has  been  imagined  by  many,  that  the  desert  abound- 


270  CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 

ed  in  noxious  animals,  serpents,  and  other  reptiles  ; b 
we  saw  none,  nor  is  it  possible  for  any  animal  that  requir 
water  to  exist  on  the  desert  of  Zahahrah,  unless  it  is  und 
the  care  of,  and  assisted  by  man  in  procuring  that  nece 
sarv  article.  I saw  no  animal  that  was  wild,  except  tl 
ostrich,  nor  can  I conceive  how  that  animal  exists  witho 
fresh  water,  which  it  is  certain  he  cannot  procure,  n 
what  kind  of  nourishment  he  subsists  on.  There  are  ne 
iher  beasts,  nor  birds,  nor  reptiles,  to  be  seen  on  th| 
dreary  waste  on  which  we  travelled,  and  it  is  certain  th! 
there  are  other  districts  still  worse,  bearing  not  the  smalle 
herb  nor  bush  wherewith  the  camel  can  fill  his  stomacl 
but  near  the  borders  of  the  desert,  where  more  shrubs  a 
produced,  sheep  and  goats  are  fed  in  considerable  nun 
bers,  and  we  saw  many  of  those  light-footed  and  beautif 
animals  called  the  Gazelle , tripping  across  the  sand  hill 
and  near  watering  places ; some  tigers  also  now  and  the 
made  their  appearance.  Such  is  the  great  western  deserr 
or  Zahahrah,  which  can  only  afford  a description  as  dt 
and  as  barren  as  its  dreary  surface.  For  its  extent,  sc i 
the  map. 

Nearly  all  parts  of  this  vast  desert  are  inhabited  by  di| 
ferent  tribes  of  Arabs,  who  live  entirely  on  the  milk  c , 
their  camels,  and  wander  from  valley  to  valley,  travellin 
nearly  every  day  for  the  sake  of  finding  food  for  their  can 
els,  and  consequently  food  for  themselves : they  live  i 
tents  formed  of  cloth  made  of  camels’  hair,  which  the 
pull  off  by  hand,  and  spin  with  a hand  spindle  ; this  the 
twist  round  with  the  fore- finger  and  thumb  of  the  righ 
hand,  after  they  have  pulled  out  the  thread  sufficiently  Ion 
from  a bunch  of  camels’  hair,  which  they  hold  in  their  le 
hand,  whilst  the  spindle  descends  to  the  ground,  whe 
they  take  it  up  in  their  hand  again,  and  wind  off  the  yar 
in  a ball,  and  then  spin  another  length  in  like  manner  : the 
afterwards  double  and  twist  it  by  hand,  making  a threai 
as  thick  as  a goose  quill.  When  they  have  spun  a suffi 
cient  quantity,  and  have  agreed  to  stop  for  two  or  threi 
clays  in  one  place,  (which  they  always  do  when  they  cai 
find  sufficient  food  for  their  camels,)  they  drive  into  the 
ground  two  rows  of  pegs,  in  parallel  lines,  sufficiently 
wide  for  a tent  cloth,  that  is,  about  two  and  a half  fee 


OBSERVATION'S  ON  AFRICA. 


271 


:>art : they  then  warp  the  yarn  round  the  pegs,  and  eom- 
j ence  weaving  it  by  running  a kind  of  wooden  sword 
1 rough  the  yarn  under  one  thread  and  over  another,  in 
tie  manner  of  darning  : this  sword  they  carry  with  them, 

; cl  it  appears  to  have  been  used  for  ages  : they  then  tuck 
rough  the  filling  by  hand,  after  turning  up  the  sword 
dgeways,  haul  it  tight,  and  beat  it  up  with  the  sword,  as 
3 presented  in  plate  No.  6.  They  weave  it  the  whole 
Jhgth  which  they  intend  the  tent  to  be,  and  then  roll  up 
tie  pieces  or  length,  until  they  have  made  enough  to  finish 
atent.  This,  in  my  opinion,  must  have  been  the  very 
fjrst  method  of  weaving  practised  in  the  world,  and  the 
iea,  I imagine,  was  taken  from  a view  of  the  outer  bark 
( the  cocoa-nut  tree,  as  I have  before  observed.  The 
tint  is  then  sewed  together  with  the  same  kind  of  twine, 

(rough  holes  made  with  an  iron  bodkin.  After  it  is  sewed 
gether  to  a proper  width,  from  six  to  ten  breadths,  they 
iake  four  loops  on  its  ends,  by  fastening  short  crooked 
neks  to  the  cloth,  and  two  on  each  side.  When  they  are 
nout  to  pitch  the  tent,  they  spread  it  out,  stretching  the 
ords  by  which  it  is  fastened,  and  driving  a stout  peg  into 
le  ground  for  each  cord  ; this  is  done  with  a hard  smooth 
:one,  which  they  always  carry  with  them,  in  place  of  a 
limmer ; then  getting  under  the  tent  and  raising  it,  they 
ace  a block,  whose  top  is  rounded  like  a wooden  bowl, 
ader  its  centre,  and  set  the  tent  pole  into  a hole  made  for 
lat  purpose,  and  set  the  pole  upright,  which  keeps  the 
nt  steady  in  its  place.  After  the  tent  is  raised,  all  the 
>pes  that  hold  and  steady  it  (ten  in  number)  are  tauten- 
1 : these  ropes  are  made  of  skins  partly  dressed,  or  of 
imels’  hair,  so  that  the  tent  is  suspended  in  form  of  an 
along  umbrella,  and  the  lower  edge  is  about  two  feet 
om  the  ground.  In  the  day-time  they  raise  up  the  south 
art  of  their  tents  (as  those  on  the  desert  are  always  pitch- 
I facing  the  south)  with  two  small  stanchions  fixed  un- 
er  the  cords  that  hold  it  in  front,  so  that  they  can  go 
nder  the  tent  by  stooping  : this  tent  serves  all  the  family 
>r  a shelter.  Each  family  has  a mat,  which  serves  as  a 
ed  for  the  whole  : they  lie  clown  on  it  promiscuously,  only 
'rapped  up  in  their  haick  or  blanket,  if  they  have  one’; 
not,  in  the  skin  that  covers  their  loins  only,  and  lie  close 


272 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


together,  to  keep  off  the  cold  winds  which  blow  under  t 
tents  in  the  night : the  children  lie  between  the  grown  pe 
sons ; their  heads  are  as  low,  and  frequently  lower  th; 
their  feet,  and  their  long  bushy  hair,  which  is  never  com 
ed,  and  resembles  a woollen  thrumb  mop,  serves  the 
instead  of  a pillow.  The  families  consist  of  the  fath( 
and  one  or  more  wives,  and  the  children  that  are  unma 
ried,  (generally  about  four  to  a family,  but  sometimes  s 
or  eight,)  and  their  slaves,  who  are  blacks. 

The  rich  Arabs  have  one,  two,  or  three  slaves,  mal 
and  female  ; these  are  allowed  to  sleep  on  the  same  m 
with  their  masters  and  mistresses,  and  are  treated  in  ; 
respects  like  the  children  of  the  family  in  regard  to  appan 
&c. ; they  are  not,  however,  permitted  to  marry  or  cohal 
with  the  Arab  women,  under  pain  of  death,  and  are  oblige 
to  take  care  of  the  camels  and  follow  them,  and  to  do  oth 
drudgery,  such  as  getting  fuel,  &c.  but  they  will  n 
obey  the  women,  and  raise  their  voices  higher  than  the 
master  or  any  of  his  children  in  a dispute,  and  cons 
quently  are  considered  smart  fellows.  They  marry  amor 
their  own  colour  while  they  are  slaves,  with  the  consent 
their  masters,  but  the  children  remain  slaves.  After 
slave  has  served  his  master  faithfully  for  a long  time,  or  h; 
done  him  some  essential  service,  he  is  made  free  : he  tilt 
enters  into  all  the  privileges  that  the  free  Arabs  enjoy,  an 
can  marry  into  any  of  their  families,  which  he  or  she  nev< 
fails  to  do,  and  thus  become  identified  with  the  familitj 
of  the  tribe  in  which  they  were  slaves,  and  may  rise  to  tl 
very  head  of  it.  The  negroes  are  generally  active  an 
brave,  are  seldom  punished  with  stripes,  and  those  wl 
drive  the  camels  do  not  scruple  to  milk  them  when  they  ai 
thirsty,  but  take  care  not  to  be  discovered  : they  are  e> 
tremely  cunning,  and  will  steal  any  thing  they  can  get  at  < 
eat  or  drink,  from  their  masters,  or  indeed  any  one  els< 
If  they  are  caught  in  the  act  of  stealing,  they  are  onl 
threatened,  and  promised  a flogging  the  next  time,  (th 
being  the  common  practice  of  their  masters.)  The  fatht 
of  the  family  is  its  absolute  chief  in  all  respects,  thoug 
he  seldom  inflicts  punishment : his  wives  and  daughters  ai 
considered  as  mere  slaves,  subject  to  his  will  or  caprice 
yet  they  take  every  opportunity  to  deceive  or  steal  fror 


273 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 

im  : he  deals  out  the  milk  to  each  with  his  own  hand,  nor 
are  any  one  touch  it  until  it  is  thus  divided  : he  always 
ssists  in  milking  the  camels,  then  puts  the  milk  into  a 
rge  wooden  bowl,  which  has  probably  been  in  the  fami- 
for  ages  : some  of  the  largest  bowls  will  contain  five 
illons : they  are  frequently  split  in  every  direction,  and 
le  split  parts  are  fastened  together  with  small  iron  plates, 
ith  a rivet  at  each  end,  made  of  the  same  metal.  All 

(e  milk  is  thrown  into  the  great  bowl;  then,  if  in  the  old 
an’s  opinion,  there  is  a sufficient  quantity  for  a good 
ink  round,  he  takes  a small  bowl,  (of  which  sort  they 
nerally  have  two  or  three,)  and  after  washing  or  rubbing 
i with  dry  sand,  he  begins  to  distribute  the  milk,  by 
ving  to  each  grown  person  an  equal  share,  and  to  the 
lildren  in  proportion  to  their  size,  measuring  it  very 
cactly,  and  taking  a proportionate  quantity  to  himself, 
there  is  any  left,  (which  was  very  seldom  the  case  with 
ose  I lived  among,)  he  has  it  put  into  a skin,  to  serve 

{r  a drink  at  noon  the  next  day  : if  there  is  not  a sufficient 
lantity  of  milk  for  a good  drink  all  round,  the  old  man 
Is  it  up  with  water  (if  they  have  any)  to  a certain  mark 
1 the  bowl,  and  then  proceeds  to  divide  it  as  before  re- 
lied. 

The  camels  are  driven  out  early  in  the  morning,  and 
bme  about  dark,  when  they  are  made  to  lie  down  before 
te  tent  of  their  owner,  very  near,  with  their  tails  towards 
i:  a doubled  rope  with  a large  knot  in  one  end  is  then 
pt  round  the  knee  joint  when  the  leg  is  doubled  in,  and 
te  knot  being  thrust  through  the  doubled  part  at  the 
(her  end,  effectually  fastens  the  knee  bent  as  it  is,  so  that 
ie  camel  cannot  get  up  to  walk  off,  having  but  the  use 
< three  of  his  legs.  This  kind  of  becket  is  also  fixed 
<t  the  knees  of  the  old  camels  that  lead  the  drove;  and 
le  others  remain  quiet  when  their  leaders  are  fast : in  this 
mnner  they  are  suffered  to  lie  until  about  midnight,  when 
'ey  have  had  time  to  cool  and  the  milk  to  collect  in  their 
Kgs — the  becket  is  then  taken  off,  and  as  soon  as  they 
s t up,  the  net  which  covers  the  bag  to  prevent  the  young 
nes  irom  consuming  the  mnk,  is  loosened  : this  is  fasten  - 
<i  on  by  two  cords,  that  go  over  the  back  of  the  camel, 

: d are  knotted  together.  As  each  camel  is  milked,  the 

35 


274 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


net  is  carefully  replaced,  and  she  is  made  to  lie  down  i 
the  same  place  again  : here  they  lie  until  daylight,  whe 
all  the  camels  are  made  to  get  up  ; a little  milk  is  the 
drawn  from  each,  and  the  young  ones  are  suffered  to  sue 
out  the  remainder,  when  the  net  is  put  in  its  place  agaii 
not  to  be  removed  until  the  following  midnight.  Whi 
the  head  of  the  family  is  busied  milking  the  camels  an 
suckling  the  young  ones,  assisted  by  all  the  males,  tl 
wife  and  females  are  striking  and  folding  up  the  tent,  s 
lecting  the  camels  to  carry  the  stuff,  and  bringing  the] 
near,  where  they  make  them  lie  down  and  pack  on  the: 
the  tent  and  all  their  other  materials.  This  being  don 
they  fasten  a leather  or  skin  basket,  about  four  feet  wid 
fitted  with  a kind  of  tree,  like  a saddle,  on  the  back  of  or 
of  the  tamest  camels,  in  which  the  women  place  the  o 
men  and  women  that  cannot  walk,  and  young  childrei 
and  frequently  themselves,  and  proceed  forward  accon 
ing  to  their  daily  custom.  The  women  take  care  of  tl 
stuff'  and  the  camels  that  carry  it,  and  of  the  children:  tl 
other  camels  are  driven  off  by  slaves,  if  they  have  any, 
not,  by  some  of  the  boys,  and  kept  where  there  are  son 
shrubs  to  be  found,  until  night.  The  old  man,  or  her 
of  the  family,  generally  precedes  the  women  and  stuff,  a 
ter  having  described  to  them  the  course  they  are  to  stee  l 
He  sets  off  on  his  camel,  with  his  gun  in  his  hand,  at  a fu 
trot,  and  goes  on  until  he  finds  a fit  place  in  which  to  pitc 
the  tent,  when  he  gives  the  information  to  his  wife,  wo 
then  proceeds  with  all  possible  despatch  to  the  spot,  in 
loads  her  camels,  and  lets  them  go ; then  she  spreads  lv 
tent,  puts  all  the  stuff  under  it,  clears  away  the  sms 
stones,  and  spreads  her  mat,  arranges  her  bowls,  hant 
up  the  skins  containing  water,  (if  they  have  any,)  on  a kiitj 
of  horse  or  frame  that  folds  together,  &c.  &cc.  They  sta 
long  before  sun-rising  in  the  morning,  and  calculate  t 
pitch  their  tents  at  about  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon, 
they  can  find  a convenient  spot ; otherwise  a little  soom 
or  later.  When  one  family  sets  off,  the  whole  of  that  pa: 
of  the  tribe  dwelling  near  travel  on  with  them  ; and  I hav 
frequently  seen  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand  came 
in  one  drove,  all  going  the  same  way,  and  I was  greatl 
surprised  to  see  with  what  facility  they  could  distinguis 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


275 


nd  separate  them ; each  knowing  his  own  camels,  even 
d the  smallest : they  would  sometimes  march  together  for 
alf  a day  ; then  in  a few  minutes  they  would  separate, 
nd  each  take  his  own  course,  and  would  generally  pitch 
'ithin  a few  miles  of  each  other.  As  soon  as  the  place 
; agreed  on,  the  men  go  out  on  their  camels,  with  their 
uns,  different  ways,  to  reconnoitre  and  see  if  they  have 
nemies  near. 

When  they  rise  in  the  morning,  after  having  first  milked 
teir  camels,  and  suckled  the  young  ones,  they  next  attend 
o prayers,  which  is  done  in  the  following  manner  : they 
rst  find  a sandy  spot,  then  unwrap  themselves,  and  take 
p sand  in  both  their  hands ; with  this  they  rub  their 
ices,  necks,  arms,  legs,  and  every  part  of  their  bodies, 
xcept  their  backs,  which  they  cannot  reach  : this  done, 
3 if  they  washed  with  water,  they  stand  erect,  facing 
Wards  the  east ; wrap  themselves  up  as  neatly  as  they 
an  in  their  blankets  or  skins  ; they  look  up  towards  hea- 
en,  and  then  bow  their  heads,  bending  their  bodies  half 
ray  to  the  ground,  twice,  crying  aloud  at  each  time,  Al- 
ih  Hooakibar.  They  next  kneel  down,  and  supporting 
lemselves  with  their  hands,  they  worship,  bowing  their 
ices  in  the  dust,  twice  successively  ; then,  being  still  on 
leir  knees,  they  bend  themselves  forward,  nearly  to  the 
round,  repeating,  Hi  el  Allah-  Sheda  Mohammed — Rah- 
iol  Allah  ; then  rising,  they  again  repeat,  Allah  Hooaki- 
zr,  two  or  three  times  ; and  this  is  the  common  mode 
f worshipping  four  times  a day.  In  addition  to  this,  at 
an-setting,  they  implore  the  Almighty  to  send  rain  to 
loisten  the  parched  earth  ; to  cause  the  food  to  grow  for 
leir  camels  ; to  keep  them  under  his  special  care,  with 
icir  families  and  tribes  ; to  enrich  them  with  the  spoils  of 
teir  enemies,  and  to  confound  and  destroy  them  that  seek 
leir  hurt : they  thank  the  Almighty  for  his  past  mercies, 
ir  food,  raiment,  and  his  protection,  &c.  See.  ; they  then 
jepeat  part  of  a chapter  from  the  Koran,  in  which  God’s 
retended  promises  to  the  faithful  are  made  known  by 
leir  prophet ; and  repeating  at  all  times  the  Hi  el  Allah , 
r,  “ Great  is  the  Almighty  God,  and  Mohammed  is  his 
oly  prophet.”  Their  times  of  prayer  are,  before  sun- 
ising  in  the  morning,  about  noon,  the  middle  of  the 


276 


CAPTAIN  RILE  P’S  NARRATIVE. 


afternoon,  about  sun-setting,  and  again  two  or  three  hod; 
after  the  sun  has  set : this  makes  five  times  a day,  was 
ing  themselves  (at  least  their  faces  and  hands,  when  th 
have  water)  before  praying  ; when  they  cannot  get  wat<  j 
(which  is  always  the  case  with  those  on  the  desert,)  th  i 
perform  their  ablutions  by  substituting  sand.  Mohan, 
med,  their  prophet,  when  he  arrived  with  an  army  on  t 
deserts  of  Arabia,  found  that  there  was  no  water  either  1 
himself  or  his  followers  to  wash  in;  yet  by  the  laws  i 
had  already  promulgated,  ablutions  could  not  be  dispensi 
with  ; a new  chapter,  however,  of  revelation,  soon  i 
lieved  him  from  this  dilemma,  and  he  directed  his  follo\ 
ers  to  use  sand,  when  no  water  was  to  be  had.  In  t 
ninth  chapter  of  the  Book  of  Numbers,  it  appears  th 
Moses,  in  a similar  dilemma,  found  it  necessary  to  app  i 
for  a new  command  from  the  Lord  on  a particular  su  i 

ject- 

The  Arabs  always  wash  when  it  is  in  their  power,  b i 
fore  they  eat,  nor  does  any  business  divert  them  from  tl 
strict  observance  of  their  religious  ceremonies  : and  wi 
respect  to  particular  stated  times,  while  pursuing  the 
journies,  and  going  on  in  the  greatest  haste,  when  tl| 
time  for  prayers  arrives,  all  stop,  make  the  camels  1 
down,  and  perform  what  they  conceive  to  be  their  indi 
pensable  duty  ; praying,  in  addition  to  the  usual  forms, 
be  directed  in  the  right  course,  and  that  God  will  lee 
them  to  wells  of  living  water,  and  to  hospitable  brethrei 
who  will  feed  them,  and  not  suffer  them  to  perish  f 
from  the  face  of  man  ; that  he  will  enrich  them  wil 
spoils,  and  deliver  them  from  all  who  lie  in  wait  to  d 
them  mischief : this  done,  they  mount  again  cheerfulh 
and  proceed,  encouraging  their  camels  by  a song,  a ver 
lively  one,  if  they  wish  them  to  go  on  a trot ; if  only  t 
walk,  something  more  slow  and  solemn. 

The  Arabs  who  inhabit  the  great  westeril  desert,  are  i, 
their  persons  about  five  feet  seven  or  eight  inches  i 
height ; and  tolerably  well  set  in  their  frames,  though  lean 
their  complexion  is  of  a dark  olive  : they  have  high  chee 
bones,  and  aquiline  noses,  rather  prominent ; lank  cheeks 
thin  lips,  and  rounded  chins  : their  eyes  are  black,  spark 
ling,  and  intelligent ; they  have  long  black  hair,  coarse! 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


277 


h!1  very  thick  ; and  the  men  cut  their’s  off  with  their 
{jives,  to  the  length  of  about  six  or  eight  inches,  and 
eve  it  sticking  out  in  every  direction  from  their  heads 
ly  all  wear  long  beards  : their  limbs  are  straight,  and 
ly  can  endure  hunger,  thirst,  hardships,  and  fatigues, 
j ibably  better  than  any  other  people  under  heaven  : their 
r‘lthing  in  general  is  nothing  more  than  a piece  of  coarse 
ffi'th,  made  of  camels1  hair,  tied  round  their  waists,  hang- 

I nearly  down  to  their  knees  ; or  a goat-skin  so  fasten- 
on,  as  to  cover  their  nakedness  ; but  some  of  the  rich 
s wear  a covering  of  linen  or  cotton  cloth  over  their 
ulders,  to  their  knees,  hanging  something  like  a shift 
hirt,  without  sleeves ; and  some  have,  besdies,  a haick 
woollen  blanket,  about  four  feet  wide,  and  four  yards 
which  they  wrap  about  them  ; but  this  is  the  case 
t with  the  rich,  and  their  number  is  very  small.  These 
:ks  and  blue  shirts  they  get  from  the  empire  of  Mo- 
10,  in  exchange  for  camels’  hair  and  ostrich  feathers  ; 

5 only  commodities  in  which  they  can  trade.  The 
ib  women  are  short  and  meager,  and  their  features 
ch  harder  and  more  ugly  than  those  of  the  men  ; but 
i y have  long  black  hair,  which  they  braid  and  tuck  up 
a bunch  on  their  heads,  and  fasten  it  there  by  means 
thorns.  They  generally  wear  strings  of  black  beads 
nd  their  necks,  and  a white  circular  bone,  of  three 
nhes  in  diameter,  in  their  hair,  with  bands  of  beads  or 
er  ornaments  around  their  wrists  and  ankles.  Their 
ek  bones  are  high  and  prominent ; their  visages  and 
> are  thin,  and  the  upper  lip  is  kept  up  by  means  of 
1 two  eye-teeth.  They  take  great  pains  to  make  these 
eth  project  forward,  and  turn  up  quite  in  front  of  the 
tale  of  their  other  fore-teeth,  which  are  as  white  and  sound 
\:  ivory'-.  Their  eyes  are  round,  black,  and  sparkling, 

• ■y  expressive,  and  extremely  beautiful,  particularly  in 
th  young  women,  who  are  generally  plump  and  lascivi- 
3 3.  The  women  wear  a dress  of  coarse  camels’  hair 
c th,  which  they  manufacture  in  the  same  way  they  make 
thir  tent  cloth : it  covers  their  shoulders,  leaving  their 
a ns  and  breasts  naked  ; it  is  sewed  up  on  each  side,  and 
f;ls  down  nearly  to  their  knees  ; they  have  a fold  in  this, 
lie  a sack,  next  their  skin  on  their  shoulders,  in  which 


278 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


they  carry  their  little  children  ; and  the  breasts  of  [ 
middle  aged  women  become  so  extremely  long,  lank,  ji 
pendulous,  (being  in  appearance  not  unlike  a wrinkl 
stocking  with  a small  bunch  at  the  bottom,)  that  they  h; 
no  other  trouble  in  nursing  the  child  which  is  on  tlj 
backs,  when  walking  about,  than  to  throw  up  their  brea  i 
over  the  top  of  their  shoulders,  so  that  the  child  may  J 
ply  its  lips. 

All  the  Arabs  go  barefoot;  the  children,  both  nfl 
and  female,  before  they  come  to  the  age  of  puberty,  j 
about  entirely  naked,  and  this  exposure  to  the  sun  is  i 
great  cause  of  their  black  colour.  The  males  are  all  i 
cumcised  at  the  age  of  eight  years,  not  as  a religious  r 
but  because  it  is  found  necessary  as  a preventive  of  a <j 
ease  incident  to  the  climate,  (the  venereal.)  The  men 
very  quick,  active,  and  intelligent — more  so,  taken  c 
lectively,  than  any  other  set  of  men  I had  ever  coj 
across  in  the  different  parts  of  the  world  I had  bef  i 
visited.  They  are  the  lords  and  masters  in  their  famil: 
and  are  very  severe  and  cruel  to  their  wives,  whom  tl 
treat  as  mere  necessary  slaves,  and  they  do  not  alls 
them  even  as  much  liberty  as  they  grant  to  their  negre 
either  in  speech  or  action  : they  are  considered  by 
men  as  beings  without  souls,  and  consequently,  they 
not  permitted  to  join  in  their  devotions,  but  are  kept  c< 
stantly  drudging  at  something  or  other,  and  are  seld 
allowed  to  speak  when  men  are  conversing  togetb 
They  are  very  filthy  in  their  persons,  not  even  cleans! 
themselves  with  sand,  and  are  covered  with  vermin.  1 
continual  harsh  treatment,  and  hard  drudgery  to  whil 
they  are  subject,  have  worn  off  that  fine  edge  of  delicai, 
sensibility,  and  compassion,  so  natural  to  their  sex,  a 
transformed  them  into  unfeeling  and  unpitying  beings; 
much  so,  that  their  conduct  towards  me  and  my  comp; 
ions  in  distress,  was  brutal  in  the  extreme,  and  betray 
the  extinction  of  every  humane  and  generous  feeling. 

The  Arab  is  high-spirited,  brave,  avaricious,  rapacioi 
revengeful ; and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  is  at  the  sat 
time  hospitable  and  compassionate  : he  is  proud  of  bei 
able  to  maintain  his  independence,  though  on  a drea 
desert,  and  despises  those  who  are  so  mean  and  degrad 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


279 


s to  submit  to  any  government  but  that  of  the  Most 
i^h.  He  struts  about  sole  master  of  what  wealth  he 
k sesses,  always  ready  to  defend  it,  and  believes  himself 
h happiest  of  men,  and  the  most  learned  also  ; handing 
uvn  the  tradition  of  his  ancestors,  as  he  is  persuaded, 

: many  thousands  of  years.  He  looks  upon  all  other 
n to  be  vile,  and  beneath  his  notice,  except  as  mer- 
ndise  : he  is  content  to  live  on  the  milk  of  his  camels, 
ich  he  takes  great  care  to  rear,  and  thanks  his  God 
y for  his  continual  mercies.  They  considered  them- 
es as  much  above  me  and  my  companions,  both  in 
dlect  and  acquired  knowledge,  as  the  proud  and  pam- 
ed  West- India  planter  (long  accustomed  to  rule  over 
/es)  fancies  himself  above  the  meanest  new  negro,  just 
light  in  chains  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  They  never 
rect  their  male  children,  but  the  females  are  beat 
hout  mercy.  The  men  were  not  cruel  to  us  farther 
i they  thought  we  were  obstinate,  and  always  gave 
i small  share  of  what  they  themselves  had  to  subsist 

■ 

never  witnessed  a marriage  among  them,  but  was 
1 that  when  a young  man  sees  a girl  that  pleases  him, 
asks  her  of  her  father,  and  she  becomes  his  wife  with- 

ceremony.  Polygamy  is  allowed,  but  the  Arabs  of 
f desert  have  but  very  seldom  more  than  one  wife, 
less  amongst  some  of  the  rich  ones,  who  have  need 
»i servants,  when  they  take  another  wife,  and  sometimes 
lird. 

They  all  learn  to  read  and  write  : in  every  family  or 
liision  of  a tribe,  they  have  one  man  who  acts  as  teacher 
c the  children  : they  have  boards  of  from  one  foot  square 
i|two  feet  long,  and  about  an  inch  thick  by  eighteen 
tikes  wide  : on  these  boards  the  children  learn  to  write 
a h a piece  of  pointed  reed ; they  have  the  secret  of 
1 king  ink,  and  that  of  a very  black  dye  : when  a family 
->  wandering  Arabs  pitch  their  tents,  they  set  apart  a 
i ce  for  a school  : this  they  surround  with  broken  shrubs 
Jfhe  desert  to  keep  off  the  wind  ; here  all  the  boys  who 
u;e  been  circumcised  of  from  eight  to  eighteen  ortwen- 
»Tears  old,  attend,  and  are  taught  to  read  and  to  write 
'(ses  from  the  Koran,  which  is  kept  in  manuscript  by 


280 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


every  family  on  skins : they  write  their  characters  fi 
right  to  left — are  particular  in  the  formation  of  them, 
make  their  lines  very  straight : all  the  children  attend  fr  i 
choice  or  for  amusement.  The  teacher,  I was  told,  nt 
punishes  a child,  but  explains  the  meaning  of  things, 
amuses  him  by  telling  tales  that  are  both  entertaining  ; 
instructive  ; he  reads  or  rehearses  chapters  from  the  Kc 
or  some  other  book,  for  they  have  a great  many  poe: 
&c.  written  also  on  skins  : when  the  board  is  full  of  ^ 
ling,  they  rub  it  oft'  with  sand,  and  begin  again  : t 
enumerate  with  the  nine  figures  now  in  use  among  all  ] 
ropean  nations,  and  in  America,  and  were  extrerr 
astonished  to  find  that  I could  make  them,  and  underst 
their  meaning,  saying  one  to  another,  “ This  man  m 
have  been  a slave  before  to  some  Arabian  merchant,  \ 
has  taught  him  the  manner  of  using  the  Arabic  figu 
and  contrary  to  his  law,  unless  indeed  he  is  a good  n 
and  a believer.”  The  boards  on  which  they  wrote  set 
ed  to  have  lasted  for  ages — they  had  been  split  in  mi 
places,  and  were  kept  together  by  small  iron  plates 
each  side,  fixed  by  iron  rivets  : these  plates,  as  well 
their  rude  axes,  of  which  each  family  has  one,  are  m; 
of  tempered  iron  by  the  smiths  which  belong  to  and  jo 
ney  with  the  tribe  : I saw  several  of  them  at  w'ork  : tl 
burn  small  wood  into  charcoal,  and  carry  it  with  them 
camels  : their  anvil  is  made  of  a piece  of  iron  a foot  loi 
and  pointed  at  the  end — this  they  drive  into  the  ground 
work  on  ; the  head  of  the  anvil  is  about  six  inches  owl 
they  make  their  fire  in  a small  hole  dug  in  the  ground  ' 
that  purpose,  and  blow  it  up  by  means  of  two  skins  (j 
riously  fixed  : so  that  w-hile  one  is  filling  with  air,  til 
blow  wdth  the  other,  standing  between  them — with  a ha 
placed  on  each,  they  raise  and  depress  them  at  pleasu . 
.By  means  of  a clumsy7  hammer,  an  anvil,  and  hot  ire; 
to  bore  with,  they  manage  to  fix  the  saddles  for  themsehi 
to  ride  on,  and  to  make  knives  and  a kind  of  needles,  a 
small  rough  bladed  axes.  This  forge  is  carried  abet 
without  the  smallest  inconvenience,  so  that  the  Arabs  evi 
of  the  desert  are  better  provided  in  this  respect  than  t: 
Israelites  were  in  the  days  of  Saul  their  king,  Samuel,  the 
xiii.  verses  19  to  23—“  Now7  there  w7as  no  smith  in  all  tl 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


281 


Sd  of  Israel ; for  the  Philistines  said,  Lest  the  Hebrews 
ke  them  swords  or  spears.” 

There  appeared  to  be  no  kind  of  sickness  or  disease 
t iong  the  Arabs  of  the  desert  during  the  time  I was  with 
:j  m : I did  not  hear  of,  nor  see  the  smallest  symptom 
r complaint,  and  they  appear  to  live  to  a vast  age:  there 
ure  three  people  I saw  belonging  to  the  tribe  in  which  I 
s a slave,  namely,  two  old  men  and  one  woman,  who 
m appearance  were  much  older  than  any  I had  ever 
n : these  men  and  the  woman  had  lost  all  the  hair  from 
ir  heads,  beards,  and  every  part  of  their  bodies  ; the 
h on  them  had  entirely  wasted  away,  and  their  skins 
>eared  to  be  dried  and  drawn  tight  over  the  sinews  and 
[ bones,  like  Egyptian  mummies  : their  eyes  were  ex- 
it, having  totally  wasted  away  in  their  sockets,  the  bones 
which  were  only  covered  by  their  eye- lids  : they  had 
: the  use  of  all  their  limbs,  and  appeared  to  be  deprived 

! every  sense,  so  that  when  their  breath  should  be  spent 
l their  entrails  extracted,  they  would  in  my  opinion  be 
feet  mummies  without  further  preparation ; for  from 
r appearance  there  was  not  sufficient  moisture  in  their 
nes  to  promote  corruption,  and  I felt  convinced  that 

Ight  of  such  beings  (probably  on  the  deserts  of  Arabia) 
*ht  have  given  the  Egyptians  their  first  idea  of  drying 
preserving  the  dead  bodies  of  their  relations  and 
inds.  An  undutiful  child  of  civilized  parents  might 
ib  learn  a lesson  of  filial  piety  and  benevolence  from 
bse  barbarians  : the  old  people  always  received  the  first 
Ink  of  milk,  and  a larger  share  than  even  the  acting 
kd  of  the  family  when  they  were  scanted  in  quantity  : 
lenever  the  family  moved  forward,  a camel  was  first 
>1  pared  for  the  old  man,  by  fixing  a kind  of  basket  on 
h animal’s  back  ; they  then  put  skins  or  other  soft  things 
n>  it,  to  make  it  easy,  and  next  lifting  up  the  old  man, 
fy  place  him  carefully  into  the  basket,  with  a child  or 
v > on  each  side,  to  take  care  of  and  steady  him  during 
i:  march,  while  he  seems  to  sit  and  hold  on,  more  from 
Gig  habit  than  from  choice.  As  soon  as  they  stopped 
pitch  the  tents,  the  old  man  was  taken  from  his  camel, 
a!  a drink  of  water  or  milk  given  him,  for  they  take 
:e  to  save  some  for  that  particular  purpose.  When  the 

36 


282 


CAPTAIN  RILEY  S NARRATIVE. 


tent  was  pitched,  he  was  carefully  taken  up  and  plac ! 
under  it  on  their  mat,  where  he  could  go  to  sleep  : — 1 1 
man’s  voice  was  very  feeble,  squeaking,  and  hollo, 
The  remarkably  old  man  I am  speaking  of  belonged  j 
a family  that  always  pitched  their  tent  near  ours,  so  t) : 
I had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  manner  of  , 
treatment  for  several  days  together,  which  was  uniform 
the  same. 

After  I was  redeemed  in  Mogadore  I asked  my  mas 
Sidi  Hamet  of  what  age  he  supposed  this  old  man  to  hr 
been,  and  he  said  about  eight  Zille,  or  Arabic  centuri 
Now  an  Arabic  century,  or  Zille,  is  forty  lunar  years ' 
twelve  moons  in  each  year,  so  that  by  this  computation 
must  have  been  nearly  three  hundred  years  old  : he  a 
told  me  that  it  was  very  common  to  find  Arabs  on  differ 
parts  of  the  great  desert,  five  Zille  old,  retaining  all  th 
faculties,  and  that  he  had  seen  a great  many  of  the  asi 
of  from  seven  to  eight  Zille.  He  further  said,  that  r 
old  master  from  whom  he  bought  me  had  lived  nearly  fi 
Zille  or  centuries,  though  he  was  very  strong  and  activ 
and  from  the  appearance  of  a great  many  others  in  i 
same  tribe,  I could  have  no  doubt  but  they  were  mu 
older.  I then  asked  him  how  they  knew  their  own  ag 
and  he  answered,  “ Every  family  keeps  a record  of  i| 
ages  and  names  of  its  children,  which  they  always  presei 
and  pack  up  in  the  same  bag  in  which  they  carry  i 
Koran.”  Each  family  had  a bag  as  large  as  a came 
skin,  full  of  manuscripts,  written  on  skins  prepared 
the  purpose,  resembling  parchment,  but  not  stiff ; tf 
were  whole  goat  or  sheep  skins,  covered  on  all  sides 
writing:  one  skin,  I understood,  contained  the  win 
Koran.  I told  him  that  few  people  in  other  parts  of  l: 
world  lived  to  the  age  of  two  Zille  and  a half,  and  I ! 
people  of  those  countries  would  not  believe  such  a sto  . 

“ The  Arabs  who  live  on  the  desert  (said  he)  subr 
entirely  on  the  milk  of  their  camels  ; it  is  the  milk  of  i 
animal  that  we  call  sacred,  and  it  causes  long  life  : the 
who  live  on  nothing  else,  have  no  sickness  nor  disorde , 
and  are  particularly  favoured  by  heaven;  but  only  car 
the  same  people  off'  from  the  desert,  and  let  them  live  i 
meat,  and  bread,  and  fruits,  they  then  become  subject: 


283 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 

iery  kind  of  pain  and  sickness  when  they  are  young,  and 
.ily  live  to  the  age  of  about  two  Zille  and  a half  at  the 
; ost,  while  a great  many  die  very  young,  and  not  one 
i nth  part  of  the  men  or  women  live  to  the  age  of  one 
. ille.  I myself  (added  he)  always  feel  well  when  I live 
i the  milk  of  the  camel  alone,  even  though  I do  not  get 
Ilf  as  much  as  I want,  for  then  I am  strong  and  can 
l ar  heat,  and  cold,  and  fatigue,  much  better  than  when 
Jlive  on  flesh,  and  bread,  and  fruit,  and  have  plenty  of 
|)od  fresh  water  to  drink,  and  if  I could  always  have  as 
vuch  camels’  milk  as  I could  drink,  I would  never  taste 
meat  again  ; but  I love  bread  and  honey  very  much.” 
his  account  from  an  Arab  who  was  my  friend  and  the 
feserver  of  my  life,  and  one  who  had  traversed  the  desert 

1 many  directions,  and  who  was  also  a good  scholar  for 
i.  Arab,  and  on  whose  veracity  I could  rely,  together 
kith  what  fell  under  my  own  observation,  has  removed  all 
oubt  from  my  mind  on  that  subject,  and  I am  fully  of 
oinion,  that  a great  many  Arabs  on  this  vast  expanse  of 
rsert,  actually  live  to  the  age  of  two  hundred  years  and 

2 ore  of  our  calendar.  My  reasons  for  this  belief,  in  ad 
<tion  to  those  already  given,  are, 

1st.  That  their  lives  are  regular,  from  the  day  of  their 
1 rth  to  the  day  of  their  death. 

2d.  That  there  is  no  variation  in  their  food,  which  is 
*'  the  most  pure  and  nutritive  kind,  and  cannot  cause  in 
fern  disorders  originating  from  indigestion,  &c.  &c. 

3d.  That  the  climate  they  inhabit,  though  hot,  is  per- 
ctly  dry,  and  consequently  must  be  healthy  for  those 
brn  there;  and, 

4th.  That  in  their  wandering  life  they  are  never  sub- 
cted  to  hard  bodily  labour,  and  their  daily  movements 
Ford  them  sufficient  exercise  to  promote  a due  circula- 
on  of  the  fluids  ; nor  do  they  ever  taste  wine  or  any  ar- 
ent  spirits,  being  entirely  out  of  the  way  of  those  articles, 
id  are  besides  strictly  forbidden  by  their  religion.  I am 
o physician,  and  cannot  therefore  enter  into  any  learned 
isquisition  on  this  subject,  but  merely  give  my  own  irn- 
ressions  respecting  it,  without  pretending  to  be  less  liable 
) err  in  judgment  than  others.  It  cannot  be  doubted  but 
lat  the  Arabs  existed  as  a wandering  race  long  before  the 


284 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


time  of  the  Greeks,  and  it  is  possible  that  they  possess  I 
in  those  early  ages  the  art  of  writing,  and  reckoned  ti j 
by  the  same  method  they  do  at  this  day ; say  forty  lu  r 
years  for  a Zille  or  century,  and  that  in  translating  r 
quoting  from  their  writings,  a Zille  may  have  been  tal  i 
for  a hundred  of  our  years. 

The  tribe  of  Arabs  to  which  I belonged  owned  ft  r 
horses,  or  rather  mares  : they  were  the  general  proper 
and  were  fed  on  milk,  and  watered  every  two  days  : w 
these  animals  they  hunt  the  ostrich,  and  with  this  vk 
having  agreed  on  the  time  and  place,  the  whole  of  1 
men  assemble  before  day-light  on  their  camels,  and  si 
round  a certain  spot  of  ground  where  they  calculate  j 
finding  ostriches,  with  the  horses  to  windward,  and  til 
riders  with  loaded  muskets  in  their  hands  : they  then 't 
proach  each  other  until  they  start  the  ostriches,  who  s< 
ing  themselves  surrounded  on  all  sides  but  one,  run 
the  southward  before  the  wind,  followed  by  the  hors 
which  it  is  said  run  extremely  swift,  and  pressing  on  t 
ostrich  very  hard,  the  bird  runs  himself  out  of  breath  j 
about  three  hours,  when  the  men  on  horseback  come  i 
and  shoot  him  : but  let  these  birds  run  against  the  win 
and  no  horse  can  overtake  them,  for  then  they  do  not  lc 
their  breath. 

After  my  arrival  at  Mogadore,  I heard  of  the  Heir 
or  small  swift  camel  of  the  desert,  but  I never  saw  ai 
camel  that  differed  from  the  common  one  either  in  size 
shape,  and  can  only  suppose  that  it  may  be  a camel 
the  same  race  trained  for  running  swift,  and  fed  on  mi 
like  the  horses.  The  common  camel  can  easily  travel  or 
hundred  miles  in  a day.  A good  new  milch  camel  give 
at  one  milking  when  on  the  desert  about  one  quart,  whic 
is  very  rich  and  good  : this  is  besides  what  suffices  1 
sustain  the  young  camel,  and  is  drawn  at  midnight — the 
only  draw  about  a gill  in  the  morning. 

Most  of  the  Arabs  are  well  armed  with  good  doubi 
barrelled  French  fowling  pieces,  (which  have  exceller 
locks,)  and  with  good  scimitars  and  knives : each  has 
kind  of  bag  to  carry  his  slugs,  &c.  in,  slung  by  his  nec 
and  hanging  down  to  his  waist  on  the  left  side  : their  bi 
powder-horn  is  suspended  in  like  manner : this  contain 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


285 


warse  powder,  and  is  used  for  loading  the  muskets,  but 
ley  all  have  a little  horn  in  which  to  carry  their  fine  pow- 
er for  priming.  Many  of  the  gun  barrels  that  I saw 
icre  worn  through,  and  the  holes  were  stopped  up  by 
l azing : — they  have  procured  many  of  their  guns,  no 
oubt,  by  shipwrecks  on  the  coast  of  the  desert ; many 
lore  from  caravans  that  they  have  overpowered,  and  oth- 
(5  in  the  way  of  trade  from  the  French  settlements  of 
feme  gal,  and  from  Tunis,  Tripoli,  and  other  ports  on  the 
Mediterranean  sea,  and  Morocco.  I did  not  see  a single 
boorish  musket  or  lock  during  the  time  I was  among  the 
^rabs  of  the  desert : they  were  all  made  in  Europe,  and 
c nerally  in  Paris,  with  the  maker’s  name  on  the  locks, 
'hey  have  tolerably  good  powder,  which  they  say  they 
bow  how  to  manufacture,  but  do  not  make  it  fine,  so 
tit  the  first  rate  English  or  French  musket  powder  is 
ruch  in  request,  and  looked  upon  as  invaluable  for 
jiming.  Their  swords  or  scimitars  they  most  probably 
otain  by  the  same  means  as  their  muskets  : they  are  ever 
lady  to  attack  an  inferior,  or  even  an  equal  force,  and 
%ht  for  the  sake  of  plunder. 

Their  language  is  the  ancient  Arabic ; is  spoken  with 
seat  fluency,  and  is  distinguished  for  its  powerful  em- 
jiasis,  and  elegant  cadence.  When  they  converse  peace- 
nly,  (and  they  are  much  given  to  talking  with  each 
cher,)  it  thrills  on  the  ear  like  the  breathings  of  soft  wind- 
lusic,  and  excites  in  the  soul  the  most  soothing  sensa- 
tins ; but  when  they  speak  in  anger,  it  sounds  as  hoarse 
; the  roarings  of  irritated  lions,  or  the  most  furious  beasts 
< prey.  They  attack  the  small  towns  in  the  vicinity  of 
i e desert,  on  all  sides ; which  are  walled  in  to  ward  oft' 

' eir  incursions : if  they  are  successful,  they  put  all  to 
'e  sword,  burn  the  towns,  and  retire  again  to  the  desert 
ith  their  spoil.  Such  is  the  wandering  Arab  of  the 
■eat  African  desert : his  hand  is  against  every  man,  and 
msequently  every  man’s  hand  is  against  him. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  AN  ARABIAN  CAMEL  OR  DROMEDARY, 

< 

The  Arabian  camel,  called  by  the  ancients  and  by 
aturalists  the  dromedary,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  singular. 


286 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


and  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  most  useful  animals 
nature.  He  is,  when  full  grown,  from  eight  to  nine  f< 
in  height,  and  about  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  in  leng 
from  the  end  of  his  nose  to  the  root  of  his  tail : his  bo 
is  small,  compared  with  his  height:  his  neck  resemb: 
in  shape  that  of  a goose  more  than  any  other  animal,  hei 
long  and  slender,  and  it  seems  to  grow  out  of  the  Iom 
part  of  his  body,  between  his  fore  legs  : he  raises  1 \ 
head  to  the  height  of  his  back,  poking  his  nose  out  ho 
zontally,  so  that  his  face  looks  directly  upwards,  and  ll 
nose  bone  so  high  as  to  be  on  a line  with  the  top  of  i\ 
bunch  on  his  back  : his  head  is  small,  his  ears  short : 1 
eyes  are  of  various  colours,  from  a black  to  almost 
white  ; bright,  and  sparkling  with  instinctive  intelligent 
and  placed  on  the  sides  of  his  head  in  such  a manner  tl 
he  can  see  before,  behind,  and  on  every  side  at  the  sar 
time.  His  tail  is  short,  and  hangs  like  that  of  a co 
with  a small  bunch  of  hair  at  the  end  : his  legs  are  lot 
and  slender,  though  their  joints  are  stout  and  strong : 1 
feet  are  divided  something  like  those  of  an  ox,  but  he  h 
no  hoof  except  on  the  extreme  points  of  the  toes— 
other  parts  they  are  only  covered  with  skin,  and  are  sc 
and  yielding : the  soles  of  his  feet  are  not  thicker  th; 
stout  sole  leather  : he  is  generally  of  a light  ash  color 
but  varying  from  that  to  a dark  brown,  and  sometimes 
reddish  brown  : many  of  them  are  also  marked  with  whi 
spots  or  stripes  on  their  foreheads,  and  on  different  par 
of  their  bodies  : the  hair  on  his  body  is  short  and  fin 
like  the  finest  of  wool,  and  serves  the  Arabs  instead  • 
that  necessary  article,  with  which  they  make  their  tei 
doth  and  coarse  covering  : it  is  pulled  or  else  falls  o 
once  a year  : the  hair  about  the  throat  and  on  the  hum 
is  eight  or  ten  inches  in  length,  and  hangs  down  : he  hf 
a high  bunch  on  his  back,  which  rises  from  his  shoulder 
and  comes  to  a blunt  point  at  about  the  centre  of  h. 
back,  and  tapers  off  to  his  hips  : this  bunch  is  from  on 
to  two  feet  high  above  the  back  bone,  and  not  attache 
to  it  nor  to  the  frame  of  the  camel,  so  that  in  skinnin 
him  the  Arabs  take  off  the  bunch  with  it,  which  is  large 
or  smaller,  as  the  camel  is  fat  or  lean.  He  who  rides  oi 
a camel  without  a saddle  (which  saddle  is  peculiarly  con 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


287 


acted,  so  as  not  to  touch  the  bunch)  is  forced  to  get  on 
i hind  it,  wheie  the  breadth  of  the  body  keeps  the  rider’s 
lbs  extended  very  wide,  while  he  is  obliged  to  keep  him- 
jjlf  from  slipping  off  over  the  beast’s  tail,  by  clenching 
bth  hands  into  the  long  hair  that  covers  the  bunch. 

The  camel  is  a very  tractable  animal ; he  lies  down  on 
b belly  at  the  command  of  his  master,  folding  his  legs 
uder  him  something  like  a sheep  ; there  he  remains  to 
raeive  his  rider  or  his  burthen,  when  he  rises  at  a word, 
ad  proceeds  in  the  way  he  is  driven  or  directed,  with  the 
i most  docility  and  readiness,  while  his  master  encourages 
1 m by  singing.  The  Arabs  use  neither  bridle  nor  halter, 
i it  guide  and  manage  the  camel  (whose  head  is  quite  at 
berty)  by  means  of  a stick,  assisted  by  words  and  sounds 
( the  tongue  ; having  one  sound  to  urge  him  on  faster  ; 
c.e  to  make  him  go  slower  ; and  a third,  which  is  a kind 
( cluck  with  the  tongue,  to  make  him  ston.  He  chews 
I)  cud  like  an  ox,  and  has  no  fore  teeth  in  nis  upper  jaw ; 
lit  his  lips  are  long  and  rough,  so  that  he  nips  oft'  the 
igged  shrubs  without  difficulty,  on  which  he  is  obliged 
t feed.  The  camel  seems  to  have  been  formed  by  nature 
t live  on  deserts : he  is  patient,  fleet,  strong,  and  hardy ; 

< n endure  hunger  and  thirst  better  than  any  other  animal  i 

< n travel  through  deep  and  dead  sands  with  great  ease, 
od  over  the  flinty  parts  of  the  desert  without  difficulty, 
lough  it  is  hard  for  him  to  go  up  or  down  steep  hills  and 

ountains,  and  to  travel  on  muddy  roads,  as  he  slips 
oout  and  strains  himself ; but  he  is  sure-footed,  and  walks 
mly  on  a hard  dry  surface,  or  on  sand.  I have  never 
iade  the  natural  history  of  animals  my  study,  and  it  can- 
fit  be  expected  that  I should  be  acquainted  with  the  par- 
cular  formation  of  their  interior  parts  ; but  I will  venture 
) say  a few  words  in  regard  to  those  of  the  camel,  without 
ar  of  contradiction  from  any  one  who  shall  see  and  ex- 
nine  for  himself,  having  assisted  in  butchering  three 
arnels  while  a slave. 

The  camel  is  described  by  naturalists  as  having,  besides 
le  four  stomachs  common  to  ruminating  animals,  a fifth 
ag,  exclusively  as  a reservoir  for  water,  where  it  remains 
without  corrupting  or  mixing  with  the  other  aliments  : this 
5 a mistake — for  the  bag  that  holds  the  water  contains 


288 


CAP!' AIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


also  the  chewed  herbage,  and  is  in  the  camel  what 
paunch  is  in  an  ox.  Into  this  bag  all  the  rough  chew 
herbage  enters,  where  it  is  softened  by  the  water,  thro\ 
again  into  the  mouth,  chewed  over,  and  passes  off  by  a / 
other  canal,  and  the  fceces  are  so  dry  that  the  day  afi 
they  are  voided,  the  Arabs  strike  fire  on  them  instead 
touchwood  or  punk.  Having  to  draw  water  for  these  a) ! 
mals,  I am  certain  that  the  largest  sized  ones  drink  at  le; 
two  barrels  of  water  at  one  time,  when  they  have  been  lo; 
without  it,  and  that  the  whole  of  the  camels  belonging 
the  tribe  by  whom  I was  made  a slave,  which  were  th 
at  a well,  did  not  again  get  a drop  of  water  within  twen 
days  : these  camels  were  at  least  two  thousand  in  numb 
and  wrere  then  on  one  of  the  hottest  and  dryest  parts  of  t 
great  western  desert,  where  there  was  scarcely  a green  It 
or  shrub  to  be  found,  and  their  owners  knew  how  far 
was  back  to  the  same  watering  place  at  which  myself  ai 
crew  were  seized,  and  to  which  they  drove  them  again  , 
the  end  of  that  period — and  even  that  water  was  almost 
black  as  ink,  owing  probably  to  its  stagnant  state  in  t 
well,  and  very  brackish,  because  it  filtered  through  t 
sand  beach  from  the  ocean,  which  was  not  more  than  thr 
hundred  yards  from  the  well ; and  these  camels  we 
twenty  days  without  water  under  such  circumstances  ; ai 
I have  not  the  smallest  doubt  that  they  can  go  thirty  or  fc 
ty  days  without  water  before  they  would  die  with  thin 
At  the  end  of  fifteen  days  after  watering  the  camels,  rr 
old  master,  Mohammed  Bessa,  killed  an  old  and  very  po 
camel,  and  I was  obliged  to  assist  in  dressing,  though  n 
in  eating  it,  for  its  flesh,  bones,  and  intestines,  were  d 
vided  among  the  whole  tribe  ; a small  piece  to  each  fam 
ly  : they  cut  open  the  paunch  of  this  camel,  (for  he  hi 
no  other  bag  to  contain  water,)  and  dipped  out  the  coi 
tents,  though  thick  with  foeces,  in  order  to  boil  the  inte 
tines  in  it,  as  well  as  to  drink.  When  my  master,  Sii 
Hamet,  killed  a camel  to  give  me  and  my  companion 
some  meat,  and  procure  something  to  sustain  us  on  oi 
journey  across  the  desert,  the  paunch  was  rolled  out  i 
the  camel,  and  the  water  taken  from  it,  thick  as  it  was 
to  boil  the  uncleansed  intestines.  After  drinking  th| 
stuff,  we  put  the  remainder  (about  two  gallons)  with  th 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


289 


1th  it  contained,  into  one  of  our  bottles,  or  goat  skins, 
ad  it  served  to  sustain  life,  though  the  most  rank  and 
auseous  both  to  the  smell  and  taste  that  can  be  imagined, 
'hese  bottles  sufficiently  explain  why  Christ  said,  “ Put 
;w  wine  into  new  bottles,”  in  order  to  preserve  both,  as 
1 old  skin  bag,  being  in  scripture  termed  a bottle,  is  evi- 
ently  weaker  than  a new  one,  and  more  liable  to  burst 
aring  the  fermentation  of  its  contents. 

The  camel  is  considered  by  the  Arab  as  a sacred  ani- 
ial:  with  him  he  can  transport  a load  of  merchandise  of 
cveral  hundred  weight  with  certainty  and  celerity  through 
cserts  utterly  impassable  with  any  other  animal : on  him 
’e  wandering  Arab  can  flee  with  his  family  from  any 
eeiny,  across  the  trackless  waste,  one  hundred  miles  or 
lore  in  a single  day  if  he  wishes,  and  out  of  the  reach  of 
Is  pursuers,  for  the  desert,  like  the  ocean,  neither  re- 
tins nor  discloses  any  trace  of  the  traveller.  Its  milk  is 
bth  food  and  drink  for  the  whole  family,  and  when  they 
Ive  a sufficiency  of  that  article,  they  are  contented,  and 
c sire  nothing  more  : with  his  camel  the  Arab  is  perfectly 
i dependent,  and  can  bid  defiance  to  all  the  forces  that 
mlized  or  uncivilized  foes  can  send  against  him : with 
1m  they  collect  in  strong  bands,  all  well  armed,  and  fall 
Don  the  caravans,  slaying  without  mercy  all  they  can 
c erpower,  and  divide  their  spoil : should  they  meet  with 
irepulse,  they  can  flee  and  soon  be  out  of  sight  : they 
cio  attack  the  settlements  and  small  walled  towns  in  the 
c ltivated  country  near  the  desert,  and  if  strong  enough, 

( stroy  all  the  inhabitants,  and  drive  off  the  cattle  : all  the 
ods  of  the  slain  they  carry  away  on  their  camels,  and 
i turn  to  the  desert,  where  no  force  can  pursue  them 
Mthout  meeting  with  certain  destruction. 

The  camel’s  motions  are  extremely  heavy  and  jolting  s 
1.3  legs  being  long,  he  steps  a great  distance,  and  though 
appears  to  go  slowly  when  on  a walk,  yet  he  proceeds 
i about  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour,  and  it  is  difficult 
Ir  a man  to  keep  pace  with  him  without  running.  When 
te  camel  trots,  he  goes  very  fast ; the  small  troi  being 
iiout  six,  and  the  great  one  about  eight  miles  an  hour — - 
t is  they  can  do  with  great  ease  with  light  loads  for  a whole 
< y together,  and  will  replenish  their  stomachs  ai  night 

37 


290 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


with  the  leaves  and  twigs  of  the  sullen  thorn-bush,  tf 
is  barely  permitted  by  nature  to  vegetate  in  that  me 
dreary  and  desolate  of  all  regions.  The  flesh  of  t 
camel  is  good  for  food  ; and  that  of  the  young  ones 
esteemed  preferable  to  that  of  the  ox  : they  bring  forth 
single  young  one  at  a time,  and  generally  once  in  abo 
two  years,  their  time  of  gestation  being  about  one  yei 
When  the  camel  is  in  heat,  he  is  extremely  vicious, 
that  none  dare  come  near  him  : they  are  said  to  pair  li 
doves,  and  not  to  have  promiscuous  intercourse  like  hors< 
neat  cattle,  &c.  The  formation  of  the  camel,  in  one  p 
ticular,  resembles  that  of  a horse,  but  it  has  a contrary  < 
rection,  so  that  the  water  is  voided  behind ; and  wh 
obeying  one  of  the  most  important  instincts  of  nature, 
is  obliged  to  make  his  approach  in  a retrograde  mann 
In  the  year  1804,  I was  in  the  island  of  Lanzarote,  one 
the  Canaries,  and  loaded  my  vessel  (the  brig  Eliza  a 
Mary,  of  New-York)  with  barilla,  which  I carried 
Belfast,  m Ireland  ; — the  barilla  is  brought  from  the  in 
rior  of  the  island  to  the  port,  on  camels,  from  whe 
backs  I received  and  weighed  it.  Their  common  los 
were  from  nine  to  twelve  quintals  of  one  hundred  pound 
but  many  loads  overran  that  weight,  and  one  load  in  p 
ticular  weighed  over  fifteen  hundred  pounds.  The 
were  the  same  kind  of  camels  used  in  Barbary,  and 
the  desert,  and  indeed  I never  saw  any  other  kind  : th 
are  said  to  come  to  their  full  growth  in  six  or  eight  yea 
and  to  live  in  many  instances,  to  the  age  of  fifty  or  six 


CHAPTER  XXVI L 

Some  account  of  Suse,  or  South  Barbary , and  of  its 
habitants , cities , &c. — the  primitive  plough  and  mode 
using  it — primitive  churn , and  method  of  making  bi 
ter. 

The  country  of  Suse,  or  South  Barbary,  is  bound 
by  the  Moorish  province  of  Hah- Hah,  on  the  east, 
the  Atlas  mountains  and  the  great  desert,  south,  and 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


291 


•„e  Atlantic  ocean  on  the  north  and  west : its  length  from 
st  to  west  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles ; its 
lleadth  from  north  to  south  one  to  two  hundred  miles. 
}i  coming  from  the  desert,  its  principal  towns  are,  TFal- 
cleim,  which  is  said  to  be  very  large  and  strong,  and  to 
cintain  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Akka  is  much  tire 
l:gest  town  in  Suse,  and  its  inhabitants  are  computed  by 
te  Arabs  at  thirty  thousand.  Widnoon  is  said  to  contain 
venty  thousand.  Scheie m contains  four  thousand.  Stuka, 
'here  I was  shut  up  a slave,  does  not  appear  to  be  a prin- 
<fpal  town,  but  is  made  up  of  a cluster  of  small  ones,  nor 
>uld  I learn  the  names  of  the  many  little  towns  or  cas- 
tj?s,  in  sight  of  which  I passed  coming  up.  Suse  was 
irmerly  a kingdom,  and  was  afterwards  united  to  those 
('  Morocco  and  Fez,  which  now  forms  the  Moorish  em- 
]re  : it  has,  however,  become  entirely  independent,  for 
lough  the  emperor  of  Morocco  claims  jurisdiction  over 
1e  whole  of  Suse,  and  indeed  of  the  whole  desert  as  far 
nuth  as  Soudan,  yet  all  those  countries  are  in  fact  inde- 
jmdent,  and  the  emperor’s  power  extends  only  a few 
lagues  south  and  west,  from  a line  drawn  through  Santa 
'ruz  or  Adager,  and  Tarudant,  southeast  to  the  Atlas. 
The  soil  of  this  country  is  very  rich  and  fruitful : here 
heat,  barley,  and  indian  corn,  or  maize,  are  cultivated, 
;iid  most  kinds  of  kitchen  garden  vegetables  thrive  with 
'eat  luxuriance  ; the  date,  fig,  pomegranate,  olive,  orange, 
mon,  sweet  and  bitter  almond,  arga,  and  many  other 
uit  and  forest  trees,  thrive  exceedingly  well,  and  pro- 
uce,  it  is  said,  great  abundance  in  their  seasons  : the 
um  arabic  and  sanderach  are  also  produced  there  in  great 
uantities.  The  country  being  speckled  over  with  small 
ities,  towns,  and  castles,  all  strongly  walled  in  with  stone, 
lid  in  clay,  is  calculated  to  remind  one  of  the  times  of 
te  feudal  system  ; each  place  is  under  the  government  of 
:s  own  chief,  who  is  by  common  consent  the  head  of  the 
tmily  : they  are  under  a kind  of  patriarchal  government, 
nd  each  individual  feels  himself  perfectly  free  and  inde- 
lendent.  In  case  of  attack  or  danger,  all  unite  for  the 
;eneral  defence,  under  such  leaders  as  shall  have  proved 
hemselves  brave,  enterprising,  and  worthy  of  command  : 
nd  by  this  means  they  are  enabled  to  secure  themselves, 


292 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


in  some  measure,  against  the  frequent  inroads  and  insul 
of  the  wandering  Arabs,  who  inhabit  the  great  desert 
their  vicinity,  and  to  repel  the  more  formidable  attacks 
the  forces  of  the  Moorish  emperor.  They  raise  gre 
numbers  of  camels,  horses,  asses,  mules,  oxen,  goat 
and  sheep,  which  are  guarded  by  their  negro  slaves,  ( 
whom  they  have  many)  or  by  the  young  boys,  and  the 
are  driven  into  their  towns  or  castles  every  night,  to  pr 
vent  their  being  surprised  and  carried  off  by  the  Arabs,  ■ 
other  predatory  neighbours : their  horses  are  very  hane 
some,  strong,  and  fleet,  of  the  real  Arabian  kind,  ar 
very  high  spirited. 

The  inhabitants  are  of  a tawny  colour,  like  the  Moor 
though  not  quite  so  dark,  and  I was  informed  they  wei 
principally  descendants  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  tl 
country  before  it  was  overrun  by  the  Arabs  or  Sar; 
cens  : they  are  in  their  persons  about  five  feet  eight  t 
nine  inches  in  height,  stout  built,  robust,  and  athleti 
and  are  very  straight  limbed : they  have  rather  a rour 
visage,  with  prominent  features,  black  hair,  sharp  poinl 
noses,  and  great  bushy  beards:  their  eyes  are  black,  bt 
not  so  lively,  expressive,  or  intelligent,  as  those  of  tl 
Arabs  : their  mouths  are  wide,  and  their,  lips  plum] 
Their  dress  consists  of  a kind  of  shirt  made  of  bln 
Guinea  or  linen  cloth,  or  coarse  white  muslin,  that  passi 
, over  their  shoulders,  and  falls  down  near  their  knees,  bt 
without  sleeves  : over  this,  they  wear  a haick  or  blankf 
made  of  woollen  cloth,  of  about  five  yards  in  length,  an 
an  ell  in  width  : this  they  wrap  round  them  ; some  ( 
them  also  wear  the  cloak,  or  sulam,  and  Moorish  trow 
sers ; and  have  on  their  heads  either  turbans  of  whit 
cotton  cloth,  or  a fold  of  their  haick.  The  heads  of  th 
men  are  generally  shaved  smooth,  at  least  once  a month 
their  women,  like  those  of  the  Moors,  are  not  to  be  see 
by  the  men,  except  their  husbands  or  fathers  : the  me; 
are  very  industrious,  and  work  their  land  by  ploughing  i 
up  with  a plough  formed  out  of  the  trunk  of  a tree,  hewi 
sharp  to  a point  that  projects  about  two  feet  forward,  fron 
a stout  crooked  limb,  that  serves  as  a beam  to  the  plough 
while  a smaller,  and  particularly  formed  limb,  is  used  a 
a handle  to  steady  and  govern  it.  In  order  to  fix  thei 


t 


D 

! 


t 


IV.  7. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


293 


c mals  to  the  plough,  they  first  attach  them  together,  say 
a!:ow  and  an*  ass,  (for  this  seemed  to  make  a favourite 
p r,  and  I observed  a great  many  such  pairs,  yoked  to- 
gther)  by  fastening  a rope  round  the  horns  of  the  cow, 
id  about  the  nose  of  the  ass,  in  form  of  a halter : they 
ixt  place  a short  piece  or  stick  of  wood,  hollowed  out 
lie  one  end  of  an  ox  yoke  across  the  neck  of  each  ani- 
njl,  and  fasten  it  by  means  of  a rope  tied  to  one  end  of 
tlf  stick  ; this  going  round  under  their  necks,  is  made 
t to  the  other  end  of  the  short  yoke  ; they  then  run  a 
g pole  through  under  their  bellies,  just  behind  their 
teje  legs,  and  fasten  it  there  by  means  of  two  ropes,  like 
ft  draw  ropes  or  traces  of  a horse’s  harness:  these  are 
^ II fed  to  the  rope  that  goes  round  the  animal’s  neck  at  one 
lerl,  and  the  pole  under  their  bellies  serves  for  a yoke,  and 
injects  out  a foot  or  two  on  each  side  : to  the  centre  of 
b pole,  the  end  of  the  plough  beam  is  lashed  fast.  The 
imt  which  enters  the  ground,  is  hewn  in  a triangular 
ilpe,  but  the  edges  soon  wear  off,  so  that  it  becomes 
inrly  round.  In  loamy  and  sandy  soils  they  plough 
Afh  the  naked  wood,  but  in  stony  places  they  point  it 
wjh  a round  piece  of  iron,  tapering  to  a sharp  point  that 
*4  on  with  a socket : it  turns  up  the  earth  on  both  sides, 

Kgoes  into  the  ground  about  eight  inches  deep.  The 
pie  of  Suse,  and  those  of  Morocco,  use  only  one  pair 
d beasts,  whatever  they  may  be,  and  have  lines  leading 
fijm  the  heads  of  the  animals  into  the  hands  of  him  who 
studies  the  plough,  by  means  of  which  he  directs  and 
gverns  them  : he  also  carries  a thick  stick  sufficiently 
iog  to  reach  them  with  a sharp-pointed  iron  like  a spear 
n its  end  ; by  the  help  of  which  he  pricks  and  goads  his 
fasts  along  at  pleasure.  This  instrument  is  an  ox  goad, 
ad  no  doubt  is  similar  to  those  spoken  of  in  Sacred 
rit — 1st  Samuel  iii.  1.  But  these  Moors  do  not  obey 
'at part  of  the  law  of  Moses;  “ Thou  shalt  not  plough 
vth  an  ox  and  an  ass  together.”  See  22d  chapter  of  * 
Jeuteronomy,  10th  verse,  except  by  sometimes  substi- 
tting  a cow  instead  of  an  ox.  This,  I imagine,  was  the 
jimitive  plough,  or  something  very  near  it,  and  the  first 
lethod  hit  upon  for  using  it. 

I have  also  promised  to  treat  of  the  prirfiitive  churn, 


294 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE 


and  manner  of  making  butter,  which  is  simply  this.  T 
Arabs,  or  people  who  inhabited  the  country  near  t 
river  Euphrates,  as  long  ago  as  the  time  of  Abrahai 
the  father  of  the  Jews,  and  probably  much  earlier,  kne 
the  use  of  the  camel,  and  actually  kept  him  in  a domes’ 
state:  they  would  very  naturally  feed  on  its  milk,  a 
they,  no  doubt,  in  those  days,  made  use  of  the  sar 
means  to  carry  their  milk  about  with  them,  that  the  wa 
dering  Arabs  do  at  present — that  is,  whatever  milk  is  L 
of  what  the  family  has  been  using  over  night  or  in  t 
morning,  is  put  into  a goat  skin,  or  some  other  skin,  a 
slung  on  a camel  to  serve  for  drink  in  the  heat  of  the  da 
thus  equipped,  they  set  off  together  : and  when  they  st 
to  take  refreshment,  or  to  pitch  their  tent,  they  find 
lump  of  butter  in  the  milk  ; for  the  violent  and  continu 
agitation,  occasioned  by  the  heavy  motions  of  the  cam 
has  churned,  or  forced  it  to  produce  butter  : this  sim] 
method  was  suggested  to  my  mind  by  seeing  a lump 
butter  in  my  old  master’s  milk  bag,  when  we  were  w; 
dering  on  the  desert,  and  this  must,  without  doubt,  ha 
been  the  first  mode  found  out  by  chance  of  making  bi 
ter  ; for  what  reason  would  he  have,  who  had  never  se 
such  a thing  as  butter,  for  supposing  milk  could  be  cc 
verted  into  that  substance,  more  than  any  other  fhik 
For  a further  illustration  of  this  subject,  and  a view 
the  camel,  see  plate,  figure  7,  'copied  from  an  origii 
drawing  by  the  author. 

The  country  of  Suse,  altogether,  resembles  the  narrc 
country  as  described  in  Holy  Writ,  called  the  land 
Canaan  : its  vast  number  of  small  cities,  or  rather  castk 
with  high  and  strong  walls,  with  gates  and  bars,  ea> 
under  its  own  sovereign,  must  be  similar  to  the  citi 
there  described,  as  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Jews,  (t 
gether  with  their  kings)  soon  after  they  emerged  from  t! 
deserts  of  Arabia,  under  the  command  of  their  chiefta 
and  prophet,  Joshua,  and  have,  doubtless,  been  co 
structed  for  the  same  purpose  ; i.  e.  to  guard  against  tl 
irruptions  of  the  wandering  inhabitants  of  the  contiguoi 
deserts,  &c.  The  inhabitants  are  brave  and  warlike  : 
well  armed  with  single-barrelled  muskets,  stocked  ai 
mounted  in  the  Moorish  manner,  and  with  Moorish  lock; 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


295 


by  have  also  knives,  daggers,  scimitars,  and  swords, 
i i are  the  best  of  horsemen  : they  seldom  or  ever  go 
ot  of  their  little  cities  unarmed  ; but  like  the  wandering 
Aab  on  the  desert,  they  are  completely  equipped  either 
( offence  or  defence,  even  when  they  go  to  visit  their 
nrest  friends.  They  are  said  to  be,  like  the  Arabs, 
arm  and  sincere  in  their  friendship;  in  their  enmities 
ii placable,  cruel,  and  revengeful ; and  in  trade,  cunning 
ad  deceitful. 

The  whole  number  of  inhabitants  in  Suse,  including 
jTnite  and  black  slaves,  is  estimated  at  more  than  one 
i ' lion : they  are  all  strict  observers  of  the  Mohammedan 
-latrine  and  ceremonies,  and  appear  to  be  enthusiasts  in 
igion,  though  like  the  Moors  they  are  not  generally 
1 ght  the  arts  of  reading  and  writing,  and  are  in  conse- 
ence  considered  by  the  wandering  Arabs  much  beneath 
:m  in  acquirements,  as  well  as  in  point  of  natural  abili- 
Their  language  is  the  corrupt  Arabic,  not  easily  un- 
•stood  by  the  Arabs  of  the  desert,  who  pretend  to  speak. 


' me  account  of  an  insurrection  in  Morocco — the  Bashaw 
of  Swearah  is  seized  and  put  in  irons — change  of  Gov- 
ernors— the  Jews  are  forced  to  pay  their  tribute  or  turn 
Mohammedans — their  treatment  by  the  Moors — a Jew 
burial — a circumcision — a Jewish  Priest  arrives  from 
Jerusalem — the  author  obtains  from  him  some  account  of 
the  present  Jerusalem , and  its  inhabitants , and  of  the 
method  pursued  by  the  priests  for  getting  money  from 
the  Jexvs  in  Europe  and  in  Barbary — a Moorish  execu- 
tion and  maiming — of  the  Jexvs  in  West 


There  had  been  an  insurrection  in  the  province  of 
uquella  the  last  year,  (1815)  which  had  spread  itself 
to  the  province  of  Abdah  and  Siedmah,  and  was  said  to 
l.ve  originated  from  a false  report  of  the  emperor’s  death. 


1 write  that  ancient  and  beautiful  language  in  its  great- 
purity. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


296 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


The  governor  or  Bashaw  of  these  provinces,  whose  n;  t 
was  Mohammed  ben  Absedik,  resided  in  Swearah,  \ 
had  been  a Bashaw  and  a man  of  great  power  dui  j 
nearly  the  whole  reign  of  Muley  Soliman,  the  pre;  ] 
emperor — he  was  the  officer  before  whom  I was  earn 
on  my  arrival  at  Swearah,  or  Mogadore.  I was  inforr 
that  he  had  used  all  the  means  in  his  power  to  quell 
insurrection,  but  could  not  succeed  until  the  emp< 
joined  him  with  an  army  of  thirty  thousand  men,  whe 
most  desperate  battle  was  fought,  which  terminated  in 
destruction  of  more  than  fifteen  thousand  of  the  refc 
and  the  remainder  were  reduced  to  unconditional  subr . 
sion.  The  whole  of  their  flocks,  herds,  and  substai , 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Sultan,  or  rather  his  black  tro< 
W'ho  showred  them  not  the  least  mercy,  but  seized  on 
w retched  fugitives  wherever  they  could  be  found,  ma; 
cred  many  thousands,  and  carried  those  that  remained 
the  revolters,  with  their  families,  into  the  provinces  i 
had  not  rebelled,’  where  they  were  distributed  as  slave: 
This  war  being  thus  terminated,  Mohammed  ben  All 
dik  had  returned  in  triumph  to  Mogadore,  or  Swearal  i 
few  days  previous  to  my  arrival  there,  when  he  cau  ! 
presents  to  be  made  to  him,  as  if  he  had  taken  posse 
ion  of  a new  government.  In  the  mean  time  the  death 
the  Sultan’s  first  minister,  named  Ben  Sloxvy,  was  • 
nounced  : he  had  been  the  firm  friend  of  Mohammed  i 
Absedik,  and  with  the  aid  of  Muley  a Tea , (the  Suita  i 
princely  tea  maker,)  who  was  always  about  his  pers , 
managed  the  whole  affairs  of  the  Moorish  empire.  Ij 
Slowy  being  dead,  and  Muley  a Tea  sent  to  Fez  to  tra  • 
act  the  imperial  business  in  that  quarter,  the  Empe: 
then  at  Morocco,  the  enemies  of  Mohammed  ben  Ab  ■ 
dik,  (for  he  had  been  long  in  powder,  and  had  a host  1 
them)  found  means  to  transmit  heavy  complaints  to  ij 
Sultan  against  him,  (Ben  Absedik)  and  his  administ  :: 
tion,  who  perceiving  the  cloud  lowering  upon  him,  1 
out  for  Morocco  about  the  20th  of  November,  l8h 
hoping  by  an  early  interview  with  the  emperor,  to  disjl 
the  impending  storm — he  had  only  been  gone  from  Mop 
dore,  or  Swearah  four  days,  wrhen  late  in  the  evening 
new  governor  arrived,  accompanied  by  six  hundred  hor 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


297 


sen.  The  gates  had  been  shut  for  the  night ; the  brother 
: the  Bashaw  was  civil  governor  of  the  city  and  port : 
tb  emperor’s  order  was  sent  to  him  over  the  wall ; — the 
stes  were  soon  opened,  and  the  new  governor,  or  alcayd, 
etered  amidst  the  general  and  joyful  acclamations  of  the 
habitants,  both  Moors  and  Jews.  These  ignorant  and 
dicontented  people  (ever  fond  of  change)  flattered  them- 
s ves  that  this  arrangement  would  be  for  the  better,  and 
a the  morning  all  were  ready  to  prefer  complaints  against 
Jar  former  governor,  when  they  waited  on  the  new  one, 
i.|i  made  their  customary  presents.  This  governor  took 
: arge  of  the  civil  affairs  of  the  city  and  the  custom-house, 
ithe  room  of  Ajjh  Hamet,  (or  Hamet  the  pilgrim,)  the 
-shaw’s  brother,  who  was  ordered  to  repair  with  his 
tjiily  to  Morocco,  and  set  out  for  that  city  the  next  day, 
icompanied  by  a strong  guard  of  black  troops. 

In  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  a commander  of  the 
rops,  or  military  governor,  arrived  : he  was  a black  man, 
itl  had  three  hundred  horsemen  for  an  escort,  all  of  the 
ae  colour  : he  was  received  with  considerable  pomp, 
til  took  on  himself  the  immediate  command.  We  now 
emed  that  Mohammed  ben  Absedik  had  been  put  in 
ins  on  his  arrival  at  Morocco,  and  sent  off  to  Fez,  and 
tfjt  all  his  property  was  seized  by  order  of  the  Sultan,  as 
son  as  it  could  be  found.  “ New  lords,  new  laws,”  says 
k old  adage  : — a small  vessel  had  arrived  from  Gibral- 
' a.  — no  goods  could  be  landed — new  duties  were  an- 
lunced,  and  new  regulations,  by  which  no  vessel  was 
.lnved  to  be  supplied  with  provisions  except  for  daily 
aisumption  : the  duties  and  impositions  to  be  paid  every 
kr  amounted  to  more  than  the  first  cost  of  the  articles 
:usumed. 

The  Moors  who  had  rejoiced  at  the  fall  of  the  old  Ba- 
il w and  civil  governor,  or  Alcayd,  soon  changed  their 
c e,  and  began  to  wish  them  back  again  : all  the  Moors 
i the  town,  up  to  that  time,  were  considered  as  imperial 
[kdiers  or  sailors,  and  accordingly  received  a monthly 
lowance  out  of  the  Beetle  mell , or  treasury — this  was 
n.v  ordered  to  be  stopped  from  the  white  Moors,  but 
It  all  the  black  Moors,  or  negro  troops,  should  be  paid 
3 able  : new  officers  were  appointed,  and  many  of  the 


298  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE; 

old  ones  confined  and  sent  to  Morocco,  or  despoiled  ; 
their  property.  The  Christian  merchants  residing  the 
four  in  number,  were  obliged  to  make  costly  presents  > 
the  new  governor.  The  Christians  are,  YVilliam  W , 
shire,  Escp  my  deliverer,  of  the  house  of  Dupiiy  a jl 
Wiltshire,  the  most  respectable  there  in  point  of  proper  , 
as  well  as  on  every  other  account,  being  connected  in  t . 
siness  with  James  Renshaw  Co.  of  London,  and  Geo? i 
■Allardyce  C Co.  of  Gibraltar,  both  houses  of  long  star 
ing  a,;d  great  respectability  ; — Don  Estevan  Leonardi,  a| 
his  nephew,  Don  Antonio,  French,  Portuguese,  and  C 
noese  consular  agents Don  Pablo  Riva,  a respecta' } 
Genoese,  and  Alexander  W.  Court,  and  Mr.  John  Ft 
croft,  formerly  respectable.  The  Jews  that  were  ov 
joyed  at  the  recent  change,  soon  turned  their  joy  in 
mourning,  when  they  received,  a day  or  two  after,  1 
order  to  pay  their  Gazier , or  yearly  tribute,  to  the  Suite 
the  order  was  for  about  three  thousand  five  hundred  d> 
lars,  including  expenses,  (for  the  Moor  who  brought  ) 
order  must  be  paid,)  in  a gross  sum  to  be  raised  direct  I: 
the  gates  of  the  Jews’  town,  or  Miliah,  were  immediate 
dosed  upon  them,  nor  were  any  suffered  to  go  out  u.  I 
the  money  was  forth  coming. 

The  whole  number  of  Jews  here  does  not  probably  o 
ceed  six  thousand  souls,  and  they  are  very  poor : 'f 
priests  or  rabbies  soon  convened  them  in  their  synagogu , 
and  apportioned  the  tax  according  to  their  iaw  ; they  vte: 
classed  thus  : the  four  Jew  merchants,  Ben  Guidall, 
Macnin,  Abilbol,  and  Zagury,  formed  the  first  class,  d 
I was  toid  their  share  was  two  thousand  dollars  or  moi  ; 
the  few  petty  traders  the  second,  the  mechanics  the  thi . 
and  the  lowest  order  of  miserable  labourers  the  four 
class  : the  priests  and  Levites  (who  are  a great  proport : 
of  their  number)  were  of  course  exempted,  as  the  oti 
classes  support  them  at  ali  times  : not  a Jew,  either  m 
woman,  or  child,  was  allowed  to  go  out  of  their  tor 
for  three  days,  except  they  were  wanted  by  the  Moors! 
Christians  to  work,  and  not  then  without  an  order  frr 
the  Alcayd. 

During  this  period  I visited  the  Jews’  town  sevu 
times,  but  never  without  seeing  more  or  less  of  the 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


299 


hserable  wretches  knocked  down  like  bullocks  by  the 
afe-keepers,  with  their  large  canes,  as  they  attempted  to 
hsh  past  them,  when  the  gates  were  opened,  to  procure 
little  water  or  food  for  their  hungry  and  thirsty  families. 
>n  the  fourth  day,  when  the  arrangements  had  been  made 
y the  priests  and  elders,  they  sent  W'ord  to  the  governor, 
id  the  three  first  classes  were  ordered  before  him  to  pay 
:ieir  apportionment.  I knew  of  it,  because  I w^as  inform- 
d by  Mr.  Wil'shire’s  interpreter  and  broker,  who  was  a 
^ y:w  of  considerable  understanding,  named  Ben  Nahory— 
fe  was  one  of  the  committee  of  arrangement  to  wait  on 
le  governor.  I wished  to  see  the  operation,  and  went 
ear  the  house  of  the  Alcayd  for  that  purpose.  The  Jews 
C|j.)on  appeared  by  classes;  as  they  approached,  they  put 
T their  slippers,  took  their  money  in  both  their  hands, 
ftjnd  holding  them  alongside  each  other,  as  high  as  the 
' beast,  came  slowly  forward  to  the  talb,  or  Mohammedan 
: rivener,  appointed  to  receive  it;  he  took  it  from  them, 
Itting  each  one  a smart  blow  with  his  fist  on  his  bare  fore- 
bad,  by  wrav  of  a receipt  for  his  money,  at  which  the 
Iws  said,  Nahma  Sidi , and  retired  to  give  place  to  his 
ompanion. 

Thus  they  proceeded  through  the  three  first  classes 
ithout  much  difficulty,  when  the  fourth  class  was  forced 
p with  big  sticks  : this  class  was  very  numerous,  as  well 
; : miserable  : they  approached  very  unwillingly,  and  were 
,ked,  one  by  one,  if  they  were  ready  to  pay  their  gazier ; 
'hen  one  said,  yes,  he  approached  as  the  others  had  done, 
aid  his  money,  took  a similar  receipt,  and  then  went 
oout  his  business;  he  that  said,  no,  he  could  not,  or  was 
Jpt  ready,  wras  seized  instantly  by  the  Moors,  who  throw' - 
g him  flat  on  his  face  to  the  ground,  gave  him  about 
tty  blows  with  a thick  stick  upon  his  back  and  posteri- 
"s,  and  conducted  him  away,  1 was  told,  into  a dungeon, 
ader  a bomb  proof  battery , next  the  western  city  w?all, 
cing  the  ocean  : there  were  many  served  in  this  way-— 
ie  Jews’  town  was  all  this  time  strongly  guarded  and 
rictly  watched.  At  the  end  of  three  days  more,  I was 
Formed  that  those  who  were  confined  in  the  dungeon  1 
ere  brought  forth,  but  I did  not  see  them  ; the  friends 
F some  of  these  poor  creatures  had  made  up  the  money. 


3Q0 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


and  they  were  dismissed  ; whilst  the  others,  after  receivii 
more  stripes,  were  remanded  and  put  in  irons.  Befci 
the  next  three  days  had  expired,  many  of  them  chang 
their  religion,  were  received  by  the  Moors  as  brothe: 
and  were  taken  to  the  mosque,  and  highly  feasted,  b 
were  held  responsible  for  the  last  tax  notwithstanding 
The  four  above-named  Jew  merchants,  in  Swearah 
Mogadore,  live  in  high  style;  are  absolute  in  the  Jew 
town,  and  manage  nearly  all  the  English  trade  at  Mop 
dore  : at  present,  their  stores  are  allowed  to  be  kept 
the  fortress  part  of  the  town,  or  el  Ksebbah,  where  Gi 
dallas  and  Macnin  are  permitted  to  reside  and  stay  at  nig! 
by  paying  a handsome  sum  to  government : Guidal! 
wears  European  cut  clothing,  the  others  the  Jew  dress. 

I had  the  pleasure  to  see  two  brigs  arrive  from  Englan 
and  to  receive  a letter  from  Mr.  Simpson  at  Tangier,  an 
a kind  letter  from  Mr.  Sprague  at  Gibraltar,  which  t 
before  mentioned  and  inserted.  Two  days  after  the  ( 
rival  of  these  vessels  from  London,  the  one  command 
by  captain  Mackay,  and  the  other  by  captain  Hendersc 
I went  down  to  the  water  port  to  see  these  gentlem 
when  they  should  land  in  the  morning  : on  my  arriv 
there,  I saw  a great  concourse  of  soldiers,  and  on  e 
quiring  the  cause,  found  that  an  execution  was  about 
take  place,  and  some  malefactors  were  at  the  same  tin 
to  be  maimed.  The  governor  arrived  at  this  momei 
and  the  prisoners  were  driven  in  with  their  hands  tier 
the  order  for  punishment  was  read  by  the  Cadi  or  Judg 
and  the  culprits  told  to  prepare  themselves,  which  they  d 
by  saying,  Hi  el  Allah  Sheda  Mohammed  Rahsool  Alla; 
and  worshipping.  They  were  then  made  to  sit  down 
a line  upon  their  legs  on  the  ground  : a butcher  next  can 
forward  with  a sharp  knife  in  his  hand  ; he  seized  the  fir 
in  the  line  on  the  left,  by  the  beard,  with  his  left  hanc 
two  men  were  at  the  same  time  holding  the  prisoner 
hands  : the  butcher  began  cutting  very  leisurely  with  h 
knife  round  the  neck,  (which  was  a very  thick  one,)  ar 
kept  cutting  to  the  bones  until  the  flesh  was  separated  ; 1 
then  shoved  the  head  violently  from  side  to  side,  cuttin 
in  with  the  point  of  the  knife  to  divide  the  sinews,  whic 
he  seemed  to  search  out  among  the  streams  of  blood,  or 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


301 


; one  : he  finally  got  the  head  off,  and  threw  it  on  a 
nt  that  was  spread  to  receive  the  mutilated  limbs  of  the 
;uers.  There  were  eight  more  who  were  sentenced  to 
ce  a leg  and  an  arm  each,  and  nine  to  lose  only  one  arm. 
lie  butcher  began  to  amputate  the  legs  at  the  knee  joint, 
i cutting  the  flesh  and  sinews  round  with  his  knife,  which 
i sharpened  from  time  to  time  on  a stone  : he  would 
;rn  part  the  joint  by  breaking  it  short  over  his  knee,  as  a 
itcher  would  part  the  joint  in  the  leg  of  an  ox.  Having 
ir  this  manner  got  off  the  leg,  and  thrown  it  on  the  mat, 
i proceeded  to  take  off  the  arm  at  the  elbow,  in  the  same 
Purely  and  clumsy  manner  ; he  seemed,  however,  to 
u4riprove  by  practice,  so  that  he  carved  off  the  hands  of 
i last  eight  at  their  wrists,  in  a very  short  time — this 
n?d  te,  they  next  proceeded  to  take  up  the  arteries,  and 
it  fly  a plaister,  which  was  soon  accomplished  by  dipping 
i stumps  into  a kettle  of  boiling  pitch  that  stood  near, 
y.  something  that  had  the  same  appearance  and  smell.  Is 
i:  this  last  circumstance  an  improvement  in  surgery  ? 
Ley  then  carried  the  lifeless  trunk  and  mutilated  bodies, 
vh  the  head  and  other  limbs,  to  the  market:  the  head 
id  limbs  were  carried  on  a mat  by  six  men,  who  were 
iking  as  much  sport  as  possible,  for  the  spectators  : the 
a dies  were  thrown  across  jackasses,  and  they  were  ex- 
psed  in  the  most  public  part  of  the  market  place,  nearly 
th  whole  day.  The  two  governors,  and  other  officers 
vio  were  present  during  the  execution  of  the  sentence, 
. re  sitting  on  the  ground  next  to  a wall,  appearing  quite 
u concerned,  and  were  conversing  gaily  on  other  subjects, 
'.he  Moors,  who  came  from  mere  curiosity,  did  not  shew 
te  least  mark  of  disapprobation,  or  any  signs  of  horror  : 
itjey  jested  with  the  butcher,  who  seemed  highly  gratified 
Uh  the  part  he  was  acting. 

I now  asked  Rais  bel  Cossim,  who  attended  me,  con- 
■.  rning  the  mode  of  procuring  an  executioner,  &c.  &c. 
3b  told  me,  that  when  an  order  came  to  execute  or  maim 
zy  culprits,  it  generally  embraced  several  at  the  same 
tne,  so  as  to  make  but  one  job  of  it : that  the  butchers 
tere  called  on  by  the  Alcayd  or  governor,  and  forced  to 
ad  one  out  of  their  number  to  do  this  work  : that  they 
ien  made  up  a purse  agreeably  to  a rule,  made  among 


302 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


themselves  in  such  cases  ; that  is,  two  and  a half  dui ; 
per  man  for  cutting  off  heads,  and  two  ducats  per  rjii 
for  maiming  ; (two  and  a half  ducats  make  one  dollar  L 
forty  cents  per  ducat;)  they  then  question  eachotheil 
know  who  will  accept  of  the  money,  and  do  the  job  I 
no  one  appears  willing,  they  cast  lots,  and  the  one : 
whom  it  falls,  is  obliged  to  undertake  it : this  man  is  p 
tected  by  the  governor  for  twenty-four  hours  after  the 
edition,  when  he  is  left  to  take  care  of  himself,  brave 
public  odium,  and  the  revenge  of  the  friends  of  the  b 
ferer ; or  else  to  fly  : he  generally  goes  off  the  first  ni  i 
afterwards  to  some  other  place,  and  never  returns : ; 
wife,  if  he  has  one,  can  be  divorced  from  him  by  app 
ing  to  the  Cadi  or  Judge,  and  swearing,  that  as  her  li . 
band  has  served  as  an  executioner,  she  is  afraid  to  1 
with  him,  lest  he  should  be  tempted  to  commit  some 
olence  on  her,  in  a similar  way. 

The  butcher  who  acted  on  the  present  occasion,  wa 
voluntary  executioner  for  forty-eight  ducats,  and  he 
camped  the  next  night,  leaving,  as  I was  informed,  a | 
and  seven  children  to  shift  for  themselves ; he  was  pc1 
and  carried  away  his  wages  of  death  with  him.  Mr.  W 
shire  and  Don  Pablo  Riva,  confirmed  this  statement,  si 
stantially. 

Taking  a walk  round  the  walls  of  the  city  one  day,  i 
make  observations  on  it  at  low  water,  in  company  wi 
Mr.  Savage,  and  being  escorted  by  a Moor,  in  order 
protect  us  from  insults,  we  came  to  the  Jews’  burial  plac 
it  is  situated  a little  without  the  walls,  and  on  the  noi 
side  of  the  city,  near  the  ruins  of  a couple  of  wind-mii 
which  I was  informed,  used  to  do  all  the  grinding  for  t 
city  ; but  this  work  is  now  performed  in  the  town 
horse-mills.  On  our  approach,  we  observed  a great  cc 
course  of  Jew  women,  and  heard  a great  outcry  : cu 
osity  led  us  to  the  spot  where  they  were  collected  : he 
was  a newly  dug  grave,  and  the  dead  body  of  a man  Iyii 
on  the  ground  near  it,  enveloped  in  a cotton  wrapper,  wi 
his  face  partly  covered  : some  men  were  busied  in  clear!) 
out  and  preparing  the  grave  ; others  had  brought  and  we 
bringing  lime,  mortar,  and  stones,  to  fill  it  up  with 
whilst  upwards  of  one  hundred  women  were  standing 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


503 


a ;ircle  eastward  of  the  grave,  howling  in  an  extraordb 
i;y  manner.  On  a nearer  approach,  I observed  about 
. ozen  women  in  tattered  garments,  who  formed  an  inner 
;ide.  As  I gazed  with  pity  on  this  spectacle,  these 
vlve  women,  who  were  before  quiet,  seemed  to  be 
eied  with  a sudden  paroxysm  of  grief,  and  they  began 
c approach  each  other  with  their  hands  uplifted  above 
fair  heads  ; stretching  the  palms  towards  each  other’s 
•ia.?s,  and  commenced  howling,  at  first  moderately,  but 
rich  soon  increased  to  wailings  the  most  violent,  and 
alings  that  it  is  impossible  to  describe  ; they  tore  their 
aes  with  their  long  finger-nails,  and  made  the  most 
li  eous  contortions  of  their  features  : the  mania  was  now 
xnmunicated  to  all  the  women  present,  who  joined  in 
f lamentation,  but  the  others  did  not  tear  their  faces 
ib  the  twelve,  who  kept  it  up,  stamping  with  their  feet, 
il  going  round  in  their  circle  ; their  blood  and  perspira- 
i i mixing  together,  and  streaming  from  their  faces,  ran 
Q over  their  filthy  garments,  and  dyed  them  red  in  streaks 
;rm  head  to  foot : this  paroxysm  lasted  fifteen  or  twenty 
anutes,  when  they  were  so  much  exhausted  as  to  be 
ider  the  necessity  of  ceasing  for  a few  moments,  to  take 
);ath,  when  they  commenced  again,  and  went  over  the 
ssne  ceremony,  seemingly  with  redoubled  vigour.  The 
^ive  being  at  last  ready,  the  body  wras  put  in  by  the  men, 
vuo  then  built  up  over  it  a wall  of  mason  work,  even  with 
tb  surface  of  the  ground.  The  grave  rvas  dug  in  a di- 
ction north  and  south  ; the  head  was  placed  towards  the 
suth,  and  space  enough  left  on  one  side  of  the  body  to 
spport  the  weight  of  the  mason-work,  without  bearing 
vion  the  corpse : they  next  rolled  a stone  on  it,  formed 
t lime  and  small  pebbles  about  two  feet  square,  and  as 
lag  as  the  grave  ; this  they  placed  level  on  a bed  of  lime 
mrtar,  and  then  retired  without  speaking,  except  as  much 
; was  necessary  to  prompt  mutual  assistance  : the  women 
U this  time  keeping  up  their  howlings.  After  the  men 
I id  retired,  the  women  ceased  their  wailings,  and  seating 
'.emselves  alongside  the  wind-mill,  were  refreshed  by 
.ting  cakes,  and  drinking  copious  draughts  of  anniseed, 
:w  brandy,  which  had  been  previously  prepared  for  the 
urpose,  and  they  soon  became  as  merry  in  reality,  as  they 


304 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


had  before  appeared  to  be  sad.  While  these  women  w ■ 
regaling  themselves  in  this  manner,  I observed  an  !< 
woman  washing  the  corpse  of  a child  of  about  two  ye 
old,  in  the  surf : she  then  wrapped  it  up  in  a dirty  pi 
of  woollen  cloth,  and  carried  it  to  a man  who  had  b i 
digging  a hole  for  it  in  the  side  of  another  grave,  wit 
he  shoved  it  in  ; put  a flat  stone  before  it ; filled  up  l|< 
hole  with  stone  and  lime,  and  went  away  : one  worn 
only  attended  the  burial  of  the  child,  besides  her  v| 
wrapped  it  up  ; and  this  must  have  been  its  mother,  t 
judged  from  her  emotions  : she  sobbed  aloud,  while 
abundance  of  tears  trickled  down  her  wo- worn,  and  1 . 
rowed  cheeks.  I concluded  she  was  poor  and  a wido  : 
not  a soul  seemed  to  join  her,  or  pay  the  least  attentior ) 
her  grief  : after  a short  pause,  she  kissed  passionately  > 
stone  that  covered,  I presume,  the  remains  of  both 
husband  and  child  ; wet  it  with  her  tears  ; wiped  it  wit  i 
clean  white  cloth  she  had  in  her  hand,  and  returned  wei 
ing,  amid  the  brutal  scoff's  of  the  Moorish  boys,  as  : : 
dragged  herself  along  towards  her  cheerless  abode.  1 : 
women  who  had  assisted  at  the  other  burial,  had  by  1 > 
time  ended  their  repast,  and  they  went  round  amongst  : 
graves  : many  kissed  their  hands  and  laid  them  on 
grave-stones  of  their  deceased  relations,  while  othj 
kissed  the  rude  resemblance  of  a face  carved  on  the  stor 
others  plucked  up  the  weeds  and  grass  that  encroached  i 
the  grave,  or  replaced  the  earth  and  small  stones  whi  | 
had  been  dug  out  by  the  rats,  or  broken  off'  by  the  ci 
roding  tooth  of  time.  v 

On  my  way  home  to  Mr.  Wiltshire’s  house,  I learn 
that  the  corpse  of  the  man  that  was  buried,  was  that  of 
Levite,  who  was  poor,  and  had  not  been  able  for  a lo 
time  to  perform  the  duties  of  his  office,  and  was  burii 
by  charity ; I also  learned  from  Ben  Nahory,  Mr.  Wi 
shire’s  interpreter,  that  a priest,  or  rabbi,  had  arrived  fro 
Jerusalem,  to  gather  the  tribute  paid  yearly  by  all  t 
Jews  in  Barbary,  towards  the  support  of  the  few  Jevvi 
priests,  or  Levites,  who  are  permitted  to  reside  in  Jerus 
lem,  by  paying  a tribute  to  the  Grand  Seignior,  or  Suit; 
of  the  Turkish  empire,  and  for  purposes  of  traffic  : this 
called  a voluntary  contribution  for  the  support  of  Jerus 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


505 


i n.  All  the  Jews  in  these  countries  believe  that  their 
, tion  is  one  day  to  sway  the  sceptre  of  universal  domin- 
io,  and  that  Jerusalem  must  be  kept  as  a kind  of  pos- 
s >sion  until  the  time  arrives  predicted  by  their  prophets, 
men  the  little  stone  is  to  be  cut  out  without  hands  from 
tl:  mountain  of  Jerusalem,  and  is  to  fill  the  whole  earth. 
Lis  and  other  predictions,  constantly  and  adroitly  handled 

together  with  the  miseries  in- 
arbary  by  the  merciless  Moors, 


the  will  of  those  who  are  con- 


des,  and  who  rob  them  without 
rrcy,  under  the  pretext  of  applying  the  money  to  good 
ntT  eposes. 

\ schooner  arrived  from  Gibraltar  under  the  English 
lr,  though  a Genoese  vessel,  as  the  Barbary  powers 
t ve  at  war  with  Genoa:  she  brought  a cargo  of  dry 

*ds,  iron,  steel,  cotton,  &c.  to  Ben  Zagury,  a Jew : 
of  his  sons  came  passenger  in  the  vessel ; his  name 
i.  Elio  Zagury  ; he  was  a young  Jew,  was  dressed  in 
European  fashion,  had  been  educated  in  England,  and 
Jfke  the  English  language  fluently.  As  soon  as  he  had 
ea  his  father,  he  called  on  Mr.  Willshire,  and  to  see 
a ; expressed  great  joy  at  my  deliverance,  and  invited 
vl  Willshire,  myself,  and  Mr.  Savage,  to  dine  with  him 
tais  father’s  the  next  Saturday  : the  invitation  was  ac- 
eted,  because  I wanted  to  learn  some  of  the  Jewish 
titoms,  and  get  acquainted  with  the  priest  from  Jerusa- 
; , who  was  a guest  in  his  father’s  house.  On  our  ar- 
id there,  I was  presented  to  the  priest : he  was  a man 
i middling  stature,  dark  complexion,  short  hair,  and  a 
ast  venerable,  manly  beard,  that  reached  down  nearly 
pais  ceinture,  or  girdle  : his  dress  was  a brown  striped 
mtle,  that  buttoned  close  round  his  neck,  and  fell 
0[>ely  to  his  feet,  on  which  he  had  a pair' of  black  slip- 
>cs,  down  at  the  heel,  as  is  the  custom  of  Moorish 
j e rs  : his  head  was  covered  with  a camblet  coloured 
u aan,  very  high  : in  his  hand  he  held  a string  of  very 
r ;e  beads,  which  he  was  continually  counting  or  telling 
nr  : his  mantle  was  girt  above  his  hips  with  a brown 
i.  girdle  that  took  several  turns  round  him;  and  was 


superstitions,  and  render  them 


39 


306 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


about  six  inches  wide.  I accosted  him  in  Spanish,  wh  ji 
he  spoke  very  fluently — and  made  enquiries  of  him 
specting  the  present  city  of  Jerusalem  and  its  inhabitat 
From  his  answers  (as  he  was  very  intelligent)  I lean; 
that  Jerusalem  now  contains  thirty  thousand  Turks,  ;] 
twenty  thousand  Jews,  Armenians,  and  Greeks : tha 
very  brisk  trade  is  carried  on  there,  principally  by  Je  l 
between  it,  Persia,  Constantinople,  and  Jaffa,  which  Jt  5 
are  permitted  to  reside  there  and  trade,  on  paying  a trib : 
to  the  Grand  Seignior  : that  the  language  mostly  spol  1 
by  the  Jews  and  Christians  at  Jerusalem  is  the  Spanf  j: 
that  there  is  a convent  of  Christian  monks  near  it,  c. 
taininga  number  of  St.  Francisco’s  order,  &c. 

The  walls  of  Jerusalem  are  strong  and  well  built: 
religious  denominations  are  there  tolerated  by  paying  c 
tributions,.  and  protected  by  order  of  the  Grand  Seign 
provided  they  pay  the  soldiers  well  for  their  trouble.  1 
name  of  this  priest  was  Abraham  ben  Nassar : he  <said  i 
should  get  about  twenty  thousand  dollars  from  the  Ji 
in  the  Moorish  dominions,  and  carry  the  amount  of  c 
tributions  in  gold,  embarking  again  at  Tangier  for  C 
raltar,  where  he  should  deposit  the  money  while  he  w 
to  England,  France,  Holland  and  Germany,  for  the  saj 
purpose  : that  there  were  six  more  associated  with  1 1 
on  the  collecting  expeditions  : one  of  them  had  gone  ] 
Alexandria  and  other  parts  of  Egypt,  to  collect  from  ! 
Jews  there,  from  whence  he  would  return  by  way  of  : 
different  islands  in  the  Archipelago  : one  had  sailed  t 
Tripoli,  who  would  take  money  from  the  Jews  there  e] 
at  Malta ; thence  to  Italy  and  back  : one  had  gone : 
Tunis  and  its  various  towns,  and  would  go  from  thei 
to  Sicily  and  Sardinia,  and  back  : one  had  gone  to  Algi 
and  the  towns  in  that  regency,  and  would  go  from  thei 
to  ancient  Greece,  including  Venice,  and  that  part 
Germany  bordering  on  the  Venetian  gulf : one  had  go 
over  land  to  Russia,  and  would  meet  him  in  Germa- 
after  passing  through  Poland,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Pri 
sia,  &c.  I wished  to  have  an  estimate  of  the  sums  lik 
to  be  collected  in  all  those  places,  and  then  he  began 
be  a little  reserved.  However,  after  considerable  conv 
sation  and  solicitation,  he  one  day  gave  me  what  he  stall 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


SOT 


■ be  the  amount  of  collections  as  per  the  last  returns  of 
1 13,  which  he  had  with  him  in  Hebrew,  and  I set  it 
dwn  as  he  interpreted,  after  he  had  first  brought  the 
s acral  sums  into  Spanish  dollars  ; it  made  up  in  the  coun- 
ts already  mentioned,  five  hundred  and  eighty  thousand 
j liars  ; this  was  exclusive  of  the  expenses  of  collecting, 
af  travelling  out  and  returning  again  to  Jerusalem.  Ma- 
il individuals  of  the  priests  also  came  from  Jerusalem  to 
Erbary,  begging  on  their  own  account.  Out  of  this 
fid  a yearly  tribute  is  paid  to  the  Grand  Seignior,  be- 
5 es  impositions  in  the  form  of  presents  to  the  Turkish 
bfcers  ; and  the  remainder  serves  to  support  the  rabbies, 
,mo  are  very  numerous  in  Jerusalem,  and  for  commercial 
prposes  : thus  the  superstition  and  credulity  of  the  igno- 
■;  it  Jews  in  all  Europe  and  Africa,  as  well  as  in  Asia, 
ai  made  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  the  elders  of  that 
o gular  people,  who  still  reside,  by  permission,  at  Jeru- 
slern. 


The  city  of  Jerusalem  lies  from  thirty  to  forty  miles 
e it  of  Jaffy,  a small  port  on  the  Mediterranean  sea  : from 
mice  to  Jerusalem  the  road  is  good,  and  the  priest  told 
re  he  had  walked  the  distance  in  two  days.  Jaffy  is  the 
prt  anciently  called  Joppa  : it  has  a small  town  and  fort- 
r;s,  and  considerable  trade  with  Jerusalem,  the  islands  in 
? fcfe  Archipelago,  and  with  Egypt,  and  some  with  Malta 
ad  Italy  ; here  the  Jewish  priests,  who  are  sent  out  ori 
Egging  expeditions,  embark,  and  return  by  way  of  the 
<me  place,  generally  in  Greek  vessels  of  small  burthen, 
fit  very  well  built  and  manned. 

The  priest  asked  me  many  questions  respecting  Ameri- 
■ ]4  of  w hich  he  knew  but  very  little,  and  thought  it  was 
avilderness  or  a desert.  After  I had  put  him  right  in 
igard  to  those  points,  and  informed  him  we  had  many 
. ws  in  America,  where  they  enjoyed  every  kind  of  privi- 
]ge  in  common  with  people  of  other  religions  ; that  they 
>uld  hold  landed  estates,  &c.  and  that  many  of  them 
ere  very  rich,  he  declared  that  as  soon  as  he  should 
tve  finished  his  present  tour,  which  would  still  detain 
m more  than  a year,  he  would  try  to  obtain  leave  to 
sit  America,  and  collect  the  dues  there.  I informed  him 
tat  our  Jews  were  not  so  superstitious,  nor  in  such  bad 


308 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


repute,  as  those  in  Africa  or  Europe,  where  they  wt  ■ 
looked  upon  as  a set  of  sharpers  and  villains  : “ That  tin 
be,  (said  he,)  but  if  they  are  Jews,  they  must  confoi 
to  the  laws  of  Moses,  and  must  contribute  towards  t 
support  of  those  of  their  nation  who  reside  in  the  H< 
Land,  in  order  to  be  ready  for  the  future  conquest  of  . 
rusalem,  which  would  be  the  fulfilment  of  God’s  pro, 
ises  to  his  people.”  I asked  him  in  what  manner  tli 
collected  this  contribution?  and  he  told  me,  that  “ havi 
letters  from  the  chief  priest  and  elders  at  Jerusalem,  1 ; 
collectors  (who  are  always  priests)  were  kindly  receiv 
and  well  treated  by  all  Jews  wherever  they  came  ; tl 
soon  after  their  arrival  in  any  place  where  synagogues  s 
established,  they  convene  all  the  Jews  together,  and  havi 
laid  before  them  the  authority  by  which  they  make  t 
demand,  they  then  proceed,  with  the  assistance  of  t 
priests  and  chief  Jews  of  the  place,  to  class  them,  a 
apportion  the  sum  to  be  raised  amongst  them  accordi 
to  their  ability:  when  this  is  done,  the  tax  must  be  pa 
without  delay:  it  takes  up  six  or  eight  months  time 
make  up  the  sums  and  finish  the  collections  in  the  emp 
of  Morocco. 

The  Jews  in  West  Barbary  are  as  completely  unc 
the  control  of  the  Moors,  as  if  they  were  slaves,  thou; 
they  fancy  themselves  in  some  measure  free  : even  thi 
dress  is  regulated  by  a Moorish  law  ; that  of  the  mi 
consists  of  a shirt,  without  a collar,  and  wide  petticc 
drawers  that  come  tight  below  the  knees  ; the  sleeves 
the  shirt,  which  are  of  the  full  breadth,  of  coarse  musl 
cloth,  fall  a little  below  their  elbows,  and  are  not  plaite 
in  any  way,  but  hang  flowing  : they  wear  above  the  shii 
a jacket  with  short  sleeves  to  their  elbows — the  jacket 
generally  made  of  green  woollen  cloth,  with  a small  cc 
lar,  buttoned  tight  round  the  lower  part  of  the  neck  ; 
is  sometimes  wrought  with  needle- work  from  the  collar 
the  waist  in  front,  with  which,  and  small  round  button 
made  from  the  same  materials,  it  is  almost  covered : the 
hook  this  together  with  wire  hooks  ; and  again  over  thi 
those  who  can  afford  it  have  a black  cotton  mantle,  whic 
comes  over  their  shoulders,  and  falls  down  to  the  calv< 
of  their  legs—this  is  so  contrived,  that  one  end  can  1 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


309 


.-own  over  the  left  shoulder  in  such  a manner  as  to  dis- 
cver  the  drawers  : they  are  girded  with  sashes  of  various 
clours  over  the  mantle  round  about  their  loins  : they 
war  long  beards,  and  black  woollen  caps  on  the  back 
ret  of  their  heads,  leaving  the  forehead  uncovered,  which 
j shaved  often,  and  kept  smooth.  The  four  merchants 
tat  lived  in  Mogadore,  wore  coloured  silk  handkerchiefs 
c their  heads,  covering  their  caps,  and  tied  loosely  under 
tsir  chins:  they  also  go  bare  legged,  and  wear  black 
sppers  on  their  feet,  as  the  luxury  of  coloured  slippers 
ff'-ae  forbidden  them.  In  riding,  they  were  formerly  re- 
dsdeted  to  the  ass  alone,  but  now  they  use  mules,  which 
tby  are  not,  however,  allowed  to  mount  or  ride  within 
tje  gates  of  the  city.  When  Jews  or  Jewesses  ai"e  about 
t pass  a mosque,  or  place  of  worship,  they  must  take  off 
t.ir  slippers,  and  carry  them  in  their  hands,  going  bare- 
c fot  past  it,  and  that  too,  until  they  enter  another  street. 
The  dress  here  described,  is  that  of  the  wealthy  who 
cn  afford  it,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  Jews  in  West 
Lrbary,  are  poor,  miserable,  and  covered  with  rags  and 
yrmin,  A Jewess  of  the  first  class,  is  clad  with  a shirt 
ndc  of  muslin,  that  is  very  wide;  the  sleeves,  not  less 
tan  a yard,  hang  loosely  down  to  the  elbow,  when  the 
t o hinder  parts  are  doubled  and  fastened  together  be- 
1 id  their  backs  ; the  bosom  of  this  shirt  is  wrought 
vth  fine  needle- work  on  both  sides  ; it  laps  over  before, 
c d covers  part  of  the  breasts  : a white  waistcoat,  wrought 
i like  manner,  is  superadded  : the  lower  extremity  of 
t is  is  covered  by  a wrapper,  in  form  of  short  petticoats, 
trapped  round  above  the  hips,  and  just  laps  over  in  front ; 
is  is  commonly  made  of  green  broad  cloth,  and  falls 
own  below  the  knees : the  two  lower  corners  in  front, 
:e  covered  with  a fancifully  cut  piece  of  red  broad  cloth — 
ie  whole  is  fastened  together  by  a girdle  round  the  hips, 

> which  are  suspended  behind  a number  of  red  woollen 
irds  of  different  lengths,  hanging  down  with  a piece  of 
fated  silver,  or  other  metal,  bent  round  each  at  its  lowest 
|nd ; these  make  a kind  of  tinkling  when  they  walk  by, 
rfriking  against  each  other.  Their  hair  is  long,  coarse, 
id  black,  and  the  principal  part  turned  up,  and  fastened 
n the  top  of  the  head,  while  two  small  braids  from  be- 


310 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


hind  each  ear,  are  attached  together  at  their  extremiti 
and  fall  down  to  their  girdles. 

Married  women  of  the  first  class,  cover  their  hea 
with  a flowing  silk  handkerchief.  Both  married  and  sins 
women,  are  extremely  fond  of  ornaments,  and  are  ger 
rally  corpulent : they  wear  amber  and  pearl  necklac< 
with  golden  hearts,  set  about  with  fine  diamonds  ai 
other  precious  stones  : many  other  ornaments  are  al 
hung  to  their  necklaces,  which  are  frequently  connect 
by  golden  chains  : they  wear  silver  or  gold  bracelp 
around  their  wrists  and  ankles,  from  one  to  two  inch 
wide,  enriched  with  enamel  and  precious  stones.  I e 
amined  several  of  these  ornaments  : they  are  made  of  t 
finest  gold,  silver,  and  stones,  and  the  best  amber  : t 
weight  of  the  four  bracelets  on  the  wrists  and  ankles  of 
young  girl,  (a  broker’s  daughter,)  was  fourteen  ounct 
and  they  cost,  together  with  her  necklaces,  ear  and  fing( 
rings,  and  other  ornaments,  about  two  thousand  dollai 
Those  of  the  Jews  who  can  get  money,  are  excessive 
fond  of  ornamenting  their  wives  and  daughters,  and  settii 
off  their  charms  to  the  very  best  advantage  ; for  it  is  thi 
interest  to  do  so  : but  there  are  very  few  of  them  tli 
have  the  ability  : not  more  than  twenty  Jews  in  Mogado 
can  afford  this  expense  ; and  but  few  of  the  rest  can  fu 
nish  their  wives  and  daughters  with  bracelets  of  even  ba 
metal,  washed  over  with  silver  or  gold  ; yet  every  worn; 
feels  as  if  she  were  naked,  without  some  ornaments 
this  description. 

The  Jews  are  forced  to  live  in  a town  by  themselve 
called  el  Millah,  but  the  Moors  enter  it  whenever  the 
choose,  without  the  smallest  restraint,  and  go  into  the 
houses  without  any  ceremony,  where  they  take  whatevi 
liberties  they  please  with  them,  their  wives  and  daugh 
ters.  The  Moor  compliments  the  women,  and  no  Bai 
bary  Jew  thinks  it  a disgrace  to  wear  antlers,  provide 
they  are  gilded.  Should  a Jew  attempt  to  resist  a Moo 
on  any  occasion,  he  is  sure  of  getting  a sound  drubbing 
and  as  his  testimony  cannot  be  taken  against  a Moor,  atr 
more  than  that  of  a negro  slave  in  the  West  Indies  an< 
the  southern  states  of  America,  can  be  given  against ; 
white  man  ; he  is  forced  to  pocket  every  affront,  and  coil 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


311 


tat  himself  therewith  : so  that  to  a Jew,  a handsome 
vie  or  daughter,  in  Barbary,  while  young,  ensures  to 
I r husband  or  father  a competence,  and  of  course  a con- 
science among  his  brethren. 

The  Jews’  Sunday  begins  on  Friday  evening  at  sunset, 
;ier  which  time  no  Jew  can  even  light  a candle  or  lamp, 
c kindle  a fire,  or  cook  any  thing  until  Saturday  night,  at 
same  hour ; so  that  they  heat  their  ovens  on  Friday  ; 

] t in  their  provisions  before  night,  for  their  next  day’s 
Ifcals,  and  let  it  stand  in  the  ovens  until  Saturday  noon, 
rien  it  is  taken  out,  and  set  on  the  table,  or  on  the  floor, 
t Moors,  whom  they  contrive  to  hire  for  that  purpose. 
Jyery  Jew  who  can  afford  it,  has  brass  or  silver  lamps 
inging  up  in  his  house,  which  are  lighted  on  Friday  and 
r t extinguished  until  Sunday  morning  : they  burn  either 
c:ve  or  argan  oil.  Their  principal  and  standing  Sunday 
timer,  is  called  skanah  ; it  is  made  of  peas  baked  in  an 
cen  for  nearly  twfenty-four  hours,  with  a quantity  of 
teves’  marrow  bones,  (having  very  little  meat  on  them) 
1 oken  to  pieces  over  them  : it  is  a very  luscious  and  fat- 
tening dish,  and  by  no  means  a bad  one  : this,  with  a few 
t'getables,  and  sometimes  a plum-pudding,  good  bread, 
ad  Jews’  brandy,  distilled  from  figs  and  anniseed,  and 
Ittered  with  wormwood,  makes  up  the  repast  of  the  Jews 
iho  call  themselves  rich.  The  poor  can  only  afford 
kanah  and  barley-bread  on  their  Sunday,  and  live  the 
ist  of  the  week  as  they  can.  They  make  no  scruple  of 
ffering  for  money  their  wives  and  daughters,  who  are  vo- 
Iptuous  in  the  extreme.  The  men  and  boys  attend  their 
j nagogues,  (on  their  Sundays,)  of  which  there  are  twelve 
i Mogadore  ; but  these  are  no  more  than  small  rooms, 
here  all  join  in  jabbering  over  prayers  in  Hebrew,  as  fast 
; i they  can  speak,  every  one  in  his  own  natural  tone  of 
)ice,  making  altogether  a most  barbarous  kind  of  jargon. 
The  Jewish  women  are  considered  by  the  men  as  hav- 
ig  no  souls,  nor  are  they  allowed  generally  to  enter  the 
magogues,  nor  do  the  women  partake  of  their  sacra- 
lents.  The  sacraments  consist  of  bread  and  wine,  and 
f circumcision.  While  in  Mogadore,  I attended  a 
:wish  circumcision.  The  child  being  ready,  and  the 
iends  present,  the  priest  took  him  on  his  left  arm,  having 


312  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

a pair  of  silver  tongs  in  his  left  hand,  with  which  ; 
gauged  and  prepared  the  parts,  and  performed  the  ope . 
tion  with  a sharp  knife  he  had  in  his  right  hand,  cuttij 
off  a piece  of  the  flesh,  as  well  as  all  the  foreskin:  t| 
appeared  to  me  to  be  a painful  and  cruel  operation,  'and 
made  the  infant  scream  out  most  piteously.  The  Jel 
circumcise  at  the  age  of  eight  days,  and  the  Moors  ai 
Arabs  at  the  age  of  eight  years  ; the  Arabs  cut  the  fo 
skin  and  flesh  olf  square,  as  well  as  the  Jews;  but  with 1 1 
Arabs,  as  I have  before  observed,  it  is  a preventive  i 
disease,  and  not  a religious  rite.  For  a view  of  the  Jew  J 
costume,  and  manner  of  performing  this  ceremony 
West  Barbary,  see  plate  No.  8. 

During  my  journey  towards  Tangier,  when  we  put 
at  Saflfy,  during  the  Jews’  Sabbath,  having  two  Jews 
company,  who  had  friends  or  relations  in  that  place  tl 
entertained  them,  and  furnished  a supper.  Before  eatir; 
they  brought  forward  a cup  in  the  form  of  a tankard,  aij 
some  white  bread,  in  which  some  green  herbs  had  be 
chopped  up,  and  mixed  with  it  before  baking : they 
arose  at  once,  formed  a circle  round  the  supper  dish,  co' 
sisting  of  boiled  fowls,  which  was  set  on  the  floor,  ai ; 
when  standing,  all  began  to  chant  over  their  prayers  : 
Hebrew,  as  fast  as  they  could  speak  : there  were  abo 
twenty  in  all,  relations  and  visitors.  As  I tvas  ignorant  > 
the  Hebrew  language,  which  they  spoke,  and  which  I ai 
old,  differs  materially  from  that  taught  in  the  schools  ar 
colleges  of  our  country,  I could  not  join  with  them.  Th 
chant,  discordant  enough  to  be  sure,  to  my  ear,  took  u 
at  least  a quarter  of  an  hour.  When  they  were  about  t 
finish,  they  passed  round  the  bread,  of  which  each  or 
took  a piece,  and  not  to  be  singular,  I took  one  also  an 
ate  it.  After  saying  over  a few  more  words,  they  hande 
round  the  cup  to  all,  and  each  took  a drink,  keeping  u 
their  chant  all  the  time — when  it  came  round  to  me, 
took  it  and  drank  a little  : it  was  wine,  made  by  stcepin: 
dry  raisins  in  water,  and  to  me  not  very  palatable,  bein| 
somewhat  sour  and  bitter.  After  the  cup  had  gone  round; 
all.  turned  their  faces  to  the  east,  bowed  thrice,  bendim 
their  bodies  more  than  half  way  to  the  ground,  stili  going 
on  with  their  chant.  As  soon  as  they  had  done  worship} 


OBSERVATIONS  OX  AFRICA. 


ng,  they  resumed  their  places  round  the  dish,  seized 
«.ch  other  by  the  hand,  giving  it  a convulsive  grasp,  and 
amping  at  the  same  time  with  their  feet : this  terminated 
e ceremony*  The  chant  being  finished,  all  took  their 
ats  around  the  dish  as  near  as  they  could  get,  on  their 
^s  and  on  the  floor,  having  first  washed  their  hands  : 
me  vigorously  seized  the  boiled  fowls,  which  they  soon 
irved,  by  pulling  them  to  pieces,  and  then  passed  those 
|eces  round  to  the  company.  Their  bread  was  made  of 
® irley-meal ; this  they  dipped  in  the  dish,  after  each  bite, 
Id  c lied  it  a sop  : the  gravy  in  which  they  dipped  their 
® 'ead,  was  the  liquor  in  which  the  fowls  had  been  boiled, 
ixed  with  vinegar.  This  was  on  Friday  evening,  Janu- 
P®  y the  6th,  1816,  about  9 o’clock,  P.  M.  On  the  next 
to  ening,  they  repeated  the  same  ceremonies.  After  sup- 
r,  they  amused  themselves  by  singing  songs  in  Arabic, 
d telling  stories,  which  they  kept  up  with  great  glee 
1 ttil  near  midnight,  when,  at  my  intreaty,  they  retired 
r the  night,  as  I wished  to  get  some  rest. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


’ew  orders  arrive  from  the  Emperor — Mr.  Wiltshire  is 
grossly  insulted  by  Moors — A description  of  the  city  and 
port  of  Swearah,  or  Mogadore — its  inhabitants, 
mem , manufactures , Idc. 


com - 


About  the  last  of  November,  a courier  came  to  Moga- 
ore  from  the  emperor  to  the  governor,  ordering  him  not 
i suffer  a Moor  to  serve  either  a Christian  or  Jew,  under 
ay  pretence  whatever,  or  to  live  in  their  houses,  under 
’e  severest  penalty:  this  letter  was ‘no  sooner  read,  than 
' e news  flew  to  every  part  of  the  town.  In  consequence 
’ this  order,  Rais  Bel  Cossim,  Bel  Mooden,  and  a Moor 
' the  name  of  Soliman,  who  had  been  constantly  in  and- 
>out  Mr.  Willshire’s  house,  durst  not  return  even  to 
ke  their  leave  : the  life  of  a Christian  previous  to  this 
as  haigly  safe,  even  in  the  city,  without  a Moor  in 
ampam  to  ward  off  the  insults  of  the  bovs  and  those  of 

40 


314 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


the  Moors  who  were  vicious  or  fanatical.  New  order 
had  also  been  given  to  the  guards  of  the  water-port,  nc 
to  allow  any  one  to  go  on  board  vessels,  except  the  caj 
tains  and  crews,  without  a special  order  from  the  govei ; 
nor. 

On  new-year’s  day,  captains  Mackay  and  Henderson,  < 
whom  I have  before  spoken,  dined  with  Mr.  Wiltshire 
when  they  went  down  to  go  on  board  their  vessels,  Mi 
Wiltshire  and  myself  went  to  take  a walk  round  the  watei 
port,  it  being  low  tide  : the  guards  ran  after  us,  seize 
hold  of  Mr.  Wiltshire,  and  turning  him  round,  bid  hin 
in  an  insulting  tone,  to  go  back,  uttering  the  most  abt 
sive  language  ; and  drawing  their  scimitars,  they  threa 
ened  to  cut  him  down.  We  had  no  Moor  with  us  1 
witness  this  insult,  but  Mr.  Willshire’s  spirit  could  n< 
brook  this  indignity,  and  he  rebuked  these  fellows  in 
very  resolute  manner,  bidding  defiance  to  them  and  tl 
Aicayd,  and  told  them  that  if  they  offered  to  touch  hii 
again,  he  would  revenge  himself  instantly,  and  at  any  ran 
would  complain  to  the  emperor,  and  would  cause  then 
to  lose  their  heads  for  insulting  a consul  and  a merchan 
I advised  him  to  return  to  the  port,  which  he  did ; bi 
die  Moors  were  so  enraged,  that  they  ran  with  all  speed  i 
the  Aicayd,  and  told  him  that  Mr.  Wiltshire  had  be; 
them  ; that  he  called  them  hard  names,  and  defied  tl 
power  of  the  Sultan.  Immediately  soldiers  were  sei 
after  him,  who  came  up  with  us  before  we  got  to  h 
house  : they  insisted  on  taking  him  before  the  Alcay 
forthwith  by  force,  if  he  would  not  go  without ; he  toi 
them,  however,  that  he  must  and  would  wait  for  his  Je 
interpreter,  Nahory,  and  that  then  lie  would  come  : th 
answer  was  carried  to  the  Aicayd,  and  in  a few  momen 
Ben  Nahory  made  his  appearance,  and  they  went  befoi 
the  Aicayd  together.  The  Aicayd  reprimanded  M 
Wiltshire  for  having  cursed  the  Sultan,  and  advised  hii 
to  settle  the  business,  by  giving  a present  to  the  guard 
as  they  would  depose  against  him  before  the  Cadi,  whic 
if  they  should  do,  he  would  be  obliged  to  go  up  to  M( 

, rocco  to  the  emperor,  and  he  (the  governor)  said  1 
could  not  be  answerable  for  the  result.  Mr.  Willshii 
defended  himself  so  well  by  the  help  of  his  interprete 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


315 


5ho  was  a cunning  Jew,  that  his  accusers  began  to  lower 
leir  tone  a little  : he  stated  that  he  had  the  Sultan’s  letter, 
rhich  ordered  the  governors  and  Alcayds  to  see  his  person 
rotected  from  insult,  as  well  as  his  property,  and  that  the 
te  order  had  deprived  him  of  the  aid  and  evidence  of  a 
loor,  to  which  he  was  entitled  by  that  letter  : he  added, 
lat  he  would  write  the  Sultan  an  account  of  the  insult 
iimediately,  and  of  the  villainy  of  the  port  guards,  but 
•ould  not  pay  a blanquille,  (i.  e.  a farthing)  to  any  one. 
"he  Alcayd  said  he  was  ordered  to  protect  him  and  the 
:her  Christians  in  the  port,  and  wished  them  to  be  re- 
jected, but  they  must  respect  themselves,  and  by  way 
5 an  excuse,  remarked  that  the  consuls  at  Tangier  did 
ot  go  down  with  the  captains  that  have  the  honour  of 
< ning  with  them,  to  their  boats  after  dinner  ; that  this  was 
fcrogatory  to  the  etiquette  due  to  their  office  ; but,  at  the 
i me  time,  calling  the  guards,  he  told  them  that  Mr. 
Villshire  was  the  Sultan’s  consul ; that  they  must  never 
ly  a finger  on  him  ; but  if  he  should  wish  to  go  off  in 
oe  of  the  boats  of  the  vessels  in  port,  they  must  permit 
im  to  get  into  the  boat,  but  prevent  it  from  going  off 
mil  they  sent  him  information,  in  order  that  he  might 
ive  a permit  for  him  to  go  on  board.  He  further  told 
le  guards  that  they  had  done  very  wrong,  and  if  they 
’ere  not  careful  in  future  he  should  dismiss  them.  The 
uards  were  very  angry,  and  said  it  was  intolerable  for  a 
.loor  to  be  insulted  with  impunity  by  a Christian  dog ; 
'tat  they  would  swear  against  him  before  the  Cadi  that 
: stant  ; that  they  did  not  fear  his  (the  governor’s)  power, 
id  they  would  appeal  to  the  Sultan  and  abide  his  deci- 
on.  As  they  were  going  to  the  Cadi,  the  Alcayd  told 
em  if  they  did  contrary  to  his  orders  it  would  cost  them 
eir  heads,  and  bid  them  return  to  their  duty  immediately  ; 
id  in  order  that  there  might  be  no  further  complaint  on 
eir  part,  he  would  make  inquiry,  and  have  justice  done 
• them  as  well  as  to  the  consul : thus  ended  the  affair, 
hich  I at  first  was  apprehensive  would  be  attended  with 
lore  serious  consequences.  Mr.  Willshire,  however, 
10k  care  to  send  presents  to  the  Addals,  or  four  assistants 
? the  Alcayd,  who  took  occasion  to  convince  the  Alcayd, 
tat  the  guards  were  in  the  wrong— however,  we  durs£ 


S16 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


not  go  out  walking  or  riding  as  formerly,  but  were  obligi 
to  restrict  ourselves  to  the  city,  and  I had  time  to  examii 
it  within  and  round  about. 

The  city  of  Mogadore,  called  Swearah  by  the  Moo 
and  Arabs,  or  the  beautiful  picture,  is  situated  on  tl 
Atlantic  ocean,  in  latitude  31.  15.  (thirty-one  degree 
fifteen  minutes)  north,  and  longitude  9 — (nine  degree 
west  from  London.  It  is  built  somewhat  in  form  of  i I 
oblong  square  : its  length  from  north  to  south  is  aboi 
three  fourths  of  a mile,  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  n 
more  than  half  a mile  : it  stands  on  a peninsula  that  hi 
been  recovered  from  the  sea,  which  washes  its  walls  ( 
the  W.  N.  W.  and  south  sides  every  tide,  and  is  sonn 
times  completely  surrounded  by  water  at  high  springtide 
The  walls  are  built  of  stone  and  lime,  generally  six  fe 
thick  at  their  base,  and  about  twenty  feet  in  height,  su 
mounted  with  small  turrets  ; and  have  batteries  of  cannc 
on  them  at  every  angle  : the  walls  generally  are  made  i 
rough  stone  and  small  sea  pebbles,  mixed  and  cementi 
together  by  liquid  lime-mortar,  filling  up  every  crac 
solid  ; they  are  plastered  over . with  this  kind  of  stuct 
within  and  without,  and  are  thick,  solid,  very  firm  ar 
hard.  On  the  eastern  angle,  as  you  approach  the  gate 
there  is  a round  tower  built  of  hewn  stone,  thirty  fe 
high,  mounted  with  about  forty  pieces  of  brass  and  ire 
cannon,  that  command  the  approaches  of  the  city  on  tl 
east  side,  assisted  by  the  four  batteries  on  the  N,  E.  angl 
and  a heavy  battery  on  the  water-port.  It  is  divided  int 
three  ports — clKsebah , or  the  strong  and  lion-like  fortres 
is  the  southernmost,  and  is  surrounded  by  a double  wa 
on  the  east  and  south  sides  ; a single  wall,  but  very  thicl 
next  the  sea,  where  there  is  a strong  bomb-proof  batten 
mounting  about  forty  pieces  of  cannon  of  different  cal 
bers,  and  most  of  them  are  of  brass : this  is  its  whole  dc 
fence  on  the  seaboard.  Vessels  of  war  might  anchor,  il 
smooth  weather,  within  half  cannon  shot  of  the  town,  i 
thirty  fathoms  water,  rocky  bottom.  This  town  is  sept 
rated  from  the  main  town  by  a strong  wall,  whose  gate 
are  regularly  shut  at  8 o’clock  every  evening,  and  nc 
opened  until  broad  daylight  the  next  morning.  Th 
Christian  merchants  reside  in  the  fortress,  and  the  fou 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


O 1 W 

31  / 

e/  merchants  keep  their  goods  in  it.  The  next  is  the 
run  town,  where  the  market  is  held,  and  where  the  Br- 
ibers live  : there  is  a very  handsome  square  set  apart  in 
hjc  section  of  the  town  for  a grain  market,  surrounded 
n small  shops,  kept  by  Moors  and  Jews  : these  shops 
r on  the  ground  floor,  have  a door,  but  no  window  to 
hm,  and  are  so  very  small  that  the  keeper  can  sit  at  his  - 
RUxje  in  the  centre  and  reach  every  article  in  them.  They, 
apng  other  things,  manufacture  at  Mogadore  large  quali- 
fies of  haicks,  which  are  made  of  woollen  yarn,  spun  by 
lpd  with  a common  iron  spindle,  and  wove  in  common 
val'Cigh  looms  similar  to  such  as  we  made  use  of,  even  in 
isaAnerica,  not  more  than  fifty  years  ago — they  throw  the 
gtsl  ttle  by  hand,  and  weave  their  pieces  about  five  yards 
iisicg  and  six  feet  wide,  and  they  are  sold  from  the  looms 
it,  sit;bout  two  dollars  each,  but  are  not  allowed  to  be  ex- 
caw'ted  by  sea  : they  also  make  axes  and  many  other  iron 
els,  such  as  adzes,  scimitars,  knives,  8tc.  East  of  the 
tin  town  is  the  town  occupied  by  the  blacks,  in  a corner 
i) kind  of  a triangle  made  by  the  outer  wall : it  is  said  to 

itain  two  thousand  free  blacks  : this  part  is  also  walled 
>y  itself,  and  has  its  gates  shut  every  night.  Tire  ne- 
ss that  are  free  enjoy  nearly  all  the  privileges  of  the 
ors,  being  of  the  same  religion  ; still  they  are  not 
wed  to  live  together  promiscuously. 

The  fourth  division  is  the  Jews’  town,  or  Millah  : it  is 
vry  confined,  and  occupies  the  northwest  angle  of  the 
cy  : the  sea  washes  its  outer  wall  every  tide,  and  has 
rarly  beat  it  through  on  the  west  side  : it  is  divided  from 
tfe  principal  town  by  a high  strong  wall.  The  Millah 
is  but  one  gate,  which  is  on  its  eastern  side,  near  the 
nrth  city  gate  ; this  is  always  strongly  guarded,  and  has 
^governor  or  alcayd  to  adjust  and  settle  disputes  between 
1e  Jews,  and  between  them  and  the  Moors.  The  water- 
prt  is  two  hundred  yards  south  of  the  city,  within  the 
iter  wall — this  is  a wall  built  of  hewn  stone,  with  several 
iches,  through  which  the  tide  flows  and  ebbs  : the  wall 
about  twenty  feet  thick,  and  has  a strong  battery  of 
lavy  cannon  well  mounted  on  it,  for  the  defence  of  the 
irbour : it  is  extremely  well  built ; its  arches  are  well 
irned,  and  the  whole  work  would  bear  a comparison 


318 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


with  an  European  fortress.  The  harbour  spreads  it:  { 
before  the  town  to  the  south,  and  is  shielded  from  the  \ 
by  an  island  about  two  miles  long,  and  half  a mile  bro  , 
only  distant  from  the  water-port  point  about  five  hundi 
yards.  Between  the  island  and  the  water-port,  the  vessi 
enter,  keeping  the  island  side  close  on  board,  until  tl 
run  down  half  the  length  of  it,  when  they  may  anchor 
two  and  a half  fathoms  at  low  water,  within  a cable’s  len^ 
of  the  island,  and  with  good  cables  and  anchors  ride  s; 
during  three  quarters  of  the  year;  but  vessels  drawi 
over  fourteen  feet  water  cannot  ride  secure  on  account 
the  shallowness  of  the  harbour.  In  the  months  of  L 
cember,  January,  and  February,  strong  gales  prevail  frc 
the  westward,  which  heave  in  such  heavy  swells  rou 
the  two  ends  of  this  island,  that  what  seamen  call  1 
send  or  swing  of  the  sea,  breaks  the  strongest  cables,  a 
forces  all  the  vessels  in  this  port  on  shore.  In  the  wint 
of  1815,  an  English  brig  was  driven  on  shore  with  a fi 
cargo,  and  totally  lost  ; another  parted  her  cables,  at 
was  driven  fast  towards  the  water-port,  when  the  mas! 
and  crew  deserted  her  in  their  boat,  in  hopes  of  savii 
their  lives  ; but  the  boat  was  upset,  and  all  hands  we 
either  drowned  or  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  rocks  ; ti 
brig’s  cables,  however,  caught  round  some  craggy  rock 
which  held  her  through  the  remainder  of  the  gale,  thout 
within  a few  feet  of  the  rocks  astern.  An  Americ; 
schooner’s  crew  were  also  lost  in  this  port  a few  yeai 
ago,  together  with  her  supercargo,  in  consequence  < 
quitting  the  vessel,  and  taking  to  their  boat,  while  tl: 
captain,  who  was  soliciting  assistance  from  the  oth( 
vessels  in  port,  was  saved,  and  the  schooner  was  als 
finally  saved,  though  she  had  been  totally  abandoned : 
is  in  the  winter  a very  dangerous  port,  and  any  vesst 
entering  it  should  have  three  good  cables  and  anchors,  t 
moor  her  head  and  stern  by,  and  should  strike  her  yard 
and  topmasts  immediately. 

The  island  is  called  Mogadore  by  the  Europeans,  am 
was  thus  named  by  the  Portuguese  or  Spaniards,  whei 
they  first  partially  surveyed  this  coast,  and  thence  th< 
European  name  of  Mogadore,  is  derived  for  the  town 
and  not  from  the  sanctuary  or  saint-house  near  it,  whicl 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA; 


319 


Arabic  is  called  Milliah.  This  island  serves  as  a State 
son  lor  the  Moorish  empire  : it  is  fortified  and  strongly 
irded,  commonly  containing  not  less  than  one  thousand 
itte  prisoners,  who  have  mostly  been  Alcavds  and  mili- 
ar men,  and  who  are  frequently  pardoned  and  restored 
jheir  former  posts  again,  after  a few  years’  trial  of  their 
a itude  and  patience  there  in  irons.  Provisions  are  sent 
he  island  twice  a week  in  good  weather.  All  commu- 
irtion  with  the  island  is  forbidden  to  strangers,  under 
(jrJai  of  death.  On  a rocky  point,  without  the  water-  port, 
-.Brest  to  the  island,  stands  a circular  battery,  to  defend 
0[P  entrance  of  the  harbour,  and  protect  the  island  : on 
jjjh  east  side  of  the  harbour,  near  the  Sultan’s  palace,, 
re  is  also  a circular  battery,  well  built  of  stone,  calcu- 
itd  to  mount  twenty  guns,  but  the  guns  that  had  been 
a anted  on  it  were  taken  away,  under  an  impression  that 
If  might  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Arabs,  who  attacked 
j,  w-arah  during  the  quarrel  for  the  succession,  which  was 
aminated  in  the  elevation  of  the  present  Sultan,  Muley 
Mman,  to  the  Moorish  throne. 

ivvearah  or  Mogadore  was  built  by  Sidi  Mohammed, 
n father  of  Muley  Soliman,  who  spared  no  pains  or  ex- 
it se  in  making  it  correspond  with  its  name  : it  is  the 
Jy  tolerable  seaport  in  the  Moorish  dominions,  except 

tigier,  and  the  only  one  in  which  foreign  vessels  are 
wed  a kind  of  free  trade,  or  one  without  special  li- 
ses  : the  houses  are  built  of  rough  stone  and  lime  j 
u Irom  one  to  three  stories  high,  and  nearly  all  have  flat 
faced  roofs  : the  streets  are  narrow,  and  some  of  them 
ihost  entirely  covered  with  houses  arched  or  projecting 
o|r  them,  particularly  in  the  fortress  part : the  buildings 
r first,  it  is  said,  were  erected  under  the  inspection  of 
■pans,  who  were  brought  from  Europe  for  the  purpose  : 
it  s by  far  the  neatest  town  in  the  empire,  and  is  com- 
f ted  to  contain  about  thirty  thousand  Moors  and  blacks, 
ai  six  thousand  Jews.  During  the  contest  for  the  suc- 
cssion,  at  the  death  of  Muley  Eitzid,  who  reigned  a short 
trie  after  the  death  of  Sidi  Mohammed,  Swearah  was 
sacked  by  surprise  in  the  night,  and  about  three  thou- 
5 id  of  the  assailants  entered  the  fortress  part  over  the 
^ dls,  and  actually  got  possession  of  the  streets ; but  they 


320 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


were  soon  destroyed  by  the  garrison  and  town’s  peel 
from  the  roofs  of  their  houses  ; and  the  army  befor  j 
consisting  of  field-Moors  and  Arabs,  were  put  to  fli'i 
It  has  been  since  visited  and  nearly  depopulated  twice 
the  plague,  which  spread  terror  and  devastation  in  all  I 
western  part  of  the  empire.  Mercantile  trade  was  1 
encouraged  by  its  founder,  and  flourished  to  a great 
tent ; large  quantities  of  wheat  were  sent  from  henc 
Spain  and  Portugal ; sheep’s  wool  and  the  gums  were  !( 
shipped  in  great  abundance;  namely,  gum-sandar;i 
arabic,  &c.  &c. — almonds,  olives,  dates,  dried  figs,  : 
large  quantities  of  olive-oil,  bees- wax,  and  honey — an  i 
cummin,  worm,  and  other  medicinal  seeds — pomej . 
nate  peel,  and  many  other  drugs — goat,  calf,  and  a \ 
camels’  skins,  and  camels’  hair — haicks  for  the  Gu  ; 
trade,  and  many  other  articles.  Their  imports  were  1 
iron  and  steel,  knives,  and  other  cutlery,  raw  cotton, 
many  kinds  of  manufactured  cotton  goods,  woollen  clo : 
silks,  and  silk  handkerchiefs,  teas,  sugars,  spices,  g 
and  silver  ornaments,  pearls,  amber  beads,  small  Di 
looking-glasses,  German  goods,  platillas,  nankeens,  It 
ber,  See.  &c.  There  were  at  one  time  no  less  than  thl 
Christian  mercantile  houses  established  there:  the  did 
on  imports  are  ten  per  centum,  taken  in  kind  when 
goods  are  landed,  except  on  the  articles  of  iron,  steel, ; 
cotton,  on  which  the  duties  are  paid  in  cash  at  the  sai 
rate  : (the  government  allowing  the  importer  a short  crcl 
on  the  duties :)  this  is  the  duty  the  Sultan  is  entitled  to 
the  Koran  as  tithes,  or  tenths,  according  to  their  sac:  I 
code,  for  he  is  the  religious,  as  well  as  the  temporal  so  ■ 
reign.  The  duties  on  exports  are  regulated  by  an  imp 
rial  order,  and  are  not  steady. 

Trade  has  been  depressed  of  late  years  by  enorme 
duties  on  exports,  and  by  prohibitions,  so  much  so,  t) 
there  are  now  only  two  or  three  respectable  Christian  esta 
lishments  in  Mogadore,  and  those  who  conduct  them  i 
forced  to  put  up  with  frequent  insult  and  impositio 
they  do  no  business  to  a profit,  and  must,  if  it  does  r 
soon  alter  for  the  better,  quit  the  place  altogether.  It 
the  policy  of  the  present  emperor,  who  is  absolute, 
keep  the  people  as  poor  as  possible,  that  they  may  n 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA* 


321 


hve  it  in  their  power  to  rebel ; for  a rebellious  army  can- 
nt  be  supported  there  without  money,  or  kept  together 
vthout  an  immediate  hope  of  plunder,  and  the  Moorish 
gvernment  has  very  little  to  fear  from  a partial  and  ill  or- 
giized  insurrection,  the  chiefs  of  which  must  have 
nney  as  well  as  bravery,  and  display  good  conduct,  or 
.1  y will  soon  be  forsaken.  The  Sultan  commenced  his 
ftg'tem  by  shutting  the  ports  of  Santa  Cruz,  Saffy,  Rha- 
T,  Azamore,  Darlbeida,  &c.  and  ordering  the  foreign 
irrchants  residing  in  them  to  go  to  Mogadore  or  Swea- 
fipj,  where  he  said  they  should  be  protected.  Soon  af- 
-ewards  they  began  to  prohibit  the  introduction  of  some 
roucles,  then  the  exportation  of  many — such  as  wool, 
sat,  olive  oil,  &c.  and  laid  a duty  that  amounted  to  a 
hibition  on  several  other  articles  of  exportation  ; when 
people  murmured,  they  were  told  it  was  a sin  to  trade 
h men  who  did  not  follow  the  true  and  only  holy  reli- 
on earth  : that  their  prophet  had  strictly  forbidden 
uh  traffic  as  would  be  liable  to  corrupt  their  morals  and 
jejle  them  in  the  sight  of  God  : that  this  sin  had  been 
camitted,  and  that  God  was  now  taking  vengeance  of 
a people  by  sending  the  locusts  and  the  plague  that  fol- 
aed  them,  laying  waste  the  country,  and  unpeopling 
anany  fine  cities.  These  were  arguments  which  had 
rit  weight  with  the  superstitious  Moors,  aided  by  the 
l;;ue  which  at  that  time  raged  with  dreadful  fury  and 
vpt  oft'  three-fourths  of  the  inhabitants  of  Mogadore, 
|y,  and  several  other  towns  ; the  whole  garrison  of  el 
bbah,  on  Tensift  river,  &c.  &c.  Several  of  the  Chris- 
k merchants  died  also  of  the  plague,  and  many  of  the 
Bit  respectable  mercantile  Moors  : this  caused  an  almost 
ol  stagnation  of  business,  which  stagnation  has  been 
1 easing,  if  possible,  ever  since,  owing  to  these  causes 
n other  heavy  commercial  restraints  imposed  by  the 
>nent  emperor. 

ihould  any  of  the  maritime  nations  declare  war  against 
Moors,  Mogadore  might  be  easily  taken  and  de- 
byed,  though  the  place  could  not  be  retained  any  length 
«t:ime  : a few  sloops  of  war  of  a light  draught  of  water 
n;ht  enter  the  harbour  and  sail  down  near  the  south  end 
■1  the  island,  where  they  might  land  troops  and  take  nog- 

41 


h 


322 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


session  of  it,  which  being  high,  commands  the  tow ; 
here  they  might  construct  batteries  and  beat  down  ; 
walls  at  their  leisure.  The  country  near  it  is  covered  w| 
nothing  but  drifts  of  sand  for  a distance  beyond  canul 
shot.  The  Moors  are  very  awkward  gunners,  though; 
brave  as  men  can  be,  believing  that  if  they  venture  ev ; 
up  to  the  very  mouth'  of  a cannon,  they  cannot  die  < « 
moment  before  the  time  appointed  by  fate,  nor  in  j|j 
other  manner  than  that  which  was  predestined  by  the  .. 
mighty  before  they  were  created,  and  even  from  ■ 
foundation  of  the  world. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Of  the  Moors  and  Moorish  Arabs — Feast  of  expiatioi  ■ 

A Moorish  review  and  sham-fight — Horsemanship- 1 

the  Arabian  horse  and  his  furniture. 

. 

The-  Moors  are  a stout  athletic  race  of  men,  and  : 
generally  of  about  five  feet  ten  inches  in  height.  T| 
sprung  from  the  Bereberies,  or  old  inhabitants  of  i 
north  and  western  parts  of  northern  Africa,  together  wt 
the  descendants  of  the  Carthagenians,  and  various  Gr<; 
and  Roman  colonies  on  those  coasts,  conquered  by;  j 
commixed  with  the  Arabs  or  Saracens  who  passed  : 
isthmus  of  Suez,  and  subjugated  the  north  of  Aft) 
under  the  caliphs  of  the  pretended  prophet  Mohamm , 
Fez  is  at  present  the  great  capital  of  the  empire  and  ell 
residence  of  the  emperor,  who  is  styled  by  the  Moors;; 
Arabs  el  Sultan , (the  Sultan,)  or  as  they  pronounce 
Sooltan.  Suse  has  become  independent  of  the  Moo 
The  Moors  are  all  strict  followers  of  the  Mohammed 
doctrine,  and  firm  predestinarians.  I call  the  docti< 
Mohammedan  instead  of  Mahometan , because  the  na< 
of  their  prophet  is  pronounced,  both  by  the  Moors  d 
Arabs,  Mohammed , and  both  of  them  pronounce  tl  J 
letters  very  distinctly,  and  with  their  mouths  open  like  < 
Spaniards,  giving  to  every  letter  its  full  sound  ; for  thoif 
they  write  with  characters,  and  do  not  know  how  to  fed 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


323 


a Ionian  letter  with  a pen,  yet  a person  understanding 
I ters,  who  hears  them  speak,  would  say  they  were  per- 
fidy familiar  with  the  Roman  alphabet,  and  laid  more 
eiphasis  and  stress  on  the  letters,  by  means  of  which 
thy  speak  their  language  better  than  any  other  people  on 
e th. 

The  Moors,  in  general,  do  not  learn  to  read  and  write, 
bt  their  Talbs  are  learned  men,  who  take  great  pains  co 
bcomc  acquainted  with  the  principles  of  their  own  and 
0(p?  ancient  Arabic  language,  and  with  the  laws  of  the 
Bran,  which  is  held  by  them  to  be  a sacred  book,  and 
t(  contain  nothing  but  divine  revelation.  The  Talbs 
:nsact  all  the  business  that  requires  writing,  and  serve 
aprnately  as  scriveners,  lawyers,  and  priests.  The 
jN^ors  use  no  bells  for  their  places  of  worship,  but  in 
:h  towns  and  cities,  their  religious  houses  have  high 
p carets  or  steeples,  with  fiat  tops  and  a kind  of  balus- 
iirde  round  them  : to  the  tops  of  these  the  Talbs  ascend 
;c  call  the  people  at  stated  times  to  prayers,  and  as  the 
sieples  are  very  high,  and  the  Talbs  are  accustomed  to 
oil  aloud,  they  are  heard  at  a great  distance,  particularly 
wen  all  is  still  in  the  city.  Their  times  of  prayer  are 
bore  daylight  in  the  morning,  at  about  mid-day,  about 
th  middle  of  the  afternoon,  at  sunset,  and  again  before 
tj):y  retire  to  rest,  about  8 or  9 o’clook  in  the  evening, 
lie  Talbs , who  are  on  the  steeples  before  daylight  in  the 
aiming,  commence  by  calling  all  the  faithful  to  prayers  : 
tkir  voices  sound  most  harmoniously,  and  thrill  through 
ti;  air  in  a singular  manner.  I was  always  awakened  by 
t m myself  while  I staid  at  Mogadore,  and  often  went 
t<  the  window  to  hear  them  ; their  call  reminded  me  of 
ry  duty  also.  After  they  summoned  all  the  faithful  to 
lend  prayers,  they  either  rehearsed  particular  passages 
fun  the  Bible  or  Koran,  or  sang  some  sacred  poetry 
vth  a loud  and  piercing,  but  at  the  same  time  a very 
ldodious  and  pleasing  tone  of  voice.  The  Moors  who 
lie  near  the  places  of  worship  go  in,  join  with  the  Talbs, 
Ed  pray  together  ; but  by  far  the  greatest  number  per- 
I'm  their  devotions  in  their  own  rooms.  The  Talbs,  I 
informed,  perform  their  religious  duties,  which  are 
try  fatiguing,  merely  from  motives  of  piety — they  do 


324 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


not  receive  the  smallest  remuneration  either  from  l| 
prince,  or  people,  in  any  shape  or  way  whatever,  i 
worship  by  turning  their  faces  to  the  east,  and  bow  th- 
heads  in  the  dust  like  the  wandering  Arabs  : they  ws  i 
their  bodies  all  over  with  water  before  prayers,  as  well ; 
their  hands  and  faces,  for  which  purposes,  within  the  w; 
of  their  mosques  or  churches,  they  have  walls  or  foi 
tains  of  water,  and  large  stone  basins  in  which  to  bat 
When  they  appear  before  God  (as  they  call  it)  in  th 
places  of  worship,  they  divest  themselves  of  all  superf 
ous  ornaments  and  clothing,  and  even  of  their  breecht 
after  purifying  with  water,  they  wrap  themselves  decen 
up  in  their  haick  or  blanket  only,  and  go  through  th 
ceremonies  with  signs  of  the  most  profound  devotion, 
a Christian  enters  a Mohammedan  place  of  worship, 
must  either  change  his  religion,  by  having  his  head  shav 
undergoing  the  operation  of  circumcision,  and  confessf 
there  is  but  one  God,  and  that  Mohammed  is  his  h 
prophet,  &c.  or  suffer  instant  death — but  I have  ventur 
to  look  into  them  from  the  street.  The  court  leading! 
the  mosque  was  paved  with  tiles,  and  kept  very  cle 
with  stone  basins  filled  with  pure  water  on  each  side  p 
the  purposes  of  purification  ; though  I durst  not  appro;  \ 
so  near  as  to  see  in  what  manner  the  interior  part  was  • 
ranged,  but  I was  informed  they  were  entirely  free  fro 
ornaments.  The  women  are  not  generally  permitted  i 
enter  their  houses  of  religious  worship,  nor  even  to  ; 
pear  in  the  streets,  unless  they  are  completely  covered 
their  clothing,  which  going  over  their  heads,  is  held  i 
such  a manner  by  their  hands  on  the  inside,  as  only 
permit  them  to  peep  out  with  one  eye,  to  discover  a 
pick  their  way  ; so  that  no  Moor  or  Christian  can  : 
their  faces.  In  the  streets,  they  are  very  seldom  seen,  a 
are  so  extremely  fleshy,  that  they  waddle,  rather  than  w 
along,  like  fat  and  clumsy  ducks.  No  Moor  will  marr 
wife  until  she  is  well  fatted  by  her  father  ; and  if  it  is  1 1 
in  the  husband’s  power  afterwards  to  keep  her  in  the  sa : 
good  case  and  condition,  or  rather,  to  improve  upon 
he  is  dissatisfied,  and  endeavours  to  get  clear  of  her,  whi 
he  very  often  effects,  for  he  will  not  keep  a wife  uni 
she  is  very  fleshy,  or  bed  with  what  he  calls  “ a de^' 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


325 


irfeton.”  The  women  visit  each  other,  and  walk  to- 
2. her  on  the  tops  of  their  houses,  but  even  the  husband 
: mot  enter  the  room  they  are  in  when  uncovered,  or  get 
right  of  his  neighbour’s  wife  or  daughter,  being  strictly 
(bidden  by  his  religion  to  look  on  any  other  woman  than 
a own  wife  or  wives  : — thus  the  Moors,  when  they  re- 
- ve  company,  sit  down  with  them  on  the  ground  outside 
oi  their  houses,  where  they  converse  together;  but  not- 
tvhstanding  all  these  precautions,  as  the  women  are  very 
vorous,  they  manage  to  introduce  their  gallants  by 
mans  of  the  female  covering,  and  the  privilege  they  en= 
ju  of  visiting  each  other,  and  get  their  lovers  off  by  the 
sne  means  undiscovered. 

The  Moors  go  off  in  large  numbers  every  year,  form- 
ig  a great  caravan,  on  a pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  and  return 
ii  three  or  four  years ; every  Moslemin  being  by  law 
diged  to  visit  the  tomb  of  his  prophet  once  in  his  life- 
ale,  if  he  can  afford  to  pay  the  expenses  of  his  journey, 
he  men  who  have  been  to  Mecca  and  returned,  are  dig- 
raied  by  the  name  of  el  ajjh,  (or  the  pilgrim,)  and  the 
ramen  who  go  and  return,  (for  there  are  a few  who  ven- 
tre,) are  allowed  the  privilege  of  wearing  the  haick,  or 
rim’s  blanket ; of  walking  the  streets  uncovered,  like 
■fen,  and  of  conversing  with  them  promiscuously,  as  they 
ray  deem  fit,  being  considered  holy  women,  and  as  pos- 
sising  souls  by  special  grace  and  favour.  Every  Moor 
\io  is  born  an  idiot,  or  becomes  delirious,  is  considered 
.saint,  and  is  treated  with  the  greatest  attention  and  re- 
-ect  by  every  one  ; is  clothed,  and  fed,  and  taken  the 
•eatest  care  of  by  the  whole  community;  and,  do  what 
!■  will,  he  cannot  commit  a crime  in  the  eye  of  their  law. 
Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Mogaaore,  about  the  15th  of 
ovember,  1815,  the  feast  of  expiation  was  celebrated  by 
e Moors,  at  which  every  Mohammedan  is  by  law  obliged 
kill  a sheep,  if  it  is  possible  for  him  to  procure  one  ; 
not,  each  kills  such  other  animal  as  he  can  obtain  : the 
ch  (if  liberal)  kill  a number  proportioned  to  their  wealth 
id  inclination,  and  distribute  them  amongst  their  rela- 
ons,  or  the  poor  who  have  none  to  kill.  Rais  bel  Cos- 
m (i.  e.  Captain  bel  Cossim)  killed  seven  sheep  : they 
ad  been  bought  long  before,  and  were  well  fatted  for  the 


326 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


purpose.  The  first  day  of  the  feast  was  spent  in  visitii  i 
and  in  giving  and  receiving  presents  or  gifts  ; and  the  . 
cond  in  military  parade.  On  the  morning  of  that  day.  ' 
accompanied  Mr.  Willshire  to  the  top  of  a house,  ft 
merly  occupied  by  a Mr.  Chiappi,  deceased,  who  wast  ,: 
Portuguese  Consul  at  Mogadore  for  many  years:  till 
house  was,  before  it  went  to  decay,  the  largest  and  nr 
elegant  in  that  city  ; it  stood  near,  and  overlooked  If 
eastern  wall.  From  that  place,  we  saw  from  thirteen 
fifteen  hundred  Arabian  horses,  fleet  as  the  wind,  and  f 
of  fire,  mounted  by  Moors  and  Arabs,  who  sat  on  stro 
Moorish  saddles  that  came  up  high  before  and  behii 
covered  with  rich  quilted  scarlet  broadcloth.  They  \vi| 
paraded  between  the  outer  and  main  walls  of  the  city  : 
the  horsemen  were  dressed  with  red  caftans  or  vests,  i 
generally  worn  by  them,  except  on  great  occasions  : tin 
were  covered  with  worsted  haicks,  wove  transparent  li 
bunting  for  ships’  flags  : each  rider  was  armed  with  a lo 
Moorish  musket,  and  had  a knife  or  scimitar  hangi 
loosely  by  his  side  : they  wore  on  their  heads  either  whj 
turbans,  twisted  and  wound  many  times  around,  or  a i 
cap,  in  token  of  their  being  regular  imperial  soldiers,  I 
else  a fold  of  their  haick  : their  bridle- bits  were  the  nv 
powerful  of  the  Arabian  kind.  'Fhe  horses  were  all  stuc 
and  wore  their  whole  natural  quantity  of  main  and  t 
unmijtilated  in  any  part,  and  consequently  retained 
their  natural  fire,  beauty,  strength,  and  pride  : each  hor 
was  furnished  with  a head-piece,  resembling  the  stall  of 
bridle  at  top,  and  a halter  below — this  stall  or  head-piec 
was  made  of  the  richest  scarlet  cord  and  velvet,  with  frins 
hanging  down  over,  and  nearly  covering  his  eyes,  and 
large  pendulous  pad  of  scarlet  velvet  cloth  under  cat 
car  : the  neck  of  each  was  adorned  with  a very  elegai 
scarlet  cord,  having  a handsome  knob  and  tassal  unde 
neath  : these  trappings  were  solely  for  ornament,  and  n< 
for  use,  and  put  on  before  the  bridle.  Each  had  beside; 
a small  red  cord  about  his  neck,  to  which  was  fastened 
number  of  little  bags,  made  of  fine  red  Morocco  leather- 
these  bags,  I learned  on  inquiry,  were  stuffed  with  scrap 
of  paper,  covered  with  Arabic  writing,  furnished  to  th 
owner  of  the  horse  by  jugglers ; and,  as  they  pretenc 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


327 


s;ve  as  a charm  to  ward  off  the  effects  of  te  evil  eyes,” 
c witchcraft,  in  which  they  all  believe  : the  Moors  and 
,/rabs  are  so  firmly  attached  to  this  superstitious  opinion, 
tit  they  believe  both  themselves  and  their  horses  are  in 
eminent  danger  without  this  favourite  charm. 

The  Moorish  and  Arabian  saddle,  which  I consider  to 
i the  very  best  that  can  be  invented  by  man  to  keep  the 
Her  steady  in  his  seat,  is  fastened  on  by  a strong  girth 
ider  the  horse’s  belly,  and  by  one  round  his  breast,  but 
jthout  any  crupper:  the  stirrups  are  made  of  broad 
?ces  of  sheet  iron  or  brass,  and  for  the  most  part  plated 
vth  silver— the  bottom  of  them  is  as  long  as  a man’s  foot, 


' j.-a 
i > <■ 


that 


he  can  shift  the  position  of  his  feet  in  them  at 
asure  : they  are  kept  exceedingly  bright,  and  are  taken 
it  short  and  tied  to  the  saddle  by  braided  leather  thongs, 
s that  in  order  to  support  himself  firmly  in  his  saddle,  the 
tier  has  only  to  press  his  feet  to  the  horse’s  sides,  near 
h flanks,  his  knees  on  the  lower  part  of  the  saddle  ; thus 
listing  at  five  points  at  one  and  the  same  time.  The  bri- 
<je  is  of  that  kind  which  will  either  stop  the  fiercest  horse 
i an  instant,  or  snap  off'  his  lower  jaw — so  that  the  rider 
Is  his  horse  under  the  most  perfect  command  possible, 
his  body  of  horsemen,  thus  mounted  and  equipped, 
Here  reviewed  by  the  Bashaw  and  Alcayd,  or  military  and 
wil  governors.  There  were  also  five  or  six  thousand  foot 
sldiers  assembled  for  the  same  purpose : these  were 
cessed  in  haicks  and  red  caps,  and  armed  with  muskets 
ad  daggers.  After  the  review,  the  exercises  began  by  a 
scharge  of  twenty-four  pieces  of  cannon,  mounted  on 
e different  batteries  about  the  city,  and  then  followed  a 
ind  of  sham  fight,  which  was  begun  near  the  northern 
ate,  between  two  bodies  of  infantry  : they  marched  for- 
ard  to  the  attack,  and  each  poured  in  an  irregular  fire, 
hich  was  supported  and  kept  up  in  almost  one  continual 
laze  by  successive  advancing  lines,  until  it  seemed  ne- 
essary  to  bring  forward  the  heavy  cavalry,  in  order  to 
rrest  the  progress  of  a solid  column  of  men,  that  kept 
lowly  and  constantly  advancing  upon  the  opposing  troops, 
he  expected  signal  was  at  length  given  : the  whole  of 
ie  cavalry  was  instantly  in  motion  : it  advanced  in  squad- 
°n.s  of  about  one  hundred,  in  close  order,  l and  at  ful? 


328  CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 

speed,  and  seemed  to  fly  like  the  wind : the  distance  j 
tween  the  opposing  forces  was  near  one  fourth  of  a mi  • 
the  horsemen  shouting  loudly,  “ hah- hah  ! hah- hah 1 
raised  themselves  on  their  stirrups,  took  a deliberate  rj 
ith  their  long  muskets,  when  within  five  yards  of  ;l 
nemy’s  lines,  and  poured  in  their  fire  while  going  at  tip 
■;reatest  speed.  I expected  they  would  inevitably  clash  i 
nongst  the  infantry,  and  trample  many  of  them  to  deat 
ut  the  moment  the  men  had  fired,  they  brought  th 
orses  down  upon  their  haunches,  and  stopping  th< 
short,  reined  them  instantly  round,  to  make  room  fort 
next  approaching  squadron,  while  the  horses  of  the  fi 
squadron  walked  steadily  and  leisurely  back,  giving  tii 
for  the  riders  to  re-load  their  muskets  at  their  ease  : tl 
furiously  attacked  by  numerous  squadrons,  in  quick  si 
cession,  and  so  closely,  the  infantry  were  soon  brok 
and  dispersed,  by  which  means  the  cavalry  remained  a 
parent  masters  of  the  field. 

Nothing  of  the  kind  could  exceed  the  ardour,  activi 
and  intelligence,  displayed  by  those  noble  looking  a 
well  trained  horses  ; they  seemed  almost  to  fly  to  the  i 
tack,  and  looked  as  if  determined  to  rush  through  t 
opposing  host,  and  trample  it  to  atoms  ; but  when  tl 
riders  had  fired  their  muskets,  and  the  horses  were  turni 
about  the  other  way,  they  were  perfectly  calm  in  an  i 
stant,  and  walked  on  leisurely  until  they  were  again  faci( 
round  towards  the  enemy  ; then  their  eyes  seemed  I 
kindle  with  fire ; they  pawed  up  the  dust,  which  the 
seemed  to  snuff  up  into  their  wide- stretched  nostrils,  ar 
into  which  one  might  see,  as  they  then  appeared,  near! 
up  to  their  eyes  : they  snorted  and  pranced  about  in  sue 
a manner,  that  nothing  short  of  the  heavy  and  true  Ar; 
bian  bridle  could  have  been  capable  of  checking  or  keep 
ing  them  in  subjection,  and  nothing  short  of  the  Mooris 
or  Arabian  saddle,  could  have  prevented  their  riders  frorj 
being  dashed  against  the  ground.  The  long  spurs  of  th 
horsemen  had  gored  their  flanks,  so  as  to  make  the  bioo 
stream  out,  which,  uniting  with  their  sweat,  formed  [ 
kind  of  streaked  froth,  that  nearly  covering  their  sides 
dropped  fast  upon  the  ground,  whilst  the  severe  workin; 
of  the  bit  upon  their  mouths,  caused  them  to  bleed  pro 


OBSERVATION'S  ON  AFRICA. 


529 


,ely.  The  dazzling  of  their  stirrups  and  arms  in  the 
so,  the  rattling  of  their  spurs  against  their  stirrups,  and 
1 clashing  of  their  arms  against  each  other ; the  beauti- 
:i  appearance  of  the  squadrons  of  horses  ; the  cracking 
m musketry,  and  continual  shouting  of  the  mock  com- 
jiants,  produced  an  effect  truly  imposing,  and  I was  of 
)tnion  that  no  lines  of  infantry,  of  equal  numbers,  how- 
»r  well  formed  and  commanded,  would  be  capable  of 
r hstanding  their  impetuous  and  repeated  shocks,  when 
t aally  attacked  : this  was  truly  a superb  school  foe 
icsemanship. 

>idi  Hamet,  my  old  master,  had  borrowed  and  mount- 
cMr.  Willshire’s  fine  horse,  and  seemed  to  be  in  all  his 
fry  while  exercising  him  like  the  others.  After  they 
E nearly  finished  the  sham- fight,  he,  together  with  a 
a:  of  Moors,  consisting  of  about  fifteen  or  twenty,  com- 
apced  their  last  career  towards  the  enemy  : they  had  a 
i rter  of  a mile  to  ride,  and  all  with  long  muskets  in 
fair  hands  : they  set  off  their  horses  at  full  speed,  in  a 
r when  on  their  seats ; then  turning  over,  they  placed 
Mr  heads  upon  their  saddles,  and  rode  with  their  feet  in 
bj  air,  and  their  backs  towards  the  horses’  heads,  for  a 
c siderable  part  of  the  distance ; then  regaining  their 
eh  by  a sudden  movement,  they  rose  in  their  stirrups, 
iid  off  their  pieces  close  to  the  wall,  reined  their  horses 
aund,  and  returned  again  to  their  post.  Many  of  these 
icses  were  extremely  fleet  and  beautiful,  and  seemed  as 
mch  to  exceed  in  spirit,  strength,  and  courage,  the  first - 
a:  race  horses  I had  ever  seen  in  Europe  or  America,  as 
hse  fine  animals  excel  the  common  plough  horse. 

The  Moors  soon  wear  their  horses  down  by  hard  ser- 
fs, and  then  put  them  into  mills  to  grind  their  grain,  as 
I re  is  scarcely  such  a thing  as  a wind  or  water-mill, 
verewith  to  grind  their  breadstuff,  to  be  found  in  the 
\)orish  empire.  The  mares  are  never  rode  or  worked, 
dl  are  kept  solely  for  the  purpose  of  breeding,  and  I 
c nd  that  what  I had  considered  as  an  exaggerated  co- 
unt of  the  good  qualities  attributed  to  the  Arabian 
ise,  fell  far  short  of  his  real  merits;  for  though  the 
nst  proud,  fierce,  and  fiery  of  the  horse  kind,  he  is,  at 
d same  time,  the  most  docile  of  those  noble  animals 

42 


330 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


The  true  Arabian  horse  is  about  fourteen  to  sixteen  hatj|; 
in  height ; his  body  is  long,  round,  and  slender ; 3 
limbs  small,  clean,  and  straight ; he  is  square-breas  1 
and  round- quartered  ; his  neck  well  set  and  slim,  wit  1 
beautiful  natural  curve  ; his  head  small,  with  a face  , 
dining  to  a curve,  from  the  top  of  the  head  to  the  n . 
trils,  with  eves  full,  bright,  quick,  and  intelligent — nujjr 
of  them  are  of  a beautiful  cream  colour,  and  frequen  • 
spotted  with  black,  and  vary  in  colour  from  a light  son  , 
through  all  the  shades  of  bay  and  chesnut,  to  the  deep; 
jet  black  : they  are  strong-jointed,  and  full  of  sinew  , 
naturally  docile,  and  very  active ; but  if  they  become  , 
the  least  vicious,  they  are  doomed  to  the  mill  for  the 
mainder  of  their  days.  It  was  with  much  regret  I lean . 
that  these  beautiful  and  serviceable  animals  could  not 
exported  from  either  the  Moorish  dominions,  or  any  ot 
of  the  Barbary  states,  without  a special  permission,  a, 
private  favour  from  the  reigning  prince,  which  is  vi 
seldom  granted,  and  only  on  particular  and  import ; 
occasions. 

The  Arabs  inhabiting  Morocco,  live  in  tents,  in  a wi 
dering  state;  for  the  true  Arabs  will  not  be  confined  wi 
in  walls,  and  are  a distinct  race  of  men  from  the  Moc. 
They  keep  large  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  camels,  she, 
goats,  and  asses,  making  use  of  the  milk  of  all  the 
males  for  butter  and  for  drink  : they  supply  the  cities  wli 
butter,  which  they  make  by  the  simple  process  of  putti; 
the  milk  into  a goat-skin,  the  hair  side  in,  hanging  it  > 
by  the  legs,  and  shaking  it  by  the  help  of  a rope,  ' 
which  it  is  fastened  : when  the  butter  is  made,  they  pa 
it,  hair  and  all,  into  earthen  jars  that  hold  from  two 
four  pounds  each,  and  in  that  state,  carry  it  to  marl 
without  salting,  selling  the  butter,  jar,  and  all,  for  am: 
trifle  : they  cultivate  nearly  all  the  plain  land  that  is  cur 
vated  in  the  empire  of  Morocco,  (as  the  Bereberies  till  t: 
hilly  country  and  sides  of  mountains,)  except  the  grouri 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  cities,  which  they  do  ill 
approach  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture,  those  being  cl 
tivated  and  dressed  by  the  Moors  and  their  slaves.  Th 
live  m families  or  sections  of  tribes,  and  pitch  their  ter 
in  companies  of  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  fi 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA, 


331 


1 nts,  each  tent  containing  one  family  : these  tents  when 
j tched,  are  called  a Douhar  ; they  eject  a chief  to  each 
f these  douhars,  whom  thpy  dignify  with  the  title  of 
Jcayd  or  Sheick,  for  the  time  being ; their  authority, 
liwever,  is  rather  of  an  advisory  than  mandatory  kind. 
}ear  seed  time,  they  remove  and  pitch  their  douhar  (or 
■ campment)  near  the  spot  they  mean  to  cultivate,  and 
jjough  and  sow  the  land  with  wheat,  barley,  corn,  or  peas  : 
fcey  fence  in  some  parcels  of  land  with  good  high  stone 
faces,  particularly  orchards  of  fig-trees,  but  for  the  most 
rrt  they  are  entirely  open  : the  sowing  being  finished, 
y remove  again,  for  the  sake  of  pasture,  to  other  parts 
: the  same  province,  in  which  they  continue  to  reside, 
they  cannot  move  out  of  a province  without  leave  be- 
first  obtained  from  the  emperor  : thus  they  wander 
pm  place  to  place,  until  near  harvest  time,  when  they 
r:urn  and  gather  in  their  crops  which  they  have  sowed, 
eld  which  are  considered  safe  from  the  flocks,  herds,  and 
finds  of  other  tribes,  by  common  consent  or  interest,  as 
a rove  about  in  a similar  way,  having  no  fixed  habita- 
t»ns  ; yet  sometimes  one  tribe  sows,  and  another  reaps 
te  fruit  of  its  labour,  but  that  is  only  done  by  force  of 
ams. 

The  Moorish  Arabs  are  rather  below  the  middle  stature ; 
c a dark  complexion,  resembling  that  between  the  mu- 
1 to  and  a white  man,  with  long  black  hair  and  black 
ces  : they  are  strong  and  healthy  : they  wear  round  their 
belies  a woollen  haick,  which  does  not  cover  their  heads, 
i d go  without  any  other  clothing  : their  legs  and  feet  are 
fnerally  bare;  their  beards  long;  their  cheek-bones 
lgh  ; their  noses  regularly  hooked  ; their  lips  thin  ; and 
ley  are  as  hardy  a race  of  men  as  exists  ; perhaps,  bl- 
eed, with  the  exception  of  the  wandering  Arabs.  The 
■omen  wear  a kind  of  a garment  made  of  a haick,  through 
’hich  they  thrust  their  arms  to  keep  it  up— -it  hangs  down 
' their  knees,  and  nearly  covers  their  breasts  ; they  have 
fold  behind,  like  those  living  on  the  desert,  in  which 
ey  carry  their  young  children  ; they  all  stoop  forward 
1 ry  much  ; are  treated  by  their  husbands  as  mere  neces- 
:ry  slaves  ; are  obliged  to  milk  the  cows,  camels,  mares, 
aats,  sheep,  and  asses ; make  the  butter,  and  spin  and 


332  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 

weave  the  tent- cloth  and  clothing  by  hand  for  themself 
and  families.  They  both  spin  and  weave  in  the  sai  : 
manner  as  the  Arab  women  of  the  desert,  and  bring  [ 
the  water  they  use  in  large  pitchers  on  their  shoulders,  | 
the  distance  be  ever  so  great : they  take  care  of,  and  to ; 
to  draw  the  water  for  the  flocks  of  sheep,  and  goats,  a 
herds  of  cattle ; but  the  men  manage  the  camels  a 
horses.  They  grind  their  wheat  and  barley  in  their  har 
mills,  which  are  the  same  as  on  the  desert  and  in  Suse, 
already  described,  and  they  make  cakes,  which  they  ro 
in  the  fire.  The  women  are,  in  fact,  complete  slave 
they  are  obliged  to  strike  their  tents  when  they  remo 
and  pack  them  on  camels,  with  all  the  other  stuff  that 
possessed  by  the  family — -to  pitch  the  tent  again,  and  pa  i 
away  the  stuff,  &c.  &c.  while  the  men  take  upon  the 
selves  to  lord  it  over  them,  and  drive  them  about  at  pie 
lire,  only  looking  after  the  flocks  and  herds,  and  puni: 
ing  the  women  and  girls,  if  any  are  lost : the  men  a 
plough  and  sow  the  land,  and  attend  to  the  reaping  a 
threshing  out  the  corn.  The  sickle  they  reap  with  is  r 
thing  more  than  a knife  with  a blade  of  about  a foot  loi 
with  the  point  bent  inwards  : the  principal  part  of  the 
bour  in  this  business,  they  also  oblige  the  women  to  p> 
form. 

Their  law  permits  them  to  have  seven  wives,  but  it 
recommended  to  them  by  their  prophet  to  have  only  01 
in  order  to  prevent  contention  in  the  family.  When  th 
increase,  however,  in  wealth  or  substance,  they  need  me 
Iielp,  and  instead  of  hiring  or  buying  slaves,  they  ta 
more  wives  ; and  on  this  economical  and  agreeable  pis 
they  make  out  to  manage  the  affairs  of  their  househol 
They  are  the  same  race  of  people  in  appearance  and  ma 
Tiers,  as  the  Arabs  of  the  desert,  and  have  bartered  tto 
liberty  for  the  comforts  afforded  by  a country  susceptib 
of  cultivation.  The  Arabs  are  said  to  have  continue 
migrating  gradually  from  the  deserts  and  other  parts 
Arabia  into  Africa,  ever  since  the  irruptions  of  the  fit 
Saracens,  by  joining  themselves  in  small  numbers  to  t! 
returning  caravans  which  go  yearly  from  Morocco,  A 
giers,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  &c.  on  a pilgrimage  to  visit  tl 
tomb  of  their  prophet  at  Mecca.  These  caravans  can 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA 


a?e  quantities  of  goods  with  them,  and  make  a trading 
r>  of  it,  as  well  as  a religious  duty  ; and  many  of  the 
jgrims  return  home  very  rich  for  Moors, 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

The  present  Arabs  and  ancient  Jews  compared. 


Soon  after  I was  seized  on  as  a slave  by  the  wander- 
r Arabs  of  the  great  Western  Desert,  I was  struck  with 
h simplicity  of  their  lives  and  manners,  and  contrasted 
i circumstances  of  their  keeping  camels,  living  in  tents, 
ill  wandering  about  from  day  to  day,  with  the  simplicity 
>ithe  lives  of  the  old  Jewish  patriarchs,  who  also  lived 
n:ents,  had  camels,  and  wandered  about  from  place  to 
ilce  ; possessed  men-servants  and  maid-servants — that  is, 
iy  owned  slaves ; but  as  they  for  the  most  part  lived  in 
entries  where  the  soil  was  capable  of  culture,  they  also 
Sjl  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  herds  of  cattle,  and 
lies  ; yet  the  patriarchs  lived  in  a thirsty  land  for  a part 
a the  time,  and  were  often  in  want  of  water,  as  well  as 
a bread.  My  mind  was  also  strongly  impressed  with 
t|  similarity  between  the  patriarchal  form  of  government, 
ad  that  prevailing  among  the  Arabs  at  the  present  day, 
vjiich  is,  in  the  strictest  sense  of  the  word,  paternal ; the 
filter  of  each  family  being  its  supreme  and  absolute  head  : 
t i wandering  Arabs  will  submit  to  no  other  control,  and 
tey  actually  reverence  their  fathers  and  the  old  men  of 
leir  tribe  next  to  the  Deity  himself,  and  pay,  without 
fe  least  apparent  compulsion,  the  most  cheerful  and 
lplicit  obedience  to  their  orders  and  wishes.  When  I 
:came  more  acquainted  with  the  Arabs,  I observed  that 
e manner  of  salutation  between  strangers  was  very  much 
ee  that  of  the  Jewish  fathers,  as  recorded  in  Holy  Writ, 
?.d  which  also  prevailed  among  the  inhabitants  of  the 
juntry  where  they  sojourned.  When  a stranger  approach- 
1 an  Arab’s  tent,  he  first  finds  out  which  way  it  is  pitch- 
1 ; then,  going  round  until  he  gets  directly  in  front,  he 
raws  near  slowly,  until  within  about  one  hundred  yards, 


334 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


and  stops,  but  always  with  his  weapon  in  his  hand,  rdj 
for  defence,  and  then  turns  his  back  towards  the  te 
when  he  is  perceived  by  those  in  and  about  the  tent,  (v  { 
are  always  upon  the  look-out,)  and  they  come  forth,  | 
bows  himself  nearly  to  the  earth  twice,  and  worship 
upon  which  one  from  the  tent  takes  some  water  in  a bo 
and  advances  towards  him;  this  is  done  by  the  head) 
the  family,  if  he  be  at  home,  or  by  his  eldest  son  : if  nt  j 
of  the  males  are  present,  one  of  the  women  goes  forw  1 
with  her  bowl  of  water,  or  something  else,  either  to  j; 
or  drink,  if  they  have  any ; if  not,  they  take  a skin, ; 
roll  of  tent-cloth,  to  make  a shelter  with  for  the  strang 
As  they  come  within  a few  yards  of  the  stranger,  tl 
ask,  “ Is  it  peace  ?”  and  being  answered  in  the  affirr . 
tive,  they  mutually  say,  “ Peace  be  with  you,  with  yif 
father’s  house,  your  family,  and  all  you  possess;”  tit 
touching  the  fingers  of  the  right  hands  together,  they  sn 
them,  and  carrying  them  to  their  lips,  kiss  them,  win 
is  the  same  with  them  as  to  kiss  each  other’s  hand  ; i\ 
thence,  I presume,  is  derived  the  compliment  now 
such  general  use  among  the  polite  Spaniards,  which  is 
say,  in  saluting  a gentleman,  “ Beso  de  usted  las  mane ' 
- — I kiss  your  hands  ; if  a lady,  “ I kiss  your  feet.” 
The  Arab  manner  of  worshipping  the  Deity,  as  I hr 
already  described,  is  by  bowing  themselves  to  the  ear , 
and  touching  their  faces  to  the  ground  : after  bowing 
the  ground  six  times,  they  say,  “ God  is  great  and  goc 
and  Mohammed  is  his  holy  prophet:”  this  is  their  cc 
fession  of  faith.  After  that,  they  offer  up  their  petitioi 
that  God  will  keep  them  under  his  special  protectio; 
that  he  will  direct  them  in  the  right  way;  that  he  will  lc 
them  to  fountains  or  wells  of  living  water ; that  God  w 
scatter  their  enemies,  and  deliver  them  from  all  those  wl 
lie  in  wait  to  do  them  mischief ; that  he  will  prosper  th< 
journies,  and  enrich  them  with  the  spoil  qf  their  enemic 
&c.  and  they  afterwards  recite  some  poetry,  which  th< 
call  sacred.  Since  my  being  redeemed,  I have  been  to 
that  the  form  of  worship  now  in  practice  among  tho; 
people,  was  taught  them  by  Mohammed  ; but  as  the; 
forms  do  not  differ  materially  from  the  forms  of  worsh 
practised  by  Abraham  and  the  other  old  patriarchs,  ar 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


335 


lise  of  the  people  among  whom  they  dwelt  in  the  land 
y Canaan  and  elsewhere,  I am  inclined  to  believe  that 
1 artful  prophet  did  not  change  their  ancient  mode  of 
vrshipping  the  Deity,  but  on  the  contrary,  sanctioned 
iir  long  established  custom,  which  had  continued  among 
it  singular  race  of  men  ever  since  the  time  of  Abraham; 
ul  that  the  only  innovations  or  alterations  he  ventured  to 
nke  in  that  respect,  were  in  appointing  set  times  lor  per- 
cjining  those  religious  duties  ; enjoining,  besides,  ire- 
pi'nt  purifications,  by  washing  themselves  with  water, 
il  thus  inculcating  cleanliness,  so  indispensably  neces- 
izy  to  preserve  health  in  hot  countries,  as  a religious 

\ ft- 

When  travelling  along  the  great  desert,  near  its  north- 
i border,  we  fell  in  with  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats, 
■vich  were  kept  by  the  women  and  children,  who  were 
tb  obliged  to  water  them  ; and  when,  after  our  arrival  in 
^ se,  while  we  were  travelling  on  its  immense  plain,  and 
i:ny  small  cities  or  towns  were  in  sight  at  the  same  time 
Mievery  side,  with  high  stone  walls,  gates,  and  bars,  and 
| earned  that  each  one  was  independent,  and  under  the 
sdnmand  or  government  of  its  own  chief,  who  generally 
.tied  himself  a prince ; and  when  I heard  the  story  of 
if  destruction  of  JFidnah,  and  other  devastations  com- 
atted by  the  wandering  Arabs  in  their  vicinity,  I could 
a:  avoid  figuring  to  myself,  and  observing  to  my  corn- 
ppions  at  the  same  time,  that  the  country  of  Suse  must 
mv  resemble  in  appearance  the  land  of  Canaan  in  the 
tihe  of  Joshua,  both  in  regard  to  its  numerous  little  wall- 
e cities  ; its  fertile  soil ; and  in  many  other  respects  ; and 
Ut  the  frequent  irruptions  of  the  hordes  of  wild  Arabs 
l>m  the  desert,  destroying  and  laying  waste  the  country, 
cd  the  cities  they  are  able  to  overpower,  bore  a strong 
rsemblance  to  the  conduct  of  the  ancient  Israelites,  when 
11  from  the  deserts  of  Arabia  into  the  cultivated  country 
i:ar  them  ; with  this  difference,  however,  that  the  Israel- 
is were  then  particularly  guided,  supported,  and  protect- 
<•1  by  Divine  power,  and  consequently  were  enabled  to 
;t  in  unison,  and  with  decisive  effect  against  those  small, 
eble,  and  ill- constructed  cities. 

In  travelling  from  Mogadore  to  Tangier,  in  the  empire 


CAPTAIN  RILEV’S  NARRATIVE, 


n n 

ajb 

of  Morocco,  and  coming  to  those  parts  of  the  provim  |; 
of  Abdah  and  Duquella,  which  are  entirely  peopled  • 
Arabs  living  in  tents,  and  in  a primitive  or  wandering  sta , 
(their  tents  being  formed  of  the  same  materials,  and  pit( , 
ed  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the  Arabs  on  the  desei 
I observed  that  these  people  were  of  a much  lighter  co 
plexion  than  those  on  the  desert;  but  that  circumstam 
in  all  probability,  was  owing  to  the  climate’s  being  me 
temperate  ; to  their  being  less  exposed  to  the  rays  of  t j 
sun,  and  better  clothed  ; yet  their  features  were  nearly  t 
same,  and  those  of  both  bear  a strong  resemblance 
those  of  the  Barbary  Jews,  who  also  have  black  eyes  a 
Arab  noses,  lips,  hair,  and  stature,  and  whose  complei 
ion  is  but  a shade  or  two  lighter  than  that  of  the  Moori 
Arabs,  which  is  chiefly  occasioned  by  their  different  moc 
of  life,  the  Jews  all  living  in  cities,  and  the  Arabs  in  t 
fields  : the  Jews,  however,  are  stouter  men  than  the  Aral 
owing,  most  likely,  to  the  unrestrained  intercourse  1 
tween  the  lusty  Moors  and  Jewesses,  &c.  That  the 
Arabs  and  those  who  live  on  the  desert,  are  the  same  ra 
of  men,  I have  not  the  smallest  doubt : their  height,  shafll 
eyes,  noses,  and  other  features,  together  with  their  ci 
toms,  manners,  and  habits,  being  essentially  the  sarc 
Between  the  Barbary  Jews  and  the  present  Arabs,  there 
only  a slight  difference  in  their  religious  ceremonies  ai 
belief,  and  both  very  much  resemble  those  forms  whi< 
were  followed  by  the  old  Jewish  patriarchs,  and  their  f 
thers  and  brethren,  as  recorded  in  the  Book  of  Genesi 
There  is  one  more  singular  coincidence  between  the  cu 
toms  of  the  old  Israelites  and  present  Arabs,  whio 
though  seemingly  unimportant,  I shall,  nevertheless,  mej 
tion.  The  Arabs,  both  on  the  desert  and  in  Moroco 
when  they  have  occasion  to  go  abroad  from  their  tent,  i 
order  to  obey  one  of  tlje  most  pressing  calls  of  natun 
always  carry  a stick  or  paddle  with  them,  in  the  mamu 
and  for  the  same  purpose  as  is  mentioned  of  the  anciei 
Israelites  in  the  twenty-third  chapter  of  Deuteronomy,  th 
twelfth  and  thirteenth  verses.  The  men  always  .sit  clo£ 
to  the  ground  to  urinate,  and  compelled  us,  while  slave; 
to  do  the  same. 

In  journeying  through  the  province  of  Duquella, 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  AFRICA. 


337 


ej'ned  from  occular  demonstration  what  was  meant  when 
etain  personages  are  described  in  Holy  Writ  as  having 
abundance  of  flocks  and  herds,  &c.  We  stopped  and 
>i:hed  our  tent  one  night  within  a Douhar,  which  I found 
nthe  morning  to  consist  of  one  hundred  and  fifty - 
ojr  tents  : they  were  pitched  in  form  of  a hollow  square, 
n about  fifty  yards  apart,  occupying  a large  space  of 
rund,  and  all  of  them  facing  inwards : before  each  of 
hie  tents,  the  owner  had  made  his  beasts  lie  down  for 
v night.  I felt  a desire  to  know  the  number  of  animals 
all  man  possessed,  and  in  order  to  make  an  estimate  of 
i<i whole  with  correctness,  I stopped,  counted,  and  set 

0 n the  whole  number  that  lay  in  separate  flocks  before 
si  y of  the  tents  nearest  to  where  I was,  and  then  made 

1 average  of  their  numbers  for  each  tent,  which  were 
i teen  camels,  eleven  head  of  neat  cattle,  six  asses, 
t-five  sheep,  and  fifty-two  goats : the  whole  of  the 
ales  within  the  douhar,  I counted  separately  ; they 
minted  to  one  hundred  and  eighty-six.  I think  the 
xj;s  I counted  were  a fair  average,  of  the  whole,  and 
cmpute  them  accordingly  ; that  is,  two  thousand  nine 
anred  and  twenty-six  camels  ; one  hundred  and  eighty- 
xjhorse s ; eight  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy 
dp  ; eight  thousand  and  eight  goats ; and  nine  hun- 
e and  twenty  asses  -they  had  besides  a considerable 
i;  ber  of  dung-hill  fowls,  and  a great  plenty  of  dogs. . 
ao  counted  the  number  of  inhabitants  occupying  fifty 
n;,  which  averaged,  including  slaves  and  children,  nine 

tent,  or  one  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty-six 

1.  These  Arabs  lead  a pastoral  life,  and  though  the 
nunt  of  their  flocks,  at  first  sight,  appears  great,  yet 
hjn  it  is  taken  into  view  that  their  only  employment  is 
N eed  cattle,  in  which  consists  their  whole  riches  or 
eth,  and  their  daily  support,  the  number  will  not  be 
iridered  as  unreasonably  great.  This  douhar  was  said 
> ielong  to  the  Sheick  Mohammed  hen  Abdehla , a very 
cman,  (whom  I saw,)  and  to  consist  of  his  family  on- 

if  so,  this  Arab  must  have  been  very  rich  and  pow-*- 
t , even  like  Abraham  the  patriarch,  who  had  three 
Ailred  and  eighteen  servants  born  in  his  own  house, 

>i  to  go  forth  to  war,  (Genesis  xiv.  14,)  or  like  pious 

43 


338  CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 

Job,  who  was  pre-eminently  blessed  with  flocks  and  hei  5 
and  was  also,  most  probably,  an  Arab, 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

The  author  ships  his  companions  on  board  a vessel  1 
Gibraltar , and  sets  out  himself  to  travel  by  land  1 
Tangier — Villany  of  his  Jew  companion — Account  u 
great  Moorish  saint — Description  of  the  country - j 
the  town  of  el  Ksebbah  and  Stiff y. 

Having  recovered  .my  strength,  so  as  to  beablt 
undertake  a journey  by  land,  and  being  desirous  of  vi! 
ing  that  part  of  the  empire  of  Morocco  which  lies : 
tween  Mogadore  and  Tangier,  and  also  to  visit  the  An' 
lean  Consul  General  residing  at  that  place,  in  orde  < 
make  effectual  arrangements  for  the  redemption  of  1 
remainder  of  my  unfortunate  crew,  should  they  be  : 
alive,  I shipped  my  companions  on  board  a Gem 
schooner  that  navigated  under  the  English  flag,  bounn 
Gibraltar,  where  I intended  to  meet  them.  I drew  1" 
on  my  friend,  Mr.  Horatio  Sprague,  of  Gibraltar,  for  t 
amount  of  cash  actually  expended  by  Mr.  Willshir  1 
obtaining  our  redemption,  and  in  furnishing  us  tl 
clothing,  though  he  had  given,  both  to  me  and  my  m 
many  articles  of  his  own  clothing,  for  which  he  would ! 
receive  payment,  nor  would  he  accept  of  any  compel) 
tion  for  his  trouble,  for  our  board,  nor  for  the  extrao  i 
nary  expenses  incurred  in  consequence  of  his  exertii 
to  render  us  every  assistance,  as  well  as  every  service  1 
comfort  in  his  power,  during  the  whole  of  our  stay  \l 
him  for  about  two  months. 

Elio  Zagury,  the  Jew  whom  I have  before  mentiori 
was  also  going  to  set  out  for  Tangier  by  land,  and  as  . 
friend  did  not  wish  me  to  be  troubled  with  the  arran 
ments  for  provisions,  Sec.  on  the  road,  he  agreed  \ : 
Zagury,  for  him  to  furnish  me  with  every  thing  necesj  * 
during  the  journey,  except  a bed,  and  paid  him  the  amc: 
agreed  on  beforehand,  which  was  a handsome  sum. 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


339 


On  the  4th  day  of  January,  1816,  all  being  previously 
spared,  the  schooner  sailed  with  Mr.  Savage,  Burns, 
Cark,  and  Horace  on  board.  After  seeing  her  safe  out 
i the  harbour,  I went,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Wiltshire, 
sro  the  Jews’  town,  to  the  house  of  old  Zagury,  where 
Look  my  leave  of  the  Jew  priest  before  mentioned,  and 
w proceeded  without  the  northern  city  gate,  where  the 
hvs  are  permitted  to  mount  their  mules  or  asses.  I then 
e nd  that  the  mule  on  which  I was  to  travel,  was  already 
c ded  with  two  large  trunks,  one  mattress,  and  provis- 
os in  proportion,  and  was  told  by  Zagury  that  I must 
on  the  top  of  this  cargo,  and  ride  the  best  way  I 
; lid,  as  he  should  procure  no  other  mule  on  my  account. 
[ /as  not  at  all  pleased  at  this  plan,  but  my  friend  told  me 
it.vas  only  a Jew’s  trick,  and  such  an  one  as  every  man 
My  expect  to  be  served  who  has  any  dealings  with  those 
/lains  : he  then  ordered  his  own  mule  to  be  brought  for 
iv,  which  was  ready  saddled  in  the  gateway,  and  kept 
:lre,  I believe,  for  the  purpose,  anticipating  deceit  on 
:!•  part  of  the  Jew  ; though  in  this,"  as  in  every  other  in- 
stnee,  he  endeavoured  to  lighten  as  much  as  possible, 
th  weight  of  the  obligations  he  had  laid  me  under.  His 
aide  was  one  of  the  handsomest  and  finest  I had  ever 
sen  : to  have  refused  riding  it  at  that  time,  would  have 
ten  to  doubt  his  friendship  ; so  I mounted  the  mule,  and 
paceeded  northward  in  company  with  Mr.  Willshire  and 
hj.  trusty  friend,  Rais  bel  Cossim,  on  horseback.  We 
rjie  on,  conversing  together,  for  about  two  hours,  along 
tv  sand  beach,  when  vye  stopped  a few  moments,  and 
tik  some  refreshments.  It  was  there  I took  my  leave  of 
ry  benefactor.  This  painful  parting  I shall  not  attempt 
t describe  : a last  look  was  at  length  taken,  and  a final 
i-ieu  uttered,  when  he  rode  back  towards  the  city,  and  I 
loceeded  on  my  journey.  We  went  silently  along,  and 
lounted  up  the  bank.  Our  company  consisted  of  young 
. igury;  an  old  Jew  named  David;  a' Jew  servant  ; two 
doors,  who  were  the  muleteers,  and  an  imperial  soldier 
;r  our  guide,  well  mounted  on  a high-spirited  horse,  and 
illy  armed:  he  was  a fine-looking  fellow,  though  half 
■gro,  and  possessed  all  that  suavity  of  manners  so  con- 
acuous  in  a first-rate  Moor  or  Arab.  » From  these  sqL 


340 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


diers  the  emperor  chooses  his  Alcayds  and  officers  tor  j 
army  ; if  they  only  possess  talents  and  bravery,  their  cl 
our  is  disregarded.  The  Jews  called  him  Alcayd,  ,/ 
way  of  making  themselves  appear  more  respectable,  i 1 
me  they  styled  el  Tibib  del  Sultan,  or  the  Sultan’s  doct 

We  proceeded  on  till  near  dark  through  a dreary  cor. 
try,  when  we  came  to  the  Omlays,  or  three  spring 
there  we  found  a number  of  travellers  watering  their  ca 
els,  mules,  and  asses.  Having  let  our  beasts  drink,  : 
turned  aside  a little  to  the  south,  in  a ploughed  fie 
near  a few  stone  houses,  and  pitched  for  the  night.  ^ : 
had  a bell  tent,  which  was  a very  good  one,  made  of  t . 
thicknesses  of  canvass ; it  was  large  enough  to  coot 
two  beds  spread  out,  and  very  tight,  and  left  plenty 
room  besides  for  our  other  things.  We  had  with  u t 
box  containing  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  &c.  coals  to  mak 
fire,  and  all  the  utensils  necessary  for  cooking  : so 
had  a cup  of  tea,  and  ate  some  coos-coo-soo  for  our  si 
per,  and  went  to  sleep  very  comfortably.  The  sold' 
and  the  muleteers  slept  outside  the  tent  on  the  groui 
wrapped  up  only  in  their  haicks  : this  is  the  const  ; 
practice  of  the  Moors  and  Arabs  when  travelling,  @| 
they  wonder  that  people  of  other  nations  do  not  pro 
that  method  to  any  other;  they  carry  this  custom  so  f 
that  many  of  the  male  inhabitants  of  the  cities  sleep 
the  tops  of  their  houses  (which  are  flat)  in  preference 
sleeping  on  their  mattresses  under  cover. 

At  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  5th,  all  our  co; 
pany  were  in  a bustle,  being  busily  engaged  in  striki 
our  tent,  and  loading  the  mules,  while  a cup  of  cof 
was  preparing,  and  some  eggs  boiling  for  our  breakfas 
and  we  set  off  on  our  journey  long  before  sunrise.  V 
travelled  along  this  day  on  uneven  ground,  throw 
groves  of  arga  trees,  which  grew  thereabouts  spontan 
ously,  and  were  then  loaded  with  the  oil-nut  of  vario 
sizes  and  colours,  from  a deep  green  through,  to  a live 
yellow.  The  very  shrubs  and  bushes  among  which  o 
path  lay,  were  in  blossom,  and  diffused  a most  delight! 
fragrance.  We  still  heard  the  roaring  of  the  trouble 
ocean  dashing  against  this  inhospitable  coast,  and  whit 
had  been  constantly  dinning  my  ears  for  more  than  tv 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


341 


i ith s ; for  it  being  urged  towards  this  coast  by  the 
ctinual  trade-winds,  it  never  ceases  its  loud  roarings, 
v ch  may  generally  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  from 
flinty  to  thirty  miles  from  the  sea.  The  Atlas  mountains 
v e still  in  view,  whose  pointed  tops,  now  covered  with 
mv,  seemed  to  glitter  in  the  sun,  though  at  a very  great 
liiance.  About  sunset  we  came  near  a village  consist- 
‘1;!B  of  about  twenty  stone  houses,  flat  roofed,  one  story 
ajh,  and  as  many  more  built  with  reeds  or  sticks,  in 
om  of  a sugar-loaf,  "with  a small  mosque  or  place  of 
vrship  in  the  midst.  Near  this  village,  which  was  not 
v led  in,  the  first  I had  seen  of  the  kind,  we  pitched 
)i!'  tent,  and  soon  after  this  was  done,  a great  number 
; unarmed  Moors,  probably  four  or  five  hundred,  came 
r turns  to  look  at  us,  and  inquire  who  I was.  At  the 
she  time  the  owner  of  the  village  sent  to  tell  us  we  were 
vjlcome,  and  that  he  was  sorry  it  was  not  in  his  power 
cfurnish  barley  for  our  mules,  for  his  whole  crops  had 
)( n cut  off  by  the  locusts  for  the  last  three  years  : that 
vhad  bought  twenty  ducats  worth  that  day,  but  it  was 
ilgone,  as  an  unusual  number  of  travellers  had  called 
) him ; however,  he  sent  us  a loin  of  good  mutton, 
vich  I was  pressed  to  accept,  and  about  two  dozen  of 
' gs ; our  Moors  were  also  supplied  with  coos-coo-soo. 
Learned  from  Zagury,  that  this  man  was  esteemed  a 
gpat  saint  by  all  the  Moors,;  that  his  name  was  Moham- 
n id  Ilfactesba  ; that  he  taught  all  pious  Moors  who  wish- 
e it,  to  read  in  the  Koran,  and  the  Mohammedan  laws  : 
t it  he  generally  had  from  one  to  three  hundred  scholars 
c students,  who  came  from  every  part  of  the  empire ; 
tat  he  taught  all  who  came,  and  supplied  them  with  pro- 
wions  gratis ; that  his  wife  and  one  daughter  prepared 
s victuals  and  cooked  for  all  those  people  without  any 
distance  whatever,  which  was  considered  by  the  Moors 
continual  miracle,  and  this,  Zagury  assured  me,  he  for 
s own  part  firmly  believed  ; that  he  entertained  all  trav- 
elers who  chose  to  call  on  him,  free  of  expense;  but, 
lded  he,  where  all  his  property  comes  from  to  enable 
m to  pay  these  enormous  expenses,  nobody  knows. 

It  was  soon  reported  about  that  an  English  doctor  was 
i the  tent,  and.  the  old  saint  sent  and  begged  me  to  call 


342 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


and  see  him  : so  taking  Zagury  with  me  to  act  as  in  [ 
preter,  I was  conducted  by  some  Moors  to  his  preser : 
where  I was  welcomed  by  a withered  old  man,  who  y 
seated  on  a mat  on  the  outside,  and  leaning  against  \ 
wall  of  his  house — it  was  the  saint : he  requested  mo 
sit  down  near  him,  and  then  inquired  of  Zagury  wh,[ 
was  : Zagury  satisfied  him  on  that  point,  and  gave  f 
besides  a short  sketch  of  my  late  disasters  : the  saint  s | 
he  was  a friend  to  Christians,  and  men  of  every  other  rt  . 
gion;  that  we  were  all  children  of  the  same  heavenly  1, 
ther,  and  ought  to  treat  each  other  like  brothers  : he  1 
remarked  that  God  was  great  and  good,  and  had  b( 
very  merciful  to  me,  for  which  I ought  to  be  thankful  a 
remainder  of  my  life.  He  next  informed  me,  that  he  v 
very  lame  in  his  legs,  occasioned  in  the  first  place  b 
stone  falling  on  one  of  his  feet,  that  had  lamed  and  1 
him  up  for  three  or  four  months,  and  when  he  had  so 
recovered  as  to  be  able  to  ride  out  on  his  mule,  the  a 
mal  fell  down  with  him,  and  injured  his  lame  foot  andl 
so  much  that  he  had  not  since  been  able  to  use  it  : th 
he  said,  happened  about  a year  ago,  and  within  the  1 
few  months,  his  other  leg  had  become  affected,  and 
had  now  lost  the  use  of  both  of  them,  which  was  e 
tremely  painful : he  said  he  did  not  murmur  at  his  larr 
ness,  because  he  knew  it  came  from  God,  and  was  a pu 
ishment  for  some  of  his  sins  ; yet  he  hoped  the  Almigli 
would  be  merciful,  and  pardon  his  offences,  and  pern 
him  to  walk  again,  so  that  he  might  take  care  of  his  guest 
and  do  more  good  in  the  world  ; he  also  told  me  that  tl 
number  who  were  then  studying  the  Sacred  Writings  wi 
him,  amounted  to  about  three  hundred.  I examined  h 
legs;  they  were  very  thin,  and  yet  seemed  to  be  coi 
suming  with  a feverish  heat ; no  skin  was  broken,  and 
concluded  that  he  laboured  under  an  inveterate  chroni 
disorder,  particularly  as  the  joints  were  much  swellec 
I asked  him  if  he  had  ever  applied  any  thing  as  a retried} 
or  taken  any  medicine  for  this  disorder  : he  said,  no,  ex 
cept  that  he  had  bound  some  Arabic  writing  round  their 
furnished  by  a man  eminently  skilled  in  the  science  o 
witchcraft ; that  he  had  also  kept  them  wet  with  oil,  bu 
had  received  no  benefit  whatever  from  either  of  thoa 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


34S 


plications:  he  further  said,  he  knew  some  men  were 
■ lowed  with  the  gift  of  healing,  and  hoped  that  I could 
* scribe  something  that  would  ease  his  pains.  I told 
ui  that  I felt  disposed  to  render  him  all  the  service  in 
r power  ; that  I would  see  what  medicine  I had,  and 
vuld  consider  of  his  case  : then  assuming  the  air  of  a 
] ick  doctor,  I retired  to  my  tent  with  a very  thoughtful 
mntenance.  Our  conversation  was  carried  on  by  the 
h'P  of  Zagury  as  an  interpreter.  I really  wished  to  ad- 
rriiiister  some  relief  to  this  good  man,  who  was  afflicted 
■a  h such  a painful  disorder,  and  accordingly  prepared 
spie  soap  pills,  which  was  the  only  medicine  I had  with 
rx  , and  sent  them  to  him,  with  directions  how  to  take 
i m.  I also  advised  him  to  discontinue  the  use  of  oil ; 
ftfrub  his  limbs  frequently  with  flannel  cloths,  in  order  to 
pbmote  the  circulation  of  the  fluids  ; to  endeavour  to 
w lk  every  day  with  the  assistance  of  two  men,  using  his 
k;s  as  much  as  possible,  even  if  they  did  pain  him,  and 
t<j  bind  them  up  in  fine  salt  every  night,  while  the  heat 
ehtinued  : this,  I fancied,  might  allay  the  fever.  I also 
Erected  a drink  to  be  made  for  him,  by  boiling  the  roots 
c some  particular  herbs  in  water,  and  thus  forming  a 
kid  of  decoction.  Having  explained  the  nature  of  his 
dsorder  to  him,  in  the  best  manner  I was  able,  which 
tve  him  some  encouragement,  I retired  to  my  tent. 

I any  of  the  Moors  came  and  wanted  me  to  prescribe 
nnething  for  their  various  disorders,  which  I did  ac- 
cording to  the  best  of  my  judgment,  and  the  medicines  I 
lid  within  my  power.  Among  the  rest,  was  a poor  old 
ray-headed  man  ; he  came  near,  and  thrusting  his  head 
ader  the  tent,  cried  out — Tibib,  Tibib  : (doctor,  doctor:) 
iy  guard  was  going  to  drive  him  away,  but  I told  him  to 
t him  alone,  that  I might  find  out  what  ailed  him,  lor  he 

Kerned  to  be  in  great  distress — -so  I told  Zagury  to  ask 
im  what  his  disorder  was  : this  he  made  known  without 
eremony — he  said,  he  had  been  a husband  to  three 
fives ; that  two  of  them,  who  had  died,  loved  him  ex- 
eedingly  ; that  his  present  wife  was  very  young,  fat,  and 
andsome,  and  yet  she  was  so  cold,  that  notwithstanding 

II  his  caresses,  she  could  not  return  his  love  : his  case 
vas,  indeed,  a very  plain  one,  but  to  prescribe  a remedy 


344 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


needed  some  reflection — so  the  Jew  told  him  to  go  av  \ 
and  return  in  half  an  hour.  When  he  returned,  I 5 
tended  to  sympathize  with  him  in  his  afflictions,  and1; 
commended  that  he  should  set  her  about  no  kind  of  wo 
that  he  should  entreat  her  kindly  ; feed  her  on  the  c , 
called  shanah  ; i.  e.  peas  baked  in  an  oven,  and  sw 
ming  in  beef’s  marrow,  with  a plenty  of  soft  boiled  e, 
and  rich  spices  in  her  coos- coo- soo,  &c.  &c. — that 
should  join  with  her  in  all  her  repasts,  and  chew  opi  i 
himself,  if  he  could  procure  any,  and  by  no  means » 
lodge  in  the  same  room  with  her  oftener  than  once  in  1, 
weeks.  He  promised  very  faithfully  to  obey  my  dir 
tions,  though  he  did  not  seem  to  relish  the  last  item  ' 
advice  ; but  I assured  him,  with  much  affected  gravi 
that  I had  done  my  very  best ; so  he  left  me  with  a shot 
of  blessings  for  my  kindness,  after  having  bestowed  t 
dozen  of  fresh  eggs  on  my  Jew  interpreter  for  his  troub 
The  Moors  who  were  the  pupils  of  the  saint,  joined 
prayer,  and  chanted  over  sacred  poetry  for  about  an  hot 
on  account  of  his  disorder,  begging  of  God  to  heal  th 
benefactor,  &c. 

January  the  6th,  we  started  early  in  the  morning,  after 
had  taken  leave  of  the  good  old  man.  We  proceeded  1 
our  journey,  descending  the  hills  to  the  north  about  h; 
an  hour,  when  we  saw  one  of  the  Moors  who  waited  c' 
the  old  man  the  night  before,  running  after  11s,  and  halloi 
ing  very  loudly  to  make  us  stop,  which  we  did,  andlj 
soon  came  up,  bringing  Zagury’s  gold  watch,  which! 
had  put  under  his  head  the  night  before  on  the  groun 
where  our  tent  was  pitched,  and  had  left  it  through  foi 
getfulness  and  haste  : this  watch,  together  with  an  elegas 
gold  seal,  chain,  and  trinkets,  was  worth  at  least  thre 
hundred  dollars.  The  Moor  generously  refused' any  com 
pensation  for  his  trouble,  and  I told  Zagury  it  was  well  fo 
him  that  the  people  where  he  left  it  were  not  Jews  : to  thi 
he  assented,  and  said  that  he  believed  that  the  saint  vva: 
the  most  honest  man  in  the  world. 

After  travelling  about  two  hours  in  a northerly  direction 
we  came  near  the  ruins,  or  rather  the  walls  of  an  old  town 
or  fortress — it  was  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Tensift : the  walls  were  built  in  a square  form  ; were 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


345 


Uut  one  mile  in  circuit,  and  flanked  with  thirty  small 

0 ers,  with  embrazures,  where  cannon  might  have  been 

1 inted.  A part  of  the  southern  wall  had  fallen  down  ; 
as  very  thick,  and  within  was  nothing  but  a heap  of 

;nes  and  ruins.  On  enquiry,  I was  told  by  my  guard 
i;j  this  town  was  built  by  the  former  Sultan,  Sidi  Mo- 
aumed,  in  order  to  secure  a passage  across  the  river, 
i n the  people  of  the  province  of  Abdah  rebelled  against 
ill ; that  it  was  well  garrisoned  and  mounted  with  a great 
lay  cannon,  and  called  el  Ksebbah , or  the  strong  lion- 
kl  fortress ; that  it  was  dismantled  by  the  present  em- 
siur,  who  took  away  the  cannon ; and  that  the  garrison, 
i<  all  the  inhabitants  were  destroyed  a few  years  ago  by 
id  plague,  since  which  no  soul  has  ventured  to  live  in  it. 
>?  rode  on,  and  crossed  this  stream,  dignified  by  the 
ue  of  river,  but  which,  in  fact,  is  no  more  in  the  dry 
ajan  than  an  American  brook.  The  country,  in  its 
iky,  which  is  very  wide,  is  rich  and  level ; is  said  to 
overflowed  in  a rainy  season,  and  was  at  this  time  cul- 
led in  many  parts.  W e went  along  its  right  bank,  and 
\ the  site  or  ruins  of  what  is  called  old  Swearah,  on  its 
ft  bank,  near  its  entrance  into  the  sea:  there  are  now 
i!  a few  huts  and  four  saint-houses  to  be  seen  ; all  the. 
hr  parts  of  the  town  are  buried  in  sand,  blown  from 
esea-shore.  The  river,  near  its  mouth,  is  both  deep 
it  wide,  and  the  soldier  said,  it  was  once  a considerable 
or,  where  vessels  could  enter,  but  its  mouth  is  now  en- 
:iw  dammed  up  with  sand  ; only  leaving  a small  passage 
r:he  water,  which  runs  off  in  a shallow  stream  to  the 
over  a beach  of  two  hundred  yards  in  breadth,  and 
i igh  that  the  tide  cannot  enter  the  river’s  mouth.  From 
f banks  of  this  river,  we  proceeded  towards  the  sea- 
ue,  and  descending  the  high  steep  bank,  we  entered 
: ^een  it  and  the  first  bank  from  the  ocean,  and  travelled 
.g  a delightful  inclined  plane,  about  four  miles  in 
• dth  : the  surface  of  this  plane  was  covered  with  ver- 
uL  and  flowers  of  all  the  variegated  colours  of  the 
libow,  resembling  in  appearance  the  richest  Turkey 
net. 

.bout  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  we  met  a courier 
fteen  days  from  Tangier  : having  an  inkhorn  and  paper 

44 


346 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


with  me,  I wrote  by  him  a few  lines  to  m.y  friend  V ' 
shire,  and  we  proceeded  along  towards  Saffy,  pronour ; 
by  the  natives  S’fee.  This  inclined  plane  was  the  r * 
beautiful  that  can  be  imagined  ; speckled  over  with  hi  1 
of  cattle  and  numerous  flocks  of  sheep,  which  were  qi  t 
ly  grazing  on  its  rich  herbage.  As  it  was  the  sixth  | 
of  the  week,  and  the  Jews  with  me  were  obliged  by  t i 
religion  to  stop  the  seventh,  during  their  Sabbath,  I i 
a mind  to  pitch  our  tent  on  this  delightful  plane,  and 
the  Sabbath  of  rest,  by  reposing  on  its  downy  bos 
and  inhaling  its  delicious  fragrance ; but  Zagury  assi 
me  it  was  not  safe  to  lodge  there,  and  that  he  must  e 
S’fee  in  order  to  recruit  his  stock  of  provisions,  for  tl: 
Jew  could  eat  no  kind  of  meat  except  it  was  killed  I 
priest  of  his  nation.  He  was  exceedingly  superstiti ; 
though  educated  in  England,  and  we  kept  on  tow  i 
Saffy.  When  in  sight  of  the  walls  of  that  city,  we  c i 
near  a large  saint-house,  on  a cliff  near  the  sea’s  brin  ■ 
here  our  soldier  and  muleteers  made  the  Jews  dismo  i 
and  pass  this  house  barefooted,  though  at  half  a m1 
distance  from  our  path  : he  told  me  that  the  house  i 
built  over  the  remains  of  a great  saint ; that  every  j 
who  was  not  a Moslemin  must  walk  past  it  barefoot 
that  people  came  to  visit  it  from  all  quarters  to  be  ci  ( 
of  their  diseases  ; but,  added  he,  as  you  are- a good  m 
and  very  weak,  you  may  ride  past,  but  must  pay  the  s i 
one  dollar  towards  keeping  his  house  in  repair.  I did ) 
much  relish  this  mode  of  giving  away  my  money,  and  < 
the  soldier  so  ; but  he  replied,  that  no  Christian  musty 
it  without  this  tribute,  and  that  it  would  be  deman  < 
from  him  on  his  entrance  into  S’fee.  I was  convince  i 
was  only  a trick  of  his  to  extort  money ; but  there  i 
no  getting  off,  and  so  I paid  him  the  dollar,  telling  1 
at  the  same  time  1 should  set  it  down  as  a debt  due  to  i 
saint’s  account,  and  presumed  he  would  have  no  objec  i 
to  repay  me  in  another  world  : “ No,  (said  he,)  that  si 
was  very  liberal  in  this  world,  and  will,  no  doubt,  ; 
you  both  principal  and  interest  in  the  other,  and  intercl 
for  your  admission  into  paradise  in  the  bargain  he  i 
a shrewd  fellow,  and  understood  my  feelings  on  the  s ) 
ject  perfectly. 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


347 


After  the  Jews  had  walked  about  a mile,  they  were 
gain  permitted  to  ride.  We  approached  the  city  on  its 
utheast  or  fortress  side  : some  ruins  of  its  ancient  walls 
ere  still  visible,  which  proved  it  to  have  formerly  been, 
i least,  four  times  larger  than  at  present.  It  was  near 
ght,  and  we  went  round  the  fortress,  which  appeared  to 
1:  very  strong,  and  was  defended  by  a double  wall : it  is 
i uated  on  an  eminence,  which  not  only  commands  the 
tasty  that  is  attached  to  it  below,  but  is  also  well  situated 
fir  defending  all  the  entrances  into  the  town,  and  has  a 
viod  number  of  cannon  mounted  on  it : the  whole  ap- 
jqpars  extremely  well  calculated  for  defence,  and  I imagine 
j must  originally  have  been  constructed  by  some  eminent 
juropean  engineer.  A small  brook  of  water  runs  from 
te  east  near  the  northern  wall  of  the  city.  We  entered 
i at  the  eastern  gate,  and  proceeded  through  a crowd  of 
Sectators  to  the  house  of  Zagury’s  Jew  friend.  The 
hvs  were  obliged  to  dismount,  and  walk  into  the  city, 
lit  they  allowed  me  to  ride.  Having  entered  the  court, 
for  the  building  was  very  spacious,  but  had  very  much 
f caved,  and  was  fast  crumbling  to  the  ground,)  we  as- 
ended  a broken  staircase  to  the  gallery  of  the  first  story, 
ad  were  conducted  to  a small  room  that  had  been  shut 
T),  apparently,  for  a long  time : the  unhinged  door  and 
nattered  window-shutter  were,  however,  removed  to  ac- 
ommodate  our  company,  and  I took  a peep  into  the 
oartment : it  was  about  ten  feet  square,  and  nearly  filled 
ith  filth  of  almost  every  description  ; the  whole  ferment- 
g in  rancid  argan  oil,  which  far  exceeded  in  scent  the 
post  stinking  fish  or  blubber  oil.  The  effluvia  arising 
om  this  newly  opened  bed  of  nastiness  entering  my  ol- 
ctory  nerves,  was  immediately  transmitted  to  my  stomach, 
id  brought  on  an  instantaneous  vomiting,  which  confin- 
ed for  about  two  hours  without  intermission,  until  my 
omach  was  completely  empty,  and  it  threw  up  besides  a 
ansiderable  quantity  of  fresh  blood : this  abominable 
:ench  caused  a nausea  even  in  the  Jews’  stomachs  ; how- 
ver,  as  there  was  no  other  place  to  lodge  in,  and  the 
weather  looked  likely  for  rain,  they  cleared  out  this  chain- 
er,  washed  it  with  hot  water,  and  fumigated  it  after- 
wards with  burning  charcoal  and  brimstone : Zagury 


348 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


taking  care  to  observe,  by  way  of  recommendation,  i| 
this  house  was  built  by  a Christian,  and  that  its  occupa  | 
who  were  his  father’s  friends,  were  the  most  respect;  i 
Jews  in  S’fee.  The  house  was,  indeed,  large,  and  | 
been  very  commodious  ; but  its  Jewish  tenants,  consists 
of  about  twenty  miserable  dirty  families,  did  not  chc 
to  lend  nor  let  to  us  a better  apartment,  and  after  refn 
ing  myself  with  a cup  of  strong  tea,  my  stomach  beet  s 
composed,  and  I went  through,  in  the  course  of  the  e 
ning,  with  their  religious  ceremonies,  in  company  v 
the  Jews,  as  I have  before  described. 

In  Saffy  the  Jews  live  in  company  with,  i.  e.  promis 
ously  among,  the  Moors  in  adjoining  houses.  On  tl  i 
Sabbath,  all  the  men  belonging  to  the  house  went 
the  synagogues,  and  the  women,  in  the  mean  time,  de 
ed  themselves  in  their  best  attire  ; they  had  already  staii 
the  insides  of  their  hands  and  lingers,  between  every  jo 
and  their  finger-nails,  yellow  ; had  borrowed  and  put  i 
fine  ear-rings  and  necklaces  of  pearl  and  amber,  tj 
golden  chains,  golden  hearts,  and  other  trinkets ; th 
hung  down  upon  their  naked  bosoms  ; they  wore  bra 
lets  on  their  ankles  and  wrists,  and  had  put  on  clean  lin , 
or  rather,  cotton  chemises,  which  was  to  them  a real  li 
ury.  Their  hair,  which  was  long  and  black,  was  nev 
braided,  and  greased  over  smoothly  with  argan  oil : tl 
had  painted  their  eyes  and  eyebrows  black,  and  the  nr 
of  them  wore  slippers  ; thus  tricked  up  in  all  their  finei 
two  of  the  most  handsome  and  stylishly  dressed  damse 
with  a number  of  the  second-rate,  came  round  to  that  si 
of  die  gallery  where  I sat  quietly  and  alone,  writing  do\ 
notes  for  my  journal : they  first  expressed  their  wont 
at  my  manner  of  writing  from  left  to  right ; then  at  t 
letters  I formed,  &c. — and  having,  by  this  method,  su 
ceedecl  in  diverting  my  attention  from  what  I was  aboi 
the  two  smartest  looking  girls,  who  were  about  sixte< 
and  eighteen  years  of  age,  with  quite  pretty  faces,  ai 
richly  dressed,  invited  me  to  go  with  them,  and  see  the 
father’s  room  : my  curiosity  prompted  me  to  comply,  ar 
I suffered  them  to  lead  me  along  into  their  chamber,  vvhe 
their  mother,  a very  fleshy  middle  aged  woman,  was  sittir 
a mattress ; and  as  they  had  no  other  seat,  they  invite 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


o4& 


: ;j  to  sit  down  on  the  same  bed  beside  her.  After  due 
5 utations,  the  old  lady  left  the  room,  shutting  the  door 
ler  her.  The  object  of  these  sirens  was  to  get  money 
fim  me ; but  finding  I was  able  to  withstand  all  their 
t nptations,  they  at  last  permitted  me  to  retire,  but  not 
tfore  they  had  tried  every  indelicate  art  and  enticement, 
a which  they  were  complete  mistresses,  to  effect  their 
prpose.  After  I had  withdrawn  from  the  room,  I was 
1 sown  into  all  the  other  apartments  on  that  floor,  in  sue- 
ession,  and  their  artifices  were  still  played  oft'  to  win  me, 
c rather  my  cash,  until,  at  length,  finding  that  all  their 
vies  proved  abortive,  they  next  had  recourse  to  begging 
money,  but  I had  none  to  spare  them. 

The  Jews  in  Safly  are  very  poor  and  miserable  ; they 
■ re  generally  about  half  clothed,  and  that  with  filthy 
r^s.  Safly  is  a small  place,  and  has  no  trade  ; so  that 
" Jews  are  hard  put  to  it,  and  are  obliged  to  resort  to 
eery  base  expedient  in  order  to  gain  a mere  subsistence. 
Icould  not  but  pity  their  condition,  and  lament  the  de- 
:avity  to  which  they  all  seemed  to  be  prone,  though,  per- 
flps,  oftentimes  plunging  into  guilt  from  sheer  necessity. 

This  day  I went  in  company  with  my  guard  to  view 
tie  town  and  port  of  S’fee  : the  town  is  small,  and  strong- 
1 walled  in  on  all  sides  : the  walls,  for  the  most  part,  are 
lade  of  rough  stone  and  lime,  like  those  of  Mogadore 
( Swearah,  except  that  part  next  the  sea,  which  is  laid 
ib  with  large  hewn  stone,  and  appears  very  strong : the 
alls  are  flanked  with  four  towers,  besides  the  el  Ksebbah „ 
di  which  cannon  are  mounted,  and  a battery  at  the  water- 
>rt.  The  town  lies  very  low,  and  is  surrounded  on  all 
ies  by  hills,  and  appears  to  be  the  resceptacle  of  all  the 
th  of  the  country  near  it.  Its  streets  are  very  narrow, 
ooked,  irregular,  and  not  paved  : the  houses  are  built 
' rough  stone  and  lime  ; have  few  windows  next  the 
reets ; are  from  one  to  three  stories  high,  and  flat  roofed ; 
ut,  like  the  houses  in  the  cities  in  Spain,  have  a court, 
ie  interior  of  which  serves  for  a stable.  The  public 
uilding.s  are  three  mosques,  with  high  square  towers, 
id  a large  hewn  stone  building,  formerly  occupied  as  a 
ustom-house,  but  now  uninhabited  and  falling  to  pieces, 
"he  Jews  have  also  twelve  small  rooms,  for  the  purpose 


350 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


of  worshipping,  which  they  call  synagogues.  The  m i 
her  of  inhabitants  in  Saffy  is  computed  at  twenty  th 
sand,  that  is,  sixteen  thousand  Moors  and  four  thous  ( 
Jews.  The  walls  of  the  present  town,  including  the  f j» 
ress,  are  about  one  mile  in  circumference.  The  inh; 
tants  of  the  city  are  supplied  with  good  water,  brough 
kegs  on  asses  from  the  brook  that  washes  its  north : 
walls.  All  the  cattle,  sheep,  See.  that  are  owned  in ; 
feed  near  S’fee,  are  driven  within  the  walls  every  nit , 
and  from  its  appearance,  no  dirt  is  ever  carried  out  of  : 
city : the  filth  in  the  streets  was  in  many  parts  two  1 i 
deep  at  the  least,  so  that  it  was  quite  impossible  for  me  i 
get  along  through  the  mire  without  being  besmeared  v i 
it  up  to  my  knees.  Passing  along  one  street  as  well  a 
could  pick  my  way,  I lost  both  my  shoes  in  the  mud,  1 
some  Jew  boys  recovered  them  again ; for  which  servic 
had  to  pay  them  half  a dollar. 

The  bay  of  Saffy  is  formed  by  the  projection  of  C; : 
Cantin  ; is  very  spacious,  and  well  defended  by  that  c: 
from  the  common  trade  winds.  Vessels  visiting  that  pi; 
are  obliged  to  anchor  very  broad  in  the  offing,  and  wh 
the  ground  is  said  to  be  very  foul : the  landing-place 
either  on  a sand  beach,  upon  which  the  surf  breaks  w 
considerable  violence,  or  else  in  among  some  rocks,  wh< 
there  was  formerly  a kind  of  basin,  which  is  now  neat 
filled  up  with  sand.  There  were  about  twenty  fishi 
boats  on  this  beach,  which  were  in  a bad  state  of  repa 
The  port  of  Saffy  has  been  shut,  by  order  of  the  Suita 
for  several  years.  A circular  fort  stands  on  a hill  to  t 
north,  and  within  half  cannon  shot  of  the  town,  and  whit 
completely  commands  it : it  had  been  lately  dismantle 
and  the  cannon  carried  into  the  city,  for  fear  it  would  1 
taken  possession  of  by  the  field  Moors  and  Arabs  durii 
the  late  rebellion.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  of  this  city 
for  the  most  part  uncultivated. 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


351 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

> intimation  of  the  journey — Description  of  Asbedre— 
Of  a flight  of  locusts— Of  the  destroying  locust  of  Af- 
rica— Mazagan , Azamore,  Darlbeda , Fidallah — Arrival 
at  Rhabat ■ — Of  Rhabat. 

We  left  Saffy  early  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  Jan- 
i ry,  and  found  the  country,  as  we  proceeded  northward, 
iore  open,  but  not  much  cultivated : the  ground  was 
vered  with  flowers  of  different  kinds,  and  every  shrub 
us  also  in  full  blossom,  and  seemed  to  vie  in  beauty  with 
i,  neighbour,  while  their  blended  fragrance  rising,  with 
te  exhaling  dews,  and  wafted  along  by  a gentle  land 
l eeze,  conveyed  to  the  soul  sensations  of  the  most  ex- 
ciisite  delight.  We  travelled  along  during  this  whole  day 
a uneven  ground,  frequently  meeting  large  droves  of 
laded  camels  and  mules,  and  passing  many  groups  of 
;nts,  some  formed  of  woollen  cloth,  and  pitched  in  the 
: me  manner  as  the  Arab  tents  on  the  desert,  and  others 
ith  reeds;  regaling  ourselves  occasionally  with  milk, 
hich  we  found  to  be  excellent,  and  in  great  abundance, 
iid  at  night  pitched  our  tent  near  one  of  those  flying  camps 
hich  are  here  called  Douhars. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  we  started  very  early,  and 
ter  riding  about  three  hours,  came  to  the  walls  of  an  old 
ortuguese  town  and  fortress,  now  called  Asbedre,  but  in 
ains  and  deserted.  It  is  situated  on  the  second  bank 
•om  the  sea,  one  hundred  feet  above  a beautiful  harbour 
r small  port  and  sound,  formed  by  an  opening  through 
he  first  bank,  which  resemble^  the  entrance  of  a dock  : 

: appeared  shallow,  and  one  vf  ssel  only  can  enter  at  a 
ime.  This  port  seems  to  be  capable  of  containing  a vast 
lumber  of  small  vessels,  where  they  might  ride  in  perfect 
afety  in  all  seasons  of  the  year  : here  is  also,  near  the 
■vails  of  the  ruin,  a small  Moorish  settlement  of  badly 
ouilt  houses  and  tents.  Passing  this,  we  entered  into  one 
of  the  richest  valleys  ever  formed  by  nature  : the  face  of 
the  earth  here  was  smiling  with  cultivation,  and  speckled 
over  with  flocks  and  herds  ; here  thousands  of  oxen,  sheep, 


352 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


goats,  and  camels,  horses  and  asses,  were  peaceably  fei  j. 
ing  in  concert,  while  hundreds  of  the  inhabitants  w : 
busied  in  tilling  the  rich  soil,  in  sowing  wheat  and  barl , 
and  cutting  down,  with  a common  sword,  the  weeds  tj 
grew  where  they  had  reaped  their  last  crops,  higher  tl 
their  heads,  and  some  of  them  more  than  an  inch 
thickness,  in  order  to  admit  the  plough.  This  valley  i; 
bounded  on  the  west  by  a long  sound  or  narrow  arm , 
the  sea,  in  which  the  tide  ebbs  and  flows  many  feet : 1 
sea  water  enters  it  near  Asbedre,  and  on  its  right : the  v 
ley  is  bounded  by  a hill  of  easy  ascent : its  mean  breac 
is  about  four  miles,  and  its  length  about  twenty  mill 
The  valley  contains  hundreds  of  wells  of  excellent  wat< 
fitted  with  solid  stone  basins  around  their  mouths,  whi 
were  covered  with  large  stones ; these  serve  to  give  drii 
to  their  flocks,  and  to  quench  the  thirst  of  the  weary  1 
bourer  and  traveller.  Some  of  these  wells  were  immens 
ly  deep,  and  a windlass  was  rigged  to  them  to  draw  tl 
water. 

Near  the  middle  of  this  valley  we  stopped  to  take  o' 
dinner : my  mind  was  absorbed  in  contemplating  tl 
riches  and  beauties  of  bountiful  nature,  when  I observe 
something  that  appeared  like  a cloud  of  thick  smoke  risir 
over  the  hill  at  the  northeast,  and  with  the  wind  approacl 
ing  us  rapidly.  I remarked’  to  my  Jew,  that  there  mu 
be  a monstrous  fire  in  that  quarter  ; no,  said  he,  they  ai 
only  locusts.  In  the  mean  time  the  flight  was  fast  aj 
proaching,  and  soon  came  within  a short  distance,  an 
directly  towards  us.  Every  labourer’s  attention  was  in 
stantly  turned  from  his  plough  and  other  employment 
the  oxen  were  stopped,  and  every  one  stood  aghast  will 
apprehension  and  dismay  painted  in  strong  colours  on  hi 
anxious  countenance,  fearing  his  field  was  to  become  thi 
prey  of  this  devouring  plague.  The  locusts  began  to  de 
scend,  and  alighted  to  the  northward  of  us ; very  fev 
passing  where  we  sat : we  soon  mounted  and  rode  on,  anc 
as  we  proceeded  we  found  the  whole  surface  of  the  grounc 
covered  with  them  as  thick  as  they  could  stand,  and  a! 
busy  in  the  work  of  destruction.  As  it  was  necessary  foi 
them  to  clear  our  road  to  avoid  being  crushed  to  death  by 
the  trampling  of  our  mules,  those  in  and  near  the  pat! 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO 


353 


)se  as  we  passed  along,  filling  the  air  around  us  like  one 
mtinutd' swarm  of  bees  ; whilst  thousands  came  in  con- 
ct  with  e r faces  and  bodies.  In  this  situation,  fearin 
iy  eyes  ould  be  injured,  I covered  my  face  with 
unsparent  silk  handkerchief,  and  pushed  on  my  mule  as 
1st  as  I could  ; we  were  about  two  hours  in  passing  this 
1st  of  destroyers,  which  when  on  the  wing  made  a sound, 
finely  described  in  Holy  Writ,  “ like  the  rushing  of 
Irses  into  battle.”  The  space  covered  by  this  flight  ex- 
uded in  length  for  about  eight  miles  along  the  road  and 
t ree  miles  in  breadth.  After  they  had  fairly  alighted,  the 
Boors,  each  resuming  his  labour,  left  the  locusts  in  the 
f'l  enjoyment  of  their  repast,  assuring  us,  that  when 
l y had  filled  themselves,  which  would  be  in  the  course 
o!  that  day  and  the  night,  they  would  move  off  in  a body 
vpf  the  wind,  probably  one  day’s  march  further,  where 
;l!y  would  again  repeat  their  ravages,  leaving  the  remain- 
1 ■ for  other  successive  flights  ; but  which  they  hoped,  by 
1 blessing  of  God,  would  not  destroy  the  whole  of  their 
nps  and  all  the  herbage,  as  they  had  done  some  years 
;>  bin  the  last  seven,  during  which  space  they  had  con- 
ipfed  to  lay  waste  the  country.  To  see  such  fair  pros- 
afcts  of  crops  thus  blasted  in  a moment,  would  fill  the 
irjabitants  of  more  refined  countries  with  feelings  of  des- 
4%  and  their  fields  would  be  left  untilled  ; while  the 
M)hammedan  considers  it  either  as  a just  chastisement 
r m heaven  for  his  own  or  his  nation’s  sins,  or  as  directed 
that  fatality  in  which  they  all  believe  ; — thus  when  one 
ap  is  destroyed,  if  of  wheat,  they  sow  the  same  ground 
orr  again  with  barley,  or  plant  it  with  Indian  corn  or  peas, 
cas  to  have  every  possible  chance  for  subsisting.  These 
ftabs,  while  at  their  labour,  are  entirely  naked,  except  a 
nail  piece  of  woollen  cloth  about  their  loins  — they 
rke  use  of  the  same  plough  and  harness  as  the  people 
iSuse,  already  described,  but  in  this  part  of  the  country 
by  plough  with  a pair  of  oxen  : — and  here  let  me  beg 
b reader’s  indulgence  for  a few  moments,  while  1 under- 
ae  to  give  him  a description  of  that  wonderful  insect, 
h destroying  locust,  that  so  often  lays  waste  the  fertile 
>tns  of  Asia  and  the  northern  regions  of  Africa.  1 call 

45 


^ crq 


354 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


him  the  destroying  locust  of  Africa,  because,  as  far 
my  memory  serves  me,  he  is  first  described  in  Holy  W 
as  a destroyer  in  the  land  of  Egypt. 

DESCRIPTION. 

The  locust  of  Africa  is  a winged  insect,  which  resei 
bles  both  in  size  and  appearance  at  the  first  view,  t 
largest  sized  grasshopper  of  America  ; but  on  a close  i 
spection,  differs  from  him  very  materially  : the  shape 
his  head  and  face  is  similar  to  that  of  a common  shec 
being  crowned  with  two  long  and  tapering  protuberance 
which  turn  backwards  like  the  horns  of  a goat.  He  1 
attached  to  his  muzzle  a pair  of  smellers  or  feelers,  by  t 
help  of  which  he  feels  and  gathers  up  the  herbage  abc 
him,  which  he  nips  off,  making  a champing  noise  like 
sheep  when  eating  : he  has  four  wings,  and  the  hint 
pair  are  quite  transparent : he  has  six  legs,  with  two  cla 
to  each  foot,  which  are  divided  something  like  the  h( 
of  a sheep,  but  are  more  spread  in  proportion  to  th 
size,  and  pointed:  he  is  stout  about  the  neck,  breai 
and  body ; the  hinder  part  of  which  is  forked,  and  arrr ; 
with  a hard  bony  substance,  by  the  help  of  which  he  c 
make  a hole  in  the  ground. 

The  largest  African  locust  is  above  three  inches 
length,  and  nearly  one  inch  in  diameter  : he  has  the  me 
voracious  appetite  of  any  insect  in  the  world,  and  devot 
grass,  grain,  the  leaves  of  trees,  and  every  green  thii 
with  indiscriminate  and  merciless  avidity.  They  go  foi 
by  bands  or  flights,  and  each  flight  is  said  to  have  a kit 
which  directs  its  movements  with  great  regularity.  L 
custs  can  only  fly  when  their  wings  are  perfectly  dry  ; a. 
when  they  rise  they  always  fly  oft'  before  the  wind,  a. 
fill  the  air  like  an  immense  cloud  of  thick  smoke  : wifi 
the  leader  alights  upon  the  ground,  all  the  flight  folio  t 
his  example  as  fast  as  possible.  They  are  at  times  so  n 
merous,  that  they  may  be  said  to  cover  the  whole  face  j 
the  country  ; then  they  devour  every  spear  of  grass  al 
grain,  even  eating  it  into  the  ground,  dislodging  it  ret 
and  branch,  cutting  off  all  the  leaves  from  the  shrubs  a l 
trees,  and  sometimes  all  the  bark  from  tender  trees  ii  * 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO.  355 

/hole  province,  and  that  too.  in  a very  short  space  of 
me. 

The  present  African  locusts  are  of  the  same  race  of  in- 
lets that  are  mentioned  in  the  Bible,  as  one  of  the  plagues 
int  upon  the  land  of  Egypt,  by  the  Almighty  : they  have 
wavs  been  considered  in  the  countries  where  they  usually 
ommit  ravages  as  a scourge  from  heaven,  and  as  a pun- 
ihment  for  the  sins  of  the  people.  The  locust  has  been 
escribed  as  being  produced  by  some  unknown  physical 
tuse,  different  from  the  ordinary  mode  of  animal  pro- 
uction  : this  is  a mistake  : when  I was  in  Mogadore,  Mr. 
Villshire  told  me  that  the  locusts  were  produced  by  a 
4ry  well  known  and  natural  cause ; that  the  female,  a 
tie  before  the  flights  disappear  for  the  season,  thrusts  her 
inder  parts  into  the  surface  of  the  ground  up  to  her 
ings,  first  having  found  a suitable  spot  of  earth  for  that 
prpose  : here  she  forms  a cell  in  shape  like  that  made  by 
tie  bee,  but  from  one  to  three  inches  in  depth,  and  one  to 
tl'o  inches  in  diameter.  Having  made  the  sides  of  the 
dl  strong  by  means  of  a glutinous  matter,  which  she  has 
lie  power  of  producing,  she  deposits  her  eggs,  which  are 
iackish,  and  so  small  as  scarcely  to  be  distinguishable 
uth  the  naked  eye : each  cell  is  filled  full,  and  contains 
;i  immense  number  of  eggs  : she  then  seals  it  over  care- 
fjlly  with  the  same  kind  of  glutinous  matter  of  which  the 
i side  of  the  cell  is  formed,  and  covering  it  over  with 
:.rth,  she  leaves  it  to  be  hatched  out  by  the  heat  of  the 
an  in  due  time,  which  generally  happens  in  the  month  of 
inuary  : the  eggs  in  one  cell  alone  produce  a host  of  lo- 
jists,  amounting  to  near  a million.  I opened  and  ex- 
mined  several  cells  in  and  near  a garden,  two  miles  from 
logadore,  and  w7as  much  surprised  to  see  the  eggs  lie 
lick  together  in  one  mass,  like  the  spawn  of  fishes.  I 
iok  up  some  of  it  on  the  tip  of  a sharp-pointed  pen- 
tife,  and  separating  and  counting  the  eggs,  by  means  of 

microscope,  as  accurately  as  possible,  I enumerated 
wen  hundred  and  forty- one.  Admitting  that  every  egg 
ould  produce  a locust,  and  that  the  number  contained  in 
te  small  portion  on  the  point  of  the  penknife  was  the  one 
tousandth  part  of  the  whole  mass,  (which  is  a low  esti- 
tate,)  it  proves  that  a single  locust  could,  produce  in  one 


356 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


season,  even  if  she  fills  but  one  cell,  upwards  of  half 
million  of  her  species.  When  the  locust  is  hatched,  j[ 
crawls  out  of  the  earth  a little  worm,  of  a light  brov 
colour,  and  the  whole  cell  of  them  are  said  to  hat 
about  the  same  time.  This  host  of  worms  creep  foi 
from  the  ground,  and  commence  their  march,  all  goi 
one  course,  generally  towards  the  north  or  west,  devourij 
every  thing  green  that  comes  in  their  way,  and  leavi  j 
behind  them  a dismal  scene  of  desolation.  These  repti 
grow  so  rapidly,  that  within  the  space  of  one  week  tb 
are  prepared  for  their  transformation,  when  they  climb  j 
a stout  spear  of  grass  or  a twig,  attach  their  skin  fast  to 
and  by  a sudden  effort,  burst  the  skin  asunder  at  its  he: 
and  come  forth  a four- winged  insect,  with  six  legs  ; tb 
remain  a short  time  in  the  sun  to  dry  themselves  and  th 
wings  before  they  attempt  flying,  which  they  comraer 
by  trying  separately  to  fly  a short  distance  at  a time,  s 
continue  fluttering  and  skipping  like  grasshoppers  for  t 
or  three  days  ; next  they  set  off  in  a body  on  the  wii 
and  fly  from  five  miles  to  one  hundred,  without  stoppii 
just  as  the  country  seems  to  please  their  taste,  and  tl 
then  go  on,  as  I have  before  described. 

Dry  warm  seasons  are  favourable  to  the  breeding 
locusts,  and  a very  wet  cold  one  is  sure  to  destroy  thi 
in  the  empire  of  Morocco  until  the  flights  come  again  fn 
other  parts.  I do  not  know  precisely  the  months 
which  the  female  locust  makes  her  deposit  of  eggs,  oi;f 
that  it  is  in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer,  or  first  of  p 
fall  months.  The  old  locusts  having  done  their  share  s 
mischief,  are  either  driven  off  by  the  winds  into  the  s 
or  die  a natural  death  ; thus  making  room  for  a new  a 
more  hungry  swarm.  When  all  have  disappeared  in  tl: 
Moorish  empire,  a few  flights  are  seen  to  come  from  i 
borders  of  the  desert,  or  from  the  coasts  of  Egypt,  whi  i 
again  lay  waste  the  whole  country,  until  they  are  in  tb' 
turn  destroyed  by  frequent  rains  and  cold  damps, 
strong  gales  from  the  land,  which  sweeps  them  intoi: 
ocean.  It  is  said  at  Mogadore,  and  believed  bv  1 
Moors,  Christians,  and  Jews,  that  the  Bereberies  inbu  ■ 
iting  the  Atlas  mountains,  have  the  power  to  destr 
every  flight ' of  locusts  that  comes  from  the  south  a ! 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


357 


'oi  the  east,  and  thus  ward  off  this  dreadful  scourge 
ci  all  the  countries  north  and  west  of  this  stupendous 
■ic;e,  merely  by  building  large  fires  on  those  parts  of  the 
ce  over  which  the  locusts  are  known  always  to  pass, 
i in  the  season  when  they  are  likely  to  appear,  which  is 
r . definite  period,  within  a certain  number  of  days,  in 
lost  every  year.  The  Atlas  being  high,  and  the  peaks 
o(?red  with  snow,  these  insects  become  chilled  in  passing 
vr  them,  when  seeing  the  fires,  they  are  attracted  by  the 
lie,  and  plunge  into  the  flames.  I do  not  know  what 
tree  of  credit  ought  to  be  attached  to  this  opinion,  but 
. i certain  that  the  Moorish  Sultan  used  to  pay  a consid- 
rnle  sum  of  money  yearly  to  certain  inhabitants  of  the 
c s of  the  Atlas  in  order  to  keep  the  locusts  out  of  his 
c unions.  The  Moors  and  Jews  further  affirm,  that 
ling  the  time  in  which  the  Sultan  paid  the  aforesaid 
erly  stipend  punctually,  not  a locust  was  to  be  seen  in 
ijdominions  north  and  west  of  the  Atlas,  but  that  about 
i:  years  ago  the  emperor  refused  to  pay  the  stipulated 
uu,  because  no  locusts  troubled  his  country,  and  he 
jpght  he  had  been  imposed  upon  ; but  it  so  happened 
i the  very  same  year  the  locusts  again  made  their  ap- 
erance,  and  have  continued  to  lay  Avaste  the  country 
vr  since. 

Locusts  are  esteemed  very  good  food  by  the  Moors, 
Ubs,  and  Jews,  in  Barbary,  who  catch  large  numbers 
if  them  in  their  season,  and  throw  them,  while  jumping 
lie,  into  a pan  of  boiling  argan  oil  : here  they  hiss  and 
rj  until  their  wings  are  burned  off,  and  their  bodies  are 
>t  Hciently  cooked,  when  they  are  poured  out  and  eaten. 

I ave  seen  many  thousands  cooked  in  this  manner,  and 
re  had  the  curiosity  to  taste  them  : they  resemble  in 
insistence  and  flavour,  the  yolks  of  hard  boiled  hens’ 
;gs.  After  my  arrival  at  Tangier,  on  conversing  with 
or  Consul  General,  Mr.  Simpson,  respecting  the  locusts, 
h confirmed  the  substance  of  what  I had  before  heard 
ad  observed  myself  in  Barbary  concerning  them.  This 
ryenous  insect  had  actually  caused  a famine  in  that  part 
o the  country,  so  that  Mr.  Simpson,  and  the  other  Chris- 
tn  Consuls  at  Tangier,  were  obliged  to  send  to  Gibral- 
and  buy  American  flour  for  the  ordinary  consumption 


358 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


of  their  families  ; inferior  American  flour  was  then  se  i 
at  Tangier  for  fifteen  dollars  per  barrel,  although  bill 
the  scarcity  occasioned  by  the  locusts,  the  finest  Bar  i 
wheat  used  to  be  sold  for  one  dollar  and  a half  per  be ; 

Mr.  Simpson  further  stated,  that  in  tire  year  18141 
the  best  of  my  recollection  as  to  the  time,)  being  wit! 
family  at  his  house  on  Mount  Washington,  near  ( 
Spartel,  and  where  the  locusts  covered  the  whole  fad 
the  ground  at  night,  when  he  arose  the  next  morning 
could  not  perceive  a single  one,  and  observed  to  his  !| 
that  all  the  locusts  which  had  remained  with  them  i| 
long  time,  and  destroyed  most  of  the  herbage  about  '■ 
country,  had  disappeared  ; he  wondered  at  first  what  i 
become  of  them ; but  after  the  fog  in  the  strait  was  i 
sipated,  looking  at  a vessel  through  his  glass,  that’ 
passing  out,  he  observed  that  the  whole  surface  ol 
water  was  covered  with  something  that  appeared  li 
reddish  scum,  and  on  reflection,  it  struck  him,  than 
locusts  had  attempted  at  night  to  migrate  across  the  st  t 
into  Spain,  flying  before  the  wind,  which  was  fair,  I 
blowing  from  the  southward;  but  that  they  were  es 
lost  in  the  fog,  or  checked  on  their  passage  by  coni] 
winds,  (which  generally  prevail  at  night,  particular^ 
the  summer  time,)  in  the  middle  of  the  strait ; and  d 
thus  forced  by  fatigue  and  the  humidity  of  the  atmosph  ■ 
to  settle  upon  the  surface  of  the  water,  from  whence  I 
could  not  rise,  and  were,  consequently,  all  drowi 
That  two  days  afterwards,  a vessel  arrived  at  Tan 
from  Gibraltar,  the  captain  of  which  confirmed  his  ( 
jecture,  by  assuring  him  that  vast  numbers  of  dead 
custs  had  been  driven  ashore  on  the  rock  of  Gibraltar, 
along  the  coast  of  Spain,  from  Algeciras  to  Tarijji 
distance  of  nearly  twenty  miles,  and  that  there  were 
greater  numbers  of  their  carcasses  floating  in  the  str; 
near  the  Spanish  shore.  I was  also  informed,  that  sev 
years  ago,  nearly  all  the  locusts  in  the  empire,  wl 
were  at  that  time  very  numerous,  and  had  laid  waste 
country,  were  carried  oflf  in  one  night,  and  drownei 
the  Atlantic  ocean  ; that  their  dead  carcasses  a few  cl 
afterwards  were  driven  by  winds  and  currents  on  sh( 
all  along  the  western  coast  extending  from  near  C 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


359 


prtel  to  beyond  Mogadore,  forming,  in  many  places, 
raense  piles  on  the  sand  beach  : that  the  stench  arising 
ci  their  remains  was  intolerable,  and  was  supposed  to 
tap  produced  the  plague  which  broke  out  about  that 
m in  various  parts  of  the  Moorish  do’minionsi  I have 
n,  faithfully  embodied  what  information  I could  obtain 
a rding  the  locusts,  from  living  authority,  which  I deem 
icibitable,  and  to  which  I have  added  such  facts  and 
itumstances  as  fell  under  my  own  observation,  unas- 
vd  by  books  ; and  I trust  the  whole  will  be  found  es- 
ially  correct.  As  I do  not  profess  to  be  a naturalist, 
jmnot  be  expected  that  I should  undertake  to  give  a 
epription  of  his  interior  formation,  &c. — but  for  a side 
wv  of  this  famous  and  formidable  animal,  see  plate 
9.  To  return  to  my  Journal: 

Leaving  this  beautiful  valley,  embellished  and  enriched 
ymany  thousands  of  fig  and  other  fruit  trees,  as  well  as 
my  clumps  of  grape  vines  that  seem  to  thrive  exceed- 
uy  well,  we  ascended  the  hill  on  our  right,  and  about 
ac  approached  a douhar  or  encampment  that  was  sur- 
> tided  by  a stone  wall : the  chief  of  the  douhar  was  not 
/ ing  to  let  us  enter  within  the  walls,  but  our  soldier 
ilng  him  that  I was  the  Sultan’s  doctor,  and  must  go 
:'he  reluctantly  consented,  telling  my  guard,  however, 
vi  must  take  care  of  our  baggage  ourselves,  as  the  whole 
ffithe  people  in  the  douhar,  both  men  and  women,  were 
iliof  the  venereal  disease.  They  offered  us  milk  and 
ffs,  and  asked  my  advice  in  regard  to  their  disorder.  1 
ca  them,  I had  no  medicine  with  me- — I,  however,  re- 
jpmended  a milk  or  light  diet,  and  a drink  to  be  made 
31  steeping  a certain  root,  having  an  affinity,  in  appear- 
itle,  to  sarsaparilla,  that  is  common  in  this  part  of  the 
cuntry  ; and  to  let  all  drink  plentifully  of  this  decoction, 

: ten  weeks,  not  doubting  but  it  would  prove  benefi- 
e 1.  We  slept  litre  without  molestation,  started  early  on 
tl:  morning  of  the  9th,  and  passed,  in  the  course  of  the 
dy,  many  doutiars  of  tents  in  the  open  fields  ; many  or- 
cards  regularly  planted,  consisting  of  several  hundred 
f -trees,  fenced  in  with  stone  walls  very  thick,  and  from 
le  to  six  feet  in  height : the  land  on  both  sides  of  the 
ath  was  principally  cultivated,  Zagury  had  despatched 


360 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


our  guide  on  to  Azamore  before  us,  to  a Jew  in 
town,  in  order  to  engage  him  to  prepare  some  provi: 
against  our  arrival ; for  they  are  so  superstitious,  that  < 
would  not  even  eat  bread  that  had  been  baked  in  any  cj 
but  a Jew’s  oven,  and  received  the  priest’s  blessing  ! 
which,  of  course,  he  has  his  tithe.  Proceeding  forwarj 
about  ten,  A.  M.  we  saw  at  some  distance  on  our 
what  David  and  Elio  told  me  was  the  famous  old  totv 
Mazagan  : stopping  here  to  take  refreshment,  a 1 

number  of  Arab  women  came  from  some  neighbou  j 
douhars,  to  stare  at  me  and  my  dress  : some  of  them ' 
quite  young,  and  Zagury  began  to  rally  them  in  a 
coarse  and  rude  manner,  asking  them  if  they  loved  Cl 
tians,  &c.  upon  which  one  very  old  woman  said  to  1 
“ there  is  Mazagan  ; (pointing  towards  the  distant  tov 
when  that  place  was  taken  from  the  Christians,  I helpe 
cut  off  one  of  their  heads,  and  yet  I love  Christians  b< 
than  the  mean,  cheating,  infidel  Jews.”  Zagury,  not 
ishing  this  retort,  dropped  the  conversation. 

Riding  on  briskly,  we  arrived  at  Azamore  abot 
o’clock,  P.  M.  On  our  approach,  our  Jews  were  obli 
to  dismount,  and  walk  for  about  two  miles  to  pass  a sa 
house,  which  the  Moors  hold  in  high  veneration  : this 
the  fiftieth  saint-house  1 had  seen  since  I left  Swta 
Azamore  is  a town  strongly  walled  in  : it  lies  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  Ormorbear,  one  league  from  its  mou 
it  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  quadrangle,  ant 
about  one  mile  in  circumference  : the  river  washes 
eastern  wall,  while  the  other  sides  are  defended  by  a di 
ditch.  We  did  not  enter  it,  but  from  its  appearance, 
is  an  old-fashioned  Portuguese  town,  badly  built,  ; 
within  and  about  the  walls,  very  dirty.  This  stream  \ 
the  only  one  1 had  yet  passed  on  this  continent,  that 
served  the  name  of  river : it  has  a dangerous  bar  at 
mouth,  which  is  said  to  be  navigable  only  for  vessi 
drawing  six  feet  water  at  high  tides  and  in  smooth  weatht; 
these  may  come  alongside  the  walls  ol  Azamore,  wll 
there  is  a very  neat  water-port  for  the  reception  of  th 
cargoes,  but  it  has  now  no  external  commerce  whateve : 
there  are,  however,  some  large  manufactories  of  Moroc ) 
leather,  and  coarse  earthen  ware,  in  the  suburbs  outsi: 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


361 


n walls.  We  passed  this  river,  which  is  here  about  two 
aidred  yards  wide,  in  a good  boat,  built  after  the  Span- 
sj  manner,  large  and  well  managed  by  expert  hands. 

found  here  a good  shad  fishery  : there  were  ten  large 
les,  and  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  stout  Moors  em- 
>1  yed  in  this  business  at  that  time,  and  in  the  proper 
eson,  which  is  from  the  first  of  January  to  April : they 
each  large  quantities  of  shad,  which  are  much  esteemed 
a his  country,  and  are  sold  at  the  landing  for  about  six 
cts  apiece:  they  are  carried  from  hence  to  Fez,  Me- 
jtnez,  Morocco,  Mogadore,  and  all  the  adjoining  coun- 
r We  remained  on  the  bank  of  this  river  until  dark, 
ting  for  our  provisions,  which  came  at  last,  and  we 
>i:hed  our  tent  under  three  date  trees,  about  one  mile 
r n the  bank.  We  had  bought  some  shad,  which,  when 
anted,  afforded  us  an  excellent  supper,  as  they  were 
ey  fat  and  delicious. 

3n  the  10th,  at  two  o’clock  in  the  morning,  we  started 
r<  n this  place,  and  owing  to  the  darkness,  lost  our  path, 
ri  wandered  about  for  two  hours  before  it  was  found : 
v rode  all  the  day  through  a fine  even  country,  passing 
any  douhars,  and  travelling  as  usual ; and  at  night  pitch- 
tour  tent  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  douhars,  which  I 
111  here  describe,  (having  made  mention  of  them  fre- 
ipntly  before,)  and  this  description  will  answer  for  the 
vole  of  them,  with  little  variation.  On  our  approach  to 
whin  fifty  yards,  we  halted,  and  were  soon  met  by  the 
lief,  for  they  all  have  one  head  man,  whom  they  honour 
) the  title  of  Sheick  : he  welcomed  us  in  very  handsome 
ams  ; invited  us  to  advance  ; pointed  out  a place  which 
vs  the  safest  within  the  douhar  for  our  tent ; and  fur- 
c hed  us  with  milk  and  eggs  gratis,  while  the  Moors 
tlit  accompanied  us  were  plentifully  regaled  with  bread, 

' ter,  and  coos-coo-soo.  This  douhar  was  composed  of 
oe  hundred  and  fifty-four  tents,  pitched  in  the  form  of  a 
llow  square  ; the  tents  being  placed  about  fifty  yards 
art ; an  equal  number  occupying  each  side,  and  at  equal 
(stances — all  made  of  very  coarse  strong  woollen  cloth, 

< the  same  colour,  and  set  up  in  the  same  manner  as 
nse  on  the  desert,  and  all  facing  inward.  Before  each 
tat,  and  at  a very  short  distance  from  it,  all  the  camels. 

46 


f 

362 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


cattle,  goats,  and  asses,  are  made  to  lie  down,  where  !; 
are  taught  to  remain  until  they  are  roused  up  to  be  ini ; 
in  the  morning,  when  the  shepherds  or  herdsmen  c y 
them  out  into  the  open  country  to  feed,  and  return  it 
them  again  at  night-fall.  They  milk  the  mares,  can  < 
cows,  asses,  goats,  and  sheep  ; and  in  order  to  effect 
with  the  two  last  mentioned  animals,  which  are  very  ta  e 
they  divide  the  sheep  and  goats  into  two  rows,  facing  e 
other ; as  soon  as  they  approach  so  as  to  interlock  t i 
necks,  they  are  caught  by  two  ropes  which  are  re 
strung  for  the  purpose,  and  by  this  means  they  are!) 
close  together,  while  the  women  and  girls  go  behind  t 
milk  them  between  their  hind  legs  ; the  lambs  having  |fc 
previously  tied  or  secured  in  a similar  way.  A good  A 
will  yield  a pint  of  milk  in  a morning,  and  a goat  me 
sheep’s  milk  is  reckoned  the  richest  by  the  natives,  bi ' 
preferred  that  of  the  goat  or  the  camel  to  any  of  the  oth  i 
though  asses’  and  mare’s  milk  is  very  rich  and  go 
They  make  butter  by  putting  the  new  milk  into  a g< 
skin,  the  hair  on  the  inside  ; the  butter  is  of  cours  : 
little  hairy,  but  they  can  pick  it  clean  with  their  fingA 
and  they  generally  have  white-haired  goat-skins  for  chui , 
The  Arabs  who  inhabit  exclusively  these  douhars,  are  i 
tremely  hospitable,  and  not  only  furnish  the  traveller  \u 
the  best  they  have  to  eat  and  drink,  but  also  set  a wa 
over  his  tent  and  baggage,  which  they  strictly  take  c 
of : the  Sheieks  themselves  are  responsible  for  every  ai 
cle  that  may  be  missing  in  the  morning,  and  which  if  i 
immediately  found,  they  pay  the  stranger  his  own  price 
it  in  money  without  hesitation.  Thus  the  Moorish  a 
Arab  travellers  can  pass  from  one  end  of  the  empire  to  t 
other  without  expense,  and  at  their  leisure,  and  trans: 
their  commercial  business  in  a cheap  way,  only  buyi 
the  barley  for  their  beasts  which  carry  their  burdens  wh 
they  travel  on  mules  or  horses,  being  obliged  to  feed  the 
on  barley  and  straw  ; but  when  they  use  camels,  which 
by  far  the  most  common  method,  these  hardy  beasts  li 
on  the  herbage  and  shrubbery  which  they  nip  passii 
along  the  road,  taking  a bite  now  and  then  as  they  co: 
tinue  walking,  and  as  soon  as  they  stop,  their  two  fo 
legs  are  tied  within  a foot  of  each  other,  and  they  a 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


36S 


med  out  to  feed.  Without  this  precaution,  the  camel 
: such  a wandering  creature,  not  unlike  his  Arab  master 
ii  that  respect,  that  be  the  herbage  ever  so  good  and 
p ntiful  where  he  is  turned  out,  he  is  continually  restless, 
ii  keeps  moving  on,  so  that  in  the  course  of  an  hour  or 
; o he  will  stray  many  miles  from  the  place  where  he  was 
a;t  turned  loose. 

On  the  11th,  at  daybreak,  we  left  this  douhar,  and 
a^ceeded  over  a smooth  beautiful  plain,  every  where 
Aered  with  fields  of  grain  or  grass  and  flowering  shrubs, 
with  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  camels,  asses,  and  flocks 
j sheep  and  goats;  while  the  .road,  or  rather  foot-path, 
'Jr  such  they  all  are  in  this  country,)  was  covered  with 
ded  camels  travelling  each  way  to  and  from  Darlbeda, 
1 at  about  8 o’clock,  A.  M.  we  reached  that  city.  Dari- 
b|da  is  a walled  town  of  about  two  miles  in  circumfer- 
epe,  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a broad  bay  ; its  port  is 
tcerably  good  for  landing  cargoes,  although  the  bay  where 
VBsels  lie  is  very  rocky,  and  can  only  be  approached  with 
32‘ety  in  the  summer  months  and  in  mild  weather.  Large 
qlantities  of  wheat  were  formerly  shipped  at  this  port  for 
bain  and  Portugal.  1 peeped  into  it  for  a few  minutes  ; 
tis  much  on  the  decay  ; the  houses,  which  are  built 
efiefly  of  stone  and  clay,  as  well  as  the  walls,  are  falling 
it'wn  in  every  direction,  and  even  the  gateway  is  iju  a tot* 
t<ing  condition  : it  is  a very  dirty  place  : the  houses  are 
flm  one  to  three  stories  high,  and  the  street?  very  nar- 
rw there  still  remains  an  open  aopueduct,  that  used  to 
cjnvey  water  for  a distance  of  several  miles  into  this  town  ; 
is  in  good  repair,  being  built  of  stone  and  lime  ; the 
\:iter  runs  in  it  to  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  wall, 
•here  it  has  been  cut  off  for  the  convenience  of  roads  : 
tlis  the  destructive  hands  of  the  Moors  are  employed  in 
1 irring  and  spoiling  even  their  own  town,  which  mu  St 
•on  become  no  better  than  a heap  of  ruins. 

iWe  passed  Darlbeda,  and  came  to  Afldallah,  a town 
ilt  by  Sidi  Mohammed  : this  town  is  enclosed  by  a tol- 
able  mud  and  stone  wall,  and  is  situated  about  one  mile 
bm  the  sea.  The  whole  coast  from  Darlbeda  to  far  be- 
>nd  Afldallah,  is  lined  with  huge  heaps  of  beach  sand 


364 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


hove  up  by  the  almost  constant  trade  winds,  blowing  j 
rect  on  shore. 

Afidallah  stands  on  a beautiful  plain  : it  was  built » 
the  purpose  of  receiving  and  storing  the  large  quanti : 
of  wheat  and  barley  that  usually  grew  near  its  site  ; | 
its  harbour,  only  one  mile  distant  from  it,  is  sheltered j 
a long  and  narrow  island,  within  which  vessels  of  a sr  I 
size  can  anchor,  and  be  tolerably  safe.  This  is  said,  | 
Mohammed,  one  of  our  muleteers,  and  an  old  sailor, ) 
be  by  far  the  safest  open  harbour  in  the  empire  during  s 
winter  months  ; but  the  landing  is  bad,  and  can  only 
effected  in  light  winds  and  good  weather.  Large  qua 
ties  of  wheat,  barley,  big  acorns,  fruit,  &c.  were  ship 
from  Afidallah  during  the  reign  of  Sidi  Mohammed,  ] 
a part  of  the  present  reign  ; but  Muley  Soliman,  : 
present  Sultan,  has  of  late  become  so  bigoted,  that  : 
thinks,  or  pretends  it  is  a sin  for  his  subjects  to  trade  \b 
•the  Christians  ; he  has,  therefore,  forbid  the  exportat  i 
of  almost  all  the  articles  of  commerce,  and  rendered, 
this  means,  his  people  poor;  ruined  most  of  his  tow, 
and  involved  himself  in  many  broils  with  his  subjei, 
while  he  is  straining  every  nerve  to  take  away  the  li 
remains  of  their  property,  in  contributions  and  prese , 
extorted  from  them  by  rapacious  officers  appointed  for  : 
purpose.  The  goods  for  shipping  were  carried  from  A 
dallah  on  camels,  across  the  sand  hills  that  shelter  the  to  i 
from  the  violent  sea-gales.  This  place  is  about  six  ht 
dred  yards  square,  flanked  by  four  square  forts  joined 
each  corner,  and  so  constructed  as  to  be  able  to  rake  f 
whole  length  of  the  wall  on  the  outside,  with  cannon  a 
musketry. 

We  passed  on,  and  pitched  our  tent  at  night  witl 
the  walls  of  an  old  town  called  Sebilah ; there  is 
house  standing  in  it,  except  a part  of  a large  mosque,  a 
a tall  well-built  tower,  though  it  was  once  a consideral 
place.  Within  these  walls,  in  one  corner,  was  a lar 
garden,  well  stocked  with  vegetables,  and  about  a hu 
dred  tents  were  pitched,  as  if  in  the  open  field  ; so  ’ 
pitched  our  tent  near  the  walls  of  the  mosque.  The 
were  several  women  here  that  wanted  medicines,  a 
though  I had  none  to  give  them,  yet  my  mere  advit 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


365 


midi  was  thought  important,  procured  milk  and  eggs 
i ficient  for  our  suppers.  Soon  after  sunset,  all  the  flocks 
ul  cattle  belonging  to  the  inhabitants  were  driven  within 
1 walls,  and  disposed  of  as  in  the  common  douhars, 
a en  the  stout  gate  was  shut  and  strongly  barred.  Many 
rvellers  arrived  in  the  evening,  and  wished  to  enter,  but 
and  no  admittance,  and  they  took  up  their  lodgings 
Djtside  of  the  walls. 

January  the  12th,  at  daylight,  our  soldier  had  the  gate 
jlened,  and  we  went  forward  : there  were  outside  of  the 
gjte  several  large  droves  of  camels  with  their  owners, 
tiich  had  put  up  there  in  the  night — they  were  princi- 
j ly  loaded  with  sacks  of  salt  or  barley,  and  going  to- 
. rds  Rhabat.  We  rode  on  fast,  and  passed  three  con- 
verable  streams,  which  the  Moors  call  rivers,  and  say 
i y are  not  fordable  in  the  rainy  season  ; but  we  got  over 
'thout  difficulty,  being  then  only  brooks  : the  country 
ivs  level  and  well  cultivated,  and  we  passed  innumerable 
dpves  of  light  and  loaded  camels,  mules,  and  asses. 

At  about  eight  o’clock,  A.  M.  we  saw  a high  tower  east 
: us,  which  stands  at  the  head  of  the  aqueduct  that  con- 
• vs  water  to  Rhabat ; and  at  about  three,  P.  M.  we  came 
t the  outer  wall  of  that  city,  which  stands  half  a mile 
fj>m  the  main  wall,  and  encloses  a great  number  of  fine 
erdens  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  besides  some  wheat  fields : 
ijextends  from  the  palace  (which  is  spacious,  and  situ- 
ed  on  the  left  upon  the  bank  of  the  sea  between  the 
iter  and  main  walls)  round  to  the  river  eastward  of  the 
ty  : here  the  Jews  were  obliged  to  dismount  before  they 
>ulcl  enter  the  town,  and  there  I left  them,  and  proceeded 
ith  my  guard,  followed  by  my  muleteer  into  the  city, 
iy  friend  Mr.  Willshire,  had  given  me  an  introductory 
tter  to  Mr.  Abouderham,  the  English  Vice  Consul  at 
habat,  and  we  proceeded  directly  to  his  house,  which  is 
tuatecl  in  the  principal  town.  On  my  arrival,  I was  re- 
vived by  that  gentleman  with  every  mark  of  politeness 
id  respect  I could  wish  : he  furnished  me  with  a room 
id  every  thing  I needed  for  my  comfort.  The  next  day 
;eing  the  Jews’  Sabbath,  I had  time  to  visit  different 
arts  of  the  city,  and  the  Jews’  town,  or  Millah. 

Rhabat  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Beregreb — 


366 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


on  its  left  bank,  within  a mile  of  the  sea  ; it  is  defen  • 
on  the  south  by  a double  wall  and  some  batteries  of  i 
non  ; on  the  west,  facing  the  sea,  by  a very  strong  < 
tress,  and  along  the  river  on  the  north,  by  very  high 
steep  cliffs,  a wall,  and  a number  of  strong  batteries, 
should  compute  the  circumference  of  the  outer  walls  at 
miles,  but  the  inner  one  not  more  than  three. 

The  city  is  situated  on  uneven  ground  ; is  very  ' 
built  for  a Moorish  town,  though  the  streets  are  narr 
crooked  and  dirty  ; yet  the  houses  in  general  are  in  g 
repair,  and  two  stories  high,  built  of  stone  and  lime  mj 
tar,  and  flat  roofed,  with  an  inner  court ; a few  wiod< 
next  the  streets,  which  are  only  air  holes,  and  secu 
with  wooden  shutters  and  grates,  without  glass.  Th : 
are  in  this  city  ten  mosques  of  different  heights  and  shapi : 
it  is  the  largest  sea-port  town  in  the  Moorish  dominio, 
though  at  present  the  bar  at  the  river’s  mouths  is 
heaped  up  with  sand,  as  only  to  admit  of  vessels  drawi 
six  feet  water,  and  yet  the  tide  rises  within  it  about 
feet,  and  runs  very  rapidly.  The  Millah,  or  Jews’  tov 
is  walled  in  separately,  to  prevent  the  Jews  from  mixir 
with  and  defiling  the  Moors,  and  that  they  may  me 
easily  be  kept  in  subjection  with  the  aid  of  the  bastinac 
This  Millah  has  been  built  only  about  six  years  ; has  i> 
one  gate,  which  is  guarded  and  kept  by  Moors  ; and  th< 
are  some  very  good  houses  in  it.  It  is  said  to  conta 
eight  thousand  Jews,  who  are  (for  the  most  part)  ve 
poor,  miserable,'  and  depraved,  and  live  in  the  most  d 
graded  condition:  they  worship  in  twelve  rooms  calf 
synagogues,  and  I was  told  that  nearly  one  half  of  tl 
male  inhabitants  were  priests. 

Rnabat  is  very  well  peopled  : the  whole  number  of  : 
inhabitants  is  computed  by  Mr.  Abouderham  to  exce< 
sixty  thousand.  Many  of  the  Moors  here  are  rich,  ai 
live  in  great  luxury,  keeping  large  seraglios  of  womc 
and  having  beautiful  gardens.  Vast  quantities  of  baick 
and  other  woollen  and  cotton  cloths,  are  here  fabricate! 
and  great  quantities  of  sole  and  Morocco  leather,  an 
coarse  earthen  ware,  such  as  pots,  bowls,  jars,  &c-  ar 
also  manufactured  in  this  city.  It  carries  on  a brisk  inlan 
trade,  and  the  Moorish  inhabitants  seem  to  be  more  ciy. 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO* 


367 


isd  than  in  any  other  town  I passed  through.  Here  is 
I principal  navy-yard  of  the  emperor,  where  his  ships 
ti,  built ; for  the  Moors  have  none  for  commerce.  Here 
vs  one  new  frigate  lying  by  the  walls,  partly  fitted  ; she 
neared  to  be  about  five  hundred  tons  burden ; was 
nrced  for  32  guns,  and  the  Moors  said  she  would  be 
rejdy  to  go  round  to  Laresch,  where  their  ships  of  war 
r fitted  out,  in  two  or  three  months  : to  get  them  over 
h bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  they  are  obliged  to  go 
>i  perfectly  light ; to  buoy  them  up  as  much  as  possi- 
»ii,  and  lay  them  sideways  on  the  bar,  at  high  tide,  and 
n mild  weather,  where  they  are  steadied  by  means  of 
ties  and  anchors,  until  the  yielding  sand  is  washed 
v.y,  and  they  are  forced  over  by  the  power  of  the  ebb 
ic,  which  runs  like  a mill-race, 
lhabat  is  supplied  with  water  by  a considerable  stream 
into  the  city  by  means  of  an  old  fashioned  aqueduct 
ci  the  south,  that  is  four  or  five  leagues  in  length  : the 
ijeduct  was  either  built  or  thoroughly  repaired  by  the 
k and  liberal  emperor  Sidi  Mohammed.  I wished  to 
ii  the  town  of  Sallee,  so  famous  in  history  for  its  pira~ 
k on  the  ocean,  situated  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
i directly  opposite  Rhabat,  but  I was  dissuaded  from 
ining  the  attempt,  by  Mr.  Abouderham  and  my  guide, 
i»  said  that  the  whole  people  of  Sallee  still  retained 
»r  ancient  pride,  prejudices,  and  natural  ferocity  : that 
oChristian,  or  even  a Barbary  Jew  in  a Christian  dress, 
old  enter  their  walls  if  he  was  ever  so  well  guarded  by 
erial  soldiers,  without  being  in  imminent  danger  of 
)aig  his  life.  Mr.  Abouderham  said  he  had  visited  it 
v;e  ; that  it  contained  about  forty  thousand  fierce  and 
Eighty  Moors,  and  four  thousand  miserable  Jews, 


368 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Description  of  a horrid  show  of  two  venomous  serpent  - 

Sets  out  from  Rhabat — Of  Sallee , Marmora , Laresc  . 

Spanish  Missionaries — Moorish  Navy — Arrival  at  rl  t 

gier. 

On  Sunday,  the  14th  January,  1816,  being  anxiou  i 
get  forward  on  my  journey,  I went  into  the  Jews’  towi  ( 
make  the  necessary  preparations  ; for  I intended  to  p 
ceed  without  my  Jew’s  company,  whom  I had  found  |i 
to  be  deceitful  and  dishonest,  having  already  manoeuvc 
me  out  of  most  of  my  money.  The  soldier  and  mule  i 
went  along  with  me  : this  muleteer,  as  I before  obseri  I 
had  been  a sailor  ; had  visited  Spain  and  Portugal,  j 
spoke  the  Spanish  language  so  that  I could  understi 
him  ; his  name  was  Mohammed.  Soon  after  our  enteS 
into  the  Millah,  we  saw  a concourse  of  people,  consis } 
of  Moors  and  Jews,  crowding  about  one  of  the  sin  ■ 
storied  houses,  which  stood  alone.  Going  near  it,  I , 
quired  the  cause  of  this  assemblage,  and  was  inforr  ; 
that  a couple  of  that  kind  of  Moors,  called  serpent  eat  i 
were  about  to  amuse  the  Moors  and  Jews  with  a sigh  ) 
two  of  the  most  venomous  serpents  on  earth  ; toget; 
with  their  manner  of  attacking  the  human  species:  ;!jt 
that  each  one  who  chose  to  see  the  exhibition  through  j< 
windows,  (for  it  was  to  take  place  in  that  room,)  must  ; 
half  a dollar.  Being  desirous  of  having  a look,  I offec 
a dollar  for  a station  at  a window  ; but  all  the  winch : 
were  already  occupied,  and  the  places  paid  for.  1 
guard,  observing  my  disappointment,  asked  me  i 
wished  for  a birth  ? which  1 answered  by  putting  two  d • 
lars  into  his  hand  : whereupon  he  called  out  to  the  Je  s 
at  one  of  the  windows  to  clear  a place  for  elTibib  del  Suit' 
(The  Sultan’s  doctor.)  Those,  however,  who  had  p: 
their  money,  not  liking  to  lose  their  places,  were  unwill  l 
to  move  : upon  which  my  guard  brushed  them  away  v t 
his  big  cane  without  ceremony  ; giving  me  a whole  w 
dow  to  myself,  saying  he  would  keep  guard  ; and  I look  J 
into  the  room  without  interruption  : it  was  about  tvve:f 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


365 


visit  long,  and  fifteen  feet  broad,  paved  with  tiles,  and 
ilstered  within.  The  windows  had  also  been  secured  by 
i additional  grating  made  of  wire,  in  such  a manner  as 
tcbender  it  impossible  for  the  serpents  to  escape  from  the 
cm  : it  had  but  one  door,  and  that  had  a hole  cut  through 
t,jsix  or  eight  inches  square ; this  hole  was  also  secured 
}x  grating.  In  the  room  stood  two  men  who  appeared 
me  Arabs,  with  long  bushy  hair  and  beards ; and  I 
/;  told  they  were  a particular  race  of  men  that  could 
rm  serpents.  A wooden  box,  about  four  feet  long 
n two  feet  wide,  was  placed  near  the  door,  with  a string 
usned  to  a slide  at  one  end  of  it : this  string  went 
< 'Ugh  a hole  in  the  door.  The  two  serpent- eaters  were 
r .sed  in  haicks  only,  and  those  very  small  ones.  After 
ic  had  gone  through  with  their  religious  ceremonies 
net  devoutly,  they  appeared  to  take  an  eternal  farewell 
ach  other  : this  done,  one  of  them  retired  from  the 
jcjti,  and  shut  the  door  tight  after  him.  The  Arab 
n in  seemed  to  be  in  dreadful  distress  : I could  observe 
sieart  throb  and  his  bosom  heave  most  violently  ; and 
ried  out  very  loudly,  “ Allah  houakibar  1”  three  times, 
1th  is,  as  1 understood  it,  “ God  have  mercy  upon 
te”  The  Arab  was  at  the  farthest  end  of  the  room  : 
jiat  instant  the  cage  was  opened,  and  a serpent  crept 
a slowly  ; he  was  about  four  feet  long,  and  eight  inches 
circumference;  his  colours  were  the  most  beautiful  in 
lire,  being  bright,  and  variegated  with  deep  yellow,  a 
ole,  a cream  colour,  black  and  brown  spotted,  &c„ 
>oon  as  he  saw  the  Arab  in  the  room,  his  eyes,  which 
e;  small  and  green,  kindled  as  with  fire  : he  erected 
i self  in  a second,  his  head  two  feet  high,  and  darting 
ihe  defenceless  Arab,  seized  him  between  the  folds  of 
laick,  just  above  his  right  hip  bone,  hissing  most  hor- 
br:  the  Arab  gave  a horrid  shriek,  when  another  ser- 
: came  out  of  the  cage.  This  last  was  black,  very 
ring,  and  appeared  to  be  seven  or  eight  feet  long,  but 
rmore  than  twro  inches  in  diameter  : as  soon  as  he  had 
tred  the  cage,  he  cast  his  red  fiery  eyes  on  his  intended 
c m,  thrust  out  his  forked  tongue,  threw  himself  into 
mnd  coil,  erected  his  head,  which  was  in  the  centre  of 
a coil,  three  feet  from  the  floor,  flattening  out  the  skin. 

47 


370 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


above  his  head  and  eyes  in  the  form  and  nearly  of  the  « < 
of  a human  heart ; and,  springing  like  lightning  on  < 
Arab,  struck  its  fangs  into  his  neck, , near  the  jugij 
vein,  while  his  tail  and  body  flew  round  his  neck  c 
arms  in  two  or  three  folds.  The  Arab  set  up  the  n j 
hideous  and  piteous  yelling,  foamed  and  frothed  at 
mouth,  grasping  the  folds  of  the  serpent,  which  w< 
round  his  arms,  with  his  right  hand,  and  seemed  to  b : 
the  greatest  agony — striving  to  tear  the  reptile  from  aro  j( 
his  neck,  while  with  his  left  he  seized  hold  of  it  near 
head,  but  could  not  break  its  hold  : by  this  time,  the  o 
had  twined  itself  around  his  legs,  and  kept  biting 
around  the  other  parts  of  his  body,  making  appare 
deep  incisions : the  blood,  issuing  from  every  woi : 
both  in  his  neck  and  body,  streamed  all  over  his  h; 
and  skin.  My  blood  was  chilled  in  my  veins  with  hoi 
at  this  sight,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  my  legs  would  ;i 
port  my  frame.  Notwithstanding  the  Arab’s  greatest ; 
ertions  to  tear  away  the  serpents  with  his  hands,  i 
twined  themselves  still  tighter,  stopped  his  breath,  ant! 
fell  to  the  floor,  where  he  continued  for  a moment, 
in  the  most  inconceivable  agony,  rolling  over,  and  co  i 
ing  every  part  of  his  body  with  his  own  blood  and  fi! 
until  he  ceased  to  move,  and  appeared  to  have  expif 
In  his  last  struggle  he  had  wounded  the  black  serpent  t 
his  teeth,  as  it  was  striving,  as  it  were,  to  force  its  li 
into  his  mouth  ; which  wound  seemed  to  increase  its  r it 
At  this  instant,  I heard  the  shrill  sound  of  a whistle ; i 
looking  towards  the  door,  saw  the  other  Arab  applyir 
call  to  his  mouth  : the  serpents  listened  to  the  mu  f 
their  Jury  seemed  to  forsake  them  by  degrees;  they  ■ 
engaged  the  mselves  leisurely  from  the  apparently  lift  f 
carcass  ; and  creeping  towards  the  cage,  they  soon  enti  t 
it,  and  were  immediately  fastened  in.  The  door  of 
apartment  was  now  opened,  and  he  without  ran  to  a: 
his  companion  : lie  had  a phial  of  blackish  liquor  in 
hand,  and  an  iron  chisel  in  the  other  : finding  the  teet 
his  companion  set,  he  thrust  in  the  chisel,  pried  tl 
open,  and  then  poured  a little  of  the  liquor  into 
mouth  ; and  holding  the  lips  together,  applied  his  me 
to  the  dead  man’s  nose,  and  filled  his  lungs  with  air  :1 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


O / i 

xt  anointed  his  numerous  wounds  with  a little  of  the 
5,-ne  liquid  ; and  yet  no  sign  of  life  appeared.  I thought 
h was  dead  in  earnest ; his  neck  and  veins  were  exceed- 
ig]y  swollen  ; when  his  comrade,  taking  up  the  lifeless 
ti'.nk  in  his  arms,  brought  it  out  into  the  open  air,  and 
ntinued  the  operation  of  blowing  for  several  minutes, 
biore  a sign  of  life  appeared  : at  length  he  gasped,  and 
aer  a time  recovered  so  far  as  to  be  able  to  speak.  The 
s ellings  on  his  neck,  body,  and  legs,  gradually  subsided, 
they  continued  washing  the  wounds  with  clear  cold 
v.ter,  and  a sponge,  and  applying  the  black  liquor  occa- 
-iinallv  : a clean  haick  was  wrapped  about  him,  but  his 
sjength  seemed  so  far  exhausted,  that  he  could  not  sup- 
rt  himself  standing;  so  his  comrade  laid  him  on  the 
ound  by  a Avail,  where  he  sunk  into  a sleep.  This 
ehibition  lasted  for  about  a quarter  of  an  hour  from  the 
the  the  serpents  Avere  let  loose,  until  they  Avere  called 
and  it  Avas  more  than  an  hour  from  that  time  before 
h could  speak.  I thought  that  I could  discover  that  the 
I isonous  kings  had  been  pulled  out  of  these  formidable 
■pents’  jaws,  and  mentioned  that  circumstance  to  the 
smvman,  Avho  said  that  they  had  indeed  been  extracted  ; 
ad  Avhen  I wished  to  know  how  swellings  on  his  neck 
id  other  parts  could  be  assumed,  he  assured  me,  that 
t augh  their  deadly  fangs  were  out,  yet  that  the  poisonous 
c.ality  of  their  breath  and  spittle  would  cause  the  death 
c those  they  attack  : that  after  a bite  from  either  of  these 
srpents,  no  man  could  exist  longer  than  fifteen  minutes, 
; d that  there  was  no  remedy  for  any  but  those  Avho  were 
. dowed  by  the  Almighty  Avith  power  to  charm  and  to 
lanage  them,  and  that  he  and  his  associate  were  of  that 
woured  number.  The  Moors  and  Arabs  call  the  thick 
; d beautiful  serpent  El  Ejfah , and  the  long  black  and 
hart-headed  one  El  Buschkah.  I afterwards  saw  en- 
;avings  of.  these  two  serpents  in  Jackson's  Morocco , 
'hich  are  very  correct  resemblances  : they  are  said  to  be 
ry  numerous  on  and  about  the  south  foot  of  the  Atlas 
ountains,  and  border  of  the  desert,  where  these  were 
ught  when  young,  and  where  they  often  attack  and  de- 
:roy  both  men  and  beasts.  The  Effah’s  bite  is  said  to  be 
; curable,  and  its  poison  so  subtile  as  to  cause  a man’s 


372 


CAPTAIN  RILEY'S  NARRATIVE, 


death  in  fifteen  minutes.  When  I saw  the  Effah,  it  brou  i 
to  my  mind  the  story  of  the  fiery  serpents  that  bit  ; 
children  of  Israel  in  the  deserts  of  Arabia,  near  Mo  i 
Hor,  as  recorded  in  the  21st  chapter  of  the  Book  of  Nu . 
bers  ; merely  because  the  Effah  resembled  in  appeara  t 
a brazen  serpent ; the  two  serpent-eaters  said  they  cal 
from  Egypt  about  three  years  ago. 

This  exhibition  of  serpents,  (the  first,  I was  told,  I 
the  kind  that  had  ever  taken  place  at  Rhabat,)  and  <: 
preparations,  detained  us  the  whole  day  ; however,  I ! 1 
made  all  the  necessary  arrangements,  got  the  tent,  pj. 
visions,  &c.  in  order  to  be  ready  for  a start  the  next  me  ■ 
ing,  and  on  January  the  15th,  very  early,  I took  ■ 
leave  of  Mr.  Abouderham,  who,  though  a Jew,  was  in. 
ertheless  a man  of  feeling,  and  much  of  a gentleman  : j 
is  a native  of  Leghorn,  had  received  a good  education,  ;| 
spoke  the  French  language  fluently. 

We  crossed  the  river,  which  is  here  about  half  a nil 
wide,  and  proceeded  towards  the  walls  of  Sallee  : 
river  has  entirely  left  the  Sallee  side,  which  is  now  fil 
up  with  sand  and  mud,  leaving  the  town  nearly  a n : 
from  the  water : there  were  still  to  be  seen  some  remc 
of  its  ancient  docks,  and  wrecks  of  vessels.  I looked  1 
tentively  at  Sallee,  in  passing  its  walls,  which  are  h i 
and  strong,  built  of  stone,  and  well  cemented  ; they  If 
been  repaired  lately,  and  are  flanked  by  many  circi 1 
and  square  towers,  on  which  about  two  hundred  pieil 
of  cannon  are  still  mounted,  of  all  calibers  ; and  it  jjl 
peared  that  it  must  have  formerly  been  mounted  w 
several  hundred  pieces  more.  Near  its  walls,  on  the  et 
north,  and  west  sides,  are  beautiful  gardens  that  app< 
to  be  extremely  fertile,  well  laid  out,  and  cultivate 
great  numbers  of  orange,  lemon  and  sweet  lemon  tre 
were  bending  under  their  loads  of  rich  yellow  fruit : hi 
dreds  of  fig,  pomegranate,  almond,  and  other  fruit-tre 
were  now  leafless,  but  budding  forth,  and  thus  promisi 
abundance  in  their  season.  Many  of  the  gardens  are 
great  extent,  and  planted  with  the  cotton-tree,  which 
small,  and  produces  cotton  inferior  to  the  American,  call 
Georgia  Upland,  and  only  in  small  quantities. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  road,  we  came  to  the  aqt 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


373 


aft  which  supplies  Sallee  with  fresh  water : this  aque- 
it  serves  as  an  outer  wall  to  the  city  on  the  north  ; it 
s fearly  a mile  from  it,  and  about  thirty  feet  high  where 
classed  through  it : here  are  three  large  arches  resem- 
ig  gateways,  and  marks  are  still  to  be  seen,  where  gates 
eb  once  hung  : the  wall  is  eight  or  ten  feet  in  thick- 
£:,  and  the  aqueduct  appears  to  be  about  four  miles  in 
nth.  The  canal  for  conducting  the  water  is  near  the 
j but  uncovered  ; this  aqueduct  is  said  to  have  been 
u|it  by  the  Romans  ; it  is  formed  of  large  hewn  stones, 
i is  extremely  solid. 

Ve  travelled  on  through  a fine  champaign  country, 
tjy  where  cultivated,  until  two,  P.  M.  when  we  saw  on 
i left,  and  passed  a lake  of  fresh  water,  about  two 
i s in  length,  and  half  a mile  in  breadth  : this  was  the 
. lake,  or  indeed  pond,  I had  ever  seen  in  this  country  ; 
Kjsoon  afterwards  we  arrived  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
tyiah.  On  the  left  bank  of  this  river,  near  its  mouth, 
ads,  though  mostly  in  ruins,  the  ancient  Portuguese 
wn  and  fortress  of  Mamora  ; the  fortress  is  situated  on 
Ugh  hill  that  overlooks  the  surrounding  country,  com- 
x ds  the  ruins  of  the  town,  and  is  now  garrisoned  by 
iut  three  hundred  black  troops.  The  town  was  built 
de  along  the  brink  of  the  river,  and  its  northern  wall 
's  washed  by  every  tide  ; and  though  very  old,  has  not 
©sustained  much  injury.  The  river  enters  the  sea  over 
hr  in  a N.  W.  direction  : the  lower  wall  has  an  excel- 
] circular  battery,  built  of  large  hewn  stone,  and  was 
ajulated  for  mounting  thirty  heavy  guns  for  the  defence 
fhe  harbour;  though  now  dismantled.  This  town 
/;l  is  about  half  a mile  in  length  along  the  river,  and  the 
.us  two  hundred  yards  in  breadth  ; the  place  was  once 
rty  strongly  walled  in  on  the  land  side,  but  this  wall  is 
w in  ruins  : not  a soul  inhabits  this  town  at  present, 
ife  some  of  my  former  opinions  were  confirmed  ; for  it 
s ertain  that  the  sea  has  receded  from  this  coast : the  evi- 
kt  marks  of  the  water  high  on  this  wall,  and  on  the 
-ait  of  land  near  which  the  town  stands,  that  must  from 
pearance  have  been  worn  in  by  the  dashing  of  the  sea, 
c ether  with  the  situation  of  the  present  bar,  prove  to  an 
Vlierver,  without  any  possibility  of  doubt,  that  the  ocean 


374 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


has  receded  since  this  place  was  built,  for  more  thill 
mile  distance,  and  that  its  perpendicular  height  has  \ 
creased  at  least  fifteen  feet  since  that  period.  I do ; 
pretend  to  account  for  this  fact,  but  leave  it  to  be  ; 
plained  by  philosophers. 

We  were  to  cross  this  river  in  a good  boat  that  i 
over  fifteen  camels  with  their  loads  at  a trip  ; but  t • 
were  on  the  bank,  waiting  for  their  turns  to  cross,  at  1 ■ 
five  hundred  loaded  camels,  besides  mules  and  at ; 
chiefly  with  burdens  of  wheat  and  barley,  going  01 
Tangier  and  Tetuan,  'where  all  kinds  of  bread-stuffs  \ 
said  to  be  very  scarce  and  dear.  I told  my  soldier  i 
it  was  necessary  to  inform  the  boatman  that  as  I was  jj| 
emperor’s  surgeon,  and  himself  an  Alcayd,  that  we  c< 
not  wait,  but  must  pass  over  immediately,  for  the  v 
blew  fresh  from  the  S.  W.  and  they  had  but  one  L 
which  could  not  make  above  six  trips  in  a day  ; an  i 
would  not  be  our  turn,  from  the  then  appearances,  in  , 
than  a week  : this,  with  an  .offer  of  two  dollars  to  i 
boatman,  had  the  desired  effect,  and  we  were  ferried  < 
with  the  second  boat-load,  though  not  without  muefi 
position  and  dispute  between  my  guard  and  those 
were  waiting  before  us,  and  which  was  only  settled  by  i 
interference  of  the  black  garrison  ; for  my  guide  had 
address  to  persuade  them  that  he  was  indeed  an  AlcJ 
and  I the  Sultan’s  doctor.  After  crossing  the  river,  < 
mounted  the  sand  hills,  and  at  10,  P.  M.  pitched  our  i 
in  the  midst  of  a douhar,  where  we  got  some  milk  I 
eggs  for  our  money. 

Tuesday,  the  16th,  we  started  very  early  : it  had  rai : 
very  hard  with  heavy  squalls  of  wind  most  part  of 
preceding  night,  but  my  tent,  being  sound,  kept  oft'  i 
storm  : it  was  now  clear  and  serene  ; nearly  the  vvl  i 
face  of  the  ground  was  covered  with  violet  and  p 
coloured  flowers,  not  more  than  an  inch  or  two  in  heit 
which  seemed  to  have  sprung  up  during  the  night,  anc 
the  sun  exhaled  the  dews  from  around  them,  the  fresh 
of  the  morning  was  filled  with  the  most  delightful  1 
grance.'  The  country  on  our  right  was  a low  morass,  pas 
covered  with  water,  which  soon  grew  into  a lake  of  c 
siderable  breadth.  W e travelled,  during  the  whole  d 


TRAVFXS  IN  MOROCCO- 


375 


eg  its  left  margin  : its  surface  was  spotted  over  with 
mmerable  wild  ducks  and  other  aquatic  birds,  which 
) e of  the  inhabitants  were  shooting  at.  In  lieu  of  boats 
k use  a kind  of  catamaran , which  is  made  by  lashing 
ue  small  palm  tree  logs  together  by  means  of  cords 
nale  of  the  bark  of  this  useful  tree  ; they  have  a crotched 
i c set  up  near  one  end  of  their  float  for  a rest  to  their 
u's,  and  instead  of  oars,  use  long  poles  to  force  it  along  : 

I n the  gunner  gets  on  his  raft,  he  leaves  his  haick  be- 
lli him  for  fear  of  wetting  it,  and  shoves  out  entirety 
sued  : their  guns  are  very  long  and  clumsy,  with  Moor- 
1 locks  ; so  that  mode  of  fowling  supplies  them  witlr 
i little  game,  though  the  lake  is  nearly  covered  with  it. 
ffe  sight  of  this  catamaran  brought  to  my  mind  those 
t ie  use  of  in  the  Atlantic  ocean  along  the  coast  of  Bra- 
i and  in  some  other  parts  of  the  world  : the  fishermen 
r those  coasts  form  a raft  by  laying  three  rough  logs 
ngside  of  one  another,  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  pin- 
tig  them  together  with  wooden  tree  nails;  they  then 
>lbe  two  more  logs  partly  on  the  upper  side  of  the  exte- 
k logs,  and  pin  them  on  fast ; sharpen  the  two  ends  of 
1 the  logs,  and  the  float  is  finished.  To  make  it  man- 
gable,  they  raise  a four-legged  bench , in  it,  near  the 
/Are,  which  serves  to  steady  a mast,  on  which  they  hoist 
>houlder-of-mutton  sail,  and  go  out  to  sea.  1 have 
;qn  them  twentv  leagues  from  land.  These  boats  are 
vfectly  safe,  for  they  can  neither  leak,  upset,  nor  foun- 
f , and  sail  remarkably  fast;  and  are  steered  with  a stout 
); . 

There  are  several  islands  in  this  lake,  on  one  of  which 
ire  is  a very  spacious  sanctuary,  many  fruit-trees,  and 
sferal  apparently  good  gardens.  Since  leaving  Darlbeda, 
V:  had  seen  no  high  land,  only  moderate  acclivities,  no 
rare  than  to  make  it  agreeable  to  the  cultivator.  This 
aernoon  we  discovered  the  ridge  of  mountains  which  lie 
! hind  Fez  and  Miquinez,  stretching  from  the  Atlas  to 
t:p  straits  of  Gibraltar,  and  forming  one  of  the  far-famed 
1 lars  of  Hercules.  At  first  they  were  scarcely  visible  in 
ty  distant  horizon,  and  appeared  like  the  tops  of  high 
l ands,  when  approaching  them  on  the  ocean  : not  a tree 
■ bush  of  any  magnitude  had  we  seen  for  several  days, 


376 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


except  the  fig,  palm,  or  other  fruit-trees,  which  ; 
generally  planted  in  clusters,  or  in  gardens  near  the  to'  i 
at  night  we  pitched  our  tent  at  a douhar  near  the  borcj 
the  lake. 

Wednesday,  January  the  17th,  we  started  early,] 
Went  down  the  bank  near  the  sea,  to  pass  round  the  fo  i 
outlet  of  this  lake,  which  was  now  dammed  with  sea- 
very  high  ; and  on  the  sides  of  the  bank  which  for  j 
the  outlet,  stood  four  saint- houses,  nearly  covered  up 
sand-drifts.  Continuing  our  journey  until  about  n 
we  began  to  come  among  trees  of  considerable  size  ; t 
looked  like  a species  of  oak  with  a thick  shaggy  bark, 
are  an  ever- green  : this  wood  is  very  brittle,  and  the  i 
produce  a kind  of  acorn  of  a very  large  size,  whicl 
Spaniards  and  Portuguese  used  to  carry  away  in  1 
quantities  from  this  country  : they  were  as  highly  estee 
as  the  chesnut,  and  used  for  food  by  the  people  of  t 
nations  : they  also  fed  their  swine  on  them. 

Passing  through  a large  forest,  we  came  to  a small  j; 
on  our  right,  and,  at  sunset,  approached  the  walls  of  I 
resch.  Having  heard  that  some  Spanish  friars  res  | 
here,  1 enquired  for  them,  and  was  soon  conduetel 
their  dwelling,  a very  good  house  of  European  consti: 
tion.  The  principal  friar  came  out  to  meet  me  ; ;| 
after  I had  given  a short  account  of  myself  in  Span- 
said  he  would  lodge  me  for  charity’s  sake  ; and  thenci 
ducted  me  into  a tolerably  well  furnished  room  : and,i 
he  had  lived  in  Mogadore,  he  asked  me  many  quest! 
concerning  that  city,  and  his  old  acquaintances  tin: 
some  of  whom  I happened  to  know.  He  treated  me  v I 
some  wine,  which  he  said  was  of  his  own  manufactu 
it  was  none  of  the  best,  however : and,  at  10  o’clock 
night,  an  excellent  supper  of  fowls  and  sallads,  dressec 
the  Spanish  style,  was  served  up.  This  Padre,  wh 
name  is  Juan  Tinaones , told  me  that  he  had  lived  in  B 
bary  for  ten  years,  four  of  which  he  had  spent  at  Mos 
dore,  three  at  Rhabat,  and  three  here,  secluded  from  i 
civilized  world  ; that  the  court  of  Spain  allowed  a lar 
premium  to  those  Padres,  or  Fathers,  of  good  characi 
to  be  approved  of  by  the  Archbishop,  who  are  willing 
spend  ten  years  in  Barbary  as  missionaries,  and  a stipe 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO.  377 

.hree  thousand  dollars  a year  for  the  remainder  of  their 
vjs.  I asked  him  of  what  use  he  could  be  in  Barbary 
xie  cause  of  Christianity,  since  he  dare  not  even  attempt 
onvert  a Moor  or  an  Arab,  or  mention  the  name  of  the 
iour  as  one  of  the  Godhead  to  either,  or  even  to  a 
? “ None  at  all,”  said  he,  “ but  still  we  bear  the 
a;e  of  missionaries  at  home,  to  convert  the  heathen  : 
a allowance  of  money  is  ample  : we  live  well,  as  you 
tt  (he  was  indeed  fat  and  in  fine  order,)  laugh  at  the 
of  our  countrymen,  and  enjoy  the  present  as  well  as 
ecan.”  (The  circumstance  of  there  being  two  young 
pretty  Jewesses  in  the  house,  and  plenty  of  good 
j r,  did  not  tend,  in  any  great  degree,  to  discredit  his 
resentation.)  “ When  this  ten  years  expire,”  continued 
i pious  Padre,  “ we  get  leave  to  return  to  our  country, 

: re  we  are  received  as  patterns  of  piety,  that  have  ren- 
-j  d vast  services  to  the  Christian  world  : every  respecta- 
ishouse  is  open  to  receive  us  : otir  company  is  much 
rtjjht  after  : our  yearly  salary  of  three  thousand  dollars 
feds  us  many  gratifications ; and,  for  these  ten  years 
Kit  in  such  privations  and  severe  gospel  labours,  we  are 
lived  absolution  for  the  remainder  of  our  lives,  which, 
a will  readily  believe,  we  try  to  make  as  comfortable  as 
Bible.”  Padre  (i.  e.  father)  Tinaones  wanted  to  know 
was  a Catholic?  To  this  I answered  in  the  negative, 
.tsaid  it  was  a pity  ; and  that,  unless  I came  within  the 
a'  of  the  Church,  he  feared  my  precious  soul  would  be 
ntver  miserable.  Our  conversation  next  turned  upon 
iJews  : he  said,  “ there  were  about  two  hundred  mise- 
il  e families  of  them  in  Laresch,  who,  though  they  are, 
i manner,  slaves  to  the  Mohammedans,  will  not  believe 
1 mr  holy  religion  : there  u7ere  two  Jews  who  applied  to 
i and  said  they  were  converted  to  the  true  Catholic 
n,  and  believed  Jesus  Christ  to  be  the  Son  of  God,  and 
i Saviour  of  mankind  : they  were  accordingly  baptized 
s Christians  ; yet,  as  soon  as  they  had  obtained  a loan  of 
.of  hundred  dollars  from  me,  in  small  sums,  and  found 
ny  could  get  no  more,  they  turned  back  to  Judaism 
an,  and  left  me  no  means  of  redress  ; which  fully  con- 
iced  me  that  their  pretended  conversion  to  Christianity 
a 5 nothing  more  than  a premeditated  scheme  to  rob  me 

48 


378 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


of  my  money;  and  that,  whenever  a Jew  professes  tc  < 
come  a Christian,  it  is  but  a false  pretence,  and  he  is  3 1 
ated  entirely  by  mercenary  motives.  The  Jews,”  ac|: 
he,  “ hold  Christ  and  his  followers  in  the  greatest  p| 
ble  contempt,  and  pretend  to  believe  that  all  men,  i 
are  not  Israelites,  will  be  doomed,  at  the  day  of  judgn , 
to  eternal  punishment.”  This  night  was  principally  s i 
in  conversation  with  the  Padre,  on  various  subjects. 

Thursday,  January  18th,  I made  ready  to  go  on  e: , 
but  the  tide  ran  so  rapidly  at  that  time,  that  it  was  im  s 
sible  to  pass  the  river  without  the  risk  of  being  driven  ; 
the  sea  ; so  I had  time  to  make  observations. 

Laresch  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  left  bank  ot  i 
river  Saboo,  near  its  entrance  into  the  sea : the  town ' 
along  the  river’s  bank,  and  is  half  a mile  in  length, 
very  narrow  : it  is  strongly  walled  in  all  around,  and) 
two  gates,  one  on  the  east,  and  the  other  on  the  south  s | 
the  fortress  is  on  a hill  south  of  the  town,  from  whin 
is  only  separated  by  a wall ; it  is  strongly  built,  and  ft 
ed  by  eight  towers  ; has  about  one  hundred  pieces  of 
non  mounted  on  its  battlements,  and  stands  too  high  t 
battered  down  by  the  shipping,  even  if  they  could 
into  the  river.  This  town  is  said  to  have  been  buil  j 
the  Portuguese  originally,  and  only  occupies  the  s i 
space  it  did  formerly,  that  is  to  say,  about  one  mil  l 
circumference  : it  contains  about  eighteen  thousand  i 
habitants,  i.  e.  sixteen  thousand  Moors,  and  two  thousjti 
Jews,  who  are  all  very  poor,  as  no  trade  is  carried  onll 
by  sea  or  by  land  : they  are  obliged  to  work  hard  in 
adjacent  gardens,  and  till  the  impoverished  fields,  in  or 
to  gain  a scanty  subsistence.  This  is  the  only  safe]' 
the  Emperor  of  Morocco  has  for  fitting  out  his  la 
cruisers,  from  whence  they  can  get  to  sea  with  their  an 
ment : the  river  here  is  very  narrow,  runs  close  along 
walls  of  Laresch,  and  is  very  deep  opposite  the  tov 
there  is  said  to  be  on  the  bar  at  its  mouth  eighteen  fee 
water  at  high  spring  tides.  The  river  within  the  towi 
both  broad  and  deep  ; the  tides  run  very  rapidly  botl 
flood  and  ebb,  so  much  so,  that  we  were  obliged  to  v 
until  it  was  nearly  spent  before  it  was  deemed  safe  to  cro 
directly  in  the  ferrying  place,  an  old  brig  lay  sunk,  wh 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


379 


rl  been  captured  under  the  Russian  flag,  and  the  crew 
ot  as  slaves  or  prisoners  for  about  a year.  The  Empe- 
c’s  navy  was  now  lying  alongside  of  the  opposite  bank, 
insisting  of  one  frigate-built  ship,  coppered  to  the  bends, 
xabout  700  tons  burden,  and  mounting  32  guns,  ap- 
.',-ently  18  pounders,  on  the  main  deck  ; and  a brig, 
oaed  the  Swearah,  also  coppered — a beautiful  vessel, 
r unting  18  guns,  said  to  sail,  and  from  her  appearance, 
vukl  sail  very  fast : she  was  built  in  England,  and  there 
iid  in  the  best  possible  manner,  and  presented  to  the 
•iperor  by  a Jew  of  Mogadore,  named  Macnin,  a most 
liorious  character,  but  called  a very  rich  merchant:  this 
u has  a brother  in  London,  who,  it  is  said,  has  hereto- 
ce  managed  to  get  goods  on  credit  to  very  large  amounts, 
i he  then  sends  them  to  Mogadore,  where  his  brother 
ails  back  the  ships  with  less,  generally,  than  half  the 
aie  of  the  outward  cargo,  and  thus  continues  to  gull 
h English  merchants  in  the  true  Barbary  style  : the 
rjicipal  in  London  fails — his  creditors  compound  with 
ii : Jie  begins  anew;  obtains,  from  some  quarter  or  an- 
ter,  all  the  credit  he  wishes ; sends  out  the  goods  to 
libary  ; gets  no  returns ; fails  again,  and  again  com- 
jrjmises,  and  commences  the  old  business.  The  empe- 
a some  time  ago,  attempted  to  give  this  worthy  Jew 
n, ‘chant  a gentle  squeeze,  and  seized  his  goods,  houses, 
ai,  and  every  thing  valuable  that  his  officers  could  lay 
hur  hands  on ; upon  which  Macnin , to  conciliate  his 
a esty,  and  to  get  a part  of  his  ill-gotten  property  back 
gin,  made  him  a present  of  this  fine  brig,  which  could 
k have  cost  him  much,  for  “ los  Inglesis  lo  pagan,”  (the 
ijglish  pay  for  it,)  is  his  motto.  These  two  vessels  and 
b new  frigate  at  Rhabat,  now  constitute  the  whole  of  the 
iperor’s  naval  force  : his  maxim  is  to  be  at  war  with 
ary  nation  who  has  not  made  a treaty  with  him,  or  which 
u not  a Consul  General  residing  at  Tangier,  to  make 
ui  the  customary  presents  on  his  annual  holidays,  or  pay 
m tribute  agreeably  to  the  terms  of  his  treaties.  Ac~ 
ding  to  this  system,  he  sends  out  his  cruisers  from 
i e to  time,  who,  if  they  find  a vessel  bearing  a flag, 
vose  nation  has  not  made  a treaty  of  peace  with  him, 
ty  capture  her,  bring  her  in  as  a good  prize,  and  retain 


380 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


the  crew  as  slaves  or  prisoners.  About  eighteen  moi  i 
ago,  this  brig  Mogadore,  then  on  a cruise,  captured  i 
Russian  brig  before  mentioned,  and  carried  her  into  j 
resch  : now  the  emperor  of  Russia  had  not  stipulated  1 
peace  with  his  Moorish  majesty,  and  had  no  Consul : 
siding  at  Tangier  ; so  the  vessel’s  cargo  was  soon  dispc 
of  as  a prize,  and  her  officers  and  crew,  ten  in  num  i 
were  thrown  into  prison,  and  frequently  compellec  < 
work  on  board  the  vessels  of  war.  After  about  a ye 
captivity  in  this  manner,  finding  no  Christian  power  chi 
ed  the  men,  and  having  no  use  for  them,  the  empli 
ordered  them  to  be  removed  to  the  prison  at  Tang! 
Padre  Tinaones  told  me  these  facts,  and  said  he  had  c 
all  he  could  for  the  Christians  while  they  were  in  Lare 
prison,  and  that  their  brig  had  sunk  in  the  ferrying-p 
for  want  of  care. 

Proceeding  on  our  journey,  we  soon  mounted  the  II 
hills  on  the  right  bank  of  this  river,  where  we  found  m 
huts  constructed  of  stones  and  mud,  with  steep  r 
thatched  with  straw,  after  the  manner  of  the  Scotch  J 
Irish  hovels  : these  were  the  first  buildings  of  the  kii  I 
had  seen  in  Africa,  and  contrary  to  the  Moorish  cust  i 
they  were  quite  defenceless.  Continuing  our  jour 
through  a long  wood,  and  over  a hilly,  sandy  soil,  ail  ; 
day  as  fast  as  possible,  we  pitched  our  tent  at  night  ; 
deep  valley,  near  a small  douhar,  where  we  obtained  sc  ( 
milk  for  our  suppers.  It  commenced  raining  in  the  ev 
ing,  and  continued  to  pour  without  intermission,  attew 
with  strong  gales  and  squalls,  until  daylight,  but  as 
tent  was  tight  and  strong,  1 experienced  from  it  no  m; 
rial  inconvenience. 

Friday  the  19th,  soon  after  daylight,  it  ceased  to  r; 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After  passing  m; 
douhars  and  some  huts  of  the  construction  mentioned  a 
Laresch,  we  entered  a deep  valley,  the  breadth  of  wh 
was  about  six  miles  : the  rain  had  soaked  the  soil  so  mu 
as  to  render  it  almost  impassable,  so  that  the  mules  sui 
into  the  mud  nearly  up  to  their  bellies,  and  we  were  oblic 
to  dismount  and  wade  through  it  on  foot.  This  val 
contains  two  small  rivers,  which  are  not  fordable  at  hi 
tides:  the  little  town  of  Azila  stands  at  their  mouth,  t 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO, 


381 


a about  ten  miles  to  our  left : the  quantity  of  rain  that 
r!  fallen  the  preceding  night,  had  rendered  them  quite 
<p  even  at  low  water,  so  that  in  attempting  to  ford  one 
them  on  my  mule,  he  was  carried  away  by  the  current, 
i.  I was  forced  to  swim;  however,  I held  the  mule  by 
h bridle,  and  landed  safely.  My  soldier  and  muleteer 
eing  I had  got  safe  across,  at  length  ventured  in  different 
jibes,  and  also  succeeded  in  getting  over.  Our  way 
uiy  became  very  mountainous  and  woody,  and  the  deep 
'leys,  through  which  a number  of  brooks  ran  winding 
j lg  in  very  serpentine  courses,  rendered  our  path  muddy 
nl  slippery. 

At  3,  P.  M.  we  gained  the  summit  of  a mountain, 
;n  I saw  distinctly  the  bay  of  Tangier,  part  of  the 
t its  of  Gibraltar,  and,  to  my  great  joy,  the  coast  of 
ijiin  ; it  was  the  hospitable  shore  of  civilized  Europe  ! 
Tie  crowd  of  sensations  that  rushed  upon  my  mind  at 
h[.  grateful  sight,  can  be  more  easily  conceived  than  de- 
c bed.  It  brought  to  my  recollection  the  trials  and  dis- 
uses I had  undergone  since  leaving  it,  as  well  as  my 
rat  deliverances  : all  these  sensations  together  so  over- 
te  my  faculties,  and  agitated  me  in  such  a manner,  that 
ad  not  power  to  keep  myself  steady,  and  I actually  fell 
cm  my  mule  no  less  than  three  times  in  travelling  from 
mice  to  Tangier ; a distance  of  five  or  six  miles.  As  I 
a not  before  fallen  from  my  mule  during  my  whole 
crney  from  Mogadore,  the  soldier  who  guarded  me 
1 light  it  very  extraordinary,  nor  could  I persuade  him 
It  I was  not  too  ill  to  ride  : he,  therefore,  after  helping 
r on  again  the  third  time,  gave  his  horse  to  the  muleteer, 
nl  walked  by  my  side,  holding  me  on  for  some  time: 
r head,  however,  became  so  dizzy  from  the  state  of  my 
filings,  that  I was  obliged  to  qlight  and  walk  with  his 
distance  for  about  a mile,  until  we  came  near  the  walls 
a Tangier,  when  he  again,  at  my  request,  placed  me  on 
r mule. 

It  was  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening  when  we  arrived  at 
tl  gate,  and  the  soldier  having  announced  me  to  the 
ards,  I was  conducted  directly  into  the  city,  and  before 
tfc  governor,  who  ordered  me  to  be  escorted  to  the  Amec- 
in  Consul’s  house,  where  I soon  arrived,  and  was  re- 


382 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


ceived  most  hospitably  by  James  Simpson , Esquire , i 
American  Consul  General,  who  immediately  introdi 
me  to  his  amiable  lady  and  family,  and  requested  nv: 
consider  his  house  my  home.  I accordingly  took  up 
day-quarters  with  him,  and  remained  under  his  truly  ]j 
pitable  roof  during  my  stay  at  Tangier.  Having  mat 
present  to  my  guard  and  muleteer  for  their  attention  i 
fidelity  to  me  on  the  journey,  and  made  up  a packet  i 
my  friend  Willshire,  I despatched  them  with  his  mule,  : 
on  the  22d  of  January,  1816,  back  for  Mogadore. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Moorish  captives — of  Tangier,  and  Christian  Consul ■ 

• — passage  to  Gibraltar — reception  there — embarks  • 
America — observations  on  Gibraltar — passage  in  the  it 
Rapid — arrival  at  JVeiv  York — visits  his  family — i ! j 
to  Washington  City , ( the  seat  of  government ,J  and  i • 
dudes  with  brief  remarks  on  slavery. 

During  my  stay  at  Tangier,  I was  made  acquaint 
with  Mr.  Green,  the  English  Consul  General,  a gen 
man  of  talents,  high  respectability,  and  worth  ; and  wfi 
Mr.  Agrill,  the  Swedish  Consul  General,  who  had  lat 
arrived  there  from  Sweden.  On  his  arrival,  he  found  I 
crew  of  the  before- mentioned  Russian  brig,  in  Tang1 
prison,  and  finding  there  was  no  one  to  claim  or  redet 
them,  and  that  they  were  natives  of  what  once  was  Su 
dish  Pomerania,  he  purchased  them  from  the  Sultan  i 
about  two  thousand  dollars,  which  he  paid  out  of  his  o\ 
private  funds,  and  set  them  at  liberty.  I saw  and  co 
versed  with  the  master  and  most  of  the  crew  of  that  vess 
who  told  me  they  had  been  imprisoned  at  Laresch  aboui 
year ; had  been  robbed  of  most  of  their  clothing,  ai 
then  brought  to  Tangier,  where  Mr.  Agrill  had  the  cha 
ity  and  humanity  to  redeem  them,  though  they  were  ca 
tured  under  the  Russian  flag,  and  did  not  owe  allegiaw 
to  the  Swedish  government.  Mr.  Agrill  kept  them 
his  own  house,  waiting  for  a Swedish  vessel  of  war,  whi( 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


383 


as  daily  expected,  and  by  which  he  meant  to  send  them 
ctheir  country.  The  captain  mentioned  to  me  that  his 
/risei  was  in  fact  English  property  covered  by  the  Rus- 
,i a flag,  in  order  to  avoid  capture  by  the  American  cruis- 
if.  I had  before  known  Mr.  Agrill  in  St.  Petersburg, 
Ussi.  — then  in  a public  character  : he  is  a man  of  much 
na  worth. 

Tangier  bay  is  said  to  be  the  best  harbour  in  the  Moor- 
s dominions  : its  bottom  is  clear,  and  it  might  contain 
one  time  one  thousand  sail  of  large  vessels,  which 
vuld  ride  in  safety,  being  sheltered  from  all  but  the 
ctherly  winds,  which  have  only  the  rake  of  the  breadth 
i the  strait,  and  the  holding  ground  is  excellent : the 
■ t anchorage  is  in  seven  and  a half  fathoms  water ; 
vtre  the  Portuguese  flag-staff  (which  is  the  westernmost 
r near  the  water)  is  on  a line  with  the  American  flag- 
t F,  which  latter  is  high,  and  can  always  be  known  by 
laing  its  flag  hoisted  when  an  American  vessel  approaches 
h bay.  The  city  of  Tangier  is  built  on  the  west  side 
r.  near  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  on  the  declivity  of  a hill, 
W miles  east  of  Cape  Spartel,  rising  like  an  amphithea- 
r ; the  houses  are  built  of  stone,  and  whitewashed,  and 
ch  town,  when  seen  from  the  bay  or  strait,  has  a very 
xdsome  appearance  ; but  it  is  badly  built ; the  houses 
>ng  generally  small,  and  but  one  story  high,  with  flat 
eraced  roofs  : the  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  badly 
xed,  and  commonly  very  dirty.  There  are,  however, 
me  handsome  buildings  in  Tangier  ; among  which  are 
f Spanish,  Swedish,  Dutch,  French,  Danish,  and  Por- 
uuese  consular  houses:  the  old  English  consular  house 
i;  been  lately  abandoned  on  account  of  its  bad  construe- 
in,  but  they  are  now  building  a very  elegant  one,  that 
ssaid  to  have  already  cost  the  British  government  ten 
l usand  pounds  sterling,  and  will  cost  nearly  as  much 
i re  by  the  time  it  is  finished  and  furnished.  The  Amer- 
en government  has  no  consular  house  at  Tangier;  the 
: isul  general  resides  in  a house  that  was  formerly  at- 
ihed  to  that  of  the  Swedish  consulate  : it  was  purchased 
i Mr.  Simpson,  on  his  own  private  account,  for  his  own. 
a1,  and  for  an  office  for  the  use  of  the  United  States,  in 
ler  to  save  the  expense  of  house-rent ; and  the  dwelling 


384 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


part  is  so  small  and  inconvenient,  that  when  his  own  c . 
dren  visit  him  from  abroad,  he  is  forced  to  hire  lodgi  > 
for  them  in  Jews’  or  other  houses.  I believe  every  g . 
eminent  having  a consul  residing  at  Tangier,  except  ij{ 
of  my  own  country,  has  either  built  or  purchased  a mans; 
for  the  accommodation  of  that  officer.  Mr.  Simpsc  i 
eldest  son,  with  his  lady,  were  now  on  a visit  to  their  . 
rents  ; and  the  consul  had  to  hire  apartments  in  a Je  [ 
house  for  a few  days  to  accommodate  them  : he  was  ; \ 
under  the  necessity  of  procuring  lodgings  for  mei  i 
Jew’s  house  during  a few  nights  of  my  stay  there. 

Tangier  is  an  irregularly  built  walled  town  of  ab  [ 
one  mile  in  circuit,  including  the  fortress  which  overtax 
and  commands  it : it  is  well  supplied  with  water  by  a c . 
ered  aqueduct,  and  generally  well  furnished  with  prc , 
sions  : the  several  batteries  are  lined  with  many  piece;  j 
ordnance,  among  which  are  two  pieces  of  long  brass  c. 
non  of  about  fourteen  inches  caliber;  they  are  mounl 
on  carriages,  and  stand  in  a battery  near  the  landing  \vi  j 
out  the  city-gate  : these  two  enormous  brass  pieces  \vi 
made  by  the  Portuguese,  and  are  (judging  by  the  e 
about  eighteen  feet  in  length. 

Tangier  was  taken  from  the  Moors  in  the  year  1441, 
the  Portuguese,  who  gave  it  to  King  Charles  the  II. 
England,  in  a dowry  for  Catharine  of  Portugal,  his  que 
The  English  kept  possession  of  it  for  about  twenty  yeai 
but,  finding  it  subject  to  the  continual  attacks  of  the  fe 
cious  Moors,  from  whom  it  was  with  great  difficulty  < 
fended,  they  blew  up  its  fine  mole  or  basin,  (which  1 
T>efore  rendered  it  a safe  harbour  for  small  vessels,)  to  lo 
water  mark,  together  with  some  of  the  fortifications,  a 
abandoned  the  place  : the  mole  has  not  since  been  rebu 
1 walked  over  it  at  low  water : a great  quantity  of  1 
large  blocks  of  hewn  stone  are  now  to  be  seen  lying  on  I 
solid  foundations,  which  still  remain  almost  entire.  ( 
the  east  side  of,  and  near  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  are  to 
seen  the  ruins  of  an  old  town,  which  is  said  to  have  be 
built  by  the  Romans.  It  must  formerly  have  been  ve 
extensive,  from  the  present  appearance  of  its  ruins,  ai 
was  watered  by  a small  river  that  runs  into  the  bay  near : 
site.  There  are  several  forts  and  batteries  on  the  easte 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO'  385 

bre  of  the  bay,  and  on  Cape  Malibat,  but  they  are  so 
aJy  garrisoned  as  not  to  be  formidable  to  their  enemies, 
ny  should  chance  to  take  shelter  in  the  bay  during 
a weather : they  have  only  to  keep  out  of  the  reach  of 
llshot  from  Tangier.  All  the  Christian  consuls  near 
itEmperor  of  Morocco  reside  at  Tangier,  where  their 
e.ons  are  protected  by  order  of  the  Sultan.  Those  at 
agier  are — for  the  United  States  of  America,  James 
i pson,  Esq. ; Great-Britain,  Mr.  Green  ; France,  Mr. 
ordian;  Sweden,  Mr.  Agrill ; Spain,  Don  Orne,  vice- 
>’;ul;  Denmark,  Mr.  Scornboe  ; Holland,  Mr.  Nijsoin; 
a Portugal,  Mr.  Coloso.  The  consuls  at  Tangier  keep 
a a sort  of  etiquette,  in  celebrating  the  memorable 
)i[:hs  in  the  history  of  their  respective  countries,  and 
E'  particular  national  holidays,  which  custom  is  peculiar 
angier.  They  also  keep  up  the  long  established  cus- 
n of  giving  consular  dinners  all  in  turn  round  on  the 
rial  of  any  new  consul,  or  when  an  old  one  is  recalled, 
These  customs  are  extremely  expensive,  but  have 
a become  absolutely  necessary  in  order  to  impress  the 
njls  of  the  Moors  with  respect  for  the  dignity  of  the 
s active  nations  which  those  consuls  represent.  The 
hjstian  consuls  general,  near  the  Emperor  of  Morocco, 
e generally  speaking,  men  eminent  on  account  of  cha- 
cr,  talents,  and  learning,  and  have  a large  salary  ; for, 
.(foreign  ministers  plenipotentiary,  they  are  not  allowed 
erive  any  emolument  whatever  from  commerce.  By 
opting  of  this  appointment,  they  exclude  themselves 
a!  the  society  and  comforts  of  the  civilized  world,  and 
^besides  in  exile,  and  in  continual  jeopardy,  being 
Wys  in  the  power  of  real  barbarians.  They  are  under 
tiecessity  of  sending  to  Europe  for  all  their  clothing, 

1 ors,  stores,  furniture,  <kc.  except  a few  articles  of 
cisions,  and  those  who  have  families  are  obliged  to 
r their  children  to  other  countries  for  their  education, 
cgh  at  a very  heavy  expense.  Mr.  Simpson  left  a lu- 
ave  commercial  establishment  at  Gibraltar,  in  1798, 
ic went  to  Tangier,  merely  to  serve  our  government,  at 
t ie  when  war  was  intended  by  the  Moorish  Sultan 
list  our  commerce.  He  succeeded  in  averting  the 
ntened  blow',  and  in  establishing  our  present  treaty 

49 


386 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


with  that  sovereign.  He  is  a gentleman  of  unblemisU 
character  and  pleasing  manners,  and  has  expended  a ha 
some  fortune  in  the  service  of  the  United  States,  over ; j 
above  his  consular  salary.  He  has  passed  the  best  of  g 
days  in  the  service  of  his  adopted  country,  and,  in  j 
opinion,  deserves  a handsome  maintenance  from  govt 
ment  during  the  remainder  of  his  life,  free  from  the  cai 
vexations,  and  anxieties  that  are  always  attached  to  a o', 
sulate  in  such  barbarous  countries.  Mr,  Simpson  i:  i 
native  of  Scotland,  but  a firm  American  in  principle, ; 
an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  our  excellent  institutions. 

The  whole  sea  force  of  the  Emperor  of  Morocco,  j 
before  observed,  consists  of  two  frigates  of  32  guns  ea , 
and  the  brig  Mogadore  of  18  guns  : the  only  port  he  < 
which  can  shelter  and  secure  them  from  the  reach  ol : 
enemy,  is  Laresch,  which  they  can  neither  enter  nor  i 
from  when  equipped,  except  at  high-water  spring  ti< 
There  are  no  corsairs  or  small  vessels  belonging  to  ir . 
viduals  as  formerly,  nor  is  there  even  a merchant  ve 
belonging  to  the  Moors.  In  order  to  show  how  m 
value  the  present  Sultan  sets  on  his  ships  of  war,  I it 
relate  in  what  manner  he  sometimes  disposes  of  th 
About  two  years  since,  the  Bashaw  of  Tripoli  sent  22 
present  to  the  Emperor  of  Morocco,  a beautiful  Cir< . 
siau  girl : she  was  a virgin,  and  possessed  charms  vd 
which  the  old  Sultan  was  so  enraptured,  that  he  asked 
ambassador  who  escorted  her  from  Tripoli,  what  he  co: 
send  to  his  friend,  the  Bashaw,  in  return  for  this  jew  i 
I have  nothing  but  wheat,  said  he,  of  which  the  Basil 
your  master,  can  always  have  as  much  as  he  pleases,  j 
Bashaw,  my  master,  said  the  ambassador,  is  always  i 
want  of  wheat : but,  replied  the  Emperor,  I would  sj 
him  something  more  valuable  ; he  has  made  me  a n, 
superb  present,  and  I wish  to  return  the  compliment  ii 
handsome  manner.  Your  majesty  has  frigates,  said  ' 
ambassador: — so  I have,  indeed,  answered  the  Still i 
and  that  gives  me  much  pleasure ; go  to  Laresch, 
make  choice  of  one  from  among  my  navy  : I will  h 
her  fitted  out  in  the  best  manner,  and  sent  round  to  y 
master  directly  : the  ambassador  did  not  wait  a sect 
bidding,  but  went  in  haste  to  Laresch,  for  fear  the  sc 


TRAVELS  IN  MOROCCO. 


S87 


might  change  his  mind  ; chose  a fine  new  frigate  of 
: guns  that  had  but  a short  time  previous  been  coppered 
:cthe  bends,  which  was  immediately  fitted  according  to 
, >mise,  and  sent  to  Tripoli,  with  the  ambassador  on 
urd,  and  where  she  arrived  in  safety,  being  escorted  by 
English  vessel  of  war.  Both  Mr.  Simpson  and  Mr. 
Ten  assured  me,  that  this  statement  was  in  substance 
;Jrect.  The  Emperor’s  squadron  might  be  blockaded, 

; all  times,  by  a very  small  force  ; his  large  ships  are, 

: refore,  not  at  all  to  be  dreaded  by  any  maritime  power 
vfo  has  timely  notice  of  his  hostile  intentions,  as  they  are 
.■illy  equipped  and  manned,  having  now  no  maritime 
:< amerce,  and  consequently  no  nursery  for  seamen.  The 
)tjy  port  from  which  he  could  do  any  mischief  of  im- 
Ktance  to  Christian  commerce,  is  Tangier.  Should  this 
mny  future  Sultan,  think  proper  to  declare  war  against 
; maritime  state,  he  has  only  to  send  money  over  to 
SHiz,  Algeciras,  or  Gibraltar,  and  purchase  fast  sailing 
ajeen  rigged  boats  ; fit  and  man  them  in  Tangier  imme- 
litely,  and  send  them  to  cruize  in  the  mouth  of  the 
tj.its  : thus  they  might  seize  on  the  unsuspecting  and 
■ armed  merchant  ships,  as  they  pass  along — conduct 
hm  into  Tangier  bay,  or  to  any  place  along  the  coast, 
vere  they  would  soon  unload  and  run  the  vessels  on 
I re,  keeping  their  crews  as  slaves.  In  this  light  alone 
it  the  Emperor  of  Morocco  be  reckoned  formidable  to 
immercial  states,  and  this  game  could  only  be  played  for 
tort  time,  until  the  nation  thus  attacked  could  send  a 
c:e  sufficient  to  destroy  the  marauders.  It  would  be 
od  policy,  however,  to  keep  at  peace  with  the  Moorish 
icrereign,  as  his  rovers,  lying  at  the  door  of  the  Medi- 
ejranean,  might  do  much  mischief ; and  to  be  a slave  to 
1 Moors,  is,  indeed,  dreadful  to  a Christian. 

Tangier  has  but  little  commerce  with  Europe,  and  this 
sbhiefiy  carried  on  by  the  Jews  ; but  the  English  govern- 
rnt  get  their  supplies  of  cattle  and  other  fresh  provis- 
os for  the  garrison  of  Gibraltar,  from  that  place  and 
ijtuan  : this  and  the  other  trifling  trade  is  carried  on  in 
'jpraltar  boats  and  Spanish  small  craft.  There  is  a con- 
-ierable  coral  fishery  along  the  Moorish  coast,  about 
-pe  Spartel ; and  while  I remained  at  Tangier,  two 


383 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


Spanish  boats  came  into  the  port  with  what  coral  they  \ 
been  able  to  procure  for  the  last  six  months  : it  was 
beautiful  colour,  and  of  an  excellent  quality  ; I wa:  r 
formed  by  one  of  the  boatmen,  that  in  order  to  get] 
coral,  they  anchor  in  deep  water,  amongst  the  rocks,  i 
let  down  their  nets,  which  soon  become  entangled  amo  < 
the  coral,  and  they  then  draw  it  on  board  : this  man  | 
that  they  came  over  from  Tariffa,  and  obtained  leave  1 r 
the  Alcayd  of  Tangier  to  fish  on  the  coast,  by  agre  :j 
to  give  him  one -third  of  the  coral  they  should  obtain;  \ 
he  put  two  Moors  on  board  their  boats  (one  each)  t(| 
sist  them  in  procuring  provisions,  water,  &c.  and  s / 
as  safeguards : he  said,  the  whole  of  the  coral  they  j; 
had  was  to  be  divided  the  next  day,  when  they  sh  1 
sell  their  share  at  public  sale  to  the  highest  bidder ; a 
afterwards  understood  from  Mr.  Simpson,  that  the  Fr : 
Consul  purchased  it  for  twelve  hundred  dollars , and  Ip 
were  twelve  fishermen  to  share  the  money. 

On  the  29th  of  January,  1816,  a small  schooner  bp 
ready  to  sail  for  Gibraltar,  I took  my  leave  of  Mr.  S'  | 
son  and  family,  and  proceeded  on  to  the  mole,  in  o 
to  embark.  This  vessel  had  been  hired  by  a certain  1 
named  Torrel,  to  carry  his  family  across  to  Gibra 
which,  with  two  or  three  other  families  of  European  J 
who  would  not  conform  to  the  dress  in  which  all  Jewlji 
Moorish  Barbary  had  been  ordered  to  appear,  non 
the  tribute  lately  levied  on  them  by  the  Sultan,  weru 
dered  to  depart  forthwith  from  his  dominions.  T 4 
families  came  out  of  the  gates  of  the  city,  in  ordct 
embark  together,  and  proceeded  with  their  baggagt 
the  ruins  of  the  old  mole,  to  go  off  in  the  boat,  it  bji 
low  water : they  were  accompanied  by  a consider  \ 
number  of  Jews  and  Jewesses : a few  of  the  latter,  r 
decently  dressed,  wished  to  escort  them  to  the  boat,  ) 
there  to  take  their  leave,  &c.  ; but  the  Moorish  cap)  t 
of  the  port,  without  ceremony,  began  to  brush  them  1 : 
with  big  staffs  they  carried  for  the  purpose  : these  st  1 
were  about  five  feet  in  length,  and  one  inch  in  dianr 
and  they  applied  them  so  unmercifully,  and  with  sb 
singular  dexterity,  peculiar  to  the  Moors,  as  to  lay  irp 
decent-looking  Jewish  females,  as  well  as  males,  pros1! 


^ TRAVELS. 


389 


ipn  the  beach  ; when  they  renewed  their  blows,  in  order 
raise  them  on  their  feet  again,  and  drive  them  into  the 
r-gate,  like  so  many  of  the  brute  creation. 

It  about  8 o’clock,  A.  M.  I got  on  board  this  vessel, 
company  with  Mr.  John  Simpson  and  his  lady,  who 
re  on  their  return  from  a visit  to  their  parents  ; and  after 
v ting  nearly  three  hours  for  a letter  which  the  Governor 
v hed  to  send  to  Gibraltar,  we  set  sail  and  left  the  bay 
vfh  a fair  but  a light  breeze.  The  scene  of  inhumanity 
l oppression  I had  just  witnessed,  prompted  me  to 
hjik  my  God  again  that  I was  not  a Jew,  and  that  I was 
i e more  free  from  a country  inhabited  by  the  worst  of 
rbarians. 

^ssing  up  the  strait,  which  in  one  place  is  only  eight 
lies  broad,  we  arrived  safe  in  Gibraltar  bay  in  the  even- 
ni ; but  as  we  did  not  get  up  before  the  town  until  the 
-j:s  of  the  garrison  were  closed,  we  were  obliged  to  re- 
un  (forty  in  number)  on  board  the  vessel  during  the 
ilit.  On  the  30th  we  were  visited  very  early  by  a boat 
rm  the  health  office,  and  permitted  to  land.  I went  on 
hjre  immediately,  and  was  received  by  my  friend  Sprague 
> h demonstrations  of  unfeigned  joy,  and  heartily  wel- 
cjned  to  that  portion  of  the  civilized  world,  and  treated 
vh  all  the  attention  that  flows  from  the  warmest  friend- 
dp,  and  the  tenderest  commisseration.  The  American 
dnsul  was  also  attentive  to  me,  and  he  had  previously 
-)  d attention  to  the  wants  of  my  companions  in  distress, 
o had  arrived  there  from  Mogadore  by  sea  a few  days 
lore  me.  An  acquaintance  told  me  that  Mr.  Sprague 
vl  received  Mr.  Willshire’s  letter,  informing  him  of  my 
cptivity,  on  one  Monday  morning  at  the  moment  of  his 
urn  from  Algeciras,  a famous  Spanish  town  on  the  op- 
psite  side  of  the  bay,  about  ten  miles  from  Gibraltar, 
were  he  generally  spent  the  Sabbath  ; that  he  opened  the 
t ter  in  the  presence  of,  and  read  its  contents  to  Mr. 
hnry,  United  States  Consul,  a Mr.  Kennedy  of  Balti- 
x are,  and  some  other  American  gentlemen : that  Mr. 
hnry  suggested  that  a subscription  should  be  opened 
ad  sent  up  to  all  the  Consuls  in  the  Mediterranean,  in 
ler  to  raise  money  as  soon  as  possible,  and  transmit  it 
Mogadore  to  release  us : that  Mr.  Sprague  made  no 


390 


CAPTAIN  fclLEY’S  NARRATIVE. 


answer  whatever  to  this  proposition,  but  sent  a tn 
young  man  out  with  orders  to  purchase  two  double-] ; 
relied  guns,  while  he  hastily  wrote  a few  lines  to  1 
Willshire  and  myself,  as  before  mentioned  : that  there  ( 
but  one  double-barrelled  fowling-piece  to  be  procured 
the  garrison  ; this  was  bought  at  the  price  of  eighty  doll  ,■ 
and  taking  it,  together  with  his  own,  which  was  a \ ^ 
highly  finished,  and  favourite  piece,  he  mounted  his  hr = 
and  proceeded  as  fast  as  possible  to  Algeciras,  carry! 
the  guns  along  with  him ; from  whence  he  immedia  j 
despatched  a courier  to  Tariffa  with  the  guns  and  his !(, 
ters,  ordering  them  to  be  sent  by  an  express  boat  to  1 
gier,  and  to  the  care  of  Mr.  Simpson,  to  be  again  , 
warded  by  express  to  Mogadore.  Such  disintere;; 
goodness,  and  such  prompt  and  animated  exertions: 
relieve  a fellow- creature  in  distress,  have  seldom  bl 
recorded,  and  are  above  all  praise  : they  are  example 
pure  benevolence,  that  do  honour  to  human  nature  ; 
ever  honoured  and  beloved  shall  he  be,  who  has  the  h 
and  the  spirit  to  imitate  them. 

Mr.  Sprague  had  already  paid  the  bills  I had  drawn  i 
him  in  Mogadore  for  my  ransom,  &c.  and  he  now!- 
nished  me  with  provisions  and  stores  for  my  voyage  ho  , 
I having  determined  to  go  by  the  first  vessel  for  : 
United  States.  The  ship  Rapid,  of  New- York,  CapM 
Robert  Williams,  being  in  readiness  to  sail  for  that  pi, 
I embarked  in  her,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Savage  ;1 
Horace;  Clark,  and  Burns,  having  been  previously  - 
commodated  on  board  the  ship  Rolla,  Captain  Brown,  I 
Newburyport,  that  was  to  proceed  to  the  United  Stas 
by  way  of  Cadiz.  We  set  sail  for  our  native  country  i 
the  2d  of  February,  1816,  with  a fair  breeze,  and  on  . 
3d  were  safe  without  the  straits. 

As  Gibraltar  has  been  so  frequently  mentioned  in  r 
narrative,  a few  descriptive  observations  respecting  it  m ' 
not  be  uninteresting  to  some  of  my  readers.  Gibraltar  \ 
situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mediterranean  sea,  and: 
attached  to  the  continent  of  Europe  by  a low  and  narrc 
neck  of  sandy  land,  which,  as  it  lies  neither  in  Spain  n 
Gibraltar,  is  called  the  neutral  ground.  The  rock  &• 
pears  to  me  to  have  been  originally  an  island,  and  t: 


i 


TRAVELS. 


391 


r :b  or  neutral  ground  to  have  been  formed  by  the 
'ing  up  of  sand  and  gravel  from  tire  Mediterranean 
con  the  one  side,  and  from  tire  bay  of  Gibraltar  on  the 


:ir. 


The  rock  is  about  two  miles  in  length  from  north 


1 luth,  and  one  mile  in  breadth  from  east  to  west.  It 
si;  from  the  south  point  in  abrupt  cliffs,  one  above  an- 
tjjr,  for  about  half  a mile,  when  it  comes  to  its  extreme 
e ht,  which  is  said  by  some  to  measure  fourteen  hun- 
;|  feet,  and  by  others,  seventeen  hundred  feet  from  the 
i ace  of  the  water  : the  top  extends,  in  uneven  craggy 
■Ofits,  for  about  one  mile  to  the  northward,  when  it 
r Iks  off  in  one  sudden  cliff,  which  is  nearly  perpendicu- 
rlo  the  neutral  ground,  forming  a face  nearly  as  wide  as 
k rock  itself,  and  completely  inaccessible.  This  rock 
ns  probably  the  strongest  fortress  in  Europe  : it  has 
e 1 long  in  the  hands  of  the  English  ; and  is  surmount- 
with  batteries  of  heavy  cannon  in  every  direction,  and 
p’ongly  walled  in  at  every  accessible  point,  so  as  to  be 
osidered  impregnable.  The  western  side  of  the  rock, 

• its  base,  is  more  flatted  and  less  inaccessible  : here 
Kit  own  is  built,  which  consists  of  about  two  thousand 
:c[e  houses,  and  it  is  said  now  to  contain  thirty  thousand 
ikbitants,  who  may  be  said  to  compose  a very  hetero- 
ejeous  mass  ; for,  as  it  is  a free  port,  where  the  vessels 
n subjects  of  all  nations  who  are  at  peace  with  England, 
n r with  their  goods,  traffic  and  depart  at  pleasure,  and 
i wholly  free  from  governmental  duties  and  impositions, 
eple  of  all  nations,  tongues,  and  kindred,  are  there  to 
itfound.  The  bay  is  very  spacious,  and  is  capable  of 
c taining  a vast  number  of  shipping,  which  may  ride  in 
arty,  except  in  heavy  gales  from  the  east  or  south.  This 
oress  is  held  by  the  English  government  as  a key,  or 
aier  a lock  and  key  to  the  Mediterranean  sea,  the  door 
)i  which  the  Moors  and  Spaniards  consider  as  their  pro- 
)'  ty.  Its  garrison  is  composed  of  native  English  troops, 
vich,  in  time  of  war,  ought  to  be  seven  thousand  strong  : 
tis  commanded  by  a military  governor,  and  is  always 
i ler  martial  law.  The  British,  with  indefatigable  indus- 
:r,  and  immense  labour,  have  formed  roads  up  its  steep 
astern  side,  and  constructed  batteries,  which  are  mount - 
''  with  heavy  artillery,  on  its  very  summit.  Its  eastern 


3 92 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


side  is  steep  and  inaccessible.  In  its  northern  side,  ijj 
the  neutral  ground,  but  some  hundred  feet  above  it,  i 
cavations  have  been  formed  in  the  massy  rock,  in  w : 
heavy  artillery  is  placed,  and  pointed  through  port-M 
penetrating  the  solid  front  : these  batteries  compl<|| 
command  the  land  side,  and  are  of  course  bomb  proc 
they  are  called  the  upper  and  lower  galleries,  and  ar<: 
great  extent.  Among  its  natural  curiosities,  St.  i 
chael’s  cave  is  the  most  remarkable  : — this  commei : 
near  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  no  bottom  to  it  has  ; 
yet  been  found  by  the  English,  though  it  has  been  ; 
plored  (such  is  the  popular  story)  for  many  miles,  and  I 
Moors  . have  a notion  that  it  forms  a passage  under  i 
strait  to  the  coast  of  Morocco.  Thousands  of  monl  i 
also  inhabit  the  summit  and  recesses  of  this  singular 
barren  rock,  but  which  in  time  of  war  is  the  empon 
of  the  Mediterranean  trade. 

After  beating  about  for  several  days,  near  Cape  t 
Vincent,  with  heavy  gales  of  wind  from  the  westw  i 
we  steered  to  the  southward  into  the  latitude  of  Made  1 
and  I found  that  the  reckonings  of  the  officers  on  be 
were  up  fifty  miles  before  we  saw  that  island,  tho  t 
they  had  good  opportunities  to  get  meridian  and  ot  i 
altitudes,  which  further  confirmed  me  in  the  opinion  I 
had  already  formed  respecting  the  Gulf  Stream,  as  elf 
dated  in  the  slppendix.  After  passing  Madeira,  we  m; 
the  best  of  our  way  into  the  latitude  of  the  constant  tr; 
winds,  say  from  25  to  28  degrees,  and  ran  down  as 
as  about  the  longitude  of  70°:  then  steered  northvva 
and  arrived  in  New- York  on  the  20th  of  March,  18 
where  I was  received  by  my  friends  and  fellow- citizt 
with  demonstrations  of  joy  and  commiseration.  I h 
tened  to  Middletown,  Connecticut,  to  visit  my  fami 
whom  I found  in  good  health.  Our  meeting  was  one 
those  that  language  is  inadequate  to  describe.  I sp( 
only  a week  with  them,  our  hearts  beating  in  unison,  a 
swelling  with  gratitude  to  God  for  his  mercies  ; wli 
what  I owed  to  my  friend  Sprague,  and  the  remainder 
my  fellow-sufferers,  called  me  to  the  seat  of  governmei 
On  my  arrival  in  Washington,  I was  introduced  by  t 
Hon.  Samuel  W.  Dana,  Senator  in  Congress,  to  the  Hr 


TRAVELS. 


393 


n:s  Monroe,  Secretary  of  State,  who  received  me  in 
; nost  kind  and  feeling  manner.  The  Administration 
i from  the  Treasury  my  own  and  my  crew’s  ransom, 
j far,  amounting  to  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
h two  dollars  and forty -jive  cents , and  assured  me  that 
) sion  should  be  immediately  made  to  meet  the  amount 
it  might  be  demanded  for  the  remainder  of  the  crew, 

' d they  ever  be  found  alive.  The  Secretary,  together 
many  distinguished  members  of  both  houses  of 
;ress,  advised  me  to  publish  a Narrative  of  my  late 
s:ers,  which  I have  faithfully  performed,  and  shall  now 
s my  labours  with  a few  brief  remarks. 

■ lave  spent  my  days,  thus  far,  amidst  the  bustle  and 
c ties  incident  to  the  life  of  a seaman  and  a merchant, 
eing  now  fully  persuaded  that  the  real  wants  of  hu- 
r. nature  are  very  few,  and  easily  satisfied,  I shall  hence- 
d remain,  if  it  is  God’s  will,  in  my  native  country.  I 
been  taught  in  the  school  of  adversity  to  be  contented 
h my  lot,  whatever  future  adversities  I may  have  to 
(inter,  and  shall  endeavour  to  cultivate  the  virtues  of 
rjy  and  universal  benevolence.  I have  drank  deep  of 
tter  cup  of  sufferings  and  wo  ; have  been  dragged 
v to  the  lowest  depths  of  human  degradation  and 
ihedness  ; my  naked  frame  exposed  without  shelter 
t;  scorching  skies  and  chilling  night  winds  of  the 
e,  enduring  the  most  excruciating  torments,  and 
aing,  a wretched  slave , under  the  stripes  inflicted  by 
l.nds  of  barbarous  monsters,  bearing  indeed  the  hu- 
iform,  but  unfeeling,  merciless,  and  malignant  as 
nns  ; yet  when  near  expiring  with  my  various  and  in- 
nssibie  sufferings  ; when  black  despair  had  seized  on 
^parting  soul,  amid  the  agonies  of  the  most  cruel  of 
Iiths,  1 cried  to  the  Omnipotent  for  mercy,  and  the 
s etched  hand  of  Providence  snatched  me  from  the 
sff  destruction.  Unerring  wisdom  and  goodness  has 
^restored  me  to  the  comforts  of  civilized  life,  to  the 
ci  of  my  family,  and  to  the  blessings  of  my  native 
i;  whose  political  and  moral  institutions  are  in  them- 
the  very  best  of  any  that  prevail  in  the  civilized 
t ns  of  the  globe,  and  ensure  to  her  citizens  the 
50 


394 


CAPTAIN  RILEY’S  NARRATIVE, 


greatest  share  of  personal  liberty,  protection,  and  happii 
and  yet,  strange  as  it  must  appear  to  the  philanthn 
my  proud-spirited  and  free  countrymen  still  hold  a m 
and  a half,  nearly,  of  the  human  species,  in  the 
cruel  bonds  of  slavery,  who  are  kept  at  hard  laboui 
smarting  under  the  savage  lash  of  inhuman  merce 
drivers,  and  in  many  instances  enduring  besides  the 
cries  of  hunger,  thirst,  imprisonment,  cold,  naked 
and  even  tortures.  This  is  no  picture  of  the  imagina 
for  the  honour  of  human  nature  1 wish  its  likeness 
indeed  no  where  to  be  found ; but  I myself  have 
nessed  such  scenes  in  different  parts  of  my  own  cou 
and  the  bare  recollection  now  chills  my  blood  with 
ror.  Adversity  has  taught  me  some  noble  lesson 
have  now  learned  to  look  with  compassion  on  my  ens 
and  oppressed  fellow- creatures,  and  my  future  life 
be  devoted  to  their  cause  : — I will  exert  ail  my  rema 
faculties  to  redeem  dae  enslaved,  and  to  shiver  in  \ ; 
the  rod  of  oppression ; and  I trust  I shali  be  aided  ii 
holy  work  by  every  good  and  every  pious,  free,  and  ; 
minded  citizen  in  the  community,  and  by  the  frien 
mankind  throughout  the  civilized  world. 

The  present  situation  of  the  slaves  in  our  country  t ; 
to  attract  an  uncommon  degree  of  commiseration, 
might  be  essentially  ameliorated  without  endangerin 
public  safety,  or  even  causing  the  least  injury  to  indi 
al  interest.  I am  far  from  being  of  opinion  that 
should  all  be  emancipated  immediately,  and  at  one 
am  aware  that  such  a measure  would  not  only  prove 
ous  to  great  numbers  of  my  fellow-citizens,  who  ; 
present  slave  holders,  and  to  whom  this  species  of  pro 
ty  descended  as  an  inheritance  ; but  that  it  would  alsoi 
loose  upon  the  face  of  a free  and  happy  country,  ai 
of  men  incapable  of  exercising  the  necessary  occupy) 
of  civilized  life,  in  such  a manner  as  to  ensure  to  tli 
selves  an  honest  and  comfortable  subsistence  ; yet  it  i 
earnest  desire  that  such  a plan  should  be  devised,  foil 
on  the  firm  basis  and  the  eternal  principles  of  justice 
humanity,  and  developed  and  enforced  by  the  ge 
government,  as  wiil  gradually,  but  not  less  effecti! 


TRAVELS. 


395 


/:  ler  and  extirpate  the  accursed  tree  of  slavery,  that  has 
en  suffered  to  take  such  deep  root  in  our  otherwise 
ihly-favoured  soil : while,  at  the  same  time,  it  shall  put 
nit  of  the  power  of  either  the  bond  or  the  released 
Ires,  or  their  posterity,  ever  to  endanger  our  present  or 
fire  domestic  peace  or  political  tranquillity. 


APPENDIX. 


jkrvations  on  the  minds,  currents,  &c.  in  some  parts  of  the  Atlan- 
ta ocean,  developing  the  causes  of  so  many  shipwrecks  on  the 
•estern  coast  of  Africa — A mode  pointed  out  for  visiting  the  famous 
dy  of  Tombucioot,  on  the  river  Niger,  &c. 

eing  safely  at  sea  on  board  a good  ship,  and  on  my  way  to  join 
■family,  my  mind  was  more  tranquillized  than  it  had  before  been 
xe  my  redemption,  and  I turned  my  thoughts  to  the  natural  causes 
ch  had  produced  my  late  disaster.  Upon  taking  a full  view  of 
ii|  subject,  according  to  the  best  of  my  capacity,  I felt  convinced 
i not  only  my  own  vessel  was  driven  on  shore  by  a common  current, 
u that  most  of  the  others  that  are  known  to  have  been  wrecked  from 
it:  to  time  on  the  same  coast,  have  been  operated  upon  by  the  same 
airal  causes.  In  order  briefly  to  illustrate  my  position,  I shall  be«? 
n by  stating,  that  to  men  who  are  conversant  with  maritime  affairs, 
n particularly  practical  navigators  who  have  for  a number  of  years 
•versed  the  Atlantic  ocean  to  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Islands,  the 
Yt-Indies,  or  Cape  de  Yerds;  who  have  sailed  along  the  African 
of — from  thence  southeastward  towards  the  negro  or  Guinea  settle- 
nts,  and  to  those  who  have  been  accustomed  to  navigate  towards 
h continent  of  South-America,  sailing  along  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and 
ereen  that  coast  and  the  west  coast  of  Africa,  and  north  of  the  Cape 
flood  Hope  to  the  equator,  it  is  well  known  that  when  sailing 

0 hwardly  from  Europe  near  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  in  fact  nearly 
oss  the  northern  Atlantic  ocean,  the  trade  winds,  as  they  are  call- 
c set  in  and  generally  prevail,  blowing  from  north  to  northeast  or 
:z,  from  about  latitude  32.  N.  on  the  African  coast; — that  farther 
v tward,  they  only  begin  in  the  latitudes  from  30.  to  26. — in  the  last 
rationed  latitude  near  the  coast  of  America,  they  generally  blow 
r a the  northeast  to  the  parallel  of  23.  of  north  latitude,  when  they 
in  more  to  the  eastward  as  you  gain  the  offing  from  the  African  con- 

1 nt.  The  coast  of  Africa  from  Cape  Spartel,  in  latitude  34.  40.  to 
Ae  Blanco,  in  about  latitude  33.  tends  about  southwest,  thence 
Out  south-southwest  to  Santa  Cruz  de  Berberia,  or  Agader,  the 
( them  and  westernmost  port  in  the  empire  of  Morocco,  in  about 
■1  latitude  30.  north,  and  longitude  10.  west,  from  London — it  then 
vas  abruptly  off  to  the  west-southwestward  to  Cape  T4un,  and  con- 
i ies  nearly  the  same  course,  about  west- southwest,  with  little  varia- 
i i to  Cape  Bajador,  about  latitude  26.  north,  longitude  1 6.  west.— 
I3  whole  length  of  this  coast  the  winds  blow  either  diagonally,  or 
Actly  on  shore  perpetually ; the  reason  of  this  I take  to  be,  that  the 


398 


APPENDIX. 


empire  of  Morocco  west  of  the  Atlas  ridge  of  mountains  is  veryif 
and  very  hot,  having  few  rivers,  and  those  very  small  durin"  | 
greatest  part  of  the  year.  There  are  no  lakes  of  consequence, exc! 
one  near  Laresch,  to  cool  the  atmosphere,  nor  any  showers  of  ri 
except  in  winter,  to  refresh  the  thirsty  earth.  From  Santa  C: 
west,  through  what  was  formerly  the  kingdom  of  Suse,  it  blows  ri J 
on  shore,  from  the  same  ciuses  operating  in  a stronger  degree  togetli 
with  a variation  in  the  tending  of  the  coast,  and  thence  to  Bajador, ; , 
fdong  the  coast  of  the  great  desert  to  the  latitude  of  17.  north,  J 
the  trade  wind  continues  to  haul  round,  and  actually  near  the  1;| 
blows  eastward  into  the  gulf  of  Guinea.  This  desert  is  scorched' 
about  one  half  of  the  year  by  the  rays  of  a vertical  sun  : here  natijj 
denies  the  refreshing  rains  that  fall  in  other  regions ; the  smoothest 
surface  strongly  reflecting  the  rapid  sun’s  beams,  while  there  are  ■ 
trees  or  other  objects  to  intercept  the  rays  and  prevent  the  most  pi 
erful  accumulation  of  solar  heat,  which  consequently  becomes  sou 
cessive  during  the  day-time  that  it  scorches  like  fire,  and  the  air  y|J 
breathe  seems  like  the  dry  and  suffocating  vapour  from  glowing  t 
bers  : here  the  wind  ceases  in  the  day  time,  being  literally  consult! 
by  the  sun;  the  whole  surface  thus  becomes  heated  and  baked  in  |j 
day-time,  and  when  the  sun  disappears  from  above  the  horizon,  t| 
cooling  wind  rashes  on  to  the  desert  from  the  ocean  to  restore  the  eqjj 
librium  of  the  atmosphere. 

The  sea  breeze  begins  about  siv  o’clock  in  the  evening,  and  coni' 
ues  to  increase  gradually  all  along  this  coast  until  four  o’clock  in  ill 
morning,  at  which  period  it  has  risen  to  a strong  gale,  so  that  vessjj 
navigating  near  the  land  are  frequently  forced  to  take  in  all  their  lif| 
sails  by  midnight,  and  to  reef  down  snug  before  morning,  when  it! 
gins  to  lull  a little,  and  about  mid  day  becomes  very  moderate,  a 
sometimes  quite  calm.  Every  practical  man  knows  that  the  win 
drive  a current  before  them  on  thp  bosom  of  the  ocean,  as  well  as  alo  j 
its  shores,  that  becomes  more  or  less  strong  in  proportion  as  the  galej 
light  or  heavy,  and  of  long  or  short  duration.  On  this  coast  the  ctij 
rent  sets  before  the  wind  against  the  shore — it  there  meets  with  unco 
querable  resistance,  and  is  turned  southward : it  is  always  felt  fre I 
about  Cape  Blanco,  (lat.  33.)  southward,  and  grows  stronger  aij 
stronger  until  it  passes  Cape  Bapid>r,  because  it  is  more  and  mo! 
compressed — thence  it  strikes  off,  one  part  to  the  southwest  towar 
the  Cape  deYerd  Islands,  and  the  remainder  keeps  along  the  coast 
CapedeYerd,  whence  it  spreads  itself  towards  the  equator,  and  son 
part  follows  the  windings  of  the  coast  round  the  gulf  of  Guinea. 

The  southeast  trade  winds,  which  blow  almost  continually  from  tl 
latitude  of  30.  south  in  the  Atlantic  ocean  to  the  equator,  and  ofen 
the  5th  degree  of  northern  latitude — <hese  southeast  trades  assist  tho 
from  the  northeast  in  heaping  up  the  water  in  the  equatorial  regio 
when  both  the  northeast  and  southeast  winds  uniting,  blow  from  the  eas 
ward,  bearing  the  whole  mass  of  water  on  this  surface  towards  the  Ame 
ican  continent : it  strikes  that  continent  to  the  northward  of  Cape  l 
Roque , between  the  parallels  of  6 degrees  south  latitude  and  the  equ; 
tor,  on  the  coast  of  Brazil,  where  the  coast  turns  to  the  westward;- 


APPENDIX. 


399 


. bg  much  compressed,  it  runs  strongly  along  this  coast  to  the  month 
oj’ihe  mighty  river  Amazon,  with  whose  current  it  is  uuited  and  borne 
djyn  along  the  coast  of  Cayenne,  Surinam,  and  Guy  anna,  receiving 
hits  way  ail  the  waters  brought  against  those  coasts  by  the  constant 
tilde  winas  from  the  east  and  uortheast,  and  all  the  great  rivers  which 
ilW  in  from  the  southward;  amoDg  which  is  the  Oronoko,  one  oi  the 
Jcjgest  ou  the  continent  of  South  America,  and  that  rolls,  iu  the 
rjuy  season,  an  initnense  body  of  water  to  the  ocean  : I have  as- 
elded  that  river  five  hundred  miles.  The  current  runs  so  strong  at 
titles  towards  the  west  along  this  whole  line  ol  coast,  (which  is  mostly 
i r land,  and  has  principally  been  made  on  the  sea-board  by  the 
mvial  qualities  of  the  waters  in  the  rivers,  brought  down  by  freshes, 
v ich  are  then  thick  with  mud,  like  those  of  the  Missisippi,)  as  to 
rider  it  impossible  for  any  vessel  to  get  to  the  windward  or  eastw  rd 
b beating  against  the  wind.  Its  velocity  has  bteu  known  to  exceed 
. ee  miles  an  hour.  This  great  current  is  driven  westward  along  the 
«st  between  it  and  the  West-India  Islands,  a great  part  of  it  entering 
tji  Gult  of  Paria,  south  of  the  Island  of  Trinidad,  where  it  receives 
ad  is  strengthened  by  the  waters  cf  the  western  branch  of  the 
Conoko  river; — here  the  high  land,  that  evidently  joined  this  island 
tdhe  continent  formerly,  has  been  burst  asunder,  perhaps  indeed  as- 
s ted  by  an  earthquake,  or  some  other  convulsion  of  nature  : there 
ale  here  several  passages  for  the  current,  I think  four,  (for  I write 
ejirely  from  memory,)  through  the  same  mountain,  which  is  of  e.u 
f ral  height  on  the  islands  and  on  the  continent,  and  the  fragments  of 
rlks  which  have  been  torn  out  and  roiled  away  by  this  tremendous 
sick  or  current  leave  no  doubt  iu  the  mind  of  the  beholder  of  the 
l ility  of  such  an  event.  The  widest  passage  is  not  more  than  two 
»les  over;  the  narrowest  not  more  than  one  fourth  of  a mile  : these 
psages  are  called  by  the  Spaniards,  who  fust  explored  and  settled 
at  part  of  the  country,  (as  well  as  the  Island  of  Trinidad,  i.  e. 
'.  inity,)  Las  Bocas  del  Dragon , or  the  Dragon’s  Mouths.  This 
lily  of  water  rushes  through  these  passages  with  such  force,  that  it 
i next  to  impossible,  at  times,  for  a fast-sailing  vessel  to  enter  against 
le  current,  with  a strong  trade  wind  in  her  favour,  and  I have 
1-own  many  vessels  bound  to  Trinidad,  obliged  to  bear  up  aod  try 
Tr  the  Leeward  Islands,  and  scarcely  able  to  fetch  Hispaniola  or 
maica.  This,  with  what  passes  northward  of  Trinidad,  is  pent  iu 
d forced  against  the  Spanish  coast  of  Terra  Pinna,  following  its 
indings  round  the  Bay  of  Honduras  to  Cape  Caloche:  by  the  con- 
hut  trade  winds  which  blow  from  the  N.  E.  to  east,  they  are  then 
ivea  through  between  that  Cape  and  Cape  St.  Antonio,  or  the  west- 
n part  cf  the  Island  of  Cuba,  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  From  the 
milarny  in  the  appearance  of  Cape  Catoche  and  Cape  St.  Antonio, 
Se  lowness  of  the  land  on  both  sides,  the  strait  that  divides  them  being 
ily  about  sixty  miles  wide,  and  the  fact  of  soundings  beiDg  found 
:arly  or  quite  across  the  channel,  it  has  been  thought,  and  with 
ery  probability  of  truth  in  its  favour,  that  the  Island  of  Cuba  was 
ice  attached  to  this  poiut  of  the  continent,  and  the  waters  heaped  up 
f the  foregoing  causes  in  that  great  hay  south  of  Cuba,  at  some  re.-- 


400 


APPENDIX. 


mote  period  broke  over  the  low  sandy  land,  tore  it  down,  and  fora  1 
tor  themselves  a free  passage  into  the  great  gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  circumstance  of  the  Island  of  Cuba  stretching  nearly  east  jj 
west  about  seven  hundred  miles  in  leugth,  and  in  many  places  v<[ 
high,  with  the  well  known  fact  of  the  powerful  currents  already  m! 
tioned  setting  in  upon  the  coast  south  and  west  of  it,  and  the  coastj; 
easterly  winds  that  prevail  on  its  southern  side,  leaves  very  little  rot 
to  doubt  that  these  strong  trade  winds,  opposing  the  passage  of  || 
current  up  the  south  side  of  that  once  vast  peninsula,  have  rais 
them  to  such  a pitch  that  they  have  formed  a channel  for  themselv 
This  immense  mass  of  water,  thus  forced  into  the  Bay  of  Mexii 
runs  to  the -N.  W.  to  its  northern  border,  and  strikes  that  shore  a |i| 
leagues  west  of  the  Mississippi  river’s  mouth — thence  taking  a circu; 
direction  round  south  towards  Vera  Cruz  and  along  the  south  coast 
the  golf,  seems  to  lose  itself  near  where  it  entered  at  Cape  Catoc 
In  sailing  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  you  meet  with  whirlpools  and  v< 
strong  currents  in  every  part  of  it,  sometimes  setting  one  way,  ; 
sometimes  another;  the  gulf  being  of  a circular  form,  there  is  noc 
tainty  in  the  currents.  During  the  summer  months  it  is  visited 
the  most  dreadful  squalls  of  thunder  and  lightning,  and  by  wat 
spouts  that  have  often  destroyed  vessels.  Storms  or  hurricanes  i 
also  very  frequent,  and  calms  of  a mouth  or  two  often  occur : hi 
that  astonishing  body  of  water  is  joined  by  that  of  all  the  rivers  tl 
empty  into  the  gulf,  particularly  those  borne  down  by  that  father 
rivers,  the  Missisippi ; — thus  accumulated  and  become  much  hig! 
in  the  Bay  of  Mexico  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  Atlantic  oceaD, 
forces  its  way  eastward  between  Cape  Florida  and  the  northern  side 
the  Island  of  Cuba,  until  meeting  the  great  bank  of  Bahama  in  j 
front,  with  its  numerous  keys  and  rocks,  it  is  turned  northward]] 
along  the  coast  of  Florida.  Its  velocity  there  in  the  narrowest  paj1 
where  it  is  only  about  forty  miles  wide,  has  been  ascertained  (and,  ijj 
deed,  I have  known  it  myself)  to  exceed  five  miles  an  hour  at  sot® 
particular  seasons.  After  leaving  this  narrow  passage,  it  keeps  i|! 
course  northwardly,  spreading  a little  as  it  proceeds,  until  it  strik 
souudiugs  off  Savannah  and  Charleston — the  coast  then  narrows  in  i 
western  edge  again  until  it  approaches  Cape  Hatteras,  where  the  strea 
is  not  more  than  fifty  miles  broad,  and  frequently  runs  with  almost ; 
great  rapidity  as  between  the  Bahama  Bank  and  Florida  shor 
From  Cape  Hatteras  its  course  is  N.  E.  to  the  shoals  off  Nantucki] 
Island  and  George’s  Bank,  where  its  velocity  is  about  two  miles  dj 
hour;  these  obstructions  give  it  a more  easterly  direction,  until  j 
strikes  the  Great  Bank  of  Newfoundland  in  the  latitude  of  42.  N.  (j 
thereabouts : here  it  meets  with  the  resistance  of  the  bank,  and 
turned  by  it  to  the  E.  S.  E.  There  is  in  this  part  of  the  ocean 
current  which  perpetually  sets  from  the  northward,  south-eastward!; 
along  the  coast  of  Newfoundland  ; it  is  this  current  which  bring! 
from  the  coast  of  Labrador  and  Hudson’s  Straits  the  islands  of  ic| 
that  are  so  often  met  with  by  ships  on  and  about  the  grand  Newfound] 
land  Bank  in  the  first  part  of  the  summer,  and  which  have  proved  fat'd 
to  so  many  ships  and  their  crews : the  appearance  of  these  island1 


APPENDIX. 


401 


ujves  beyond  a possibility  of  doubt  the  existence  of  that  current, 
fich  pressing  upoo,  is  joined  to  that  of  the  Gulf  Stream  and  the 
y ile  sets  away  together  towards  the  Azores,  or  Western  Islands,  at 
h rate  of  from  one  to  two  and  a half  miles  an  hour  : — this  current  is 
e by  all  vessels  bound  from  the  United  States  to  the  Western  Islands 
r Madeira,  or  the  Canaries,  that  sail  in  the  parallels  of  the  Azores, 
dich  all  those  vessels  bound  to  Madeira,  the  Canaries,  or  the  coast 
f Spain  and  Portugal,  and  the  Mediterranean  sea,  generally  do. 
I'^se  vessels  that  make  the  Western  Islands,  when  bound  to  Europe, 
e irally  feel  it  until  they  lose  sight  of  those  islands ; when  in  staud- 
n away  for  the  northern  or  central  ports  of  Europe,  they  feel  it  no 
lie,  and  it  has  therefore  generally  been  thought  to  lose  itself  near 
3 Azores,  in  the  ocean.  This  is  a mistake — for  it  continues  its 
orse  for  the  coast  of  Africa,  making  no  account  of  the  island  of 
lleira,  though  the  most  of  it  passes  northward  of  that  island  in  a 
o heasterly  direction,  and  strikes  the  African  continent  from  Cape 
lllico  to  the  latitude  of  29°  north.  When  it  comes  near  this  coast, 
again  contracted  as  it  feels  the  effects  of  the  trade  winds  near 
iffioast,  and  rushes  forward  at  times  with  great  velocity  against  the 
oft  between  Cape  Blanco  and  the  islands  of  Lanzarote,  the  north- 
en  and  easternmost  of  the  Canary  Islands,  being  attracted,  as  it 

S,  by  the  vacuum  occasioned  by  the  trade  winds  and  currents 
h have  been  before  noticed,  and  which  have  in  a measure  drained 
Avaters  from  the  coast,  and  the  continuation  of  the  Gulf  Stream 
neasing  in  velocity,  restores  the  waters  nearly  to  their  former  level, 
fch  still  are  kept  rolling  along  before  the  wind,  against  and  along 
!i  coast  towards  the  equator,  and  are  again  driven  by  the  same 
a es  to  the  coast  of  America  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  back 
gin,  in  what  is  usually  termed  the  Gulf  Stream,  to  the  coast  of 
Vist  and  South  Barbary,  making  their  continual  round.  Ships 
njd  from  Europe,  say  England,  France,  Holland,  &c.  to  the  West- 
nies,  the  Cape  de  Yerd  Islands,  the  coast  of  Guinea,  Brazils,  or 
cia  voyages,  or  to  the  west  coast  of  America,  generally  steer  south- 
ed along  the  coast  of  Portugal,  until  they  cross  the  mouth  of  the 
its  of  Gibraltar,  where  if  they  meet  with  southerly  winds  they 
indrawn  towards  the  coast  of  Africa  by  a small  indraught  setting  to- 
vds  the  strait,  where  a current  always  runs  in;  for  the  waters  of 
b rivers  which  empty  into  the  Mediterranean  sea  are  not  sufficient 
c supply  the  loss  from  evaporations  rendered  necessary  in  order  to 
listen  in  some  measure  the  parched  earth  and  sand  on  its  southern 
Hler,  and  to  cool  the  heated  atmosphere,  and  support  by  dews  the 
city  vegetation  on  the  coast,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year, 
v:re  no  rain  falls  except  a little  in  winter ; so  that  the  surface  of  the 
i’iiterranean  sea  is  always  lower  than  that  of  the  adjoining  Atlantic. 
Ie  same  causes,  viz.  great  evaporations,  tend  also  to  reduce  the 
q jintity  of  water  in  the  open  ocean  near  the  west  coast  of  Africa,  and 
xticularly  that  part  bordering  on  the  desert,  where  very  little  or  no 
".i  ever  falls,  and  the  smooth  surface  of  which,  baked  almost  as  hard 
* done  by  the  heat  of  a vertical  sun,  is  during  the  night  in  some  de- 

51 


402 


APPENDIX. 


gree  refreshed  by  the  strong  winds  and  vapours  which  come  from  | 
sea,  as  before  noticed,  These  reasons,  together  with  the  tacts  wh| 

I have  before  stated,  demonstrate  to  my  u derstanding,  satisfactcrr! 
that  iu  the  offing  all  along  this  coast,  the  water  must  incline  towa| 
it,  contrary  to  any  general  principle  ot  currents;  and  this  is  prov . 
if  any  doubt  did  exist,  by  the  vast  number  of  vessels  that  have  f(  1 
time  to  time  been  wrecked  on  these  wild  and  inhospitable  shores,  g*j 
rally  near  Cape  Nun,  aud  from  thence  to  Cape  Bajador,  and  as | 
south  as  Cape  de  Yerd.  Ships  from  Europe,  bound  round  the  soi  l 
ern  capes  of  Africa  aud  America,  generally  stop  at  Madeira  or  Til 
riffe  for  refreshments,  and  are  not  uulrequently  obliged  to  run  lot  [}! 
deira  a!Dr  they  get  in  its  latitude,  and  their  reckoning  by  account 
up  one,  and  sometimes  two  degrees  westward  beiore  they  find  1 1 
island;  when,-  had  they  kept  on  the  courses  wnich  they  would  natui 
ly  have  steered  to  reach  Teneriffe,  they  would  have  been  sucked  lit 
eirawu  in  by  the  current  between  Lauzarote  and  Cape  Cantin,  |t 
driven  ashore  near  Cape  Nud,  before  they  could  suspect  they  ll 
reached  the  latitude  ot  that  island,  and  iu  the  firm  belief  that  il 
were  near  the  longitude  ot  Teneriffe,  and  consequently  two  huud  j 
and  fifty  miles  from  .the  coast  where  they  in  fact  are,  and  where  i 
human  effort  can  save  them  from  either  perishing  in  the  sea,  or 
coming  slaves  to  the  Bereberies,  Moors,  or  Arabs,  who  inhabit  i i 
country.  Most  merchant  vessels  steer  courses  that,  ought  to  ca 
them  within  sight  of  the  Canary  Islands  when  bound  to  the  south w.  I 
or  from  the  strait  of  Gibraltar  ; they  generally  experience  a soulhel 
current  after  passing  the  latitude  of  Cape  Blanco,  and  have  a fair  wjji 
when  near  the  coast,  with  thick  hazy  weather,  so  that  they  can| 
get  an  altitude  of  the  sun  : this  is  a sure  sign  tiiey  are  iu  the  south* 
current,  over  which  hangs  a vapour  similar  to  that  observed  over  !| 
Gulf  Stream  near  the  American  continent,  and  when  these  porteudji 
signs  occur,  they  should  stand  directly  off  W.  N.  W.  or  N.  W ui|| 
they7  reach  (he  longitude  of  Madeira,  aod  never  pass  the  latitude 
Teneriffe  or  Palma,  without  seeing  oue  of  them.  Near  these  islal 
the  atmosphere  is  more  clear,  and  they  can  be  seen  from  sixty  tori' 
hundred  miles  distant  in  clear  weather.  I am  particular  in  advis! 
those  ship-masters  who  are  bound  that  wTay,  by  ail  means  to  make 
island  of  Madeira;  it  takes  them  but  a little  out  of  their  route,  a 
from  whence  they  will  be  sure  of  making  Teneriffe  or  Palma,  in  ste 
ing  the  regular  courses,  when  by7  due  precaution  against  indrattg 
southward  of  those  islands,  they  avoid  the  dangers  of  this  tenii 
coast,  and  the  dreadful  sufferings  or  deaths  which  aw'ait  all  that 
so  unfortunate  as  to  be  wrecked  on  them  : I have  learned  from  a lc| 
experience  in  trading  aud  navigating  from  Europe  as  well  as  Anieriij 
to  the  Madeira  and  Canary  Islands,  to  the  coast  of  Brazil  and  Sou] 
America  in  general,  thence  northward  across  the  southern  A) Sant 
ail  along  thp  coast  of  Guyanna  and  Terra  Firroa,  from  the  river  An| 
zon  to  the  Bay  of  Honduras,  through  the  passages  between  Timid 
and  fhe  Main,  Cape  Catocbe  and  the  island  of  Cuba — in  the  gull  I 
Mexico,  and  iu  the  Missisippi  river,  to  Cuba; — through  the  G 


APPENDIX. 


403 


tieam  backwards  and  forwards— -along  the  coasts  of  Florida  to  and 
jin  different  ports  in  the  United  States,  thence  to  and  from  all  the  West- 
I lia  islands,  and  to  and  from  almost  every  part  of  Europe,  aud  1 can 
afert,  without  fear  of  contradiction  from  any  practical  man,  that  the 
p ticular  currents  I have  here  mentioned  do  in  -reality  exist  in  all 
tise  parts  of  the  ocean.  I have  endeavoured  to  find  out  their  causes, 
at  now  give  the  reader  those  I judge  to  be  the  correct  oues.  I pre- 
side no  man  ever  took  more  pains  to  examine  and  ascertain  the  facts 
onwhich  this  theory  is  founded  ; having  tried  the  currents  whenever 
i i'ad  an  opportunity,  in  different  parts  of  the  Atlantic,  and  very  few 
np  .nave  had  better  opportunities : how  far  T have  succeeded,  must 
nr  after  be  determined. 

Then  I took  my  departure  from  Cape  Spartei,  bound  to  the  Caps 
i v’erd  Islands,  on  my  last  voyage,  I steered  W.  N.  W.  by  compass, 
ujd  that  Cape  bore  E.  S.  E.  distant  ten  or  twelve  leagues,  to  give 
tr, coast  a good  birth  ; then  I shaped  my  course  W.  S.  W.  and  took 
:&  to  have  the  vessel  always  steered  a little  westward  of  her  course 
-ire  was  a very  fast  sailer,  and  steered  extremely  easy,  and  what 
its  she  did  vary  from  her  course  was  to  the  westward  : we  had  a 
ojtant  fair  wiod,  and  generally  a good  breeze,  and  were  only  three 
las  northward  of  the  Canary  Islands.  I Siad  frequently  tried  tire 
-ojpasses  on  the  outward  bound  passage,  and  found  them  to  be  cor- 
ref,  their  variation  being  uo  more  than  is  generally  calculated,  i.  e. 
aej’ly  two  points  about  the  straits  of  Gibraltar;  I therefore  made  all 
h allowance  I could  suppose  necessary,  and  im  courses  steered 
ujit  to  have  carried  my  vessel  to  the  west  r ai  d of  Teoeriffe;  but  I 
v:  near  the  coast,  and  the  indraught  so  strong,  setting  at  the  rate  of 
it  past  two  miles  an  hour  E.  S-  E.  or  two  and  a half  S.  E.  that  my 
eel  was  carried  by  it  out  of  her  course  in  three  days  nearly  two 
u dred  miles  directly  east  broad-side  towards  Africa,  and  she  must 
in?  entered  the  passage  between  Lanzarote  and  Fuertaventura  fthe 
a:°rnmost  of  the  Canaries)  and  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  so  far  from 
tro  islands  that  we  could  not  discover  them,  though  the  island  of 
hVrtaventura  is  very  high.  The  current  here  ran  more  to  the  south, 
avjeping  my  vessel  along  with  great  rapidhy  towards  Cape  Nun  and 
n coast — but  my  course  being  so  far  westward,  I was  carried  by  the 
if>  of  the  current,  which  is  turned  by  the  coast  to  S.  W.  near  to  the 
till  of  Cape  Bajador,  before  I could  suppose  it  was  possible  that  we 
ve  near  it. 

)f  the  great  number  of  vessels  wrecked  on  this  part  of  the  coast, 
7ty  few  get  as  far  down ; ‘'almost  all  go  on  shore  near  Cape  Nun,  and 
k ire  they  believe  themselves  in  the  latitude  of  Lanzarote,  being 
Invn  in  by  this  fatal  current  and  indraught,  when  they  think  they 
u far  to  the  westward,  and  are  many  times  on  the  look-nut  for  Ten- 
;iFe.  The  weather  is  always  extremely  thick  and  foggy  along  this 
:ist  within  the  vortex  of  this  current.  If  the  crews  of  vessels,  even 
d he  day  time  discover  land  Jo  leeward,  westward  of  Santa  Cruz 
S'Berberia,  as  it  tends  in  some  places  nearly  east  and  west,  having 
i]  ays  a strong  wind,  swell,  and  current,  right  on  shore,  and  a tret 


404 


APPENDIX. 


mendous  sea  rolling  on,  it  is  next  to  impossible  for  the  fastest  saile  . 
escape  total  destruction  by  running  on  shore,  where  the  crew  nj;, 
either  miserably  perish  iu  the  sea,  starve  to  death  after  landing, » 
massacred  by,  or  become  slaves  to  the  ferocious  inhabitants,  then*; 
savage  race  of  men,  perhaps,  to  be  found  iu  the  universe.  Til; 
barbarians  know  and  obey  no  law  but  their  own  will;  their  avail 
alone  sometimes  prompts  them  to  save  the  lives  of  their  fellow  marl 
when  in  the  deepest  distress,  in  the  hope  of  gaining  by  the  sale,  \\ 
labour,  or  the  future  ransom  of  their  captives,  whom,  they  say,  (|| 
has  placed  in  their  hands  as  a reward  for  some  of  their  virtues  or  g 
actions ; and  as  it  is  a sacred  duty  they  owe  to  themselves,  as  we! 
to  the  Supreme  Being,  to  make  the  most  they  can  by  them.  Not 
than  six  American  vessels  are  known  to  have  been  lost  on  this  par  \ 
the  coast  since  the  year  1800,  besides  numbers  of  English,  Freni; 
Spanish,  Portuguese,  &c.  which  are  also  known  to  have  been  tvre1 
ed  there,  and  no  doubt  many  other  vessels  that  never  have  been  he|j! 
from — but  it  is  only  Americans  and  Englishmen  that  are  ever  he;; 
from  after  the  first  news  of  the  shipwreck.  The  French,  Span;, 
Portuguese,  and  Italian  governments,  it  is  said,  seldom  ransom  tl 
unfortunate  shipwrecked  subjects,  and  they  are  thus  doomed  to  || 
petual  slavery  and  misery — no  friendly  hand  is  ever  stretched  fortl I 
relieve  their  distresses  and  to  heal  their  bleeding  wounds,  nor  i' 
voice  of  humanity  to  soothe  their  bitter  pangs;  till  worn  out  v 
sufferings  indescribable,  they  resign  their  souls  to  the  God  who  gi 
them,  and  launch  into  the  eternal  world  with  pleasure,  as  deatl 
the  only  relief  from  their  sufferings. 

I cannot  omit  to  inform  my  readers,  that  on  the  1st  of  Januaj 
1816,  when  iu  Mogadore,  I went  in  company  with  Mr.  Willshire, 
pay  a complimentary  visit  to  Don  Estevan  Leonardi,  an  old  man|| 
Genoese  by  birth,  who  had  lived  a long  time  in  Mogadore — he  if, 
I was  informed,  exercised  the  functions  of  French  Vice-Consul  th 
for  a number  of  years — he  received  us  with  the  compliments  of  i 
season ; congratulating  me  coldly  on  my  redemption  from  slaver ; 
inquired  some  particulars,  &c.  <fec.  after  which,  and  when  we  t" 
refresher}  ourselves  with  a glass  of  wine,  he  told  me,  that  “ about  llj 
years  1810,  11,  he  received  a long  letter  from  Suse,  brought  toll 
by  an  Arab,  written  by  a Frenchman  : this  stated  that  the  writer  aji 
another  Frenchman,  whom  he  named,  had  escaped  from  a prison  | 
Teneriffe  a few  weeks  previously,  where  they  had  been  long  confinj 
as  prisoners  of  war ; that  they  stole  an  open  boat  in  the  night,  a 
set  sail  in  the  hope  of  escaping  from  the  Spaniards,  who  had  treat 
them  with  great  harshness  and  cruelty  ; that  they  steered  to  the  eaf 
ward,  expecting  to  land  on  the  coast  of  Morocco,  where  they  trust 
they  might  regain  their  liberty,  and  get  home  through  the  aid  of  til 
French  Consuls ; that  they  made  the  coast  of  Suse,  and  landed  a f«|i 
leagues  below  Santa  Cruz  or  Agader,  after  great  sufferings  and  bar 
ships,  where  they  were  seized  on  as  slaves,  and  stripped  naked  ; ai 
the  letter  concluded  by  begging  of  him  to  ransom  them,  and  thus  sa'jj 
the  lives  of  two  unfortunate  men,  who  must  otherwise  soon  peris 


APPENDIX. 


405 


toi, fee.— but  said  Leonardi,  I had  no  orders  from  the  Consul-Gene- 
■al  j.  expend  money  on  account  of  his  government,  and  accordingly 
r aded  the  Arab  who  brought  the  letter  to  stop  with  me  a few  days 
l price  was  two  hundred  dollars  for  the  two,  and  he  was  their  sole 

0 ietor.  In  the  mean  time  I sent  off  a courier  express  to  Tangier, 

1 rders  from  the  Consul-General,  who  returned  at  the  end  of  thirty- 
delays,  with  leave  to  pay  one  hundred  dollars  a man  for  them,  but 

‘her  expenses.  The  Arab  stayed  fifteen  days  with  me,  and  then 
u led  home  in  disgust;  he  could  not  believe  I would  ransom  them, 
jlid  not  do  it  immediately  ; but  rvhen  my  express  returned  from 
a ier,  giving  me  leave  to  buy  them,  I sent  a Jew  down  with  the 
3 y to  pay  their  ransom,  but  when  he  came  to  their  master,  he 
jii  not  sell  them  at  his  former  price,  for  he  said  he  had  found 
^ to  be  mechanics,  and  demanded  three  hundred  dollars  for  the 

0 or  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  each.  The  Jew  said  he  saw 
sien;  they  were  naked,  hard  at  work,  aud  appeared  to  be  much 

1 usted,  very  miserable,  and  dejected  : — he  might  have  bought  one 
r ae  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  but  would  not,  as  he  had  no  orders 
< so.  When  the  Jew  was  about  to  return,  their  master  told  him  if 

ie  efit  away  without  the  men,  and  the  Consul  wanted  them,  he  must 
your  hundred  dollars  for  them: — now  on  the  Jew’s  arrival  at 
oidore  with  this  news,  (continued  Leonardi,)  I sent  off  another 
{ness  to  Tangier,  who  brought  back  leave  to  pay  the  four  hundred 
>l|rs,  at  the  same  time  cautioned  me  not  to  make  any  further  ex- 
irfes  on  their  account.  I sent  down  the  four  hundred  dollars  to  Suse 
;aji,  and  ordered  the  messenger  to  buy  one,  if  he  could  not  get 
it;  but  their  master  said  he  had  been  played  with  and  deceived 
that  time  ; that  if  I wanted  them,  I must  pa y Jive  hundred  dollars, 
juhat  he  would  then  escort  them  up  to  Swearah,  and  be  answerable 
■their  safety  until  they  arrived  there,  but  he  would  not  take  the 
w hundred  dollars,  nor  would  he  separate  them  ; and  so  the  mes- 
arjer  returned  without  them.  I have  expended  (said  he)  about  two 
aired  dollars  that  I shall  never  get  again,  and  I suppose  the  men 
reiead,  as  I have  not  heard  from  them  since.”  This,  if  not  in  the 
r ise  words,  was  the  substance  of  what  he  said,  and  I could  scarcely 
j >ress  the  indignation  I felt  at  this  recital,  nor  avoid  contrasting 
ubehaviour  of  this  man  with  that  of  my  noble  friend  Willshire. 

. 5 old  man  is  very  rich  ; has  no  family  but  himself,  and  is  one  of 
i most  zealous  Christians,  in  professions  at  least,  in  Barbary;  but  a 

0 id  wretch,  who  never  knew  the  pleasure  arising  from  the  con- 
c usness  of  having  done  a good  deed. 

f bile  I remained  at  Mogadore,  a schooner  arrived  there,  as  1 have 
'ore  observed,  from  Gibraltar : she  was  a Genoese  vessel,  but 
H’d  under  English  colours,  as  the  king  of  Sardinia  was  at  war 
r ? all  the  Barbary  powers,  or  at  least  they  were  at  war  with  him  : 

1 captain,  officers,  and  crew,  were  Genoese  and  Spaniards.  She 
i;  been  more  than  twenty  days  on  her  passage  from  Gibraltar, 
ring  been  carried  by  the  current  down  the  coast  below  Santa  Cruz 
^Agader.  The  captain  told  me  he  must  inevitably  have  gone  ashore 


406 


APPENDIX. 


near  Cape  Nun,  had  not  Godin  Ids  mercy  favoured  him  with  a si 
wind,  out  of  the  usual  course  of  nature,  on  that  coast,  when  he 
close  to  the  laud  : he  had  been  beating  for  three  days  against  the  i| 
wind,  nearing  the  coast  every  day,  and  could  not  fetch  off  either  ] 
though  his  vessel  was  a fast  sailer,  and  only  in  ballast  trim, 
arrived  at  Mo£adore  about  the  1st  of  December,  alter  the  win(l» 
been  blowing  strong,  with  some  rain  froth  the  south,  for  four  dayifj 
is  only  in  December  and  January  that  these  winds  occur,  and  al  l/ 
bring  a storm  with  them,  either  of  wind  or  rain:  this  schooner |t 
the  vessel  in  which  my  second  mate  and  three  men  went  round  'i[ 
Mogadore  to  Gibraltar. 

As  the  geography  of  that  part  of  Africa  lying  in  the  equatorial 
gions  eastward  of  that  extensive  ridge  of  mountains  which  horde  | 
western  coast  from  the  latitude  18  N.  to  the  Congo  river,  and  tit 
ward  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  in  which  the  Nile  has  its  sou |s 
has  excited  much  speculation  and  interest  in  the  learned  world,  (thi  || 
it  does  not  come  strictly  within  my  province,)  I will,  nevertht  i 
make  a few  brief  observations  on  the  practicability  of  explcii 
those  hitherto  unknown  countries,  in  the  hope  that  they  may  here  j 
be  useful.  And  first,  it  is  my  decided  opinion,  that  no  Europe:  i 
civilized  armed  force,  however  large  or  well  appointed,  can 
penetrate  far  mto  the  interior  of  these  wild  and  dismal  recessed 
land,  either  from  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  ocean,  or  the  Mediterra  i 
sea;  because  an  army  on  such  an  expedition,  would  not  only  hav [ 
encounter  powerful  hosts  of  savage  enemies  at  every  turn,  and  und  i 
the  severest  privations,  fatigues,  and  hardships,  but  would  bes  3 
have  to  encounter  the  raging  heat  of  this  scorching  climate,  surpasli 
anything  they  may  ever  have  experienced,  and  the  pestilential  - 
orders  incident  thereto : — tlmse  circumstances  taken  together,  ci| 
scarcely  fail  to  produce  its  total  annihilation  in  a short  period,  jj 
thus  frustrate  the  boldest  and  best  planned  military  attempt. — Indi  ]- 
mat  bravery,  enterprise,  skill,  and  prudence,  in  the  ordinary  w , 
by  travelling  unprotected,  are;  also,  in  mv  opinion,  entirely  unecjjl 
to  the  task,  and  such  enterprises  must,  I think,  always  prove  aborti; 
Something  might,  perhaps,  be  done  by  black  travellers,  native* ! 
that  country,  tutored  expressly  for  that  purpose,  and  sent  off  sin| 
from  different  stations  and  on  different  routes  ; but  owing  to  their  cl 
fined  education,  and  particular  train  of  ideas,  nothing  very  value : 
could  be  expected  from  their  researches.  Steam  Boats,  strong! vbii) 
and  of  a suitable  construction,  well  armed  and  appointed,  might  ascf 
the  river  Congo,  (which  I am  induced  from  many  considerations 
believe  is  the  outlet  of  the  river  Niger,)  and  traffic  up  that  rivjj 
making  important  discoveries  ; but  the  whole  of  their  officers,  as  w| 
as  all  the  men  employed  on  board  them,  should  first  be  inured  to  sn 
climates,  and  be  persons  accustomed  to  fatigues,  privations,  hardshi 
and  sufferings;  arid,  above  all,  should  be  guided  by  the  greatest  <! 
gree  of  human  prudence.  A plain  arid  very  simple  method  for  visiti 
Tombuctoo  in  safety,  arid  returning  again,  might  be  pointed  out  lj| 
either  the  American  or  English  Consuls  residing  at  Tangier,  Algie 


— — ~ 


appp:ndix. 


407 


ujs,  or  Tripoli ; — to  accomplish  this  journey,  the  traveller,  after 
ir  duly  qualified,  has  only  to  become  a slave  by  his  own  consent, 
d secret  understanding  with  his  hired  master;  beiBg  bargained 
f by  the  Consul  to  one  of  the  principal  merchants  trading  to. that 
iin  the  yearly  caravans,  and  ivho  might  be  induced  to  enter  into 
3 [roject  for  an  ample  remuneration. 


A 


NARRATIVE 

I 

^ •’  >• 

OF  THE 

I 

Hirawmsro  ©3“  ®ns  n ®§w@©©» 

gw 

PX  TEE 

COAST  OF  SOUTH  BARBARY, 

AND  OF  TEE 


i SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  MASTER  AND  THE  CREW 

WHILE  IN  BONDAGE  AMONG  THE  ARABS; 

INTERSPERSED  WITH 

V AEROUS  REMARKS  UPON  THE  COUNTRY  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS, 

AND  CONCERNING  TnE 

PECULIAR  PERILS  OF  THAT  COAST. 

BY  JUDAH  PADDOCK. 

HER  LATE  MASTER. 


MEW- YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  COLLINS  & CO.  189  PEART,- STREET 

J.  Seymour,  printer. 


5 818, 


Southern  District  of  New-York,  ss, 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  Thai  on  the  twenty-fifth  day  of  April,  it 
forty-Fpeond  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  Ame:i 
/ \ Judah  Paddock , of  the  said  District,  hath  deposited  in  this  office  the t 

•/  of  a Book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims  as  author  and  proprietor,  ii  t 
words  following,  to  wit : 

‘■'•A  Narrative  of  the  Shipwreck  of  the  Ship  Oswego,  on  the  Coast  of  South  Bart\t 
and  of  the  Sufferings  of  the  Master  and  the  Crew  while  in  bondage  among  the  A) 
interspersed  with  numerous  remarks  upon  the  country  and  its  inhabitants,  and 
rerning  the  peculiar  perils  of  that  coast.  By  Judah  Paddock , her  late  Master 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  (he  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled  “ An  Ar  t 
the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Booh 
the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time  therein  mentioned  i 
also  to  an  Act,  entitled  “ An  Act  supplementary  to  an  Act  entitled  an  Act  for  the  r 
couragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books  to: 
authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and i 
tending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and  etching  histo  ; 
and  other  prints,” 


JAMES  DILL, 

Clerk  of  the  Southern.  District  of  New-Yon 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


am  so  far  from  ever  wishing  to  appear  before  the  pub- 
fin  the  character  of  an  author,  that  l had  all  along  re- 
ifsd  the  importunities  of  very  many  of  my  friends,  who, 
i|ft  time  to  time,  earnestly  requested  me  to  write,  and 
i dish  a narrative  of  the  wreck  of  the  Ship  Oswego,  and 
the  subsequent  sufferings  of  myself  and  crew  among  the 
|1  Arabs.  At  last  I have  been  prevailed  upon  to  do  it ; 
r am  encouraged  with  the  hope  that  my  narrative  will 
id  with  candour,  and  be  of  some  benefit  to  mankind 
eerally,  and  more  especially  to  sea-faring  men  exposed 
»he  like  awful  calamities. 

laving  had  but  merely  a common  education,  and  being 
accustomed  to  composition,  I could  tell  my  story  only 
u plain  way,  without  any  of  the  ornaments  of  flowery 
apiage:  or,  had  I procured  any  one  to  dress  it  up  for 
a in  a fashionable  style,  it  would  be  imposing  upon  the 
tolic  as  my  own,  a thing  not  mine  in  reality, 
knother  disadvantage  I am  under,  and  a great  one ; the 
a,t  important  of  my  notes,  and  all  the  letters  on  the  oc- 
:;ion,  are  lost;  so  that  from  memory  chiefly  must  this 
lirative  appear:  a circumstance  that  will  be  full  likely 
occasion  doubts  of  its  correctness  in  the  minds  of  some 
fthe  readers.  But  I entreat  such  to  consider  that  the 
stressful  and  terrible  scenes  1 passed  through,  made  a 
ay  deep  impression  upon  my  memory,  and  that  scarcely 
\ /eek,  or  even  a single  day,  has  since  gone  by,  in  which 
\ ave  not  been  revolving  some  or  other  of  their  parts  in 
l mind : by  which  means  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  still 
far  and  distinct  to  my  recollection,  like  the  things  of 
f ;terday. 

have  only  to  add : it  is  no  part  of  my  object  to  enrich 
a:  self  by  means  of  this  publication ; the  clear  profits  from 
st  (should  there  be  any,)  are  to  go  otherwise  than  to  my 
on  private  emolument. 

JUDAH  PADDOCK. 

Hudson , July  23, 1 81 8. 


LETTERS 


and 


New-York,  29th  October,  1317, 

SIR, 

The  Narrative  of  Capt.  James  Riley  has' excited  uncommon  in, 
test;  and  as  there  are  some  persons,  who,  ignorant  of  his  excel- 
kt  character,  doubt  the  general  correctness  of  his  story,  and  others 
no  disbelieve  the  authenticity  of  particular  parts,  I have  been- 
u eel  by  several  respectable  gentlemen,  who,  together  with  myself, 
nose  the  utmost  confidence  in  your  candour  and  veracity,  and  who 
ire  been  a long  time  acquainted  with  the  respectability  of  your 
lading  in  society,  to  solicit  from  you  a statement  of  your  sufferings 
a 1 adventures  in  a similar  situation;  and  ! am  persuaded,  that, 
iiependently  of  the  gratification  which  it  will  afford,  and  the  in- 
flation which  it  will  convey,  there  will  be  a sufficient  inducement, 
ven  you  understand  that  a compliance  with  this  request  may  ren- 
essential  service  to  a deserving  fellow-citizen,  and  greatly  pro- 
lie  the  cause  of  truth. 

1 am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

DE  WITT  CLINTON. 

Captain  Judah  Paddock , 


Hudson,  25th  November,  1817- 
To  De  Witt  Clinton.  Esq.  Governor  of  the  State  of  New-York . 

ESTEEMED  FRIEND, 

Thy  favour  of  29th  ult.  came  to  my  hands  a few  days  since,  by  a 
i vate  conveyance.  Its  contents  I notice.  It  gave  me  great  sa- 
nction to  find  Capt.  Riley  has  such  friends  as  the  Governor  of 


VI 

the  State,  as  also  many  of  its  most  respectable  citizens,  to  aid  a 
assist  him  in  his  great  and  worthy  undertaking,  so  far  as  to  gi 
currency  to  it  after  diligent  examination  as  to  its  facts.  His  N:  • 
rative  of  Shipwreck  I have  carefully  perused  the  third  time  throuj, 
and  am  ready  to  say  every  part  of  that  which  came  within  my  kno 
ledge  is  correct,  or  substantially  so.  Were  I to  have  told  my  ste- 
in my  own  way,  we  might  have  differed  in  some  points,  which  woi 
not  have  gone  to  discredit  his  assertions.  I was  wrecked  on 
same  coast,  and  drank  of  the  same  bitter  cup  of  affliction.  All  < • 
sufferings  were  nearly  of  the  same  kind.  Perhaps  no  one  in  our  ble 
ed  land  has  it  in  his  power  to  say  so  much  in  behalf  of  this  injured  ir  i 
as  I have ; therefore  I should  tax  myself  with  ingratitude  to  be  ■ 
lent,  more  particularly  when  solicited  by  so  many  respectable  p • 
sonages  that  have  written  me  to  give  an  opinion  of  his  work.  I s , 
injured  man,  as  doubting  the  authenticity  of  the  work  is  an  injury  wh  i 
he  must  feel  sensibly,  being  to  a great  expense,  without  funds,  and  t 
likely  to  be  very  well  remunerated  for  all  his  expenses  and  troul, 
f have  but  little  personal  acquaintance  with  Capt.  Riley;  from  tt 
little,  and  from  what  I learn  from  those  who  have  long  known  hirll 
believe  him  to  be  a man  of  strict  integrity,  and  worthy  of  pub 
confidence.  Thee  solicits  a statement  of  my  sufferings  in  that  inffl 
pitable  clime.  I would  most  readily  comply  with  that  request,  lil 
I confidence  in  my  own  ability  to  do  justice  to  the  public  in  the  ili 
hibition  of  it.  It  is  a long  time  since  the  occurrence  took  pla. 
Having  made  at  the  time  but  few  minutes  of  the  important  facts,  s 
body  of  it  must  be  from  recollection.  As  Capt.  Riley  took  his  nos 
at  the  moment,  and  being  better  qualified  for  the  task  than  mys 
I dare  not  venture  to  write  a book  on  the  same  ground;  bul 
would  permit  him  to  affix  some  observations  of  mine  to  his  work,  3 
an  Appendix,  could  I think  it  so  important  for  the  public  good  as  t 
friends  have  generally  thought,  since  Riley’s  Narrative  made  its  :|- 
pearance.  Should  thee  wish  further  information  from  me,  I hd 
myself  read}'-  to  reply  to  any  communication  thee  wishes  to  make. 

Thy  friend, 


JUDAH  PADDOCK 


VII 


New-York,  11th  mo.  IS,  1817. 

ESTEEMED  FRIEND, 

Recollecting  the  lively  impressions  which  a verbal  narrative  of 
ft  sufferings  and  hardship  experienced  by  thyself  and  crew  on  the 
ci. st  of  Africa,  produced  on  my  feelings  during  a visit  at  Hudson 
k:  summer,  and  reflecting  also  on  the  information  thy  story  em- 
b ced  relative  to  the  nature  and  state  of  the  country,  and  of  the 
c toms  and  manners  of  the  Arabs,  I have  wished  sincerely  that  an 
a ount  of  those  events,  and  the  general  results  of  observations  made 
:rA.frica,  drawn  up  by  thyself  from  thy  own  notes,  might  be  sub- 
trted  to  the  public.  The  civilized  world  is  now  looking  towards 
'It  country  with  increasing  intei*est,  and  any  genuine  information 
: . hardly  fail  to  be  favourably  received.  I can  assure  thee  that  a 
o dication  of  thy  Narrative  would  exceedingly  gratify  me,  as  well 
a i number  of  thy  other  friends  in  this  city.  I have  been  for  some 
he  well  acquainted  with  Capt.  Riley,  and  believe  him  to  be  a man 
^strict  integrity,  and  fully  deserving  the  confidence  of  the  public  ; 
b as  there  are  some  in  every  community  who  are  more  or  less  im 
odulous,  with  respect  to  circumstances  out  of  the  road  of  common 
eoerience,  a publication  of  the  occurrences  which  befel  thyself  and 
C w on  the  same  soil,  and  among  the  same  people,  would,  from  the 
1.1-known  respectability  of  thy  character,  add  strength  to  the  testi- 
any  of  Capt.  Riley,  and  tend  to  the  removal  of  doubts  which  some 
ire  entertained  of  the  credibility  of  certain  parts  of  his  Narrative, 

I am;  with  great  regard  and  esteem, 

Thy  affectionate  friend, 

THOMAS  EDDY, 


Hudson,  25lh  November,  1317. 

ESTEEMED  FRIEND  THOMAS  EDDY, 

Thy  favour  of  18th  inst.  was  handed  to  me  on  the  22d,  by  a 
gitleman  travelling  northward  : the  contents  noticed.  On  the  sub- 
let of  my  shipwreck  on  the  coast  of  Barbary,  I do  not  think  myself 
equate  to  the  task  of  writing  a Narrative  of  it,  to  say,  such  an  one 
a the  the  public  might  anticipate  after  knowing  1 had  commenced 
i It  is  not  a gift  I am  endowed  with,  taking  into  view  my  inability 


Vlll 


to  do  justice  to  the  tiling,  and  that  Capt.  Riley,  to  whom,  in  my « 
nion,  implicit  confidence  can  be  given  relative  to  his  Narrative, 
far  as  has  come  within  my  knowledge,  (being  both  wrecked  on 
same  coast,  and  our  sufferings  nearly  the  same,)  and  from  what  li 
opportunity  I have  had  with  him  personally,  and  the  corresponde 
with  him  while  writing  his  first  edition,  I think  the  public  may  : 
assured  full  confidence  may  be  given  to  his  Narrative  genera 
Many  parts  could  not  be  expected  to  have  come  within  my  not 
which  of  course  1 must  be  silent  on.  While  he  was  writing  I 
Narrative,  which  interested  me  very  much,  I cautioned  him  to 
very  circumspect  on  every  point ; at  the  same  time  giving  hin 
understand,  if  injustice  was  done  the  thing,  he  might  expect  s< 
observations  on  it  that  might  be  disagreeable  to  him.  His  ansv 
were  prompt  and  gentlemanly.  In  the  mean  time,  before  the  b 
rative  was  made  public,  I took  every  opportunity  to  learn  his  c 
racter,  and  always  found  what  I now  believe  him  to  be,  a man  of 
racity  and  strict  integrity.  If  thee  and  others  of  my  friends  she 
think  that  what  I could  say  more  than  Capt.  Riley  has  said  on 
subject  would  be  advantageous  to  the  human  race,  I think  I wc 
endeavour  to  gratify  those  friends  and  the  public,  in  a brief  accci 
of  our  shipwreck  and  sufferings,  &c.  to  be  attached  as  an  Apj  t 
dix  to  another  edition  of  Capt.  Riley’s,  should  another  be  prim 
which  he  may  have  gratuitously  if  he  will  accept  it ; but  if  the  ab 
will  answer  as  a confirmation  (as  far  as  I know)  of  his  Narrative 
will  afford  me  the  greater  pleasure:  otherwise,  I will  exert  myjl 
and  tell  the  tale  just  as  it  transpired,  according  to  the  best  of  j 
ability,  as  painful  as  the  task  will  be.  Any  communication  fif 
thee  on  this  or  on  any  outer  subject,  shmi  be  attended  to,  oy 

Thy  real  friend, 

JUDAH  PADDOCK 


IX 


have  been  acquainted  with  Captain  Judah  Paddock  for  about 
vnty-five  years,  and  for  a considerable  portion  of  that  period,  we 
use  resided  in  the  same  town. 

, lapt.  Paddock’s  character  as  a man  of  high  probity  and  excel- 
e morals,  has  ever  been  unimpeached;  and  I have  no  hesitation 
raying,  that  he  is  entitled  to  full  faith  in  any  facts  which  he  may 

fte. 

AMBROSE  SPENCER, 

!A  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State  of  New-  York. 
Lpril  13th,  1318. 

■ . * 


> 

rom  a personal  acquaintance  with  Captain  Judah  Paddock,  of 
ire  than  thirty  3-ears  standing,  I am  enabled  to  state,  without  fear 
)1  ontradiction,  that  he  has  uniformly  sustained  a high  character 

0 probity  and  veracity,  and  that  any  statement  made  by  him  of 
as  coming  within  his  personal  knowledge,  is  entitled  to  the  most 
eire  credit. 

ELISHA  JENKINS, 

Mayor  of  the  City  of  Albany, 

1 Lpril  14th,  1318. 


’rom  an  acquaintance  with  the  author  of  the  following  pages  for 
my  years,  together  with  an  opportunity  afforded  me  of  knowing 
2 character  while  in  the  capacity  of  a ship-master  in  my  employ, 
1 ive  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  his  character,  as  a man  of  vera» 
• ' and  strict  integrity,  is  unimpeachable. 

ROBERT  JENKINS, 
Mayor  of  the  City  of  Hux^sgn, 

.v 


Since  to  me  alone  did  Captain  Judah  Paddock  commit  the  chaji 
of  revising  the  original  draught  of  his  Narrative,  and  preparing  t 
for  publication,  it  is  due  to  justice  to  say,  I account  him  no  less  - 
ally  and  substantially  the  author  of  the  Narrative  as  now  to  be  ofj 
ed  to  the  press,  than  if  none  but  himself  should  ever  have  see! j 
previously  to  its  going  into  the  hands  of  the  printer.  Whatej 
emendations  I have  attempted,  they  have  been  such  as  never  jg 
change  the  sense,  and  but  seldom  even  the  diction,  which  I she  ! 
have  been  disinclined  to  change  materially  if  full  licence  had  b 
granted  me, — well  persuaded  as  I am  that  a tale  of  such  deep 
.lively  interest  would  be  more  acceptable  if  told  in  the  identji 
phrase  and  very  words  of  the  respectable  man  who  had  person:  d 
borne  so  large  and  distressing  a part  in  the  whole  subject  ma) 
of  it. 

EZRA  SAMPSOh 

Hudson,  (N.  Y.)  May  2,  1818. 


This  is  to  certify,  that  I was  second  mate  of  the  ship  Oswci 
when  she  was  wrecked  on  the  coast  of  Barbary  ; that  I have  el 
mined  the  manuscript  of  Capt.  Paddock’s  Narrative,  and  have  t 
hesitation  in  saying  that  it  is  strictly  correct,  according  to  the  l, 
of  my  recollection. 

JOHN  CLARK 

Brooklyn,  26th  April,  1818. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 


• ioyage  from  New-York  to  Cork — Occurrences  there — Account  of  Pat,  orPa- 
k,  the  breeder  of  our  troubles — Occurrences  on  our  voyage  from  Cork  to  the 
]pe  de  Verds — Our  shipwreck  on  the  Coast  of  Barbary — Evil  advice  listened  to — 
.r  difficulties  and  peiils  in  getting  ashore — The  ghastly  scenery  there,  and  our  dis- 
jsful  apprehensions  - - - - - - - - - .......  Page  17 


CHAP.  II. 

wevices  and  efforts  for  getting  back  to  the  ship — Numerous  fragments  of  a re- 
ctly  wrecked  frigate — The  construction  of  a raft  from  them,  and  its  ill  suceess — 
C'  several  abortive  attempts  to  swim  to  the  ship — Our  successful  recourse  to  the 
ftuguese  method  of  swimming — The  landing  of  our  necessaries — Preparations  for 
miring  the  long  boat — The  mission  of  two  of  our  men  to  make  discoveries,  the 
o for  the  mountains,  and  the  other  for  the  Cape — The  return,  and  the  frightful 
si  y,  of  the  latter— Particulars  concerning  the  fragments  of  the  wreck,  that  were 
fflg  far  along  the  shore — Intoxication  of  Pat  and  his  watchmate,  while  they  were 
o he  watch — A nocturnal  visit  from  two  barefooted  Arabs— Our  alarm  and  coa- 
st nation  upon  the  discovery  of  this  by  their  tracks — preparations  for  our  departure 
feist.  Cruez — The  man  for  the  mountain  returns,  and  makes  report — Remarkable  in- 
s-ice of  gratitude  and  kindheartedness  in  Jack,  my  black  man  -----  26  . 

CHAP.  III. 

i powerful  emotions  on  taking  our  leave  of  the  ship — My  counsel  to  the  crew — 

0 alarming  discovery  of  numerous  tracks  of  travellers — Our  first  night  spent  in 
a markable  cave — The  painfulness  of  our  journey  over  sand  hills  and  sharp  peint- 
eitocks — A vast  bed  of  salt  mistaken  by  us  for  a pond — A groupe  of  untenanted 
lines  discovered  by  us — Description  of  them,  and  our  conjecture  concerning  their 
o in — Description  of  a fine  bay  in  which  we  bathed  ourselves — Appalling  disco- 
# of  a quantity  of  human  hair  in  a cask,  and  a heap  of  human  bones- — Our  annoy - 
ai;  in  the  night  time  by  the  near  approach  and  dismal  howlings  of  wild  beasts — 

P the  second  time  drunk  on  his  watch — The  mystery  unravelled  as  to  how  he 
one  by  his  liquor — The  inclination  of  the  crew  to  stone  him — My  remonstrance 
a inst  it — A horrid  tale  of  his  life  from  his  own  mouth — Marks  of  discontent  and 
nrness  among  the  crew — Disclosure  of  a settled  purpose  to  return  back — My  in- 
ti, dual  reasonings  and  entreaties  to  the  contrary — Our  affectionate  parting  ; my- 
st  and  three  of  my  men  proceeding  towards  St.  Cruez,  and  my  mate  and  the  eight 
3;  rs  going  back  for  the  ship  - -..-..----.----34 

CHAP.  IV. 


ure  of  six  of  the  other  ten 


1 ferociousness  of  their  attack. 

■ strip- 
-Their 

—The 

-We  are  hurried  back  to  the  wreck,  where  we  find 


3.11 


CONTENTS. 


a large  assemblage  of  the  natives — The  capture  of  the  remaining  four  of  our  mei . 
Leaving  these  four  at  the  wreck,  they  travel  off  with  the  remaining  ten — The  . 
tremity  of  our  hunger  and  thirst,  the  latter  being  the  most  intolerable — In  our  . 
treme  hunger  and  thirst,  we  feed  deliciously  on  the  raw  moist  guts  of  an  animal  - ; 

CHAP.  V. 

Our  half  burial,  in  our  sleep,  under  the  drifting  sand — My  Arab  master  springs  itf 
ously  upon  me,  and  strips  me  of  my  body-clothes — Our  power  of  swallowing  L 
pended  by  our  parching  thirst — The  kindly  efforts  of  black  Sam  in  my  behalf—!} 
thirst  slaked  at, a pond  of  putrid  water — Its  description — The  bloated  appear;  e 
of  theireamel  after  his  drinking — The  dismalness  of  our  night-lodging — A pate  |( 
barley  in  the  milk  ravenously  devoured  by  us — The  punctiliousness  of  the  Araljii 
their  devotions,  as  well  as  constancy  in  their  villanies,  regularly  praying,  cheat  , 
robbing,  and  murdering,  by  turns — Instance  of  the  incomparable  worth  of  cool  !• 
ter  to  the  thirsty — Our  rencontre  with  hundreds  of  Arabian  horsemen  and  food  , 
who  search  us  for  money,  and  conduct  us  in  triumph  to  a tented  tribe — Our  intol  t 
ble  sufferings  there,  from  the  heat,  from  the  throng,  and  from  thirst — Our  introij. 
tion  to  George,  an  English  youth  in  slavery — Hi?  joy  at  seeing  us — His  hagga « 
appearance— -His  affectionate  behaviour  to  us — His  interesting  story — A sutnn  j 
of  our  sufferings  incur  five  days’ travel  - - - - - ------- 

CHAP.  VI. 

Our  discoverv  among  this  tribe  of  two  enslaved  boys  belonging  to  England,  nanjs 
Jack  and  Laura,  the  latter  a mulatto  of  excellent  sense  and  disposition — 'IM 
great  use  to  us  as  interpreters — The  ill  character  given  me  of  Jack,  by  George  jii 
Laura — My  ineffectual  efforts  to  find  out  where  lay  Swearah,  the  Arabic  naim| 
Mogadore — Arrival  of  Ahamed,  the  chief  of  the  tribe — Our  exposure  to  sale- < 
men  of  the  tribe  throng  around  and  appraise  us — Ahamed  interceded  with,  | 
prevailed  upon  to  buy  us — The  cutting  taunt  upon  the  Christians  for  their  negro  se 
trade — A ferocious  dispute  and  scuffle  for  my  coat — Our  old  masters  depart,  cs'i 
ing  away  with  them  our  two  black  men — Description  of  the  number,  the  van: 
complexion,  and  the  featuies  of  that,  tribe — The  number  of  their  flocks,  and  |jj 
managed — The  process  of  their  milkingjand  butter  making— A piece  of  quack  vf 
allotted  me,  much  against  my  grain — Reasons  for  the  decrease  of  our  cravings  | 
water — Surpassing  beauty  of  the  Arabian  horses — Preparations  of  the  tribe  foil 
moving  their  quarters — The  articles  of  their  baggage 

CHAP.  VII; 

Arrival  oftbe  tribe  at’ their  new  quarters — A smoking  bout — Description  of  th'etrpis 
their  manner  of  smoking,  and  their  custom  of  story  telling — The  commission  s 
murder,  by  an  Arab,  upon  the  body  of  his  wife — His  (rial  for  it,  and  the  penall  i 
suffered — His  re-marriage — The  wedding  scene — A.  feat  of  horsemanship— Desc  i. 
tion  of  the  horses,  their  trappings,  and  the  dexterity  of  the  horsemen — The  form  i 
shape  of  an  Arabian  horse  shoe — Their  shooting  at  a mark — Our  clouded  prosp  1: 
respecting  our  ransom — Our  employ  at  needle  work — Our  journey  to  AbanO 
grain  field— Our  arrival  atthe  tents  of  another  tribe  of  Arabs — Their  manner  o’- 
ceiving  strangers — Their  customary  salutations— Their  boastful  pride— How  1 j 
educate  their  boys — Their  utter  contempt,  of  their  females — Their  regular  praye- 
The  form  of  prayer  commonly  used  by  Jack’s  mistress — The  inestimable  blessirji) 
a good  appetite — The  reproachful  and  contemptuous  remarks  of  the  Arabs  betvjj 
themselves,  upon  the  Christian  nations  -------------  1 

CHAP.  VIII. 

Progress  in  our  journey — A reservoir  on  our  way— A description  of  i(— An  accou 
the  heaps  of  stones,  and  the  custom  of  the  Arabs  of  throwing  each  a stone  tjju 
every  heap  they  pass  by — The  supposed  cause  of  these  piles— Our  distressful  su  r 


CONTENTS. 


X1U 


its  with  thirst  and  hunger- — We  see,  for  the  first  time,  an  inhabited  dwelling  in  the 
m of  a house,  and  a large  field  of  barley— Our  entry  upon  the  borders  of  a fertile 
untry,  and  our  arrival  at  last  to  a vast  barley-field,  owned  by  Ahamed — The  set- 
d resolution  with  us  not  to  work  in  it,  and  our  reasons  for  this — How  we  managed 
with  the  Ishmaelites,  and  obtained  our  end — The  expedient  of  Pat  to  get  clear  of 
irk,  and  to  fill  his  belly — The  attempt  to  starve  us  to  a compliance — We  march  off 
a body,  and  are  overtaken  bjr  the  Arabs  with  loaded  muskets,  and  threatened 
th  instant  death — We  are  conducted  by  them  to  a house  owned  by  Ahamed,  where 
f sister  boards  us  by  the  week — A description  of  that  tenement  and  its  two  princi- 
1 tenants — The  employments  we  were  there  put  to — We  are  Lodged  in  a goat-pen, 
;ved  with  filth,  and  swarming  with  fleas — Description  of  a vault  filled  with  barley 
; the  sheaf— An  Arabian  corn-mill  described — My  interview  with  a venerably  look- 
d and  kindly  seeming  pld  Arab  - - 84 

CHAP.  IX, 

■orderly  manner  of  the  Arabs’  herds  and  flocks — The  wretched  dress  and  disgust- 
fc;  manners  of  our  female  visiters — Our  affliction  by  the  plague  of  lice — Ahamed 
rives,  and  brings  with  him  Bob,  the  other  English  boy — The  joyful  meeting  of  the 
lys — Price  of  tobacco — Ahamed’s  remark  on  chewing  it— Adventure  in  the  wheat- 
fid — Remarkable  tallness  of  the  wheat  there — Instance  of  the  power  of  habit — The 
newal  of  Ahamed’s  invectives  and  reproaches  upon  the  Christians,  for  their  injus- 
:e  and  cruelty  to  the  negroes — Alarming  conference  between  our  masters  and  cer- 
n strangers,  on  the  subject  of  marketing  us — Preparations  for  our  journey  io 
.rearah  or  Mogadore — My  last  farewell  to  the  never-to-be-forgotten  Salear — The 
mmencement  of  our  journey — We  behold,  for  the  first  time,  real  trees — Descrip- 
n of  ail  Arabian  cloak — Numerous  herds  and  flocks  seen  by  us,  as  well  as  dwell- 
;s — The  prices  of  live  stock — Ahamed's  invective  against  the  shipwrecked 
Biristians  for  hiding  their  treasure  from  the  true  believers,  to  whom  God  had  given 
-His  horrid  tale  of  a numerous  crew  of  a large  ship,  murdered  to  a raan  by  him- 
. if  and  the  other  Arabs  - - - - 95 

CHAP.  X. 

trher  reservoir  on  our  road — Raw  meal  of  more  lasting  nourishment  than  meal  boil- 
— Our  arriv  al  at  the  sea — The  terrific  appearance  of  its  margin — The  Foulahs,  a 
cific  sect  of  Arabs,  resembling  the  shaking  quakers — Our  passage  through  a vast 
arm  of  locusts — The  manner  of  their  array — The  tents,  and  the  craft,  of  Arabian 
oermen — The  desolate  tents  of  a tribe  destroyed  by  the  plague — An  assemblage 
women  taunt  and  dismount  us — The  ruins  of  a town,  whose  inhabitants  bad  been 
i massacred  on  a religious  pretence — Our  visit  to  the  tribe  of  Ahamed’s  brother — 
ie  mutual  salutations  of  the  two  brothers,  and  the  ceremonious  observances  be- 
/een  them — The  murder  committed  by  Ahamed’s  brother,  on  his  own  wife,  for 
anting  our  food — His  indifference  about  her  while  she  lay  a dying — A speculator 
imes  to  buy  us  for  re-sale — His  singular  looks  and  garb — The  pictorial  beauty  of 
s horse — The  manner  of  his  chaffering  for  us — Our  extreme  agitation  - - 105 

CHAP.  XI. 

3 adieu  to  Ahamed’s  brother — The  fertility  of  the  country  increases  as  we  advance' 
-The  vastness  of  its  grain,  and  of  the  number  of  reapers — A sight  of  St.  Cruez  from 

* -e  top  of  a hill — A gang  of  women  hurl  stones  at  us  as  we  pass  by  them — Their  re- 
arkable  force  of  muscle,  as  well  as  gift  of  tongue — Tumult  among  our  owners, 
icasioned  by  their  missing  boy  Jack — The  debate  between  the  two  opposite 
aimers  of  him,  and  the  manner  of  their  settlement — Their  way  of  eating  their  pud 
ng — My  conversation  with  one  of  the  reapers— his  inquisitiveness  after  information 
bout  the  English  manufactures— How  the  Arabs  take  leave  of  their  entertainers — 
he  contrast  here  of  fat  and  lean  between  wives  and  husbands — Dismaying  re-ap- 
aarance  of  the  speculator— Our  unspeakable  distress  at  seeing  him  again,  and 
leaving  his  plausible  tale — He  fails  of  his  object,  and  goes  off  in  a rage — Our  unstic- 

• essful  attempts  to  escape  to  St.  Cruez — The  greedy  speculator  comes  again — Buys 

vie  of  the  mates — Is  again  defeated — We  arrive  at  St.  Cruez— The  manner  of  Con- 
locting  us  into  the  town  - - - - - - ...  - . . . . . - - w 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  XII. 

My  examination  at  St.  Cruez— Our  hospitable  treatment  there— The  huge  met 
food  set  before  us- — I he  personal  appearance  of  the  Moorish  governor — His  kii 
attentions  to  me-  His  remarks  upon  the  rascality  of  the  Arabs — His  orders  to  A 
'1  Te  cringing  sycophancy  of  the  latter — The  circumstances  of  our  departui 
Description  of  the  battery — A view  of  the  stupendous  Atlas — The  wonderful 
nagement  of  the  camels  in  climbing  it — The  difficulty  and  peril  the  rider  is  a 
keeping  his  hold — 1 he  adventures  at  our  lodging  place — Sublime  prospect  of 
Atlas  as  the  sun  was  rising' — The  amusing  spectacle  of  our  Arabs  buttering  tl 
beards  Description  ot  the  country—  Ahamed  swears  by  his  beard  to  carry  us 
further,  and  imprisons  us  in  a yard — The  resemblance  of  our  condition  to  tha 
the  newly  imported  negroes  yarded  up  for  sale  —A  visit  in  our  yard  from  a Moo 
great  respectability — The  discovery  by  us  of  the  scheme  of  our  masters  to  earn 
hack  Another  visit  Irom  the  respectable  Moor — The  awe  the  other  Moors,  and 
Arabs,  were  struck  with  by  his  presence — His  inquiries  of  and  about  us — Ado! 
successful  attempt  of  Tat  to  get  his  fill  by  amusing  the  women — The  jealousy 
(ury  it  occasioned  among  the  men — Our  narrow  escape  ------ 


CHAP.  XIII. 

Our  third  visit  from  the  venerable  Moor-— My  enlrealy  for  his  protection — His  pro 
sal  lor  my  writing  a letter  to  Mogadore — -The  purport  of  my  letter — A courier  hi 
to  carry  it — Our  joyful  hopes  turned  into  distracting  fears,  by  the  courier’s  presi 
ly  returning  with  the  letter  broken  open,  and  denounced  as  a cheat — A new, 
unpromising  plan,  agreed  upon — Our  benignant  guest  steps  in  and  defeats  it, 
proposes  to  the  Arabs  to  send  me  to  Mogadore — My  setting  out  on  my  journey 
ther,  in  company  with  Ahamed  and  the  Moor  that  was  to  have  carried  my  lette 
Heavy  discouragements  od  the  way — Condition  of  the  surrounding  country- — Dr 
ged  by  the  heels  from  my  bed  of  st  raw — My  confinement  in  a dark  and  loathsc 
room,  under  circumstances,  and  with  forebodings,  that  rendered  me  nearly  frantii 
My  escape  from  that  filthy  prison — After  an  altercation  with  Ahamed  and  the  Mo 
my  journey  progresses — A view  of  the  top  of  the  Atlas,  and  the  adjacent  count 
at  the  moment  of  sunrise — A stifling  progress  through  drifted  and  drifting  sani 
Enrapturing  sight  of  Mogadore,  and  of  the  British  flag  waving  in  its  harbour — ( 
currences  at  the  little  village  where  we  take  up  our  lodgings  for  the  night — My 
cape  from  my  keepers  to  a fresh  river  near  by — A feat  at  scouring  and  rins 
there ] 


CHAP.  XIV. 

The  rapid  race  of  my  two  keepers  inquest  of  me— Near  Mogadore  I am  met,  and  i 
luted,  by  two  Frenchmen---My  entrance  into  this  city  of  refuge— The  courtesy  o 
Jew  toward  me — My  arrival  at  the  house  of  the  British  consul  —My7  joyful  iut< 
view  there  with  certain  British  sailors,  who  had  lately  been  slaves  among  the  Ara 
— The  cordial  welcome  given  me  by  the  aged  consul — His  character  for  extraori 
nary  philanthropy — He  orders  Ahamed  back,  to  bring  up  my  men — A laborious  j 
at  shaving— The  ghastliness  of  my  appearance  to  myself  in  the  glass — My  vis 
with  the  consul,  to  the  two  Courts— Their  engaging  friendship — My  application 
the  American  agent,  a foreigner — The  difficulty  of  our  correspondence,  from  n 
knowing  one  another’s  language — How  the  spur  of  necessity  quickens  one’s  pr 
gress  in  learning  a foreign  language — My  rest  disturbed  and  broken  by  means  of  ti 
softness  of  my  bed — My  conversation  with  the  sailors  that  had  belonged  to  the  sh 
Martin  Hall — T heir  story  of  the  murder  of  one  of  their  crew  by  the  Arabs — Ti 
■"omul’s  remarks  on  the  unusually  short  time  of  our  captivity,  and  the  number 
shipwrecks  on  that  coast  during  the  term  of  his  consulate — My  interview  with  01 
agent — His  strange  advice — Our  ransom  promised  to  be  advanced  by  the  two  Cour 
— My  application  to  the  American  Consul  General  at  Tangier — His  exceeding 
sy  mpathetic  ?.nd  benevolent  answer — The  arrival  of  my  men  at  Mogadore  - If 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CHAPTER  XV. 

r opinion  of  William  Court  and  Consul  Gwyn  respecting  the  ransoming  of  Chris- 
I.n  slaves — Ahamed’s  jealousy  on  his  finding  me  an  American — The  aid  given  trie 
a friendly  Jew  in  quieting  him— -The  payment  of  our  ransom  by  the  two  Courts 
the  upshot  of  the  keg  of  dollars  hidden  by  me  in  the  barrel  of  beef — Regulations 
■ the  market  at  Mogadore— Unusual  cheapness  of  cattle,  occasioned  by  the  plague 

SThe  regulations  at  Mogadore  with  respect  to  imports  and  exports-— The  law 
ainst  any  but  Mahometans  riding  on  horseback — The  degraded  condition  of  the 
Jivs  there — The  uncommonness  of  Christians  and  Jews  turning  Mahometans-— The 
jostaey  of  boy  Jack— -Exultation  of  the  Moors  on  that  occasion— -Fairness  of  sales 
,d  cheapness  of  living— My  conversation  with  the  consul,  concerning  Ahamed’s 
>ry  of  the  massacre  of  a ship’s  crew  of  Christians,  and  about  the  harbour  I had 
;n— The  manner  of  trade  between  the  Spanish  fishermen  and  the  wild  Arabs — 
sketch  of  the  peculiar  perils  of  the  coast  we  were  wrecked  upon— Reasons  for 
lieving  tnat  many  crews,  supposed  to  have  been  foundered  at  sea,  had  perished 
that  coast— My  last  interview  with  Ahamed  - --  --  --  --  164 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

mperrnit  from  the  emperor  to  return  home— A visit  from  a frigate  of  his  Britannic 
. ijesty— The  consternation  occasioned  by  it  to  the  governor  of  Mogadore— The 
Vppled  condition  of  the  fortifications  of  that  town— The  way  and  manner  of  my 
iitaining  the  tabinet,  which  my  poor  black  man  Jack  had  packed  away  for  his  mis- 
■;ss  to  wear-— Account  of  the  commerce— Garden  at  Mogadore,  and  of  the  com- 
ijoy  that  resorted  to  it— A description  of  the  terrace-roofs  there,  and  of  the  step- 
mes  for  their  mosques— Curious  trials  for  criminal  offences-— singular  manner  of 
P city  watchmen— the  briskness  of  business,  occasioned  by  a permit  from  the  em- 
ror  to  export  grain— Our  passage  for  Portugal  engaged— -Pat’s  refusal  to  embark 

ith  us— Our  voyage  to  Lisbon— Our  quarantine  there— The  kind  attentions,  and 
suspecting  confidence  of  Buckley,  the  American  consul-general  at  Lisbon—  The 
ble  generosity  of  captain  Norman,  of  Baltimore— Our  voyage  from  Lisbon  to  that 
y,  and  arrival  there— Remarkable  supply  of  my  pecuniary  needs— My  journey 
: the  seat  of  government,  and  interview  with  the  Secretary  of  State — My  gladsome 
: urn  to  my  wife,  and  to  all  my  relations  and  friends  in  Hudson  - - - - 174 


■ »,*  • 


, •* 


' ... 


*v? 


PADDOCK’S  NARRATIVE* 


<3  0 <*>  (©>  ■ (2)  ® © ©■ ■ 


CHAPTER  I. 

|>  voyage  from  New-York  to  Cork — Occurrences  there — Account  of  Pat,  or  Pa- 
ick,  the  breeder  of  our  troubles — Occurrences  on  our  voyage  from  Cork  to  the 

1i ape  de  Verds — Our  shipwreck  on  the  Coast  of  Barbary — Evil  advice  listened  to- 
ur difficulties  and  perils  in  getting  ashore — The  ghastly  scenery  there,  and  ourdis- 
essful  apprehensions. 

Dn  the  8th  of  January,  1800,  I left  New-York  in  the  Ship  Oswe- 
gof  Hudson,  with  a cargo  of  flaxseed  and  staves  on  freight,  bound 
■Cork.  She  was  a very  good  ship  of  260  tons,  4 years  old,  a fast 
ft  er,  well  found  in  every  respect,  navigated  by  13  hands,  including 
Iks.  Some  of  our  crew  were  foreigners,  and  having  no  list  of  their 
.roes,  I cannot  recollect  them  all,  so  long  a time  having  elapsed 
n:e  the  voyage.  My  chief  mate  was  Daniel  Hussey  of  Nantucket ; 
2 mate,  John  Clark  of  Hudson  ; one  man  by  the  name  of  Wilbor, 
O'  by  the  name  of  John  Hill,  Gorham  Paddock,  a boy,  a black  man 
J:k  of  Hudson,  a black  man  Sam  of  Philadelphia,  Johnson  of  the 
ri  thern  part  of  the  state  of  New-York,  two  Danes  and  two  Swedes  ; 
flse  constituted  our  ship’s  company. 

Jur  passage  out  was  very  rough  ; we  arrived  there  in  24  days, 
le  third  day  after  sailing,  one  of  our  men  broke  out  with  the  small- 
pi  ; on  examination  I found  two  others  that  had  never  had  it ; and 
a >oon  as  the  pock  was  full  I inoculated  those  two,  who  had  it  very 
fourably,  some  little  attention  being  paid  to  their  diet.  On  our 
aival  they  were  well,  having  never  been  off  duty  one  day.  Rut 
ti  man  who  took  it  the  natural  way  had  it  very  severely  ; a com- 
pte  mange  covered  his  whole  body,  and  he  was  blind  several  days 
'ore  our  arrival.  When  the  health  officer  came  along  side  and 

Ind  sickness  on  board,  so  fearful  were  he  and  the  boat’s  crew,  of 
yellow  fever,  which  had  proved  very  mortal  the  summer  before 
New-York,  that  they  left  the  ship  immediately.  I got  a line  to 
friends  Harvey  and  Lecky  in  Cork,  who  came  along  side  in  a 
it.  I then  informed  John  Lecky  that  we  were  all  in  health  ex- 
it the  man  with  the  small  pox  ; and  he  sent  a doctor  off,  who  would 
h.  come  on  board  until  he  was  informed  that  the  sick  man  really  had 
t*  t disease.  The  poor  creature  lay  in  the  steerage  unable  to  stir. 

1 'presented  to  the  doctor  the  situation  he  was  in,  and  the  danger 
o exposing  him  to  the  cold  N.  E.  damp  wind,  and  that  there  was 
n way  to  exhibit  him  to  his  view,  but  by  rolling  him  up  in  a blanket 
til  passing  him  over  water  casks,  and  that  he  must  be  passed  out 
o 1-ways  for  want  of  room.  His  reply  was,  If  the  man  has  the 
; all  pox  the  air  will  not  hurt  him,  and  you  must  get  him  out  the 


TADDOCk’s  NARRATIVE. 


best  way  you  can.  Seeing  no  alternative,  we  passed  him  up, ; 
raised  him  on  his  feet,  at  the  ship’s  side,  for  a moment  only,  for 
doctor  was  soon  satisfied ; a worse  figure  in  human  shape  I had  ne 
seen.  We  then  put  him  below  and  laid  him  straight  again,  and 
harm  followed  as  we  could  discover;  to  say  the  least,  he  recove 
•and  got  quite  well  again  before  worse  troubles  overtook  him. 

We  were  soon  relieved  from  our  quarantine,  and  discharged 
•cargo.  After  laying  a few  days  and  finding  nothing  better  to  < 
jaloy  the  ship  in,  I concluded  to  ballast  her  and  go  to  the  Capel 
Verd  Islands,  and  take  a load  of  salt,  skins,  &c.  for  New-Yc 
While  the  ship  was  preparing  for  the  voyage,  1 was  able  to  coll 
about  1200  Spanish  dollars  ; they  not  being  current  money  ihereij: 
scarce,  I was  obliged  to  take  the  value  of  600  dollars  in  Spanish  ; 
Portuguese  gold.  While  in  Cork  we  had  heard  of  several  inst 
ces  of  vessels  being  robbed  on  the  coast  of  Spain  by  vessels  beai 
the  French  flag.  The  truth  of  these  reports  I will  leave,  but  thou 
if  they  were  to  rob  me  of  the  1200  dollars  it  should  require  sc 
time  to  find  them.  Accordingly  I took  a small  keg,  just  la 
enough  to  contain  the  money,  at  my  lodgings,  and  packed  it  sr 
At  a late  hour  in  the  evening,  every  thing  being  prepared,  1 ti 
the  keg  on  board  while  all  were  asleep  but  my  officers  ; unhea 
a barrel  of  beef,  took  one  half  out,  put  the  keg  in  the  middle  of 
barrel,  filled  it  up  again,  stowed  it  away  along  side  the  keelson, 
put  the  other  provisions  over  it  as  they  were  before.  None  of 
crew  knew  any  thing  of  this  transaction  till  some  time  after  we  \\ 
wrecked. 

On  the  22d  of  March,  a fine  breeze  at  N.  N.  W.  and  fair  weatlj 
we  put  to  sea.  When  out  of  the  harbour  and  the  pilot  discharj 
my  mate  asked  me,  as  is  customary  or  very  common,  how  the  s 
vms  to  be  steered  ? I told  him,  as  the  run  was  short,  ive  would  sh| 
our  course  for  Madeira,  and  run  for  it  on  a meridian  ; and  accordi! 
ly  that  course  was  ordered.  We  had  good  helsmen,  the  ship  ’ 
light  and  steered  like  a pilot  boat ; so  that  we  had  no  doubt  of  m 
ing  it  exactly  as  we  steered,  provided  the  weather  should  be  sucl 
we  had  good  reason  to  expect  on  that  coast  at  that  season  of 
year.  In  the  afternoon,  while  arranging  my  papers,  it  occurre<j) 
my  mind  that  we  had  a man  on  board  who  had  not  signed  the  sl| 
ping  articles,  and  sending  for  him  doivn  and  presenting  them* 
signing,  he,  to  my  astonishment,  refused,  by  saying  he  did  not  belijj 
to  the  ship,  and  knew  better  than  to  sign  any  such  articles.  I orij 
ed  him  out  of  the  cabin,  and  sending  for  the  mate,  I told  him 
man,  as  I called  him,  refused  signing  the  shipping  articles,  'j 
mate  was  exceedingly  provoked  at  it.  We  sent  for  the  man  agj 
and  he  making  use  of  the  same  language,  I threatened  to  put 
ashore  on  the  first  place  we  should  stop  at,  and  as  he  still  persis  j 
we  sent  him  out  of  the  cabin  the  second  time,  declaring  he  should 
put  on  board  the  first  British  ship  of  war  that  we  should  falil 
with. 

I will  now  relate  the  story  of  that  man’s  being  in  our  ship.  A 1 
days  before  sailing  from  Cork,  I went  on  board  the  ship,  and  | 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE* 


to 

nanger  at  the  caboose  ; on  asking  the  mate  who  he  was,  he  in- 
xied  me  he  came  on  board  the  day  before,  as  ragged  and  dirty  as 
.ever  saw  a man,  and  begged  to  work  his  passage  home ; that  he 
tied  his  condition,  gave  him  some  pieces  of  cloathing  and  put  him 
d re  caboose,  and  had  found  him  a good  cook.  1 suspected  he 
K some  runaway  sailor,  and  told  the  mate  to  put  him  ashore,  and 
Kt  myself  below.  As  soon  as  the  fellow  found  he  was  to  be  la’nd- 
dhe  came  below,  .and  begged  very  hard  to  go  to  America,  saying 
liras  very  poor,  that  the  times  were  so  hard  he  could  not  get  a 
Tig  in  the  country  he  came  from,  and  that  he  had  no  family  nor 
aids  : he  really  appeared  an  object  of  pity.  I told  him  I suspect- 
die  was  some  runaway  sailor  or  soldier;  he  denied  that  he  had 
v been  either.  I then  concluded  to  let  him  remain  a day  or  two 
aioard,  more  especially  as  the  mate  pleaded  so  hard  for  him. 
bn  I went  on  shore,  I mentioned  the  circumstance  to  some  of  my 
ids  who  had  seen  him  on  board,  and  thought  he  was  to  be  pitied, 
that  I had  better  take  him.  1 desired  my  landlord  to  mention 
ricase  to  the  press-master,  and  let  him  examine  him  : he  did  so  ; 
u whether  the  press-master  examined  him  or  not  I never  knew. 

ive  been  more  particular  in  stating  this  thing,  in  order  to  prepare 
;eader  for  what  will  be  related  concerning  that  fellow  hereafter, 
othing  material  happened  from  the  time  of  our  leaving  Ireland 
e 28th,  being  then  six  days  from  land  ; and  having  had  moderate 
ivariable  gales  with  fine  weather,  and  also  several  opportunities 
Iscertain  the  exact  variation  of  the  compass,  we  had  every  reason 
► slieve  our  reckoning  was  right.  On  this  morning  of  the  sixth 
of  our  voyage,  the  wind  from  the  W.  N.  W.  had  hauled  round 
r.  W.  with  hazy  weather.  About  9 o’clock  we  saw  a large  ship 
nur  lee  bow  standing  toward  us,  and  about  10  she  passed  under 
tlee  ; she  appeared  very  light,  under  close  reef  topsails,  and  from 
appearance  I supposed  she  was  Danish.  It  excited  some  little 
me  to  see  a large  ship  under  so  snug  a sail  standing  westward; 
jshe  been  loaded  we  should  have  concluded  she  was  from  Spain 
ortugal,  bound  westward.  We  were  at  the  time  under  single 
i topsails  with  a main  top  gallant  set.  About  1 1 o’clock  the 
1 veered  suddenly  to  N.  N.  W.  which  brought  this  ship  on  our 
'tiher  beam,  three  or  four  miles  off*.  At  the  same  time  we  saw  a 
i a little  on  our  lee  quarter  under  a press  of  sail,  heading  for  us 
bout  four  miles  distance  ; we  soon  perceived  she  was  a frigate  ; 
oout  an  hour  she  fired  a bow  gun.  She  being  at  some  distance 
we  having  nothing  to  fear,  we  hove  to.  By  this  time  the  light 
1 being  leewardly,  had  fallen  down  near  us  ; the  frigate’s  boat 
oded  that  ship  first,  and  then  came  on  board  us,  when  the  board- 
l'ttfficer  told  me  the  other  ship  was  from  Copenhagen,  bound  into 
uitraits  of  Gibraltar.  I asked  him  if  they  were  a stationed  ship  ? 
kreplied  they  were  cruising  off  Cape  Finistere.  I asked  how  far 
e apposed  they  were  from  the  land  ? He  mentioned  the  distance, 
hh  I do  not  now  recollect,  but  well  remember  we  had  supposed 
Uielves  further  westward.  As  they  had  not  seen  the  land  in  four 
and  were  in  a cruising  ship,  and  we  had  had  a fresh  departure 


20 


paddock’s  narrative. 

only  sis  days  before,  we  had  as  much  reason  to  put  confidence  in  o 
account,  as  he  in  his  ; yet  we  were  not  wide  apart  in  our  reckoninj 
I asked  him  the  cause  of  the  other  ship  being  on  the  other  tack,  if  f 
were  so  wide  of  Cape  Finistere?  He  smiled,  and  said,  such  hea 
ieewardly  hulks  were  obliged  to  make  great  allowance  for  lee  waj 
3 mention  this  occurrence  to  show  what  my  thoughts  were  at  tl 
moment,  and  (he  weight  it  had  on  my  mind  afterwards.  During 
this  time  I never  once  thought  of  Patrick,  or  Pat,  as  our  sailors  call 
the  cook  ; and  so  he  escaped  the  punishment  he  richly  deserved. | 
Soon  after  we  made  sail,  the  wind  having  hauled  to  the  N.  N. 
a fine  breeze,  wc  shaped  our  course  again  for  Madeira.  While  givi; 
directions  for  that  course,  my  mate  observed  he  thought  we  vvtj 
steering  too  far  westward,  and  that,  according  to  his  account,  [[ 
should  pass  to  the  westward  of  the  island.  In  reply,  I told  hin| 
was  of  no  consequence,  as  to  which  side  we  left  it,  but  that  I Ihotl 
prefer  making  it  ahead,  because  then  we  should  have  a choice  win 
to  leave  it.  This  conversation  caused  us  to  take  up  the  whole,! 
our  calculation,  from  Cork  harbour  to  the  then  supposed  place 
the  ship;  in  doing  which,  as  we  frequently  had  noticed  before,  |i 
ship’s  dead  reckoning  was  always  northward  of  our  meridian  lq 
rude,  that  is  to  say,  the  ship  was  always  ahead  of  her  reckoning ; ;| 
this  circumstance  led  us  often  to  measure  our  log  line  and  glass! 
which,  in  every  case,  were  found  correct.  Upon  comparing 
calculations  with  the  then  supposed  place  of  the  ship,  we  both  for 
that  no  errors  had  been  made  in  the  calculation  of  either  of  us  ; St 
still  we  differed  from  each  other  a little.  Now  to  explain  this  3 
persons  unacquainted  with  navigation,  I will  remark  that  two  cjti 
working  by  the  same  rule  in  theory,  may  differ  in  opinion  as  to  j| 
heave  of  the  sea,  and  the  ship’s  craving  the  wind,  for  which  alh 
ances  are  made  from  the  judgment  of  the  officer  of  the  deck ; :!;j 
these  are  the  only  reasons  why  navigators  aboard  the  same  s|j 
don’t  all  agree  together  as  to  the  latitude  and  longitude.  As  fail! 
I can  remember,  the  only  difference  in  our  ideas  of  the  bearin' i 
Madeira  was  this,  he  was  running  for  the  west  end,  and  1 for  ( 
east;  as  that  was  not  our  port  of  destination  it  was  of  no  cox : 
quence,  and  so  our  course  was  continued,  and  with  a fair  wind. 

We  got  in  the  latitude  of  the  island  early  in  the  morning,  the  q 
of  the  month  I don’t  recollect ; and  we  bore  away  westward  to  k j 
that  latitude,  running  all  day  at  the  rate  of  9 1 knots.  By  our  nti 
dian  observation  we  were  a few  miles  southward  of  the  middle  ot  j 
island,  the  weather  clear,  and  a good  horizon.  After  meridian,  j 
mate  observed  that  we  must  be  to  the  westward  of  that  island ; I < 
pressed  the  same  belief,  yet,  as  our  running  till  night  could  be  oi 
essential  inconvenience  to  us,  I told  him  we  would  continue  on.j 
At  sun  setting,  I sent  one  man  to  the  fore  topmast  head,  and  tp 
ther  to  the  main,  to  look  out  for  land ; they  continued  till  dark  of  i 
evening,  saw  nothing,  and  came  down.  We  continued  the  co  p 
till  some  time  in  the  evening,  and  then  hauled  to  the  S.  westwf 
Having  been  acquainted  with  that  island,  I was  confident  that  iip 
were  to  the  eastward  of  it,  we  must  be  distant  from  it  upward  f 


paddock’s  narrative,. 


21 


#jy-five  miles  ; and  being  so  much  disappointed  in  not  seeing  the 
ail,  we  had  reason  to  distrust  our  reckoning,  and  to  be  in  some 
Upon  which  we  went  below,  and  traced  our  course  and  dis- 
a -e  back  to  Cape  Finistere,  and  it  appeared  from  the  result,  that  if 
mad  been  on  shore  at  Madeira  at  sun-set,  we  could  not  have  found 
Ijance  enough  between  it  and  Cape  Finistere  itself  for  our  run 
ire  we  parted  with  the  British  frigate- on  that  coast.  Wherefore, 
my  opinion,  it  certainly  ought  to  have  been  conclusive  with  every 
ir.  that  we  were  to  the  westward  of  the  island  : nor  could  our  local 
Ration  have  been  otherwise,  without  a very  strong  current  east- 
?;d,  and  our  log  had  been  proved  often  enough  to  have  put  away 
g doubt  on  that  score.  If  I remember  rightly,  we  steered  S.  W. 
v 1 a moderate  breeze  from  the  eastward.  On  the  following  day, 
f ril  2,)  we  saw  no  appearance  of  land,  being  then  between  the 
alludes  of  Madeira  and  Tenneriffe,  and  we  continued  that  course, 
linear  it,  all  the  day.  The  night  following  we  split  the  fore  top 
•a;,  and  sprung  the  bowsprit.  In  the  morning  of  the  3d,  we  unbent 
hfore  top  sail,  and  bent  a new  one,  fished  the  bowsprit,  hove  the 
ip  to,  and  set  up  the  lower  rigging,  which  had  become  very  slack. 

?he  weather  was  uncommmonly  warm  for  those  latitudes.  Soon 
dr  day  light  this  morning  the  weather  was  smoky,  nothing  in  sight. 

! meridian  we  observed  we  were  in  the  latitude  29°  00'  which  was 
her  southward  than  to  agree  with  a calculation  by  dead  reckoning, 
b horizon  was  pretty  clear,  but  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  was 
fth  that  land  could  not  have  been  seen  at  a great  distance.  I very 
w 1 remember  the  observation  of  my  mate,  after  we  got  our  latitude 
T day  : By  our  reckoning,  said  he,  in  any  shape  you  please  to  put 
live  cannot  expect  to  see  the  Canaries  5 we  shall  pass  them  all  too 
fc  westward,  and  if  we  do  not  haul  further  southward  soon,  we  shall 
k to  leeward-  of  the  Cape  de  Verd  islands.  The  coast  of  Barbary 
rs  not  mentioned  by  either  of  us,  nor  did  it  enter  my  mind  ; but 
k,  opinion  of  our  being  too  far  westward  accorded  with  mine. 
Tis  afternoon  the  wind  was  far  to  the  eastward,  and  fresh.  As 
fell  as  I can  remember,  we  hauled  more  southerly,  going  at  the 
fee  of  from  7 to  8 knots.  Somewhile  about  4 or  5 o’clock,  our 
oversation  about  the  Canaries,  was,  as  I recollect,  that  we  were 
nv  in  the  latitude  of  the  body  of  them,  and  nothing  in  sight,  and 
a to  the  coast  of  Barbary,  that  we  were  in  no  danger  of  it,  being- 
tin  past  the  latitude  of  Cape  Nun,  laid  down  28°  40'.  During 
fij.t  conversation  we  were  looking  at  the  map,  and  1 pointed  out 
t him  the  passage  I once  had  made  through  the  Canaries,  between 
lima  and  Gomera,  for  the  Cape  de  Verd  islands,  observing  that 
cr  course  then  was  S.  S.  W.  and  that  we  got  in  the  latitude  of 
Inavista  30  miles  eastward  of  it. 

This  was  the  first  time  that  Barbary  was  mentioned  or  thought  of 
I me,  nor  was  it  afterwards,  till  a quarter  past  ten  that  night.  To- 
vrds  night,  as  I wras  sitting  in  the  cabin,  and  reflecting  on  our  situ- 
i on  as  to  our  passage  track,  &c,  I was  led  to  look  over  my  reckon- 
fe  again,-  feeling  some  uneasiness  that  I cannot  easily  describe. 
Tien  the  boy  brought  our  tea  down  I took  up  my  books  and  papers. 


22 


paddock’s  narrative. 


and  gave  him  the  table,  and  as  soon  as  his  things  were  arrangei 
sent  him  to  call  the  mates  ; it  was  now  near  dark  ; he  returned,  a 
said  the  mates  were  forward  at  work,  and  could  not  come  yet. 
drank  some  tea,  and  laid  down  with  my  clothes  on,  thinking  to 
on  deck  at  8 o’clock,  which  was  near  at  hand.  Having  been  hf 
at  work  all  the  day  I was  somewhat  fatigued,  and  unexpectedly  1 
asleep.  I awoke  at  the  sound  from  striking  four  bells  ; was  on  i 
leet  leeling  tor  my  hat,  and  with  no  light  burning  when  I heard 
unusually  loud  noise.  The  first  thought  that  struck  me,  was  o 
man  being  overboard.  Before  getting  out  of  the  gang  way  I d 
tinctly  heard  those  forward  crying  out,  Breakers ! Breakers  ri; 
ahead!  and  several  of  the  crew  were  running  aft.  I saw  nothin 
nor  did  I look  forward,  but  ran  to  the  helm  to  put  it  up  ; too  la 
for  it  was  hard  down,  or  nearly  so.  I put  my  hand  on  the  til 
head,  and  bore  it  hard  to  the  rail,  when,  in  a moment,  the  ship  11 
to,  head  to  the  wind,  our  yards  being  a little  pointed  or  braci 
By  this  time  all  hands  were  on  deck,  and  a number  aft,  to  haul  rou 
the  after  yards.  We  were  on  the  point  of  hauling,  when  I discov 
ed  her  to  fall  off.  At  that  moment  we  hauled  up  the  mizzen,  s 
having  such  quick  stern  way  with  the  helm  yet  down,  the  main 
mizzen  topsail  kept  shivering  or  edging  to  the  wind;  the  jib  a 
fore  staysail  sheets  being  hauled  flat,  she  fell  off  remarkably  quii 
every  man  using  his  greatest  exertions.  When  she  began  to  gatl 
head  way,  the  helm  righted  with  the  wind  at  least  two  points  on  I 
starboard  quarter,  wanting  not  more  than  once  her  length  of  comi 
round,  heading  off  shore ; at  that  moment  she  struck  tremendou: 
heavy,  all  the  cabin  windows  came  in,  and  part  of  the  sea  came  op 
the  taffle  rail.  She  struck  twice  more  in  the  hollow  of  the  two  no 
seas,  and  floated,  running  perhaps  three  or  four  times  her  leng 
and  struck  again,  and  stopt  with  every  sea  breaking  over  us,  $j 
land  in  sight,  and  we  seemingly  swallowing  up  by  the  raging  oce^ 
foaming  terribly  around  us.  Her  stern  soon  drove  round,  so 
to  bring  the  sea  on  our  beam,  and  at  every  thump  she  rolled  off,  w 
her  gunwale  near  to  the  water.  By  this  time  we  saw  the  land  at 
great  distance  from  us. 

We  had  now  recovered  a little  from  our  fright,  when  I desired  til 
men  to  go  into  the  hold  and  shovel  the  ballast  in  shore,  to  prevt 
her  rolling  off  * in  the  mean  time  those  of  us  left  on  deck  brac!| 
our  yards  as  hard  aback  as  could  be  done,  to  keep  her  on.  In  h;i 
an  hour,  with  the  assistance  of  the  sails  and  by  shifting  the  ballai 
she  had  beat  up  so  high  on  the  rocks  as  to  lay  pretty  still ; y 
every  sea  rolled  some  part  of  it  on  deck.  Before  as  much  of  tjl 
ballast  was  shifted  as  I wished,  one  of  our  men  came  on  deck  jj 
great  haste,  and  informed  me  that  the  ship  was  sinking,  the  wat 
coming  in  amain  : it  was  some  time  before  I could  convince  hi:j 
that  though  she  might  be  filling,  she  could  not  sink  any  lower,  beii 
already  on  the  rocks.  He  returned,  however,  and  staid  long  enou 
with  his  companions  to  effect  the  purpose  intended ; and  all  car 
on  deck,  and  went  forward.  In  justice  to  every  man  and  boy  in  t 
ship,  I can  say  with  propriety,  they  all  behaved  well  thus  far. 


SUVDDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


2-3 


ause  a moment,  reader,  and  reflect  upon  our  condition,  sur- 
oided  with  foaming  billows,  every  surge  threatening  us  with  de- 
letion, the  roaring  of  the  surf  and  the  noise  of  the  cracking  ship, 
o oud  that  we  could  scarcely  hear  any  thing  else  ; there  seemed 
ciing  but  death  before  us. 

Ve  were  in  this  situation  some  short  time,  saying  very  little  to 
other,  standing  by  the  mizzen  mast  and  holding  to  the  rigging 
\y  was  hanging  all  around  us,  when  two  or  three  of  our  men  came 
land  asked  me  on  what  coast  we  were  stranded  ? I told  them  my 
3;s  were  that  we  were  on  the  coast  of  Barbary,  but  1 had  a faint 
e that  it  was  one  of  the  Canary  islands  ; that  day  light  only 
Id  determine  it,  and  we  must  be  patient  for  its  approach.  It 
now  about  midnight.  One  of  them  told  me  that  those  forward 
ight  the  ship  would  go  to  pieces  before  morning.  I used  every 
iment  in  my  power  to  convince  him  of  their  error,  telling  him  the 
i was  sound,  and  as  strong  as  wood  and  iron  could  make  her ; 
she  never  had  a cargo  in  her  before  the  last ; that  she  had  been 
iloyecl  in  the  whale  fishery  from  the  time  she  was  new,  and  had 
3r  been  overstrained.  He  returned  forward  only  for  a short 
■,  when  several  of  them  came  aft,  and  proposed  to  go  ashore  : 
proposal  made  me  shudder.  I told  them  it  would,  from  every 
earance,  be  present  death  to  attempt  it,  as  we  now  had  a consi- 
ible  view  of  the  hideous  rocks  within,  and  could  plainly  see  the 
iracticablcness  of  ascending  them,  and  that  another  important 
cit  to  be  considered  was,  in  case  they  should  land  in  safety,  the 
c:  would  be  dashed  to  pieces  ; that  she  was  a very  large  long- 
ic:,  new,  and  never  afloat ; that  in  her,  with  a temporary  deck, 
fch  could  be  made  in  a few  hours,  we  all  might  either  land  there, 
r o to  any  other  place  we  should  choose  ; and  that  if  we  were  on 
acoast  of  Barbary,  it  would  be  absolutely  necessary  for  us  to  have- 
aft  to  get  to  the  Canaries  or  some  other  place,  having  no  reason 
expect  much  mercy  from  the  natives  of  that  country. 

'his  reasoning  I thought  would  have  a good  effect,  and  so  it 
eaed  at  first,  for  all  was  quiet.  But  very  soon  a new  proposition 
a e,  and  that  was  to  cut  away  the  masts,  as  by  their  standing  there 
r>  Id  be  danger  of  the  ship  coming  to  pieces  ; and  they  told  me  if 
nuld  consent  to  have  them  cut  away,  they  would  stay  till  morning. 

1 objection  was,  that  in  case  the  masts  were  goije,  there  would  be 
fejgerof  the  ship  heeling  oft’,  in  which  event  we  should  lose  the  long 
tet  by  the  sea  washing  over  us,  as  it  was  even  now  in  danger. 
Fly  replied,  the  ballast  shovelled  to  leeward,  would  be  sufficient. 
S essity  obliged  me  to  consent,  on  condition  they  would  cut  away 
a mizzen  mast  first,  and  wait  a little  while  to  see  the  effect,  and  if 
h ship  should  lay  as  still  as  before,  they  might  cut  the  fore  masi 
test ; calculating  as  I did,  that  it  would  draw  towards  day  light  be- 
j the  whole  would  be  accomplished,  by  means  of  my  retarding 
ftti  as  much  as  might  be  prudent  in  such  a gloomy  situation. 

>ne  of  the  stoutest  of  the  men,  I believe  a Swede,  took  the  car- 
Kf-er’s  axe  from  the  tool-chest  on  deck,  and  began  cutting  away. 
%n  I saw  the  mast  tvas  about  half  cut  oft}  I told  one  of  them  to 


24 


paddock’s  narrative. 

get  into  the  mizzen  chains  and  cut  the  lanyards  and  let  it  go. 
got  into  the  chains  and  cut  one  lanyard,  and  raised  himself  up 

deliberately  and  said,  It  is  all  d d nonsense,  we  will  go  as! 

As  grating  as  that  expression  was,  prudence  forbade  my  maki 
reply,  or  noticing  it.  They  all  assembled  again  under  the  lee  oj 
long-boat,  the  officers  excepted,  and  held  a council.  We  soon 
them  getting  up  the  boat-takles  to  the  fore  and  main  yards.  I b 
then  to  reason  with  them  upon  the  impropriety  of  that  measure,  \ 
the  only  reply  1 heard,  was,  “ We  are  in  duty  bound  to  take  ca 
ourselves,  and  not  stay  here  and  drown.”  I went  aft  to  my  m 
who  had  said  but  very  little  during  the  time  we  had  been  in 
situation,  and  asked  them  their  opinion  of  the  measure  that 
about  to  be  pursued.  If  I recollect  aright,  my  second  mate, 
was  a good  young  man,  said  he  should  prefer  staying  by  the  i 
On  the  contrary,  the  chief  mate,  without  hesitation,  said  it  was 
opinion  that  we  should  take  the  boat,  and  land  ; that  he  had 
been  shipwrecked  in  the  West  Indies,  when  choosing  to  stay  b 
wreck  rather  than  to  leave  it,  he  very  narrowly  escaped  death, 
had  then  made  up  his  mind,  that,  in  a like  situation,  he  woul< 
ways  leave  the  wreck  the  first  opportunity : yet  that,  in  the  pr< 
case,  seeing  how  anxious  I was  to  stay  by  the  wreck,  he,  alth 
of  the  contrary  opinion  himself,  would  have  been  silent  if  I had 
vailed  on  the  crew  to  have  staid.  He  was  an  excellent  seami 
firm  determined  man,  and  had  kept  our  men  under  the  best  c 
pline. 

Matters,  by  this  time,  were  all  settled.  Go  ashore,  was 
word  ; the  takles  were  soon  on  the  yards,  and  the  boat  ho 
out.  So  great  was  the  haste  on  leaving  the  ship,  that  neither  p 
sions  nor  water  were  put  in  : I hove  in  one  trunk,  and  took  my  j 
which  had  been  always  under  my  pillow.  So,  oil'  we  pushed, 
rowed  toward  the  land,  and  the  nearer  it  we  gained,  the  more  hid 
was  the  appearance.  We  succeeded  at  last  to  reach  the  rc 
when  two  men  jumping  out,  without  the  boat’s  rope,  the  under 
was  so  strong  that  it  carried  the  boat  half  way  back  to  the  j 
where  she  was  placed  broadside  to  the  sea,  and  was  near  fil 
Our  oars  were  so  well  plied  the  second  time,  that  we  soon  reai 
the  rocks  again,  when  two  men  having  the  rope,  jumped  on  th 
and  were  assisted  by  the  first  two,  who  had  acted  before  out  of  a 
rather  than  from  any  unfeelingness  towards  their  shipmates  ; t 
now  assisted  to  hold  the  boat  in  a situation  for  us  all  to  get  salt 
the  rocks  ; which  done,  every  one,  with  all  his  strength,  hat 
the  boat  as  far  up  as  possible. 

We  then  crawled  over  those  slippery  rocks,  perhaps  from  1 
1 2 feet  high,  to  a sand  bed  a little  beyond,  which  appeared  a 
hill,  upwards  of  100  feet  in  altitude.  There  we  wrung  the  w 
from  our  clothes,  and  walked  the  sands  some  time,  when  my  n i 
and  myself  ascended  this  sand  hill  ^ it  being  dark  we  could  ( 
nothing,  nor  did  we  expect  to  see  any  thing  except  lights  of  1 
After  walking  a little  while  on  this  mountain  of  sand,  urn  desccu 
again  to  the  place  where  our  men  had  remained,  who  had  forget 


25 


paddock’s  narrative. 

i r cares  in  sound  sleep.  As  to  ourselves,  we  walked  the  sand  all 
i night,  bemoaning  our  condition,  being  pretty  well  assured  that 
were  in  no  other  place  than  the  coast  of  Barbary.  The  ship  was 
l ight,  with  all  sails  standing  ; the  wind  blew  very  fresh  about  4 
cits  on  shore,  and  we  thought  it  probable  that  her  masts  would 
oy  the  board  before  morning  ; a light  was  burning  in  the  cabin, 
low  we  wished  ourselves  back,  and  the  boat  safe  on  deck — alas 
date ! and  also  too  late  to  cast  any  reflections  upon  those  who 
looted  the  measure  so  unfortunate  to  us.  It  could  have  done  no 
id.  Only  to  hint  at  the  thing,  might  likely  have  had  the  effect  to 
• the  tempers  of  the  stubborn.  Wherefore,  in  our  night-walk,  it 
agreed  upon  by  us  to  harmonize  as  much  as  possible,  and  en- 
jv’our  to  make  our  burthen  as  light  as  we  could,  and  that  when 
jmen  should  awake  out  of  their  sleep,  wre  would  have  with  them 
■ear  understanding  about  our  future  progress,  wdth  a view,  on 
Ty  occasion,  to  keep  them  from  splitting  into  parties,  and  to  pre- 
a division  in  sentiment ; for  we  well  knew  that  our  future  safety 
i welfare  could  not  be  attained  otherwise. 

efore  morning,  our  conversation  was  much  confined  to  the  ship- 
:k  and  sufferings  of  our  fellow  countryman,  Captain  H.  Delano, 
had  been  wrecked  on  that  coast  several  years  before.  I had 
:;d  with  a man  who  had  sailed  with  Capt.  Delano  since  that  event, 
who  told  me  many  stories  which  he  heard  related  by  him.  In- 
1 we  had  no  cause  to  doubt  Delano’s  account ; yet  as  the  sufler- 

ite  experienced  was  so  long  ago,  we  flattered  ourselves  that  the 
Jbitants  of  that  country  had  become  more  humanized,  by  means 
f leir  great  intercourse  with  Christians  in  the  trading  towns. 

n the  morning  of  the  4th  of  April,  as  soon  as  the  day  began  to 
an,  I ascended  the  high  mountain  of  sand,  and  there  remained  till 
e- sunrise.  What  could  I see?  A barren  sand,  without  either 
f or  shrub,  or  the  least  appeai’ance  of  vegetation,  dreary  in  every 
fcect ; and  at  a distance  back,  a long  range  of  mountains  extend- 
iseast  and  west.  Turning  my  view  towards  the  ocean,  and  be- 
o ing  the  ship  lying  in  the  surf  with  her  sails  aloft,  while  thirteen, 
fiy  shipmates  were  standing  together  before  my  eyes  ; the  sight 
too  distressing  for  me  to  bear.  I laid  myself  down  on  the  sand, 
n gave  vent  to  my  grief  by  a flow  of  tears. 


fADDOClTs  NARRATIVE. 


So 


CHAP.  II. 

Our  devices  and  efforts  for  getting  back  to  the  ship— Numerous  fragments  of  all 
cently  wrecked  frigate — The  construction  of  a raft  from  them,  and  its  ill  suecel 
Our  several  abortive  attempts  to  swim  to  the  ship — Our  successful  recourse  toji 
Portuguese  method  of  swimming — The  landing  of  our  necessaries — Preparation!! 
repairing  the  long  boat — The  mission  of  two  of  our  men  to  make  discoveries,  j 
one  for  the  mountains,  and  the  other  for  the  Cape — The  return,  and  the  frig! 
story,  of  the  latter — Particulars  concerning  the  fragments  of  the  wreck,  that  tj 
lying  far  along  the  shore — Intoxication  of  Pat  and  his  watchmate,  while  they  f 
on  the  watch — A nocturnal  visit  from  two  barefooted  Arabs — Our  alarm  and  i| 
sternation  upon  the  discovery  of  this  by  their  tracks— preparations  for  ourdepar 
for  St.  Cruez— The  man  for  the  mountain  returns,  and  makes  report — Remarkahl  j 
stance  of  gratitude  and  kindheartedness  in  Jack,  my  black  man. 

As  soon  as  I had  composed  myself  a little  I descended,  and  joii 
my  crew,  who  were  waiting  with  the  greatest  anxiety  to  know  w| 
I had  seen.  When  I had  related  my  tale,  and  given  my  opinioi 
to  our  hopes  of  the  future,  we  began  to  devise  means  to  get  bacif 
our  ship.  Upon  examining  our  long  boat,  we  found  her  garbo, 
streak  was  stove  and  shattered  for  several  feet,  and  that  a hob 
another  plank  had  been  broken  through  by  the  sharp  corner  c! 
rock,  and  that  she  lay  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  below  where  it  i| 
possible  to  repair  her ; while  a fine  yawl  of  16  feet  was  hanging 
the  takles  over  the  stern  of  the  ship.  The  poor  fellow  who,  ] 
night  before,  was  the  ringleader  in  the  project  for  landing  at 
events,  was  now  the  first  to  exclaim,  Had  we  done  as  the  cap! 
advised  us,  we  should  now  have  been  in  a situation  to  go  any  wh 
in  so  fine  a boat  as  this  ! Upon  which,  I took  occasion  to  caution  1 
and  all  the  others  against  disobedience ; there  being  then  no  gret I 
proof  necessary  than  that  before  their  eyes  to  convince  them  all  of' 
error  they  had  committed.  Although  the  prospect  of  a happy 
mination  of  our  anticipated  sufferings  was  small,  they  all  agreec 
consider  themselves  as  much  under  my  command  as  they  ever  !|! 
been,  and  that  they  would  strictly  obey  me  and  my  officers  in 
matters  concerning  the  general  good. 

Our  first  object  was  to  get  back  to  the  ship  for  a supply  of  pr<  • 
sions  and  water,  and  also  of  spars  and  takles  to  raise  the  long  bj 
for  repairs,  we  feeling  in  hopes  that  ail  could  be  effected  before 
discovery  of  us  should  be  made  by  the  natives.  Marks  of  hoi! 
and  asses  were  visible  on  the  beach,  but,  from  appearances,  it  it 
been  some  considerable  time  since  they  had  been  there.  Onejt 
our  sailors  said  he  could  swim  to  the  ship,  which  was  at  a dislaSi 
oT  not  more  than  a hundred  yards.  Fie  made  many  attempts,  | 
failed ; the  difficulty  was  in  getting  beyond  the  breakers.  11 
next  attempt  was  made  by  black  Sam,  who  after  two  or  three  h ( 
efforts,  succeeded  in  getting  through  the  breakers,  but  his  strenji 
was  so  much  exhausted  that  he  sunk.  Next,  two  or  three  of  'J 
men  went  in,  following  the  undertow,  or  recession  of  the  surf ; 1 1 
they  plunged  in  and  seized  hold  of  Sam,  and  found  no  difficulty  i 
returning,  as  the  first  surf  hove  them  all  up  together,  and  those  j 
the  shore  helped  them  out.  He  was. entirely  helpless  and  apparei |j 


haddock’s  narrative* 


■u.1 


feist  gone  : we  laid  him  on  the  rocks,  face  down,  and  By  mode- 
lily  rolling  and  moving  him  he  was  made  to  discharge  much  wa- 
•ifrom  his  mouth,  and  in  a few  hours  recovered  so  far  as  to  walk 
J tie--  Several  others  attempted  it,  but  all  their  attempts  proved 
fehive.  * 

he  next  plan  was  to  make  a raft,  in  order  to  pole  off  to  the  outer 
of  the  breakers.  Timber  for  that  purpose  was  not  lacking,  as 
|y  parts  of  a wreck  were  lying  along  shore  as  far  each  way  as  the 
could  discern.  We  took  part  of  the  lower  yard  of  a heavy 
I,  along  with  some  pieces  of  small  spars,  enough  for  our  purpose, 
lashed  them  together  with  the  boat’s  rope ; when  the  second 
, a very  strong  man,  and  two  good  sailors,  with  each  an  oar  for 
lie,  launched  them  off.  However,  after  a fair  trial,  we  found  it 
jissible  to  gain  the  ship.  I was  then  about  taking  my  turn  to 
|q,  and  try  to  gain  the  shin  by  a method  I had  seen  practised  by 
dortuguese  at  Madeira  when  they  went  offshore  merely  for  their 
isement ; that  was,  to  follow  the  receding  water  as  lowr  as  possi- 
and  dive  or  dart  through  the  breaker,  and  when  once  got  with- 
the  difficulty  was  surmounted.  But  my  mate,  after  observing 
ie  that  we  were  all  so  weak  with  fatigue  and  the  want  of  water, 
if  we  did  not  board  the  ship  very  soon  we  never  should  at  all  ; 
iroposed  trying  himself  the  experiment  first,  and  in  case  of 
re,  that  I should  make  the  last  trial.  Accordingljr  he  stript,  and 
wed  down,  and  in  less  than  five  minutes  from  the  time  of  start- 
le was  at  the  ship. 

was  now  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  a general  rejoicing  took 

Ie.  The  rudder  was  unhung,  which  served  very  well  as  a bridge 
urn  to  pass  on  to  the  cabin  windows,  where  he  entered  her.  As 
i as  he  had  quenched  his  burning  thirst  he  came  on  deck,  made 
(deep  sea-line  fast  to  an  oar,  and  darted  it  ashore  ; and  that  served 
hauling-line  for  others  to  get  off  by ; three  went  off  by  it,  with 
jetions  how  to  pass  our  goods  on  shore.  Having  a cask  of  whale 
on  deck,  I ordered  a single  block  to  be  made  fast  to  the  mizzen 
*nast  head,  and  through  it  rove  this  line,  sending  the  end  ashore, 
keeping  the  bite  on  deck. 

hey  scuttled  the  water  casks  in  the  hatchway,  which  were  found 
t ing  in  the  hold,  filled  all  the  jugs  and  kegs,  and  put  what  bread 
: found  between  decks  in  bags,  and  run  them  aloft  by  this  line; 
Bjhey  veered  we  hauled : by  keeping  a taut  line  our  goods  wrere 
l ied  dry.  The  whole  of  the  provisions  saved  by  us  consisted  of 
tut  40  pounds  of  bread,  a small  quantity  of  potatoes  and  onions, 
n a bag  of  Indian  corn  ; our  other  dry  provisions  were  in  the 
Der  hold  and  destroyed  by  the  salt  water.  Being  placed  high  on 
a rocks,  we  succeeded  in  landing  every  thing  perfectly  dry  which 
t'  ld  be  injured  by  the  wet.  In  the  same  manner  we  landed  our 
1 hes,  beds,  &c.  together  with  a spare  foresail  for  a tent, 
p that  affair  of  landing  our  goods  we  committed  an  act  of  impru- 
fee  which  I cannot  forbear  mentioning  as  a caution  to  others  who 
i r be  unfortunately  placed  in  the  like  circumstances.  The  mate 
e , among  other  things,  my  case,  containing  6 gallons  of  equal 
vs  of  rum,  gin,  and  brandy,  and  a hamper  of  port  wine  and  por- 


28  TADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 

ter.  At  the  moment  I did  not  think  it  any  harm  to  have  this  liq 
sent  ashore  : but  more  of  this  matter  in  its  place. 

A little  after  sunset  our  men  landed  in  the  yawl,  leaving  a rc 
fast  to  the  ship  with  one  end  to  the  shore.  In  the  mean  time,  h: 
ing  erected  our  tent,  we  boiled*some  meat,  and  had  a good  sup] 
prepared.  At  8 o’clock  we  divided  ourselves  into  watches,  and 
the  watch,  who  were  to  sit  or  stand  outside  of  the  tent,  and  be 
lieved  every  two  hours,  with  orders  in  case  of  any  person  orpersi 
approaching,  to  wake  us  up  in  the  tent,  and,  if  possible,  to  see 
them  without  noise.  All  things  being  arranged,  my  mates  and  n 
self  concluded  to  begin  early  in  the  morning,  and  to  land  evi 
article  that  should  be  necessary  for  repairing  the  boat,  which 
thought  might  be  repaired  in  two  days  so  as  to  be  ready  for  our 
parture  ; as  we  had  new  canvass  sufficient  for  putting  on  her  a c 
vass  deck  supported  by  carlings  or  beams.  It  was  late  before 
went  to  sleep.  At  daylight,  on  the  5th,  the  watch  called  all  han 
and  we  went  to  work.  Our  line  getting  foul  among  the  rocks  at 
bottom,  and  some  other  difficulties  happening,  we  did  not  get  a p 
sage  to  the  ship  till  after  breakfast,  or  8 o’clock.  A little  bef 
breakfast  I took  a turn  on  the  hill  with  my  glass.  The  sun  shone  j 
the  mountains,  which  made  a very  handsome  appearance,  I ha 
strong  desire  to  know  whether  there  were  any  inhabitants  there 
there  were  any,  the  chance  I thought  was  very  much  against  our  g 
ting  off  before  being  discovered.  I mentioned  this  thing  to  my  mai 
who,  with  me,  thought  well  of  sending  a man  on  that  errand.  C 
soon  volunteered  to  go  ; and  as  soon  as  breakfast  was  over  he  t<( 
a bottle  of  water  and  two  cakes  of  bread,  and  started,  with  order: 
keep  a bright  look  out,  and  in  case  he  discovered  any  persons 
conceal  himself  from  their  view,  and  return  as  soon  as  he  cou 
We  had  a compass  on  shore,  by  which  we  found  that  the  shore 
due  east  and  west  ; and  10  or  12  miles  westward  of  us  a Cape  p 
jected  into  the  sea  in  a very  square  bluff.  Not  knowing  where 
were,  I proposed  for  one  man  to  walk  westward  and  survey  t 
Cape,  intending  to  get  the  altitude  of  the  sun  at  noon,  to  ascert 
our  latitude,  and  if  from  where  we  saw  the  bluff  the  land  shaj 
southerly,  follow  it  along  as  far  as  only  to  give  time  to  return 
night.  I thought  if  that  Cape  was  Nun,  he  would  find  Nun  river.] 

I must  here  go  a little  out  of  my  way:  upon  every  opportun 
since  the  ship  was  wrecked,  we  talked  together  of  the  place  wh< 
we  were  so  unfortunately  cast,  making  calculations  from  our  supp  - 
ed situation  on  the  3d  at  10  P.  M.  when  we  supposed  ourselves  I 
clear  of  Cape  Nun,  both  westward  and  southward.  When  the  sb 
struck  we  thought  we  were  on  a Cape  southward  of  it.  Upon  ft 
chart  no  such  Cape  was  laid  down  ; but  in  the  latitude  27°  50',  win i 
was  near  our  latitude  at  1 0 P.  M.  on  the  3d,  there  appeared  a sum 
projection  into  the  sea,  but  forming  such  a Cape  as  the  one  now  i 
sight.  As  we  had  observed  a constant  current  setting  along  ship 
eastward,  of  at  least  two  knots,  during  both  the  ebb  and  flood,  j? 
were  of  the  opinion  that  we  had  been  currented  as  many  miles  nor  j- 
ward  since  our  meridian  observation  on  that  day,  as  to  have  cast  !> 


paddock’s  narrative. 


i 'ape  Nun.  Having  no  authority  of  an  actual  survey  on  that  coast, 
e vere  doubtful  as  to  the  place  or  situation  we  were  in,  and  being 
c tat  doubt  we  still  called  the  Cape  within  our  view  Cape  Nun. 
ire  that  time  I have  taken  much  pains  to  examine  all  the  charts 
fc'iat  coast  which  have  come  withirf  my  knowledge,  and  am  rather 
(le  opinion  that  we  were  wrecked  on  a Cape  that  I have  seen 
Eted  Cape  Saber,  lying  near  the  latitude  27°  50'.  If  that  was  the 
it,  the  current  which  set  along  the  coast  where  our  ship  lay  was 
a ddy  current,  and  my  belief  of  its  being  such  has  been  strengtli- 
a 1 from  the  consideration  that  we  travelled  more  than  a hundred 
i;s  further  eastward  than  the  distance  could  be  from  Nun  to  St. 
Idz.  In  either  case,  Nun,  or  Saber,  we  must  have  been  current- 
ftastward  more  than  200  miles  since  speaking  the  English  frigate. 

o return  : our  other  man  was  soon  ready  to  start,  with  the  same 
ick  of  provisions  and  water,  and  bearing  the  same  orders  as  the 
r?  one.  By  this  time  we  had  commenced  landing  the  carpenter’s 
*5,  and  the  materials  for  raising  the  boat,  <Lc.  Every  man  seemed 
iiosed  to  do  his  duty  freely,  but  so  many  little  accidents  happened 
K we  got  along  very  slow : what  was  done  before  dinner  did  not 
aunt  to  much,  nor  did  we  think  of  a quadrant,  our  minds  being 
cipied  about  things  of  more  importance.  In  the  afternoon  we 
pressed  considerably  well,  and  by  night  we  were  prepared  to 
omence  on  repairing  the  boat,  which  was  to  be  begun  the  next 
tining.  Some  time  before  night,  with  the  glass,  I saw  a person 
n he  beach,  a long  way  to  the  westward,  and  soon  made  him  out  to 
eiur  man  ; it  being  then  at  least  three  hours  sooner  than  I had  ex- 
e.edhim.  As  he  approached  nearer,  I discovered  that  he  walked 
u k ; and  fearing  some  bad  news,  I went  on  to  meet  him.  As  soon 
s/e  were  near  enough  to  speak  to  each  other  I asked  him  what 
ft  the  matter  with  him,  for  he  really  looked  frightened.  He  asked 
iif  I knew  what  kind  of  people  inhabited  this  country.  I told 

ii  I did  not,  but  was  apprehensive  they  were  the  Arabs.  He  said 
Tr  are  man-eaters!  Upon  asking  him  how  he  knew  it,  he  replied, 
but  12  miles  from  us  is  that  Cape  you  see  there  : I went  on  it,  and 
hie  I saw  a heap  of  human  bones,  and  near  them  a fire  had  been 
■le  within  a few  days  ; and  adding,  the  Lord  have  mercy  on  us ! 
.t  >egan  to  weep.  In  a short  time  he  collected  himself,  when  1 told 
i I did  not  believe  these  people  were  man-eaters,  though  the  fire 
*!•  human  bones  certainly  indicated  something  like  it,  and  that  if 
f old  that  story  in  the  tent  I should  despair  of  getting  away  ; that 
# people  would  fall  into  a state  of  despair,  and  nothing  would  be 
;ce.  He  made  me  a solemn  promise  not  to  mention  anything  of 
n kind,  and  1 believe  he  was  true  to  that  promise. 

Ve  returned  to  the  tent,  where  he  was  welcomed  by  his  shipmates, 
i ' made  many  inquiries  of  him  relative  to  what  he  had  seen  ; but 
itbad  not  seen  Nun  river,  nor  would  he  if  it  had  not  been  a mile 
ra  the  human  bones.  It  being  now  about  sun  setting,  and  our 
a i much  latigued,  we  quitted  work,  and  supper  not  being  ready, 
a mate  and  myself  tvalked  a little  way  from  the  tent,  to  a place 
v re  lay  several  parts  of  the  wreck  J mentioned  when  speaking  oi 


30 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


our  raft.  Some  topmast  cross-trees  we  had  the  curiosity  to  measull 
what  they  measured  I now  don’t  recollect,  but  remember  we  agrl 
that,  from  the  size  of  the  head  of  the  topmast  and  of  the  heel  of 
top  gallant  mast,  they  must  have  belonged  to  a small  frigate,  o 
large  ship  of  another  denominafion.  In  a part  of  one  cf  thequai 
galleries  wre  noticed  that  the  carved  work  was  not  of  the  best  wo 
manship,  and  that  the  yellow  paint  was  not  all  chafed  off,  althoi 
lying  iu  the  edge  of  the  water  at  high  tide,  which  we  observed  r 
and  fell  about  six  feet. 

After  making  these  observations  were  turned  to  the  tent,  where  i 
people  were  all  assembled,  waiting  for  supper.  We  observed  t! 
Pat  had  as  much  to  say  as  the  rest  of  them,  and  that,  ever  since  j 
landed,  he  had  taken  some  liberties  unbecoming  a man  in  his  staff 
and  unsuitable  to  the  gloomy  condition  we  were  in.  I examined  j 
case,  and  found  it  had  not  been  opened  since  noon,  when  each  n, 
had  a small  allowance  of  rum.  After  supper,  and  near  dark, 
went  upon  the  hill,  to  look  out  for  the  man  w'ho  had  been  dispatcl | 
to  the  mountains,  and  staid  about  the  place  till  quite  dark  ; but  1 
no  sight  of  him.  We  became  very  uneasy  about  him  ; some  wer<| 
the  opinion  that  he  had  been  devoured  by  wild  beasts,  and  oth 
that  he  had  found  inhabitants  on  the  mountains  who  detained  In 
This  talk  lasted  half  an  hour,  and  we  then  returned  to  the  tent,  wh(| 
we  all  joined  in  conversation  on  the  subject  of  our  departure  ; evi 
one  agreeing  that  the  long-boat  might  be  near  ready  in  one  day  mcj 
if  every  exertion  were  made  ; and  of  that  I had  no  reason  to  douj 
The  next  topic  of  discourse  was  concerning  the  parts  of  the  wre 
which  we  had  noticed  to  be  lying  along  shore.  The  man  from 
Cape  said  he  had  seen  almost  every  part  of  a ship,  in  his  way  tot 
from  the  Cape,  and  had  observed  particularly  that  the  iron  had  b( 
taken  from  the  wood  ; that  circumstance  we  also  had  noticed 
viewing  the  yards,  cross-trees,  &c.  which  lay  within  our  ship.  1 
all  concluded  that  the  event  of  that  shipwreck  could  not  have  bee: 
long  time  past,  as  the  blacking  on  the  yards  was  not  entirely  cha: 
off.  The  watch  being  set,  tve  went  to  sleep.  I have  no  doubt  <1 
last  thoughts  of  every  one  were  about  the  man  that  went,  to  l i 
mountains  ; there  had  been  so  much  anxiety  expressed  for  his  w 
fare,  which  our  own,  in  part,  depended  on. 

At  dawn  of  day  on  the  6th  we  found  no  person  on  the  watq; 
when,  upon  examining  into  this  matter,  it  was  found  that  Pat  andcj: 
of  the  Danes  had  been  called  at  twelve  to  watch  till  two;  and  tilt 
those  appointed  to  watch  from  two  to  four,  had  not  been  calid! 
This  discovery  immediately  led  us  to  the  two  most  unfeeling  of  mu 
tals,  Pat  and  the  Dane,  who  were  found  behind  the  tent,  and  in  suji 
a condition  as  to  be  unfit  to  be  talked  to.  Upon  which,  without  tj> 
least  hesitation,  I took  my  case  out  of  the  tent,  and  turned  each  bi- 
de up-end  down  : then  1 opened  the  hamper  and  destroyed  evtr 
bottle  of  wine  and  porter  ; doing  this  in  the  presence  of  all,  win 
only  one  dissented,  and  he  a very  sober  man.  Thus  was  ended,  > 
I thought,  every  opportunity  for  intoxication  in  our  company.  U 
all,  excepting  the  two  sleepers,  commenced  our  labour,  rigging  takk 


paddock’s  narrative.  31 

rating  shears,  &c.  in  order  to  raise  the  boat.  In  the  mean  time,  I 
d:  a look  out  on  the  hill,  for  our  absent  man,  but  saw  nothing  of 
li,  and  returned  to  the  tent,  and  called  all  hands  to  breakfast,  which 
r.  prepared  without  the  assistance  of  Pat,  who  had  risen,  and  taken 
•pious  draught  of  water;  after  which  he  joined  the  party,  decla- 
n;  most  solemnly  that  neither  he  nor  his  watchmate  had  tasted  a 
to  of  liquor  that  night.  All  the  reply  was,  a round  of  such  vulgar 
par’s  blessings  as  are  commonly  bestowed  on  such  occasions, 
finking  that  a thing  of  the  kind  could  not  happen  with  us  again, 
dged  it  most  prudent  to  quiet  the  men,  by  telling  them  that  al- 
h.igh  a great  crime,  it  was  not  an  unpardonable  one;  that  our  situ- 
1 n demanding  all  our  strength,  we  had  none  to  wmste  in  alterca- 
ks,  and  so  must  make  the  best  of  it. 

found,  during  the  morning,  that  most  of  the  crew  thought  it  ad- 
i able  to  give  the  two  delinquents  a little  corporal  punishment; 
nin  a moment  as  it  were,  our  attention  was  called  to  viewing  a 
fcnge  track  of  man.  When  we  retired  from  breakfast,  the  person 

Ii  had  been  at  the  Cape  the  day  before,  discovered  the  track  of  a 
t without  shoes,  and  calling  to  one  of  our  men,  he  asked  him  if 
of  them  had  been  barefooted  yesterday ; and  was  answered  in 
negative.  Upon  hearing  that  question  and  the  answer,  I went 
im,  and  soon  was  convinced  that  tve  had  been  visited  the  night 
>re.  We  followed  the  tracks  of  two  men  ; they  had  come  down 
hill  from  the  south-west,  and  had  walked  round  to  the  mouth  of 
tent,  and,  after  going  around  the  tent,  had  returned  by  the  way 
k/’came,  walking  back  over  the  hill  nearly  in  the  same  line  they- 
ff  come  in.  I followed  them  beyond  the  hill  near  a quarter  of  a 
■i,  conjecturing  r likely  that  they  were  in  ambush,  but  found  it 
k so,  from  the  shape  of  the  track  ; for  as  soon  as  they  got  over  the 
ii  they  ran,  which  appeared  by  their  steps  being  longer  and  the 
press  ion  of  their  feet  in  the  sand  deeper.  What  makes  their  get- 
ii  off  undiscovered  the  more  remarkable,  they  had  a dog  with  them, 
it  we  had  a hog  lying  on  the  sand  before  the  tent.  Had  the  dog 
liked,  some  of  us  must  have  heard  it.  So  again,  had  the  watch 
lie  their  duty  (as  probably  they  would,  if  there  had  been  no  liquor 
n!ie  tent)  they  would  have  seen  those  men  approaching,  and  given 
notice  of  it,  we  might  have  secured  them  and  kept  them  in  con- 
iiment;  that  would  have  doubled  our  diligence,  and  in  one  day 
me  wre  might  have  been  at  sea. 

t was  now  9 o’clock,  and  our  man  for  the  mountains  still  missing. 
W called  all  hands  together  upon  this  gloomy  occasion.  Pause 
•f  in,  reader,  and  imagine  yourself  on  the  desert  of  Barbary,  with- 
l*j  a craft  for  leaving  i.t',  and  with  but  little  sustenance  to  support: 
r,  j re  there  ; a most  barbarous  enemy  expected,  every  moment ; 
.1  bones  of  the  murdered  lying  aon-e  ground  at  no  great  distance  ; 
rnsylum  to  flee  to  ! For  mvselt,  even  unto  this  da^-,  my  blood  runs 
cd  at  the  mere  recollection  of  that  dreaQIul  period. 

)ur  poor  sailors  sat  silent  at  this  meeting  ; without  uttering  a wOio. 
ft.y  all  looked  up  to  me  as  their  counsellor.  For  my  own  part. 
Wile  casting  my  eyes  around  me  upon  my  poor  unfortunate  fellow 


32 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE. 


creatures,  among  whom  were  two  fine  little  boys,  one  of  them  \ 
nephew,  I thought  it  too  much  for  human  nature  to  bear ; to  ill 
press  my  tears  was  impossible.  After  collecting  all  the  manly  • I 
I was  master  of,  I begun  to  give  my  opinion  as  to  what  would! 
most  for  our  good.  I observed  to  them  that  the  two  men  who 
discovered  us  would  propably  return  in  a short  time  with  s 
numbers  as  would  overpower  us,  and  then  might  do  with  us  as 
most  for  their  interest,  or  as  best  suited  their  caprice  ; that,  acci 
ing  to  my  calculation,  if  the  Cape  we  saw  was  Nun,  ourdistanc<{ 
St.  Cruez,  on  a straight  line,  was  not  more  than  180  miles,  ancj 
lowing  one  fourth  part  for  going  in  such  a serpentine  line  as  we  I 
reason  to  expect,  we  might  reach  there  in  ten  days  by  easy  marc! 
and  that  five  bottles  of  water  and  twenty  biscuits  a man  would 
port  nature ; more  than  which  we  could  not  take  with  conveniei 
Every  one  agreed  to  the  plan  immediately,  and  to  lake  our  chanc 
meeting  with  obstructions  on  the  way  ; and  the  matter  being  sett 
all  as  one  set  to  work  at  making  knapsacks.  While  that  wrasg( 
on  I took  one  man  with  me  and  buried  in  the  sand  all  our  must 
powder,  shot,  &c.  Some  of  the  sailors  objected  to  that  measure, 
saying  we  might  have  occasion  for  our  guns  to  shoot  the  wild  be 
that  might  annoy  us.  But  I told  them  that  a musket  of  ours  seer 
an  Arab  might  cost  us  our  lives,  as  it  would  carry  a hostile  appi 
ance  at  least,  and  that  in  our  warmth  we  might  be  led  to  make  an1 
proper  use  of  our  weapons.  They  at  last  pleaded  for  a pistol, 
hoxvever,  buried  the  whole,  and  laid  a stone  over  the  place. 

By  this  time  the  man  from  the  mountains  made  his  appearai 
coming  along  shore  from  the  eastward,  and  when  he  joined  us 
were  near  ready  for  a march  : we  all  stopt  our  business  to  hear 
story.  He  told  us  that  in  travelling  for  the  mountains  which  I 
pointed  out  to  him,  he  walked  a few  miles  over  sand  hills  drifted  i 
snow  banks,  which  was  very  fatiguing  to  him.  From  those  s; 
hills  he  came  to  a flat  as  level  as  the  sea,  running  east  and  west,  all 
12  miles  across,  and  of  so  great  length  that  he  could  not  see  eit 
end  of  it:  with  great  difficulty  he  got  o^er  those  banks,  and  arrii 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  At  that  time  he  saw  a man  or  pert 
with  a camel  travelling  westward.  As  soon  as  he  got  sight  of  him 
laid  down  till  he  had  passed,  and  remained  there  till  there  was  not  < 
least  chance  of  his  being  discovered  ; for  when  he  arose  the  pert 
and  camel  were  a long  way  to  the  westward  of  him,  still  travel)! 
on.  He  then  proceeded  to  the  top  of  the  mountains,  which  c. 
sisted  of  sand  and  rocks,  without  any  appearance  either  of  vegc 
tion  or  water.  Having  accomplished  this  much,  he,  agreeably 
his  orders,  pushed  on  as  fast  as  he  could  for  the  ship,  and  when! 
had  come  again  upon  the  flat  aforementioned,  not  knowing  the  st ; 
he  got  bewildered,  and  laid  dow"  and  slept.  At  the  dawn  of  day  f 
made  the  hp^*  his  way  and  when  he  had  come  in  sighu 

the  ^ on  the  bank  of  h he  saw7  the  ship  several  miles  to  the  w<  • 
■ard  of  him  ; whereupon  making  all  haste,  he  joined  us.  He  said  f 
had  travelled  at  least  fifty  miles  in  the  time;  and  I have  nodoubi. 
"he  truth  of  it,  as  he  was  a landsman,  and  used  to  travelling  on  jo- 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE.  & 

es.  He  made  a hearty  breakfast  while  one  of  his  shipmates  was 
xng  a knapsack  for  him. 

■'uring  all  the  time  the  arrangement  was  making  I was  left  ignor- 
nas  to  what  part  of  the  luggage  I should  carry  myself.  The 
»>rs  had  agreed  among  themselves  that  I should  walk  unincum- 
e d,  and  that  my  part  of  the  burden  should  be  borne  by  them, 
bn  informed  of  this,  1 concluded  to  carry  my  spy  glass  and  um- 
rda,  and  a copper  tea  kettle  full  of  water  to  be  used  first,  and  some 

1 date  and  sugar  in  my  pockets  to  use  in  case  we  should  be  so 
>nnate  as  to  find  water  on  our  journey.  When  it  was  announced 
u;  we  were  all  ready  for  a march,  I changed  my  clothes,  put  on  a 
a of  fine  worsted  stockings,  a pair  of  new  corduroy  pantaloons, 

] ir  of  new  half  boots,  a new  linen  shirt  and  neck  handkerchief, 
sk  vest,  a nearly  new  superfine  broadcloth  coat,  and  a new  bea- 
inat ; a gold  watch  I took  along  with  me,  and  also  put  in  my 
>:et  gold  of  the  value  of  600  dollars.  This  done,  I called  my 
e to  me,  and  gave  them  the  remainder  of  my  clothing. 

dack  man  Jack  had  previously  taken  some  fine  shirts  into  his 
f:  for  me,  which  he  did  without  my  knowledge  or  direction. 

’i  n they  had  all  helped  themselves  with  the  best  of  my  clothing 
tin  the  trunk,  they  discovered  two  pieces  of  tabanet  in  the  bottom 
lit  and  asking  me  vrhat  it  was,  I told  them  it  was  two  gown-pat- 
r which  I had  bought  in  Ireland  for  my  wife,  and  that  it  was  best 
1:;  it  alone,  for  they  had  luggage  enough  already.  Jack,  who 
a at  a little  distance  from  the  trunk,  on  discovering  the  matter  we 
e talking  about,  rushed  forward  and  got  hold  of  the  pieces,  say- 

2 Master,  my  mistress  shall  wear  these  gowns  yet.  I told  him  he 
lalready  too  much  to  carry,  and  that  his  mistress  would  never  see 
ice  patterns.  She  shall,  master , depend  on  it,  replied  Jack,  they 
' too  pretty  to  leave  here  ; — and  he  packed  them  up.  Little  did  I 
e think  my  wife  would  ever  see  either  of  those  pieces  ; but  she 
it  and  that  same  tabanet  she  has  occasionally  worn  to  this  day. 

hen  nearly  ready  for  a start,  my  mate  wrote  up  the  log  book 
tt  l finished  my  journal ; corn  was  put  in  the  place  for  the  hog  to 
tind  water  to  drink.  All  things  were  now  prepared,  and  we  on 
eiointof  moving,  when  one  of  the  sailors  said,  “ let  us  depart  under 

g colours the  others  joined  him,  and  we  were  detained  till 
e had  erected  a pole  on  the  hill,  and  hoisted  a very  handsome  en- 


34 


paddock’s  narrative. 

CHAP.  III. 

Our  powerful  emotions  on  taking  our  leave  of  the  ship — My  counsel  to  the  cr< 
Our  alarm ;ng  discovery  of  numerous  tracks  of  travellers — Our  first  night  spe 
a remarkable  cave — The  painfulness  of  our  journey  over  sand  hills  and  sharp  p 
ed  rocks — A vast  bed  of  sail  mistaken  by  us  for  a pond — A groupe  of  unten; 
hou-es  discovered  by  us — Description  of  them,  and  our  conjecture  concerning 
origin — Description  of  a fine  bay  in  which  Vve  bathed  ourselves — Appalling  c 
very  of  a quantity  of  human  hair  in  a cask,  and  a heap  of  human  bones — Ourai 
ance  in  the  night  time  by  the  near  approach  and  dismal  howlings  of  wild  bea 
Fat  the  second  lime  drunk  jon  his  watch — The  mystery  unravelled  as  to  he 
came  by  his  liquor — The  inclination  of  the  crew  to  stone  him— My  remonst 
against  it — A horrid  tale  of  his  life  from  his  own  mouth — Marks  of  discontent 
sourness  among  the  crew — Disclosure  of  a settled  purpose  to  return  back — IV 
effectual  reasonings  and  entreaties  to  the  contrary — Our  affectionate  parting; 
seif  and  three  of  my  men  proceeding  towards  St.  Cruez,  and  my  mate  and  the 
others  going  back  for  the  ship. 

On  we  started,  taking  our  course  up  the  hill  in  a south-east d 
tion,  towards  the  level  ground  which  my  man  from  the  moun 
had  spoken  of.  Arriving  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  all  at  that, 
ment  halted,  and  looked  around  us  to  take  a last  farewell  of  the, 
which  still  lay  with  her  head  to  the  eastward,  with  her  main-topi 
lant-sail  set,  her  hull  nearly  covered  with  the  foaming  billows,  i 
ing  then  high  water.  In  the  look  of  every  countenance  were 
fear  and  dismay  ; not  a word  uttered  ; all  seemed  with  one  acco 
turn  "away  from  her.  At  about  1 0 o’clock  we  started  again  on 
march.  After  walking  about  two  hours  over  sand  drifts,  some 
and  others  twenty  feet  high,  which  were  exceeding  difficult  t< 
cend,  being  in  many  places  perpendicular,  so  that  we  frequently 
to  follow  along  a bank  for  some  time  to  find  a place  for  our  asa 
after  this  fatiguing  walk,  in  one  of  the  valleys  we  all  sat  dou 
rest  ourselves.  I then  took  that  opportunity  to  furnish  every  I 
with  one  and  the  same  story  to  tell  in  cas«  we  should  be  separ1 
This  I thought  necessary,  because  contradictory  accounts  give 
us  would  be  likely  to  expose  us  to  greater  sufferings  than  we  i 
have  to  endure  if  the  stories  of  us  all  should  prove  consistent, 
each  other.  Accordingly  we  agreed  to  say  that  the  ship  iva 
Oswego  of  Liverpool,  bound  from  Cork  to  the  Cape  de  Verdisi 
after  a load  of  salt,  and  from  thence  to  New- York  : and  to  giv 
names  as  they  were,  and  all  call  ourselves  Englishmen.  I told  ( 
the  reasons  for  substituting  Liverpool  for  New-York  as  the  hoi 
our  ship,  and  for  calling  ourselves  Englishmen  instead  of  A : 
cans,  were,  that  the  English  -had  a considerable  trade  on  that  <S 
particularly  at  Mogadore  : that  some  of  their  ships  I had  knot!1 
have  loaded  at  St.  Cruez  ; that  I never  had  heard  of  but  one  Ale 
can  vessel  trading  there ; that,  without  doubt,  the  English  < 
consul  both  at  St.  Cruez  and  Mogadore,  and  perhaps  at  other  ) 
ces  on  the  coast ; that  Delano  and  his  crew  were  ransomed  1 1 
English  consul  on  the  coast,  but  that  I could  not  remember  w ■ 
finally,  I observed  to  them  that  we  also  might  have  consuls  at  < 
places,  but  that  it  was  doubtful.  Moreover,  I enjoined  it  upon  je 
in  case  of  separation,  that  it  should  be  the  study  of  every  o 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


35 

ku  the  language  of  those  we  should  fall  amongst,  to  give  notice  to 
n Christian  when  an  opportunity  offered  for  the  safety  of  the  whole, 
cnnot  but  think  the  English  reader,  considei-ing  the  forlorn  con- 
ion  I was  in,  will  excuse  my  claiming  the  protection  of  his  flag, 
vssuming  a false  national  name.  I had  no  remorse  at  the  time  I 
cnselled  my  men  in  that  manner,  nor  has  the  deed  occasioned  that 
jiijing  in  me  at  any  time  since. 

eing  rested,  we  proceeded  on  about  south-east,  over  sand  hills, 

■ iJabout  one  o’clock,  when  we  came  to  the  level  ground  that  my 
■i  had  spoken  of,  which  was  about  8 miles  from  the  ship;  it  had 
*y  appearance  of  once  having  been  the  bed  of  the  sea.  The 
Ige  of  mountains  to  the  south  appeared  very  high,  and  as  barren 
say  man  had  described  them.  In  looking  west,  the  flat  appeared 
oontinue  at  least  as  far  as  the  eye  could  discern  ; but  eastward  it 
r ned  to  terminate  at  a few  miles  distant.  On  seeing  tracks  of 
if  s.es,  (and  from  what  we  found  afterwards,)  of  camels  and  asses, 
vmade  a short  retrograde  march,  and  dined  behind  some  small 
it  J hills.  The  excessive  heat  of  the  weather,  occasioned  by  a 
M/erful  scorching  sun,  and  the  reflection  of  its  rays  from  the  burn- 
in  sands,  caused  among  us  a general  head  ache  and  burning  thirst. 
A dined  on  dry  bread.  One  of  our  sailors  having  a leg  of  boiled 
ic  pork,  I persuaded  him  to  throw  it  away,  as  it  would  increase 
isf  thirst.  We  each  took  from  the  copper  tea  kettle  a small  tum- 
Ir  of  water,  which  we  had  already  begun  to  know  the  value  of. 
Aout  2 o’clock  we  began  our  march  eastward  on  the  hard  sand ; 
W travelled  till  after  sunset,  going  at  least  fifteen  miles  before  we 
eched  the  end  of  the  distance  which  we  had  calculated  to  be  only 
3 ery  few  miles.  The  flat  ended  in  nearly  the  form  of  the  small 
f;  1 of  an  egg ; at  the  very  point  of  it  was  a cave  in  a rock,  formed, 
ait  would  seem  from  its  appearance,  by  the  whirling  of  an  eddy-cur- 
r it  on  a cape  where  the  tide  sets  strong.  In  this  afternoon’s  march, 
ien  we  were  near  the  sands  lying  on  the  north  side  of  this  level, 
v always  saw  tracks  of  man  or  beast : in  every  instance  they  were 
a pointing  westward.  From  that  circumstance  we  drew  the  conclu- 
s n that  the  drought  at  the  eastward  was  too  distressing  to  be  borne, 
id  that  the  natives  were  bound  westward  for  water  ; which  circum- 
s nee  rendered  it  necessary  for  us  to  avoid  such  travellers  as  we 
vre  likely  to  meet. 

Into  the  aforementioned  cave  we  all  entered,  and  were  complete- 
i covered  by  the  rocks  that  projected  over  our  heads  ; at  the  same 
fie  finding  room  enough  there  for  more  than  our  number.  We  set 
<r  watch  at  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  with  three  men  on  each  watch, 
iy  two  mates  and  myself  took  the  first  watch,  which  was  to  be  con- 
tmed  till  midnight.  Our  reason  for  so  doing  was,  our  thinking  it 
jobable  that  some  travellers  having  knowledge  of  that  place,  might 
fit  it  in  the  early  part  of  the  night.  However,  we  were  left  in  qui- 
S and  slept  well  till  the  dawn  of  day.  On  the  7th,  when  we  sup- 
ised  ourselves  to  be  7 or  8 miles  from  the  sea,  being  prepared  to 
part,  we  ascended  the  rock  under  which  we  had  slept ; it  was 
'ont  20  feet  above  the  level  that  has  been  spoken  of.  We  then 


36 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE. 

took  up  the  line  of  our  march  in  Indian  file,  and  walked  along  h!j 
foot-path,  which,  from  appearances,  had  been  lately  trodden  by  n 
and  beast.  As  was  before  observed,  every  track  showed  the  tl! 
veiling  to  be  westward,  which  added  to  our  fears,  as  we  though  j 
we  fell  in  with  natives  bound  that  way  we  should  be  compelled 
go  along  with  them;  on  what  conditions  we  could  only  conjectu 
This  one  thing,  however,  we  knew  for  a certainty,  namely,  that  tl 
Avas  not  the  course  for  avoiding  the  misery  of  perpetual  slave: 
which  constantly  stared  us  in  the  face. 

About  8 o’clock  we  halted  for  breakfast,  and  upon  examination 
found  that  several  of  our  bottles  had  been  broken.  That  accid' 
happened  no  doubt  the  day  before,  while  wre  were  ascending  and  < 
scending  those  lofty  hills.  Indeed,  wre  discovered  some  damage  i 
the  kind  at  the  time  it  happened ; the  descent  was  far  worse,  as  I 
dangers  of  this  sort,  than  the  ascent ; for  while  descending  we  oft 
lost  our  foot-hold,  and  slid  or  rolled  down  hill.  Our  breakfast  cc 
sisted  of  a little  dry  bread,  and  to  each  a tumbler  of  water  from  1 
tea  kettle.  About  9 we  renewed  our  march,  the  ground  being  mi 
more  rocky  ; in  many  places  where  the  sand  had  blown  off,  the  sk 
points  of  the  rocks  had  cut  our  boots  and  shoes  very  badly, 
often  as  we  could  find  it  we  kept  the  foot-path,  which  was  nearly 
an  east  course.  The  long  ridge  of  mountains  on  the  right  we  w< 
gaining  towards  fast ; I should  judge  they  were  from  four  to  five  hij 
dred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  were  very  ragged.  T 
sand  banks  on  our  left  were  increasing  in  size  and  number ; but  t|i 
main  bearing  of  our  walk  was  on  nearly  a level,  though  we  ofl|i 
crossed  sand  hills  from  four  to  ten  feet  high. 

About  1 1 o’clock,  having  arrived  near  to  the  foot  of  those  motil 
tains,  several  of  our  sailors  proposed  to  me  to  ascend  them ; sayi 
Ave  might  possibly  find  a lake  of  fresh  water  there.  That  war 
very  powerful  motive;  for,  from  the  dreariness  of  the  country,  a 
our  breaking  a bottle  of  water  every  now  and  then,  our  fears  wc 
increasing  as  to  the  privation  of  the  article  which  we  could  not  li 
ivithout  long.  The  sun  was  so  extremely  hot  that  we  were  co 
pletely  wet  with  perspiration,  and  of  course  burning  with  thirst.  1 
all  agreed  to  go  up  ; and  without  much  difficulty  we  reached  the  t 
about  noon,  having  mostly^  rocks  to  travel  over.  On  the  height  t 
surface  looked  level,  consisting  mostly  of  flat  rocks.  In  going  ea 
ward  only  a few  rods,  one  of  our  men  called  out,  there  is  a pon 
we  all  looked  at  it  : it  was  two  or  three  miles  distant,  and  lx 
about  south-east.  I proposed  for  one  or  two  to  go  to  it,  and  that  l 
remainder  of  the  party  should  travel  on  about  an  east  course,  f 
order  to  bring  it  abeam,  and  there  stop  till  it  should  be  ascertain 
Avhether  it  was  water  or  not.  Two  went  off  with  a quick  step,  and  t 
rest  of  us  kept  on  as  was  proposed.  I did,  with  my  glass,  distinct 
see  them  stoop  down  to  drink,  as  we  supposed.  They,  howevi 
soon  made  for  us,  and  each  brought  a handful  of  clear  salt ; th 
said  they  had  dug  with  a stone  into  it,  and  that  it  appeared  for 
mile  in$  diameter  to  be  a bed  of  salt,  which,  according  to  o 
calculation,  was  more  than  four  hundred  feet  above  the  face  of  t 


haddock’s  narrative.  37 

c at  that  time  in  sight,  bearing  from  north-west  to  north-east,  and 
carently  five  or  six  miles  distant. 

ye  descended,  and  stopped  under  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and 
r e we  dined  on  such  fare  as  we  had  commonly  eat  of  since  leav- 
n the  ship.  After  a short  stop  we  proceeded  on  but  a little  dis- 
ire,  in  an  E.  N.  E.  direction,  along  under  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
«|,  and  found  the  travelling  very  bad,  owing  to  sharp  rocks  and 
all  steep  sand  hills,  which  occasioned  the  breaking  of  some  of  our 
rles  of  water,  and  of  cutting  our  shoes.  We  then  concluded  to 
almore  to  the  northward,  and  see  if  we  could  find  it  more  tolera- 
j travelling  on  the  bank.  When  we  had  arrived  at  the  sea  coast 
nfound  the  bank  perpendicular,  with  the  sea  breaking  against  its 
|r,s,  and,  in  some  places,  the  bank  consisting  of  huge  rocks,  hang- 
n over  so  far  that  we  dropped  stones  which  fell  into  the  water  many 
m from  the  shore.  Meanwhile  the  wind  blew  fresh,  three  or  four 
mts  on  shore,  with  a heavy  sea,  W'hich  made  the  appearance  hor- 
se. A ship  running  against  these  rocks,  would,  in  our  opinion, 
(dashed  to  pieces  in  a few  minutes,  without  her  keel  touching  the 
Horn.  The  sight  was  too  gloomy  to  behold. 

Fe  had  proceeded  but  a few  rods,  when  suddenly  there  appeared 
ois  a town  at  a distance  of  not  more  than  a quarter  of  a mile;  it 
t behind  sand  hills,  or  we  should  have  discovered  it  from  the 
auntains.  We  all  stopt  as  suddenly  as  if  thunderstruck,  each  of 
.sooking  to  discover  some  of  the  human  species  there ; but  none 

{eared.  I proposed  to  our  men  that  they  all  should  sit  down  to 
vent  our  appearance  being  alarming,  and  I would  approach 
le,  because  from  only  one  no  alarm  would  be  excited  ; they  all 
caed  to  it.  I then  walked  on,  while  one  of  them  stretched  up  his 
tk  to  witness  my  reception.  When  arrived,  I found  a cluster  of 
pses,  from  twenty  to  thirty  in  number,  and  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
care,  without  roofs,  each  having  a door-way  on  the  south  side,  in- 
herently well  built,  without  mortar.  I made  a signal  to  my  men 
> l a handkerchief  on  my  umbrella,  and  they  all  came  in  speed. 
B walked  all  around  those  buildings,  conjecturing  the  cause  of  this 
Aiupe,  when  we  found,  on  the  north  side  of  the’northernmost  house, 
libral  casks  of  about  100  gallons  with  one  head  out.  From  theap- 
r ranee  of  the  hoops  and  staves  we  took  them  to  have  been  French 
’indy  casks.  The  wooden  hoops  were  mostly  left  on  them  ; but 
i iron  ones  were  all  gone.  In  one  of  them  there  was  a large  quan- 
i of  human  hair.  Upon  looking  into  that  cask,  one  of  my  men 
claimed,  O my  God!  we  are  in  a savage  inhospitable  land;  these 
nr  fellows  who  were  lately  here  have  been  murdered  : then  turn- 
r to  me,  he  said,  what  think  you  of  it  ? I told  him  frankly  we  had 
'-tsetofear  much  trouble  ; that  we  must  be  guarded  against  the 
Wj-st ; that  defence  was  out  of  the  question,  and  we  must  submit  to 
] Lord’s  will. 

Ve  were  then  within  a hundred  yards  of  the  sea,  the  sight  of 
wich  was  obscured  by  a sand  bank  which  lay  along  north  of  us. 
Cje  of  the  men  ascended  it,  and  called  out,  here  is  a fine  bay ! 
B n which  we  all  concluded  to  go  there  and  bathe  ourselves.  On 


38 


paddock’s  Narrative. 


the  edge  of  the  hill  above  the  beach  (that  hill  being  not  more  tl 
twenty  feet  high)  we  took  off  our  luggage,  and  put  it  all  togethei 
one  place  to  prevent  improper  use  of  the  materials  of  it.  I tl 
observed  that  in  one  man’s  pack  there  was  a broken  bottle,  the  \ 
ter  draining  through  the  canvass,  and  we  all,  as  one,  regretted 
loss  of  that  invaluable  article,  of  which  too  much  had  been  was 
before,  though  in  most  instances  unavoidably. 

Being  prepared,  we  all  stripped  and'  went  into  the  water ; th 
that  could  swim  went  off  at  a distance;  others  kept  in  the  sh 
water,  which  was  as  clear  as  I ever  saw  any,  with  a fine  sandy  t 
tom.  I walked  off  till  the  water  was  up  to  my  neck,  and  then  sw 
out  to  a little  distance,  and  sounded,  and  found  nine  or  ten  feet  w 
in  a cable’s  length  of  the  shore.  After  bathing  half  an  hour,  wh, 
was  very  refreshing,  and  seemed  to  allay  our  thirst,  we  all  return 
to  the  shore,  dressed  ourselves,  and  opened  every  pack,  when  ; 
found  that  one-third  of  our  water  had  been  destroyed  by  breaks 
which  was  felt  by  us  as  a great  loss.  On  that  occasion  some  of  tl ; 
began  to  accuse  certain  others  of  negligence,  giving  them  reprJ 
which  1 thought  rather  too  severe  ; we,  however,  presently  agrl 
to  make  the  best  of  it,  and  be  more  careful  for  the  future. 

At  the  moment  that  we  were  about  to  depart  we  discovered  a j| 
track  of  a man,  and,  upon  examining  it,  we  were  of  the  opinion  i| 
not  many  hours  before  a man  had  passed  along  the  place  where ) 
then  were,  bound  westward.  That  excited  so  much  curiosity,  nj 
gled  with  fear,  that  one  of  our  men  ran  up  the  bank  to  look  wejtvvj 
for  the  traveller,  supposing  that  he  could  not  yet  be  out  of  sight,  t 
he  could  not  see  him.  He  joined  us,  and  we  all  went  up  to  the  pi  t 
where  the  houses  were.  When  the  question  concerning  the  cat 
of  those  buildings  was  discussed,  we  all  united  in  the  opinion  l[i 
the  wreck  we  had  seen  was  that  of  a ship  which  had  borne  m ) 
unhappy  men  to  this  dreary  shore,  and  that  for  their  own  preseij,. 
tion  they  had  built  those  cabins,  and  had  made  use  of  their  sails  i 
a covering.  We  then  took  another  view  of  the  harbour;  ant 
more  beautiful  one  I never  saw.  As  near  as  we  could  calcul  5 
the  distance  across  it  was  about  three  miles  : the  two  points  at  ! 
were  broad,  closing  to  within  one  mile  ; a ledge  of  rocks  on  ej( 
point,  leaving  a fair  entrance  of  half  a mile  in  width,  consistin') 
deep  water.  Against  those  ledges  the  sea  broke  violently,  bu  i 
the  harbour  it  was  smooth.  From  the  windward  side  of  the  1 
bour  a ship  might  lie  out  very  well,  with  the  wind  as  it  then  v[: 
which  blew  strong,  four  points  on  shore,  or  at  north-east.  Had  ,i 
situation  been  less  deplorable  I should  have  been  led  to  exan 
this  fine  looking  harbour  more  particularly.  Should  any  natjc  i 
vessels  ever  undertake  to  survey  this  coast,  they  will,  beyond  do' I 
visit  it.  From  our  judgment,  being  on  shore,  it  would  appear  f : 
the  offing  a nearly  straight  shore,  as  the  two  outer  points  or  cb> 
of  the  harbour  would,  except  being  near  in,  seem  near  to  close.  On| 
west  side  of  the  harbour,  where  we  stood  to  look  at  it,  the  bank  i 
high,  and  from  sea  board  vmuld,  in  my  opinion,  appear  like  a 1; 
round  knoll.  The  mountain  back  only  a few  miles  distant  wo 


paddock’s  narrative. 


39 


ipear  black  ; at  least  a dark  rock  colour,  and  the  top  flat  for  seve- 
miles  each  way,  running  E.  N.  E.  and  W.  S.  W.  It  was  on 
ft  nearly  flat  mountain  we  saw  the  salt  pond. 

3ur  next  object  was  to  travel  on,  being  then  about  45  miles  from 
iy  ship.  Accordingly  we  began  our  march,  and  for  some  reason 
vich  I don’t  recollect,  one  man  and  myself  were  left  a little  behind, 

3 did  not  start  with  the  rest ; they  were  a quarter  of  a mile  ahead 
wen  we  started.  The  man  was  the  same  one  who  had  been  sent 
•mew  the  Cape  which  v/e  had  taken  for  Nun.  We  did  not  take 
dir  track,  but  to  shorten  the  distance,  went  a little  more  north- 

ird.  About  fifty  yards  from  those  cabins  he  saw  a pile  of  human 
ies  on  our  left,  and  exclaimed,  “ O Lord,  protect  us  ; look  at  these 
lies  : now  do  you  believe  I saw  human  bones  at  the  Cape  ?”  We 
•pt  only  for  a minute,  when,  within  ten  feet  of  us,  there  was  a pile 
o human  bones.  Having  but  an  imperfect  view  of  them,  I can  only 
s i there  were  many  ; to  speak  safely,  I should  think  as  many  as 
c lid  be  contained  in  a hogshead.  Yet,  considering  the  agitation 
omind  I was  in,  it  would  be  nothing  strange  if  the  quantity  were 
tlee  times  as  great,  or  but  half  so  great,  as  it  appeared  to  me. 
d ink  of -my  situation  at  the  time  ; what  a horrid  spectacle  before 
;i  ! I had  once  been  in  a Portuguese  golgotha,  and  I remember  the 
|ick  that  gave  me,  though  I went  thither  voluntarily,  and  merely 
ci  of  curiosity  ; but  that  spectacle,  horrible  as  it  was,  was  as  no- 
t ng  in  comparison  with  the  sight  of  these  human  sculls,  viewed  in 
canexion  with  the  consciousness  of  the  dreadfully  perilous  condi- 
t n We  were  in.  My  reader  can  now  be  at  no  loss  for  the  reason 
vy,  so  soon  after,  we  left  the  [stone  huts,  the  human  hair,'  andphe 
pees  of  the  wreck. 

Our  men  were  still  at  some  distance  ahead,  which  gave  to  us  two 
t opportunity  to  converse  together  concerning  that  and  other  things 
uich  we  had  seen.  He  told  me  he  had  not  mentioned  what  he  had 
sen  at  the  Cape  to  any  one  but  myself,  and  that  his  opinion  as  to 
te  cause  of  the  bones  being  there  was  not  altered ; and  now,  said 
1,  this  is,  to  my  mind,  a confirmation  of  the  fact  that  we  are  among 
tnnibals,  as  in  several  places  about  these  huts  there  had  been  fires, 
i t not  recent.  I had  my  fears  of  its  being  as  he  thought.  We  coll- 
uded our  conversation  by  saying,  that  if  the  men  ahead  had  not 
;en  ihese  bones,  we  would  keep  the  matter  to  ourselves  ; that  as 
i Were  gaining  on  them,  we  should  soon  know  if  they  had  seen 
em.  We  joined  them,  and  as  they  said  nothing  to  us  about  seeing 
e bones,  we  never  mentioned  the  thing  to  them.  ~We  now  stopt, 
id  finished  the  water  from  the  tea  kettle.  The  sun  was  burning 
>t,  and  what  with  our  thick  clothing  and  heavy  packs,  and  what 
ith  our  being  unaccustomed  to  travel  over  sand  banks,  and  hard 
id  uneven  rocky  ground  ; the  sweat  rolled  off  our  faces  profusely, 
very  countenance  was  sad,  and  some  sullen ; still  there  was  not  so 
uch  murmuring  as  might  have  been  expected  among  such  a varietv 
'dispositions,  and  more  especially  among  men  who  had  lived  long 
ider  a strict  discipline,  and  were  now  on  an  equal  footing  with 
jiose  that  had  commanded  them. 


40 


paddock’s  narrative. 

The  ridge  of  mountains  spoken  of  before  was  now  fast  drawi 
towards  the  sea ; from  the  huts  to  their  foot  was  not  more  than  s 
miles.  We  resolved,  after  resting  but  a few  minutes,  to  draw  l 
wards  them,  and  sleep  under  their  cliffs,  which  in  many  places  we 
perpendicular.  One  great  inducement  for  so  doing  was,  that  at  t 
time  we  were  conversing  about  it,  there  were  seen  fresh  marks 
men  and  beasts,  all  fronting  westward  as  before.  At  the  dusk 
the  evening  we  saw  several  wild  beasts  at  a short  distance  from  i i 
buL  could  not  make  out  of  what  kind  they  were  ; our  first  fears  wc 
of  tigers.  On  approaching  them  they  stood  still  and  looked  at 
till  we  were  within  fifty  paces  of  them,  when  they  turned,  and  ruri 
short  distance,  and  then  turned  about  and  looked  at  us  again.  0 
of  our  sailors  said  he  knew  them  to  be  hyenas ; that  he  had  oft 
seen  that  species  of  animals  in  Asia.  We  sought  out  a good  plat 
took  each  a piece  of  bread  and  a small  quantity  of  water,  bare 
enough  to  wet  our  parching  mouths  and  throats,  set  the  watch,  a 
lay  down,  very  much  fatigued.  We  had  scarcely  got  still  before  ■ 
seemed  to  be  attacked,  by  those  beasts  howling  dreadfully  ; we  bei 
on  three  sides  of  us  too  near  the  perpendicular  rocks  for  those  ferocic  > 
-animals  to  get  in  our  rear.  Upon  that  sudden  alarm  we  arose,  ter 
each  a stone  to  defend  ourselves  with,  walked  a little  way  towai 
them,  and,  it  being  too  dark  for  us  to  see  any  of  our  invaders, 
returned  back  to  our  lodgings.  We  had  a good  horn  lantern,  in  ij 
candle,  and  good  fire-works  and  matches,  so  that  a light  could  ha 
been  had  in  a minute.  We  laid  our  weapons  of  defence  by  cj 
sides ; I gave  the  watch  orders,  in  case  of  alarm,  to  light  the  cant 
and  call  all  hands.  A fire  we  durst  not  make  for  fear  of  being  dl 
covered  by  the  natives,  whom  we  were  every  moment  in  apprehe 
sion  of  seeing  ; still  we  had  a hope  thatjby  a good  look  out  we  shot 
avoid  them  till  such  time  as  we  should  get  near,  or  nearer  than  i] 
then  were,  to  some  place  of  relief, 

Our  distance  from  the  ship,  by  calculation,  was  now  fifty  mil' 
WTe  soon  fell  into  a quiet  sleep,  and  were  awaked  by  nothing  el 
but  the  changing  of  the  watch.  It  so  happened  that  Pat  and  I 
Dane  were  on  the  watch  : those  two  who  had  done  us  so  much  1 
jury,  and,  in  the  opinion  of  several  at  least,  prevented  us  from  gi 
ting  away  in  our  boat,  by  their  being  drunk  and  asleep  when  i 
were  discovered  by  the  two  Arabs  spoken  of  before,  who  otherwi 
might  have  been  secured.  At  the  dawn,  on  the  8th,  we  were  awak 
by  an  unusual  noise,  which  started  the  whole  crew.  The  cause  ‘ 
it  was  soon  obvious  enough ; the  two  watchmen  were  quarrclli 
about  the  other  drink.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  Pat  had  carrier; 
bottle  of  gin  in  his  pack,  which,  on  a former  examination,  had  pas 
ed  very  well  for  water,  the  colour  being  the  same  ; all  along  un 
this  time  those  watchmates  were  equally  concerned  in  the  frau 
Pat  was  now  too  drunk  to  stand ; the  other  not  so  drunk,  and  1 
story  we  got,  which  was  as  follows When  they  robbed  the  ca 
on  the  beach,  they  put  away  in  the  sand  one  bottle,  over  and  abo 
what  they  had  drank,  and  when  we  filled  our  packs  at  the  ship,  1 
the  Dane,  managed  it  so  as  to  put  that  bottle  in  Pat’s  knapsack,  a 


PADDOCK?S  ' NARRATIVE. 


41 


a promised  to  keep  it  until  we  should  arrive  to  a place  where  we 
ii.it  drink  plenty  of  watei,  and  while  on  this  watch,  Pat  said  they 

0 d finish  it  without  being  discovered.  They  opened  the  pack 

1 eed  which  had  never  been  allowed  except  all  were  present)  and 
k:  out  the  gin,  and  along  with  it  a bottle  of  water,  and  sipped  out 
f ich  a while  ; so  thirsty  they  were  in  sipping,  in  about  equal  por- 
0?,  that  Pat  finished  the  water,  and  they  then  took  out  another 
ole  of  water.  By  this  time  the  operation  of  the  gin  was  so  pow- 
r:l  that  Pat  challenged  the  whole  to  himself.  A battle  ensued; 
n in  their  struggle  for  the  gin,  they  overset  the  half- packed  knap- 
jr  on  the  rocks,  and  broke  several  bottles  : the  noise  that  this 
vt  e awoke  us  all.  Judge  of  our  consternation,  having  before  this 
othe  least  idea  of  any  liquor  being  in  our  camp. 

at  was  very  drunk  : the  Dane  said  he  had  advised  him  not  to 
J the  bottle  out  at  that  time,  but  to  wait  till  we  should  find  wa- 
ul but  Pat  insisted  that  the  gin  was  his,  and  he  would  take  a 
r k,  and  give  him  one,  and  then  put  it  up  again  ; that  the  taste  of 
agin  created  thirst,  which  before  was  very  severe,  and  was  what 
inted  them  to  steal  a little  water,  intending  himself  to  drink  only 
file,  and  then  put  all  away  again  ; that  Pat  swore  he  would  finish 
, nd  drink  as  much  as  he  had  a mind  to  ; and  that  when  remon- 
-.nce  was  in  vain,  he  (the  Dane)  thought  he  would  drink  too,  but 
e ared  he  was  very  sorry  for  it. 

ur  men  were  so  exasperated,  I did  believe  if  I had  not  been  there 
awouldhave  been  stoned  to  death,  and  that  there  was  not  one  of 
in  but  would  have  been  willing  to  cast  the  first  stone.  This  was 
inecond  grand  offence ; and  they  all  declared  it  was  more  than 
u it  to  be  borne  by  human  beings.  I was  left  alone  to  plead  Pat’s 
a e ; and  it  was  merely  to  save  his  life  that  I did  it,  for  1 confess 
jyeelings  were  wrought  up  to  a high  pitch  against  that  most  un- 
r.cipled  and  unfeeling  rascal : yet  if  any  violence  had  been  done 
it  I should  have  been  censured  by  the  community  as  the  ISfipIteed 
a e of  it ; had  I been  otherwise  situated  with  the  crew,  or  in  the 
ii»  situation  as  the  rest  of  them,  it  is  very  probable  that  Pat 
dd  have  fared  badly,  but  not  worse  than  his  deserts.  Pat  was 
n drunk  to  stand,  and  after  waiting  an  hour  for  him  to  come  to 
ii self,  a motion  was  made  at  last,  and  carried  without  a dissenting 

0 e,  to  take  away  what  little  of  water  and  bread  there  was  left  in  his 
nasack,  and  march  off  and  leave  him.  I then  proposed  to  them 
> ave  him  his  share  of  each  ; but  being  overpowered  by  numbers, 

( ook  our  departure,  and  left  the  poor  object  laying  on  the  ground 
j ie  a martyr  to  gin.  We  had  proceeded  not  more  than  a quarter 
f mile  when  I prevailed  on  them  to  stop,  and  one  of  them  return- 
lack  with  me,  and  we  took  him  up,  one  under  each  arm,  and 
tied  him  along  to  our  company,  whose  wrathful  dispositions  to- 
cls  him  were  not  in  the  least  abated.  I told  them  it  would  be 
'■cruel  to  murder  him  on  the  spot  than  to  leave  him  to  linger  out 

1 but  few  days  in  misery. 

hey  remained  inflexible : whereupon  one  of  them  gave  me  a 
'5  of  his  historv,  which  they  had  had  from  himself  on  the  passage,  a 

6 


haddock’s  narrative. 


-C-w 

little  before  we  were  wrecked ; this  was  it: — -In  1799,  and  ihe  I 
ginning  of  ' SOD,  he  commanded  a company,  consisting  of  those  w 
were  called  the  insurgents  ; he  boasted  of  having  destroyed, 
cutting  their  throats,  a number  who  adhered  to  the  king’s  par 
that  at  one  time,  he  and  his  company,  in  a dark  night,  murdered 
discriminately  a number  of  persons  whom  they  had  caught  ir 
house,  “ and  d — n them,’’  he  said,  “I  would  have  done  more  had  1 1 
it  in  my  power;”  these  murderous  deeds  he  had  committed  in 
neighbourhood  of  Wexford,  in  Ireland. 

When  this  horrid  tale  was  ended,  they  said,  this  fellow  deser 
all  the  punishment  that  we  can  inflict  upon  him ; and  at  the  sa 
time  the  countenance  of  every  man  of  them  was,  on  that  occasi 
so  clearly  marked  with  revenge,  that  I thought  Pat’s  case  was  dj 
perate.  He  by  this  time  was  able  to  walk.  All  this  morning  i 
been  lost  to  us,  and  what  was  more  to  be  lamented,  was  the  loss) 
a great  part  of  our  water ; we,  however,  commenced  our  mail 
keeping  near  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  On  this  morning  I lie 
more  murmuring  among  our  men  than  all  of  it  put  together  i|j 
had  been  since  our  landing;  and  the  whole  of  this,  as  I thou; 
was  to  be  attributed  to  Pat’s  conduct.  After  dragging  along  v 
slowly  till  noon,  and  seeing  several  fresh  tracks  on  the  sandJ 
heading  westward  as  before,  we  became  more  and  more  in  feal 
meeting  the  natives,  and  ascended  to  the  top  of  a sand  hill  to  tj 
some  little  refreshment,  and  to  look  out  for  travellers,  the  weali 
being  extremely  hot,  with  a very  light  breeze.  We  ate  a lit 
bread,  and  drank  but  a little  water;  so  great  was  our  thirst,  the  ■ 
petite  craved  but  little  food.  Every  moment  discovered  more  j| 
content ; and,  with  a view  to  get  a return  of  harmony  in  our  lit 
camp,  so  much  disturbed  the  night  before,  I proposed  for  us  al  o 
take  a nap.  It  was  agreed  to  : I then  had  the  handle  of  my  umbil 
la  stuck  into  the  sand,  and  as  it  was  large  it  served  as  a canopy 
the  heads  of  five  or  six  of  us.  The  most  of  them  fell  asleep  in  a i 
minutes.  My  own  anxiety  was  too  great  for  me  even  to  slum! 

I lay  till  2 o’clock,  and  then  awaked  them,  who  appeared  all  told 
been  refreshed. 

The  first  object  with  me  was  to  prepare  and  march  forward ; J 
there  appeared  a kind  of  backwardness  to  making  preparations  i 
our  departure,  such  as  had  been  uncommon  in  like  cases,  and  it  i 
(attended  with  indistinct  murmuring.  I had  not  the  least  conceptic: 
the  cause,  till  a little  hurrying  on  to  his  work  of  one  of  the  leader 
it — the  same  man  who  had  been  spokesman  in  the  affair  of  cut 
away  the  masts,  getting  away  the  long-boat,  &c.  He  looked  me 
in  the  face,  and  with  an  audible  voice  spoke  to  me  these  words  4 
near  as  I can  recollect  : “We  have  been  now  three  days  since  In 
ing  the  wreck  ; we  get  along  very  slow,  and  in  a very  few  days  J 
water  will  all  be  spent,  and  then  it  will  be  too  late  to  go  back  to  i 
wreck  where  there  is  plenty  of  it,  and  we  are  determined  to  get 
further.”  The  reader  can  better  judge  of  my  feelings  at  so  unexp ' 
ed  a change,  than  I can  possibly  describe  them.  We  were  nov 
miles  from  the  ship,  that  is  to  say,  more  than  one  fourth  of  our  j 


paddock’s  narrative. 


43 


e to  St.  Cruez.  In  my  answer  to  that  man,  I reminded  him  of  his 
T.inacy  when  our  first  troubles  happened  to  us  ; of  his  being  the 
cision  of  the  loss  of  our  long-boat ; and  of  the  regrets  he  express- 
difter  we  landed,  at  the  hasty  steps  that  had  been  taken  contrary 
any  counsel ; and  told  him  that  now  he  was  again  opposing  my 
ssrtions  to  relieve  ourselves  from  the  gloomy  situation  we  were 
a ; His  reply  was,  they  were  all  united  with -himself  in  the  same 
piion,  and  they  would  go  no  further. 

luring  this  conversation  we  were  all  standing  together,  h took 
ifcchief  mate  aside  to  consult  with  him  on  this  important  point : he 
filmed  to  me  he  had  suspected  something  of  the  kind  as  far  back 
file  last  evening,  and  had  listened  with  uncommon  attention  to  get. 
ole  knowledge,  if  possible,  of  what  he  feared  was  plotting,  but  had 
■been  successful,  otherwise  he  should  have  communicated  it  to 
■*j  We  then  called  the  second  mate,  who  was  unwilling  to  return 
at,  and  much  preferred  to  go  on.  When  we  had  gone  through 
d;  our  consultation,  in  which  we  were  unanimously  agreed,  we 
Sid  our  companions,  who  were  engaged  in  conversation,  and  I 
■linded  them  of  the  evils  that  had  already  taken  place  by  means 
ifiir  divisions  among  ourselves,  and  of  what  evils,  in  the  course  of 

iits,  would  likely  follow  the  present  decision  ; telling  them  that 
ioubt  remained  of  the  natives  now  having  possession  of  every 
jg  we  had  left  behind  us  ; that  the  whole  drift  of  travelling  was 
ward,  and  if  carried  away  as  captives  in  that  direction,  we 
ild  have  no  hopes  of  relief;  and  I begged  them  to  continue  on 
ird  the  place  where  we  had  hopes.  One  of  them  observed  to 
that  if  he  could  only  find  a living  spring  of  cool  water,  he  should 
billing  to  lay  down  by  it  and  die  there  with  hunger : that  the 
a e of  water  he  had  never  known  before.  Another  said,  in  any 

1r  case  he  would  be  willing  to  follow  me  ; but  as  it  now  was,  he 
d not  consent  to  go  another  step,  and  die  in  the  burning  sands, 
:h  were  almost  insufferable  to  his  feet.  After  spending  a 
le  hour  in  this  most  painful  of  all  debates,  they,  nearly  all  as 
were  agreed  to  go  back  to  the  place  where  there  was  a plenty 
'ater,  and  take  their  chance  of  what  might  follow.  Being  my- 
determined  to  proceed  on,  I expressed  that  determination,  tell- 
them  I would  go,  if  f must  go  even  alone.  My  mates  thought  that 
would  be  imprudent,  and  that  to  divide  ourselves  into  two  com- 
*|es  would  also  be  imprudent,  whether  we  were  to  go  back  or  pro- 
el  forward.  Whereupon  I advised  them  all  to  go  back,  and  in 
a'  the  natives  were  not  come  down,  to  use  every  exertion  to  re- 
N the  boat  to  be  ready  for  sailing ; and  I said  to  them  that  S would 
on  myself,  and  if  I should  find  people  friendly  to  us,  I had  money 
pbgh  to  hire  camels,  and  would  send  for  them.  No  sooner  was 
hi  said  than  the  black  man  Jack  (who  had  been  sitting  silent  be- 
>;)  said  to  me,  “ Master,  if  you  go  on,  I will  go  too.”  That  was 
s ed.  I thought  we  could  travel  to  St.  Cruez  in  five  days  at  fur- 
i t.  Evefy  pack  was  opened  for  making  a division  of  the  water ; 
M^est  all  agreeing  that  we  should  take  a larger  proportion  than 
Wn  selves.  At  that  moment  Sam,  the  other  black  man,  said,  “ If 


44 


PAIiDOCXc’s  NARRATIVE. 


you  go,  Jack,  I too  -will  go.”  That  being  settled,  we  proceeded 
in  making  the  division  of  water ; bread  seeming  scarcely  thought 
so  thirsty  were  we  all.  When  the  bottles  were  all  counted,  thi 
appeared  only  two  bottles  and  a half  to  a man,  which  showed  t 
nearly  half  had  been  destroyed  or  lost. 

Before  the  division  or  apportionment  of  the  water  had  been  g( 
through  with,  Pat  solicited  permission  to  join  me,  which  I then 
fused  to  granthim.  Upon  which  my  mate  took  me  aside,  and  obser 
to  me,  that  if  1 would  not  take  him  along,  he  must  surely  suffer  dea 
that  they  wore  so  exasperated  against  him,  that  he,  the  mate,  co 
not  be  able  to  prevent  their  taking  away  his  life  ; that  he  knew  iv 
had  been  their  standing  with  each  other  for  some  time,  and  was  ; 
willing  to  be  implicated  with  others  in  the  acts  of  violence  that  mi 
be  committed  upon  the  body  of  that  man.  I now  saw  that  poor  i 
would  be  in  a bad  situation  if  I were  to  go  off  and  leave  him;  !|l 
from  that  consideration  alone  was  I induced  to  accept  of  his  com 
ny.  The  reader  may  be  assured  it  was  from  no  liking  to  his  jl 
son,  nor  from  any  thing  amiable  in  his  manners. 

It  was  now  agreed  that  we  should  move  on  eastward.  Being  !i 
small  in  number,  and  all  except  myself  good  travellers,  we  cab 
lated,  by  forced  marches,  to  reach  our  destined  port  in  a short  ti 
The  parting  writh  the  two  little  boys  was  to  me  the  most  distr< 
ing  thing  of  ail ; but  the  good  of  the  whole  seemed  to  require 
We  who  were  eastward-bound  pleaded  hard  to  have  a larger  port! 
of  the  water  than  those  returning  to  the  ship,  who  could  sooner 
a plenty  of  it.  In  this  case,  the  generosity  of  my  fellow-suffere 
ought  not  to  pass  by  unnoticed ; they,  to  a man,  agreed  that 
should  have  each  of  us  as  much  water  as  we  had  started  with  at  fi  ■ 
Accordingly  they  gave  us  twenty  bottles  of  water,  and  a full  sh  e 
of  the  bread ; and,  furthermore,  they  invited  us  t.o  join  them  in  t 
ing  a drink  from  their  own  stock,  and  at  the  conclusion,  sailor-1;  i 
they  proposed  a parting  glass  from  the  general  stock.  Alb  this 
arranged,  and  our  packs  made  up,  we  all  took  of  each  other  arr 
fectionate  leave  ; at  the  same  time  reminding  one  another  of  < 
story  we  had  to  tell  if  falling  in  with  hostile  men  ; — and  thus  < 
separated.  The  expressions  of  every  man  on  this  truly  trying! 
casion  can  never  be  erased  from  my  memory  so  long  as  my  seii 
remain.  Tears  gushed  from  every  eye ; some  of  us  could  haip; 
articulate  the  word  farewell.  We  shook  hands  with  each  other,  t 
all  moved,  in  a silent  procession,  at  the  same  signal,  which  vs 
Go  on. 


FADDOCK5|3  NARRATIVE. 


45 

CHAP.  IV. 

’!  discovery  of  us  four  by  a body  of  wild  Arabs — The  ferociousness  of  their  attack. 
it  fearful  apprehensions  of  being  instantly  murdered — The  manner  of  their  strip- 
;ig  us — Their  arrangements  to  shoot  us — A description  of  their  persons — Their 
■slodious  voices — The  extreme  sufferings  they  made  us  endure  in  our  travel — The 
pture  of  six  of  the  other  ten — We  are  hurried  back  to  the  wreck,  where  we  tind 
large  assemblage  of  the  natives — The  capture  of  the  remaining  four  of  our  men. — 
;aving  these  four  at  the  wreck,  they  travel  off  with  the  remaining  ten — The  ex- 
maty  of  our  hunger  and  thirst,  the  latter  being  the  most  intolerable — In  our  e» 
;me  hunger  and  thirst,  we  feed  deliciously  on  the  raw  moist  guts  of  an  animal. 

Ve  parted  at  about  5 o’clock,  and  among  my  little  company  not  a 
vd  was  uttered  for  more  than  half  an  hour.  I took  the  lead,  as  I 
i;  been  used  to  do,  and  we  walked  about  two  miles,  when  we  stopt 
mrrange  some  of  our  luggage,  which  was  pretty  bulky,  three  ear- 
wig the  burthen  which  belonged  to  four  ; for  my  comrades  had 
w,  as  before,  taken  my  share  of  the  common  burthen  of  choice— 
pact,  had  insisted  on  doing  it,  by  saying  they  could  walk  as  fast 
vi  such  incumbrance  as  I could  without  it.  At  that  sitting  we 
ueed  to  walk  mostly  in  the  night,  which  was  cool,  and  to  lay  by 
n he  heat  of  the  day  : there  was  now  an  increase  of  the  moon,  that 
atee  -light  till  nearly  midnight.  As  soon  as  every  thing  was  adjust- 
s we  marched  on  again,  and  walked  fast ; in  the  mean  time  cau- 
sing each  other  to  keep  a good  look  out,  and  the  moment  any 
man  being  appeared  to  our  view,  to  hide  ourselves  under  the  sand 
is,  which  were  very  convenient  for  that  purpose.  The  sand  drifts 
tre  now  more  common,  but  not  so  difficult  to  cross  as  they  had 

0 n,  and,  for  that  reason,  the  travelling  not  so  tedious.  The  coun- 
ir,  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea,  was  still  flat.  As  it  then  appear- 
;<to  us,  the  chain  of  mountains  which  we  saw  a long  way  ahead, 
cninated  at  the  sea. 

Is  there  were  now  but  four  of  us  together,  we  could  all  join  in 
Hiversation,  which  I promoted,  in  order  to  employ  our  minds  upon 
fleets  far  distant  from  the  deserts  of  Arabia.  About  half  past  six  I 
It/  a movement  ahead,  and  so  sudden  was  my  stop,  that  the  man 

1 ;t  behind  me,  not  observing  it,  was  near  throwing  me  down.  In 
i loment  we  were  all  huddled  together.  I said  to  them,  Iiideyour- 
iues  ; men  ahead  ! As  we  were  veering  off  from  the  foot  path,  those 
a ;ad  saw  us,  and  stopt ; we  were  then  about  a quarter,  of  a mile 
un  each  other.  With  my  glass  I saw  them  looking  steadfastly  at 
u Their  number  appeared  to  us  greater  than  it  really  was,  and 
awe  thought  they  were  looking  at  us  to  ascertain  our  number,  we 
p.ced  ourselves  in  a situation  to  be  counted  by  them.  To  describe 
tl  condition  our  bodies  were  then  in  would  not  be  difficult,  but  to 
g e a description  of  even  the  smallest  part  of  the  feelings  of  our 
mds,  would  be  far  beyond  my  power.  We  stood  in  that  hopeless 
station  for  more  than  ten  minutes,  not  knowing  nor  thinking  what 
sps  to  take.  Jack  said  to  me,  “ Master,  let  us  run.”  I told  him 
t stand  still,  for  running  would  be  useless,  and  I believed  our  ene- 
mies only  wanted  to  know  our  strength  in  order  to  approach  us.  If 


46 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


you  alter  your  position,  said  I,  that  may  lead  to  our  ruin  ; but  if 
will  stand  firm,  I will  go  to  them  alone  and  know  our  fate.  Tt 
were  all  agreed  to  do  as  I had  bidden  them.  When  I had  advam 
only  a few  paces,  one  of  them  called  out,  “ If  they  kill  you,  wl 
shall  we  do?”  I only  replied,  be  quiet. 

I now  walked  moderately  towards  these  barbarians,  with  my  u 
brella  under  one  arm,  and  the  spy-glass  in  my  hand.  My  read 
will  judge  what  my  feelings  were  at  that  awful  moment.  The  nr 
or  1 approached  them,  the  more  frightful  they  appeared,  but  I kn 
it  could  ans'wer  me  no  good  purpose  to  stop.  When  1 was  with! 
hundred  yards  of  them,  they  all,  as  with  one  motion,  dropped  th 
packs,  hove  off  their  outer  garments,  and  made  towards  me  i 
swift  run.  As  soon  as  they  had  come  within  a few  yards,  I held  i 
my  right  hand  in  token  of  friendship.  Of  that  they  took  no  noti 
but  passed  by  me  as  swift  as  it  could  be  possible  for  men  to  r 
My  poor  shipmates  stood  motionless  ; and  when  the  monsters  w 
come  near  enough  to  grasp  them,  their  attack  began.  While  I v 
walking  towards  them,  in  a quick  pace,  I perceived  my  three  cc 
panions  were  down  on  the  ground,  and  the  ferocious  barbarians 
work  upon  them  with  their  daggers,  which  glittered  in  the  sun. 
They  wrere  passing  by  me  1 saw  a dagger,  or  long  knife,  hung 
each  of  their  necks.  While  beholding  the  horrid  sight  of  their 
tack,  I could  think  of  nothing  else  than  that  they  were  plunging  th 
daggers  to  the  hearts  of  my  poor  companions,  w'hose  groans  i 
cries  I distinctly  heard.  When  1 was  come  within  thirty  yard! 
stopt,  and  looked  at  them,  with  no  other  expectation  but  that  my  o 
turn  would  come  next,  after  finishing  the  diabolical  work  they  w 
then  about.  In  that  deplorable  situation  I remained  for  near  a qu 
ter  of  an-  hour,  when,  to  my  great  surprise,  they  all  arose  on  til 
feet ; my  men  with  their  packs  off,  and  half  naked.  1 then  cal  I 
to  my  men,  and  asked  them  if  they  were  wounded  ; they  answei) 
no.  Upon  which  I w:as  convinced  their  daggers  were  made  use! 
in  cutting  away  the  straps  that  secured  their  knapsacks,  which  tl| 
did  not  know  a quicker  way  to  come  at.  i, 

Before  they  had  paid  any  attention  to  me  they  ripped  open  l‘ 
packs,  each  of  them  striving  to  have  the  greatest  share  in  the  sp<j 
Having  accomplished  this,  one  of  them  came  within  a few  yards! 
myself,  and  stopt,  and  afte reviewing  me  very  attentively,  he  wall 
partly  round  to  get  a side  view.  I could  not  perceive  his  moths 
for  keeping  that  distance,  as  I had  shown  no  signs  of  an  intention  ) 
defend  myself.  We  were  both  in  those  attitudes  respecting  eaf 
other,  for  a few  minutes,  and  till  one  or  two  more  of  those  fright! 
beings  were  making  towards  me  with  the  like  caution.  Upon  t.t 
he  sprung  at  me,  tiger-like  ; my  watch  chain,  which  was  of  gc , 
exciting  his  first  attention.  No  sooner  had  he  got  hold  of  that  tlj: 
the  others,  seven  in  all,  with  the  utmost  fury  seized  hold  of  S 
watch,  and  partly  turned  the  fob  inside  out ; when  one  of  them,  w 
the  dagger  in  his  right  hand,  cut  oft’  the  fob,  and,  through  his  grl 
haste,  he,  with  the  same  stroke,  cut  my  pantaloons.  In  a mom  2 
from  this  I was  the  undermost  5 the  whole  seven  being  upon  i:, 


47 


paddock’s  narrative. 

au  with  his  dagger  drawn.  The  gold  they  soon  found,  and  took 
,,ocket  and  all.  Being  unacquainted  with  our  dress,  it  took  them 
irer,  by  ten  times,  to  obtain  the  plunder  found  on  me,  than  1 
li  ild  have  been  in  giving  it  up  : add  to  this,  they  tore  and  cut  my 
Idles  badly.  All  this  time  the  spy-glass  and  umbrella  lay  by  me 
nhe  spot  where  I had  dropt  them  at  the  beginning  of  their  attack, 
d r this  mauling  was  gone  through  with,  they  let  me  up  again,  when 
m of  them  examined  the  spy-glass,  and  another  the  umbrella; 
iking,  I have  no  doubt,  that  this  glass,  which  probably  was  the 
I thing  of  the  kind  they  had  ever  seen,  was  a defensive  weapon, 
m that  made  them  so  cautious  about  attacking  me.  They  asked 
(Snany  questions,  which  we  did  not  understand,  repeating  over 
■;ral  times  the  same  words,  particularly  the  words  Sapina,  Rais, 
^ These  words  we  soon  after  found  out  the  meaning  of.  Their 
ere,  and  ferocious  look,  to  say  nothing  of  their  behaviour,  were 
■avage,  and  even  exceeded  in  savageness,  any  thing  that  I ever 
■e  read  in  narratives  of  voyages. 

'he  business  in  hand  being  finished,  they  went  back  to  the  place 
were  at  when  we  were  first  seen  by  them  ; and  after  taking  up 
■r  guns,  and  what  luggage  they  had,  they  came  again  to  us,  who 
se  been  left  by  them  to  bemoan  our  condition.  No  sooner  had 
hr  returned,  than  they  faced  eastward,  fell  upon  their  knees,  and 
oc  up  sand  in  their  hands  as  if  it  were  water,  and  washed  them- 
fies  with  it,  hands,  arms,  face,  neck,  &zc.  This  done,  they  fell 
intrate,  with  their  faces  to  the  ground,  from  thence  rose  upon  their 
4ries,  and  said  over  many  words,  which,  from  their  looks  and  ges- 
■ s,  we  took  to  be  their  prayers.  That  worship,  if  worship  it  may 
■called,  continued  nearly  half  an  hour : all  which  time  they  were 
O rnately  up  and  down,  from  kneeling,  to  bowing  their  faces  down 
obe  ground.  When  this  was  over,  they  took  each  his  gun,  and 
■down  about  twenty  paces  from  us,  where  they  re-primed  their 
*s,  and  rubbed  the  hammers  and  flints.  What  could  be  our  feel- 
ms,  when,  after  that  was  over,  they  came  up  to  us,  and  made  us 
si  el  down,  with  our  faces  towards  them  ! instantaneous  death  we 
bight  would  follow.  Sam  called  out,  “ W e are  to  be  shot !”  and 
■Swept  aloud.  Before  this  w~e  had  all  been  silent.  As  to  myself, 
~ ought  that,  from  every  appearance,  the  hour  had  come  for  our 
ids  to  take  their  flight  to  the  invisible -world  ; and  I prayed  most 
dently  to  our  blessed  Redeemer  for  our  souls’  salvation.  At  that 
nnent  there  appeared  before  my  eyes  a sign,  which  I forbear  to 
ne,  lest  it  should  occasion  some  unpleasant  comments  from  the 
iiredulous.  However,  the  effect  of  it  was,  that  my  fears  of  death 
a antly  subsided. 

Rter  that  dreadful  trial  Twas  over,  my  burning  thirst  seemed  more 
.olerable  than  before,  and  as  the  bottles  of  water  that  had  been 
down  out  of  our  knapsacks  were  then  lying  on  the  ground,  I took 
* one  of  them,  drew  the  cork,  and  drank  it  dry  ; and  after  that,  my 
Wst  being  not  yet  quenched,  I took'  up  another,  and  had  already 
:i  nk  two  thirds  of  it,  when  one  of  those  savage  men  ran  to  me,  and 
ibck  the  bottle  from  my  mouth,  and  it  rolled  so  far  away,  that  l 


43 


paddock’s  narrative. 


could  not  reach  it  again.  During  this  sitting  of  theirs,  they  appe 
ed  to  be  consulting  together  as  to  what  they  should  do  with  us. 
length,  about  sunset,  they  came  to  us,  and  asked  us  many  questic 
wanting,  as  far  as  we  could  understand  them,  to  know  the  numbei 
us.  By  making  marks  on  the  ground,  we  informed  them  that  i 
number  amounted  to  ten  ; not  meaning  for  them  to  include  oursel 
in  that  number.  They  wished  to  know  if  the  rest  of  our  crew  1 
guns ; and,  by  the  shake  of  the  head,  we  answered,  they  had  r 
Their  next  inquiry  was  of  the  place  where  lay  our  ship,  which  tl 
called  Saffina,  or  at  least  we  understood  it  so.  We  pointed  wc 
ward  ; and  then  pointing  to  me,  they  asked  me  if  I were  rais. 
rice,  which  I understood  to  mean  captain  or  master.  As  well  i 
could  make  myself  understood,  I answered  their  question  in  the 
firmative.  Finally,  they  inquired  for  money,  and  we  endeavon 
to  make  them  believe  there  was  none  at  the  ship.  When  they  1 
gathered  from  us  all  this  information,  they  talked  with  one  anothc 
few  minutes,  and  then,  as  fast  as  they  could,  they  gathered  all  I 
luggage  together  except  the  water,  made  it  up  in  the  best  man  j 
the  time  would  admit  of,  loaded  it  into  our  hackled  knapsacks,  ij) 
gave  each  of  us  a load.  It  was  now  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  aild  j 
were,  as  we  supposed,  from  50  to  60  miles  from  the  ship  when  tijll 
gave  the  word  Bomar,  which  signifies  go  on. 

Before  I proceed  further,  I will  describe,  as  well  as  I can,  till 
monsters.  One  of  them  was  an  old  man,  whose  head  had  been  1;  • 
]y  shaven,  the  hair  of  it  half  an  inch  long,  and  white,  without  jjf 
mixture  of  black  ; his  beard  nearly  five  inches  in  length,  and  white  i 
height  he  was  about  five  feet  ten  or  eleven  inches,  as  straight  as 
American  Indian,  well  made  for  a spare  man,  his  cheek  bones  hi 
nose  sharp,  eyes  small  and  bright,  of  the  colour  of  dark  copper! 
about  three-fourths  black  : he  seemed  the  head  of  the  clan,  foi 
had  more  to  say  than  any  of  the  others.  Another  one  was  a bft 
apparently  of  the  age  of  seventeen  or  eighteen,  in  height  about  J} 
feet  eleven,  of  the  colour  of  the  old  man,  and  with  features  so  ml 
like  his,  that  I concluded  he  was  his  son.  The  other  five  wjj 
nearly  of  the  same  size  and  colour,  which  was  that  of  copper; 
light,  spare  men,  about  five  feet  eight  inches,  their  hair  bla| 
straight,  and  long,  standing  out  just  as  it  grew,  never  combed, 
looking  as  frightfully  as  holy  writ  represents  the  witch  of  Fnc 1 
Their  dress  consisted  of  what  was  once  a shirt,  without  sleevesi 
collar,  and  now  in  rags,  over  which  they  wore  a garment  cable  3 
slaick,  or  echaick,  made  of  wool,  about  one  yard  and  a quarter  wn 
and  four  yards  long.  This  garment  is  wrapped  round  the  body,  ' 
ginning  low  down  with  one  corner,  and  continuing  upward,  leav| 
one  end  to  be  thrown  over  the  shoulder. 

With  the  word  Bomar  there  came  a blow,  and  a push  for  wet 
They  endeavoured  to  get  us  on  a run,  and  for  that  purpose  beatl 
cruelly ; it  was  cruel  indeed  to  force  us  on  faster  than  a moderji 
walk,  extremely  fatigued  as  we  were  when  we  started.  j 
companions,  to  save  me  from  those  cruel  beatings,  managed  it  s<[: 
to  fall  into  the  rear  in  order  to  get  me  ahead,  and  so  take  the  bin 


paddock’s  narrative. 

laselves  ; but  the  Arabs  discovering  that  management,  put  a stop 
> . Thus  driven  on,  we  continued  to  travel,  as  I should  judge, 
l!0or  II  o’clock,  when,  through  extreme  fatigue,  I fell  on  my 
k in  the  sand,  and  no  Sooner  did  my  companions  see  it,  than  they 
Talso ; upon  which  our  beating  was  increased  to  such  a degree 
1 thought  we  should  never  rise  more.  At  last  they  desisted  ; 
a striking  up  a light,  they,  with  some  little  dry  brush,  or  weeds, 
it  had  once  grown  there,  made  a little  fire  for  light  to  examine  the 
h;der  by.  Every  one  of  them  appeared  dissatisfied  with  his  own 
■e  of  the  plunder,  and  demanded  for  himself  a part  of  what  his 
rffier  thief  had  got.  Their  tongues,  on  that  occasion,  run  like 
ti  clacks ; while  at  the  same  time  our  groans  were  incessant,  and 
Mb  was  not  one  of  us  but  would  have  chosen  rather  to  be  shot, 
k to  be  forced  to  stir  another  step.  In  this  case  we  had  lain  for 
out  an  hour,  when  came  the  reiterated  word,  Bomar,  Bomar,  and 
tog  with  it  a blow,  and  their  threats  and  curses.  My  companions 
v asked  me  what  they  should  do.  I told  them  to  lay  still.  At 
f instant  one  had  his  gun  pointed  at  me,  and  another  pointed  one 
'at ; they  both  threatening  to  fire  if  we  did  not  get  up ; for 
icgh  we  did  not  understand  their  language,  we  could  pretty  well 
jteive  the  meaning  of  what  they  said  to  us  then.  At  last,  after 
Kits  and  blows,  they  got  Pat  up,  and  started  him  on  ; and  then  the 
•sof  us,  with  much  difficulty,  got  upon  our  feet.  After  this,  it 
»iied  that  they  meant  to  make  up  for  lost  time  ; the  word  Bomar 
Softener  repeated,  followed,  of  course,  with  stripes.  As  that  was 
ie:irst  time  1 had  ever  carried  a pack,  and  as  mine  was  heavier 
a any  of  the  rest,  the  endurance  of  the  toil  came  harder  perhaps 
e than  to  my  companions.  Jack  perceived  it,  and  without  my 
k complaining  of  the  burden  I was  compelled  to  bear,  he,  having 
Tightest  one,  and  being  much  the  stoutest  man,  proposed  to  me 
awe  should  exchange  packs.  Accordingly  we  stopt  for  that 
•nose;  but  our  drivers  were  as  much  bent  against  that  arrange- 
»e  as  we  were  for  it.  Jack  told  them,  by  signs,  that  he  was  the 

0 est  man,  but  they  insisted  that  we  should  go  on  as  we  were  ; and 
bb  that  litigation  was  at  the  highest,  we  both  dropped  our  packs, 
K;he  exchange  was  made  by  us,  but  not  without  our  smarting  un- 
The  lash. 

1 ter  that  exchange  was  made,  we  got  along  much  easier,  although 
etarbarians  did  in  no  degree  relax  of  their  severe  and  cruel  treat- 
e of  us.  We  continued  to  travel  on  as  fast  as  our  feeble  limbs 
■d  carry  us,  until  about  3 in  the  morning,  when,  borne  down  with 
iriatigue,  and  with  various  sufferings,  we  fell  again  on  the  sand. 
Ripectedly  to  ourselves,  we  were  not  beaten  as  before,  but  were 
f itted  to  lie  there  an  hour  undisturbed  ; after  which  we  were 
rd  up  again,  and  pushed  on.  We  new,  some  of  us,  began  to 
i;  that  we  had  passed  by  those  of  our  crew  that  had  returned  for 
chip  ; but,  as  we  had  kept  on  the  plainest  track,  or  foot  path,  i 
wf  the  opinion  myself,  that  in  the  former  part  of  the  night  we 
e,d  come  up  with  them,  either  travelling  or  asleep  ; and  in  which - 
ejease  we  might  happen  to  find  them,  1 had  no  doubt  that  host! 


l-ADDbCK5?  NARRATIVE* 


qO 

lities  would  commence.  Our  whole  number,  if  the  two  paTtifes  u 
ed,  would  have  been  double  the  number  of  the  Arabs  ; yet  t 
expertness,  and  the  circumstance  of  their  being  armed,  and  < 
selves  unarmed,  were  considerations  which  rendered  it  prob; 
that  they  would  have  killed  us  all,  if  resistance  had  been  made 
any  of  us  ; and  this  1 had  reason  to  fear,  knowing,  as  I did,  the  r 
luteness  of  my  crew. 

We  proceeded  on  as  fast  as  we  could  go,  and,  at  dawn  of  da] 
the  9th,  we  judged,  from  the  appearance  of  the  mountains,  thai 
were  not  many  miles  from  the  cave  where  we  had  slept  the  first  ni 
Having  had  no  water  during  this  whole  night  past,  our  thirst  was 
very  severe,  and  we  begged  hard  for  water,  showing  the  Arabs 
parched  tongues,  and  uttering  our  bitter  complaints  ; they  werr 
duced  at  last  to  give  each  of  us  about  half  a pint,  from  a skin 
had,  in  which  was  about  three  quarts  of  Very  bad  water,  but  t 
nothing  could  have  tasted  better.  The  mode  of  watering  us  w: 
untie  the  skin  bag,  each  hold  his  moutli  tight  to  the  hole,  which 
about  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  an  Arab  held  up  the  skin,  an 
as  much  flow  through  the  passage  as  he  thought  proper ; and  x 
we  had  drank  he  took  the  skin  away.  The  skin  appeared  to 
fresh  one  from  a kid ; the  smell  showed  it  to  have  been  taker 
within  a few  days ; the  fleshy  side  was  as  green  as  putrid  me 
the  summer. 

After  that  drink,  they  pushed  us  on  again  with  all  speed.  At  a 
8 o’clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  flat  which  we  had  crossed  oi 
sixth  ; and  no  sooner  had  we,  from  the  top  of  a sand  drift,  con 
full  view  of  it,  than  the  Arabs  cried  out  aloud,  uttering  certain  w 
which  we  did  not  understand,  and  they  ran  off  in  full  speed,  lea' 
only  two  of  their  number  with  us.  We  soon  found  out  their  obj 
six  of  our  men  being  in  sight  on  the  plain  about  two  miles  oil’.  1 
were  goaded  on  by  the  two  men  who  had  us  in  their  charge.} 
our  thirst  was  so  burning  that  we  waddled  along  as  fast  as  we  o[ 
in  hopes  of  getting  some  water  from  our  men.  Those  Arabs 
within  half  a mile  of  our  men  before  they  were  seen  by  them  ; 
ran  at  least  five  times  as  fast  as  we  could  get  along.  The  mo 
our  men  saw  them  they  stopt,  expecting,  from  a view  of  their 
cious  looks,  and  of  the  guns  in*  their  hands,  that  their  ow  n time 
short ; and  having  yet  some  water  left,  they  drank  every  drop i 
before  the  Arabs  got  hold  of  them.  In  an  instant  they  were  all  <j 
upon  the  ground,  and  thought  themselves  destined  to  slaughter;! 
as  myself  and  my  little  company  had  thought  of  ourselves,  whet 
were  in  the  like  circumstances.  By  the  time  they  were  stripp 
their  treasure,  and  had  got  up,  we  were  near  them,  when  there  i 
with  them,  a general  rejoicing ; their  seeing  us  alive  giving 
hopes.  As  soon  as  we  could  be  heard,  we  cried  out  for  water} 
being  answered  there  is  none,  we  dropped  down,  not  thinking  it,< 
sible  for  us  to  live.  We  lay  groaning,  and  crying  out  for  wateij 
at  the  same  time  our  limbs  were  in  excruciating  pain  from  fat  i 
the  merciless  barbarians  then  gave  us  what  remained  in  the  i 
which  was  not  enough  to  wTet  our  throats. 


iPA5>DQCK?S  KARRAflV'Ea  OT 

..  last  they  got  us  all  ten  together,  which  they  (the  Arabs)  sup- 
®jd,  from  what  I had  told  them  the  day  before,  was  our  whole 
liber.  It  appeared  from  the  story  of  my  mates,  that,  upon  part- 
|vith  us,  they  had  calculated  to  walk  nearly  all  the  night;  that 
u of  the  men  would  not  agree  to  that,  as  they  had  rather  sleep, 
^therefore  lay  down  for  that  purpose.  The  mates  thought,  that 
cgh  we  did  not  see  or  hear  each  other,  yet  we  must  have  been 
g near  those  four  men  about  midnight. 

tur  captors  soon  made  a kind  of  division  of  their  newly  acquired 
jierty,  and  when  the  two  that  were  left  to  drive  us  up  claimed 
share,  there  seemed  a war  of  words  before  the  matter  was  set- 
From  what  I could  learn,  those  two  got  but  a small  share, 
y then  began  a division  of  our  persons,  which  appeared  diffr? 
; if  there  had  been  only  seven  of  us  in  number,  it  would  have 
li  easy  to  have  divided  us  between  them,  as  there  tvould  have 
ii  one  to  each.  They  sorted  us  and  appraised  us  several  times 
Ire  the  thing  was  settled.  We  gave  them  our  names,  which,  ex- 
i Jack,  they  made  a bad  hand  at  pronouncing.  The  name  they 
d me  by  was  Ria,  meaning  captain ; that  word  the  Moors  pro- 
ice  Rais.  How  we  were  appraised  we  could  not  tell,  but  it  so 
)ened  that  Jack  and  myself  fell  to  the  worst  fellow  amongst  them 
i Three  were  put  to  the  old  man  and  his  son,  and  that  left  a re- 
ader of  one  to  each  of  the  others. 

his  matter  being  settled,  the  word  Bomar  sounded  in  our  ears, 
thrill  as  the  sound  of  a fine  voiced  bird  ; such  melodious  voices  I 
3 :r  heard  before  nor  since.  I don’t  mean  to  be  understood  that 
»•  voices  were  charming  as  respected  ourselves.  We  cried  for 
fcr,  they  forced  us  up  ; we  pointed  to  the  ship,  in  hopes  they 
c Id  go  there,  and  let  us  get  along  as  fast  as  we  could.  They 
dd  not  leave  us,  but  marched  us  on  with  them.  When  we  were 
i in  6 or  8 miles  of  the  ship,  wre  all  laid  down,  unable  to  go  ano- 

!lw  step,  worn  down  as  we  were  with  fatigue  ; and  we  repeatedly 
ured  them  our  parched  tongues.  Upon  finding  that  we  either 
3 d not  go,  or  would  not  proceed  on,  and  that  all  their  threats  wrere 
’ ^ailing,  a man  was  dispatched  for  water.  To  what  place  he  went 
lever  knew,  but,  in  an  hour’s  time  he  returned,  with  some  water 
was  brackish  and  black.  Previously  to  his  return,  we  saw  a 
3 el,  with  a small  boy  on  his  back,  and  a woman  following  after  on 
x . They  were  close  upon  us  before  either  of  the  parties,  disco- 
fe:d  the  other;  for  there  were  large  sand  banks  in  their  way  from 
ii  ship  to  us,  and  they  coming  between  those  heavy  banks,  were 
c discovered.  We  saw  on  the  camel  one  of  our  sails,  of  which, 
n of  every  thing  else,  the  Arabs  that  were  with  us,  immediately 
K:  possession.  They  unloaded  the  camel,  and  began  their  search. 

3 ie  mean  while  the  woman  defended  herself  with  her  uncommon- 
rard  scolding,  the  meaning  of  which  we  could  well  conjecture. 
J;>n  the  exposure  of  her  load,  we  saw  some  onions,  which  we  got 
d of,  and  ate  with  great  avidity,  and  also  a few  potatoes.  The 
nbs  let  us  have  all  the  potatoes,  with  which  they  seemed  unac- 
uited,  as  they  viewed  them  with  attention,  and  smelt  of  them, 


52 


Paddock’s  NARRATIVE* 


They  were,  however,  far  more  inviting  to  us  than  the  onions ; p; 
ticularly  when  we  had  a drink  of  that  brackish  water  aforementiom 
the  raw  potatoes  served  to  continue  the  moisture  on  ou?  tongu 
As  soon  as  the  examination  of  this  load  was  gone  through  with,  c 
of  the  men  took  the  woman  aside  and  had  a long  talk  with  her,  a 
then,  as  we  supposed,  a treaty  was  made  ; as  they  then  joined  us,  a 
loaded  the  camel  with  the  sail,  which  was  part  of  the  foresail,  a 
the  same  that  was  left  on  shore  by  us  for  a tent,  and  with  somep 
ces  of  iron,  and  some  tools  which  we  had  landed  for  repairing  I 
boat. 

It  was  now  about  noon ; the  sun  beat  down  with  such  extre 
heat  that  the  sand  was  almost  insufferable.  We  marched  on,  e 
saw  nothing  till  we  were  on  the  hill,  within  fifty  rods  of  the  ship, 
we  were  descending  the  hill,  we  were  met  by  a company  consist 
of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men,  women,  and  children.  Jt  \ 
now  about  2 o’clock,  when  a quarrel  arose  between  the  two  parti 
and,  as  far  as  we  could  understand  it,  (what  we  afterwards  found 
be  the  fact,)  those  at  the  ship  claimed  us  as  their  property,  all 
ing,  that  having  possession  of  the  ship,  every  thing  appertaining 
her  was  theirs.  On  the  other  hand,  the  party  having  possessioi 
oui’selves,  claimed  not  only  every  thing  appertaining  to  us,  but 
ship  also,  by  the  right  of  having  us  in  their  possession.  They  qt; 
relied  hard,  and  we  expected  that  we  ourselves  should  fall  as  vict 
to  their  furious  contention.  Some  blood  was  shed  on  that  occasi 
but  not  much.  During  all  this  time  we  were  sitting  down  on 
sand,  near  the  place  where  our  tent  was  left.  Every  thing  was  tai 
away  except  our  hog,  which  lay  dead,  and  blasted,  and  noisomt 
the  smell,  shot  no  doubt  by  the  Arabs  the  very  day  we  left  the  wre 
as  from  the  putridity  of  its  carcass,  and  from  various  other  circi 
stances,  it  appeared  that  they  had  been  there  all  that  time.  1 
yawl  lay  on  the  rocks,  with  her  oars  in  her,  just  as  she  was  left;  a 
foresail  was  cut  off  as  high  up  as  a man  could  reach,  if  standing 
the  bellfry.  They  must  have  passed  off  to  her  by  swimming. 

After  sitting  as  close  together  as  we  could  for  two  hours  or  m( 
under  the  keeping  of  the  old  man  and  his  son,  and  perceiving  noth 
done  by  the  natives  but  quarrelling  about  ourselves  and  the  wrejj 
I rose  up  to  look  round  if  I could  see  whether  they  had  found  w| 
we  buried,  and  perceived  the  covering  stone  to  lie  exactly  as  I 
left  it.  For  this  offence,  the  one  that  1 took  to  be  my  master,  ran  Jji 
and  gave  me  a hard  stroke  on  the  back  part  of  my  neck,  and  saijt 
me  Umbar , which  means  sit  down,  or  lie  down.  At  about  5 o’cll 
the  thing  was  settled  between  the  contending  parties.  As  fa  :j;l 
we  could  learn,  it  was  agreed  upon,  that  those  having  possession 
us,  should  march  off  with  us,  and  take  nothing  else  with  them,  '< 
that  those  remaining  there  should  keep  what  they  had  got.  T i 
controversy  being  done  with,  while  two  of  them  were  left  to  keejjt 
together,  the  other  five  of  the  gang  went  about  a hundred  yards  i i 
us,  fell  to  work  under  the  edge  of  the  bank,  and  dug  out  an  old  v 
and  in  less  than  one  hour  found  water.  Jt  had  been  partly  sto 
up,  but  was  now  completely  filled  with  sand,  leaving  no  appeara  i 


paddock’s  narrative. 


53 


sire  could  see,  of  its  having  ever  beer,  a place  where  water  could  be 
nd.  They  filled  the  skin  with  water,  such  as  it  was,  very  brack- 
’d and  while  this  was  doing  our  four  poor  fellow-sufferers  made 
iir  appearance  on  the  hill.  They  looked  down  with  astonish- 
Kjt,  having  had  no  knowledge  of  our  bondage,  nor  of  the  Arabs 
tog  at  that  place.  One  of  the  Arabs  got  sight  of  them,  and  gave 
j:ll.  Upwards  of  fifty  of  those  ruffians  ran  up  the  hill,  and  took 
i»a  down,  and  stripped  them  of  their  luggage.  Our  masters,  who 
«e  filling  water,  ran  also,  but  were  too  late.  Those  four  were 
knitted  to  talk  with  us  while  we  staid,  which  was  about  half  an 
dr.  Poor  fellows ! they  wept  bitterly  upon  being  told  that  we 
/<e  to  depart  and  leave  them,  with  but  little  hopes  of  our  ever  see- 
vone  another  again  in  this  world  of  trouble.  At  the  sound  of  the 
?<d  Bomar,  we  took  of  one  another  an  affectionate  leave,  promis-  . 
ai that  whoever  of  us  should  happen  to  be  redeemed  from  our  bon- 
ke,  he,  or  they,  would  endeavour  to  obtain  the  redemption  of  the 
e.  Not  one  of  us,  while  continuing  to  breathe  the  breath  of  life, 
f yet  have  forgotten,  or  will  ever  forget,  that  trying  moment.  Poor 
k was  reminded,  before  we  parted,  of  his  having  been  the  cause  of 
n distress.  He  was  prudent  enough  to  make  no  reply, 
it  sunset  the  remaining  ten  of  us,  along  with  the  seven  Arabs,  as- 
*ded  the  hill  again,  and  for  the  last  time ; but  whither  or  where 

Iig,  that  was  our  first  and  deepest  concern.  When  departing  from 
hill,  instead  of  turning  east,  we  were  conducted,  to  our  great 
■tification,  in  a S.  W.  course.  It  was  soon  dark,  and  we  coati- 
d in  that  course  for  about  four  miles,  and  then  were  ordered 
ra.  It  had  now  become  chilly,  and,  deprived  as  we  were  of  our 
tikets,  we  suffered  with  cold  extremely.  But  much  greater  than 
3t  bodily  sufferings,  were  the  sufferings  of  our  anxious  minds, 
wile  our  thoughts  were  fixed  on  the  arrangement  that  then  ensued. 
ft:'  the  Arabs  birthed  us  in  the  centre,  and  posted  themselves  around 
a their  muskets  pointed  directly  toward  us,  the  breech  on  their 
|i:es,  and  the  muzzle  on  the  sand,  ready  to  fire  at  any  moment. 

2er  this  they  despatched  oft’  one  of  their  men,  who  took  to  the 
stward,  on  the  run.  Within  about  an  hour  he  returned,  and  ano- 
fir  along  with  him,  who  had  a camel.  On  the  camel  they  loaded 
ai  the  luggage,  gave  out  the  word  Bomar,  pointed  eastward,  and 
ced  out,  Swearah.  The  word  Bomar  was  very  familiar  to  our 
els ; the  word  Swearah  was  new  to  us.  They  turned  the  camel 
ntward,  which  to  us  was  a matter  of  great  joy,  as  that  was  the 
f ly  direction  from  which  we  could  derive  any  hopes  of  relief, 
hat  sudden  hope,  or  rather  shadow  of  hope,  infused  in  us  such  a 
gneral  joy,  that  every  one  seemed  to  show  some  considerable  de- 
gie  of  animation  ; whereas  we  had  been  utterly  dejected  before. 

We  continued  our  journey  all  that  night.  Before  morning  we 
find  ourselves  on  the  great  plain  afore  described,  as  thought  by 
i to  have  been  once  the  bed  of  the  sea.  At  daylight  on  the  10th 
V discovered  the  cave  where  we  had  slept  the  first  night  after  our 
living  the  wreck.  Before  daylight  our  new  companion  had  started 
on  a run  towards  the  mountains.  The  sun  was  about  an  horn- 


54 


paddock's  narrative. 


high  when  we  arrived  at  the  cave ; we  looked  into  it,  and  retire  Jt 
little  north  of  it,  and  made  a halt  in  a valley  formed  by  two  s;; 
drifts.  We  were  extremely  tired,  having  walked  all  the  night  w[ 
out  sleep  or  rest.  The  sun  having  now  been  up  for  some  consit1. 
able  time,  and  very  hot,  we  begged  earnestly  for  water;  when  th| 
inhuman  monsters  would  call  us  fonta,  (bad) — and  would  say,  v 
an  angry  grin  shrub  mackan,  which  we  understood  to  be  water  no\ 
The  small  skin  we  knew  was  full  when  we  started  from  the  wre 
and  we  had  seen  them  drink  of  it  only  once  afterwards  ; neverthe’  j 
our  begging  was  of  no  avail.  About  10  o’clock  the  Arab  that  1 
left  us  joined  us  again,  bringing  with  him  about  half  a bushel  fl 
sweet  berries,  and  a brute  animal,  such  as  we  could  not  name,  t 
was  about  the  size  of  a half-grown  goat. ; the  head,  skin,  and  le , 
they  took  off  immediately ; after  which  they  opened  their  gai 
quartered  it,  laid  it  on  the  sand,  covered  it  over  with  hot  sand, : 1 
made  a lire  upon  it  with  some  dry  sticks.  They  reached  the  guts,  1 1 
as  they  were,  for  us  to  eat.  We  were  very  hungry,  but  did  notsui 
so  much  from  hunger  as  from  thirst.  This  food  beingwarm  and  mb', 
we  chewed  the  guts,  after  sucking  off  the  fat;  little  thinking  it  wa 
be  our  last  meal  for  five  days.  The  meat  was  soon  cooked,  and  jj 
ing  in  expectation  of  getting  a share  of  it,  we  privately  buried  j 
remaining  part  of  the  guts  in  the  sand.  We  begged  earnestly 
water,  but  they  took  no  notice  of  it.  After  they  had  devoured  tli 
meal  of  meat  and  sand  mixed  up  together,  they  hove  us  the  borf 
on  the  whole  of  which  there  was  not  a single  ounce  of  meat. 

The  camel  now  lying  by  the  side  of  us,  they  began  to  pack  , 
and  to  load  the  poor  beast,  which  had  neither  ate  nor  drank 
thing  since  we  first  saw  him.  When  it  came  to  packing  away  'j 
skin,  we  begged  so  hard,  that  they  gave  each  of  us  about  half  a ft 
of  water  out  of  it,  the  water  in  which  being  by’  this  time  m ; 
than  half  consumed.  Our  travelling  seemed  then  to  commence  v i 
speed.  We  took  the  same  course  which  we  had  travelled  in  bet: 
we  had  seen  the  men  now  with  us,  and  pursued  it  for  about  12  mil, 
and  then  crossed  the  adjacent  barren  mountains  in  an  E.  S.  E. 
rection-  The  mountains  were  very  ragged,  consisting  of  sand  £ 
rocks  alternately.  When  we  were  come  to  the  descent  of  them,  I 
had  hopes  of  seeing  a better  country  ; instead  of  which  it  beca 
still  worse,  or  more  difficult  for  travelling,  as  the  sand  hills  increa.1 
in  size  and  number.  We  followed  along  the  foot  of  those  mountai , 
keeping  them  on  our  left,  our  course  being  from  east  to  south-ea, 
according  to  the  direction  that  we  found  most  easy  to  get  along  . 
Towards  night  we,  each  of  us,  got  about  one  pint  of  the  sweet  b- 
ries  ! they  were  about  the  size  of  whortleberries,  the  stone,  or], 
being  in  quantity  full  three-fourths  of  the  whole.  We  ate  the^ 
stone  and  all,  for  the  stones  were  not  hard  to  our  teeth.  We  dug 
water,  but  found  none.  At  dark  we  got  about  half  a gill  each  of 
water  from  the  sack  ; that  drink  finished  it,  and  we  lay  down.  T 
Arabs  tied  up  the  left  fore  leg  of  the  camel,  and  let  him  go.  As 
feed,  there  was  none. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  the  contrast  there  between  night  and  d ' 


Haddock’s  narrative'. 


55 


e o-  very  great.  The  wind  was  high  all  the  night,  and  we  all  lay 
15'ering,  and  whispering  to  each  other  of  our  sad  situation  ; while 
» Arabs,  who  had  our  blankets  in  addition  to  their  haicks,  lay 
tn.  Jack  and  myself  lay  close  to  the  man  who  claimed  us  both, 
n when  l thought  him  asleep,  I softly  hauled  the  blanket  partly 
Jim  upon  myself.  The  moment  he  missed  it  he  gave  me  a hard 
imp  with  his  list;  and  it  was  a long  time  before  I got  clear  of  the 
aj  which  the  blow  occasioned.  We  now  computed  our  distance 
•a  the  ship  at  forty  miles,  having  travelled  the  best  part  of  twen- 
/ >ur  hours.  Great  as  our  sufferings  were,  sleep  at  last  closed  our 

1- 


CHAP.  V. 

itlhalf  burial,  in  our  sleep,  under  the  drifting  sand — My  Arab  master  springs  furi-- 
sly  upon  me,  and  strips  me  of  my  body-clothes — Our  power  of  swallowing  sus- 
nded  by  our  parching  thirst — The  kindly  efforts  of  black  Sam  in  my  behalf — Our 
irst  slaked  at  a pond  of  putrid  water — Its  description — The  bloated  appearance 
their  camel  after  his  drinking — The  dismalness  of  our  night-lodging — -A  patch  of 
;.rley  in  the  milk  ravenously  devoured  by  us — The  punctiliousness  of  the  Arabs  in 

i eir  devotions,  as  welt  as  constancy  in  their  villames,  regularly  praying,  cheating, 
hiring,  and  murdering,  by  turns— Instance  of  the  incomparable  worth  of  cool  wa- 
rto  the  thirsty — Our  rencontre  with  hundreds  of  Arabian  horsemen  and  footmen, 
io  search  us  for  money,  and  conduct  us  in  triumph  to  a tented  tribe — Our  intolera- 
3 sufferings  there,  from  the  heat,  from  the  throng,  and  from  thirst — Our  introduc- 
w to  George,  an  English  youth  in  slavery — His  joy  at  seeing  us — His  haggardly 
ipearance — His  affectionate  behaviour  to  us — His  interesting  story — A summary 
our  sufferings  in  our  five  days’  travel. 

)n  the  morning  of  the  11th  we  were  awaked,  at  dawn  of  day,  by 
ft  Arabs  at  their  prayers.  This  was  indeed  a miserable  night’s  rest, 
iiest  it  may  be  called  ; the  sand  for  our  pillow,  and  the  heavens  our 
'.copy,  with  merciless  barbarians  by  our  side  to  beat  us.  Such 
e reme  sufferings,  by  night,  as  well  as  by  day,  we  thought  more 
tin  human  nature  could  long  endure  ; nevertheless,  the  hope  of  be- 
lt redeemed  by  some  good  Christian  was  made  our  constant  topic, 
u the  purpose  of  cheering  one  another  up.  Prayers  were  now 
o >r,  the  camel  that  lay  near  us  was  loaded,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
nrch,  di.strest  as  ive  were  with  hunger  and  thirst,  and  every  one  of 
umakingthe  outcries  of  misery.  At  the  same  time,  the  Arabs  ap- 
pred  callous  to  every  feeling  of  humanity,  by  their  frequently  call- 
iii;  out  to  us,  Bomar.  The  camel  walked  fast,  and  we  were  driven 
o to  keep  pace  with  him,  which  was  out  of  our  power.  As  we  were 
diwing  away  from  the  ridge  of  mountains,  the  country  appeared 
nre  level,  but  still  rocky,  and  there  were  some  sand  banks  which 
i was  hard  for  us  to  cross,  becoming  more  and  more  worn  down 
vth  fatigue.  About  11  o’clock  the  Arabs  dug  for  water,  and 
f ind  a little  that  was  exceeding  bad,  but  it  served  very  well  to 
rench  our  burning  thirst.  As  soon  as  that  was  in  part  satisfied. 
I;  hunger  became  more  painful.  One  of  our  sailors  discovered  at 
at  time  that  he  had  in  his  pocket  a small  potatoe,  of  the  size  of  a 


66  paddock’s  narrative. 

large  walnut ; half  of  that  he  privately  gave  me,  and  1 thought  : { 
thing  ever  tasted  to  me  more  pleasant. 

The  sun  was  so  powerfully  hot  that  the  sweat  not  only  dropp 
but,  on  most  of  our  faces,  it  ran  down  in  a stream.  We  were  p 
mitted  to  lie  down  awhile,  and  soon  fell  asleep.  The  wind  blow 
fresh,  we  were  very  soon  called  up,  when  we  were  more  than  1 
covered  with  the  drifting  sand,  and  no  doubt,  in  a short  time, 
should  have  been  buried  alive  in  the  drifts.  I believe  there  \ 
none  among  us  but  would  have  been  willing  to  remain  undisturbi 
and  die  there.  When  we  arose,  the  Arabs  appeared  uncommoi 
irritated,  and  fell  to  abusing  us  sadly.  W e marched  on,  sulferi 
more  and  more  from  fatigue,  and  the  want  of  water  and  food,  a 
we  all  concluded  that  we  could  not  long  continue  alive  without : 
lief.  At  that  instant,  Johnson  very  unexpectedly  reached  me 
piece  of  biscuit,  about  the  size  of  a large  walnut,  and  said  he  pick 
up  double  that  quantity  from  among  the  luggage,  when  the  car 
was  loading  the  day  before  ; that  he  had  eaten  half  of  it  himself,  a 
reserved  this  piece  forme,  but  had  not  an  opportunity  to  give  it i 
discovered  before  now,  as  he  knew  the  Arabs  would  take  it  if 
were  seen  by  them.  After  marching  a short  time,  the  leader,  i1 
master,  called  out,  Umbar — sit  down.  We  soon  obeyed,  and  wl:! 
seated,  they  took  a little  meal  which  had  been  concealed  from  cj 
view,  and  ate  it.  We  expected  some  small  share,  but  we  got  nor| 
My  master  looked  very  sternly,  at  me  : at  that  moment  he  got  sid 
of  my  sleeve  buttons,  and  caught  me  by  the  wrist.  I saw  what 
was  after,  and  gave  them  up  as  soon  as  I could  unbutton  my  sleev< 
Till  this  time  I had  not  been  deprived  of  any  of  my  wearing  appai, 
except  what  was  in  my  sailors’  packs.  He  then  ordered  me  j 
strip,  and  necessity  obliged  me  to  comply.  My  coat,  waistcoji 
shirt,  and  neck  handkerchief,  were  taken  from  me,  and  laid  by  ll 
side.  I begged  hard  for  my  clothes,  or  some  part  of  them,  but  to  j 
effect : the  piece  of  bread  happened  to  be  in  the  pocket  of  my  p a» 
taloons.  Soon  after  this  a general  search  of  us  took  place.  1 
fine  shirts,  which  the  sailors  had  on  them,  were  all  taken  avmj 
whereas  those  who  fortunately  had  only  their  own  shirts  on,  whi 
were  coarser,  and  some  of  them  not  white,  were  permitted  to  wc| 
them. 

After  this  business  was  over,  we  re-commenced  our  march,  ujj 
clothes  lying  upon  the  back  of  the  camel.  I confess  the  shedding  j 
some  part  of  my  sheep’s  wool  was  to  me  a momentary  relief;  fo 
xv hat  followed  caused  me  many  fears.  At  that  time  I was  eati 
my  biscuit,  or  rather  grinding  it  to  powder  between  my  teeth; 
fact,  the  power  of  swallowing  was  lost  to  me.  This  was  the  fi;|j 
lime  I ever  had  in  my  mouth  any  food  which  I could  not,  after  che| 
ingit,  convey  to  my  stomach  ; now  I found  it  could  not  be  done  1,] 
the  want  of  fluid  or  moisture  in  my  mouth  and  throat.  My  modi 
was  so  parched  up  that  the  biscuit  could  render  me  no  service ; i) 
the  least  morsel  found  its  way  down  ; every  particle  was  discharge 
or  blown  from  the  mouth  whenever  the  upper  and  lower  jaw  opene 

Towards  night  the  country  became  more  rocky  and  hilly,  vrij 


57 


paddock’s  narrative. 

iier  sand  drifts;  many  of  them  we  were  obliged  to  go  round,  as 
ir  were  too  steep  for  the  camel  to  ascend,  being  in  some  instan- 
e from  20  to  50  feet  high,  and  nearly  perpendicular.  The  rocky 
edition  of  the  ground  added  to  the  fatigue  of  travelling,  and  such 
•(;  the  groans  and  cries  for  water  among  our  poor  fellows,  who 
e?r  before  knew  its  value,  as  made  the  scene  truly  distressing. 
P Arabs,  from  habit,  could  go  a long  time  without  water,  and  did 
othen  appear  to  suffer  at  all  in  comparison  with  the  sufferings 
'h  we  endured. 

s soon  as  the  burning  sun  had  retired  a little  behind  the  moun- 
ts of  sand,  we  were  spurred  on  with  greater  haste.  When  it  sunk 
eath  the  horizon,  the  fresh  wind  cooled  the  earth,  which  became 
jt  cold  before  dark.  Negro  Sam,  as  he  was  walking  by  my  side, 
id  me  if  I was  cold.  I told  him  I was.  He  then  took  off  his 
: jacket,  and  reached  it  to  me,  and  I put  it  on.  After  this  he 
plained  to  his  master  that  he  was  cold ; whereupon  his  master 
e to  me,  in  anger,  probably  thinking  that  I had  taken  the  jacket 
Sam  by  demanding  it  of  him.  Sam  made  him  understand 
I was  not  to  suffer.  He,  the  Arab,  then  gave  Sam  my  coat, 
when  it  was  quite  dark  we  exchanged  coats,  and  I got  my  own 
|n.  This  evening’s  walk  was  worse  than  any  thing  we  had  be- 
experienced.  About  9 o’clock  we  all  ascended  a mountain,  I 
ild  suppose  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet  high,  over  craggy 
<:s  ; at  every  step  our  joints  seemed  to  be  dislocating.  When  we 
e on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the  Arabs  called  out,  Shrub  bezef. 
ij  knew  that  shrub  was  water,  and  concluded  that  bezef  was 
iity.  That  sound  cheered  us  all.  The  camel,  which  on  our 
Kch  was  always  driven  ahead,  started  off  at  full  trot,  and  all  the 
.lbs  after  him,  except  one,  who  brought  up  our  rear.  The  de- 
lft of  this  mountain  was  ten  limes  worse  than  the  ascent ; our 
,‘i  slipping  or  giving  way  at  almost  eve'ry  step,  it  being  too  dark  to 
t:  our  road.  We  found  it  indeed  almost  too  much  to  be  borne, 
n nothing  but  the  hopes  of  finding  water  could  have  kept  us  from 
king  under  our  troubles  and  sufferings. 

/Ten  we  were  nearly  half  way  down  the  mountain,  we  began  to 
all  something,  which  could  be  compared  to  nothing  I could  think 
f ut  bilge  water  in  the  hold  of  a ship  ; the  nearer  we  approached 
. e stronger  was  the  smell.  Before  we  had  come  to  the  water  the 
a el  had  drank  of  it,  as  also  had  all  the  Arabs  except  the  one  jn 
krear,  who  taking  a wooden  bowl  from  one  of  his  companions, 
i oed  up  the  water  and  drank  it.  From  him  I took  the  bowl,  dip- 
e it  full,  and  drank  every  drop.  My  mates  being  by  my  side, 
aed  out,  “ Captain,  you  will  kill  yourself!”  The  bowl  contained 
f :ast  a gallon,  and  some  said  five  quarts.  Several  others  of  us 
nk  as  much  as  I did  myself.  The  reader  may  be  astonished  at 
r taking  down  such  a quantity  at  a draught,  and  much  more  so, 
i n he  is  informed  that  the  water  was  so  putrid  that  the  smell  of 
- -ached  from  a quarter  to  half  a mile  ; and  that  when  drinking  it, 
ound  it  as  thick  as  common  gruel  used  in  sickness.  After  all 
jpest  of  us  had  been,  satisfied,  l took  another  drink,  of  at  least  a. 

.a 


paddock’s  narrative. 


. 5 .8 

quart,  and  then  some  others,  if  not  all,  mended  their  draught ; w 
we  all  lay  down  by  the  side  of  the  pond,  and  slept  finely  ; I thii 
never  enjoyed  a finer  night’s  sleep  in  all  my  life.  This  day’s  tr; 
we  computed  at  35  miles.  One  of  our  men,  who  had  been  usei 
driving  a team,  thought  our  calculation  was  moderate. 

At  dawn  of  day  on  the  12th,  we  were  awaked,  as  usual,  by 
voices  of  the  Arabs  saying  their  prayers.  On  looking  about  us, 
found  that  the  pond  was  formed  by  means  of  the  hollow  in  aro 
it  was  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  had  fa 
since  the  last  rains  six  or  eight  feet  perpendicularly;  the  depth  t 
remaining  we  could  not  ascertain  ; the  whole  surface  was  cov< 
■with  a green  scum.  The  edges  of  it,  all  around,  showed  the  iru 
of  the  wild  beasts  that  had  frequently  resorted  to  it  for  drink.  ' 
smell  from  it  did  not  seem  to  us  so  nauseous  this  morning  as  it 
the  evening  before,  when  our  stomachs  were  empty.  When  t 
prayers  were  over,  they  began  to  load  the  camel,  which  appe; 
almost  double  the  size  he  was  of  the  preceding  evening.  Hcrt 
ed  to  drink  this  morning.  When  we  were  ready  for  a march, 
Arabs  waded  up  to  their  knees  in  the  water,  and  dipped  up  c 
enough  to  fill  their  small  skin,  and  returning  to  the  shore,  they  p 
ed  the  wooden  bowl  bottom  upwards  upoon  a rock,  by  the  side  oi 
foot  path  leading  from  the  mountain. 

We  now  were  marched  ofi'in  about  an  east-south-east  direct 
our  course,  however,  changing  according  to  circumstances  ; foi 
stance,  to  avoid  mountains  and  sand  hills.  Generally  our  course 
in  our  opinion,  as  nearly  east-south-east  as  we  could  ascertai 
In  this  forenoon’s  march  we  suffered  less  than  usual ; our  road 
more  level.  About  noon,  it  being  calm,  the  sun  was  so  scorchin 
to  be  almost  insufferable.  We  then  complained  of  this  forced  ma 
but  Bomar  was  rung  in  our  ears,  and  was  echoed  from  the  li 
About  2 o’clock  we  were  permitted  to  lie  down  for  rest;  howe 
not  before  we  had  endured  some  foul  usage  from  them.  We 
there  nearly  two  hours,  and  slept  in  our  wet  clothes,  that  weren 
wet  by  our  pirofuse  perspiration.  It  seemed  as  if  all  the  water 
had  drank  the  night  before  had  passed  oft’  through  the  pores  ol 
skin  ; for  our  mouths,  had  now  become  as  parched  as  before.  A 
this  rest,  we  begged  for  water,  and  each  of  us  got  about  one 
which  did  not  seem  to  make  our  throats  wet,  as  our  tongues 
dry  again  in  a few  minutes.  The  Arabs  used  this  water  very  s ^ 
ingly,  and  took  along  with  it  some  little  meal,  which  we  could: 
get  a taste  of.  Towards  evening,  we  saw  for  the  first  time  s 
small  shrubs,  appearing  like  our  dwarf  thorn  bushes.  The  cs 
seized  hold  of  the  tops  and  little  branches,  which  he  ate  with  ai 
ty ; they  were  dry,  so  that  in  breaking  them  with  our  hands! 
could  discover  very  little  moisture  within  the  bark.  Such  as 
were,  we  chewed  the  twigs,  but  could  not  expect  any  susten:  f 
from  them. 

As  soon  as  the  camel  had  eat  what  they  thought  propier,  we  ir 
driven  on  again.  By  this  time  the  ridge  of  mountains  we  had  era 
ed  after  we  left  the  cave,  was  no  more  visible  to  us  ; all  the  com’] 


paddo-ck’s  narrative* 


59 


paring  more  and  more  gloomy  the  further  we  went.  Where,  or 
I n,  this  dismal  scene  would  change,  was  what  wre  made  our  com- 
ic; topic  of  conversation  ; well  1’nowing  that  we  could  not  long  en- 
|j:  such  cruel  treatment,  added  to  our  suffering  the  privation  of  the 
[Jt  essential  necessaries  of  life.  Night  came,  and  we  brought  to 
iiie  top  of  the  highest  sand  hill  then  in  sight,  and  finished  all  the 
e;r,  which  was  not  more  than  half  a gill  to  each  ; we  having  tra- 
ihd  full  thirty-six  miles.  It  was  quite  midnight  before  we  could 
i [asleep ; the  aching  of  our  bones,  our  distress  from  thirst,  and  the 
S and  coldness  of  the  wind,  seemed  to  stop  the  circulation  of  our 
Id.  Any  person  who  has  seen  the  same  number  of  hogs  lying 
jther  in  a cold  night,  may  figure  to  himself  our  position . ; every 
| of  us  shivering,  and  striving  to  obtain  some  little  warmth  from 
one  lying  nearest  to  him.  The  Arabs,  as  usual,  were  wrapt  up 
I;,  under  our  blankets.  At  dawn  of  day  on  the  1 3th,  we  found 
clothes  were  wet  with  a heavy  dew,  which  fell  towards  morning 
its  the  heaviest  we  had  experienced  since  the  time  of  our  leaving 
(ship.  Our  limbs  were  stiff,  and  the  animation  we  had  left,  was 
lly  enough  to  enable  us  to  raise  ourselves  up. 
fter  the  usual  prayers,  and  loading  the  camel,  we  started  on,  but 
: slowly,  walking  a mile  at  least  before  our  blood  begun  to  circu- 
as  usual,  the  weather  being  yet  cold,  by  means  of  this  uncom- 
devv.  When  the  sun  had  risen,  the  cravings  of  our  thirst  in- 
:sed,  but  we  had  neither  water  to  cool  our  tongues,  nor  food  to 
port  nature,  and,  of  course,  we  travelled  but  slowly  during  the 
hie  of  this  day.  There  was  no  visible  change  in  the  face  of  the 
jv.try,  which  appeared  nearly  level,  but  sand  drifts  were  more 
Nmon  : a great  many  of  them  were  not  more  than  four  feet  high, 
|h  the  camel  could  mount  without  much  difficulty  ; but  we  poor 
ffeiated  beings  had  scarcely  strength  to  move,  and  we  thought  it 
at  have  been  much  for  the  interest  of  our  merciless  masters  had 
id  suffered  us  to  take  our  turns  with  themselves  in  riding.  By  such 
a rrangement,  our  progress  this  day  might  have  been  increased 
e ly  one  half,  as  two  of  us  at  a time  might  have  ridden.  We 
®e  signs  to  them  in  order  to  bring  that  about,  but  all  in  vain : 
car,  Bomar,  was  their  only  reply  to  us.  .Our  course  all  along 
s!  nearly  the  same,  that  is,  from  east  to  east-south-east.  About 
laiiddle  of  the  afternoon,  the  land  on  our  left  appeared  to  rise  a 
il',  and  we  observed  the  Arabs  talking  much,  and  often  pointing, 
i ’ they  did  not  agree  together  respecting  the  subject  they  were 
kbursing  about.  The  sun  was  hot,  and  we  were  near  perishing, 
hn  on  a sudden  two  of  them  started,  and  ran  off’ in  a north-eastern 
u:tion,  we  dragging  ourselves  along  after  them.  As  soon  as  they 
ijascended  one  of  the  hillocks,  we  discovered  that  they  were  much 
B^ged,  appearing  to  be  gathering  something  from  the  face  of  the 
m.  We  doubled  our  diligence,  and  soon  came  to  the  place,  and, 
) Jr  astonishment,  we  found  about  a quarter  of  an  acre  of  ground 
lily  covered  with  barley  in  the  milk,  of  about  18  inches  in  height. 

1 Arabs  all  fell  to  work  to  gather  and  eat ; we  followed  their  ex- 
ile, and  the  grain  being  full  of  milk,  we  were  able  in  a few  minutes 


60 


padbociCs  narrative. 

to  raise  moisture  enough  in  our  mouths  and  throats  to  aid  us  in  sil 
lowing. 

The  Arabs  now,  for  the  first  time,  showed  toward  us  some  m;| 
of  kindness,  so  far  as  to  assist  us  to  fill  our  stomachs  with  this  ia 
grain  ; they  being  quicker  in  gathering  it  than  we  were.  The  cal 
was  not  idle  ; and,  in  half  an  hour,  we  finished  the  piece.  'll 
piece  of  grain  appeared  to  have  no  other  soil  than  clear  sand,  sj| 
as  we  had  all  along  travelled  over,  and  it  seems  astonishing  that  h 
vegetable  substance  could  find  support  there.  A more  delic  t 
morsel  than  that  cannot  be  described  ; nor  had  we  the  least  com 
of  any  inconvenience  or  injury  to  ourselves  from  that  sumptuous} 
past.  Reader,  pause  a minute,  and  figure  to  yourself  the  app  1 
ance  of  ten  of  your  poor  unfortunate  fellow-mortals,  crawling  < 
the  face  of  the  earth,  feeding  on  half  grown  grain,  by  the  side  < 
camel,  and  intermixed  with  eight  wild  Arabs,  who,  in  all  app 
ance,  were  dragging  them  into  perpetual  bondage,  never  to  hea;l 
nor  see  any  more,  their  dear  friends  and  most  beloved  relatic 
Such  as  this,  was  the  situation  in  which  we  were  placed. 

After  a short  stay  there,  we  were  ordered  to  march.  We  now 
strong  hopes  of  seeing  soon  a fertile  spot  that  might  refresh  our 
down  meagre  bodies.  Night  came,  and  having  travelled  25  m 
we  laid  down,  and  slept  finely,  experiencing  no  other  inconvenk 
but  that  of  cold.  In  the  arrangement  of  the  luggage  in  the  even 
there  was  some  difference  from  what  had  been  their  former  man 
It  was  put  in  the  centre,  ourselves  around  it,  and  the  Arabs  ocj! 
outer  side  of  us  ; and  the  camel  was  secured  better  than  he  comm 
ly  had  been,  to  prevent  his  wandering  far  away.  Whether  1 
were  guarding  against  wild  beasts,  or  wild  men,  we  could  not  ( 
jecture  ; this,  however,  did  not  keep  us  awake  a single  moment, 
thought  our  situation  could  not  be  worse  than  it  was,  and  that 
change  would  be  for  the  better.  Unusually  early  on  the  mornin 
the  14  th,  when  signs  of  day  were  scarcely  in  the  sky,  we  were  awai 
and  while  the  Arabs  were  at  prayers,  we,  rambling  a little  way  Ilf 
them,  found  several  spears  of  barley,  which  we  gathered  and  I 
As  soon  as  possible,  after  their  devotions,  they  loaded  the  camel,  ■> 
we  all  marched  on  in  about  the  same  course  that  we  had  genet!!; 
travelled.  About  sunrise,  a boy  of  nearly  fifteen  years  old  mack  i 
appearance  on  a sand  hill,  within  call  of  us.  He  stood  motion |> 
for  several  minutes,  vierving  us.  The  Arabs  called  to  him  :j;t 
made  no  reply,  but  gave  an  uncommonly  loud  yell,  and  ran  off  at  I 
speed  eastward,  and  was  soon  out  of  sight.  This  hove  us  all  < 
confusion,  and  we  stopt.  It  then  appeared  that  the  man  with  ■ 
camel  wras  making  some  sort  of  settlement  with  our  masters ; i 
camel  was  unloaded,  and  he  soon  started  off  westward,  riding' 
camel  at  a full  trot.  It  was  at  that  time  reasonable  to  expectant 
habited  country  at  no  great  distance  from  us. 

As  soon  as  the  man  and  the  camel  were  off,  the  Arabs  bega 
load  us  with  what  luggage  the  camel  had  carried,  but  we  wer  - 
weak  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  walk  under  our  burths 
*md  very  often  we  fell  down  on  the  sand.  When  the  sun  had  g( 1 


61 


paddock’s  narrative. 

itp  up,  the  heat  I thought  was  more  extreme  than  we  had  ever 
) id  it  before.  At  10  o’clock  we  were  so  worn  down  that  we  could 
cstir  another  step,  nor  did  their  threats  and  their  blows  have  any 
£:t  in  getting  us  along.  Those  who  have  never  suffered  the  ex- 
raity  of  thirst  cannot  possibly  realize  what  our  sufferings  were  at 
h time.  I verily  believe  there  was  none  of  us  but  would  have 
ol  his  very  life  for  a tumbler  of  cool  water.  When  the  Arabs 
o id  that  we  could  not  advance  along,  they  took  off  our  burthens, 
r made  a selection  of  the  articles,  while  ourselves  were  lying  down 
n little  valley.  They  no  doubt  buried  the  greatest  part  in  the 
id  ; the  remainder  they  took  upon  their  own  backs, 
leing  now  a little  rested,  we  again  began  our  march,  and  after 
fuelling  but  two  or  three  miles,  we  saw  a rising  ground  not  far 
.l  ad,  and  immediately  upon  this,  we  saw  hundreds  of  men,  some  on 
and  some  on  horseback,  coming  towards  us  in  full  speed.  As 
j approached  us,  we  perceived  that  they  were  all  armed,  with 
h a musket.  The  horsemen  came  to  us  first,  and  they  all  dis- 
nmted.  Such  confusion  ensued  as  cannot  easily  be  described. 

ifir  questions,  as  far  as  we  could  learn  them,  were,  Who  have  you 
3 ? Are  they  English  or  Spaniards  ? Have  they  money  ? Where 
you  find  them,  &c.  ? They  came  round  us,  and  searched  every 
n of  us  for  money.  One  might  have  thought  they  knew  their  own 
tjntrymen  too  well  to  expect  we  had  any  thing  left  us.  We  beg- 
jt  for  water,  at  the  same  time  showing  them  our  tongues,  which 
ffe  as  dry  as  powder.  They  replied  to  us,  Shrub  mackan — wa- 
enone.  They  undertook  to  examine  the  luggage  that  was  on  the 
■ks  of  the  Arabs,  which  the  carriers  defended  by  hard  scolding, 
is  or  two  of  them  were  handled  very  roughly,  particularly  the  one 
lb  claimed  myself  and  Jack. 

ifter  this  war  of  words  had  in  some  little  measure  subsided,  we 
tre  ordered  to  march  on.  We  thought  at  first,  from  certain  ap- 
Blirahces,  that  our  new  visitors  had  took  us  into  their  own  possession, 
'i  we  were  soon  cured  of  that  error.  Our  old  masters  gave  us  to 
i lerstand  that  our  situation  in  this  respect  had  not  been  altered, 
t on  our  ascending  the  rising  ground,  we  beheld,  at  no  great  dis- 
K ce,  a large  number  of  tents,  to  which  we  were  marched  in  appa- 
n t triumph.  As  soon  as  we  had  approached  to  within  about  a hun- 
d d yards  of  those  tents,  we  were  ordered  to  sit  down,  and  were 
s Pounded  with  men,  women,  and  children,  to  the  number  of  from 
s en  hundred  and  fifty  to  a thousand. 

This  day  we  had  travelled  fifteen  miles ; it  was  now  about  2 
olock,  and  excessively  hot.  The  crowd  around  us  prevented  all 
cculation  of  the  air,  so  that  we  were  nearly  suffocated,  and  at  the 
s ue  time  were  ready  to  perish  with  thirst,  and  all  begging  for  wa- 
II,  our  masters  being  out  of  sight.  Whether  mere  curiosity  drew 
t s multitude  of  people  about  us,  or  whether  we  were  going  to  be 
f posed  for  sale,  or  what  else  was  their  object,  none  of  us  could 
tl,  nor  did  we  trouble  ourselves  about  it.  So  much  did  we  suffer 
l water,  that  our  minds  were  wholly  occupied  upon  that  most  in- 
■nportable  of  all  earthly  cravings.  On  all  sides  innumerable  ones- 


paddock’s  narrative. 


62 

tions  were  asked  us,  and  many  signs  made  for  us  to  inform  the  ji 
we  had  buried  any  money,  and  of  other  matters. 

After  suffering  for  half  an  hour  in  this  horrid  situation,  we  ] •. 
ceived  a great  bustle  on  the  outside  of  the  assembly  that  surrounc 
us,  the  cause  of  which  we  were  not  long  at  a loss  for.  The  1 c 
noise  drew  nearer  and  nearer  to  us,  till,  very  soon,  to  our  astoiff 
inent,  we  heard  a voice  inquiring  in  plain  English,  Where  are  th 
Where  are  they  ? It  was  not  a dream.  A young  man,  once  wl 
got  through  the  crowd  at  last.  It  was  an  English  youth  of  al 
nineteen,  his  skin  deeply  burnt  with  the  sun,  without  hat  or  sk 
and  his  nakedness  covered  with  only  a few  rags.  The  first  wc| 
uttered  to  us  by  this  frightful  looking  object,  were,  Who  are  y jj 
My  friends!  my  friends  ! the  tears  running  down  his  cheeks. 

I would  have  risen  to  salute  him,  but  was  too  feeble.  He 
dowm  by  my  side  •,  we  all  shook  hands  with  him,  and  began  our  ( 
versation.  We  told  him  who  we  were,  and  he,  in  return,  gave  ui 
account  of  himself ; the  Arabs  meanwhile  interrupting  him  ei 
now  and  then,  to  get  our  tale  of  him.  In  turn,  he  satisfied  them  i 
had  inquired  of  him  where  we  were  wrecked,  how  much  money 
goods  we  had  on  board,  where  it  was  now,  how  much  those  me 
taineers  (as  they  called  our  owners)  had  got,  and  so  on.  Geo 
for  that  was  his  name,  freely  informed  us,  as  to  himself,  that  he  was 
steward  of  a ship  called  the  Martin  Hall,  of  London,  cast  away  u 
that  coast  more  than  a year  before  ; that  one  of  the  crew  was  ki 
by  the  natives,  and  the  captain  he  supposed  was  drowned  ; that] 
of  the  crew  had  been  marched  back,  in  a south-east  direction,  i 
place  they  called  Elie;  that  another  part  had  been  carried  to  Sw< 
ah,  and  there  ransomed ; that  four  of  them  yet  remained  among 
wandering  Arabs,  who  had  been  very  cruel  to  them  ; that  noni 
them  but  himself  belonged  to  the  tribe  he  was  in  ; that  two  b 
were  not  far  off ; one  other  boy  he  had  not  heard  from  lately,  but  !■ 
lieved  he  was  distant  not  many  days’  march.  “ This,”  said  Geoff 
is  all  I can  tell  about  our  poor  unfortunate  crew,  but  I have  no  do1! 
that  some  of  them  have  been  murdered,  for  I heard  they  did  not  f 1 
a ready  sale  for  all  that  were  carried  to  Elie,  and  that  our  sailors  ■ 
came  turbulent  there,  and  a quarrel  ensued;  the  Arabs  themseljj- 
acknowledged  that  several  of  our  men  were  wounded  in  the  fir: 
but  these  cursed  monsters  will  lie  like  dogs,  and  there  is  no  belij- 
ing  them  ; what  makes  me  think  they  were  murdered,  I have  latjv 
heard  that  some  of  their  shoes  and  hats  have  been  seen  in  thatnei,!- 
bourhood.”  This  story  of  George  excited  our  utmost  attentij. 
though  it  was  frequently  interruptedly  the  Arabs  during  the  wh 1 
of  the  time.  * 

Hitherto  not  a drop  had  been  given  us  to  drink,  and  George  njf 
told  the  Arabs  that  we  were  suffering  with  thirst ; but  it  only  mi 
them  laugh.  Upon  this,  he  started  on  through  the  crowd,  d 
brought  us  about  two  quarts  of  milk  and  water.  This  we  divided 
believe  very  equally,  by  each  of  us  sipping  a little,  and  then  rea'  ■ 
ing  it  to  his  next  neighbour.  That  delicious  beverage  occasiod 
such  warm  expressions  of  gratitude  as  I had  never  heard  befo; 


paddock’s  narrative.  G3 

ai  of  us,  in  his  own  style,  ejaculating  his  thanks  to  poor  George, 
i!  then  to  our  Father  in  heaven.  Though  the  quantity  was  small, 
tij,  by  taking  it  in  that  way,  every  drop  felt  in  our  famished  sto- 
n hs  as  a cordial.  To  the  faculty  in  particular,  I leave  it  to  de- 
mine  what  must  have  been  the  internal  state  of  our  bodies,  after 
selling,  between  the  9th  and  14th  of  that  month,  a hundred  and 
asy- five  miles  at  least,  over  burning  sands  and  craggy  mountains, 
fit  a sun  nearly  vertical,  scorching,  like  fire,  our  emaciated  frames  ; 
ring  not  more  than  four  ounces  of  food  to  each,  excepting  the 
a barley,  and  not  more  than  one  quart  of  water  each,  excepting 
■stinking  water  in  the  pond.  As  incredible  as  this  story  of  mine, 
v appear  to  such  as  have  never  experienced  the  like  privations 
r sufferings,  I know,  and  do  affirm  it  to  be  true, 
jlo  sooner  had  the  inquisitive  Arabs  drawn  off  from  us,  than  I in- 
aved  of  George  where  Swearahwas?  He  said  he  never  could 
*in,  the  Arabs  having  always  evaded  answering  that  inquiry,  and 
ijned  angry  whenever  he  put  the  question  to  them;  but  he  be’ 
ued  it  was  Mogadore.  He  then  asked  me  about  the  coast  where 
a English  had  their  trade  ; observing  to  me  that  some  of  the  Arabs 
il  n journeyed  eastward,  and  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three 
bks,  returned  with  certain  English  manufactures,  such  as  combs, 
o;ing-glasses,  beads,  scissors,  knives,  powder,  guns,  and  so  on. 

plied,  as  St.  Cruez  was  nearer,  and  a port  where  a trade  was 
fried  on  by  European  nations,  I rather  thought  that  that  must  be 
h:arah.  He  said  he  had  never  heard  them  so  much  as  name  St. 
hez;  and  1 answered  it  was  the  Portuguese  name,  and,  by  in- 
jt'ing,  he  might  find  out  what  the  Arabic  name  was. 

feorge  appeared  very  much  delighted  with  our  company,  and  no 
lebthad  hopes  that  we  might  be  the  means  of  his  ransom  from  sla- 
#ty.  Speaking  of  the  ones  who  then  had  us  in  their  keeping,  he 
id  to  me,  “ These  fellows  don’t  belong  here  to  our  tribe,  nor  any 
v ire  hereabouts  ; they  were  here  about  ten  or  twelve  days  ago;  l 
■c.iember  them  very  well,  they  got  supper  here,  and  went  off  the 
it  t day,  travelling  westward  ; they  are  hunters,  and  poor  dogs. 
Bend  on  it.  I will  find  out  where  they  belong,  and  let  you  know, 
ine,”  he  says,  “let  us  go  to  the  tents,  and  I will  beg  some  meal 
nl  water  for  you;  and,  if  my  old  master  will  let  me  stay  with 
/■I  till  night,  I shall  be  glad.  I was  watching  his  flock,  and  when 
i had  arrived,  he  sent  for  me,  and  put  some  one  else  there  in  my 
rce.” 

We  all  rose  up,  and  on  our  approaching  the  tents,  George  called 
) , “ There  is  our  chief!  he  has  been  gone  these  three  weeks,  and 
i ispect  he  is  from  Swearah.”  He  (the  chief)  came  hastily  to  us, 
a l inquired  who  we  were  ; and  was  told  by  George  that  he  and 
o 'selves  were  all  brothers.  The  old  man  looked  smilingly  on  this 
onsion,  and  George  told  him  we  were  suffering  for  victuals.  He 
mlied,  “ They  shall  have  some  boiled  meal  directly.”  By  this 
hie  the  whole  male  part  of  the  tribe  were  assembled  round  their 
c ef;  and  George,  understanding  the  Arabic,  learnt  from  what  was 
sib  that  he  was  from  Swearah  ; and  certain  words  he  then  caught 


64 


haddock’s  narrative. 


were  made  the  topic  of  a long  conversation  between  him  and  i 
self  afterwards.  He  soon  left  us  to  remain  along  with  his  tribe, 
went  to  visit  his  two  wives,  who  were  sitting  under  his  tent.  I 
senlly  after  George  was  called  away  by  his  master,  not  to  send 
to  the  flock,  but  to  learn  of  him  if  we  had  buried  any  money 
goods.  The  sun  being  now  declining,  and  not  so  extremely 
we  lay  down  upon  the  ground,  and  soon  fell  asleep.  When  it 
nearly  night,  we  were  called  up  by  this  good  young  man,  to  giv 
some  boiled  meal ; but  though  from  fasting  so  long  our  appel  j 
were  not  keen,  yet  we  relished  our  meal  very  well  neverthek 
About  an  hour  afterwards  our  appetites  were  craving,  but  we  cc 
not  procure  much  more,  the  water  for  boiling  it  being  scarce ; h 
ever,  we  got  full  as  much  perhaps  as  was  proper  for  us  in  that  coi 
tion. 

After  George  had  collected  from  his  master  all  the  information 
could  upon  that  subject,  he  told  us  the  men  that  were  our  enslat 
were  hunters,  that  they  belonged  to  a degraded  tribe  of  Arabs,  i 
tant  four  days’  journey,  pointing  to  the  south-east,  and  about 
day’s  journey  from  Elie  ; and  that  they  were  about  to  start  oft’ 
next  morning  for  their  home,  and  take  us  along  with  them.  We 
as  one  declared  ourselves  unable  to  go  further,  and  that  we 
rather  die  on  the  spot  than  attempt  to  advance  another  step. 

I told  George  that  when  these  hunters  had  first  found  us  they 
peared  to  have  made  up  their  minds  to  put  us  to  death,  or  at  If 
showed  signs  of  such  an  intention,  by  re-priming  their  guns,  j 
At  that  moment  the  hunters  were  engaged  in  conversation  within 
of  the  tribe,  and  George,  to  satisfy  himself  as  to  that  matter,  w 
and  spoke  with  them  about  it.  The  old  man,  who  appeared 
be  the  head  one  of  the  gang,  acknowledged  that  at  the  time  of  pi 
dering  us,  it  was  their  intention  to  destroy  our  lives,  but,  on  rec! 
sidcration,  he  said  to  them  they  had  better  let  us  live,  in  order  tl 
we  might  pilot  them  to  our  wreck,  and  after  that  they  could  disp  i 
of  us  as  best  suited  them. 


CHAP.  VI. 

Our  discovery  among  this  tribe  of  two  enslaved  boys  belonging  to  England,  nan ' 
Jack  and  Laura,  the  latter  a mulatto  of  excellent  sense  and  dispositions — 1 
great  use  to  us  as  interpreters — The  ill  character  given  me  of  Jack,  by  George  ! 
Laura — My  ineffectual  efforts  to  find  out  where  lay  Swearah,  the  Arabic  namni 
Mogadore — Arrival  of  Ahemed,  the  chief  of  the  tribe— Our  exposure  to  sale-1 
men  of  the  tribe  throng  around  and  appraise  us — Ahemed  interceded  with,  t 
prevailed  upon  to  buy  us — The  cutting  taunt  upon  the  Christians  for  their  negro  s 
trade — A ferocious  dispute  and  scuffle  for  my  coat — Our  old  masters  depart,  C8 
ing  away  with  them  our  two  black  men — Description  of  the  number,  the  vai  ji 
complexion,  and  the  features  of  that  tribe — The  number  of  their  flocks,  and 
managed — The  process  of  their  milking  and  butter  making — A piece  of  quick  hi 
allotted  me,  much  against  my  grain — Reasons  for  the  decrease  of  our  cravings] 

■water Surpassing  beauty  of  the  Arabian  horses — Preparations  of  the  tribe  fori 

moving  their  quarters — The  articles  of  their  baggage. 

By  this  time  the  chief,  whose  name  was  Ahemed,  and  who  1| 
been  engaged  elsewhere  for  some  time,  came  to  see  us  again,  bri 


paddock’s  narrative. 


65 


Hth  him  another  English  boy,  named  Jack  ; he  was  about  thir- 
or  fourteen  years  old,  covered  with  rags  and  vermin  ; he  had 
irabic  perfectly.  We  talked  to  the  chief  through  him  as  an  in- 
ieter,  for  a short  time,  and  then,  having  found  that  I was  what  they 
Id  Rias,  he  took  me  and  Jack  away  to  a little  distance  from  all 
e fest  of  the  company,  in  order  to  find  out  where  we  had  buried 
money  and  goods.  Upon  my  telling  him  that  we  had  nei- 
g he  refused  to  believe  it.  I told  him  our  ship  was  bound  for  the 
i);  de  Verds  for  a load  of  salt ; that  that  article  was  very  cheap 
at  5 that  what  money  those  hunters  had  taken  from  us  was  suffi- 
for  purchasing  a load  of  salt  for  our  ship.  U pon  this,  he  asked 
i ! there  were  no  salt  in  England  ? I told  him  there  was  salt  there, 
the  Cape  de  Verd  salt  was  cheaper,  and  that  we  had  intended  to 
d our  load  to  another  country,  far  to  the  westward,  where  was 
It,  and  there  to  sell  it  for  a greater  price,  and  return  to  Eng- 
;uj  This  story  of  mine  he  seemed  not  to  believe  ; he  thought  that 
lips  carried  either  money  or  goods,  or  both,  and  he  had  learnt 
■the  hunters  who  brought  us  on,  that  the  Arabs  at  the  ship  found 
ting  in  her  but  sand.  The  sand  I told  him  was  ballast,  and  that 
sip  could  not  sail  without  ballast.  Neither  did  he  believe  that. 
; lien  said,  if  I would  tell  him  where  our  money  was  he  would  buy 
I of  these  men,  and  feed  us  well  at  his  tent,  and  after  the  tribe’s 
■ig  the  wreck,  which  would  be  shortly,  as  he  judged  from  hav- 
Aarnt  that  they  would  soon  burn  her  for  the  sake  of  her  iron; 
tfhen  he  would  go  down  and  take  away  the  buried  treasure  and 
in,  and  carry  us  to  Swearah.  I judged  it  most  prudent  to  per- 
il my  first  story,  thinking  if  I should  tell  him  there  was  money 
aieef  barrel  it  could  do  us  no  good,  but  probably  harm,  as  it: 
| have  led  off  this  chief,  and  one  of  us  wdth  him  perhaps,  to  the 
it,  when,  in  all  probability,  he  wTould  find  her  in  ashes.  I asked 
nhe  English  name  of  Swearah; — he  shook  his  head.  I asked 
ilgain,  and  also  if  it  were  St-  Cruez  or  Mogadore,  and  how  far  it 
»ff ; but  he  did  not  incline  to  give  me  any  information  about  it. 
hi  we  were  about  parting,  it  being  then  in  the  evening,  I entreat- 
|n  to  buy  us  all,  and  told  him  he  would  be  well  paid  for  all  his 
pise  and  trouble.  Taking  Jack  with  him,  he  went  off,  and join- 
bompany  that  w~as  collected  to  hear  the  story  of  our  masters  the 
Mrs. 

ieturned  to  the  place  our  men  were  at,  where  I found  Laura,  a 
enulatto  boy,  one  that  George  had  spoken  to  me  about,  aged 
ay  sixteen  years.  He  understood  about  as  much  Arabic  as 
(tige,  but  neither  of  them  near  as  much  as  Jack.  He,  Jack,  (said 
wo  other  boys  to  me,)  always  joins  with  the  Arabs  in  their 
airs,  and  is  more  an  Arab  than  a Christian,  and  you  must  be 
died  against  him,  for  he  is  a little  treacherous  lying  rascal,  and 
e prefers  the  company  of  these  devils  here  to  ours,  and  has 
u ihischief  among  us,  and  if  he  and  ourselves  quarrel  together, 
dalways  take  Jack’s  part,  and  that  makes  him  the  more  saucy. 
Las  glad  to  find  out  Jack’s  character  so  early.  George  and 
iu  staid  with  us  till  near  midnight ; by  them  I found  that  when- 

9 


Haddock’s  narrative* 


ever  the  Arabs  came  home  after  their  journey  ings,  they  used  to  I 
of  consul  Gwin,  tasher  Court,  lasher  Jackson,  tasher  Hoxcroft, 
others.  The  word  tasher  I concluded  must  mean  merchant ; and 
proper  names  being  English,  I only  wanted  to  know  where  Swea 
was,  to  make  out  a story  that  might  carry  with  it  some  mark 
truth.  George  and  Laura  retired,  and  went  back  to  their  mast 
tents,  and  we,  remaining  in  the  old  tent  provided  for  us,  after  m 
conversation  on  the  subject  of  our  perilous  situation,  went  to  sle 
being  now  for  the  first  time  under  a covering  to  defend  us  aga 
the  cold  winds,  since  the  period  when  we  fell  into  the  hands  of  tl 
cruel  Arabs.  We  slept  sound  all  the  night,  without  any  guarn 
watch  set  over  us.  When  we  first  awoke  on  the  morning  of  the  1 1 
George  and  Laura  were  both  at  our  tent.  They  had  begged  oft, 
masters  the  privilege  of  being  in  our  company  during  the  short  tj 
we  were  to  stay  ; both  of  them  thinking  we  should  be  marchcc; 
that  very  day.  Whereupon  I told  my  men  we  must  all  unite 
firm  resolution  not  to  go,  let  the  consequences  be  what  they  mi{ 
that  as  to  our  travelling  four  days  more,  with  such  treatment  and 
as  we  had  hitherto  experienced,  it  would  be  quite  out  of  the  pc 
of  the  stoutest  man  among  us,  and  we  had  better  die  on  the  spot 
undertake  it.  At  the  same  time  I desired  the  two  boys  to  find 
if  possible,  the  English  of  Swearah.  George  said  it  must  be  Mi 
dore,  as  he  had,  the  last  night,  found  that  that  was  a place  of  g 
trade,  and  Agader,  of  less  at  present,  though  it  was  once  a plac 
much  trade ; he  thought  Agader  must  be  St.  Cruez.  Our  appe 
by  this  time  were  craving,  but  so  great  was  the  anxiety  of  our  mi 
that  victuals  and  drink  were  only  secondary  among  our  wei, 
concerns.  About  9 o’clock  this  most  interesting  young  man,  Gee 
was  able  to  procure  for  us  some  boiled  barley  meal,  and  some 
ter,  which,  though  bad,  did  very  well.  Had  our  minds  been  tj 
quil,  we  no  doubt  should  have  craved  much  more. 

Before  we  got  this  delicious  breakfast,  we  were  visited  by  mo 
the  tribe,  who  made  their  observations  concerning  our  worth,  ra 
some  of  us  at  something  considerable,  and  others  at  nothing  al 
but  concluded  that  we  were  of  no  great  value  taken  altogether.  , 
the  contrary,  the  men  that  had  us  for  sale  (as  is  common  witli 
sellers  every  where)  praised  us  up,  saying  we  were  as  good  as 
Christian  dogs  they  had  ever  seen. 

Some  time  about  10  o’clock,  George  and  Laura,  who  had  1: 
every  moment  watching  the  motions  of  the  Arabs,  came  in  hast  jt 
inform  us  we  were  all  for  sale,  and  that  some  were  actually  sj 
observing  that  Rias  and  the  blacks,  as  well  as  several  others! 
mained  unsold,  their  price  being  too  high.  Laura  entreated  tr  1 
go  to  their  sale  and  plead  for  myself,  and  mentioned  that  boy  .3 
had  a great  deal  to  say  about  us  there.  I thought  it  best,  howt;t 
to  remain  quiet  awhile.  He,  Laura,  continued  begging  me  tc  < 
and  said,  if  I were  to  be  carried  off,  there  would  be  no  chance  ) 
ransom  for  George  and  himself.  After  the  sale  was  partly,  or  r> 
ly  gone  through  with,  Ahamed  came  to  me,  bringing  Jack  along 
hi,m  as  an  interpreter,  and  taking  me  aside,  he  asked  me  if  I had  i 


paddock’s  narrative.  6? 

lid  m Swearah  ? I told  him  I had  a number  of  friends  there., 
live  you,”  said  he,  “ever  been  there  yourself?”  I answered, 
c “Who  do  you  know  there  ?”  I answered  consul  Gwin,  and  a 
u her  of  merchants,  Court,  Jackson,  Hoxcroft,  and  some  others, 
lish,  French,  and  Spaniards.  “ What  sort  of  a man  is  consul 
ui?”  said  he  to  me.  Being  determined  to  make  no  mistake,  I 
nvered  generally,  he  is  a good  man.  This  vague  answer  did  not 
jiify  him,  and  he  told  me  I must  describe  him.  As  1 thought  our 
llilepended  upon  my  correctness  in  this  particular,  I felt  embar- 
i ed,  and  he  discovered  my  embarrassment ; when,  collecting  my- 
na little,  1 told  him  it  was  some  years  since  I had  seen  the  consul, 
u<  according  to  the  best  of  my  recollection,  he  was  about  my  own 
e ht,  but  rather  fatter.  Turning  to  Jack,  he  says,  “ That  is  all 
c t,”  and  locking  his  fingers  together,  off’  at  a distance  from  his 
v,  he  says,  “ His  belly  is  so  big.”  This  fiction  of  mine  Jack  be- 
eed  as  much  as  Ahamcd. 

hamed  then  asked  me  what  I would  give  him,  over  and  above 
i t the  consul  would  give,  if  he  should  buy  me  ? I answered,  it  he 
tld  buy  us  all,  and  then  set  his  price,  I would  think  on  it.  Upon 
ti  he  said  to  me,  “ The  mountaineers  will  not  sell  the  blacks  at 
n price,  for  they  are  as  good  travellers  as  themselves  ; they  are 
If'  that  you  Christian  dogs  have  taken  from  the  Guinea  country,  a 
litate  that  suits  them  best,  and  you  were  going  there  to  get  more 
fhem,  and  are  worse  than  the  Arabs,  who  enslave  you  only  when 
• God’s  will  to  send  you  on  our  coast.”  Never,  l must  confess, 
id  feel  a reproach  more  sensibly;  that  a great  many  wearing  the 
h stian  name  did  force  away  from  their  homes,  and  carry  into  per- 
teial  slavery,  the  poor  African  negroes,  and  thereby  made  them- 
ees  worse  than  Arabs,  I well  knew  was  but  too  true.  However, 
ti  ding  on  my  own  defence,  1 said,  in  reply,  that  was  not  our  busi- 
es : to  which  boy  Jack  answered,  “ It  was  our  business  :”  and  in 
h he  spoke  the  truth,  for  the  ship  he  belonged  to  was  engaged  in 
ti  Guinea  trade. 

'he  chief  demanded  of  me  again,  that  I should  say  how  much  I 
nld  give  him  ; but  at  last  he  set  the  price  himself,  by  counting 
r his  fingers  till  he  came  to  the  number  forty.  I was  at  a loss  to 
ajw  what  it  signified,  when  Jack  told  me  he  supposed  it  meant 
It  ars.  I agreed  to  it,  and  that,  in  addition  to  the  sum  mentioned, 
ould  give  each  of  his  two  wives  a looking  glass,  comb,  beads, 
a some  other  things.  The  next  thing  with  him  was  the  security. 

. Id  him  my  word  was  sufficient,  and  that  I had  no  other  security 
c;ive.  He  then  asked  Jack  in  what  manner  a Christian  took  an 
>si?  It  was  some  time  before  Jack  understood  the  question,  and 
3<  until  he  was  told  by  him  that  a Mahometan  swore  by  his  own 
o rd,  and  by  the  prophet.  Jack  then  said  to  him,  “ A Christian 
(pears  by  the  Bible,  and  that  oath  he  holds  inviolable.”  Jack  went 
o; to  compare  the  Bible  to  the  Alcoran.  As  no  Bible  was  to  be 
c ae  at,  I told  him  I could  make  oath  as  well  without  the  Bible  as 
« h it ; and  this  satisfying  him,  I then,  in  an  audible  voice,  called 
a Maker  to  witness,  that  as  soon  as  we  should  be  ransomed  in 


paddock’s  narrative. 


6s 

Swcarah,  1 would,  in  addition  to  what  the  consul  should  pay  foil 
yansom,  give  him  forty  dollars,  and  for  his  two  wives  two  small  1 1 
ing  glasses,  two  combs,  two  pair  of  small  scissors,  each  a large  bi| 
of  beads,  and  a knife  for  himself,  and  as  much  tobacco  as  he  cl 
smoke  all  the  w ay  back.  W1  icn  this  was  gone  through  with  jJ 
asked  Jack  if  he  believed  me.  l ie  told  him  our  God  was  the  s! 
as  his  God,  and  he  might  depend  on  my  oath  being  held  as  sa 
by  me,  as  his  own  oath  would  be  held  by  himself.  Thus  the  m; 
ended,  after  we  had  been  detained  about  it  for  a full  hour.  J 
med  then  went  to  the  mountaineers,  and  finished  the  bargain  fc 
all,  except  the  two  blacks,  for  they  would  not  part  with  them.  ] 
the  purchase  was  paid,  or  in  what,  we  never  could  find  out. 
hopes  of  us  all  were  revived  except  the  poor  blacks  ; for  then 
begged  all  the  rest  of  the  day,  but  to  no  effect.  The  looks  o i 
poor  fellows  were  so  dejected,  it  was  painful  to  behold  them,  Li 
the  revival  of  this  spark  of  hope  in  our  breasts,  our  thirst  and 
hunger  increased  ; we  got  some  water,  but  no  victuals  till  nigh® 
the  evening  I asked  the  chief  when  we  should  start  ? His  reply 
as  soon  as  we  should  be  able  to  walk,  which  would  be  in  four  or  |i 
days.  Here  I must  inform  my  readers  that  that  question  of  n 
and  the  answer  to  me,  were  in  and  through  Laura,  of  whom  I n 
use  as  an  interpreter  during  the  whole  time  we  were  together ; a 
so  it  must  be  understood  in  all  my  future  conversations  witl'i 
Arabs,  and  reports  of  their  sayings  to  me,  unless  some  other  pej« 
be  named  as  interpreter  for  me. 

As  our  situation  was  comfortable  in  comparison  to  the  suffcjS 
condition  we  had  lately  been  in,  we  now  could  be  more  cheerful,  i 
had  opportunities  to  look  about  us,  and  make  our  observations  n 
things..  At  night  we  had  about  half  as  much  boiled  barley  me<5 
we  needed,  and  wc  slept  sound  all  the  night.  From  the  momey 
the  shipwreck  to  the  present  instant,  from  nothing  we  had  take;: 
food  or  drink  did  we  ever  experience  any  harm  or  inconvcnie  ( 
That  very  pond- water,  though  as  foul  as  the  water  of  a mud  gu 
and  even  worse,  sat  well  at  our  stomachs,  as  also  did  the  raw  has 
taken  afterwards.  And  1 can  say  for  myself,  1 never  had  an 
pleasant  dream  during  the  whole  time  1 was  with  those  cruel  n 
sters. 

On  the  16th,  in  the  morning,  our  former  masters  appeared 
making  some  preparations  for  moving  off;  they  were  situated  a 
rods  south  of  us.  I,  with  Laura,  walked  over  to  them,  to  interc 
once  more  for  our  two  black  companions,  and  I assured  Allan 
who- was  with  them,  that  if  these  men  were  of  any  more  vahn 
their  masters  than  the  rest  of  us,  the  surplus  of  their  value  our  < 
sul  would  pay  for  them.  He  answered  plainly,  that  he  did  not 
lieve  me.  While  engaged  in  this  conversation,  we  were  sitting 
the  ground,  and  my  old  master  coming  to  me,  ordered  me  to  hau 
my  coat,  which  he  claimed  as  his  own,  saying  he  was  once  in  j 
session  of  it,  and  had  only  lent  it  to  me.  1 refused  to  give  it 
Ahamed  then  said  it  was  his,  and  they  disputed  it  warmly  for  a 
minutes,  my  old  master  alleging  that  he  sold  him  the  carcass  o 


paddock’s  narrative..  G9 

i[  that  ail  the  clothes  upon  it  belonged  to  himself,  while  Ahamed, 
dais  part,  claimed  the  clothes  as  an  appendage  to  the  body.  At 
a the  fellow  said  he  would  have  the  clothes  or  my  life,  and  at  that 
ament  he  sprung  upon  me,  got  hold  of  my  coat,  hauled  it  over  my 
ifld,  dragged  me  a few  paces,  and  drawing  his  dagger,  he  swore 
phis  own  beard,  and  by  the  prophet,  that  he  would  take  away  my 
i'l,  Laura,  understanding  all  that  he  said,  begged  me  to  give  up 
a coat,  or  he  would  kill  me.  My  mates  also  were  much  alarmed 
ojmy  account,  and  entreated  me  to  give  it  up  ; but  I persisted  in 
.1  refusal.  Upon  my  looking  up,  I saw  that  fellow  and  Ahamed 
t iding  face  to  face,  prepared  for  a battle  about  my  coat ; the  fel- 
of  s anger  was  wrought  up  to  so  high  a pitch,  that  he  foamed  hor- 
ny at  the  mouth.  1 was  sensible  of  danger,  yet  hoped  to  save 
ica  my  life  and  the  coat.  At  last  Ahamed  fell  upon  his  knees,  and 
aied  the  feet  of  his  antagonist ; upon  which  Laura  cried  out  to  me, 
is  all  over  ; you  are  safe  !”  Laura  informed  me  afterwards,  that 
; -never  a superior  humbles  himself  so  low  to  an  inferior  as  to  kiss 
iifeet,  his  demand  or  request  is  always  granted.  This  matter  thus 
; led,  the  seven  mountaineers  took  all  their  luggage,  and  the  black 
at,  and  walked  off  south-eastward.  The  poor  negroes  wept  bit- 
ty, and,  for  our  own  part,  we  were  sorely  afflicted  with  the  part- 
is;— we  never  saw  them  more. 

We  now  returned  to  our  lodgings,  where  we  got  some  boiled 
ini.  George’s  master,  it  seemed,  was  willing  he  should  be  with 
tvery  often,  and  Laura’s  master  turned  him  over  to  our  mess  ; he 
v;  the  owner  of  Jack  also,  but  die  little  two-sided  Jack  was  not 
wiling  to  keep  our  company  so  constantly.  He  and  Laura  had 

0 n in  the  habit  of  quarrelling  together,  and  1 prevailed  on  Laura 
jcmake  friends  with  him,  as  we  might  profit  from  it ; Jack  having 

1 onsiderably  perfect  knowledge  of  the  Arabic,  he  could,  if  he 
aid,  inform  us  from  time  time  of  the  intentions  of  the  Arabs  we 

:vre  with.  In  consequence  of  this  advice  of  mine,  they  got  on  bet- 
t<  terms,  but  were  never  so  friendly  together  as  I wished. 

Being  now  much  encouraged  in  regard  to  obtaining  our  ransom, 
a 1 fast  recruiting,  we  had  spirits,  as  well  as  leisure,  to  make  our 
oservations  upon  the  strange  beings  we  were  amongst.  I found 
j by  the  boys,  that  the  place  we  were  in  was  as  far  west  as  the 
fib  shepherds  could  ever  find  pasture  for  their  flocks,  and  also  as 
i:  south,  as  it  was  on  the  edge  of  the  desert ; I also  was  informed, 
t the  same  means,  that  they  had  been  only  a few  days  here  when 
v first  came  among  them.  The  number  of  their  tents,  according 
t the  best  of  my  remembrance,  was  ninety-seven,  averaging  about 
t;ht  persons  to  a tent,  and  thus  making  the  whole  population  of  the 
tbe  amount  to  seven  hundred  and  seventy-six.  This,  the  boys 
id  me,  was  the  largest  tribe  they  ever  had  met  with,  although  the 
itives  frequently  talked  of  a thousand  in  each  large  tribe,  and  five 
Inched  in  the  small  ones.  Among  the  tribe  we  were  in,  there  was 
wariety  of  colours,  from  a light  copper  colour  to  a complexion 
wy  dark,  and  almost  black  ; but  their  features  were  still  the  same, 
mrp  nosed,  and  raw  boned.  The  average  weight  of  these  Arabs 


70 


paddock’s  narrative. 


would  very  little  exceed  a hundred  pounds  each,  and  their  aver  \ 
height  was  about  five  feet  nine  or  ten  inches,.  They  were 
much  in  the  habit  of  sitting  or  squatting  upon  the  calf  of  the  leg,  I 
that  part  was  of  a more  considerable  size  than  the  rest  of  their  bod  !j 
The  women,  however,  showed  a much  better  leg,  as  well  as  a 
than  the  men  ; they,  generally,  were  but  a little  more  than  four 
high  ; their  breasts  were  monstrously  large,  and  their  immodest 
posure  of  them  was,  to  us,  the  more  disgusting,  on  account  of  is 
continual  abusiveness  we  experienced  from  them.  Their  inhum;  I 
ty  to  us  may  be  partly  accounted  for,  however,  from  the  degra  1 
condition  in  which  they  were  held  by  their  husbands. 

The  barley  which  we  found  growing  was  such  as  had  sprung  it 
spontaneously,  and  in  some  places  were  seen  patches  of  wild  o<| 
the  grass  thereabouts  was  very  scarce.  On  account  of  this  scar  j 
of  feed,  the  boys  expected  that  we  should  soon  remove  further  e . 
ward,  for  the  sake  of  finding  pasture  for  their  flocks,  which  Wi 
very  large.  To  this  tribe  belonged  thirty  camels,  fifty  fine  horn 
and  a thousand  sheep  and  goats ; the  chief  being  the  greatest  ] 
prietor  in  the  stock.  At  night,  when  the  flocks  are  brought  in,  :j 
singular  to  see  how  entirely  tamed  they  all  are.  The  women  r 
first  the  camels,  and  then  come  forward  the  sheep  and  lambs  ; ei 
parcel  of  sheep  stop  at  the  tent  they  belong  to,  before  which  i 
long  rope,  hauled  tight,  each  end  of  it  being  fastened  to  a stakt 
the  ground.  In  the  rope,  at  suitable  distances,  are  placed  bedi 
with  small  lines ; the  lambs  come  of  their  own  accord  to  the  rc 
when  the  woman  of  the  tent  separately  fastens  each  lamb  to ; 
becket,  and  drives  away,  at  a little  distance,  the  sheep,  which  all 
down ; the  lambs  also  lie  down,  and  remain  so  till  morning,  wlj 
the  woman  milks  the  sheep,  and  releases  the  lambs,  and  all 
driven  oft’  together.  In  the  course  of  the  day  the  lambs  suck  all  ( 
milk  which  their  dams  give.  As  to  the  camels,  they  are  mill  l 
night  and  morning  ; the  young  camel,  if  a young  one  there  is,  be  ; 
prevented,  to  the  utmost  of  the  keeper’s  power,  from  sucking. 

All  this  milk,  of  different  kinds,  is  poured  together  into  a sa  , 
that  is,  the  skin  of  a goat,  curiously  taken  off.  When  a suffici ! 
quantity  is  collected  for  churning,  say  half  a skin  full,  the  worn 
blows  the  skin  up  tight  with  her  breath,  like  a bladder,  and  ties ; 
up,  each  end  of  it  fast,  with  a small  string  ; it  is  then  fastened  to-  ill 
ridge  of  the  tent ; and  while  thus  suspended,  one  of  them,  most  co[ 
monly  a child,  stands  and  shakes  it  violently,  till  the  woman,  ju<  • 
ing  from  the  time  of  its  agitation,  thinks  the  milk  sufficiently  chui 
ed ; the  skin  is  then  taken  down,  and  the  butter-milk  poured  <f 
leaving  the  butter  adhering  to  the  skin  ; the  hole  being  large  enou. 
for  her  hand  and  arm  to  enter,  she,  with  her  fingers,  claws  it  o 
appearing  about  the  colour  of  her  arms,  and  puts  it  into  a bo\ 
This  finishes  the  process  of  their  butter-making ; it  is  never  work 
over  nor  salted,  nor  did  I ever  know  of  the  skin  being  washed 
edeansed.  Having  given  the  process,  and  the  colour  of  the  butt; 
I will  leave  my  readers  to  judge  of  the  smell  and  the  taste. 

Their  water  is  kept  in  the  same  kind  of  skin,  for  family  us 


eabdock’s  narrative* 


71 


v'ijn  a call  is  made  foi*  water,  the  woman  pours  out  from  the  skin  a 
uitityinto  a small  bowl,  and  whatever  is  left  after  the  person  or 
eons  have  done  drinking,  she  carefully  pours  back  again. 
Uj  smell  of  the  water  is  not,  however,  so  offensive  as  that  of  the  but- 
unor  of  quite  so  dark  a colour.  Any  one  may  form  a pretty  clear 
If  of  its  qualities,  from  the  filthiness  of  the  vessel  it  is  kept  in. 
'1  water  of  this  country  is  bad,  I mean  such  as  is  obtained  by 
lee  wandering  tribes  in  a dry  season.  At  the  time  we  came 
irjngst  this  tribe,  the  English  boys  informed  us  there  had  not  fallen 
i op  of  rain  in  more  than  two  months  ; that,  with  the  exception  of 
®je  small  bunches  of  green  barley,  what  little  food  their  flocks 
3 d collect,  was  dry  grass,  of  but  very  little  nourishment ; but  not« 
-(standing  this,  the  sheep  and  horses  were  in  excellent  plight, 
ugh  the  camels  appeared  lean,  and  some  of  them  were  sickly, 
bout  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  while  I was  sitting  with  Lau- 

1 it  some  little  distance  from  the  tents,  and  we  much  engaged  in 
orersation  respecting  the  country  we  were  in,  and  our  own  pre- 

2 situation,  and  our  prospects  as  to  the  future,  Ahamed  came  sud- 
ite.y  upon  us,  undiscovered  till  within  a few  paces  ; he  appeared  in 
j i haste  as  gave  us  alarm.  Instantly  he  fell  to  talking  earnestly 
fjji  Laura,  and  soon  finding  that  I was  the  subject  of  their  dis- 
D’se,  I could  not  wait  for  it  to  be  over,  but  interrupted  it  by  ask- 

Laura  about  v-hat  was  said.  “ He  has  been  asking,”  says 
*ra  to  me,  “ which  of  us  is  your  doctor,  and  I have  been  telling 
i;  that  there  was  no  doctor  belonging  to  your  ship ; that  is  what 
Tfhave  been  disputing  about.  He  says  every  ship  has  a doctor, 
■ I have  been  telling  him  that  a ship  with  only  a few  men  in  it,  like 
fcrs,  has  no  doctor,  and  that  that  duty  falls  on  the  captain  ; he  then 
ue  me  ask  you  if  you  are  a doctor;  I have  been  telling  him  you 
B?  not  one,  and  he  says  I am  a liar.”  To  this  little  warmth  be- 
wen  them  there  succeeded  a silence  for  a few  minutes,  when  Aha- 
q 1,  looking  me  full  in  the  face,  asked  me,  “ Are  you  a doctor  ?” 
lswered  him  I was  not — our  mutual  communication  of  ideas  be- 
r made  by  our  interpreter.  He  then  added,  “ this  dog  (Laura) 
ss  that  when  a ship  has  no  doctor,  the  captain  performs  that  duty.” 

. >ld  him,  in  reply,  that  there  was  some  truth  in  it,  for,  in  that  case, 
tfc  captain  was  furnished  with  medicines  put  up  by  a man  having 
It  kind  of  skill,  and  that  there  was  given  with  them  a book  to 
MW  how  they  were  to  be  applied,  but  that  our  doctor’s  box  was  de- 
coyed by  the  Arabs  on  the  beach.  Upon  this  he  inquired  about  the 
s s of  that  box,  its  contents,  and  other  particulars,  which  being  de- 
s ibed  to  him,  he  says,  “ It’s  true  ; the  mountaineers  told  me  of  those 
t ngs,  such  as  the  vials,  and  several  surgical  instruments,  wdiich  they 
hi  seen.  And  now,”  says  Ahamed,  “ one  of  my  wives  is  sick,  and 
1 m afraid  she  will  die  ; I love  her  much,  and  if  you  will  cure  her, 
a y thing  you  will  ask  of  me  shall  be  given  you.  In  reply  to  that,  I 
i d him  the  loss  of  our  medicines  and  book  rendered  it  impossible 
i me  to  assist  her;  but  he  urged  me  to  try;  and  when  I found 
tire  was  no  way  for  me  to  turn,  I reluctantly  consented  to  make 
t attempt.  No  sooner  had  I done  it,  than  he  starts  upon  his  feet, 
d says  to  me,  Bomar  tibbils, — go  doctor. 


72 


paddock’s  narrative. 

This  new  name  did  not  relish  with  me  very  well,  having  ahva 
great  aversion  to  a quack,  and  now  about  to  assume  the  characfi 
one.  We  marched  off  to  his  tent,  where  lay  an  elderly  won- 
upon  a piece  of  an  old  tent,  her  body  covered  with  a piece  of 
of  the  same  kind  with  that  she  lay  upon.  He  told  her  I was  ci . 
to  cure  her.  I looked  at  her  awhile,  and  found  she  had  a vio 
cough,  and  raised  matter  considerably.  I then  told  Ahamed  I . 
very  sorry  her  case  required  such  medicines  as  it  was  out  of 
power  to  give  her,  having  been  wholly  deprived  of  them  in  the  n i 
ner  aforementioned.  He  answers,  “ You  must  recommend  so 
thing,  and  I know  you  can.”  I now  considered  myself  in  a very  i 
pleasant  situation,  and  concluded  that,  finding  no  chance  for  bi 
excused,  I must  play  the  quack  ; accordingly  I recommended 
feet  to  be  put  into  warm  water  for  half  an  hour  in  the  evening, 
that  she  should  be  wrapped  up  warm,  and  kept  so  all  the  night, 
found  that  this  prescription  of  mine  met  with  the  full  confidenc  i 
the  chief,  and  also  of  his  other  lady,  who  had  paid  particular  at  i 
tion  to  all  our  conversation ; and  having  now,  in  the  capacity  ; 
quack,  performed  the  task  of  the  first  visit,  I backed  out  of  the  t ! 
telling  Laura  I hoped  it  would  be  my  last. 

We  now  joined  the  company  of  our  fellow-sufferers,  and  str 
hard  to  get  some  v7ater,  of  which  there  was  but  very  little  among 
tribe.  That  circumstance,  namely,  the  extreme  scarcity  of  w; 
here,  led  our  boys  to  think  we  should  soon  remove  our  quarters  i 
fact,  it  was  full  time  to  do  it,  for  all  the  dry  grass  was  eaten  by 
flocks  already.  Upon  the  approach  of  the  night  ensuing,  the  flos 
were  brought  up  as  usual,  when  the  camels  were  tied  up  close  ] 
prevent  their  rambling  ; and  this  indicated  something  like  a rei  - 
val  in  contemplation.  Though  our  appetites  had  increased,  i 
supper  this  evening  was  uncommonly  small,  and  of  water  we  got  il 
very  little.  The  boys  observed  to  us,  it  would  not  be  long  bef : 
our  sufferings  for  water  would  be  less  ; saying  that  they  themsel ; 
could  now  do  very  well  with  less  than  half  the  quantity  required  , 
(hem  previously  to  the  time  of  their  falling  in  with  the  Arabs.  1 - 
truth  of  what  the  boys  said  was  daily  confirmed,  more  and  more, ) 
my  own  experience ; and  this  gradual  decrease  of  our  craving 
water  was  owing  chiefly,  I believe,  to  these  two  causes,  first,  < : 
becoming  lean-fleshed,  and  secondly , our  entire  abstinence  from  sa : 
our  flesh  was  burthensome  to  us  in  this  hot  climate,  and  at  the  sa 
time  it  increased  our  thirst ; as  to  salt,  the  Arabs  had  none,  nor  d 
they  crave  it. 

This  evening  the  boy  Jack  paid  us  a short  visit,  when  Laura  t 
vised  him  to  be  more  with  us,  and  not  keep  company  so  much  w 
the  Arabs.  To  this  Jack  replied,  he  could  have  as  much  meal  as 
wanted  while  with  them,  and  that  he,  Laura,  was  always  quarrelli 
whenever  he  was  with  him.  Laura  now  saw  the  necessity  of  cou 
ing  his  friendship.  Whenever  they  two  talked  together  about  Lc 
don,  Jack  used  to  reproach  his  own  mother  there,  telling  Laura  fi 
she  was  a bad  woman,  and  he  did  not  wish  ever  to  see  her  agai 
All  this  I thought  made  against  us,  as  it.  gave  room  to  mistrust  Ja 


paddock’s  narrative. 


73 


dicing  inclined  to  the  side  of  the  Arabs  ; I therefore  urged  upon 
h i of  them  the  necessity  of  their  harmonizing  together  for  our 
rferal  safety  and  welfare. 

'his  night  was,  as  usual,  a cold  one  ; we,  however,  slept  well,  till 
ked  at  dawn  of  day  by  the  noise  of  the  Arabs  at  their  prayers.  On 
W 17th,  at  about  sunrise,  their  horses  were  all  brought  up,  bridled, 
a saddled.  Upon  viewing  these  horses,  1 thought  it  out  of  the  power 
ifhe  painter  to  flatter  them,  with  even  his  flnest  colours.  Our 
iikfast  was  prepared  sooner  than  had  been  usual,  and  the  sheep, 
h camels,  and  the  goats,  were  milked.  This  wras  a work  that  had 
;eerally  been  done  at  10  o’clock,  about  which  time  we  had  had 
i,  breakfast,  and  our  supper  at  dark,  that  is  to  say,  two  meals  only 
me  twenty-four  hours.  When  all  this  was  done,  our  chief  an- 
c need  his  determination  to  remove  their  quarters;  upon  hearing 
h declaration,  the  women  struck  the  tents,  and  began  to  load 
i camels  with  their  effects,  which  consisted  of  the  stakes  of  the 
e , and  the  lines  for  securing  the  lower  part  of  it  to  the  ground,  the 
)tj!S  which  suspended  the  top,  two  wooden  bowls,  two  or  three 
k s for  keeping  their  milk  and  their  water  in,  one  or  two  earthen 
ici  to  boil  their  meal  in,  a sack  to  keep  their  barley  in,  the  stones  to 
i d their  grain  with,  and,  lastly , the  stone  for  driving  into  the 
rind  the  stakes  that  secured  the  tent.  The  old  and  decrepit,  and 
h small  children,  completed  the  load  ; half  an  hour  being  about  the 
pe  of  time  taken  up  by  this  preparation.  The  men,  all  this  while 
'/i e idle  spectators  of  the  work  which  was  going  on  ; and  that  op- 
c.unity  Ahamed  took  to  inform  me  that  his  wife  was  much  better, 
r that  I must  visit  her  often.  As  soon  as  the  whole  was  com- 
iled,  and  the  word  given,  the  horsemen  mounted  their  noble  ani- 
as,  and  we  all,  in  a body,  moved  off  eastward. 

— 

CHAP.  VII. 

lival  of  (he  (ribe  at  their  new  quarters — A smoking  bout — Description  of  their  pipes, 
eir  manner  of  smoking,  and  their  custom  of  story  telling — The  commission  of  a 
urder,  by  an  Arab,  upon  the  body  of  his  wife — His  trial  for  it,  and  the  penalty  he 
^ffered — His  re-marriage — The  wedding  scene — A feat  of  horsemanship — Descrip- 
)n  of  the  horses,  their  trappings,  and  the  dexterity  of  the  horsemen — The  form  and 
ape  of  an  Arabian  horse  shoe — Their  shooting  at  a mark — Our  clouded  prospects 
specting  our  ransom — Our  employ  at  needle  work— Our  journey  to  Ahtimed’s 
ain  field — Our  arrival  at  the  tents  of  another  tribe  of  Arabs — Their  manner  of  re- 
iving strangers — Their  customary  salutations — Their  boastful  pride — How  they 
lucate  their  boys — Their  utter  coutempt  of  their  females — Their  regular  prayers— 
he  form  of  prayer  commonly  used  by  Jack’s  mistress — The  inestimable  blessing  of 
good  appetite — The  reproachful  and  contemptuous  remarks  of  the  Arabs  between 
temselves,  upon  the  Christian  nations, 

n the  progress  of  our  travel  we  soon  discovered  that  the  dry 
s;  ss,  which  was  only  here  and  there  in  small  spots,  had  begun  to 
foear  better.  We,  who  were  not  able  to  walk  with  half  their  speed, 
k astern ; we  were  soon  noticed,  and  ordered  to  keep  up  with 
tlm.  Many  epithets  of  a disagreeable  sort  were  liberally  bestow- 

10 


74 


paddock’s  narrative. 


ed  upon  us,  particularly  by  the  women.  Had  we  been  without  interj:  \ 
ters,  we  should  have  been  ignorant  of  the  meaning  of  the  curses  of  | 
tongue  so  bountifully  heaped  upon  us  by  those  furies  : in  fact,  tl  ij 
were  the  only  breed  of  women  I ever  heard  of  so  entirely  destitute  |' 
any  degree  of  commiseration  for  the  distressed.  We,  however,  w . 
died  along  in  the  rear,  tolerably  well,  as  I thought,  considering  l| 
decrepit  condition  we  were  in.  After  being  for  two  or  three  ho 
on  this  march,  in  an  east-north-east  course,  our  horsemen  started ; 
in  full  speed,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight.  At  about  4 o’clock 
arrived  at  the  place  designated  for  our  abode,  having  removed  ah 
twelve  miles  from  our  former  quarters.  Previously  to  our  anr 
those  horsemen  had  dug  out  an  old  well,  of  about  eight  feet  in  dej 
which  was  flowing  in,  though  slowly,  with  bad  wrnter.  Their  hoi 
had  all  drank  their  fill ; the  unloaded  camels  were  the  next  in  coi 
to  be  served  ; while  we,  poor  Christian  dogs,  were  kept  without  wa 
except  some  little  which  our  English  boys  robbed  the  camels 
This  water  was  all  passed  up  in  wooden  bowls,  one  man  being 
the  bottom,  another  half  way  up,  and  a third  emptied  the  water  i 
a large  bowl  for  the  camels  to  drink  out  of.  It  appeared  as  if 
camels  could  never  have  had  enough ; I am  sure  a barrel  to  eacl 
a moderate  estimate  of  the  quantity  of  water  which  they  then  ti 
down  ; the  sheep  and  the  goats  were  soon  supplied. 

By  the  time  this  business  of  watering  was  gone  through  with,! 
we,  who  of  course  were  the  last,  had  had  our  fill,  it  was  near  ni< 
The  tents  being  now  all  erected,  and  the  household  furniture  arra 
ed,  and  preparations  for  supper  going  on,  the  Arabs  seemed  al 
be  in  good  spirits,  and  formed  a circle  for  smoking  the  pipe.  ( 
pipe  answered  for  the  whole  company,  which  consisted  of  about  s 
ty  persons,  each  of  them  facing  the  centre  of  the  circle  ; this  so< 
meeting  lasted  from  two  to  three  hours.  The  pipe-bowl  was  m;: 
of  brass,  the  bowl  about  the  size  of  an  English  clay-pipe,  the  sli 
about  eight  inches  long,  and  of  wood  ; that  kind  of  wood  grows  i 
the  fertile  parts  of  their  country,  and  their  pipe  stem  is  the  groij 
of  only  one  year,  when  it  is  about  the  size  of  our  common  pipe  sti, 
and  the  pith  so  soft  that  a wire  may  be  forced  through  it  with  es. 
This  smoking-bout  commences  with  the  chief,  who,  having  filled  jj 
pipe,  draws  and  puffs  twice,  then  draws  his  mouth  full  of  smoke  I 
puff  off  at  his  leisure,  and,  over  his  left  arm,  reaches  the  pipe  to  > 
next  neighbour,  who  draws  and  puffs  in  his  turn,  and  so  goes  ror! 
the  pipe,  in  a complete  rotation,  through  the  whole  company.  W!  1 
the  tobacco  in  the  pipe  is  consumed,  he  in  whose  hands  the  pipe  tl  i 

is,  fills  it  again,  and  thus,  for  hours  together,  it  goes  on,  with  ade 
rable  decorum. 

Their  story  telling  proceeds  as  regularly  as  the  pipe.  Some  c: 
of  them  is  called  upon  to  tell  a story,  and  if  a stranger  be  in  i 
company,  his  stoi’y  comes  first ; he  relates  such  things  as  he  has  set 
or  heard"  in  other  parts,  which  he  thinks  interesting  to  the  compai 
who  all  sit  silent  till  he  has  done,  and  then,  if  any  one  (as  any  c| 
who  pleases  may)  should  ask  him  to  elucidate  or  explain  any  parti 

it,  his  request  is  reqdily  complied  with.  After  him,  his  next  nei< 


paddock’s  narrative.  75 

cr  on  the  left  commences,  and  goes  on  with  his  story,  and  so  they 
(round  until  they  are  called  off  to  supper.  After  supper,  their 
payers  follow.  Thus  end  the  evenings  of  these  barbarians,  though 
c before  they  have  gone  through  a round  of  scolding  at  their  wives, 
eh  are  treated  by  them  as  slaves,  and  I have  frequently  thought, 
<!se  than  they  themselves  would  treat  Mahometan  negro  slaves, 
mot  quite  so  ill  as  they  use  those  they  call  Christian  dogs,  who 
rheld  by  them  in  the  greatest  contempt  of  all. 
fter  a spare  supper,  our  chief  informed  us  we  had  eat  too  much; 
his  barley  was  nearly  spent,  and  he  must  either  go  or  send  for  a 
•:  the  next  day.  I asked  him  where  he  procured  his  supply  ? his 
• answer  was,  “ I bought  it.”  I found,  whenever  I made  inqui- 
f any  of  them  to  that  effect,  they  were  careful  to  keep  us  ignor- 
ofthe  geography  of  their  country.  They  seemed  surprised  that 
(should  know  what  course  would  carry  us  to  Swearah.  Laura 
everd  to  me,  that  since  we  had  been  among  them  he  had  often 
pd  them  say,  “ we  could  do  better  with  the  dogs  if  Rias  were  out 
be  way,  as  that  fellow  seems  to  know  something  of  our  country, 
phhe  must  have  learnt  when  he  was  in  Swearah.” 
ihad  paid  strict  attention  to  all  I could  gather  from  Laura,  and  I 

0 inued  to  persuade  him  to  make  use  of  every  opportunity  to  gain 
irmation  respecting  our  destiny.  He  had  his  fears  that  we  were 
©to  be  carried  to  Mogadore  for  our  ransom  ; and  what  occasioned 
me  fears,  he  had  caught  several  expressions  unfavourable  to  it  in 
■r  conversation.  Unfortunately  for  us  all,  we  could  put  no  con- 
dice  in  Jack,  and  yet  sometimes  wre  could  gather  from  him  a lit- 
r nformation,  which  he  seemed  to  drop  rather  by  accident  than 
cgn.  On  the  18th,  in  the  morning,  there  appeared  an  uncommon 
ti  in  the  tribe.  The  horses  were  brought  up,  and  rigged  out  in 
tilt  style  : all  was  glee,  male  and  female  running  from  tent  to  tent ; 
r English  boys  were  in  as  great  surprise  as  ourselves.  For  the 
ill  of  information,  Laura  and  George  went  after  Jack,  who  of 
fee  was  knowing  to  the  cause  of  this  great  muster.  Jack  was 
r to  be  found  then,  but  soon  after  the  little  villain  came,  and  in- 
olied  us  there  was  to  be  a wedding  that  day  : this  quieted  our 
ids.  Upon  this  lime  he  and  Laura  fell  into  familiar  discourse 
K-veen  themselves  as  follows. 

ack.  You,  Laura,  know  Afdalla,  that  fellow  that  murdered  his 
vjj  about  two  weeks  ago. 

,aura.  O yes,  I remember  all  about  it. 

ack.  Well,  he  is  going  to  marry  that  short,  thick,  yellow  girl,  that 

1 s in  that  tent  there,  you  know  who  I mean. 

Mura.  O yes,  I know  her. 

"his  conversation  between  the  two  boys,  excited  in  mea  curiosi- 
yo  know  the  story  of  that  murder,  and  Laura  related  it  to  me. 

‘ bout  two  weeks  ago,”  said  Laura  to  me,  “ this  fellow  went  into 
o tent,  and  asked  his  wife  where  his  knife  was.  She  told  him  she 
x:  lent  it  to  such  a one,  naming  a man  belonging  to  the  tribe.  Do 
not  know,  he  said,  that  you  have  no  business  to  meddle  with 
u thing  belonging  tome?  She  acknowledged  she  had  not;  that 


7b 


paddock’s  narrative. 

she  was  sorry  if  it  had  displeased  him,  and  would  go  immedia 
and  fetch  the  knife  back.  He  made  no  other  reply  to  her  that  j! 
saying,  I will  see  if  I can’t  have  a wife  who  will  obey  my  comm; 
better ; I always  told  you  not  to  meddle  with  any  thing  of  ni 
Having  a club  in  his  hand,  he  struck  her  upon  the  breast ; she 
and  he  continued  to  maul  her  as  long  as  there  was  any  breath  in  i; 
body.  Neither  man  nor  woman  went  near  them,  although  her  < > 
and  screams  were  heard  through  the  whole  tribe.  That  evenii 
continued  Laura,  “ we  went  to  the  funeral,  and  observed  what  ji 
done  there.  The  women  measured  her  length,  her  breadth  aci 
her  arms,  and  her  whole  thickness,  with  as  much  exactness  as 
could,  and  then  they  dug  a grave  to  fit  her,  digging  it  no  deeper  I 
the  measure  of  her  breadth,  and  put  her  in  sideways,  all  nail 
then,  the  women  standing  upon  the  body,  trode  it  down  with  t;i 
feet,  till  the  upper  part  of  it  was  just  level  with  the  surface  oj'i 
earth  ; after  which,  they  all  fell  to  gathering  stones  to  cover  I 
body  with,  so  as  to  prevent  its  being  removed  by  the  wild  beast 
I asked  Laura  what  followed  in  regard  to  the  murderer.  The 
count  he  gave  me  was  this  : “ The  next  day  after  the  murder 
committed,  the  chief  assembled  all  the  principal  men  of  the  trib 
examine  into  the  case.  The  murderer  was  called  before  the  cou 
and  heard  in  his  own  defence  ; he  voluntarily  related  the  fact, 
they  were,  and  was  then  dismissed  for  a few  minutes.  Upon 
the  chief,  who  always  speaks  first  in  such  cases,  gave  his  opin 
Afdallah,  says  Ahamed  to  his  counsellors,  has  not  acted  agree: 
to  the  law  ; he  should  first  have  complained  to  me  of  the  disob 
ence  of  his  wife,  and  if  she  should  persist  therein,  he  would  i 
have  been  at  liberty  to  punish  her  according  to  his  pleasure, 
breaking  the  law  in  not  making  his  complaint  beforehand  to  me 
is  worthy  of  punishment ; wherefore,  my  sentence  is,  that  he  be  fi 
four  sheep,  seeing  his  flock  is  small,  and  that  those  sheep  be  dr 
ed  for  our  supper  to-night.”  Laura  added,  “ the  murderer  was , 
for,  his  sentence  was  pronounced,  and  he,  without  uttering  a wi 
had  his  flock  brought  up,  killed  the  four  sheep,  and  the  company 
them — and  we,  you  know,”  added  he,  addressing  himself  to  J; 
“got  the  heads.”  After  that  Laura  had  gone  through  with  his  i 
ry,  I desired  him  to  look  out  for  the  bride  and  the  bridegroom.  | 
went  to  the  place  where  the  tribe  was  assembled,  a few  rods  scj! 
of  our  tent,  where  he  found  the  women  preparing  the  bride  for 
nuptials  : and  soon  after  they  all  made  their  appearance.  We  t| 
walked  towards  the  crowd,  taking  a circuit  round  their  rear,  ful ; 
nigh  them  as  it  was  prudent  for  us  to  approach.  The  couple  si 
ped,  fronting  a man  who  officiated  in  the  capacity  of  a priest;! 
read  over  to  them  a passage  engraven  on  a board,  taken  origin;;) 
from  the  Alcoran,  and  joined  their  hands,  using  a ceremony  of  wolji 
that  we  could  not  distinctly  hear,  but  which  pronounced  them  hush;'; 
and  wife.  A tent  had  been  previously  prepared  by  the  bridegro< 
on  it  was  displayed  a white  flag  or  fly  ; he  took  his  bride,  who  h 
been  blindfolded  by  the  priest  with  a piece  of  cloth  tied  over  herey 
led  her  to  his  tent,  set  her  down  on  a mat.  and  said  to  her,  “ 1 


7? 


paddock’s  narrative. 

ir«a|  home.”  Then  he  left  her,  and  returned  to  the  place  where 
Mceremony  was  performed,  and  had  a white  cloth,  in  the  form  of 
irban,  tied  round  his  head ; after  which  he  joined  with  the  com- 
ay, in  their  singing,  shouting,  and  firing  of  guns  ; most  of  the 
o,pany  taking  part  in  this  merriment.  When  night  came,  the 
lie  company  went  to  his  tent,  but  none  of  them  entered  it,  not 
vi  himself;  instead  of  which,  they  formed  in  a circle  in  the  front 
f j,  where  was  prepared  a great  feast,  consisting  of  boiled  meal 
a milk,  along  with  several  sheep,  cooked  and  eaten  without  spice 
r alt.  Their  feasting  continued  till  after  midnight,  when  the  com- 
ay having  retired,  the  bridegroom  visits  his  spouse,  takes  off  her 
fid,  shows  himself  to  her  by  the  light  of  the  fire,  to  satisfy  her  that 
ime  is  no  mistake  as  to  the  identity  of  his  person,  and  then  blinds 
ej  again,  and  retires.  She  continues  in  this  condition  of  utter 
akness  for  the  term  of  one  week.  During  the  whole  of  this  week, 
fir  the  first  day,  all  the  women  that  choose  it  visit  her ; one  of 
ale  number  is  appointed  to  cook  the  victuals,  and  perform  all  the 
hr  domestic  duties,  until  the  spouse  is  brought  out  to  the  light  of 
m when  she  beholds,  as  her  husband,  a capricious  vagabond,  and 
lody  monster,  for  the  least  deviation  from  whose  mandate  she  is 
lie  to  suffer  death.  Assuredly  the  American  fair  will  not  envy 
ghappiness  ! 

he  next  day  after  this  marriage,  the  horses  were  all  brought  up 

! n,  and  there  was  exhibited  the  master  piece  of  horsemanship 
: I ever  saw.  There  w*ere  about  forty  of  those  animals,  the  most 
itiful  that  can  be  described,  of  full  size,  the  most  part  grey,  some 
Iter  sorrel  or  bay,  all  in  the  state  of  nature,  their  saddles  of  the 
ubian  make,  and  superior  to  all  others,  (being  so  high  before  and 
icind,  and  so  well  secured  by  strong  girths,  that  the  rider  is.  never 
manger  of  failing  off,)  the  bridles  of  such  a construction  as  brings 
hhorse  under  so  complete  command,  that  the  rider  can  either  stop 
iii  instantly  or  break  his  jaw,  the  stirrups  after  the  European  kind, 
fey  mounted  their  horses  thus  equipped,  formed  themselves  into 
boons,  each  man  with  his  musket  in  his  hand.  Andmow  their 
e begins  : from  before  the  tent  of  the  bridegroom  they  start  off  on 
i allop,  holding  the  bridle  in  the  left  hand,  and  their  musket  be- 
v en  the  thumb  and  the  two  fore  fingers  of  the  right ; by  the  potver 
ffhese  fingers  and  the  thumb,  the  musket  is  so  swiftly  whirled 
end  that  a spectator  would  be  at  a loss  to  determine  whether  it 
vre  a gun,  a staff,  or  whatever  else.  While  the  horses  are  in  full 
'fop,  on  the  word  stop,  which  is  so  instantly  and  simultaneously 
j yed,  that  it  is  not  uncommon  for  the  horse  and  his  rider  to  be 
||vn  in  the  sand  together, — at  the  word  stop,  each  of  the  horsemen 
fows  up  his  gun  into  the  air,  and  catching  it  again  in  such  a man- 
a,  that  his  thumb  and  the  fore  finger  are  upon  the  trigger,  he  fires 
itff  in  the  air,  and  all  their  guns,  thus  fired  together,  make  but  one 
r<;  ort.  This  dexterous  feat  I beheld  with  astonishment ; it  really 
hmed  too  much  for  any  of  the  humankind,  with  the  aid  of  brutes, 
toerform.  Our  English  boys  told  me  that  this  kind  of  amusement 
vj  very  common  there. 


paddock’s  narrative. 


i o 

In  the  first  stage  of  the  exhibition  that  has  now  been  related,  i 
man  was  down,  together  with  his  horse ; the  stirrups  were  so  sj 
that  one  of  his  legs  was  clear  of  the  horse,  which,  by  means  o, 
spurring  him  with  one  foot,  arose  with  the  rider.  The  fellow , 
pearing  much  mortified  at  the  accident,  returned  to  the  tent, 
rode  round  the  several  tents,  apparently  angry  with  his  poor  b 
which,  as  we  thought,  was  not  at  all  to  blame.  The  boys  said  J 
never  knew  of  a man  dismounting  in  a case  of  this  kind  ; that  J 
did  so  he  would  be  considered  by  his  companions  as  unwortl 
an  equal  rank  with  them,  and  of  course  would  fall  into  disgrj 
They  kept  it  up,  riding  and  firing  in  this  way  for  more  than  ha 
hour.  Their  poor  horses  fared  hard,  so  deep  did  the  spurs  cut  i j 
sides,  as  to  make  the  blood  flow  pretty  copiously.  The  wet 
being  very  hot,  the  sweat  ran  down  their  legs,  and  at  the  sj 
time  these  sons  of  Ishmael  showed  some  signs  of  uncomi 
warmth  themselves.  At  length  their  horses  were  unrigged,  i 
sent  out  to  feed  in  this  dry  and  barren  ground,  where,  only  in  s 
patches,  could  be  found  even  so  much  as  dry  grass  ; after  all,  j 
were  not  very  lean  of  flesh. 

After  the  horses  were  gone,  a horse  shoe  was  picked  up,  wlj 
upon  examining  it,  I found  different  from  anything  of  the  kind  1 
ever  seen.  I can  give  no  better  description  of  it  than  the  foliov 
one.  Set  the  horse’s  foot  upon  a plate  of  thick  sheet-iron,  i 
which  draw  a mark  round  the  hoof,  cut  the  iron  to  the  mark,  pi  : 
in  it  small  nail  holes  near  the  edge,  and  cut  out  from  the  middj 
round  piece,  about  the  size  of  an  English  shilling — and  then 
will  have  an  Arabian  horse  shoe.  These  people,  that  is  to  say 
void  Arabs,  keep  their  horses  shod  only  when  they  are  about  g| 
a long  journey  over  rocky  mountains. 

Soon  after  they  had  recovered  from  the  fatigue  of  riding,  they 3 
took  themselves  to  another  of  their  amusements,  which  was  firing  j 
mark:  them'ark  wasa  feather, stuck  onaheapof  sand, and  raisedaf  i 
its  level  about  two  feet ; their  distance  about  forty  yards.  So  ex  j 
were  they,  that  three  out  of  four  hit  the  feather  with  a single  f i 
This,  and  their  other  amusements,  such  as  singing,  leaping,  anc  \ 
forth,  finished  the  day.  During  this  time  we  peeped  into  the  tl 
.and  saw  the  recently  married  fair  one  sitting  on  a mat,  blindfold,  i 
much  engaged  in  conversation  with  a dozen,  or  more,  of  these  i 
serable  wretches  of  her  sex  : and  while  we  were  making  among 
selves  some  observations  upon  this  custom,  stupid  as  it  appear© 
ns,  we  got,  from  the  greatest  part  of  them,  a volley  of  curses  ; L 
ra  gave  us  the  English  of  them,  but  they  were  too  vulgar  and  smi 
to  relate  here. 

On  the  19th.  early  in  the  morning,  Ahamed  started  off  eas&w; I 
on  his  camel,  and  with  his  sack,  and  on  the  21st,  at  evening,  he 
turned,  with  eight  or  ten  bushels  of  as  fine  fresh  looking  barley  ;j 
ever  saw.  He  appeared  very  petulant,  at  which  we  were  much  J 
easy,  fearing  there  was  something  amiss  that  might  turn  to  our  t| 
injury.  As  soon  as  things  were  a little  arranged  in  and  about  Ji 
tent,,  the  neighbours  assembled,  and  soon  commenced  a smokf 


paddock’s  narrative. 


79 


w;  in  their  company  was  boy  Jack,  from  whom  we  could  not  cx- 
c much  information  of  what  they  said : in  fact,  he  was  soon 
kp.  Laura  promised  me  to  draw  near  them,  and  learn,  if  possi- 
; he  subjects  of  their  conversation.  As  soon  as  he  came  among 
1 they  ordered  him  off,  and  that  was  enough  to  satisfy  us  that 
n was  some  mischief  brewing.  He  laid  down,  however,  and 
Bed  sleep,  and  by  this  means  he  learnt  a part  of  their  conversa- 
>r  which  went  to  show  that  he,  Ahamed,  had  seen  several  men, 
t from  Swearah  and  from  Elie,  who  informed  him  of  the  plague 
j g in  both  those  places,  but  more  in  Elie  than  at  Swearah  ; and 
dieved,  as  he  then  said,  that  these  dogs  would  bring  as  much, 
ore,  in  Elie,  than  any  where  else,  and  thought,  from  what  he  had 
al,  and  had  seen  himself,  that  consul  Gwin  had  no  more  money. 
tlJreport  of  this  conversation,  though  Laura  could  give  it  only  by 
evmeal,  was  truly  grievous  to  us.  I told  Laura  the  less  he  said 
£:h  bad  news  to  the  crew  the  better ; that  if  he  were  talkative, 
ould  be  the  more  likely  to  be  suspected,  and  that  his  best  way 
nl  be  to  store  up  all  he  could  learn,  for  me  and  himself,  so  that 
ight  be  always  ready  to  refute  any  objections  that  Ahamed 
gt  advance  against  our  obtaining  our  freedom  or  ransom. 

C the  morning  of  the  next,  namely,  the  22d,  as  Ahamed  appear- 
ilerably  good  natured,  I ventured  to  ask  him  if  he  had  a good 
ney  for  the  barley,  and  of  the  news  from  that  quarter.  He 
e:ed  a little  reserved  for  some  time,  but  at  length  became  some- 
n talkative,  though  he  said  nothing  in  answer  to  my  questions, 
dal  him  we  had  now  been  with  them  eight  dajrs,  and  were  so  far 
e ited  as  to  be  able  to  travel  a little,  and  thought  it  would  be  for 
5 iterest  to  carry  us  to  Swearah  ; that  1 was  very  anxious  to  sec 
profilers  there.  He  heard  me  with  attention,  and  calling  for 
_.c,  who  was  near  at  hand,  he  bade  him  ask  me  if  I remembered 
yromise  to  himself.  I answered  him  I never  forgot  a promise  so 
cidly  given.  He  then  ordered  me  to  repeat  it,  which  I did. 

I at  is  right,”  he  said,  “ and  don’t  you  forget  it.”  While  I was 
riving  my  solicitations  to  him  to  carry  us  on,  he,  pointing  to 
ala,  said  to  him,  “ There  is  one  of  your  crew  not  many  days’ 
ajh  from  here,  (at  the  same  time  pointing  south-easterly,)  and  I am 
atrmined  to  go  and  buy  him,  so  as  to  clear  the  country  of  all  you  ' 
! dan  dogs  at  once,  and,  if  I find  there  will  be  none  to  ransom 
it  I will  cut  your  throats.”  1 replied  to  this,  that  if  he  would 
aifir  us  to  any  place  where  Christians  reside,  and  should  fail  of 
itpg  full  compensation  for  all  his  trouble  and  expenses,  and  a 
ttjl  profit  besides,  I would  be  willing  to  suffer  instant  death.  We 
b d together  a long  time  upon  this  subject,  and  I made  him  all 
eiromises  that  it  was  prudent  for  me  to  make,  and  then  the  old 
■ left  us,  and  joined  his  own  people  again. 

'ter  he  was  gone,  we  tried  to  get  something  out  of  Jack,  who 
aloath  to  say  much,  but  went  so  far  as  to  tell  us,  that,  from  what 
le  ad  heard  them  say,  we  might  expect  some  change  in  our  condi- 
osoon.  This  was  a very  unpleasant  day  to  us  all,  fearful  as  we 
'f  that  we  should  not  be  sent  to  Mogadore, 


80 


paddock’s  narrative. 


On  the  morning  of  the  23d,  Ahamed,  and  with  him  half  a dozen 
the  tribe,  came  to  our  place  of  residence,  and  brought  along  abc 
two  yards  of  red  flannel,  and  inquired  if  any  one  of  us  was  a tailo 
adding,  we  were  to  march  on  the  next  morning,  and  must  make  Ja 
some  clothes.  Overjoyed  by  that  piece  of  information,  we,  by  mea 
of  sending  Jack  for  them  among  the  tribe,  were  furnished  with  sc 
sors,  thread,  and  needles, — not  indeed  equal  to  what  are  used 
our  tailors’  shops ; the  thread  was  too  large  for  the  needle,  but  1 
singling  it  we  made  out  with  our  sewing,  though  but  badly.  In 
few  hours,  however,  Jack  was  rigged  up  with  a red  jacket  and  tro 
sers  ; but,  unexpectedly  to  us,  the  little  fellow  despised  them,  a: 
wftuld  rather  have  had  his  old  rags  again.  The  time  now  hung  ve 
heavy  on  us  all,  and  we  were  wishing  for  to-morrow.  Towar 
night  we  found  out,  for  the  first  time,  to  whom  in  reality  we  severi 
ly  belonged,  and  also  discovered  by  Jack  that  we  had  often  be 
bought  and  sold  among  them.  As  hitherto  they  had  had  no  labc 
for  us  to  perform,  they  had  thought  it  immaterial  whether  we  shop 
know  or  not,  how  we  were  disposed  of  among  themselves,  or  whoj 
them  in  particular  were  our  owners.  It  now  appeared  that  we  eig; 
together  with  the  three  English  boys,  were  owned  by  about  twen 
of  these  Arabs  ; and  as  to  myself,  I perceived  I was  in  the  hands 
the  most  unfeeling  vagabond  in  the  whole  tribe. 

George,  who  had  been  occupied  for  several  days  past  in  keepi 
his  master’s  herds  and  flocks,  came  to  us  this  evening,  and  told  us  1 
master  had  been  uncommonly  good  to  him  for  the  last  day  or  tw 
and  now,  says  he,  I am  to  have  as  much  meal  for  to-morrow  as  I c 
eat.  We  informed  him  that  we  were  to  march  off  for  some  place 
other  the  next  morning.  That,  said  he,  is  a mistake,  for  my  mast 
told  me  you  were  to  remain  here  several  days,  and  that  when  y 
go,  I shall  go  too.  Poor  George,  however,  was  left  behind.  Til 
next  morning,  to  wit,  the  24th,  Ahamed  told  us  we  were  to  travels 
to  his  field  of  grain,  where  he  should  be  with  us  in  a week’s  time.  (i 
we  went,  and  the  only  object  we  regretted  parting  with,  was  hopeleW 
George  ; him  I pitied  from  my  heart. 

We  were  already  fancying  ourselves  half  redeemed,  when  my  nej 
master  began  to  let  me  know  1 must  obey  him  in  particular,  ffl 
was  one  of  the  most  ugly  looking  rascals  among  the  whole  tribe,  at: 
his  conduct  was  no  better  than  his  looks.  We  had  been  travelliijj 
together  all  the  day,  before  we  could  learn  to  which  of  them  each  1 
us  belonged.  The  difficulty  of  our  learning  it  of  them,  was  owiif 
to  their  ignorance  of  arithmetic,  and  their  inability  to  inform  us  th 
we  had  been  disposed  of  in  joint  shares  ; for  instance,  five  of  the« 
owning  three  of  us.  As  our  course  was  northerly,  we  had  hopes 
soon  seeing  the  sea-coast.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  came  in  sig  1 
of  tents,  which,  as  they  were  placed  in  a valley,  we  had  approache 
near  before  we  discovered  them.  We  came  toward  them,  undiscove 
ed,  till  within  about  a hundred  yards,  when  we  all  sat  down  on  a san 
hill,  excepting  our  principal  man,  who  was  Ahamed’s  brother,  ar| 
he  stood  up  for  some  time  before  any  of  the  people  of  the  tents  pe, 
ceived  him.  No  sooner  did  they  see  him  and  us,  than  there  seeme 


paddock’s  narrative. 


81 


nong  them  a great  stir,  which  was  made  no  doubt  by  their  looking 
r their  chief.  Soon,  however,  there  came  to  us  a venerably  look- 
g old  man,  mostly  dried  up,  who  accosted  our  chief  man  thus 
Where  are  you  from  ? where  bound  ? are  these  the  Christian  dogs 
have  heard  so  much  of?  what  are  you  going  to  do  with  them?” 
id  so  on.  The  answers  were — “ We  are  from  the  edge  of  the  de- 
rt,”  pointing  south-west ; “ we  belong  to  the  tribe  of  Ahamed ; we 
e bound  to  such  a place,”  pointing  north-east,  “ to  cut  our  grain  ; 
ese  Christians  that  you  sec  are  going  along  with  us,  and  when  the 
irvest  is  over  we  shall  make  a market  of  them.”  “ All  well,”  says 
e old  man,  “ come  along  with  me  and  sup,  and  stay  the  night; 
>u  are  welcome.” 

1 will  here  endeavour  to  describe  the  manner  the  Arabs  ge- 
. rally  receive  their  company.  By  them  it  is  reckoned  unpolite 
;r  a stranger  to  approach  nearer  any  tribe  than  about  the  distance 
a hundred  yards,  without  being  previously  invited.  This  custom 
sometimes  attended  with  inconvenience,  as  the  wayfaring  stran- 
rs  may  not  be  discovered  at  the  moment  of  their  halting,  in  which 
se  they  are  obliged  to  wait  till  they  are  seen,  and  receive  an  invi- 
:ion  ; and  for  that  reason,  when  they  approach  a tribe,  they  often 
ie  a circuitous  route  around  it,  so  as  to  be  the  more  likely  to  be 
,en.  When  they  stop,  one  of  them  at  least  stands  up  erect,  without 
5 gun  ; and  if  the  chief  of  the  tribe  be  at  home,  he  himself  walks 
:th  to  see  who  the  strangers  are  ; but  if  he  be  absent,  some  distin- 
ished  one  else,  most  commonly  one  of  the  richest,  performs  that  du- 
. While  among  these  people,  I observed  that  their  salutations  were 
(ferent  at  different  times.  Sometimes  the  first  words  uttered  by 
(3m  to  the  strangers  are,  “ Is  it  peace  ?”  The  answer  is,  “ It  is 

!ace.”  But  the  questions  most  commonly  are,  “ Who  are  you? 
m whence  ? of  w'hat  tribe  ? is  it  healthy  where  you  belong  ? what 
; the  prospects  of  the  crop  in  your  neighbourhood  ? how  long 
t ee  you  have  heard  from  the  emperor*  ? is  he  at  peace  ?”  The  an- 
s ers  are  as  prompt  and  particular  as  the  questions  ; after  which  fob 
ilvs  the  invitation,  and  they  all  walk  up  to  the  tribe,  and  sit  down, 
.nong  the  Arabs  it  is  considered  as  indispensable  that  every  male 
tove  the  age  of  twenty  should  own  a gun,  and  he  that  has  none  is 
t night  but  little  of,  and  is  never  permitted  to  join  their  circle ; where- 
{ e the  first  money  a young  Arab  can  raise,  goes  to  buying  a gun,  and 
jwder,  and  balls,  all  which  are  procured  from  Mogadore,  and 
aer  places  of  commerce  on  that  coast.  Balls  are  not  so  much  in 
i'  among  them  as  slugs:  these  they  frequently  chew  in  their  mouths 
t form  them  to  nearly  a round  shape,  but  what  is  much  more  frequent 
fill,  they  beat  them  nearly  round  with  a stone.  From  constant 
iictice,  or  their  spending  a great  part  of  their  time  in  this  amuse- 
Int,  they  are  excellent  marksmen;  so  attached  are  they  to  their 
fn,  that  an  Arab  will  take  it  with  him  in  his  hand,  whenever  he 
jps  out  of  his  tent  to  visit  his  neighbour  at  not  more  than  twenty 
J 'ds  distance.  They  think  there  is  no  people  in  the  world  so  ac« 


* The  emperor  of  JSforocco. 

11 


PADDOCK'S’  NARRATIVE', 


$ 

five  and  brave  as  themselves,  and  none  so  well  informed,  and  ffr( 
proudly  say  that  they  are  at  war  with  all  the  world,  and  fear  nobod  | 
As  to  their  learning,  it  is  true  that  many  of  them,  I mean  their  male 
can  write,  and  all  of  them  can  read.  Their  females,  as  i have  sa 
before,  receive  no  education  at  all ; but  are  viewed  by  those  of  tl| 
other  sex,  as  beings  inferior  to  themselves,  and  are  treated  by  the 
as  slaves.  As  to  the  mode  of  educating  their  boys,  in  every  te 
there  is  a board,  made  of  hard  Wood,  and  on  it  is  engraved  their  a 
phabet  or  characters.  By  the  time  a boy  is  eight  years  old,  he  u 
der&tands  all  the  contents  of  the  board,  and  is  now  ready  to  impro’j 
with  every  opportunity  he  has,  from  the  instruction  of  strangers  wl 
visit  them,  who  sometimes  bring  along  with  them  boards  inscribe 
with  extensive  copies  from  the  alcoi’an,  and  these  the  boys  readi 
learn.  Also,  before  the  set  time  for  their  beginning  to  say  the 
prayers,  they  learn  them  by  hearing  them  so  often  repeated  Ij 
others.  I don’t  recollect  my  ever  ascertaining  the  exact  age  win 
a boy  begins  to  say  his  prayers,  nor  do  I remember  my  ever  seeii) 
one  at  the  public  prayers,  who  was  under  the  age  of  from  thirteen 
sixteen.  Not  only  their  prayers,  but  whatever  else  they  have 
learn,  they  usually  learn  it  before  the  time  for  their  putting  it  || 
practice.  For  this  they  have  abundance  of  leisure,  all  the  labour  b| 
ing  done  by  the  -women  and  girls,  and  by  the  slaves.  From  the  b<| 
Jack  I was  given  to  understand  that  the  Arabs  considered  their  wl 
men  as  beings  without  souls,  and  no  better  than  dogs ; “ but,”  sa 
Jack,  “ their  women  don’t  all  agree  to  that  doctrine,  for  my  o 
mistress  used  to  pray  heartily  enough  when  the  old  man  was  out 
the  way.”  From  what  1 could  learn  from  these  boys,  their  regulj 
prayers  during  the  twenty-four  hours,  were  five  in  number : in  the 
first  prayer,  which  was  at  the  dawn  of  the  day,  they  returned  than’ 
to  God  for  the  night  which  he  had  permitted  them  to  enjoy  in  qui 
sleep,  and  prayed  that  he  would  grant  them  the  enjoyment  of  air 
therday  ; at  sunrise,  they  prayed  God  to  bless  them  throughout  tl 
day  begun ; at  mid-day,  they  returned  God  thanks  for  so  much 
the  day,  and  prayed  that  it  might  end  profitably  to  them } at  t! 
setting  of  the  sun,  they  gave  God  thanks  for  the  day  past ; and 
the  evening,  they  prayed  for  a good  and  comfortable  night.  Tl 
boy  Jack  told  me,  as  1 mentioned  before,  that  his  old  mistress  wou 
pray  whenever  she  had  a chance  ; “ and  further,”  said  Jack,  “ si 
used  to  conclude  her  prayers  with  a most  hearty  petition  to  God,  th 
he  would  before  the  morning,  casta  Christian  ship  on  shore,  loadi 
with  a great  deal  of  cloth  and  money.” — The  prayers  of  the  Ara 
were  of  very  great  length : the  particulars  concerning  them,  no 
given,  are  all  I could  collect  from  the  boys,  and  must  sulfice  n 
readers  for  the  present. 

To  return  now  from  this  digression,  and  take  up  again  my  sto 
where  it  was  broken  off:  The  venerable  looking  old  Arab  havh 
prdnounced  (as  I mentioned  before)  his  cordial  invitation,  on  v 
marched ; and  by  this  time  the  whole  tribe  was  out,  men,  wome 
and  children.  They  all,  even  the  children,  had  something  to  say 
us  ; but  we  were  now  become  so  used  to  the  scurrilous  language 


PADDOCK3S  NARRATIVE. 

uch  people,  that  we  paid  no  attention  to  it,  but  seated  ourselves 
mong  their  tents,  on  the  sand.  We  begged  for  water,  having  had  but 
ery  little  of  it  all  that  day,  and  our  stock  being  now  exhausted.  We 
ad  ate  only  once,  if  eating  it  may  be  called,  for  that  meal  consisted 
nly  of  a little  raw  barley-liour  wet  up  pretty  thin,  so  as  to  be  drank 
ither  than  eaten  ; this  we  swilled  down  clean,  and  licked  the  bowl : 
le  whole  quantity  for  us  eleven  was  what  might  be  a full  meal  for  one 
trge  pig.  Our  appetites  were  very  keen,  and  this  swill  tasted  good 
) us,  and  lay  well  on  our  stomachs,  as  did  every  thing  else  that  we 
ad  ate  or  drank.  Many  a time,  and  even  hundreds  of  times,  had 

Ie  cause  to  return  thanks  to  God  for  this  great  blessing — a good  ap- 
etite  for  whatever  food  or  drink  we  could  find,  and  a good  diges-- 
on  of  it. 

Soon  after  we  had  left  our  tribe,  and  taken  a northerly  course,  we 
ad  discovered  some  difference  in  the  face  of  the  country : it  was 
mch  more  uneven,  and  there  were  more  appearances  of  its  having, 
Ji  wet  seasons,  produced  vegetation.  Frequently,  in  the  vallies 
here  the  soil  was  gravel,  and  a little  loam  with  it,  we  saw  some 
ansiderably  large  grass-spots,  the  grass  of  which  was  now  mostly 
f iten  down ; but  no  doubt  in  the  wet  aveather  it  had  been  fine  : also 
i these  places  were  some  dwarf  shrubs,  none  of  which  were  of  the 
inds  we  were  acquainted  with,  except  the  thorn.  In  all  this  day’s 
’>  'avel,  it  seemed  to  us  that  we  were  descending  ; whenever  we  Iook- 
I back,  as  frequently  we  did,  it  had  that  appearance ; and  yet  in 
te  whole  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  our  travel  back,  we  had  no 
erception  of  it.  That  might  be  attributable  to  our  fatigue  of 
ody  and  trouble  of  mind,  and  to  our  crossing  such  abundance  of 
: ind  hills,  that  the  general  ascent  or  descent  of  the  ground  could 
f ardly  have  been  noticed  by  us. 

i Soon  after  we  made  a stop  at  this  place,  the  chief,  and  many  of 
is  tribe,  formed  a circle,  and  began  their  chat,  accompanied  with 
ie  pipe.  When  finding  themselves  short  of  tobacco,  I heard 
iy  name,  Rice,  called  aloud,  and  upon  my  looking  towards  them, 
ie  master  of  my  mates  made  a sign  to  me  that  they  had  no  tobacco, 
y putting  his  finger  in  the  bowl  of  the  pipe.  This  application  was 
lade  to  me  in  particular,  because  at  the  beginning  of  our  journey,  I 
ad  been  appointed  tobacco-carrier.  There  was  about  a pound  of 
tbacco,  rolled  up  snug,  and  put  in  a small  skin,  about  the  size  of 
cat’s,  and  which  was  made  in  the  manner  of  an  old  fashioned 
ouch : this  I reached  to  him,  and  taking  out  as  much  of  it  as  filled 
is  pipe,  he  returned  it  to  me. 

Their  conversation  was  on  general  subjects.  Laura,  agreeably  to 
le  arrangement  previously  made  between  him  and  me,  was  listen- 
ig  to  it,  but  could  gather  nothing  of  interest  relative  to  our  future 
estiny.  Indeed  they  frequently  spoke  of  us,  but  in  such  a manner 
s often  reminded  me  of  the  old  adage,  Listeners  seldom  hear  any 
ood  of  themselves.  That  saying  was  verified  here  completely  : 
le  heads  of  their  discourse  concerning  us  were,  that  we  were  a poor, 
miserable,  degraded  race  of  mortals,  doomed  to  the  everlasting  pu- 
ishment  of  hell  fire  after  death,  and  in  this  life  fit  only  for  the  com 


84 


paddock’s  narrative. 


pany  of  dogs;  that  our  country  was  so  wretchedly  poor,  we  wed 
always  looking  out  abroad  for  sustenance,  and  ourselves  so  base  as  tj| 
go  to  the  Coast  of  Guinea  for  slaves  to  cultivate  our  land,  being  ml 
only  too  lazy  to  cultivate  it  ourselves,  but  too  stupid  to  learn  how  t 
do  it;  and  finally,  that  if  all  the  Christians  were  obliged  to  live  £ 
home,  their  race  would  soon  be  extinct:  that  those  belonging  t|| 
Christian  countries,  being  dependent  on  the  other  countries  for  a 
most  every  thing  necessary  to  support  nature  with,  they  make  fell 
sale  such  things  as  guns,  powder,  knives,  and  so  on,  all  which  thij 
world  might  do  well  enough  without ; and  then  they  barter  thesi 
things  away  to  people  abroad  for  the  necessaries  of  life. 

. These  topics  of  discourse  seemed  to  excite  a very  lively  intern 
among  the  company ; but  as  to  ourselves,  we  felt  more  interest  ijj 
our  supper  of  barley  meal  and  water,  which  we  got  at  last,  but  fa 
from  enough  to  overload  our  stomachs ; and  then  we  laid  down,  alj 
Usual,  in  the  cold  wind,  having  no  bed  but  the  sand,  and  nothin 
over  us  but  the  open  firmament  of  heaven ; and  in  that  situation  w 
slept  finely,  after  travelling  26  miles. 


CHAP.  VIII. 

Progress  in  our  journey — A reservoir  on  our  way— A description  of  it — An  account  <$ 
the  heaps  of  stones,  and  the  custom  of  the  Arabs  of  throwing  each  a stone  upo 
every  heap  they  pass  by — The  supposed  cause  of  these  piles — Our  distressful  suffer1 
jogs  with  thirst  and  hunger — We  see,  for  the  first  time,  an  inhabited  dwelling  inthj 
form  of  a house,  and  a large  field  of  barley — Our  entry  upon  the  borders  of  a fertil 
country,  pnd  our  arrival  at  last  to  a vast  barley-field,  owned  by  Abamed — The  set 
tied  resolution  with  us  not  to  work  in  it,  and  our  reasons  for  this — How  we  manage 
it  with  the  Ishmaelites,  and  obtained  our  end— The  expedient  of  Pat  to  get  clear  c| 
work,  and  to  fill  his  belly — The  attempt  to  starve  us  to  a compliance — We  march  oi|j 
in  a body,  and  are  overtaken  by  the  Arabs  with  loaded  muskets,  and  threateneij 
•with  instant  death — We  are  conducted  by  them  to  ahouse  owned  by  Aharned,  wher1 
his  sister  boards  us  by  the  week — A description  of  that  tenement  and  its  two  princi 
pal  tenants — The  employments  we  were  there  put  to — We  are  lodged  in  a goat-pen 
paved  with  filth,  and  swarming  with  fleas — Description  of  a vault  filled  with  baric; 
in  the  sheaf — Ad  Arabian  corn-mill  described — My  interview  with  a venerably  look 
iug  and  kindly  seeming  old  Arab. 

Upon  the  2.5th,  uncommonly  early  in  the  morning,  we  starter 
away,  in  an  east-north-east  course,  and  travelled  very  fast  for  tra' 
vcllers  in  our  condition.  Before  9 o’clock  in  the  morning  we  bar 
Become  very  thirsty,  as  well  as  hungry.  We  had  taken  along  will? 
us  no  water,  and  but  little  meal ; and  while  we  were  begging  lot 
water  or  for  victuals,  they  snarled  out  to  us,  Cooly  mackan,  shrub 
mackan — no  victuals,  no  drink, — and  hurried  us  along.  By  If 
o’clock,  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  almost  insufferable  ; we  sat  down 
only  for  a few  minutes,  and  then  were  driven  on  again.  The  further 
Ave  advanced,  the  more  hilly  the  country  became,  but  it  was  still 
barren  except  in  small  spots.  Wc  were  fast  approaching  a rock} 
mountain  lying  on  our  right,  appearing  to  be  at  least  two  hundred 
feet  in  height.  We  perceived  where  this  mountain,  seeming  to  have: 


paddock’s  narrative. 


35 


oken  asunder,  formed  two  separate  hills,  with  a valley  between 
lem ; and  when  we  were  at  no  great  distance  therefrom,  some  of 
je  Arabs  left  us  and  ran  ahead,  while  others  were  forcing  us  on  as 
st  as  possible.  When  we  came  abreast  of  this  valley,  to  our  asto- 
ishment  we  saw  a reservoir  of  water,  and  the  Arabs  who  had  start- 
id  ahead  of  us  drinking  at  it.  We  soon  got  to  it,  and  when  came 
>ir  own  turn,  which  of  course  was  the  last,  we  drank  no  small  quan- 
ly,  and  all  of  us  sat  down  at  our  drinking  place.  The  Arabs  then 
nixed  together  some  raw  meal  and  Avater,  and  eat  of  it;  after 
•iich  they  gave  us  some,  and  on  it  we  made  a sumptuous  break- 

Iist  about  noon,  having  ate  nothing  before  from  the  time  of  our  scanty 
:pper,  that  is,  in  15  hours. 

This  reservoir  very  much  attracted  my  attention.  It  Avas  built  of 
me,  laid  Avith  lime  mortar,  as  I should  guess,  about  100  feet  long, 
t feet  broad,  and  from  12  to  15  feet  deep;  the  lop  Avas  arched 
er,  and  all  was  done  in  a Avorkmanlike  manner.  One  of  the  ends 
ing  designed  to  receive  all  the  Avater  that  runs  down  this  valley,  is 
lien  ; but  the  end  Ave  drank  at  Avas  closed,  leaving  a door-way  of 
pout  four  feet  in  length,  and  three  in  Avidth ; from  the  door- way 

isre  Avere  stepping-stones  to  go  doAvn  to  the  Avater,  Avhich  avo  sup- 
ped to  be  seven  feet  deep  ; it  was  clear  as  rock  Avater,  so  that  Ave 
uld  plainly  discern  the  little  pebbles  at  the  bottom.  The  Avails  of 
t?  reservoir  were  about  three  feet  thick,  and  the  arch  about  two  feet 
;d  a half  thick  at  the  top,  where  the  key-stone  Avas  laid  in.  I was 
« out  going  to  the  further  end,  in  order  to  obtain  a more  full  and  par- 
1 ular  vievv  of  that  part  than  could  be  had  at  the  distance  Ave  were, 

I t I Avas  prevented.  I asked  the  Arabs  how  long  it  was  since  this 
i;ervoir  had  been  built,  and  by  whom?  But  all  the  satisfaction  I 
I uld  get  from  them  Avas,  It  Avas  built  by  a good  man  longer  ago  than 
t ay  could  remember.  I had  no  doubt  but  they  might  have  given 
n the  history  of  it,  if  they  had  been  so  inclined.  Laura  observed 
t me  at  the  time,  that  it  Avould  be  useless  to  ask  them  any  more 
< estions ; for,  instead  of  answering,  they  groAvled  out  one  to  an- 
her,  “ What  right  have  these  dogs  to  know  any  thing  about  our 
< untry  ?” 

When  Ave  Avere  about  to  leave  this  place,  Avhich  we  all  regretted 
1 lea\re  so  soon,  one  of  them  took  the  bowl  that  Ave  had  been  drinkimr 
1 1 of,  and  rubbed  the  inside  of  it  over  with  sand,  and  put  it  bot- 
i n upward  upon  a stone  which  had  been  left  projecting  out, 
st  on  the  inside  of  the  door- way,  and  no  doubt  it  was  left  there 
Ir  that  purpose.  Then  commenced  our  march,  yet  not  before  they 
hd  gone  through  Avith  their  long  prayers,  which  in  a great  measure 
insisted  of  thanksgiving  for  the  benefits  of  that  fountain.  At  a fevv 
a lies  onAV3rd  we  came  to  a heap  of  stones,  Avhen  each  Arab  took  up 
< ie  stone  and  threvv  it  upon  the  pile,  Avhich  was  then  of  30  feet  dia- 
ller at  the  base,  and  of  about  the  same  measure  in  height.  We 
: d seen  a great  number  of  these  piles  while  Ave  Avere  in  the  posses- 
:in  of  the  hunters,  who,  in  every  instance  of  our  coming  to  one  of 
|[em,  took  up  each  a stone,  and  threw  it  upon  the  top.  Sometimes 
ey  took  up  their  stones,  and  carried  them  along  a mile  or  more. 


haddock’s  NAItRATIV-E. 


86 


before  we  had  discovered  ihe  heap.  The  reason  of  this  at  last  h 
came  obvious  to  us  ; the  Arabs  knew,  from  having  passed  by  the 
particular  heaps  before,  that  there  Avere  no  stones  lying  near  the; 
As  we  could  hitherto  form  no  other  conjecture  concerning  the 
heaps,  we  had  concluded  they  were  land  marks  ; but  now,  bavin 
through  our  interpreters,  the  advantage  of  speaking  in  the  Arabj 
we  inquired  of  them  the  cause,  and  they  told  us  that  under  that  he; 
lay  the  corpse  of  some  great  man.  Upon  our  asking  them  he 
they  knew  that,  they  replied,  if  it  were  not  so,  the  heap  would  n| 
have  been  there.  From  all  appearances,  I have  no  doubt  but  the 
heaps  have  been  accumulating  for  hundreds  of  years. 

As  we  advanced  eastward,  the  country  showed,  more  and  moi 
the  signs  of  vegetation  ; it  had,  in  fact,  become  hilly,  and  less  be 
ren.  This  afternoon  we  found  growing  some  little  barley,  whi! 
w'e  gathered  and  eat.  At  night  we  got  neither  victuals  nor  drini 
for  though  we  had  meal  with  us,  it  was  useless  for  the  want  of  w 
ter  to  mix  with  it.  We  lay  down  with  empty  stomachs,  and  sle 
well,  after  travelling  25  miles.  On  the  26th  we  started  forwai 
early  in  the  morning,  in  a north-east  course.  From  every  appet 
ance,  and  from  the  calculations  we  had  made  of  our  courses,  it  th 
seemed  to  us  that  we  -were  drawing  towards  the  sea  coast,  which  \\ 
were  very  desirous  of  seeing,  though  at  the  same  time  we  could  n1 
expect  any  advantages  from  it.  About  10  o’clock,  while  we  we 
much  fatigued,  we  saw  a number  of  tents  ahead,  and  soon  we  arriv" 
at  them,  and  were  (that  is  to  say,  the  Arabs  with  us)  well  receive 
It  was  a small  tribe  of  about  forty  tents  ; the  chief  was  abseri 
From  their  well  we  got  some  water,  which  was  very  brackish ; the’ 
and  a little  meal,  made  an  excellent  swill  for  us.  We  stayed  the 
but  a short  time,  and  then  pushed  on  again.  In  the  afternoon  v 
came  to  a well  which  had  been  lately  dug  out,  and  there  got  son 
water.  At  night  we  lay  down  on  a high  knoll  of  sand  and  rock; 
the  wind  was  high,  the  night  was  cold,  and  we  suffered  very  mud 
We  begged  hard  for  permission  to  go  into  the  valley,  but  could  n< 
obtain  it. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  we  were  atvakened  earlier  than  usual 
no  signs  of  day  being  then  visible  in  the  firmament.  Immediate; 
after  the  prayers  were  over  we  started  on,  when  the  north  star  w; 


still  in  sight ; our  course  was  from  north-east  to  east-north-eas 
Thirst  and  hunger  were  sufferings  not  new  to  us,  but  their  craving 
were  now  severe  indeed.  About  noon  we  saw  a dwelling,  built  i 
stone  ; on  approaching  which,  we  found  it  contained  a very  larg 
family,  or  rather  several  families.  Under  the  wall  we  seated  ouii 
selves,  and  were  viewed  by  them  all ; and  had  the  mortification  ( 
mortified  we  could  be  by  any  thing  they  could  say)  of  hearing  th 
same  kind  of  remarks  upon  us,  that  had  been  made  before  from  dm 
to  time,  after  our  leaving  Ahamed’s  tribe.  We  however  got  of  ther 
some  boiled  meal,  the  remains  of  the  Arabs’  breakfast,  and  in 
was  a 1 ittle  butter;  it  was  to  us  a rare  dish,  though  a very  scant 
one,  being  not  more  than  enough  for  two  men.  At  a smalt  di: 
tance  from  this  house  was  a piece  of  barley,  of  about  ten  acrh1 


radoock’s  narrative* 


87 


•his  was  the  first  inhabited  building  that  might  be  called  a house, 
liiich  we  had  seen  since  our  landing,  and  this  was  the  first  consi- 
Irable  piece  of  barley  either  grown  or  growing.  There  was  also 
Ire  a little  garden,  in  which  we  saw  some  finely  looking  pompions 
Id  onions,  but  could  get  none  of  them. 

. After  marching  on,  we  could  discern,  from  the  top  of  a hill,  seve- 
r settlements,  and  fields  of  grain,  and  we  now  began  to  think  our 
Ifierings  in  a great  measure  at  an  end.  At  about  3 or  4 o’clock  we 
(me  to  a large  habitation,  or  place  of  abode,  of  two  or  three  hun- 
led  feet  square,  all  walled  in  ; but  not  having  the  privilege  of  en- 
ding therein,  we  could  but  merely  conjecture,  from  the  numbers  of 
t)se  who  came  out  to  satisfy  their  curiosity  by  looking  at  us,  that 
Is  place  contained  a hundred  inhabitants,  including  men,  women, 
id  children,  the  latter  seeming  to  constitute  a large  proportion  of 
Hi  whole.  In  only  a few  hours’  travel,  we  had,  from  a dreary  de- 
frt  arrived  to  a country  as  fertile  for  grain  as  I ever  saw  ; it  was  now 
tie,  and  ready  for  reaping.  During  our  stay,  our  Arabian  compa- 
nns  were  in  close  conversation  with  the  inhabitants  here,  but  the 
ibject  of  it  we  could  not  learn.  Upon  leaving  them,  we  ascended 
tiigh  hill,  covered  with  barley  ; on  the  summit,  we  discovered  at  a 
giat  distance  off,  the  sea,  and  as  that  was  the  element  we  were  so 

iich  accustomed  to,  the  sight  of  it  seemed  to  infuse  joy  into  every 
east.  The  Arabs  pushed  us  on  till  near  sunset,  when  we  were 
ought  to,  and  were  informed  that  we  now  wTere  on  the  ground  be- 
iging  to  Ahamed,  and  that  the  piece  of  grain  that  now  lay  before 
i was  his.  Upon  viewing  it,  I thought  it  contained  at  least  an 
Indred  acres,  but  as  1 had  not  been  accustomed  to  measuring  land, 
laight  have  been  wide  from  the  mark  in  my  calculation ; though,, 
8 any  rate,  it  was  the  largest  field  of  grain  I ever  saw.  Our  Arab^ 
l'ormed  us  that  we  were  to  stay  with  them  there  till  that  grain  was 
fit  and  secured  ; and  now,  said  they,  we  will  see  what  Christians  can 
| . I told  Laura  there  was  some  management  for  us  to  attend  to 
< this  occasion  ; that  if  we  were  to  go  to  work,  and  do  our  best, 
i would  be  the  means  of  perpetuating  our  slavery.  He  expressed 
Inself  of  the  same  opinion.  I then  exhorted  all  my  men  to  make 
i seem  to  these  Arabs  as  if  they  were  unused  to  that  kind  of  labour, 
,d  that  if  they  should  be  compelled  to  work,  they  must  take  care, 
bile  at  it,  to  do  their  employers  no  good  ; telling  them  that  the  ob~ 
l inment  of  our  ransom  would  depend  upon  our  strict  adherence  to  this 
]m — and  upon  that  point  we  were  all  agreed.  They  had  obtained- 
; a small  distance,  some  water  for  themselves,  and  gave  us  some 
t:al,  prepared,  as  before,  in  the  common  way  of  swill ; and  then 
laid  down  to  rest,  in  a very  cold  place,  having  travelled  ajbout 
. miles  that  day,  and,  in  the  whole  distance  frooi  Ahamed’s  tribe, 
miles.  The  sea  we  supposed  not  far  distant,  the  wind  was  high, 
;d  this  proved  the  coldest  birth  we  had  ever  experienced  ; never- 
tdess,  after  being  a little  rested  from  our  fatigue,  we  slept  tolerably 

ill. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  27th,  the  sickles  that  they  brought 
■’th  them  were  made  ready,  and  all  hands  of  us  were  ordered  out  te 


28 


paddock’s  narrative. 


work.  On  hearing  my  name  in  particular  called,  I told  them  5 nev 
had  cut  grain,  nor  had  ever  done  any  work  of  the  kind  ; that  I was! 
shipmaster,  and  had  been  learnt  nothing  else.  For  this  1 rcceivj 
their  curses  and  threats,  but  with  a determination  not  to  heed  theii 
In  the  mean  time  Laura  said  to  me,  “ They  are  determined  to  ti| 
you  ; I heard  them  say,  ifRias  works  his  men  will,  for  he  is  the  he;  1 
devil  among  them.”  I told  Laura  he  might  tell  them  from  me,  thl 
I would  not  work,  that  1 was  in  their  power,  and  they  might  do  wil 
me  as  they  pleased ; that  Ahamed  had  promised  to  carry  us  all 
Swearah,  for  the  purpose  of  our  being  ransomed  there,  and  I hi 
pledged  myself  to  make  him  full  compensation  for  all  his  expens 
and  trouble.  To  this  they  replied,  that  Ahamed  had  ordered  the 
to  make  us  work  till  the  grain  was  cut  and  secured,  and  if  I wouf 
not  work  they  would  shoot  me.  The  boy  Jack  was  present,  at 
interposed,  by  observing  he  heard  them  say,  if  I would  not  begi 
and  my  men  follow  me,  they  would  put  me  to  death  first,  and  tlj1 
others  should  share  the  same  fate.  I told  Jack  to  tell  them  tht1 
might  do  as  they  pleased  ; I would  take  my  chance  in  regard  to  til 
consequences  of  my  refusal.  I do  not  wish  to  make  myself  appe: 
in  this  case  as  the  man  to  brave  all  dangers.  The  fact  was,  bo 
myself  and  my  crew  were  at  that  time  reduced  to  mere  skeleton 
with  fatigue  of  body,  and  troubles  of  mind,  all  which  made  life  tl 
less  desirable  to  us  ; and  besides,  I thought  there  would  be  less  dal 
ger  of  their  threats  being  put  in  execution  on  account  of  the  absent! 
of  Ahamed. 

This  controversy  lasted  an  hour,  and  they  got  my  men  into  tl 
field  at  last.  Some  of  them  could  handle  a sickle  as  well  as  then 
selves ; one  of  whom  (being  the  man  that  I was  fearful  would  be  < 
the  most  service  to  them)  I told  to  cut  his  own  fingers,  as  if  b 
accident.  They  all  understood  my  meaning,  and  it  was  not  Ion; 
after  my  men  had  been  dragged  into  the  field,  before  I found  the1 
were  doing  very  well,  I mean  well  for  our  own  purposes.  Some  b| 
accident,  and  some  intentionally  perhaps,  cut  their  fingers  and  hanc 
with  their  sickles,  and  made  loud  complaints ; while  others,  wh 
were  gathering  up  the  grain  for  binding,  did  it  in  such  a wastefi 
manner  that  their  work  was  a real  damage  to  the  owner.  Upo 
this  the  Arabs  took  away  the  sickles  from  those  of  them  that  ha< 
been  reaping,  and  set  them  to  hauling  the  grain  up  by  the  roots 
They  did  so,  but  laid  it  in  the  worst  form  that  was  possible.  B 
managing  things  in  this  way,  they  beat  the  Ishmaelites,  and  got  th* 
victory.  Our  poor  fellows  suffered  very  much  for  a short  time ; buj 
at  last  they  were  all  driven  out  of  the  field,  when  we  all  assemble' 
together  at  the  place  where  the  reapers  had  begun  their  business.  , 

As  the  sun  arose  the  heat  increased,  and  to  such  a degree,  then 
being  a dead  calm,  that  it  was  almost  insufferable.  We  could  no 
find  where  they  got  their  water,  and  being  destitute  of  both  victual; 
and  drink,  we  cat  raw  barley.  About  noon,  the  reapers  were  re 
turning,  cutting  the  grain  as  they  came  on ; and  we  sent  Jack  tc 
meet  them,  and  to  beg  of  them  some  water  for  us.  He  returned  to 
its  with  this  message,  you  shall  have  no  water  till  you  will  work, 


paddock’s  narrative. 


89 


'hey  came  up  to  us  at  last,  and  sat  down  to  rest  themselves ; and 
e then  complained  to  them  of  our  necessitous  condition,  and  beg- 
|ed  relief,  but  all  the  reply  they  gave  us  was,  if  you  will  not  work 
pu  shall  not  eat.  At  this  time  I began  to  think  that  some  of  my 
jllow-sufferers  ivould  be  starved  into  a compliance.  Whoever  has 
| It  the  extremity  of  hunger  and  thirst,  can  judge  what  our  feelings 
id  sufferings  were  at  that  crisis.  But  being  myself  strongly  im- 
iressed  with  the  belief  that  our  obstinacy  in  this  case  was  the  only 
ay  to  obtain  our  freedom.  I thought  it  my  duty  to  exhort  them  all 
stand  hrm  in  the  resolution  we  had  taken.  I was  the  more  tho- 
mghly  convinced  of  the  necessity  of  this  course  of  conduct,  by  two 
i rcumstances ; the  one  was,  there  were  at  that  time  immense  fields 
f:’  standing  grain,  which  required  a great  many  labourers,  and  the 
her  circumstance  was,  the  plague,  as  I had  repeatedly  heard,  had 
vept  oft'  the  inhabitants,  which  made  labourers  scarce.  Hence  I 
included  that  if  we  should  make  ourselves  serviceable  to  our  op- 
ressors,  we  should  be  kept  by  them,  at  least  long  enough  to  answer 
ieir  present  purpose,  and  perhaps  several  of  us  for  life. 

, Soon  after  the  Arabs  had  started  off  to  their  work  the  second  time, 
at  was  missing.  We  all  wondered  (for  none  of  us  could  tell)  what 
ad  become  of  Pat.  In  about  two  hours  he  returned,  marvellously 
flanged  in  looks,  and  especially  as  to  his  bulk  ; for  he  had  eaten  such 
quantity  of  stirabout , as  he  called  it,  that  his  body,  about  the  waist, 
as  swoln  to  double  the  size  it  was  when  he  left  us.  His  story 
las  this  ; While  there  was  going  on  with  us  the  conversation  about 
orking  in  the  barley-field,  he  took  himself  off,  first  going  round  a 
fettle  knoll,  then  keeping  himself  in  a valley  till  he  thought  he  was 
r enough  off  to  be  out  of  his  taskmasters’  view,  and  finally  ascend- 
ig  the  highest  hill  then  in  sight,  where  he  saw  a large  house  in  the 
|sxt  valley,  and  the  men,  at  that  instant,  going  from  it  into  the  grain 
J eld.  As  soon  as  he  could  do  it  with  safety,  he  descended  the  hill, 
ad  when  near  the  house,  he  saw  the  women,  and  stopped.  They 
loked  at  him,  and,  probably  having  a knowledge  of  our  being  in 
le  neighbourhood,  were  not  alarmed.  He  durst  not  approach  them 
i earer,  for  fear  of  giving  alarm  to  the  men.  In  that  situation,  he 
lought  to  draw  their  compassion  towards  him  by  making  to  them 
igns  of  hunger  ; but  that  was  of  no  avail.  Whereupon  he  mounted 
large  stone,  and  fell  to  singing  and  dancing.  This  took  with 
lem ; in  a moment,  as  it  were,  they  all  came  about  him,  women  and 
hildren,  some  bringing  him  milk,  and  others  stirabout.  He  eat  all 
lat  was  first  brought  him,  and  craved  more,  which  they  continued 
i furnish  him  with  as  long  as  he  danced  and  sung,  and  that  was  as 
ing  as  he  could  eat  and  move.  After  his  jig  was  over,  he  took  as 
mch  with  him  as  he  could  carry  in  his  hands,  and  left  them,  and 
ame  back  by  the  way  he  went,  undiscovered  by  the  Arabs  of  the 
ther  sex. 

Some  of  our  men  were  desirous  of  trying  their  luck  by  the  same 
leans,  but  thinking  it  imprudent,  I dissuaded  them  from  it.  Hav- 
lg  all  that  day  received  nothing  to  eat,  and  anticipating,  as  we  then 
id,  another  cold  night’s  lodging,  we  all  fell  to  work,  (as  loose  stones 

12 


■ 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE, 


9ft 

were  plenty  there,)  and  built  a stone  wall,  three  or  four  feet  high,  at 
perhaps  ten  feet  long,  as  a lee  to  defend  us  from  the  cold  of  tl 
night  wind.  We  had  it  nearly  completed  as  the  Arabs  came 
sight ; when  each  dropping  his  sickle,  they  ran  to  us  in  a great  pa 
sion,  abused  us  as  usual,  and  not  only  hove  our  Avail  down,  b 
threatened  us  with  severe  beatings  in  case  we  should  presume  to  s 
ourselves  about  that  work  again.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  remai 
here,  that  while  we  were  removing  these  stones  for  our  wall,  v 
discovered,  in  digging  or  hauling  them  up,  that  the  soil  was  of  coar  i 
and  fine  gravel,  intermixed  with  coarse  sand  ; some  of  our  men  wl 
understood  the  qualities  of  soils  better  than  I did,  observed  that 
was  of  the  right  kind  for  grain.  In  vain  did  we  remonstrate  again 
this  cruel  treatment  of  theirs,  in  not  only  keeping  us  without  fot 
and  drink,  but  exposing  us  unsheltered  to  the  cold  night  winds ; 
was  in  vain  we  told  them  we  could  not  live  under  such  extren 
hardships.  Their  only  reply  was,  u go  to  work,  and  then  you  m; 
eat.”  And  again,  it  was  in  vain  to  tell  them  that  we  could  not  woi 
on  the  land,  that  the  sea  was  our  element.  They  were  deaf  to  £ 
we  could  say,  and  not  the  least  relief  would  they  afford  us. 

At  length  they  went  to  their  work  again,  and  when  once  out 
sight,  we,  feeling  our  situation  to  be  truly  distressing,  held  a sort, 
council,  to  devise  what  steps  were  necessary  to  be  taken  by  us  b 
fore  it  should  be  too  late.  A part  of  us  no  doubt  had  some  inclin 
tion  to  go  into  the  field  to  work : but  at  last  we  were  unanimously 
the  opinion  that  our  best  plan  was  to  move  off  to  the  eastward  in 
body,  and  abide  its  consequences.  The  boy  Jack  was  quiet: 
asleep  at  the  time,  having  had,  without  doubt,  his  meal  private!; 
Pat  was  but  half  asleep ; he  lay  groaning  under  the  monstrous  bu 
then  he  had  upon  his  stomach.  We  roused  them  both  up.  Pat  w; 
ready  for  our  enterprise  as  soon  as  he  could  get  upon  his.  legs  ; bi 
Jack  objected  to  it,  by  saying,  their  guns  were  all  loaded,  and  wei 
now  lying  by  the  side  of  us,  and  he  knew  that  they  would  fire  at  t 
as  soon  as  they  should  come  within  gunshot.  Prevailed  upon,  how 
ever,  by  Laura,  he  joined  us. 

Things  being  thus  arranged,  I took  the  lead,  and  all  the  rest  fo 
lowed.  We  had  proceeded  about  eighty  rods  from  the  field  whe| J 
they  discovered  us,  and,  in  a moment,  each  dropping  his  sickle,  the 
ran  for  their  guns,  and  seizing  these  weapons,  they  ran  after  u, 
Calling  aloud  for  us  to  stop.  We  paid  no  attention  to  them,  bi 
moved  on  as  fast  as  possible.  The  hindermost  one  got  a knoc 
from  a musket,  as  several  of  the  rest  of  us  did  after  him,  and,  finally 
we  were  stopped,  and  held  a parley  with  them.  They  threatened 
us  with  death,  but  we  were  now  past  the  fear  of  that ; our  lives  ha. 
become  burthensome  to  us,  by  means  of  our  sufferings,  and  of  oq 
ceaseless  dread  of  perpetual  slavery.  They  ordered  us  back,  bi 
we  refused  at  all  hazards,  pleading,  earnestly  and  repeatedly,  th 
promise  made  to  me  by  Ahamed.  When  they  found  we  would  nc 
go  back,  they  said  we  should  be  put  Avhere  they  could  always  fin' 
us,  and  then  marched  us  on.  After  we  had  walked  through  th 
fields  about  two  mile*,  we  came  to  a large  habitation ; there  w 


EADDOCK-’s  NARRATIVE 


9i 


-eve  stop't,  under  the  walls,  when  one  of  them  went  in  at  the  gate- 
ay.  As  the  gate  was  open,  the  whole  of  the  residents  there  soon 
ime  out  to  look  at  us,  and  the  .sivff  that  was  made  use  of  by  their 
t ingues,  it  is  not  only  improper  to  mention,  but  indecent.  How- 
ver,  with  a woman  who  occupied  an  inner  room,  a bargain  was 
ade,  that  she  should  keep  us  till  Ahamed  should  come,  at  a given 
im  by  the  day.  We  could  not  learn  the  amount  of  her  boarding 
es,  but  were  soon  given  to  understand  that  one  of  the  conditions  of 
?r  taking  us  in  was,  that  we  were  to  gather  and  bring  home  the 
cod,  and  parch  the  corn  or  barley,  and  grind  it.  The  wood  which 
e had  to  provide  consisted  of  dry  brush,  gathered  from  off  the  hills  ; 
appeared  to  be  the  growth  of  but  one  year,  and  to  become  fit  only 
r the  fire  by  its  having  perished  with  drought.  As  to  our  business 
‘ parching  barley-corn,  it  was  performed  in  a kettle,  over  a slow 
■e,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  better  for  grinding  ; the  wroman  we 
ere  with  w as  only  to  make  our  pudding. 

This  matter  being  settled,  the  Arabian  reapers  returned  to  their 
■Id.  We  soon  found  that  a part  of  this  establishment  belonged  to 
hamcd,  and  that  Salear,  which  was  the  name  of  the  woman,  was  his 
ster.  We  were  told,  that  during  the  rainy  months  of  the  winter 
:ason,  Ahamed  and  his  family  took  up  their  abode  here.  The 
hiding  was  an  oblong  square,  of  about  80  feet  by  120  ; the  eut- 
,ie  wmlls  wrere  about  3 feet  thick,  of  stone,  laid  in  lime  mortar,  and 
Hi  feet  high ; the  rooms,  which  were  many,  were  from  8 to  1 4 feet 
suare  ; the  roof  was  pitching,  from  the  walls  towards  the  centre, 
<vered  with  stone  and  a cement  of  lime,  and  was  water  tight.  It 
is  supported  with  timber,  of  which  several  pieces  had  been  spars 
< wrecked  vessels,  such  as  steering  sail  booms,  top  gallant,  and 
jyal  yards,  &c.  We  soon  found  the  way  to  the  well,  which  pro- 
t ced  fine  water,  and  we  drank  of  it  an  uncommon  quantity. 

The  room  next  the  gate  w as  occupied  by  a petulant  old  man,  who 
;olded  hard  at  Salear  for  making  such  a bargain,  and  swore  that  w'e 
"re  not  worthy  of  a mouthful  of  bread.  On  our  own  part,  we  did 
: that  was  in  our  power  to  render  our  company  less  odious  than 
tis  man  represented  it  to  be.  Some  of  our  men,  sent  to  gather  brush 
!■  cooking  our  supper,  rambled  a long  time,  and  returned  with  but 
1 tie  ; and  during  their  absence  I took  the  liberty  to  walkout  of  the 
te,  for  the  purpose  of  looking  around  me.  The  old  man  was  seat- 
» at  the  time  opposite  the  gate.  He  spoke  to  me,  and  bade  me 
i down.  I sat  down;  but  happening  to  sit  near  him,  he  ordered 
n away  to  a further  distance,  saying  he  did  not  allow  a Christian 
i g to  be  so  nigh  him.  I obeyed,  and  moved  off  a little.  He  then 
iked  me  a few  questions  about  our  ship,  and  as  to  what  she  had  in 
ir.  Laura  wras  then  gone  after  wood,  but  Jack  was  in  sight,  and  I 
i lied  him  to  me  for  my  linguist  on  this  occasion.  After  he  had 
j thered  from  me  all  the  information  he  wanted,  he  made  some  im- 
] rtinent  remarks,  and  ordered  me  within  the  walls,  and  follow  ed 
] ?,-and  as  soon  as  we  were  all  mustered,  he  locked  the  gate.  The 
1 :k  was  very  large,  and  he  made  use  of  his  fingers  for  the  key.  It 
'is  nearly  eight  o’clock  before  we  got  our  supper,  which  was  excel- 


92 


paddock’s  narrative. 


lent,  consisting  of  a little  barley  flour  and  a great  deal  of  Water ; tli 
whole  of  it,  however,  would  have  been  insufficient  for  half  of  oi ! 
number,  but  when  we  complained  of  its  great  deficiency  in  respei  I 
to  quantity,  We  were  told  it  was  as  much  as  we  deserved.  As  ui 
pleasant  as  this  kind  of  language  from  our  new  mistress  tvas,  we  wet 
obliged  to  put  up  with  it,  and  crawl  into  the  hovel  provided  for  oi 
lodging  place,  which  Was  about  ten  feet  square,  and  six  feet  high 
it  had  been  a goat  pen,  and  now  was  not  cleaned  out.  1 would  hci 
observe,  the  Arabs  never  fail  to  bring  all  their  flocks  within  the 
walls  at  night ; for  having  no  fences,  they  would  be  unsafe  if  kej 
out.  unless  they  were  watched  by  herdmen  or  shepherds. 

This  was  the  first  roofed  covering  we  had  had  since  the  time  i 
our  leaving  our  wreck,  and,  with  our  i umber,  it  was  quite  war: 
enough.  But  we  found  here  a bloody  foe.  As  soon  as  we  had  gi 
stowed  away,  the  fleas  attacked  us  on  all  sides.  At  no  time  sin< 
our  first  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Arabs,  had  we  been  free  fro. 
the  annoyance  of  these  vermin,  but  never  did  they  attack  us  so  cn 
elly  before;  not  one  of  us  could  sleep  till  after  midnight.  In  tl 
morning  of  the  28th  we  were  awaked  out  of  sleep  by  Salear  I 
prayer,  who,  as  soon  as  she  had  ended  her  devotions,  came  out  < 
her  lodging  room,  adjacent  to  ours,  and  heaped  upon  us  as  mar 
curses  as  her  tongue  could  utter,  for  our  keeping  her  awake  most 
the  night.  Her  scolding  drew  to  us  the  old  man,  nor  were  we  'spa  1 
ed  at  all  by  him.  We  attempted  to  excuse  this  ofi’ence  of  ours,  t 
telling  them  the  flees  bit  us  so  cruelly  that  we  could  not  sleep,  and  w 
promised  to  do  better,  or  keep  stiller,  for  the  time  to  come.  But  a 
this  did  not  satisfy  them,  nor  did  their  anger  abate  for  a long  tinx 
At  last,  however,  the  old  man  opened  the  gate,  and  let  us  out.  TV 
then  shook  off  as  many  of  these  unwelecme  little  inmates  as  w 
could,  and  went  to  the  well,  which  was  about  a hundred  yards  fra 
the  house,  and  there  we  drank  freely.  Indeed  we  could  hard] 
satisfy  ourselves,  so  long  had  we  been  deprived  of  water,  and  wh;i 
we  had  heretofore  got,  so  bad,  and  this  so  good.  When  we  wer 
going  out  of  the  gate,  my  second  mate,  who  was  of  a mechanics 
turn,  observed  the  manner  of  the  old  man’s  fingers  while  he  U'as  uijj 
locking  it,  and  getting  an  opportnnity  soon  after  of  viewing  the  loch 
he  immediately  found  out  the  whole  secret,  and  could  lock  and  ur 
lock  it  as  readily  as  our  old  jailor.  No  one  of  us  but  he  could  uni 
dersland  how  it  was  done,  nor  was  it  prudent  for  us  to  examine  int  i 
it,  lest  we  should  be  discovered  while  so  doing,  and  get  the  oh 
man’s  displeasure  ; in  fact,  the  knowledge  of  that  secret  could  hav 
been  of  no  service  to  us. 

Some  of  our  hands  having  been  dispatched  to  the  hills  for  fuel,  and 
after  a long  absence,  returning  with  but  little,  Salear  declared  shi 
could  gather  more  of  it  herself  than  all  these  dogs  put  together.  I 
was  about  10  o’clock  before  we  got  our  breakfast,  which  finished  al 
.the  meal  that  was  in  Salear’s  possession  ; she  was  in  a great  petal 
the  quantity  we  had  eaten,  though,  as  before,  w e got  not  half  enough 
Whether  the  old  man  was,  or  was  not  interested  in  the  expenses  o 
board,  was  a matter  that  we  could  not  ascertain,  but  he  scoldec 


haddock’s  narrative* 


83 


jout  our  over-eating,  as  hard  as  Salear  herself.  Soon  after  breafe- 
st,  the  old  man  ordered  several  of  us  into  the  back  yard,  and  set  us 

(work  in  removing  some  dirt.  We  dug  down  about  two  feet  deep, 
|id  in  a space  of  perhaps  two  yards  square,  to  seme  planks,  which 
fing  lifted  up,  there  opened  to  our  view  a large  vault  of  barley  in 
e sheaf.  The  old  man  went  down,  and  passed  up  as  much  of  it  as 
::  thought  necessary.  We  covered  it  over,  and  left  it  as  we  found 
and  then  sweeping  clean  a place  on  the  ground,  we  threshed  it 
it  with  long  sticks,  and  put  it  in  bags  for  use.  The  grain  was  per- 
ctly  dry,  and  in  good  order.  This  manner  of  keeping  grain  was 
•w  to  me.  1 was  desirous  of  ascertaining  the  size  of  this  vault ; but 
e old  man,  upon  my  asking  him  about  it,  gave  me  to  understand 
at  it  was  none  of  my  business. 

This  plentiful  supply  of  barley  encouraged  us  to  expect  that  we 
ould  now  fare  better.  With  her  fanning-basket,  Salear  cleaned  it 
r parching,  and  my  chief  mate  officiated  as  chief  parcher,  and  he 
owned  it  well.  In  the  mean  time,  one  of  our  number  was  appoint- 
l to  pilfer  a little  of  it,  and  stow  it  away  in  our  lodging-room,  for 
to  eat  between  meals.  That  business  was  arranged  and  con- 
icted  so  judiciously,  that  we  were  able  to  provide  for  ourselves  to- 
rably  well,  and  without  being  detected. 

The  barley  being  parched,  one  of  cur  men  began  the  grinding  of 
The  mill-stones  for  this  purpose  were  about  1 8 inches  in  diame- 
r,  and  three  inches  thick  ; in  the  centre  ol  the  bed-stone  was  a hole 
illed  through,  in  which  v\as  a wooden  spindle,  running  upwards  5 
6 inches;  in  the  running-stcnc  there  was  a hole  large  enough  to 
■ceive  the  spindle,  and  leave  room  at  the  sides  to  put  in  the  grain  ; 
i!  one  side  was  a hole  drilled  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the  stick 
at  is  held  by  the  hand  in  turning  the  stone  ; with  the  right  hand 

Ie  stone  was  turned,  while  the  grain  was  fed  in  by  the  leit.  The 
ain  being  a little  browned,  and  made  brittle,  a man  could  grind  as 
uch  of  it  in  tw  o hours  as  w e all  got  for  a.  whole  day.  After  it  w as 
found,  Salear  with  her  basket  fanned  out  the  bran  in  a most  admi- 
■ble  manner ; and  she  used  to  say  that  even  that  was  too  good 
r us. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  vermin  becoming  intolerably  troublesome  to 
e,  I betook  myself  to  the  shady  side  of  the  wall  of  our  prison,  in 

Ider  to  give  some  of  them  their  discharge.  Upon  taking  off  my 
othes,  the  skipping  ones  made  off  with  themselves  very  readily,  and 
ich  were  their  size  as  1 had  never  seen  before  ; they  might  be  fair- 
rated as  of  the  first  class ; — but  the  crawling  ones  could  not  be 
it  rid  of  so  easily.  While  I was  thus  busily  engaged,  1 saw  at  a 
stance  a venerably  looking  old  man  approaching  me ; his  head 
id  his  beard  very  white,  and  his  step  slow : he  eyed  me  very  at- 
ntively  while  I was  putting  on  my  clothes,  and  at  length  accosted 
e thus  : — “ Christian  Rias,  from  whence  ?”  1 answered  him  as 

ell  as  I could,  and  then  walked  towards  the  gate  and  called  to 
aura,  who  came  to  me,  and  we  all  three  sat  down  together.  The 
d man  informed  me  that  he  lived  in  the  valley,  between  the  place 
je  were  now  at,  and  the  sea  ; that  he  had  heard  there  were  some 


94 


paddock’s  narrative. 


Christians  here,  and  had  come  to  see  them ; and  he  reached  me 
piece  of  honey-comb,  nearly  as  large  as  my  hand,  part  of  whicl 
gave  to  Laura,  and  quickly  ate  the  remainder  myself.  This  c 
man  said  to  me,  that,  in  his  younger  days,  he  had  been  accustom' 
to  go  to  Agader  and  Svvearah,  where  he  had  traded  with  the  Chr: ! 
tians ; that  they  were  always  good  to  him,  and  he  had  a better  oj 
nion  of  them  than  his  neighbours  had,  and  should  even  love  thei 
if  they  would  only  renounce  their  religion,  which,  inasmuch  as  M 
hornet  was  truly  a prophet,  must  evidently  be  wrong.  He  wishil 
to  know  of  me  where  we  were  wrecked,  what  goods  we  had,  ai 
what  sums  of  money.  I told  him  that  the  ship  was  in  ballast,  ai 
had  but  little  money,  as  it  was  going  for  salt,  which  required  b1 
little  to  purchase  it  with.  When  I told  him  this  story,  he  could  n 
understand  it,  nor  could  I satisfy  him  upon  the  point.  The  reastj 
seems  evident : ours  was  perhaps  the  first  ship  wrecked  on  tb 
coast,  that  was  empty  ; the  English  ships  wrecked  there  were  gen  * 
rally  Guineamen,  which  had  goods  that  were  valuable  to  those  ro 
bers.  When  I,  in  my  turn,  came  to  ask  him  about  this  country,  ar1 
particularly  concerning  a certain  fresh-water  river,  (wishing  to  lean 
something  about  Nun  river,)  or  of  a town  called  Widnoon,  or  any  othi 
town  in  the  country  w7here  a market  was  kept ; he  was  constant!) 
ready  for  evasive  answers  to  my  questions.  I asked  him  what  the; 
did  w ith  all  the  wheat  and  barley  they  raised  ? to  which  he  repliei 
they  sold  it  in  Swearah,  where  it  brought  a good  price  ; and  whe 
it  did  not.  they  kept  it.  I wanted  to  be  informed  of  their  vault: 
The  barley  we  had  taken  up  that  very  day,  was  cut  at  least  one  yes[ 
before,  and  the  grain  and  straw  still  good  and  bright ; and  I was  pai 
ticularly  desirous  to  find  out  by  what  means  they  were  enabled  t| 
keep  their  grain  so  long  under  ground,  uncorrupted  and  fair.  But 
could  learn  nothing  about  it  from  this  old  man.  In  him,  as  in  all  th 
other  Arabs  that  I had  any  acquaintance  with,  I found  a constant  re 
luctance,  or  rather  an  utter  unwillingness,  to  give  any  informatio 
about  their  country. 

After  half  an  hour’s  conversation  with  my  aged  visiter,  our  me 
joined  company  with  us,  and  to  them,  at  least  to  some  of  them,  b 
gave  a little  of  his  honey-comb.  At  last  the  old  gate-keeper  cam 
out,  when  they  two  saluted  each  other,  and  entered  into  discoursi 
together  on  various  subjects,  such  as  the  season,  the  crops,  and  si 
on.  Towards  night  he  departed,  and  I never  saw  him  more.  Hi 
was  the  only  fat  Arab  I ever  saw  there,  and  he  was  nearly  white 
and  was  well-made. 


PACDOCk’s  NARRATIVE 


93 


CHAP.  IX. 

hie  orderly  manner  of  (he  Arabs’  herds  and  flocks — The  wretched  dress  and  disgust- 
ing manners  of  our  female  visiters— -Our  aflliction  by  the  plague  of  iice — Ahamed 
arrives,  and  brings  with  him  Bob,  the  other  English  boy — The  joyful  meeting  of  the 
boys — ’Price  of  tobacco — Ahamed’s  remark  on  chawing  it — Adventure  in  the  wheat- 
field — Remarkable  tallness  of  the  wheat  there — Instance  of  the  power  of  habit— The 
fenewal  of  Ahamed’s  invectives  and  reproaches  upon  the  Christians,  for  their  injus- 
tice and  cruelty  to  the  negroes — ’Alarming  conference  between  our  masters  and  cer- 
tain strangers,  on  the  subject  of  marketing  us — Preparations  for  our  journey  to 
3wearah  or  Mogadore— My  last  farewell  to  the  never-to-be-forgotten  Salear — The 
commencement  of  our  journey — We  behold,  for  the  first  time,  real  trees— Descrip- 
tion of  an  Arabian  cloak— Numerous  herds  and  flocks  seen  by  us,  as  well  as  dwell- 
ings— The  prices  of  live  stock — • Ahamed’s  invective  against  the  shipwrecked 
Christians  for  hiding  their  treasure  from  the  true  believers,  to  whom  God  had  given 
t — His  horrid  tale  of  a numerous  crew  of  a large  ship,  murdered  to  a man  by  him- 
self and  the  other  Arabs. 

Our  boys,  when  sent  ^after  wood,  frequently  stole  away  to  some 
jighbouring  house,  where  they  generally  got  milk  to  drink,  and 
:me  victuals  to  eat.  This  kept  our  old  gate-keeper  constantly  in 
net.  He  said  he  had  orders  to  keep  us  at  home  ; that  there  were 
threat  many  bad  people  thereabouts,  and  if  they  found  us  rambling 
5 road,  we  should  be  stolen  away  by  them,  and  never  see  Swearah. 
Hr  boys  told  us  they  found  in  their  rambles,  that,  from  the  tops  of 
ft  highest  hills,  they  could  see  the  ocean,  which  seemed  to  them  at 
it  more  than  sis  or  eight  miles  distance,  and  that  the  country  all 
und  was  covered  with  grain.  Half  the  land  which  we  saw  from 
( r residence,  was,  I will  presume  to  say,  covered  with  wheat  or 
Irley.  The  flocks  were  well  watched.  It  was  surprizing  to  see 
leks  and  herds,  of  sheep,  goats,  horses,  and  camels,  together 
Uh  a few  horned  cattle,  feeding  on  dry  grass  and  wild  oats,  along 
tj  very  edges  of  the  grain,  and  never  touching  it.  The  wild  oats 
ure  very  plenty  on  these  hills.  I was  informed  by  the  old  gate- 
1 eper,  of  places  where  these  wild  oats  had  been  growing  for  some 
’ars  before  any  had  been  sown  there  as  seed;  that  when  ripe,  the 
bed  fell  into  the  ground,  and  thence  sprung  up  in  a new  crop,  but 
tit  they  degenerated  every  year,  till  at  last  they  did  not  vegetate  at 
; . I gathered  myself  several  heads  of  these  wild  oats,  and  found, 
i thing  in  the  husk,  which,  to  all  appearance,  could  vegetate.  Their 
irley  often  grows  from  the  waste  grain,  but,  in  this  way  of  its  vege- 
t:ing,  it  soon  runs  out.  How  the  barley  came  in  the  places  where 
1;  had  gathered  and  ate  it,  while  we  were  with  the  mountaineers,  I 
! ver  could  learn. 

During  our  stay  here,  we  were  visited  every  day  by  one  or  more  ol 

< r masters,  the  reapers,  who,  when  going  back,  never  omitted,  as  I 

< n recollect,  to  give  our  keepers  a charge  not  to  let  us  ramble  abroad, 

; fear,  as  they  said,  of  notice  of  it  being  given  to  some  one,  who  they 
: spected  would  in  such  case  rob  them  of  their  property,  by  stealing 

away.  The  neighbouring  Arabs,  merely  out  of  curiosity,  often 
lied  here  to  look  at  us,  and  to  make  such  remarks  upon  us  as  were 
mmon  with  them.  Partly  for  this  reason,  the  women  belonging  to 


96 


paddock’s  narrative. 

our  enclosure  grew  very  tired  of  us,  as  being  the  means  of  increasi 
their  own  labour.  Salear,  whenever  our  men  failed  of  gatheri 
fuel  enough  for  her,  used  to  call  upon  these  women  for  assistam 
which  greatly  stirred  their  ill-humour.  The  males  belonging  to  t| 
neighbouring  families,  were  engaged  at  that  time,  as  we  supposed,: 
cutting  and  harvesting  their  grain,  so  that  our  full-grown  visit! 
were  mostly  females.  These  women,  while  with  us,  used  to  e 
ploy  themselves  in  combing  their  long  black  hair,  and  staining  th 
finger-nails  with  a reddish  colour,  such  as  they  were  very  proud  Ij 
As  to  washing  themselves,  that  made  no  part  of  their  business, 
home  or  abroad.  In  regard  to  their  clothes,  if  clothes  they  may 
called,  they  consisted  of  one  garment  only ; that  is  to  say,  an  ( 
haick,  first  worn  and  nearly  worn  out  by  the  husband,  and  then  tui 
ed  over  to  the  wife.  This  haick  covers  the  body  from  the  bre 
down  to  the  knees.  I think  I never  saw  an  Arab’s  wife  with  a n 
garment  on.  Besides  combing  and  painting,  they  had  anotl 
amusement  which  took  up  a considerable  part  of  their  time : wh 
they  were  with  us,  they  spent  an  hour  or  two  every  day  in  picki 
off  their  lice,  and  dropping  them  upon  the  ground — never  destr< 
ing  a single  one  of  them.  I have  often  lain  down  in  the  yard,  wJ 
my  face  towards  the  ground,  and  seen  great  numbers  of  those  v • 
min  travelling  from  place  to  place.  This  strange  sight  was  fi 
noticed  and  mentioned  by  one  of  our  English  boys,  and  that  excili 
the  curiosity  of  the  rest.  Some  expressed  it  as  their  belief,  tl 
taking  the  whole  of  this  enclosure  into  the  reckoning,  it  would  a1- 
rage  at  least  one  of  a very  portly  size,  to  every  four  square  inches : 
surface.  I believe  myself  that  they  were  more  numerous  still.  | 
merely  this  recital  of  mine  should  so  affect  the  fair  part  of  my  reel 
ers  as  to  make  their  flesh  crawl,  what  would  be  their  feelings,  wc  ■ 
they  themselves  doomed  to  a condition  similar  to  that  we  wc 
then  in ! 1 

But  after  all,  these  vermin,  together  with  the  general  filthiness 
our  situation  and  mode  of  living,  gave  but  little  disturbance  to 
though  we  had  ever  been  quite  unaccustomed  to  the  like  befor 
for  all  this  time  our  appetites  were  keen,  and  so  distressing  and 
constant  was  the  anxiety  of  our  minds,  with  respect  to  our  futu 
destiny,  that  what  might  have  been  intolerable  to  us  under  other  c 
cumstances,  was  scarcely  minded  now. 

On  the  first  of  May,  we  having  then  been  five  days  in  this  horril 
place,  Ahamed  arrived  here,  bringing  with  him  Bob,  the  other  En 
lish  boy — the  same  he  had  spoken  of  as  intending  to  go  for,  ai, 
buy.  By  his  account,  he  had  walked  four  days  in  a south-easte 
course,  before  he  came  to  the  place  where  he  found  him,  and  h; 
been  four  days  on  their  travel,  from  the  time  they  started  off  tog 
ther  to  come  here.  Starting  from  a point  about  south  from  us,  the 
must  have  come  a hundred  and  twenty  miles,  of  which  nearly  01 
hundred  miles  was  through  as  rich  a country  for  flocks  and  grain 
we  were  then  in  ; that  is,  according  to  such  scanty  information  as  v 
could  get,  for  it  suited  not  Ahamed  to  be  questioned  upon  these  ms 
ters.  He  found  Bob  just  recovering  from  the  plague,  and  unable 


paddock’s  narrative. 


■97 


1.1k  any  distance,  and  therefore  bought  an  old  horse  to  bring  him. 
ie  poor  boy  was  reduced  to  a mere  skeleton.  There  was  such  a 
oicing  between  him  and  the  other  two  boys,  his  shipmates,  as  it 
mid  be  difficult  to  describe.  They  fawned  around  him,  and  ask- 
him  twenty  questions  in  the  time  he  could  answer  one.  We  mix- 
with  them,  and  heartily  partook  of  their  joy ; at  this  happy  meet- 
5 even  Ahamed  seemed  pleased.  Bob  said  it  must  have  been  six 
( mths  since  he  had  heard  a word  from  any  of  the  crew,  and  he  had 
Ipposed  them  all  dead.  So  lost  was  the  poor  boy  to  all  recollec- 
m,  that  he  could  not  tell  which  month  in  the  year  it  then  was,  and 
ich  less  could  he  tell,  with  any  exactness,  in  what  direction  or  from 
hat  point  he  had  come.  He  said  that  Ahamed  and  himself  kept 
the  edge  of  the  desert,  and  that  in  one  day  after  they  left  the 
be  he  had  lived  among,  they  saw  appearances  of  vegetation,  such 
little  spots  of  barley,  and  of  other  vegetables. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  Ahamed,  his  sister  Salear,  who  had  been 
"sent  a little  while,  came  in,  and  their  meeting  seemed  very  friendly, 
e presently  inquired  of  her  how  we  came  there  ? This  question 
e was  quick  to  answer,  and  in  doing  it  she  represented  our  charac- 
rs  to  him  in  lively  colours  ; upon  which  he  seemed  very  much  dis- 
eased, and  soon  went  to  the  field  to  visit  his  reapers,  from  whom 
I got,  no  doubt,  a repetition  of  the  story  she  had  told  him.  In  the 
(,sk  of  the  evening,  Ahamed  and  his  reapers  all  came  here,  and  they 
fere  joined  by  several  of  the  neighbours,  who  we  found  held  Aha- 
jod  in  great  repute.  On  the  outside  of  the  building  they  formed  a 
ircle,  and  soon  began  to  move  round  the  pipe.  We  could  not  find 
■ it  their  discourse,  for  the  want  of  our  English  boys  to  listen  to  it, 
:id  give  us  the  interpretation.  Jack  was  asleep,  and  Laura  was 
ightily  taken  up  with  Bob,  with  whom,  as  it  should  seem,  he  had 
irmerly  been  on  very  friendly  terms.  It  was  about  10  o’clock,  by 
e time  they  had  got  through  with  their  conversation,  and  then  they 
sime  in  for  supper.  We  of  course  had  none  till  they  had  done, 

ihen  we  fared  better  than  we  expected.  After  supper,  they  all 
ent  off  excepting  Ahamed,  whom  we  left  talking  with  Salear : for 
irselves,  we  retired  to  our  cabin.  In  the  morning  ot  ^the  3d  of 
lay,  I found  that  Jack  had  not  been  with  us  during  the  night, 
hich  strengthened  my  former  suspicions  of  zohat  decency  forbids 
\e  to  mention. 

Ahamed  appearing  in  a little  better  humour  than  the  evening  be- 
)re,  I asked  him  when  he  intended  to  carry  us  to  Swearah  ? He 
nswered,  As  soon  as  his  barley  should  be  all  cut  and  secured,  all 
Thich  was  nearly  done  already.  As  to  the  manner  of  their  securing 
oat  barley,  I have  no  doubt  they  put  it  under  ground  in  the  field. 
IJjpon  this,  he  soon  went  off,  and  returned  to  us  again  about  noon, 
ind  with  him  came  several  Arabs,  to  whom,  as  it  seemed,  he 
' ras  selling  tobacco.  The  money  he  took  had  the  appearance  of 
iase  metal,  but  on  examining  I found  it  pure,  but  very  badly 
oined.  He  had  several  pieces  of  this  money,  which  he  permitted 
ie  to  examine ; it  appeared  somewhat  less  than  an  English  six- 
pence. Observing  the  quantity  of  tobacco  that  he  exchanged  for 


#ar  rAUDOCIirS  X A RITA  T 1 V,B«  . 

One  of  these  pieces,  anti  making  my  computation  from  that,  it  brough 
here,  as  nearly  as  I could  judge,  at  the  rate  of  eight  Spanish  dollar! 
to  the  pound.  As  I was  much  attached  to  tobacco,  I begged  hin 
for  a small  piece  to  chew.  Fie  refused  at  that  time,  but  a littli 
piece  he  gave  to  Laura,  who  put  it  in  his  mouth,  which  displeasin' 
Ahamed,  he  said,  “ Christians  are  bad  in  everything;  tobacco  ii 
made  to  smoke,  and  nobody  but  a Christian  dog  would  eat  it/'  jj 
Finding  I could  get  nothing  by  begging,  I endeavoured  to  persuadi 
him  that  if  lie  would  give  me  a little,  F would  repay  him  in  Swearal 
with  ten-fold  the  quantity ; but  my  promise  to  pay  had  no  bette: 
success  with  him  than  my  begging,. 

At  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  the  reapers  all  came  to  us,,  bringing 
along  with  them  a quantity  of  fresh  beef,  and  we  soon  found  fronji 
them  that  the  barley  was  all  secured,  and  that  the  meat  was  of  a covj 
they  had  taken  from  Ahamed -‘s  herd.  The  company  that  evenin; 
was  fully  double  im  number  to  that  of  our  masters  w'ho  they  wen 
we  could  not  learn,  but  found  out  that  some  of  them  were  from  i 
distance.  They  all  joining  in  a circle'  as  heretofore,  the  master  o 
my  mates  now  gave  me  his  tobacco  to1  keep ; not  his  exclusiveh  I 
for  I believe  it  belonged  to  several  of  them  in  joint  partnership.  I 
was  now  that  Rias  was  often  called  upon  to- supply  the  pipe,  and  a 
each  time  he  carefully  rolled  up  the  skin,  and  tied  a string  aroum 
it.  Of  this  evening’s  conversation  we  were  the  subject,  and  in  ad 
dition  to  F.aura,  we  now  had  Bob  to  listen  for  us.  They  talked  c 
Swearah  as  a place  for  obtaining  a price  for  our  ransom,  and  als 
Elie,  as  a place  where,  though  wc  might  not  fetch  so  high  a price, 
it  was  more  easy  to  carry  us.  This  sort  of  conversation  of  their 
added  greatly  to  our  troubles.  To  comfort  us,  however,  we  got 
good  supper  of  boiled  meal  and  broiled  beef,  of  which  last  each  o 
us  had  perhaps  two  ounces,  and  then  we  crawled  into  our  cabin  i 
When  we  were  by  ourselves,  this- conversation  of  the  Arabs  we  talk 
ed  over  together,  and  enjoined  it  upon  the  boys  to  take  every  op 
portunity  to  learn  the  determination  of  our  masters  concerning  us. 

In  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  May,  I took  a seasonable  opportunity 
to  mention  to  Ahamed,  that  as  his  grain  was  all  secured,  he  nov 
would  be  at  leisure  to  march  us  on  to  Swearah.  Salear  being  pre 
sent  at  the  time,  she  told  her  brother  that  I had  promised  to  send  he 
on  from  that  place  a looking-glass,  a comb,  and  a large  handker- 
chief. lie  looked  at  me  with  a smile,  and  asked  me  if  I really  in 
tended  to  give  her  the  things  she  mentioned  ?'  I told  him  I did ; anc 
moreover  that  I would  give  her  some  beads  and  rings  for  her  flip! 
gers.  “ Now  I believe  you,”  replied  Ahamed  ; “ you  shall  go  soon,; 
and  you  shall  ride  the  horse  I bought  for  Bob,  as  Bob,”  added  he 
“ is  growing  stronger  every  clay/’  Upon,  saying  this,  he  was  call  , 
ed  away  by  some  of  the  strangers  F have  spoken  of,  with  whose 
looks  we  were  not  pleased  ; and  besides,  the  nature  of  the  last  even 
ing’s  conversation  raised  a jealousy  in  our  minds  that  they  had  beer 
bargaining  for  us.  When  Ahamed  was  gone,  and  we  left  to  our 
selves  again,  I asked  Bob  if  he  knew  where  the  Arabs  depositee 
their  grain  ? I was  particularly  inquisitive  upon  this  point,  because 


. TaDDOCtFs  narrative. 


e never  yet  Iiad  seen  any  thing  like  a barn.  But  Bob,  I found, 
as  no  less  ignorant  of  the  matter  than  we  were. 

. I was  soon  after  called  away  to  furnish  tobacco  fora  few  who  were 
poking  under  the  shade  of  the  walls.  When  they  had  done,  my 
;econd  mate,  who  was  as  fond  of  tobacco  as  myself,  queried  with 
le  as  to  the  propriety  of  robbing  the  pouch  of  a little ; we  did  so, 
nd  divided  the  spoil  among  such  of  otir  -company  as  were  tobacco 
hewers.  Not  long  after,  some  new  company  having  come,  I was 
ailed  upon  again  to  bring  the  pouch ; and  the  fellow,  -on  opening 
L charged  me  with  stealing  from  it.  Against  that  charge  I defended 
lyself  as  well  as  I could,  but  I was  by  no  means  -acquitted  of  blame, 
ut  on  the  contrary  was  threatened  with  severe  punishment  if  I 
aould  ever  presume  to  do  the  like  again.  This  small  supply  of  the 
feed  was  only  an  aggravation,  as  it  but  increased  our  longing  after 
lore.  For  some  time,  however,  I was  unwilling  to  make  the  ha- 
irdous  attempt  again ; but  at  last,  while  the  Arabs  now  were  all 
ring  asleep  under  the  shade,  I proposed  it  to  my  second  mate  that 
e two  should  go  off  together  to  some  distance,  where  we  might 
ave  an  opportunity  of  taking  out  some  in  such  a manner  as  not  to. 
e suspected.  For  this  purpose  we  made  choice  of  a wheat  field, 
hich  lay  but  a few  hundred  yards  from  us.  We  had  entered  .the 
eld  but  a few  paces,  when  we  found  ourselves  completely  hidden 
om  iheir  view,  even  while  standing  up  erect  on  our  feet.  Al~ 
lough  he  was  five  feet  and  eleven  inches  in  height,  and  myself  five 
:et  and  ten,  the  heads  of  the  wheat  were  above  our  own  heads. 
This  was  the  finest  piece  of  wheat  I ever  saw  ; it  was  all  well  head- 
J.  Had  we  not  gone  among  it  and  took  its  measure,  we  should 
ave  known  it  was  very  tall,  but  never  could  have  told  how  tall, 
iter  making  our  observations  on  the  wheat,  we  sat  down  and  com- 
ic need  the  particular  business  that  we  went  upon;;  taking  special 
: otice  of  the  turns  of  the  string  and  knot  of  the  pouch,  in  which, 
•'hen  we  had  unrolled  it,  we  found  two  little  sticks,  laid  in  such  a 
tanner  as  to  detect  me  in  my  nest  attempt  upon  it,  and  doubtless 
pr  that  purpose.  Having  opened  the  tobacco,  we  took  out  as  much 
f it  as  we  durst,  and  re-placed  the  little  sticks  as  exactly  as  possi- 
le ; when  we  rolled  it  up  again,  putting  round  it  the  string  just  as 
|?e  found  it,  and  hurried  out  of  the  field. 

This  story,  trifling  in  itself  as  it  may  seem,  goes  to  add  to  the  in- 
umerable  proofs  of  the  marvellous  power  of  habit  over  the  appe- 
tites. Notwithstanding  the  sharp  and  distressing  sufferings  we  had 
? >een  enduring  under  the  privation  of  the  essential  necessaries  of 
Ife,  and  from  which  we  were  now  in  some  measure  relieved,  yet  the 

Iight  of  a useless,  not  to  say  poisonous  weed,  which  we  had  beer, 
ccustomed  to,  raised  in  us  such  an  intolerable  craving,  that  we  were 
eady  to  obtain  it  at  every  risk. 

■ Within  a few  minutes  after  we  had  come  near  our  habitation,  I 
[ Leard  myself  called,  the  Arabs  having  now  assembled  within  the 
rails,  and  formed  their  circle  for  smoking.  I gave  the  fellow  that 
ailed  upon  me  the  tobacco  pouch,  and  upon  opening  it,  and  finding 
he  turns  of  the  strings  all  right,  and  the  two  sticks  remaining  just  as  he 


100 


paddock’s  narrative. 


supposed  he  had  left  them,  he  turned  to  Ahamed  and  said,  £*  He  1 
not  opened  it  this  time and  he  went  on  to  make  some  obser 
tions  concerning  my  taking  some  of  his  tobacco  before,  directing 
speech  to  Ahamed,  who  swore  in  great  anger  that  if  1 should  to 
the  least  piece  of  tobacco  from  his  pouch,  he  would  kill  me.  P 
sently,  however,  the  conversation  took  a different  turn,  and  tli 
went  on  in  their  usual  way  with  their  pipe  and  their  stories.  Sale 
since  the  time  I had  promised  her  some  presents  from  Swearah,  I 


been  a little  more  accommodating  toward  me.  In  the  dusk  of  the  evi 


ing,  I found  Ahamed  with  her,  and  the  boy  Jack  sitting  by  their  si 
and  I ventured  to  place  myself  among  them.  She  reminded  me  of 
promise  I had  made  her,  of  the  glass,  and  those  several  other  thir 
which  the  women  there  so  highly  value ; and  I at  the  same  time 
lemnly  declared  to  her  that  I would  fulfil  that  promise.  'Upon  tl 
Ahamed  made  some  inquiries  of  me  with  regard  to  the  manufactures 
my  own  country,  which  I answered  as  well  as  I could ; and  I took  i 
liberty  to  tell  him  how  much  better  he  would  be  treated  than  we  1 
been,  if  by  accident  he  should  be  thrown  on  our  shore  ; that  in  si 
an  event,  instead  of  being  held  in  bondage,  and  sold  from  tribe 
tribe,  our  Sultan  would  have  him  conducted  back  to  his  native  coi 
try  in  safety:  whereas  he  still  held  us  in  slavery,  and  several  p 
sons  had  been  here  already  in  order  to  purchase  us  for  market™ 
the  interior  ; and  all  this,  notwithstanding  he  could  get  a great  p 
for  our  ransom  from  our  Consul,  who  was  distant  only  a few  dc 
journey. 

He  heard  me  out,  and  then  warmly  retorted  upon  me  as  follott 
u You  say;  if  1 were  in  your  country,  your  people  would  treat 
better  than  I treat  you  : there  is  no  truth  in  you ; if  I were  there 
should  be  doomed  to  perpetual  slavery,  and  be  put  to  the  hard 
labour,  in  tilling  your  ground  •,  you  are  too  lazy  to  work  yourseh 
in  your  fields,  and  therefore  send  your  ships  to  the  negro  coast,  a 
in  exchange  for  your  useless  trinkets  with  which  you  cheat  the  pc 
negroes,  you  take  away  ship-loads  of  them  to  your  country,  fre 
which  never  one  returns  ; and  had  your  own  ship  escaped  our  shoil. 
you  yourself  would  now  be  taking  off  the  poor  negroes  to  everla 
mg  slavery.” 

Although  the  purpose  and  concerns  of  my  voyage  had  been  ve 
different  from  what  Ahamed  suspected,  yet  I felt  the  sting  of  this  i 
proachof  his,  in  a manner  that  I can  never  forget.  Before  I coti| 
make  any  reply  to  him,  lie  turned  to  Jack,  who  confirmed  what 
had  then  said.  It  appeared  that  Jack,  often  before,  had  told  the] 
that  the  English  ship  in  which  he  had  been  wrecked  was  bound 
the  negro  coast  for  slaves,  and  he  acknowledged  he  had  told  the| 
how  the  negroes  were  treated  in  the  West  Indies.  The  Arabs  ther 
selves  make  slaves  of  all  the  negroes  that  come  within  their  powe 
but  Jack  had  told  them  that  we  make  slaves  of  every  man  of  a dai 
skin,  and  whether  negro  or  Arab  we  cared  not.  There  was  so  muc 
truth  in  the  cutting  reproach  which  Ahamed  bestowed  on  Christian 
so  called,  that  prudence  dictated  silence  on  my  part,  at  that  time 
grid  indeed  at  any  other  time  I must  have  admitted  that,  what  he  sai 


FABDOOk’s  NARRATIVE. 


10! 

as  but ‘too  true.  After  this  unpleasant  discourse  was  ended,  we 

I it  silent  for  some  time,  and  then  Ahamed  says  to  me,  “ In  a day  or 
vo  we  shall  be  ready  to  depart.” 

On  the  3d  of  May,  we  were  visited  by  a great  number  of  stran- 
brs,  who,  in  one  of  their  smoking  parties,  fell  into  much  debate 
nong  themselves  ; and  as  there  was  no  dependence  upon  Jack,  I 
ssired  Laura  and  Bob  to  get  within  hearing,  and  endeavour  to 
arn  the  subject  of  it ; and  Laura  being  a very  artful  boy,  laid 
iwn  near  them,  and  feigned  himself  asleep.  Their  conversation, 

> I was  informed  by  him,  was  principally  relating  to  the  manner  in 
hich  they  might  dispose  of  us  to  the  best  advantage.  One  of  the 
rangers  that  were  there,  asserted  that  the  English  consul  was  una- 
le to  buy  so  many  of  us,  and  that  if  they  should  carry  us  to  Elie, 
e Jews  there  would  -buy  us  all.  Others  objected  to  that  plan,  and 
:id,  the  plague  still  raged  in  Elie,  for  which  reason  we  should  not 

Itch  any  thing  there,  or,  at  most,  according  to  the  last  accounts,  not 
awards  of  thirteen  dollars  each.  Again,  there  were  some  of  them 
ho  thought  it  best  to  divide  us  into  two  separate  companies,  and 
[my  a part  of  us  to  Elie,  and  the  rest  to  Swearah,  alleging  that 
e younger  one's  especially,  would  go  off  best  at  the  Elie  market, 
hey  broke  up  at  last,  without  coming  to  any  settled  determination 
inspecting  the  manner  of  disposing  of  us. 

After  Laura  and  Bob  had  joined  us,  and  given  us  information  of 
hat  had  been  going  on,  we  were  very  much  alarmed.  As  soon  as 
1 opportunity  offered,  I talked  with  our  chief  about  Swearah  ; 1 
Id  him  how  many  friends  i had  there,  and  how  rich  the  consul  was, 
\f  this  means  opening  the  way  for  him  to  make  his  remarks  upon 
iat  subject.  He,  upon  this,  expressing  some  doubts  as  to  the  ivealth 
: the  consul,  I endeavoured  to  explain  to  him  that  the  consul  was 
at  to  pay  for  our  ransom  in  his  own  individual  or  private  capacity; 
iat  it  was  our  king,  or  sultan,  (as  he  termed  it,)  to  whom  the  consul 
?nt  for  money,  and  of  whom  he  had  it  whenever  he  wanted  it.  This 
:emed  to  satisfy  him  for  the  moment.  The  conversation  1 had 
ith  him  he  then  rapeated  to  the  others,  but  they  did  not  believe 
hat  I had  said.  Some  of  our  chiefs,  said  they,  have  lately  been 
: Swearah,  and  have  reported  that  the  consul  there  is  poor  ; that  he 
ept  no  horses  nor  servants,  nor  bought  goats5  skins,  sheep’s  wool, 
or  any  thing  else.  However,  Ahamed  said  at  last,  that  we  were  all 
) go  olf  to-morrow,  and  that  preparations  for  it  were  then  making  ; 
lis  we  had  already  discovered  of  ourselves,  by  their  grinding  bar- 
i iy,  and  by  certain  other  kinds  of  business  which  we  perceived  them 
■Usily  engaged  about.  Bed  time  now  came,  and  we  crawled  into 

iur  room,  and  went  to  sleep. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  May,  ive  were  awaked  early,  and 
)und  them  all  in  a hurry  at  preparing  for  a departure.  At  about 
o’clock  we  took  our  leave  of  this  horrid  place,  when  Salear  fol- 
nved  us  out  of  die  yard,  and,  with  her  last  farewell,  bawled  out  to 
' ie,  “Rais,  remember  my  things.”  To  which  I briefly  answered, 

1 should  not  forget  her  ; nor  did  I ever  forget  her,  nor  ever  shall  I. 
he  was  about  the  ugliest  looking  woman  I ever  saw,  about  four  feet 


102 


VABDOCK/S  NARRATIVES. 


and  six  inches  high,  squab,  or  thick  round,  ill  shaped,  petala: 
crabbed,  savagely  ferocious,  and  all  this  in  the  very  worst  sense 
the  words.  Her  dress  was  nothing  but  a nearly  worn  out  haic 
which  she  wrapped  round  her,  so  as  to  extend  from  considerat 
above  her  kness  to  considerably  below  her  breasts,  which  were  era 
mously  large.  Her  cheek  bones  were  high,  her  eyes  small  a 
black,  her  colour  that  of  dark  copper ; her  teeth  were  line,  a 
were  the  only  clean  things  we  discerned  about  her.  W e all  had  rt 
son  enough  to  remember  her.  Forget  you!  no  no,  Salear,  It: 
never  forget  you. 

I mounted  the  old  horse  that  had  been  bought  for  Bob,  and  i 
took  the  foot  path  leading  down  the  valley,  near  the  place  whe 
lived  the  old  man  who  had  brought  us  the  honeycomb.  The 
seemed  much  more  harmony  among  our  present  owners  than  the 
had  been  among  those  who  had  owned  us  before  ; I say  our  presi 
owners,  because  we  found  that  another  barter  had  been  made  wi 
us  at  the  last  stopping  place,  and  that  some  of  us  had  been  sold 
the  new  comers.  There  were  of  them  eighteen  in  number,  and  hxj 
we  had  been  apportioned  among  them  it  was  hard  for  us  to  find  ofj 
In  following  this  valley  down  we  discovered  some  trees,  and  tl 
was  a sight  new  to  us,  as  we  had  before  seen  nothing  deserving  t 
name  of  tree.  On  one  of  these  trees  I discovered  figs  growing,  a 
some  others  of  them  had  the  appearance  of  olive  trees;  the  Aral 
did  not  seem  willing  that  we  should  examine  them.  The  couti 
of  the  valley  was  about  north-east;  and  after  travelling  neap 
four  miles,  and  passing  several  habitations  like  the  one  that  we  h 
left,  we  turned  off  to  the  right.  While  passing  over  very  liii 
ground,  from  the  tops  of  these  hills  we  could  sometimes  see  fifty, 
more,  of  such  dwellings  as  have  already  been  described  by  m< 
some  of  them,  however,  were  very  large,  with  enclosures  of  two  i 
three  hundred  yards  square,  as  seemed  from  their  appearance.  0 
leaders  appeared  not  disposed  to  make  a halt  abreast  of  any 
them,  without  being  desired  to  do  it  by  some  of  the  inhabitant: 
they  rather  chose  to  avoid  these  places,  and  so  drove  on  with 
much  speed  as  they  could  well  make.  By  this  time  our  people 
shoes  were  all  worn  out,  and  the  skin  of  the  cow,  killed  at  Ahamed  i 
field,  had  furnished  them  with  sandals.  My  boots  had  been  wo: 
out,  and  gone,  long  before,  but  Ahamed,  to  my  great  relief,  he 
found  a pair  of  old,  but  very  good  shoes,  which  no  doubt  had  b 
longed  to  some  unfortunate  sailor.  Here,  though  somewhat  out 
place,  I will  observe,  that  many  of  the  Arabs,  particularly  the  mo ; 
able  ones,  carry  along  with  them,  and  occasionally  wear,  a hcacle 
cloak,  much  resembling  in  shape  those  worn  in  this  country  by  tl 
quaker  women,  and  when-they  are  on  a journey,  they  tie  up  the 
meal  in  the  head  of  this  cloak,  which  hangs  down  their  back,  be- 
tween their  shoulders. 

By  noon,  Bob  complained  of  fatigue,  and  could  not  keep  up  wit 
the  company,  and  to  him  1 gave  up  the  old  horse,  and  made  out  mj 
self  to  get  along  tolerably  well  on  foot.  About  the  middle  of  tl 
afternoon  we  halted  in  a valley,  where  we  found  an  old  well,  fro. 


paddock's  starkative. 


1 0,j 

tich  each  of  us  got  a good  drink  of  water,  and  had  with  it  a very 
jail  quantity  of  raw  meal ; and  then  we  hastened  on  again,  over 
fcly  land,  all  abounding  with  wheat  and  barley,  and  well  stocked 
v.h  very  large  flocks  and  herds  of  sheep,  goats,  and  camels,  Yvith. 
t ir  keepers.  Some  of  these  flocks  require  three  shepherds  to 
Ibh,  to  keep  them,  especially  during  the  growth  of  the  grain.  Upon 
lung  such  immense  flocks,  I asked  Ahamed  (yyJio  now'  and  then 
Yuld  talk  with  me  freely  for  a short  time)  about  the  value  of  their 
£ ck ; and,  from  what  I could  learn  of  him,  a sheep  was  rated  at 
tween  two  and  three  ounces,  a cow  (their  cows  were  very  small) 
■from  thirteen  to  eighteen  ounces,  a jack  at  two  ounces,  and  a goat 
■two ; an  ounce,  with  them,  being  the  tYvelfth  part  of  a dollar.  A 
enmon  horse  w7as  three  dollars,  and  a fine  one  thirteen.  Ahamed, 
a^r  giving  me  this  information,  was  silent. 

n this  afternoon’s  march  yvg  found  the  travelling  very  bad,  and 
Irse,  as  we  thought,  than  it  would  have  been  if  Yve  had  kept  near- 
e:he  habitations  that  yvc  so  frequently  saw,  for  there  the  foot  paths 
*re  smooth.  At  dusk  we  got  into  a good  path,  and  wrere  walking 
»ng  very  moderately,  Ahamed,  Jack,  and  myself,  ahead  of  the 

It,  when  the  old  man  said,  if  he  got  as  much  money  for  us  as  he 
;ht,  he  should  be  rich.  I replied  to  him,  that  he  should  be  well 
d,  and  that  no  danger  was  to  be  apprehended  on  that  score, 
cr  a feYV  minutes  silence,  he  accosted  me  in  the  following  man- 
: “ There  is  no  confidence  to  be  placed  in  Christians,  for  Yvhen- 
r they  come  ashore  on  our  coast,  and  are  not  immediately  disco- 
rd by  us,  they  bury  their  money  in  the  sand,  as  you  yourself 
re  done,  to  prevent  it  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  true  be- 
rers.  This  can  do  you  no  good,  and  it  is  our  property.  -We 
py  earnestly  to  the  Almighty  God  to  send  Christians  ashore  here; 
I'hears  our  prayers,  and  often  sends  us  some  good  ships,  and  if 
vi  did  as  you  ought  to  do,  we  should  have  the  full  benefit  of  theme" 
then  asked  him  if  it  ever  happened  that  the  crews  of  the  ships 
cning  ashore  there  had  all  perished,  or  been  destroyed  ? To  that 
ipstion  he  ansYvered,  “It  has  happened,  and  it  was  the  will  of 
( d.  If  they  had  been  spared,  they  would  have  secreted  their 
insure,  Yvhereas  by  destroying  the  whole  of  them,  Yve  got  all  they 
Id.”  After  this,  he  went  on  to  relate  to  me  the  folfoYving  story: 
fence,”  said  Ahamed,  “ there  came  ashore  a very  large  ship.  It 
rng  some  time  before  the  creYv  Yvere  discovered,  they  had  landed 
a their  property,  and  had  covered  themselves  Yvith  their  sails, 
lien  they  were  discovered,  a small  tribe  Yvent  down  to  take  the  in 
i::>  their  possession,  but  they  fired  at  our  men,  and  some  of  them 
By  killed.  Exasperated  by  being  fired  at  by  such  dogs,  they  fell 
mn  them  furiously,  and  many  Yvere  killed  on  both  sides.  Our  men, 
filing  the  enemy  so  strong,  fell  back,  and  sending  up  for  help, 
fother  tribe  Yvent  doYvn.  They  noYV  endeavoured  to  shoYv  to  tho 
iemy  by  signs,  that  to  themselves  belonged  the  property,  and  thev 
!r  st  give  it  up.  But  not  being  able  to  come  to  an  understanding 
v.h  these  men  by  signs,  so  as  to  obtain  Yvhat  they  had  with  them  ii> 
tit  Yvoy.  they  drew  up  towards  them  in  order  to  take  itbv  force— 


104 


PADDOCIi's  NARRATIVE. 


As  soon  as  our  men  came  within  gun-shot,  they  were  fired  at  1 
them ; the  fire  was  returned,  and  all  fought  hard,  but  our  men,  r) 
being  able  to  get  at  them  with  their  long  knives,  were  repulsed  t 
second  time.  They  then  sent  up  again,  and  I,  getting  informal! 

There  were  now  tin 


of  it,  went  down,  with  all  my  fighting  men. 


tribes  of  us,  and  we  had  more  men  than  the  Christians  ; and  as  i 


tribe  was  the  largest,  the  command  of  the  whole  was  given  to  n 
We  got  down  in  the  night,  and  having  been  running  for  three  da- 
I thought  it  best  not  to  attack  them  till  the  morning,  judging  ll 
when  they  should  see  our  numbers  they  would  yield  to  us*  At  df 
light  I saw  them,  and  made  signs  to  them  to  lay  down  their  an: 
upon  which  their  camp  seemed  all  in  confusion.  At  the  momi 
we  were  prepared  to  attack  them  they  formed  themselves  in  a ck 
body,  ana  begun  to  march  off  eastward.  We  formed  ourselves 
three  divisions,  according  to  our  tribes,  and  the  chief  of  each  tri 
led  on  his  own  men.  My  tribe,  together  with  one  of  the  other  t\ 
got  in  their  front,  and  the  remaining  tribe  was  on  their  side.  1 
all  begun  oar  attack  at  once,  and,  after  fighting  a long  time,  we  1: 
killed  half  of  those  dogs,  and  then  the  remnant  left  alive  laid  do 
their  arms.  We  now  all  dropped  our  guns,  and  fell  upon  them  w 
our  long  knives,  and  every  one  of  them  we  killed;  and  their  wh 
number  we  found  to  be  upwards  of  five  hundred. 

“ After  we  had  gone  through  wil 
them  all,  and  left  their  bodies  lying  on  the  ground,  and  went  baci< 
the  ship,  and  found  that  they  had  landed  great  quantities  of  goo 
In  the  ship  we  found  guns,  iron,  sails,  powder,  and  many  other  thiilj 
valuable  to  us  ; they  had  in  the  ship  large  guns,  such  as  they  ha 
you  know,  upon  the  walls  of  Swearah.  When  we  had  collected 


these  things  together,  and  burnt  .the  ship,  we  sent  for  our  cam< 


and  carried  them  home,  and  sold  them  about  the  country.  We 
a great  deal  of  booty,  but  we  lost  more  than  a hundred  of  our  it| 
killed  in  battle.” — Thus  ended  the  story  of  Ahamed,  which  he 
late 


throughout 


in  a secmin; 


;ly  natural  manner,  and  with  so  mi! 


particularity,  that  he  described  the  coats  of  the  officers,  and  ei| 
their  buttons. 

When  he  had  done,  I asked  him  if  they  had  landed  casks,  r 
whether  they  had  built  stone  huts,  and  covered  them  with  their  sa 
and  several  other  questions  I put  to  him  relative  to  what  we  1| 
seen  near  the  harbour.  He  remained  silent  till  he  had  heard 
through,  and  then  turned  me  off  with  this  short  answer — “ Tha 
none  of  your  concern.”  Nevertheless,  1 ventured  to  inquire  of  ij 
as  to  the  lime  when  that  afl’air  happened.  But  his  reply  to  me  rj 
the  same  as  before,  nor  could  I ever  afterwards  get  one  word  rm 
from  him  about  it.  Whenever  1 attempted  it,  he  would  turn  to  Ja 
and  ask  him  what  it  was  for  that  1 wanted  to  know  concerning  l 
matter  ? Upon  inquiry,  I found  that  Jack  hod  never  heard  this  st< 
before,  nor  had  either  of  the  two  other  English  boys. 

For  myself,  I was  fully  satisfied  that  the  crew  of  the  frigate  wbl 
was  wrecked  on  that  coast  not  very  long  before,  had  all  been  m - 
my  companions  in  misfortune  were  of  the  same  o 


dered,  and  all 


paddock’s  narrative. 


105 


ion.  And  now,  having  expressed  my  own  belief,  I will  leave  it  to 
iiy  readers  to  judge  for  themselves,  after  comparing  together  all  the 
ircumstances. 

I believe  it  was  ten  o’clock  by  the  time  Ahamed  had  gone  through 
ith  his  story,  and  at  that  time  our  attention  was  struck  by  the  bark- 
ig  of  dogs  ahead  of  us,  indicating  some  kind  of  alarm  ; for  those 
rabs  who  live  in  fixed  habitations  keep  dogs,  which  spring  upon 
te  top  of  the  wall,  and  bark  there,  to  give  the  alarm  whenever  any 
jersons  are  approaching.  We  soon  got  under  the  walls,  and  had  a 
ttle  meal  boiled,  and  went  to  sleep,  after  having  this  day  travelled 
venty-five  miles  at  the  least. 


CHAP.  X. 


r I 


pother  reservoir  on  our  road — Raw  meal  of  more  lasting  nourishment  than  meal  boil, 
ed — Our  arrival  to  the  sea — The  terrific  appearance  of  its  margin — The  Foulahs,  a 
pacific  sect  of  Arabs,  resembling  the  shaking  quakers — Our  passage  through  avast 
swarm  of  locusts — The  manner  of  their  array — The  tents,  and  the  craft,  of  Arabian 
v fishermen — The  desolate  tents  of  a tribe  destroyed  by  the  piague — An  assemblage 
of  women  taunt  and  dismount  us — The  ruins  of  a town,  whose  inhabitants  Jiad  been 
all  massacred  on  a religious  pretence— Our  visit  to  the  tribe  of  Ahamed’s  brother — • 
The  mutual  salutations  of  the  (wo  brothers,  and  the  ceremonious  observances  be- 
tween them— The  murder  committed  by  Ahamed’s  brother,  on  his  own  wife,  for 
(scanting  our  food — His  indifference  about  her  while  she  lay  a dying — A speculator 
comes  to  buy  us  for  re-sale— His  singular  looks  and  garb — The  pictorial  beauty  of 
his  horse— The  manner  of  his  chaffering  for  us — Our  extreme  agitation. 

I 


(On  the  5th  of  May,  at  dawn,  we  started  forward,  and  travelled 
bout  east-north-east,  leaving  most  of  the  habitations  on  our  right. 
1 this  morning’s  travel  we  discovered,  about  their  settlements,  a 
ireat  many  more  trees  than  we  had  seen  before,  which  we  took  to 
fce  of  the  olive  and  the  fig  ; and  we  also  perceived  that  their  gar- 
lens  were  becoming  more  spacious.  At  about  the  hour  of  ten  we 
ime  to  a grand  reservoir  of  water,  resembling  the  one  that  I have 
■escribed  already,  and  we  found  the  bowl  in  the  like  situation  ; 
■ere  we  feasted  well.  The  Arabs,  after  drinking,  mixed  up  a quan- 
tify of  meal  and  water,  and  eat  of  it ; their  leavings  were  given  us, 
i nd  in  greater  plenty  than  usual.  Before  this  time  we  had  made 
le  discovery  that  raw  meal  was  of  more  service  to  us  than  that 
Inch  was  cooked,  as  we  were  not  so  soon  hungry  again  after  eat- 
)g  it.  This  difference  we  attributed  to  its  being  slower  of  diges- 
on,  and  of  course  lying  longer  in  the  stomach ; the  professional 
l.  entlemen  may  perhaps  assign  a better  reason,  but  we  could  not. 
j ffter  this  repast,  we  travelled  in  a north-east  course,  which,  by 
oon,  brought  us  to  the  sea,  when  we  betook  ourselves  along  the 
each,  and  were  overtaken  by  an  Arab  travelling  eastward,  who 
?as  invited  by  our  Arabs  to  accompany  us.  The  wind  blew  strong, 
t about  four  points  on  shore,  which  hove  on  it  a very  heavy  surf, 
"he' water,  by  beating  against  the  rocks  that  lay  below  the  sandy 
each,  was  in  such  agitation,  that  the  foam  extended  fifty  yards,  or 
lore,  into  the  sea.  To  us  it  appeared,  that  a ship  lying  among 

14 


106 


faddock’s  narrative. 


these  rocks,  must  go  to  pieces  in  a very  few  minutes,  and  that  th<!- 
would  be  but  very  little  chance,  or  rather  none,  of  a single  pers 
reaching  the  shore  in  safety.  We  continued  along  shore  all  the  ; 
ternoon  ; the  cause  of  their  taking  this  route  was  unknown  to  us,  1 
Laura  thought  it  was  to  avoid  their  being  seen  by  their  enemf 
At  dusk  we  left  the  sea,  and  soon  came  in  sight  of  inhabitants,  w 
accosted  our  Arabs  in  their  usual  way.  For  a few  minutes  i 
stopped  near  one  of  their  dwellings,  and  there  got  some  water,  aj 
progressed  onward;  we  perceived  that  they  were  in  fear  of  somj 
thing.  We  travelled  till  about  nine  in  the  evening,  and  then  brougj 
to,  near  a dwelling  place.  There  we  cooked  some  meal  over  t| 
fire,  and  lay  down,  and  slept,  but  not  so  comfortably  as  before  ; fj 
being  near  the  sea,  and  the  wind  high,  it  was  very  cold  there.  T1 
day  we  had  travelled  thirty  miles. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  we  started  away  early  from  our  loci: 
ing  place,  which  was  about  three  miles  from  the  sea  ; the  couni  I 
back  was  high  and  uneven,  and  appeared  fertile,  and  the  lit' 
towns,  as  they  may  be  called,  became  more  numerous.  I will  he 
observe,  that  when  pieces  of  land  walled  in,  contain  each  an  hij 
dred  inhabitants,  or  more,  I call  them  towns,  and  they  are  probal 
very  like  to  some  of  those  which,  in  holy  writ,  are  called  citii 
About  ten  o’clock  we  saw  a town,  larger  than  we  had  hitherto  set 
and  lying  in  the  direction  we  were  travelling.  The  sun  was  nil 
uncommonly  hot,  and  we  suffered  for  want  of  water  ; yet  the  Aral 
had  no  disposition  to  turn  olf  to  procure  any,  but  continued  to  leal 
all  the  settlements  on  our  right.  They  promised  to  stop  at  t| 
place  we  saw  ahead,  where,  they  said,  we  might  get  a plenty,  a1, 
rest  ourselves,  without  any  danger.  It  was  evident  that  they  we 
in  continual  fear  of  disturbance  from  some  quarter  or  other,  a, l 
therefore  they  hurried  on.  When  we  had  approached  near,  \ 1 
saw  no  dog,  which  was  a circumstance  very  uncommon  in  these  sil 
dements.  Going  round  the  north  side  of  this  town,  we  proceeded! 
its  eastern  side,  where  was  their  gateway,  and  we  saw  lying  befo 
it  a man,  who,  at  first,  we  thought  was  dead.  We  stood,  and  shoj 
ed  ourselves  before  the  gate,  but  none  took  notice  of  us.  One 
the  boys  speaking  to  the  man  that  was  lying  on  the  ground,  ] 
awoke  out  of  his  sleep  ; the  Arabs  then  spoke  to  him,  and  ask*1 
him  for  a bowl  to  drink  out  of;  without  making  any  reply,  he  wal 
ed  into  the  yard,  and  disappeared  from  our  sight.  As  we  stoo 
facing  the  gatewmy,  we  saw  men,  women,  and  children,  all  seer 
ingly  engaged  in  their  o'.vn  particular  occupations,  and  paying  i 
attention  to  us.  Ahamed,  upon  this,  often  exclaimed  fonla,  lafon 
— bad , very  bad.  This  kind  of  behaviour  of  theirs  appeared  veJ 
singular  to  us,  as  in  all  other  settlements  where  we  had  halted,  the 
whole  families  were  out  among  us  as  soon  as  possible,  to  grati 
their  curiosity,  and  to  turn  us  into  ridicule.  Here  the  manner 
the  families  was  quite  the  reverse  of  what  we  had  ever  seen  in  th 
barbarous  country  before,  and  we  could  not  conjecture  the  cause  1 
it.  Ahamed,  after  he  had  repeatedly  called  for  a bowl,  but  was  ui 
jiecded,  ordered  Jack  to  go  into  the  yard,  and  take  one.  The  be 


paddock’s  narrative,. 


10 1 

* ml  in,  and  walked  nearly  across  the  yard  before  he  could  find  a 
twl ; he  took  it  away,  and  came  to  the  well,  which  was  near  by, 

Id  we  all  d rank.  When  done,  A'named  says,  “ Go  on.  and  let  the 
>wl  lie  where  it  is,  you  shall  not  carry,  it  back.”  As  we  walked 
')  we  found  Ahamed  in  no  condition  to  be  talked  to  ; he  went  along 
th  the  rest  ol  them,  muttering  as  he  went.  I was  waiting  only  for 
opportunity  to  question  him  concerning  the  very  thing,  which,  of 
5 own  accord,  he  at  length  began  to  speak  about.  “ Such  fel- 
vs,”  said  he,  “are  not  fit  to  live.”  Upon  my  asking  him  who 
?y  were  ? “ They  belong,”  he  replied,  “ to  a sect  called  Foulah  ; 
:y  n°t  mix  with  the  other  inhabitants,  but  choose  to  live  al- 
jether  by  themselves,  and  arc  so  stupid,  that  if  the  Emperor  of 
irocco  should  march  an  army  to  cut  off  the  whole  race  of  them, 
•y  would  not  defend  themselves,  but  would  die  like  fools  as  they 
!«”  I asked  him  il  they  used  lire  arms.  “ No,”  he  says,  “they 
nkc  no  use  of  them,  and  if  God  were  pleased  to  send  a Christian 
ip  ashore  near  them,  they  would  not  seize  upon  the  goods,  nor 
(non  the  men,  nor  would  they  buy  a slave  of  any  kind.”  I asked 
liamed  il  they  were  numerous  ? “ No,”  he  said,  “ they  arc  not  nu- 
Iprous ; but  the  dwellings  you  sec,  on  the  sides  of  the  hills  yonder,. 
i;e  theirs,  and  in  many  other  places  are  they  to  be  found,  and 
liereverthey  arc,  they  always  keep  together  by  themselves.”  Fi- 
dly,  I asked  him  if  they  were  Mahometans  ? “ Yes,”  he  answered, 
'they  arc,  or  else  we  would  destroy  them  ; they  are  poor  ignorant 
jigs,  and  but  little  better  than  the  Christians.” 

By  some  parts  of  Ahamed’s  description  of  the  Foulahs,  I was  re- 
i.nded  of  the  religious  sect  among  us,  commonly  called  Shaking 
(.takers  ; a harmless,  industrious,  honest  people,  who  keep  by  them- 
ilves,  and  avoid  intermixing  with  those  of  the  other  Christian  sects. 
From  what  little  I could  discover  by  looking  through  the  gaie- 
ty, these  Foulahmen  were  taller  than  the  generality  of  the  wild 
•abs,  and  looked  considerably  like  the  American  Indians  in  their 
'lour  and  shape,  and  like  them,  were  tail  and  straight ; the  women 
jopeared  to  me  better  clad,  and  a little  more  decent  as  to  their  ap- 
. irel,  and  also  taller,  and  better  shaped,  than  the  other  Arabian 
amen  that  we  had  seen.  However,  my  situation  allowed  me  only 
i imperfect  view,  and  perhaps  I was  prejudiced  toward  them  by 

tihamed’s  testimony  in  their  favour;  I say  in  their  favour , because 
e most  of  what  he  related  to  reproach  them,  I thought  was  to  their 
■aise.  We  had  only  a slight  glance  into  their  garden,  which  ap- 
tared  well  ; there  were  there  several  fruit  trees,  some  of  them  in 
taring,  and  also  pompions  and  onions  of  a goodly  appearance ; 
tsides  these  there  were  many  grape  vines  in  bearing,  and  many 
her  things  that  looked  well. 

We  set  forward,  and  continued  along  near  the  shore,  in  about  an 
ist-north-east  course,  till  near  sunset,  and  then  turned  off  to  about 
south-east  course,  which  we  pursued  till  near  eight  o’clock,  when 
e heard  the  barking  of  the  dogs.  We  soon  came  to  a cluster  of 
nts,  belonging  to  a small  tribe  of  Ahamed’s  acquaintance.  Salu- 
tions  were  now  exchanged  as  usual,  and  we  were  well  received. 


108 


I’ADOOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


* 


Being  very  hungry  at  the  time,  as  we  had  taken  bat  little  all  tl 
day,  Ahamed  asked  for  a supper  for  us,  and  we  at  last  got  son 
boiled  meal.  A part  of  their  conversation  among  themselves  th 
evening  was,  as  we  learned,  concerning  the  plague  in  the  interio 
which,  by  this  time,  had  nearly  subsided  ; we  also  were  given 
understand  that  questions  were  asked  concerning  the  price  of  slav* 
in  the  interior.  This  was  a piece  of  information  very  saddening 
us  ; but  the  fatigue  of  our  bodies  predominating  over  the  anxiety 
our  minds,  we  laid  down  to  sleep,  after  having  travelled  25  miles  : 
least. 

On  the  Gth  of  May,  so  early  in  the  morning  that  the  stars  were  sti 
visible  in  the  sky,  we  proceeded  on  in  a south-east  course.  Aboil 
sunrise  we  discovered  that  the  ground  ahead  was  very  black,  an 
could  not  conjecture  the  cause  ; but  we  soon  came  to  it,  and  foun 
there  a swarm  of  locusts  travelling  southward.  The  edge,  or  side  < 
them,  was  as  straight  as  a line  ; they  were  thicker  than  they  couh 
all  stand  together  on  the  ground  • so  numerous  were  they  that  the 
crawled  over  one  another’s  backs,  all  struggling  hard  to  get  along.  Tl 
feet  of  our  camel  crushed  them  at  every  step,  and  at  every  step  the 
blood  gushed  out  in  a manner  shocking  to  behold  ; the  moment  tl 
camel  lifted  up  his  foot,  his  footstep  was  filled  with  living  locus 
crawling  over  the  carcasses  of  the  crushed  ones.  Whether  we  lool 
ed  to  the  north  or  to  the  south,  we  could  see  no  end  to  them  ; the 
covered  the  ground  for  about  half  a mile  in  width;  the  eastern  sic 
of  them  was  as  straight  as  the  western.  We  saw  no  straggling  one: 
nor  did  they  fly ; they  were  about  three  inches  in  length,  and  w] 
concluded  that  they  were  young  ones  that  had  not  the  use  of  wings 5 
This  was  the  only  swarm  of  locusts  that  we  saw.  All  the  while  w 
were  passing  over  them,  the  Arabs  were  muttering  over  somethin 
to  themselves. 

After  leaving  this  formidable  army  of  invaders,  We  proceeded  0 
southerly,  and  about  ten  o’clock  we  got  some  water,  and  a little  ra\ 
meal,  and,  while  eating  it,  wre  heard  the  noise  of  horses  coming  to 
wards  us,  which  soon  made  their  appearance.  Two  men  rod 
up  to  us,  and,  in  a very  imperious  tone,  demanded  of  us  who  w 
were,  and  to  what  place  we  were  bound.  Ahamed  told  them  h 
■was  from  his  tribe  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  and  was  bound  ti 
Swearah  to  sell  his  slaves.  They  replied,  “It  is  not  best  to  car 
ry  them  there  ; at  Elic  the  Jews  will  give  more  for  them  than  th< 
consul  at  Swearah,  and  besides,  as  the  plague  has  carried  off  s< 
many  of  the  inhabitants,  these  slaves  should  be  kept  at  least  tili  tin 
harvest,  which  is  now  coming  on,  shall  be  over.”  These  stranger 
had  with  our  Arabs  some  private  talk,  which  we  could  not  overhear 
and  then  they  went  on,  and  we  continued  our  journey.  Our  pros 
pects  now  looked  squally,  and  we  were  in  great  tribulation.  I watch  I 
ed  for  an  opportunity  to  talk  with  Ahamed,  but  he  was  uncommonly 
petulant. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  met  two  men  on  foot,  0 
whom  one  was  an  old  man,  whose  head  was  quite  bald.  It  seemcc 
that  Ahamed  knew  him  from  a distance.  When  they  met,  each  put 


paddock’s  narrative. 


109 


!|s  right  hand  upon  the  head  of  the  other,  and  inquired  “ Are  you 
'dl  ?”  Then  each  kissed  the  other’s  hand,  and  each  inquired  of  the 
iher,  “ How  did  you  leave  your  children  ? How  is  it  with  all  your 
lends?”  This  subject  of  inquiry  continued  with  them  for  some 
mutes,  when  Ahamed  asked  him  how  the  plague  was  in  his  neigh- 
lliurhood,  and  in  Elic.  In  my  neighbourhood,”  replied  the  old 
lin,  “ the  plague  has  subsided,  but  in  Elic  it  still  rages,  and  if  you 
Irry  your  Christian  slaves  there  they  will  all  die  ; at  this  time  they 
I'ntld  not  fetch  enough  to  pay  you  for  the  trouble  of  carrying  them.” 
nis  talk  continued  for  a quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then,  after  they 
Id  had  a little  private  conversation  with  our  Arabs,  the  two  men 
vmt  on.  We  now  changed  our  course  to  the  east-north-east.  Whe- 
br  this  change  took  place  in  consequence  of  that  meeting,  I did 
it  certainly  know,  but  thought  it  very  probable.  The  country 
|w  differed  but  a very  little  from  the  account  that  I have  given  of 
i before ; the  settlements  became  more  frequent,  and  the  trees,  on 
jti  sides  of  the  hills,,  were  much  larger,  the  trunks  of  many  of  them 
ling  from  18  to  24  inches  in  diameter,  but  none  grew  to  the  height 
<more  than  from  20  to  50  feet,  with  tops  branching  out  and  bushy, 
1 e the  live  oak  of  Georgia. 

All  along  from  the  time  of  our  leaving  the  grain  field  we  had  our 
firs  that  our  destination  was  not  fixed  on  Swearah,  and  every  day 
cded  to  those  fears.  Avarice  was  the  ruling  passion  of  our  owners, 
td  that  was  governed  altogether  by  their  present  interest ; if  they 
mid  have  obtained  as  much  money  by  putting  us  to  death  as  by 
sling  us,  1 verily  believe  they  would  not  have  hesitated  to  kill  us 
i.  the  spot,  any  more  than  we  should  to  kill  a dog ; for  of  humane 
1 dings  towards  Christians  they  were  completely  devoid. 

Not  long  after  tve  had  changed  our  course  to  the  east-north-east, 
had  an  opportunity  of  talking  with  Ahamed,  and  I endeavoured  to 
■nvince  him  (of  what  I had  often  tried  in  vain  to  convince  him  be- 
tf'e)  that  there  was  not  the  least  doubt  but  the  consul  would  be  hap- 
f to  see  us,  his  brethren,  in  Swearah,  and  would  immediately  pay 
f'  our  ransom  ; that  it  was  not  his  money  which  would  be  paid  for 
t but  money  belonging  to  our  sultan,  who  always  took  care  of  his 
gajects.  Altamed’s  reply  was,  “ If  I were  sure  of  that , you  should 
Ive  your  freedom  in  a few  days.”  We  soon  altered  our  course  so 
fas  brought  it  to  the  north-east,  and  avoiding  the  principal,  or 
rist  noted  places,  and  crossing  but  an  indifferently  looking  coun- 
t',  where  there  was  but  little  grain  growing,  though  there  were  many 
1 ge  flocks  in  the  valley,  we  came,  late  in  the  afternoon,  to  a small 
the  of  about  from  twenty  to  thirty  tents;  they  looked  almost  as 
]or  as  those  upon  the  edge  of  the  desert.  Here  we  got  a little 
l ter,  and  as  we  proceeded  on  we  found  the  country  more  and 
tire  barren,  and  here  and  there  some  small  drifts  of  sand,  and,  be- 
f e night,  no  habitations  at  all  were  to  be  seen ; all  around  us  were 
Wen  sands  and  sharp  rocks,  with  not  a tree  or  a shrub  to  enliven 
t'  dreary  prospect.  Their  object  in  taking  this  northerly  course 
i s,  as  we  were  informed  by  them,  to  avoid  bad  men.  We  conti- 
■ id  in  it  till  eight  or  nine  o’clock,  and  then,  instead  of  burrowing 


110 


paddock’s  narrative.* 


on  a hill  according  to  their  usual  manner,  they  brought  us  to  in  ti 
deepest  part  of  a hollow.  As  taking  up  our  lodging  upon  a hill  lit 
always  been  contrary  to  our  inclinations,  we  now  anticipated  a mo . 
comfortable  one,  but  were  soon  convinced  that  this  situation  w: 
much  colder  than  even  the  highlands  ; for,  a current  of  wind  pasi 
ing  through  that  valley,  it  blew  a very  strong  gale  all  the  nigh 
This  day  we  had  travelled  more  than  thirty  miles,  when  we  g 
stowed  much  as  usual,  as  close  together  as  possible  ; and  we  oi 
served  that  the  Arabs  birthed  themselves  around  us.  It  was  abo 
this  time  that  we  parted  with  our  horse,  on  what  account  I don’t  di 
linctly  remember,  but  think  it  v'as  because  he  was  tired  out,  orun 
ble  to  travel. 

On  the  9th  we  were  up  at  dawn,  and  moved  on  to  a hill  that  w: 
less  than  three  hundred  yards  from  the  place  where  we  had  slej 
when  there  opened  to  our  view  the  ocean  not  half  a mile  off,  and  < 
the  beach  at  least  a dozen  large  fishing  boats,  with  a number 
fishermens’  huts  near  the  shore.  This  accounts  for  our  being  plact; 
in  the  valley  the  night  before,  and  for  the  Arabs  so  cautious; 
birthing  themselves  around  us  to  prevent  our  escape.  We  we 
to  the  beach,  and  there  found  all  the  boats  in  good  order,  the  oa 
and  poles  lying  on  the  thwarts,  in  a situation  to  be  launched  off 
any  moment.  O how  w'C  regretted  that  we  did  not  know  of  this 
season,  so  as  to  have  had  an  opportunity  to  make  use  of  these  boat 
which  might  have  carried  us  to  the  Canaries  in  a very  short  timi 
It  seemed  at  the  time  that  the  Arabs  could  read  our  very  hearts, 
do  not  now  recollect  what  was  said  by  (hem  on  that  occasion,  fu 
ther  than  this  ; one  of  them  asked  one  of  our  boys  if  we  knew  how 
manage  such  boats,  laughing  the  meanwhile.  He  added,  “then 
are  several  other  fishing  places  on  this  coast.”  These  fishermc 
appeared  to  be  very  poor. 

After  getting  some  water,  which  was  very  bad,  we  marched  c 
several  miles  along  the  sea  coast,  and  then  turned  off,  in  about  s 
east-south-cast  direction,  and  soon  discovered  inhabitants.  As  v 
advanced  from  the  sea  the  country  appeared  better  ; the  soil,  and  tf 
fields  of  grain,  nearly  resembled  what  we  had  seen  before  ; the  law 
whenever  we  had  an  opportunity  to  examine  it,  appeared  a fir 
gravel ; the  trees  were  more  common,  and,  in  many  places,  wen 
some  small  groves,  also  many  fig  trees,  though  with  but  little  lrui 
We  passed  by  many  large  habitations,  all  which  we  were  careful  tj 
avoid.  Having  had  nothing  yet  to  eat,  we  complained  of  hunge 
which  could  not  be  satisfied  at  present,  as  our  stock  of  meal  was  ge 
ting  very  short ; but  Ahamed  told  us  he  had  a brother  living  not  ft 
off,  with  whom  we  should  be  in  a day  or  two,  and  then  we  shoul 
have  enough.  Very  soon  after  we  came  to  a place  where  a gfes 
number  of  tents  were  struck.  We  viewed  them,  and  found,  by  oi, 
Arabs,  that  the  inhabitants  had  mostly  died  of  the  plague,  and  tht 
when  the  tribe  became  reduced  to  a very  few,  those  few  survivoi 
took  all  the  furniture  and  turned  it  upside  down,  hauled  out  the  ter 
poles,  and  let  the  whole  fall  to  the  ground,  where  it  remained  un 
touched  ever  after ; that  such  was  their  law,  that  when  a whole  faflii 


padbock’s  narrative.  Ill 

died  of  that  disease,  no  one  might  take  their  bowl  to  dip  with,  even 
ough  he  were  perishing  for  water,  nor  could  their  flocks  be  taken 
ossession  of  by  any  process,  but  were  left  to  run  at  large,  till  some 
le  unknowing  to  whom  they  had  belonged,  takes  them  under  his  own 
s ;eping,  and  makes  proclamation  of  it  for  a given  time,  after  which 
r none  should  have  appeared  to  elaim  them,  they  are  to  belong  to 
le  present  possessor. 

r We  had  our  fears  of  some  infection  still  remaining  there,  and  kept 
i;a  little  distance.  As  to  the  Arabs,  they  all  fell  upon  their  knees, 
ltd  made  a long  prayer.  Upon  our  removing  but  a few  rods  from 
is  scene  of  desolation,  we  discovered  their  garden,  and  getting 
ier  the  fence,  each  of  us  took  away  a pompion,  and  was  eating  of 
3 with  greediness,  when  the  Arabs  perceiving  it,  they  with  great 
Iste  deprived  us  of  all  that  we  had  not  yet  swallowed,  which  was 
it  a little,  for  we  had  nearly  eat  a raw  pompion  each.  The  curses 
l;y  so  liberally  heaped  upon  us  for  this  offence  were  but  little  re* 
■<rded.  One  of  the  boys  lagged  behind,  and  got  one  large  piece 
i*iich  had  been  taken  from  us,  a share  of  which  fell  to  me,  and  it 
feted  really  well. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  a tribe  of  about  fifty  tents, 
nere  we  stopped.  All  along  it  had  appeared  that  our  Arabs  had 
Is  objection  to  visiting  the  tented  tribes,  than  those  that  lived  in 
irmanent  dwellings  ; the  reason  for  it  we  could  not  conjecture,  as 
; the  tribes  seemed  to  consist  of  the  same  sort  of  people,  excepting 
83  Foulahs.  It  was  full  time  to  stop  and  get  rest  and  refreshment, 
* most  of  us  were  very  much  worn  down  with  fatigue,  and  bitten 
f hunger,  after  having  travelled  far,  with  but  little  nutriment.  The 
j'abs  were  well  received  here,  but  as  to  ourselves,  no  wdtere  had 
v been  so  much  ridiculed.  They  were  not  sparing  of  their  vile 
(ithets,  so  common  to  these  people,  who  had  ever  viewed  us  as  a 
jor  degraded  set  of  beings,  hardly  fit  to  live  in  the  world.  The 
omen  were  foremost  in  insolence  and  abuse,  and  their  children  not 
i-  behind  them.  Most  of  the  men  were  in  the  harvest  field,  at  work 
i cutting  their  grain,  which  was  inferior,  both  in  quantity  and 
(ality,  to  what  we  had  generally  seen.  Here  we  got  water,  and  a 
Ule  raw  meal.  Ahamed  here  bought  three  asses,  to  assist  us  along 
i our  journey ; one  he  gave  me,  and  the  other  two  were  used  among 
! alternately,  as  the  needs  of  our  men  required.  We  now  were 
; le  to  move  more  speedily  than  we  could  for  the  last  several  days  ; 
83  little  animals  were  in  excellent  order.  With  the  raw  pompion, 
;d  the  little  meal  we  had  eat,  and  the  water  we  had  drank,  we  felt 
nch  more  comfortable.  The  land  had  been  less  hilly  since  we 
i me  from  the  fishing  huts,  than  we  had  found  it  before. 

Towards  night  we  came  to  large  clusters  of  trees,  some  of  which 
;re  forty,  and  others  perhaps  fifty  feet  high  ; there  were  some  of 
Rem  that  produced  a fruit,  or  a vegetable,  much  like  our  beans, 
e gathered  of  it,  and,  on  opening  the  pods,  we  found  in  them  some 
:eds,  about  four  or  five  in  each.  This  fruit  was  nauseous  to  the 
;te,  and  while  we  were  chewing  it,  the  Arabs  called  out  to  us fon - 
; — had.  As  we  could  get  no  nourishment  from  these  pods,  we  de* 


112 


paddock’s  narrative. 


sisted  from  gathering  them  ; but  though  the  fruit  was  worthless,  t 
trees  were  very  handsome.  We  did  not  get  through  or  beyo 
them,  till  after  dark,  when  we  heard  the  dogs  barking  ahead,  a 
soon  came  to  a tribe  of  about  thirty  tents,  where  the  Arabs  were  i 
ceived  as  usual.  At  about  9 o’clock  we  got  some  boiled  meal,  a 
some  indifferent  water.  We  were  so  fatigued  that  the  boys  coi 
not,  as  usual,  attend  to  overhearing  their  conversation  ; in  fact,  th< 
and  most  of  us  all,  were  asleep  before  we  had  got  any  thing  to  e 
We  discovered  that  the  meal  now  given  us  was  from  new  gra 
The  distance  of  this  day’s  travel  we  computed  to  be  more  than  th 
ty  miles  ; after  which  we  slept  well  through  the  night. 

In  the  morning  of  the  8th  we. started  on  early;  our  asses  look 
as  if  they  had  been  well  fed,  but  with  what  we  did  not  know, 
the  sun  arose  over  the  land,  we  found  it  differed  considerably  in  a 
pearance  from  what  it  had  been  ; it  had  now  become  more  hilly,  a 


might  perhaps  be  properly  called  mountainous.  About  four 


nu 

after  we  had  started  we  came  to  a tribe  of  nearly  fifty  tents.  T 
Arabs  not  intending  to  stop  here,  hurried  on  as  fast  as  possible, 
we  approached,  the  women  and  the  children,  together  with  a f 
men,  came  out,  and  made  of  the  Arabs  some  inquiries,  which  we  t 


not  understand  ; while  these  inquiries  were  making,  we  were 
moving  on,  as  our  Arabs  were  determined  not  to  stop.  The  worn 
ridiculed  us  as  we  passed  along,  and  bawled  out  to  us,  “ You  swin 
looking  dogs,  go  to  your  own  country,  we  don’t  want  you  here 
Those  of  us  who  rode  on  the  asses  were  behind  the  rest,  and  af 
us  in  particular  these  women  ran,  and,  in  a few  minutes  dismoun! 
us,  taking  the  asses  away,  and  laughing  immoderately  all  the  tin 
We  cried  out  for  help,  and  the  Arabs  discovering  the  sad  plight 
were  in,  came  back  to  us,  and,  with  much  persuasion,  regained 
us  our  beasts,  at  the  same  time  blaming  us  for  being  behind 


soon  came  to  the  field  where  were  the  men  belonging  to  this  tril 


but  we  halted  with  them  only  a few  minutes,  just  long  enough  to  c 
swer  their  inquiries,  and  then  pushed  on 

There  was  now  in  our  view  a large  town,  or  city,  covering,1 
should  suppose,  two  or  three  acres  of  ground.  The  walls  appear 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high  ; on  the  north  side  was  a large  brea 
in  the  wall;  the  Arabs  were  looking  at  it,  and  talking  about  it,  wh  i 
Jack  and  myself  were  both  sitting  on  the  animals  we  rode,  and  Ai 
med  perceiving  us  looking  that  way,  asked  Jack  if  there  were  su 
large  cities  in  England  ? The  boy  told  him  there  were  much  larg 


ones  there.  Upon  which  Ahamed  went  on  to  say,  this  city  vv 


destroyed,  and  every  soul  put  to  death  ; that  he  was  at  the  sie^ 
with  all  his  tribe,  and  he  exultingly  added,  “ We  spared  none, 
even  the  children  !”  I asked  him  the  cause  of  that  massacre ; 
which  he  replied,  “ It  contained  bad  men  ; wicked  men,  who  fear 
not  God,  and  did  not  live  like  true  lfiussulmen.”  While  I was  e 
deavouring  to  get  more  of  that  story,  he  often  put  his  hand  to  1 
scimitar,  and  boastingly  said,  “ I myself  killed  a great  many.”  B 
not  inclining  to  let  rne  know  any  more  of  it,  he  left  us,  and  join' 
the  Arabs,  who  were  ahead,  singing  and  shouting,  no  doubt  for  j 


paddock’s  narrative. 


113 


th  the  thoughts  of  that  horrible  catastrophe.  We  had  seen  two 
three  of  such  ruined  towns  before,  but,  until  now,  we  had  thought 
it  their  walls  had  probably  been  suffered  to  fall  by  neglect.  Alter 
jad  heard  this  story  of  Ahamed,  I had  no  scruple  of  their  having 
en  destroyed  by  the  natives,  in  their  wars  with  each  other,  and 
pretences  perhaps  trivial  in  themselves. 

After  we  had  left  this  place  about  two  miles  on  our  right,  we 
gged  hard  for  victuals  ; drink  was  easily  had,  the  country  being 
ckly  settled,  and  wells  common.  Ahamed  says  to  me  now, 
? ooly  mackan ,”  which  unpleasant  words  we  had  perfectly  under- 
od long  before  as  meaning  victuals  none.  He  told  us  we  should 
t eat  till  our  arrival  at  his  brother’s,  not  far  distant ; that  he  was 
: chief  of  a tribe,  and  rich,  and  that  there  we  should  have  coo/y 
ef- — victuals  plenty.  Although  the  country  was  mountainous,  the 
t-paths  were  so  beaten  that  the  travelling  was  good,  except  when 
left  the  path  to  avoid  being  seen.  All  along,  from  the  time  pf 

I-  leaving  Ahamed’s  field,  they  seemed  to  be  haunted  with  the  fear 
neeting  with  molestation  by  the  rvay,  and  this  rendered  our  jour- 
n j much  the  more  uncomfortable  to  us,  as  we  had  so  often  to  ex- 
nnge  a good  path  for  a bad  one;  particularly  it  made  our  route 
c.oked,  though,  in  the  main,  our  course  was  about  east-north-east. 

1\.bout  noon  we  took  a short  turn  to  the  left,  over  a high  hill,  and 
re  we  sawr  the  sea,  and,  in  a valley  not  far  distant,  a great  num- 
■ of  tents.  On  these  hills  were  large  flocks,  feeding  on  dry  grass, 
al  wild  oats.  No  sooner  did  we  see  these  tents,  than  Ahamed 
led  out  to  us,  in  Arabic,  “ There  is  my  brother!  you  shall  now 
Ire  enough  to  eat.”  We  approached  to  within  the  usual  distance, 

' 1 all  sat  down  except  Ahamed,  but  we  had  not  to  wait  there  long  ; 
tl  tribe  had  discovered  us  while  we  were  on  the  hill,  as  we  our- 
swes  could  plainly  perceive  at  the  time,  and  it  was  now  but  the 
■ice  of  a fewr  minutes  before  their  chief  came  to  us.  As  soon  as 
rf  two  brothers  met,  each  put  his  right  hand  upon  the  head  of  the 
o er,  then  each  kissed  his  right  hand,  and  then  they  shook  hands  5 
d l all  this  before  a word  was  uttered  by  either  of  them.  When 
tb  ceremony  was  finished,  the  chief  then  says  to  his  near  kins- 
itn,-  “ Dear  brother,  are  you  well  ? from  whence  are  you  ? where 
a you  going  ? how  did  you  leave  your  children  ?”  and,  last  of  all, 
h inquires,  “how  are  your  wives?”  To  this  Ahamed  answers, 
Dear  brother,  I am  directly  from  home  ; I am  bound  off  to  find  a 
airket  for  these  Christians  ; my  children  are  all  well ; one  of  my 
Ires  is  sick  ; we  have  travelled  a long  way  to-day  vdthout  food  ; 
llse  Christian  dogs  have  been  complaining  of  hunger,  and  1 pro- 
Died  them  they  should  have  victuals  enough  upon  our  arrival  here.” 
The  other  then  says,  “ All  is  well ; to-night  they  shall  have  as  much 
a they  can  eat ; go  to  my  tents.”  This  was  a strange  sight;  two 
fathers,  after  long  absence,  meeting  together,  going  through  as  much 
I emony  as  if  they  were  utter  strangers,  gravely  and  steadfastly 
king  one  another  full  in  the  face,  and  with  eyes  seemingly  so  pierc- 
ft  as  to  prv  into  the  depths  of  each  other’s  hearts — all  this  was 

15 


114  PADDOCK’S  NARRATIVE. 

very  singular,  and  at  the  same  time  there  appeared  in  it  someth  i 
of  dignity  or  grandeur. 

We  ail  arose  at  the  invitation  given  us,  and  followed  the  eh  [. 
Upon  our  arrival  at  the  tents,  one  was  cleared  for  our  use,  and  ts 
shelter  from  the  rays  of  the  scorching  sun  was  to  us  an  unspeaka 
relief.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  the  two  brothers  came  to  our  tt 
where  Ahamed  introduced  me  to  the  other,  as  Rais,  and  also  as  t 
bib,  adding,  1 had,  by  my  advice,  been  of  great  service  to  one  of 
wives.  The  tide  of  Rais  I was  well  content  with,  but  that  of  lib 
was  rather  grating  to  my  feelings,  as  1 feared  it  might  be  the  me; 
of  my  being  forced  again  to  some  employment  of  quackery.  L 
ra,  who  was  sitting  by  me  at  the  time,  said  to  me,  ‘ Captain,  d 
not  tell  you  that  if  you  should  have  any  thing  to  do  with  these  d- 
in  their  sickness,  you  would  be  plagued  to  death  by  them  ? You 
wrong  in  advising  any  thing  for  Ahamed’s  wife,  and  I told  you 
then.”  I felt  the  force  of  Laura’s  reproof,  and  wras  sensible  of 
error  ; yet  I hoped  that  I should  not  be  called  again  to  show  my 
lents  in  the  medical  line. 

1 took  this  opportunity  to  beg  for  victuals,  and  Ahamed’s  l 
ther  told  me  he  had  ordered  his  wife  to  cook  for  us  as  much  as 
could  eat,  and  that  it  was  now  boiling  ; he  then  left  us.  As  soor 
he  was  gone,  one  of  the  boys  went  to  his  tent,  and  found,  s 
enough,  a pot  boiling.  Our  hunger  was  so  great  that  every  min 
seemed  to  us  an  hour.  At  last,  being  informed  that  our  meal  i 
cooked,  one  of  our  boys  went  for  it,  and  found  one  pot  full  on: 
that  was  turned  out  into  a large  bowl,  and  brought  us  boiling  1 
We  could  not  wait  for  it  to  cool,  but  instantly  began  to  eat  it,  hoi 
it  was.  Reader,  if  you  have  ever  seen  a hog  run  his  nose  int 
trough  of  hot  swill,  and  observed  the  queerness  of  his  behaviour  uj 
it,  you  may  figure  to  yourself  the  appearance  we  made  while  eat 
this  meal.in  our  tent.  We  soon  found  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  ; 
scraped  it  out  clean  with  our  fingers.  We  had  learned  by  this  tin 
by  our  observing  the  practice  of  the  Arabs,  how  to  eat  this  kinc 
food  without  spoons  : the  true  manner  is  this — bring  into  close  e 
tact  the  three  foremost  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  with  the  middle  < 
placed  lower  than  the  other  two,  and  there  is  formed  a cavity  he  ■ 
ing  about  a spoonfull ; that , briskly  handled,  from  the  dish  to  ! 
mouth,  answered  very  well  for  eating  this  kind  of  food,  even  whei 
was  thinned  with  milk.  If  a little  were  spilled,  and  ran  down  <i 
bosoms,  it  was  only  the  loss  of  it  which  we  regarded  ; for  as  to 
thiness  of  appearance,  it  gave  us  not  the  least  concern. 

When  this  bowl  was  finished,  the  two  brothers  came  to  our  te 
and  asked  us  if  we  had  had  enough?  The  boys  answered,  We  ht£ 
had  but  one  potfull,  and  that  is  not  half  enough.  He  turned  fr ' 
us,  and  went  to  his  tent,  which  was  not  ten  paces  oft',  and,  in  a vq 
moderate  tone  of  voice,  spoke  to  his  wife  thus  : “ Did  I not  tell  )■ 
to  boil  for  these  Christians  both  pots  ?”  She  replied,  “ You  did,  ii 
I thought  one  was  as  much  as  they  deserved.”  Without  utten; 
another  word,  he  took  up  a heavy  club,  and  struck  her  over  i 
breast.  She  fell,  and  he  continued  to  beat  her  till  we  could  no  long 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE. 

111’  her  groans.  Ahamed  stood  motionless.  We  besought  him  to 
ercede  with  his  brother  for  her,  but  he  shook  his  head,  and  said 
rlhing.  When  this  old  man  had  done  beating  his  wife,  he  called 
a woman  in  the  next  tent,  and  ordered  her  to  boil  a pot  of  meal 
i us,  and  added,  “ I will  see  if  my  orders  can’t  be  obeyed.”  Upon 
s,  he,  together  with  Ahamed,  walked  back  to  the  place  where  the 
n of  his  tribe  were  sitting  on  the  ground,  and  he  seemed  as  little 
composed  as  if  he  had  been  beating  a dog.  This  shocking  act 
inhumanity  seemed  to  chill  every  drop  of  blood  in  our  veins.  As 
'agely  as  these  women  had  all  along  behaved  towards  us,  1 be- 
re  we  should  have  been  willing  almost  to  starve  to  have  saved 
)•  life,  or  rather  than  have  been  the  occasion  of  her  losing  it  in  this 
>cking  manner.  That  horrid  deed  clearly  demonstrated  to  us  that 
:se  men  thought  as  lightly  of  taking  away  life,  as  their  threats  to 
had  frequently  indicated.  For  our  lives,  they  cared  no  further 
n their  value  to  them,  in  money , would  amount  to.  Some  little 
e after  the  chief  had  left  his  wife  in  this  mangled  condition,  I 

!it  in  one  of  the  boys  to  see  if  she  w7as  dead,  who  staid  some 
e,  and  1 heard  him  talking  there  with  the  woman  that  was  cook- 
;.  When  I had  called  him  back,  he  said  she  was  still  alive,  that 
; head  was  considerably  swoln,  and  that  her  neck  and  breasts, 
re  bruised  very  much  ; and  that  the  women  there  observed,  “ She 
1 die  soon,  and  to-night  we  will  bury  her.” 

There  being  large  quantities  of  muscles  about  the  place  we-  were 
which  was  not  far  distant  from  the  sea,  several  of  our  men  were 
liirous  of  getting  some,  and  they,  along  with  two  of  our  English 
ys,  obtained  permission  to  go  after  them.  They  wrere  gone  but 
short  time  before  they  returned  with  a plenty  of  excellent  and 
ge  ones,  and  reported  that  the  rocks  were  covered  with  them; 
lese  they  were  not  long  a roasting,  and  their  smell  was  very  re-^ 
shing  to  us.  I regretted  very  much  that  I could  not  take  part 
th  them  in  this  fare,  but  such  had  been  my  bodily  habit,  that  no 
id  of  shell  fish  could  be  made  to  lie  on  my  stomach  longer  than 
dose  of  tartar  emetic,  and,  in  fact,  it  had  the  same  effect  upon 
[|*.  Nevertheless,  hearing  these  muscles  praised  so  much  by  my 
t:n,  and  being  urged  to  it  by  my  mate,  my  appetite  prevailed  over 
j judgment,  and  I eat  one,  which  produced  in  me  no  unpleasant 
feet.  Upon  this  I fell  to,  among  the  rest,  and  eat  largely  of  them. 
Ik  the  time  this  meal  was  finished,  our  pot  of  stirabout  was  done, 
;dshe,  the  cook,  called  one  of  the  English  boys  to  bring  away  the 
i wl.  He  went,  and  took  it  to  our  tent,  where  we  agreed  to  let  it 
ol,  the  craving  of  our  appetite  being  now  somewdiat  allayed.  The 
hy  found  the  wounded  woman  still  alive,  but  said  she  was  much 
lore  swoln  than  when  he  had  seen  her  before.  When  this  food  was 

I far  cooled  as  to  be  eatable,  we  fell  to,  and  eat  the  whole,  and 
nt  the  bowl  back  to  the  tent,  with  a message,  in  these  few  words, 
e have  had  enough.  The  old  chief,  I suppose,  saw  the  bowl  re- 
rned,  and  he  and  Ahamed  came  and  inquired  of  us  if  we  had  had 
ough  ; and,  after  being  answered  affirmatively,  he  walked  to  his 
at,  and.  with  apparent  indifference,  asked  the  woman  if  his  wife 


paddock’s  narrative. 


316 

was  dead.  Receiving  for  answer  that  she  was  not  dead,  but  coul  ! 
not  live  long,  he  and  Ahamed  both  went  back  again  to  the  othiN 
men. 

We  now,  for  the  first  time  since  our  leaving  Ahamed’s  habitatioi 
had  our  appetites  satisfied,  and,  with  full  stomachs,  laid  down,  anj 
fell  asleep.  We  awoke  about  an  hour  before  sunset,  and  saw  a ma 
coming  down  the  hill,  in  the  same  foot-path  we  had  come  in,  on 
fine  grey  horse,  which  he  rode  with  great  speed  up  to  where  thes 
Arabs  were  seated.  The  old  chief  arose,  and  saluted  him  ; butw! 
being  at  the  distance  of  a hundred  yards,  could  hear  nothing  distiuc 
ly.  He  dismounted,  and  hitching  the  bridle  over  the  fore  part  < 1 
the  saddle,  he  seated  himself  by  them.  We  could  see  that  he  we 
talking  very  earnestly  ; and  very  soon  they  all  rose  up,  and  walke  i 
towards  us.  Never  scarcely  since  the  day  that  we  were  first  take 
by  the  hunters,  were  we  so  alarmed,  and  we  knew  not  for  what  causi 
His  looks,  his  shape,  his  dress,  all  differed  materially  from  what  v« 
had  ever  seen  among  the  wild  Arabs.  He  was  well  shaped,  ligl 
coloured,  and  wore  a haick  that  was  new  and  clean,  and  as  to  hi; 
horse,  it  was  seemingly  as  beautiful  as  a horse  could  be  picturet 
When  he  had  come  near  pur  tent,  he  asked  how  many  of  us  thei 
were  ; and  being  answered,  he  asked  what  proportion  of  us  weij 
boys,  whether  we  were  healthy,  and  so  forth,  making  use  of  near! 
the  same  language  that  a jocky  uses  in  buying  horses.  Their  tal 
here  was  not  long  ; soon  they  walked  off  to  a little  distance,  and  s;  : 
down.  All  three  of  the  English  boys  were  now  engaged  to  find  oi 
what  was  going  on.  They  made  out  to  get  near  enough  to  hear  th 
fellow  say  as  follows  : “ Hearing  that  you  had  slaves  for  marke 
and  wishing  to  buy,  I have  been  three  days  in  pursuit  of  you  ; 
will  give  you  so  much  (naming  the  price)  for  my  choice  of  three  (| 
them.”  None  of  the  boys  distinctly  heard  the  amount  of  the  price 
but  they  understood  Ahamed  to  answer  thus : “ If  you  will  tak 
them  all  at  that  price  you  may  have  them  ; for  since  we  have  brougl 
them  thus  far,  we  will  not  separate  them ; we  had  an  offer  for  th 
boys  before  we  started  from  home,  and  what  you  offer  is  but  a ver 
little  more  than  that,  and  we  have  been  at  great  expenses  with  thei 
since,  we  will  therefore  carry  them  all  to  Swearah.” 

“Very  well,”  replies  the  stranger,  “you  had  best  sell  a parte 
them  here,  for  the  consul  can’t  pay  for  so  many,  he  has  not  mone; 
enough;  there  is  now  a Christian  slave  not  far  oft',  whose  master  ha 
been  to  Swearah,  but  could  find  nobody  there  to  buy  him.  Ahame' 
asked  whether  this  slave  was  an  Englishman  or  a Spaniard.  “H 
is  a Spaniard,”  replied  the  other.  “A  Spaniard!”  answered  Aha 
med,  “if  he  were  mine  I would  sooner  cut  his  head  off  than  earn 
him  to  Swearah  ; I once  carried  some  Spaniards  up  myself,  and  th 
governor  took  them  of  me,  but  gave  me  not  enough  to  pay  for  thei 
victuals  on  the  way;  I will  carry  up  no  more  of  that  sort.”  Final 
ly,  the  stranger,  as  he  was  about  to  depart,  concluded  thus  : “ 1 
you  will  not  sell  me  a part  of  them,  I advise  you  to  carry  them  al 
back,  (pointing  to  the  southward,)  and  you  will  find  there  a inarke 
for  the  whole.  The  plague  there,  as  you  all  know,  has  greatl 


11? 


faddock’s  narrative, 

finned  the  inhabitants,  and  I don’t  see  how  we  shall  get  all  our 
rain  cut  and  taken  care  of.  ” My  readers  may  conceive,  but  1 
innot  describe,  what  our  feelings  were  upon  our  being  given  to  un* 
er stand  the  meaning  and  purport  of  this  conversation. 

A little  after  dark,  our  chapman  mounted  his  horse,  and  rode  off. 
iking  the  same  path  that  he  had  come  in.  As  soon  as  he  was  gone, 
Jiamed’s  brother  said  to  him,  “ Don’t  you  carry  these  slaves  back, 
r if  you  do  they  will  all  die  of  the  plague,  and  you  will  lose  your 
oney ; if  these  people  at  the  southward  want  them,  let  them  come 
/ter  them  ; you  had  better  go  to  Swearah  yourself  beforehand,  and 
you  should  find  that  the  consul  can’t  buy  the  whole,  you  may  car- 
' a part  of  them  up,  and  you  will  then  know  what  to  do  with  the 
list.  This  cheered  our  drooping  spirits,  and  led  us  to  say  to  each 
her,  The  plague  will  sate  xis  at  last  ! 

In  the  evening  Ahamed  came  to  our  tent,  and  told  us,  with  his  own. 
outh,  what  we  had  discovered  before  by  our  English  boys,  that 
e man  who  had  been  looking  at  us  was  desirous  of  buying  a part 
‘ us  ; “ but,”  says  Ahamed,  “ those  of  you  who  belong  to  me,  I will 
ill  to  no  man  but  the  consul,  and  if  the  owners  of  the  rest  should 
T.tempt  to  market  their  slaves  elsewhere,  I will  prevent  it  if  possi- 
e.”  At  the  moment  he  was  saying  this,  I knew  too  well  that  no- 
ting could  sway  him  but  interest,  and  that  his  sole  object  was  to 
>ake  the  most  of  us  in  money.  I took  this  opportunity  to  repeat 
jain  what  I had  so  often  told  him  before,  that  if  there  had  been 
lever  so  many  of  us,  the  consul,  whether  willing  himself  or  not, 
ould  have  been  bound  by  his  duty  to  his  sultan  to  buy  us  all  at  a 
Dod  price.  Ahamed  then  ordered  me  to  repeat  again  the  promise 
made  him  when  we  wrere  in  the  desert.  This  I did,  and  with  as 
huch  sincerity  as  I ever  made  a promise  at  any  time,  or  on  any  oc- 
ision  whatever,  and  I begged  of  him  that  he  would  not  suffer  us  to 
e separated,  reminding  him  that  we  were  now  in  three  -parts  ; one 
art  at  the  wreck,  one  in  the  desert,  and  ourselves  here.  He  pro- 
lised  to  keep  us  together,  and  left  us  to  sleep,  and  a fine  night  we 
ad.  What  with  the  sumptuous  fare  of  the  day,  and  what  with  a 
;nt  now  to  keep  off  the  cold  wind,  we  were  comfortable  indeed# 
luring  the  last  day  we  had  travelled  nearly  twenty  miles. 


118 


paddock’s  narrativ®. 


CHAP.  XI. 

Our  adieu  to  Ahamed’s  brother — The  fertility  of  the  country  increases  as  we  advanc  j 
— The  vastness  of  its  grain,  and  of  the  number  of  reapers — A sight  of  St.  Cruez  froi  j 
the  top  of  a hill — A gang  of  women  hurl  stones  at  us  as  we  pass  by  them — their  re  l 
markable  force  of  muscle,  as  well  as  gift  of  tongue — Tumult  among  our  owner: 
occasioned  by  their  missing  boy  Jack — The  debate  between  the  two  opposit 
claimers  of  him,  and  the  manner  of  their  settlement — Their  way  of  eating  their  puc 
ding — My  conversation  with  one  of  the  reapers — his  inquisitiveness  after  informatio 
about  the  English  manufactures — How  the  Arabs  take  leave  of  their  entertainers- 
The  contrast  here  of  fat  and  lean  between  wives  and  husbands — Dismaying  re-af 
pearance  of  the  speculator — Our  unspeakable  distress  at  seeing  him  ajain,  an ; 
hearing  his  plausible  tale — He  fails  ofhis  object,  and  goes  offin  a rage — Our  unsuc 
cessful  attempts  to  escape  to  St.  Cruez — The  greedy  speculator  comes  again — Buj 
one  of  the  mates — Is  again  defeated — We  arrive  at  St.  Cruez — The  manner  of  cor 
ducting  us  into  the  town. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  we  were  slow  about  moving,  and  di 
not  start  till  sunrise.  At  the  moment  of  our  departure  I sent  one  c 
the  boys  to  see  whether  the  aforementioned  woman,  so  cruelly  beai 
en  by  Ahamed’s  brother,  was  living  or  dead.  He  returned,  an 
said  they  could  perceive  life  in  her  yet,  but  he  was  told  by  the  on 
that  had  cooked  for  us  the  day  before,  that  she  was  almost  gone,  ah 
would  die  very  soon  ; that  she  was  swoln  to  a great  size.  I think  : 
beyond  doubt  that  she  died  that  very  morning. 

Upon  our  leaving  this  place,  our  course  was  about  east-soutl: 
east.  We  ascended  a high  hill,  on  which  were  the  flocks  that  w 
supposed  belonged  to  this  tribe.  While  we  were  upon  this  hil 
there  opened  to  our  view  a thickly  settled  country,  lying  still  highe 
than  the  ground  we  were  upon.  We  continued  to  rise  as  we  wer 
on,  ascending  hill  after  hill,  till  nine  or  ten  o’clock,  and  then  w 
stopt  among  some  reapers,  and  eat  a part  of  the  fresh  supply  c 
meal  which  we  had  from  Ahamed’s  brother,  mixed,  as  usual,  wit! 
water.  Our  poor  little  animals  had  hard  work  to  carry  us  up  thes' 
high  hills.  As  we  advanced,  the  country  looked  still  better  and  better 
the  grain  fields  seemed  alive  with  reapers ; it  was  not  uncommoi 
for  ns  to  see  forty  or  fifty  of  them  in  a single  field.  About  noon 
when  we  were  upon  one  of  the  highest  of  these  hills,  Ahamed  criet 
out  thrice,  as  loud  as  he  could  halloo,  “ St.  Cruez  ! St.  Cruez ! St 
Cruez  !”  and  then,  pointing  to  me  a space  where  the  mountains  o 
the  Atlas  were  fallen  away,  I could  plainly  discern  what  appeared  t< 
me  a white  speck,  which  he  said  was  St.  Cruez.  Cape  Geer  wa: 
plain  in  sight,  as  was  also  the  ocean,  lying,  as  near  as  we  coulc 
guess  from  the  sun’s  bearing  from  us,  from  north-west  to  abou 
north-east.  Ahamed  now  seemed  very  lively,  as  did  also  most  o 
the  rest  of  them.  From  this  hill  I have  no  doubt  we  could  see  morf 
than  fifty  miles  in  every  direction,  and  some  hundreds  of  large  dwef 
ling  places. 

We  now  had  fresh  hopes  of  soon  being  without  the  territoria 
limits  of  these  monsters.  It  had  been  several  days  since  Laura, 
without  letting  them  know  it  was  done  by  my  desire,  had  been  en- 
deavouring to  find  out  from  them  where  the  line  had  been  run  betweer. 


paddock’s  narrative* 


119 


hem  and  the  emperor ; but  they,  no  doubt  perceiving  his  object, 
zouldgive  him  no  information  in  this  particular.  Judging  from  the 
ituation  we  were  in  for  making  observations  on  that  subject,  it 
rould  appear  that  the  country  here  was  not  wanting  as  to  wood 
. rees,  which  were  seen  in  considerable  plenty  upon  the  sides  of  the 
tills.  The  tops  of  the  Atlas  mountains  were  now  covered  with 
now,  which  at  that  time  I took  to  be  white  clouds,  that  hid  their 
ofty  peaks.  Upon  our  descending  this  high  hill,  we  lost  sight  of 
hat  grand  prospect,  and  soon  got  into  the  grain  land. 

We  came  at  length  to  a few  tents  where  there  were  only  women 
nd  children.  The  reapers  of  the  other  sex  were,  1 suppose,  at  a 
listance  off,  where  they  had  pitched  their  tents  to  remain  during  the 
larvest  time.  When  we  had  got  abreast  of  these  women,  they  de- 
ianded  to  know  where  we  were  going  ; but  the  Arabs  took  no  no- 
ice of  them,  but  hurried  along.  As  we  Christian  slaves  brought  up 
he  rear,  they  presently  began  to  assail  us  with  their  scurrillous  lan- 
;uage,  which  the  English  boys  answering  in  Arabic,  and  perhaps  a 
ittle  provokingly,  they  took  up  stones,  which  they  hurled  at  us  with 
11  their  might.  Their  stones  came  whistling  by  our  heads,  surpass- 
ng  in  swiftness  any  thing  of  the  kind  I had  ever  seen  ; but,  luckily 
Dr  us,  no  one  was  hurt.  These  women  were  larger  than  those  we 
ad  seen  before,  heavy  moulded,  masculine,  and  insolent,  to  the  ut- 
lost  extreme. 

About  four  o’clock  we  passed  by  a large  gang  of  the  reapers, 
/ho  were  near  our  foot  path.  They  spoke  to  us  as  we  passed 
long,  but  we  did  not  halt.  About  half  an  hour  afterwards  our  boy 

fack  was  missing,  and  we  being  all  examined,  it  was  found  that 
one  of  us  knew  any  thing  of  him.  Such  confusion  was  then  among 
iur  Arab  masters,  such  running  to  and  fro,  such  searching,  such  in- 
[uiring  of  all  the  people  near,  as  might  have  made  us  smile,  if  smile 
ze  could.  They  looked  like  madmen,  and  they  cursed  us  all.  At 
ast  it  was  settled  that  we  should  all  stop  where  we  were,  while  a 
iart  of  the  Arabs  should  go  back  to  look  for  the  boy.  These,  on 
nquiring  of  the  reapers,  could  get  no  knowledge  of  him,  when  some 
>f  them  continued  on,  travelling  back,  and  the  others  returned. 
They  swore  bitterly  that  they  would  cut  our  throats  if  they  did  not 
ind  him ; but  having  long  been  accustomed  to  such  language,  we 
vere  not  so  much  terrified  at  it. 

We  remained  there  till  dark,  when  we  heard  a great  number  of 
lorsemen  coming  on  a gallop,  and  perceived  that  Jack  was  riding 
behind  one  of  them ; upon  which,  Ahamed  and  the  rest  of  his  crew 
:ame  running  like  horses,  and  all  in  a foam.  I never  had  seen  the 
fid  fellow  look  so  bad,  nor  ever  had  heard  him  swear  so  hard  bv 
lalf.  Our  course  was  now  altered,  and  directed  to  about  south,  and 
,ve  thought  it  certain  that  these  horsemen  had  made  a conquest  of 
he  whole  of  us,  and  were  marching  us  back.  It  being  too  dark  to 
listinguish  among  them,  by  sight,  the  fellow  who  had  tried  to  buy 
iome  of  us  the  evening  before,  we  conceited,  nevertheless,  that  we 
leard  his  voice.  We  went  on,  as  fast  as  they  could  drive  us,  till 
about  9 o’clock,  when  suddenly  we  were  stopped,  and  turned  into  a 


i20  paddock’s  narrative, 

yard  surrounded  -with  high  stone  walls ; a fire  was.  immediate! 
made  up,  and  then  it  was  that  we  found  out  the  meaning  and  th 
amount  of  all  this  bustle.  It  appeared  that  Jack  was  behind  th 
rest  at  (he  time  that  these  reapers  spoke  to  us,  and  that  as  soon  a 
we  had  passed  by  them,  he  sat  down  under  a large  rock  ; that  the)  ^ 
on  seeing  him,  went  to  him  there,  and  that  he  offered  himself  to  then 
as  a voluntary  slave,  alleging  for  it  that  he  was  too  tired  to  go  fui 
ther.  They  secreted  him,  and  when  they  were  ready  to  go  homet 
one  of  them  took  him  up  behind,  on  horseback.  Ahamed  and  hi 
comrades  discovering  the  situation  Jack  was  in,  he  challenged  hit  ! 
as  his  property,  while  the  man  that  had  him  claimed  him  as  his  owr 
on  account  of  his  having  voluntarily  given  himself  up  to  him  as  I 
slave.  When  the  fire  was  made,  they,  after  a violent  war  of  wordfl 
agreed  to  settle  it,  on  the  condition  of  Ahamed’s  giving  the  othe 
the  sum  of  four  dollars,  and  as  he  had  not  the  money  by  him,  h 
consented  to  leave  his  gun  as  a pledge,  which  he  was  to  redeem  in  hi 
return  back.  The  old  fellow’s  anger  was  not  subsided  even  aftej 
this  settlement  was  made,  and  I told  Jack  to  inform  him  that  I woull 
make  it  up  to  him  in  Swearah.  Whether  he  believed  it  or  not,  h 
became  more  quiet. 

The  supper  was  soon  brought.  It  consisted  of  a bowl  of  thick  pud1 
dirig  to  each ; in  the  centre  of  the  pudding  was  a cavity  large  enough 
to  contain  a pound  of  butter,  and  each  clawing  up  a mouth  full  o 
the  pudding  with  his  fingers,  dipped  it  in  the  butter,  and  then  eat  ii1 
When  they  all  had  done,  the  remainder  that  they  left  in  several  t 
the  bowls,  we  got,  and  there  was  enough  of  it  to  make  us  a tolerabl 
supper.  After  supper,  one  of  the  reapers  (the  same  that  laid  clair 
to  Jack)  was  disposed  to  talk  with  me,  and  he  employed  Jack  a I1 
his  interpreter.  At  the  outset  of  our  conversation,  he  took  care  ti( 
inform  me  that  all  within  the  walls  that  surrounded  us  was  his  owil 
property,  and  that  the  little  rooms  within  its  sides  were  occupied  bj 
his  friends  and  relatives ; in  short,  he  seemed  to  assume  the  air  an< 
speech  of  a petty  prince  or  governor.  He  went  on  to  tell  me  tha 
had  he  been  so  disposed  he  could  have  kept  Jack,  but  Ahamed  bein' 
a worthy  man,  and  a true  mussulman,  he  would  scorn  to  take  sucl 
an  advantage  of  him.  As  he  proceeded,  he  was  very  inquisitive 
about  every  kind  of  English  manufacture  that  had  come  within  hi 
knowledge.  Answering  his  questions  as  would  best  suit  our  ovn 
convenience,  I told  him  that  the  art  of  making  the  most  of  these  wa; 
kept  a secret  by  those  employed  in  them,  which  made  them  bear  t 
higher  price,  and  that  it  required  the  practice  of  a number  of  yeas'.1! 
for  one  to  become  expert  in  any  single  branch  of  their  manufactures 
He  was  most  of  all  desirous  to  know  how  gunpowder  was  made,  oi| 
what  ingredients  it  was  composed,  and  whether  myself  or  any  oi 
my  men  knew  how  to  make  it.  I,  at  the  beginning,  saw  his  object 
which  was  to  learn  of  me  if  any  of  us  were  mechanics.  In  regard  to 
his  last  subject  of  inquiry,  I told  him  I had  understood  that  the  arto: 
making  gunpowder  was  the  most  difficult  to  learn  of  any  of  the  Eng- 
lish arts.  “1  believe  that  is  true,”  he  said,  “ for  I have  heard  tha; 
the  Moors  are  beginning  to  make  gunpowder,  and  that  they  will  not 
l*ct  even  a brother  Moor  examine  their  works.” 


paddock’s  narrative. 


12i 


To  get  clear  of  these  interrogatories  as  soon  as  possible,  I told 
lim  that  seamen  were  unacquainted  with  any  other  branch  of  busi- 
less  besides  that  of  navigating  ships  ; and  on  the  affairs  pertaining 
3 navigation  he  did  not  seem  disposed  to  question  me.  When  an 
pportunity  was  left  me  to  question  him  in  my  turn,  I asked  him 
diat  the  distance  was  to  St.  Cruez,  and  whether  any  Christian  ships 
>ere  there  ? To  this  he  replied,  that  St.  Cruez  was  in  sight,  and 
ot  far  ofl',  that  there  were  no  ships  there,  nor  had  been  for  a long 
me ; that  all  the  ships  went  to  Swearah.  That  is  Mogadore,  said  I 
3 him.  “ Yes,”  he  answered,  “ you  call  it  so ; was  you  ever 
iere  ?”  Yes.  “ Was  you  ever  at  St.  Cruez  ?”  No.  “ Who  do  you 
now  in  Swearah  ?”  Consul  Gwin,  tasher  Court,  Jackson,  Foxcroft, 
id  many  others,  some  French,  and  some  Spaniards.  Turning  to 
hamed,  who  was  all  attention  to  this  conversation,  he  says  to  Kim, 
He  has  been  to  Swearah,  and  has  friends  there.”  He  then  con- 
uded  with  asking  me  if  consul  Gwin  had  money  enough  to  ransom 
) many  of  his  brothers  ? Without  hesitation,  I told  him  he  could 
insom  ten  times  our  number  if  they  were  brought  to  him  ; and  I 
ideavoured  to  make  him  understand  that  the  consul  did  not  pay  this 
oney  from  his  own  purse,  but  it  was  money  belonging  to  our  sul- 

(n,  who  placed  it  at  his  disposal  for  that  purpose,  and,  in  case  that 
5,  the  consul,  should  at  any  tune  be  short  of  money,  it  was  only 
r him  to  borrow  of  the  rich  merchants  till  our  sultan  should  send 
m more  This  explanation  of  mine  seemed  to  be  satisfactory  to 

fm,  and  our  conversation  was  here  closed.  1 found  him.  as  well  as 
1 the  other  inhabitants  of  this  coast  that  I conversed  with,  unwil- 
J ig  to  give  me  any  information  about  the  situation  and  affairs  of  the 
mntry.  Upon  that  point  I could  immediately  perceive  a jealousy 
fy.  every  one  of  them. 

It  being  now  about  ten  or  eleven  o’clock,  our  entertainer  rose  up, 
id  proposed  to  retire  to  sleep ; he  brought  us  part  of  an  old  tent, 

, id  said,  “ with  this  you  may  cover  yourselves.”  The  gate  of  this 
tie  city  being  locked,  we  needed  no  watching.  Our  Arabs  went 
if,  and  left  us  in  possession  of  the  fire;  we  all  lay  with  our  feet  to 
■ covered  ourselves  with  the  tent,  and  had  a comfortable  night’s 
!l  dging.  We  had  travelled  this  day  about  25  miles, 
r On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  we  were  awaked  by  the  sound  of 
te  voices  of  the  Arabs  at  prayer.  There  was  no  appearance  of 
ly  day-light  till  after  we  were  prepared  for  a march,  and  then  our 
arters  opened  the  gate  and  let  us  out.  We  departed  without  tak- 
ig  any  formal  leave  of  our  entertainers,  as  had  been  our  constant 
istom  ; for  in  no  instance  do  I remember  hearing  a word  spoken  on 
tch  an  occasion.  When  the  visitors  are  departing,  they  go  away 
silence,  taking  what  the  English  call  French  leave.  As  it  was  not 
ght  when  we  came  out  of  the  gate,  we  groped  along  but  slow,  and  in 
. .e  same  path  that  we  had  come  in.  Soon  we  saw  a foot  path  turning 
■ the  right,  and  we  took  it,  steering,  as  nearly  as  we  could  ascertain 
• y the  stars,  about  a north-east  course.  When  daylight  fairly  ap- 
' tared,  we  then,  from  a small  hill,  once  more  got  sight  of  the  sea, 
id  of  the  Atlas.  St.  Cruez  did  not  appear  to  us  much  nearer  now 

16 


122 


paddock’s  narrative. 


than  when  we  saw  it  the  day  before,  which  convinced  us  that  its  di; 
tance  was  much  greater  than  we  at  first  thought  it.  Our  situatio 
was  a very  elevated  one,  and  we  could  look  over  a vast  exteq 
of  country,  which,  anywhere  else  than  in  Barbary,  or  under  an! 
other  circumstances  than  those  we  were  in,  might  have  appearejl 
pleasant.  But  not  so  to  us,  who  were  on  the  brink,  as  it  were,  of  a| 
awful  precipice,  on  a hair-breadth  line,  between  liberty  and  slavery--| 
a slavery  of  such  horrid  shape  as  would  have  been  worse  to  us  tha| 
death  itself. 

We  descended  from  this  hill,  and  for  some  time  saw  the  Atlas  ni. 
more.  That  day  we  continued  the  same  course,  which  we  kne  jl 
would  carry  us  to  the  sea.  Near  10  o’clock,  we  came  to  a tribe  < 
about  twenty  tents,  and,  after  the  usual  ceremony  was  gone  througi 
with,  we  were  received.  The  chief  gave  us  some  raw  meal  and  sot 
milk  mixed  together.  It  was  drinkable,  but  too  thin  to  eat.  W 
drank  the  whole  of  it  up,  though  a large  quantity,  and  then  aske 
for  more,  which  was  furnished  us.  That  also  we  finished,  an 
again  asked  for  more  ; upon  which  the  woman,  who  we  supposed  we 
the  wife  or  one  of  the  wives  of  the  chief,  says  to  us,  “ More  ? yc 1 
dogs,  how  you  drink!”  Without  regarding  that,  or  any  thing  si 
could  say,  we  finished  all  that  was  brought ; while  the  whole  gan 
of  the  meagre  looking  Arabs,  and  their  corpulent  wives,  were  lool 
ing  on,  and  sharply  eyeing  us.  With  respect  to  what  I have  no 
said  of  the  leanness  of  the  one  sex  and  the  fleshiness  of  the  other,  j 
will  here  explain  myself:  we  had  observed  all  along,  that  the  fuij 
iher  we  travelled  eastward  the  larger  or  grosser  the  women  becamt! 
till  at  last  many  of  them  were  so  fat  that  they  waddled  along  rathe) 
than  walked.  This  we  found  was  regarded  as  their  beauty.  At  thl 
same  time,  this  is  thought  disgraceful  in  a man,  and  for  the  followim 
reason : they,  the  men,  were  always  engaged,  in  some  parts  of  thj 
country  or  other,  in  offensive  or  defensive  wars,  which  seemed  theii 
greatest  pride,  and  so  in  them  leanness  was  an  indispensable  requisite! 
enable  them  to  undergo  the  fatigues  of  their  frequent  skirmishes  a»J 
campaigns,  and  for  nimbleness  in  their  onsets  and  retreats.  B 
what  means  they  bring  it  about  to  fatten  the  women  and  keep  th 
men  lean,  is  a matter  best  known  to  themselves. 

About  noon  we  entered  a piece  of  woodland  on  the  side  of  a hill 
The  trees  were  very  close  to  each  other ; their  trunks  were  large  bu 
short,  ten  feet  from  the  roots  to  the  first  limbs  being  about  their  ave 
rage.  From  their  first  limbs  they  bushed  off  suddenly,  so  that  thei 
whole  height  was  not  more  than  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet.  Thi 
forest  was  perhaps  a mile  and  a half  wide,  and  through  it  there  wen 
foot  paths  in  every  direction  ; but  the  Arabs  did  not  seem  at  a los 
as  to  which  path  to  take.  When  we  had  got  through  this  woodland 
the  country  appeared  more  level,  sandy,  and  without  a single  habi 
tation  in  our  view.  We  were  pushing  on  as  fast  as  we  could  walk 
(without  our  asses,  but  where  we  left  them  I cannot  remember,)  am 
had  got  not  a mile  from  the  woods,  when  who  should  appear  but  th 
same  fellow  that  had  visited  us  while  we  were  with  Ahamed’s  bro 
ther,  galloping  up  on  the  same  beautiful  horse.  He  continued  hi 


paddock’s  narrative.  125 

allop  till  he  had  got  ahead  of  us,  and  then  stopped  and  began  to 
Ik.  We  all  stopped  ; when,  without  ceremony  or  reserve,  he  told 
ir  masters  plainly  that  they  were  doing  wrong  in  carrying  us  to 
wearah.  He  intended,  he  said,  to  have  been  with  us  the  last  night, 
■at  missed  of  us,  and  that  his  object  was  to  tell  them  what  he  had 
lizard,  which  was  this — the  English  consul  had  done  with  the  busi- 
less  of  ransoming  Christian  slaves,  as  he  had  no  money  left ; “ and 
have  seen,”  said  he,  “ several  people  from  the  interior  country, 
ho  told  me  if  you  would  bring  your  slaves  back  there,  they  would 
i ay  them  all.”  Ahamed  replied,  that  the  man  where  he  had  staid 
|ie  last  night  told  him  a different  story,  and  as  he  had  had  before 
lie  offer  of  us,  and  would  not  take  us,  and  the  end  of  the  journey  be- 
g so  near,  he  was  determined  to  go  on,  unless  he  could  bargain 
Iway  the  whole  of  us  at  once. 

He  (the  chapman)  repeated  what  he  had  said  when  he  was  with 
f ern  before,  that  he  wanted  for  himself  only  three  boys.  Nothing 
•arcely  in  this  world  could  have  been  such  a death-blow  to  us  ; we 
Good  motionless,  silently  looking  at  each  other.  The  English  boys 
yho  understood  wdiat'he  said,  and  interpreted  it  to  us,  who  made  no 
■ply)  begged  of  their  masters,  as  if  begging  for  their  lives,  that 
Ley  would  not  heed  this  fellow.  “ The  captain,”  they  said  to  them, 
knows  better:  he  has  friends  in  Swearah,  who  will  give  any  price 
r him,  and  he  will  not  suffer  any  one  of  the  rest  to  be  left  unran- 
imed.”  This  debate  lasted  for  half  an  hour,  when  the  fellow  in 
lger  rode  off  to  the  south,  and  we  hoped  never  to  see  him  again.  I 
vive  no  doubt  if  he  had  been  in  the  power  of  some  of  our  men,  he 
ould  have  been  out  of  the  way  of  endangering  us.  We  watched 
m by  looking  back,  till  he  had  entered  the  wood.  After  this,  we 
ere  hurried  on  with  uncommon  speed,  the  cause  of  wrhich  we  could 
it  then  conjecture,  unless  to  avoid  that  fellow’s  pursuit 'after  us 
rain. 

About  2 o’clock,  almost  melted  with  the  heat  and  worn  down  with 
tigue,  travelling  as  we  had  over  sandy  ground,  our  footing  giving 
ay  at  every  step,  we  came  to  a river  nearly  a hundred  and  fifty  feet 
ide,  the  water  of  which  was  salt.  One  of  the  tallest  of  the  Arabs  en- 
red  in  to  ascertain  its  depth,  and  we  soon  saw  him  over.  During 
is  passage,  the  water  flowed  nearly  over  his  shoulders.  We  all 
illowed  him.  The  shortest  of  us  were  assisted  by  the  Arabs,  and 
ion  we  were  over,  every  one  of  us.  It  then  appeared  that  the  de- 
gn  of  the  forced  march  we  had  just  been  making  was  to  get  to  this 
ver  in  season  to  cross  it  at  1owt  water.  We  discovered  that  the  tide 
as  flowing  and  running  southward,  at  the  rate  of  two  knots.  Be- 
ig  all  fatigued,  we  lay  down,  and  soon  fell  asleep.  We  had  slept 
erhaps  two  hours,  when  we  were  called  up,  and  we  supposed  that 
ie  river  had  risen  in  that  time  three  feet.  We  could  not  ascertain 
ur  distance  from  the  sea,  but,  judging  from  our  course,  and  the  dis- 
tnce  we  had  travelled  since  day-light,  we  thought  it  could  not  be- 
ery far  oft’.  Every  thing  about  this  river  had  the  appearance  of  a 
esert ; not  the  least  sign  of  vegetation — the  sand  was  blown  up 
to  little  hills  from  five  to  ten  feet  high. 


124 


paddock’s  narrative. 


We  had  been  a little  refreshed  with  sleep,  and  besides,  th  J 
thoughts  of  our  soon  being  within  the  emperor  of  Morocco’s  domi 
nions,  where  we  expected  protection,  so  cheered  up  our  spirits,  ths  I 
we  got  over  these  hills  much  sooner  no  doubt  than  otherwise  we  coulc 
We  saw  no  appearance  of  any  habitation  till  near  night ; and,  havin  i 
travelled  over  heavy  sand,  and  the  weather  extremely  hot,  we  su;| 
fered  for  water,  but  none  could  be  found.  At  length  Ahamed  tol 
us  we  should  soon  come  to  a small  tribe  of  his  acquaintance,  an) 
there  we  should  fare  well.  It  was  beginning  to  be  dusk,  when  o| 
our  rising  a hill  we  saw  St.  Cruez,  which  did  not  appear  twentj 
miles  off,  though  in  that  we  were  mistaken.  Viewing  it  from  th 
hill,  the  country  here  looked  much  like  that  on  the  edge  of  the  dc 
fiert,  mostly  sand,  with  some  dry  grass  here  and  there  ; neverthelesi 
there  were  many  camels  and  sheep  feeding  about  the  hills.  It  \va 
now  too  dark  for  us  to  see  much  of’  the  country  back. 

At  about  eight  o’clock  we  arrived  to  the  tribe  which  Ahamed  ha 
spoken  of,  which  consisted  of  about  thirty  tents;  and  from  all  an 
pearances  they  were  well  received.  After  they  had  formed  the: 
ring  for  smoking,  we  soon  found  out  that  they  were  conversing  tc 
gether  about  ourselves  ; but  they  were  more  cautiously  guarded  tha 
usual  against  our  understanding  them.  Now  and  then,  however, 
word  from  them  was  caught,  and,  as  far  as  we  could  learn,  nothing  i 
their  discourse  seemed  unfavourable  to  our  obtaining  our  ransom « 
and  this  W'as  the  more  flattering  to  our  hopes,  as  some  of  that  trib 
had  lately  been  at  Swearah.  We  got  here  but  a poor  supper,  whic  : 
consisted  of  a little  raw  meal  and  bad  water.  When  we  lay  dow' 
to  sleep,  we  found  ourselves  watched  in  a manner  a little  diflerei 
from  what  had  been  usual,  the  Arabs  lying  on  the  outside  of  us.  W 
slept  not  well : being  not  far  from  the  sea,  and  the  wind  blowin, 
strong  all  the  night,  we  lay  extremely  cold.  We  had  one  comforl 
however,  and  a very  great  one ; we  now  were  beginning  to  thin) 
ourselves  nearly  out  of  danger,  and  that  rendered  our  sufferings  th 
more  tolerable.  The  lenghth  of  this  day’s  travel  must,  as  we  thoughl 
have  exceeded  thirty  miles. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  we  started  on  half  an  hour  before 
day-light,  and  took  a south-east,  course,  and  travelled  fast.  A 
the  dawn  of  day  we  saw  St.  Cruez  far  on  our  left.  From  the  course 
we  travelled  in,  our  approach  to  it  was  very  slow,  as  its  direction 
was  toward  the  highest  part  of  the  Atlas,  which  now  for  the  firs 
time  We  plainly  perceived  to  be  covered  with  snow,  at  least  one 
fourth  part  of  the  distance  from  the  top  to  the  base.  The  Englisl 
boys  asked  the  Arabs  why  they  travelled  so  far  south,  seeing  it  made 
our  way  to  St.  Cruz  so  much  longer?  They  replied,  “ We  have  t 
river  to  cross,  and  near  the  sea  it  is  deep.”  When  the  sun  arose  i 
we  could  discover  from  the  hills  on  our  right  some  dwellings,  bui 
there  were  scarcely  any  round  about,  or  but  very  few  indeed,  noi 
could  the  soil  admit  of  much  cultivation.  About  noon  we  came  tc 
the  river,  and  then  we  could  plainly  discern  the  embrazures  in  the! 
walls  of  the  city  of  St.  Cruez.  We  took  to  the  river,  and  were  soon 
over  it,  by  means  of  the  assistance  of  the  Arabs,  who  swam,  like 


paddock’s  narrative. 


125 


;hes.  The  distance  across  I should  judge  to  be  from  two  to  three 
mdred  yards.  Whether  this  was  the  best  fording,  place  across 
is  river,  or  whether  the  Arabs  took  us  up  so  far  to  prevent  our 
nng  discovered  from  the  town,  we  were  left  to  conjecture.  We 

!ere  now'at  least  eight  miles  from  the  town,  and  were  hidden  from 
by  some  high  sand  hills  on  our  front. 

Here  we  discovered  a few  huts  a little  on  our  right,  and  the  Arabs 
'oposed  to  go  to  them ; while  we,  on  the  contrary,  begged  hard  to 

!)  directly  on  to  St.  Cruez,  to  which  we  might  arrive  in  two  or  three 
jurs.  Their  demur  about  proceeding  directly  forward,  gave  us 
msiderable  uneasiness.  The  Arabs  at  last  gave  us  peremptory 
ders  to  march  to  the  huts,  and  did  it  with  apparent  anger ; and,  as 
e were  not  sure  of  our  being  then  within  the  emperor’s  territory,  it 
is  a dictate  of  prudence  that  we  should  obey.  Accordingly  we 
lurched  on  to  this  little  collection  of  huts,  and  before  we  had  arrived 
iere,  several  came  out  and  met  us.  This  was  different  from  the 
immon  manner  of  the  Arabs  towards  strangers  approaching  their 
Veilings.  After  their  customary  question  and  answer — “ Is  it 
■ ace “ It  is  peace ” — these  strangers  invited  us  to  their  huts; 
non  which  ive  advanced  to  within  thirty  yards,  and  sat  down, 
aving  had  nothing  to  eat  during  the  whole  day,  we  were  extreme- 
\ hungry  as  well  as  thirsty.  They  soon  gave  us  some  bad  water, 
ith  a little  sour  milk ; but  on  our  begging  for  food,  the  unpleasant 
ords,  cooly  mackan , w ere  uttered  by  two  or  three  of  them  ; never- 
eless,  one  of  them  went  to  the  huts,  and  brought  us  two  or  three 
junds,  perhaps,  of  old,  dry,  mouldy  bread.  Hard  as  it  was,  and 
id  as  it  was,  we  fell  to  and  ate  the  whole,  though  one  of  our  men 
’oke  off  a sound  tooth  in  trying  to  chew  it.  With  a dozen,  or  per- 
ips  twenty,  of  these  villagers,  our  Arabs  were  very  much  engaged 
a conversation  of  which  we  were  the  subject  ; but  we  could  not 
illect  from  it  any  thing  to  our  own  advantage. 

What  I more  particularly  wanted  to  know  by  their  conversation, 
as  whether  we  were  or  were  not  in  the  emperor’s  dominions ; but 
othing  leading  to  information  upon  this  point  was  mentioned  by 
lem.  Therefore  I enjoined  it  upon  one  of  the  boys  to  endeavour, 
n the  first  opportunity  he  could  get  with  these  strangers,  to  ascertain 
lat  point ; and  if  on  making  that  inquiry  he  should  find  that  we 
ere  in  his  dominions,  to  try  to  induce  one  of  them,  by  the  promise 
f a reward,  to  carry  a letter  from  me  to  the  governor  of  St.  Cruez  : 
9;:  the  same  time  I charged  him  not  to  mention  any  thing  about  that 
rrand  till  he  was  sure  that  we  were  over  the  line,  and  within  the 
each  of  the  governor.  He  tried  several  of  them,  but  every  attempt 
roved  abortive : whenever  he  spoke  to  them  about  it,  they  shook 
leir  heads,  and  made  no  reply.  This  expedient  failing,  my  mate 
nd  myself,  without  the  knowledge  of  any  other  person,  agreed  that 
ither  one  of  us  or  both,  improving  the  first  opportunity  of  finding 
re  Arabs  engaged,  should  get  behind  one  of  the  sand  hills,  and  from 
lence  make  our  escape  to  St.  Cruez.  Such  an  opportunity  we 
ion  found,  and  got  behind  one  of  the  hills ; but  we  were  missing 
ot  a minute’s  time  before  they  were  upon  us.  Their  triumph  at 


126 


rADDOCK’s  NARRATIVE. 


finding  us  was  not,  however,  very  great.  At  the  first  it  was  agree 
upon  by  us  that  if  they  should  pursue  and  find  us  behind  the  hil 
wre  would  pretend  to  them  the  call  of  nature,  and  accordingly  th 
position  they  found  us  in  prevented  their  suspecting  us  of  the  desig 
of  running  away. 

After  this,  I soon  found  an  occasion  of  talking  with  Ahamed,  and  t 
asked  him  when  we  were  going  on  ? at  the  same  time  reminding  hill 
that  we  had  been  here  two  hours,  and  were  pretty  well  refreshec; 
He  looked  me  full  in  the  face,  and  piercingly,  as  if  he  could  read  m 
heart,  and  asked  me  what  was  my  haste  ? I pretended  I was  noth 
much  haste,  and  told  him  it  was  much  more  comfortable  travellin 
now  than  it  was' in  the  morning,  as  the  sun  was  fast  lowering,  an 
the  wind  blowing  fresh,  and  we  felt  ourselves  very  much  refreshec 
His  eyes  convinced  me  that  he  had  found  out  some  of  Laura’s  irl 
quiries  of  these  villagers  as  to  whose  territory  we  were  in  ; and  hi 
said  to  me,  “ Not  long  ago  you  were  hungry,  and  since  that  yo 
have  had  nothing  considerable  to  eat ; and  now,  hungry  as  you  ar< 
you  are  desirous  to  march  oft’,  though  there  are  two  pots  of  victua 
boiling  for  you.”  He  then  shook  his  head,  and  left  me,  and  joine 
the  company. 

At  the  moment  of  Ahamed’s  leaving  me,  the  same  fellow,  on  th 
same  gray  horse,  came  galloping  down  the  hill  on  the  other  side  e 
the  river.  I am  sure  the  devil,  in  the  most  hideous  of  all  the  hide 
ous  shapes  in  which  he  was  ever  described  by  man,  could  not  havi 
been  so  terrifying  to  us  as  the  appearance  of  this  fellow  again.  W 
all  huddled  round  him,  and  distinctly  heard  him  introduce  the  odioa 
subject,  and  thus  he  went  on  : “ Well,  I see  you  are  determined  t j 
carry  these  slaves  to  Swearah ; — 1 heard  from  there  yesterday,  an 
intended  to  have  seen  you  last  night ; but  you  took  the  lower  roac 
and  so  1 missed  of  you  : this  morning  I heard  of  you,  and  intende> 
to  have  seen  you  before  you  had  crossed  this  water, — however,  iti 
not  too  late  yet.  You  may  now  j-est  assured  that  the  consul  will  nc' 
ransom  these  Christians  : but  a few  days  ago,  an  old  man,  a frien| 
of  mine,  came  directly  from  Swearah; — he  told  me  he  saw  severs 
Christian  slaves  in  that  town,  whom  the  consul  refused  to  ransom1 
and  that  the  Arab  who  carried  them  to  that  market  could  get  no  pa; 
for  them  at  all ; but  if  you  will  only  re-cross  the  river  in  time,  you 
may  sell  every  one  of  your  slaves  at  a place  south  of  here,  anti 
which  is  within  three  days’  march.  As- 1 told  you  before,  the  plagui 
has  taken  oft’ so  many  of  our  men,  that  there  are  not  enough  of  then: 
left  to  cut  and  harvest  such  abundant  crops  as  our  God  in  his  good 
ness  hath  bestowed  upon  us,  and  these  men  I know  can  soon  lean 
to  work.” 

Our  Arabian  masters  said  but  little  in  reply  to  this  harangue,  bull 
with  us  there  was  a general  vociferation  against  it.  At  no  time  before 
this,  had  we  dared  to  interfere  in  their  conversation;  but  now  w< 
were  driven  to  extremities,  and  pleaded  as  for  our  lives.  The  Eng 
lish  boys  took  the  lead : speaking  to  them  in  Arabic,  they  refutei 
all  that  the  fellow  had  advanced;  and  they  asserted  that  I was  weli 
known  in  Swearah,  and  had  friends  there  enough  to  redeem  us  alb 

j 


paddock’s  narrative.  127 

'o  get  clear  of  our  clamours,  the  Arabs  and  the  chapman  went  off 
i some  distance  from  us,  and  talked  together  by  themselves.  From 
ue  information  already  obtained  by  us,  it  was  almost  reduced  to  a 
jrtainty  that  we  were  within  the  reach  of  the  governor  of  St.  Cruez, 
id  that  for  obtaining  his  protection  it  was  only  necessary  for  us  to 

!ake  known  to  him  our  situation  ; but  in  the  day  time  we  were 
atched  too  narrowly  for  any  of  us  to  escape  and  bear  such  intelli- 
mce  to  him.  In  this  condition  of  horrid  suspense  we  were  left  for 
Idf  an  hour,  when  Ahamed  came  back,  and  told  us  that  none  of 
ir  masters  had  consented  to  sell  to  the  fellow,  except  the  owner  of 
Bussey,  my  mate,  and  that  he  (Hussey’s  master)  had  agreed  to  sell 
m,  and  return  home  himself.  I tried  to  find  out  the  price  he  was 

I Id  for,  but  could  not.  My  poor  companion,  Hussey,  shed  tears  in 
mndance,  and  the  rest  of  us  appeared  in  great  distress.  As  to 
hamed,  all  he  said  on  the  occasion  was,  “ I can’t  help  it.”  After 
short  silence,  my  mate  put  on  his  manly  resolution,  and  said. 
Let  it  be  so ; I must  go,  but  our  separation  will  be  very  short ; I 
ill  be  in  St.  Cruez  in  the  morning.”  The  rest  of  our  conversation 
Igether  on  that  occasion  I will  omit.  To  part  with  him  in  this 
Sinner  was  more  than  we  could  bear.  Boy  Jack  was  not  to  be 
listed,  but  as  he  understood  the  Arabic  much  better  than  either  of 
<te  other  boys,  I thought  it  best  to  make  use  of  him  as  my  mouth  ; 

Jcordingly  I directed  him  to  go  to  Hussey’s  master,  and  tell  him  if 
would  not  part  with  that  man,  1 would  pledge  my  honour  that  the 
nsul  should  give  more  than  the  price  he  had  sold  him  for,  and  that 
ler  and  above  this,  I would  make  him  a present  on  our  arrival  at 
qogadore.  In  this  case,  though  perhaps  in  but  few  others,  Jack  did 
tfe  duty  faithfully,  and  the  bargain  was  broken  oif ; not,  however, 
il  after  Ahamed,  the  mate’s  master,  and  myself,  with  Jack 
Jr  our  interpreter,  had  had  a long  talk  on  the  subject.  At  sun- 
it  our  chapman  re-crossed  the  river,  and  rode  away  over  the 
111,  and  out  of  our  sight,  in  as  great  a rage  as  it  were  possible  for 
i barbarian  or  savage  to  show. 

It  being  now  sunset,  we  were  very  anxious  to  move  on  towards 
Cruez,  for  we  still  had  that  terrible  fellow  to  fear,  in  addition  to 
;sl  our  other  fears.  Move  they  would  not ; but  we  had  no  doubt  but 
te  one  or  the  other  of  us  could  find  an  opportunity  to  run  off  to  that 
lace  in  the  night.  In  our  troubles  we  had  forgot  that  we  were  fast- 
:g.  Our  supper  was  now  ready,  which  consisted  of  about  equal 
Juantities  of  meal  and  Indian  corn  boiled  up  together ; it  was  ex- 
llent,  and  we  had  of  it  full  half  enough  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of 
ir  hunger.  At  dark  the  pipe  took  its  usual  turn,  and  at  about  9 
■clock  they  brought  us  part  of  an  old  tent  to  cover  us  with ; the 
ind  was  fresh,  and  its  draught  up  this  hollow  made  it  very  cold 
lire,  which  rendered  the  piece  of  tent  highly  acceptable  to  us.  My 
ate  and  myself,  before  we  had  lain  down,  renewed  our  arrangement 
:r  being  oft' in  the  night ; and,  with  an  eye  to  that,  we  first  birthed 
1 the  rest,  and  he  and  myself  took  an  outside  birth,  and  hauled  the 
s at  all  over  us — having  travelled  this  day  15  miles.  Meanwhile 
e Arabs,  as  if  they  knew  our  plan,  birthed  themselves  on  the  out- 


12a 


paddock’s  narrative. 


side  of  us  two,  and  all  around  us,  with  their  guns  lying  across  the 
arms.  We  lay  still  till  about  midnight,  when  we  carefully  rolle 
the  tent  off  from  our  heads.  Upon  this,  the  Arab  that  was  in  fro; 
of  us  spoke;  but  we  made  no  answer.  We  laid  an  hour  longe 
when  we  made  the  second  attempt,  but  the  fellow  was  still  awakt 
and  finding  no  chance  for  the  intended  escape,  we  fell  asleep,  an 
did  not  awake  till  broad  daylight. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th,  on  heaving  oft'  our  cover,  we  saw, ; 
a little  distance  from  us,  the  Arabs  at  their  prayers.  We  suppost 
they  moved  away  to  let  us  sleep,  not  out  of  any  tenderness  of  fee 
ing  towards  us,  but  perhaps  to  answer  some  purpose  interesting  i 
themselves  ; be  that  as  it  may,  we  were  very  anxious  to  move  o; 
and  they  seemed  opposed  to  it.  We  were  soon  joined  by  the  vi 
lagers,  who,  with  our  Arabs,  sat  down  together,  and  entered  in! 
general  conversation.  Presently  after  this,  we  saw  coming  down  tl 
hill,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  nineteen  camels,  and  five  mer; 
they  crossed,  and  came  to  us.  Our  Arabs  questioned  them  as  i 
the  course  they  were  travelling,  and  finding  they  were  bound  eas 
ward,  they  engaged  them,  for  a trifling  consideration,  to  keep  1 
company,  so  that  we  might  have  the  privilege  of  riding  over  to] 
mountains  of  the  Atlas.  This  affair  being  settled,  we  took  a litt|j 
food,  of  such  kind  as  we  had  had  the  last  night,  and  which  no  doul  |) 
had  been  cooked  then  for  our  breakfast;  but  what  we  eat  cou 
hardly  be  called  breakfast , or  breaking  our  fast,  for  we  were  so  r 
joiced  with  the  thoughts  of  moving  on,  that  hungry  as  we  were  v 
cared  but  little  for  food. 

The  sun  was  fully  up,  and  even  above  those  prodigiously  hig 
mountains,  before  we  had  got  fairly  under  way.  For  several  mile 
and  to  within  two  or  three  miles  of  St.  Cruez,  we  pursued  the  dowi 
ward  course  of  the  river,  and  then  we  turned  to  the  right,  in  a d 
rection  for  that  city,  which  had  a formidable  appearance.  It  we 
situated  on  the  peak  of  a very  high  hill,  formed  by  nature  for  dt 
fence,  and  on  the  side  that  met  our  view  were  embrasures  for  guns 
it  was  natural  for  us  to  conclude  that  this  was  the  emperor’s  frontie 
town.  Next  the  water  was  a small  town,  and  all  along  below 
were  boats  hauled  up,  which  had  the  appearance  of  fishing  boat.1 
When  we  had  come  within  two  or  three  hundred  yards  of  the  lowe 
town,  we  saw  a man  skipping  down  over  the  rocks,  and  advancin 
towards  the  lower  town  with  great  speed,  having  a gun  in  his  hanc 
As  soon  as  he  had  come  within  call,  he  ordered  us  to  stop ; we 
stopt  at  a little  distance  from  the  nearest  houses,  and  he  demande 
of  us  who  we  were.  On  receiving  from  the  Arabs  an  answer  to 
question,  he  demanded  the  name  of  our  chief.  To  which  Ahame 
answered  that  he  was  chief,  and  he  gave  him  his  name,  and  tn 
name  was  called  for  next.  Upon  which  he  said  to  me,  “ You  ar 
to  appear  before  the  governor  immediately.”  My  bosom  swelle 
with  joy  at  these  words.  I called  to  Laura,  and  bade  him  folio1 
me.  I forgot  my  inability  to  jump,  and  to  run,  and  how,  in  my  fef 
ble  and  emaciated  condition,  I made  the  ascent  so  quick,  is  beyon 
my  power  to  tell.  When  we  had  arrived  at  the  gate  of  the  batter) 


paddock’s  narrative. 


129 


uich  was  in  a very  short  time,  Laura  observed  to  me,  “ Captain, 

S:  water  runs  off  your  face,”  which  was  a circumstance  that  I had 
t perceived  before.  We  entered,  I directly  following  the  soldier, 
J ura  next.,  and  Ahamed  last. 

If' 


CHAP.  XI J. 

S.  examination  at  St,  Cniez— Our  hospitable  treatment  there— The  huge  mess  of 
• )orl  set  before  us — the  personal  appearance  of  the  Moorish  governor — His  kindly 
Mentions  to  me— His  remarks  upon  the  rascality  of  the  Arabs — His  orders  to  Aha- 
-led — The  cringing  sycophancy  of  the  latter— The  circumstances  of  our  departure— 
description  of  the  battery— A view  of  the  stupendous  Atlas — The  wonderful  ma? 
|]agement  of  the  camels  in  climbing  it — The  difficulty  and  peril  the  rider  is  at  in 
keeping  his  hold— The  adventures  at  our  lodging  place — Sublime  prospect  of  the 
ft! as  as  the  jun  was  rising— The  amusing  spectacle  of  our  Arabs  buttering  their 
ieards — Description  of  the  country — Ahamed  swears  by  his  beard  to  carry  us  no 
Briber,  and  imprisons  us  in  a yard— The  resemblance  of  our  condition  to  that  of 
le  newly  imported  negroes  yarded  up  for  sale  —A  visit  in  our  yard  from  a Moor  of 
treat  respectability— The  discovery  by  us  of  the  scheme  of  our  masters  to  carry  us 
lack — Another  visit  from  the  respectable  Moor — The  awe  the  other  Moors,  and  the 
rabs,  were  struck  with  by  his  presence— His  inquiries  of  and  about  us — Another 
Biccessfu!  attempt  of  Pat  to  get  his  fill  by  amusing  the  women- — The  jealousy  anti 
|ry  it  occasioned  among  the  men — Our  narrow  escape. 

In  this  room  of  refuge,  where  we  had  so  happily  arrived  at  last, 
,ve  sitting  on  a bench  three  well  looking  men,  of  a much  lighter 
flour  and  stouter  frame  than  the  Arabs,  and  one  of  them  was  hold-, 
til  in  his  hand  a long  spy  glass.  They  ordered  us  to  sit  down,  and 
tv  did  so,  seating  ourselves  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  which  was 
ibably  from  twelve  to  sixteen  feet  square,  while  Ahamed  (not  chief 
B v)  squeezed  himself  up  in  one  corner.  Looking,  as  I did,  all 
a und  the  room,  I saw  a door  back  of  us  that  was, shut.  We  sat  si- 
it  l for  near  a quarter  of  an  hour,  these  men  all  the  time  fixing  their 
n s upon  us.  At  last,  Laura  breaking  silence,  asked  me  if  I 
■light  any  one  of  these  men  was  the  governor.  I told  him  I thought 
■was  not  there.  Then  one  of  them  asked  me  in  English  if  I were 
■Englishman?  and  upon  my  replying  that  I was,  he  said,  “ You 
■1  the  boy  both  look  like  Spaniards.”  I answered  him,  including 
Lara  with  myself,  we  are  English.  Speaking  very  slow  and  dis-> 
thtly,  he  asked  me  to  what  part  of  England  our  ship  belonged, 
pre  we  were  bound,  and  what  after,  how  large  a ship  she  was, 
a v many  poles  she  had,  what  goods  were  on  board,  and  how  much 
srney  we  had  with  us  ? In  answer  to  these  queries,  I told  him  the 
sip  belonged  to  Liverpool,  was  bound  to  the  Cape  de  Verd  islands 
f(  a load  of  salt,  that  she  was  a considerably  large  ship,  but  nof 
v y large,  that  she  had  three  poles,  (masts,)  had  no  goods,  and  but 
a ttle  money,  barely  enough  to  buy  a load  of  salt,  hie  asked  me  if 
tire  was  no  salt  in  Liverpool  ? I told  him  we  had  large  quantities  of 
it  here,  but  that  the  salt  which  we  were  going  after  was  of  another 
kd,  made  in  a hot  climate  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  that  we  were 
fr  arrv  it  to  a foreign  country,  far  away  to  the  westward,  where 

17 


paddock’s  narrative. 


13Q 

was  worth  more  money  than  the  Liverpool  salt.  Well,”  ' 
said,  “ the  next  time  you  conre  along  this  coast  keep  further  c 
ships  of  three  poles  should  not  come  so  near;  formerly,  when  i 
had  trade  at  St.  Cruex,  the  large  ships  always  laid  oft'  a great  w;| 
from  shore.”  At  that  moment  w e heard  a noise  without,  when  t. 
Moor  that  had  been  questioning  me,  instantly  says,  “ The  govern 
is  coming.”  As  he  entered  the  room,  I arose,  and  addressed  him 
English,  just  as  I should  have  done  if  he  had  understood  that  la 
guage,  the  Moor  in  the  mean  time  interpreting  to  him  what  1 hi 
said.  He  returned  my  salutation,  and  invited  me  to  sit  down,  wilt 
I did. 

He  was  a stout,  portly,  well  looking  man,  about  six  feet  hig 
and  nearly  fifty  years  old,  of  a light  copper  colour,  with  a shcj 
bushy  beard,  and  wore  a clean  white  haick,  and  neat  morocco  slij 
pers  ; his  pleasing,  manly  look,  prepossessed  me  in  his  favour ; il 
his  questions  to  me  were  pertinent  and  distinct.  The  Moor  tei 
him,  in  Arabic,  the  substance  of  the  interrogations  which  he  had  } 
to  me,  and  then  the  governor  went  on  to  ask  me  himself  sevejj 
questions  about  my  shipwreck,  the  cause  of  it,  the  time  it  happen; 
and  whether  the  Arabs  (here  present  had  any  of  the  gold  that  1 h 
lost.  After  I had,  by  and  through  Laura,  answered  all  these  qu< 
tions  to  his  satisfaction,  he  asked  me  how  this  Arab  (Ahamed)  h 
treated  me  ? Without  waiting  for  a reply,  he  continued  on,  and  sa 
“ These  Arabs  are  all  a set  of  thieves,  robbers,  and  murderers,  a 
from  time  immemorial  they  have  been  at  war  with  the  Moors  as  w| 
as  with  all  others  within  their  reach,  and  if  they  have  not  treat! 
you  well,  I will  keep  you  here  a few  days,  when  I shall  be  goi  ( 
myself  to  Swearah,  and  will  take  you  along  with  me,  and  delivj 
you  up  to  the  consul.”  Ahamed  trembled,  as  I could  plainly  pt 
ceive. 

To  answer  the . governor’s  question,  and  his  kind  proposal,! 
quired  a moment’s  reflection,  and  I previously  asked  him  if  it  wjj 
in  the  power  of  these  people  to  carry  us  back?  He  promptly  rep 
ed,  “ No,  theyr  dare  not  attempt  it;  this  is  our  frontier  town,  ai 
none  can  pass  through  it  without  my  consent.”  1 then  answer 
the  question  he  had  put  to  me  regarding  our  treatment  by  Ahame 
telling  him  that  Ahamed  and  his  companions  had  bought  us  of  a hui 
ing  party,  and  had  paid  a considerable  sum  for  us,  and  had  not  treat 
us  so  well  as  perhaps  they  ought,  but  I had  no  doubt  they  would 
better  in  this  respect  for  the  time  to  come,  and  being  so  near  Swek 
ah,  1 preferred  going  on  with  them.  He  then  asked  if  I was  hu 
gry  ? I am  both  hungry  and  very  thirsty,  was  my  reply.  Upd 
this,  he  turned  to  the  soldier  that  stood  behind  him,  and  order!1 
sorue  drink  for  me,  telling  him  not  to  be  long  after  it.  In  a ft 
minutes  he  returned,  with  some  sweet  milk  mixed  with  water, 
which  we  drank  freely.  I was  about  to  reach  the  kettle  to  Ah 
med,  but  the  governor  forbade  it,  saying,  “ That  fellow  don't  dm 
from  my  kettle .”  The  kettle  was  of  copper,  and  scoured  to 
high  polish.  After  Laura  had  drank,  I set  it  down,  and  th< 
came  the  victuals.  It  was  a dish  of  coscoosoo,  which  is  a favourij 


I’ADD.OCK/S  NARRATIVE. 


231 

111  with  the  Moors ; on  it  lay  a whole  quarter  of  a fat  goat,  the 
ht  of  which  astonished  me.  The  quantity  of  food  in  this  dish  was 
;ater  than  our  whole  company  of  eleven  had  eat  for  three  days 
jether.  The  smell  was,  to  us,  as  deliciously  fragrant  as  can  possi» 
t he  described.  I looked  at  it  for  some  time,  when  the  governor 
ai  Laura,  both  speaking  to  me  at  the  same  moment,  said,  “ Cap- 
in,  why  don’t  you  eat?”  The  truth  was,  I was  afraid  to  eat;  for 
skeen  was  my  appetite,  that  had  I fully  gratified  it  with  feeding  on 
js;h  an  excellent  dish,  I do  believe,  empty  as  my  stomach  then  was, 
Ivould  not  only  have  been  the  means  of  my  going  no  further,  but 
vuldhave  killed  me  outright.  When  we  began  to  eat,  all  their 
res  were  fixed  upon  us.  I ate  in  a manner  as  sparing  as  I could 
■ssibly  bring  myself  to,  and  finding  Laura  inclined  to  be  ravenous, 
Ippeatedly  told  him  not  to  eat  like  a hog.  One  of  the  Moors,  who 
Iperstood  that  expression,  interpreted  it  to  the  governor,  who 
ighed  heartily,  which  did  not,  however,  disturb  Laura  at  all,  but 
Y still  bolted  it  down  with  all  speed.  In  the  dish  lay  a knife,  with 
v ich  I cut  off  some  of  the  meat,  and  eat  it,  and  drank  a little  milk 
ad  water,  and  so  quitted  it,  while  feeling  near  as  hungry  as  when  I 
hi  begun.  At  first  the  governor  urged  me  to  eat  more,  but  when 
Lentioned  to  him  the  state  of  my  stomach,  he  said,  “ You  have 
fc;n  prudent.” 

■He  ordered  Ahamed  and  Laura  to  sit  still,  and  me  to  follow  him; 
( id  so,  and  he  walked  into  the  city.  I followed  him  through  two 
beets,  when  stopping  at  the  door  of  a large  house,  he  ordered  me 
tisit  down  there,  and  left  me.  While  I was  sitting  before  his  door, 
rt  very  few  people  passed  by  me,  and  none  stopt  to  gaze  at  me  ; 
It  after  passing  by,  all  turned  their  heads,  as  if  to  take  a second 
i ik.  The  children  came  to  a corner,  and  looked  at  me  round  it ; 
B' being  at  the  governor’s  door  was  what  sufficiently  protected  me, 
|9 1 supposed,  against  their  insults.  The  people  here  were  all  of  a 
- rk  colour,  and  some  of  them  black  : I now  speak  of  the  men  only, 
S'  as  to  the  women,  their  faces  were  all  covered,  except  only  a lit- 
; hole  in  their  veils,  of  the  size  of  an  eye,  which  they  looked 
rough.  The  Moorish  women  arc  not  allowed  to  go  into  the  streets 
Hess  veiled  in  this  manner. 

The  governor  was  absent  about  half  an  hour,  when  he  came  to  the 
or,  with  nearly  a dozen  thin  loaves  of  bread,  which  he  reached 
and  I do  think  they  were  the  whitest  I ever  saw.  I took  them, 
;d  stowed  them  away  about  me,  and  returned  him  thanks  for  this 
ible  present.  He  took  the  street,  and  walked  back  to  the  battery, 
nich  probably  was  his  audience  chamber.  There  he  addressed 
hnself  to  Ahamed  in  these  words  : “You  I command  to  take  these 
'iristians  to  Swearah,  and  deliver  them  over  to  their  consul  without 
: y unnecessary  delay ; in  three  days  after  this  you  are  to  arrive 
ere  ; use  them  in  the  best  manner  you  possibly  can  ; and  now  de- 
trt.”  The  governor  was  standing  when  he  uttered  this  mandate, 
tamed  was  sitting  when  I left  him,  nor  had  he,  according  to  Lau- 
’s  account,  stirred  an  inch  since  that  time;  but,  upon  hearing  the 


i'AL»UOCk'S  NARRATIVE* 


las! 

orders  of  the  governor,  he  fell  upon  his  knees,  or  rather  advanc! 
on  them,  up  to  the  governor,  and  kissed  the  hem  of  his  garment,  i 
We  now  left  the  battery.  At  the  gate  was  a soldier  in  waitir 
who  took  us  round  the  corner  of  this  room,  and  went  with  us  do\j| 
a foot  path  leading  to  the  lower  town.  This  path  was  an  excelle 
one,  and  had  we,  previously  to  our  ascending  the  Battery,  travell  l 
only  a few  rods  eastward,  we  might  have  took  it,  and  so  got  upwil 
much  less  fatigue  ; the  soldier  that  then  led  us  on,  probably  did  r 
think  of  that,  though  doubtless  he  would  if  he  had  been  as  emaciat 
and  tired  as  we  were*  When  I joined  the  men  who  had  been  r 
companions  in  distress,  I found  them  feasting  sumptuously;  thf 
had  line,  white,  fresh  loaves  of  bread,  with  dry  dates  and  water,  si 
before  them,  and  no  doubt  by  the  governor’s  order.  Instantly  up  j 
my  appearance,  every  one  of  them  was  desirous  of  knowing  from  ill 
tvliat  reception  J had  met  with;  but  so  overcome  was  I at  our  go 
fortune,  that  I could  only  tell  them  we  were  safe*  We  were  th 
all  life  and  spirits,  thanking  God  for  bur  deliverance  thus  far.  T 
Arabs  with  the  camels  had  been  detained  by  the  governor’s  ordi 
as  a party  connected  with  us,  and  they  were  in  great  haste  to  px 
ceed  orii  We  were  vei’y  quickly  pi’ovided  with  such  kinds  of  sa 
dies,  or  ridirtg  seats,  as  cortld  be  procured,  which  were  mean  at  be 
Some  of  us  had  none,  but  luckily  for  myself,  I got  some  rubbi 
quilted-  on  behind  the  hump,  so  high  as  to  form  a tolerable  sei} 
The  Camels  were  ordered  down*  and  We  mounted ; our  feelings 
that  time  my  readers  can  better  judge  of  than  I can  describe. 

The  camels  rose  up  at  the  word  of  command  ; we  had  each  a sti 
to  guide  these  invaluable  animals,  and,  at  about  2 o’clock,  we  | 
moved  on,  along  the  beach,  where  we  had  a fine  view  of  St.  Cruc|j 
It  was  situated  on  a handsome  peak  at  the  declivity  of  the  Atkjj 
steep  on  every  side,  and  particularly  on  the  south-west  and  norfl 
surrounded  with  a high  wall  of  stone,  and  on  all  sides  were  canw 
planted ; in  short,  it  appeai’ed  both  by  nature  and  art  impregnab 
to  any  force  that  the  wild  Arabs  might  ever  bi’ing  against  it.  Tf 
estimate  which  I then  made  of  the  height  1 have  now  forgot,  but 
was  several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  lower  town  I did  n» 
pass  thi’ough ; when  I went  up  to  the  battery  with  the  soldier,  we  lo 
it  on  the  south-west,  and  when  we  came  down  we  arrived  at  it  c 
the  north-east,  but,  from  what  I could  discover,  it  was  mostly  inh 
bited  by  fishei-men  and  their  families,  and  these  fishermen  at  tin 
time  seemed  to  be  all  ashore  ; their  seines  were  hanging  up  to  dr 
and  their  boats,  which  were  lai'ge,  were  hauled  Well  up  on  the  bead 
After  ti’avelling  some  distance  along  the  shore,  we  took  a foot  pal 
leading  to  the  right,  and  apparently  in  the  direction  to  cross  the; 
huge  mountains*  At  the  beginning  of  our  ascent,  we  had  a view 
the  Atlas  on  our  right ; our  minds  had  become  tranquil,  and  we  cou! 
look' about  us,  and  talk  of  what  we  pleased,  without  being  interrup 
ed  by  the  Arabs.  What  a change  did  a few  hours  make  in  our  cox, 
edition  and  feelings  ! These  mountains  were  awfully  grand,  cappcj 
with  snow,  which  the  Arabs  said  had  lain  upon  them  ever  since  till 
World  was  made.  The  higher  we  ascended,  the  more  difficult  an 


J o3 


I?ADI>OCK.3S  NARRATIVE.: 

i ngerous  appeared  the  passage  ; the  camels  were  all  made  to  walk 
a single  file,  the  path  being  too  narrow  for  two  to  go  abreast, 
henever  we  arrived  where  the  rocks  lay  at  some  little  distance 
; art,  to  see  the  sagacity  that  these  animals  showed  in  climbing 
tern  was  truly  astonishing.  My  camel,  and  so  of  the  rest,  when 
Binding  on  a rock  with  all  the  feet  together,  would  look  out  for  the 
jxt  stepping  place,  and  if  the  distance  were  considerable,  he  would 
nch  forward  with  one  fare  foot,  as  if  for  measuring,  and  then  take 
back  again.  When  he  had  satisfactorily  ascertained  the  best  way 
a which  to  get  along,  he  would  pursue  it  with  great  care  ; sometimes, 
uen  standing  as  1 have  just  described,  if  the  distance  would  admit 
t such  an  adventure,  he  raised  his  whole  body  on  the  hind  feet,  and 
nched  the  fore  ones  to  the  place  intended,  and  getting  fast  hold  of 
i with  them,  he,  by  great  exertion,  brought  the  hind  feet  to  the  fore 
tes,  and  stood  again  with  all  four  of  them  together.  In  these 
ises  it  is  extremely  difficult  for  the  rider  to  hold  himself  on,  which 
f must  do  at  his  peril.  There  is  no  ascending  this  mountain  with 
cl  passing  close  along  the  brink  of  precipices,  when,  if  the  rider 
sruld  lose  his  hold,  or  fall  off,  he  must  inevitably  be  dashed  to  pie- 
Oi,  as  appeared  clear  to  me  in  a number  of  instances.  While  we 
lire  passing  by  these  dangerous  places,  the  Arabs  were  ready  to 
ttist  us,  and  were  continually  cautioning  us  against  falling  off ; not 
f m any  tenderness  towards  us,  as  we  thought,  but  because  being 
nv  near  the  market,  We  had  become  valuable  to  them,  and  besides, 
i vas  too  late  for  them  to  return  back  with  us. 

At  the  dusk  of  the  evening  we  arrived  at  the  top  of  this  part  of 
t;  Atlas,  and  found  the  ground  there  Hat.  The  snow  upon  the 
inmits  of  the  mountains  in  our  view,  appeared  to  us  as  not  more 
hn  five  or  six  miles  distant,  though  we  knew  that  their  dis- 
lice  was  much  greater.  Just  as  the  darkness  was  coming  on,  we 
Eiv  a walled  dwelling  place  a little  on  our  left,  and  the  Arabs  pro- 
ved to  go  to  it  and  remain  there  the  night,  while,  on  the  other 
lnd,  the  owners  of  the  camels  insisted  upon  proceeding  on  further. 
| to  ourselves,  we  were  very  desirous  they  should  remain  with  us, 
;d  all  go  oft' together  the  next  morning,  but  as  they  would  not  be 
jjrsuaded  to  stop,  we  dismounted,  and  leaving  them  to  go  on,  we 
j walked  together  toward  the  house,  where  We  did  not  arrive  till  it 
us  quite  dark.  The  bread  that  was  given  me  by  the  governor,  to- 
ither  with  some  little  which  our  men  had  with  them,  served  us  for 
• pper,  and  along  with  it  we  had  a bowl  of  good  wrater,  which  one 
i the  Arabs  had  procured  from  within  this  wall.  Soon  finding  that 
ie  Arabs  were  calculating  to  sleep  on  the  outside^of  the  walls,  we 
listed  on  going  inside,  where  we  might  have  a cover.  To  this 
ey  objected  that  the  people  were  asleep,  and  we  could  not  get 
; their  being  asleep  seemed  likely,  as  we  had  not  seen  a single 
:rson  belonging  there.  Upon  my  reminding  Ahamed  of  what  the 
ivernor  of  St.  Cruez  had  told  him,  he  replied,  “ I can  do  no  better 
; r you.”  I sent  one  of  the  boys  to  knock  at  the  gate,  which  very 
ach  offended  the  Arabs,  but  he  went,  and  continued  to  knock,  till 
me  one  within  called  to  know  what  he  wanted.  To  which  Ah?  - 


134 


paddock’s  narrative. 


med  answered,  “ I have  with  me  some  Christians'  who  are  vei 
troublesome,  and  demand  of  me  a lodging  on  the  inside  of  yoi 
wall,  under  some  cover.”  The  man  within  refused  at  first  to  let  1 
enter,  but  Ahamed  begged  him  to  do  it,  and  offered  to  give  hi 
something  on  his  return.  While  he  was  thus  pleading  our  caus 
one  of  the  Arabs  was  heard  to  say  in  great  anger,  “ 1 wish  we  wei 
on  the  other  side  of  St.  Cruez.”  At  last  the  conditions  of  ouradmi 
tance  were  settled.  The  fellow  agreed  to  admit  us  in  a few  minute 
wanting,  as  appeared,  a little  time  to  make  a light.  In  a few  m 
nutes  the  door  was  opened,  and  we  were  conducted  to  a room  whei 
a small  lamp  was  burning;  it  was  much  like  the  one  provided  ft 
us  by  Salear  at  Ahamed’s  house,  only  considerably  larger,  and, 
possible,  still  more  filthy.  We  had  scarcely  got  birthed  upon  th 
gravelly  floor,  before  we  found  ourselves  attacked  by  flees  of  tl  i 
first  class  for  size.  We  had  no  small  number  of  them  about  us 
the  time  we  entered,  and  so  much  the  worse  was  it  to  be  annoyt 
by  this  formidable  reinforcement.  However,  after  being  severe  j 
bitten,  we  fell  asleep,  and  did  not  awake  till  we  were  disturbed  1 
the  sound  of  the  prayers  uttered  before  our  door.  J 

On  the  13th,  at  daylight,  we  saw,  when  leaving  our  doleful  be 
room,  no  person  belonging  to  the  house  ; some  one  having  previon 
ly  been  there,  had  unlocked  the  gate  or  door.  We  departed,  n; 
without  taking  along  with  us  too  many  disagreeable  inmates,  tl 
most  of  which  we  shook  off  by  the  way,  on  the  first  opportunity 
We  took  a foot  path  leading  nearly  direct  across  the  mountain,  P; 
about  an  east-south-east  course.  On  the  rising  of  the  sun,  it  beii 
a clear  and  bright  morning,  the  highest  mountains  of  the  Atlas  e: 
hibited  the  grandest  spectacle  imaginable.  The  contrast  betwei 
the  dazzling  whiteness  of  the  snow,  and  blackness  of  the  rocks  b 
neath  it,  was  truly  striking.  So  clear  was  the  day  the  crevices 
those  mountains,  even  the  smaller  ones,  were  visible,  and  seerm 
within  a mile  of  us.  Sublime  and  beautiful  was  the  reflection  fro 
them  of  the  rays  of  the  sun  ! 

We  saw  but  a few  habitations  till  we  began  to  make  our  desceri 
which  was  gradual.  At  about  eight  o’clock,  we  came  to  a we 
looking  place,  consisting  of  a small  cluster  of  buildings,  and  of  or 
without  the  walls,  more  grand  than  the  rest.  Here  we  began  lo  n 
quire  of  our  masters  something  to  eat,  and  instead  of  begging  ft 
it,  as  all  along  we  had  done,  we  now  demanded  it,  and  in  whi 
no  doubt  appeared  to  them  rather  an  imperious  tone,  for  they  wet 
very  surly  upon  it.  In  coming  to  this  cluster  of  buildings,  w 
met  a dozen  men,  or  more,  going  out,  from  their  appearance,  to  ctj 
grain.  The  clamour  occasioned  by  hunger,  soon  became  genera 
every  one  of  us  calling  out  Cooly,  cooiy.  Upon  this,  one  of  thes 
Moors  went  into  one  of  their  little  cabins,  and  brought  us  out  a bow; 
part  full  of  boiled  meal,  and  with  it  a large  lump  of  butter,  whic 
last  one  of  the  Arabs  snatched  away,  and  divided  it  between  two  o 
three  of  them,  a stout  fellow  taking  the  greatest  part  to  himsell 
When  lo!  instead  of  eating  the  butter,  they  oiled  themselves  with  if 
beginning  at  the  head,  and  proceeding  downwards  ; and  what  thi 


paddock’s  narrative.  135 

s>ut  fellow  took  (he  being  in  a state  of  perspiration,  and  exposed 
i a hot  sun)  ran  down  from  his  beard,  and  gave  to  his  tawny  skin  a 
i e gloss,  which  lasted  all  the  day.  The  sight  was  amusing  enough, 
cd  we  now  took  with  them  such  liberties  as  we  durst  not  take  pre- 
■nusly  to  our  interview  wdth  the  governor  of  St.  Cruez  ; but  it  only 
I'ved  to  vex  them,  and  make  them  the  more  crabbed; 

With  this  spare  repast  we  travelled  on,  making  a quick  descent. 
1e  found  the  side  hills  tolerably  settled,  the  grain  good,  the  soil 
bich  more  stony  than  the  Arab  land  we  had  left,  but,  in  other  re- 
jects, about  the  same ; it  was  what  we  in  America  should  call  a 
.■od  gravelly  soil ; the  trees  were  more  common,  and  the  gardens 
lich  better  cultivated,  but  we  could  derive  no  benefit  from  any  of 
t,:m.  Their  olive  trees  looked  flourishing  ; the  forest  trees  were 
ijich  like  those  we  saw  growing  at  the  distance  of  a hundred  miles, 
c a hundred  and  fifty,  west  of  St.  Cruez  ; of  grape  vines  we  saw  a 
|v,  well  loaded  with  fruit,  but  they  were  sour  grapes  to  us,  or  be- 
hind our  reach. 

When  it  was  near  noon,  we  met  with  six  or  eight  men  together, 
v.o  were  travelling  westward.  Whether  they  were  Arabs  or  Moors 
v did  not  know  ; in  some  respects  these  two  kinds  of  people  ap- 

iar  alike ; their  colour  does  not  differ  a great  deal,  and  some  of  the 
Id  Arabs  shave  their  heads  like  the  Moors.  Our  Arabs  had  some 
k with  these  travellers,  which  none  of  us  took  any  notice  of,  as  our 
Bnds  were  at  rest  as  regarded  our  reaching  Swearah.  They  sepa- 
red,  and  we  walked  on,  and  presently  Ahamed  seemed  to  be  agi- 
ted  with  something,  and  muttered  to  himself  as  he  went  along,  but 
ine  of  ns  regarded  it.  At  length,  while  he,  Laura,  and  myself, 
lire  close  together,  he  broke  out  in  a passion,  and  expressed  him- 
sf  thus  : “ I swear  by  my  beard  (taking  hold  of  it  with  his  hand) 
bill  carry  you  no  further  than  that  house,”  pointing  to  one  that  was 
tar  by.  We  were  then  crossing  a little  rivulet  about  ankle  deep, 
tit  was  meandering  through  rocky  ground,  running  northward.  It 
ns  the  first  fresh  water  we  had  seen  running  since  we  first  came 
i o this  country,  and  had  it  not  been  for  this  apparent  reverse  in 
cr  fortunes  at  the  time,  I should  have  examined  it  more  attentively, 
lit  to  return  ; Ahamed  proceeded  as  here  follows — “ I have  heard, 

1 a man  I can  believe,  that  the  consul  will  not  ransom  any  more 
uristians,  and  I am  sorry  I ever  brought  you  here ; by  the  ex- 
jnse  of  my  purchasing  you  of  the  mountaineers,  and  the  provision 
have  made  for  you,  you  have  destroyed  all  my  substance.  You 
Bid  me  the  consul  would  redeem  you,  and  now  I find  I am  cheated, 

: d you  shall  go  no  further.” 

Laura,  with  all  dispatch,  interpreted  to  me  this  complaint  and 
Teat  of  Ahamed,  and  added,  “ he  has  taken  the  oath  that  is  most 
acred  among  the  Mahometans,” — meaning  his  swearing  by  his 
:ard.  By  this  time  we  had  arrived  at  the  gate  of  a large  dwell- 
g,  and  we  were  marched  into  the  yard,  which  contained  perhaps 
df  an  acre  •,  in  the  rear  of  which  was  a small  cabin  about  12  by  20 
et.  Having  arrived  at  this  prison  of  ours,  Ahamed  says  to  me, 
Here  you  are  to  remain  until  the  money  for  your  ransom  be  paid 


13©  PADDGClUs  NARRATIVE. 

down.”  I attempted  to  reason  with  him,  but  he,  and  all  the  rest  . 
them,  were  as  cross  as  curs.  We  entered  our  new  habitatio  | 
and  all  sat  down  in  surprise.  Before  this  we  had  thought  ourselv  jj 
safe,  and,  from  the  assurances  of  the  governor  of  St.  Cruez,  we  h<!| 
a good  right  so  to  think ; but  what  was  now  to  be  done  none  of  ! 
could  conjecture.  We  began  to  suspect  that  the  men  who  met  I 
last  were  the  owners  of  this  property,  and  that  an  agreement  wi 
then  made  with  them  by  our  Arabs  to  secure  us  here,  but  for  wh 
purpose  we  had  yet  to  learn.  As  soon  as  we  were  shown  to  01 
apartment,  and  forbidden  to  go  without  the  gate,  the  Arabs  all  la 
down,  in  different  parts  of  the  yard,  and  fell  asleep.  We  had  no  1 
to  make  our  arrangement,  for  the  English  boys  to  watch  every  oj 
portunity  to  learn  what  they  intended  to  do  with  us,  and  when  th j 
tvas  done,  being  very  feeble  and  fatigued,  we  all  laid  down  on  son  1 
straw,  and  in  sleep  we  forgot  our  trouble. 

When  I awoke,  which  was  in  about  half  an  hour,  I found  the  re 
all  asleep,  the  Arabs  lying  on  their  guns.  Presently  a woman  can 
to  the  well,  which  was  in  the  middle  of  the  yard,  to  draw  wate: 
there  was  no  bucket  at  the  well,  and  she  brought  a small  copp 
kettle  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  it.  As  soon  as  she  had  drawn 
up  I begged  her  for  a drink,  and  did  it  by  signs,  so  as  not  to  wal ; 
the  Arabs.  She  set  the  kettle  down,  and  went  the  distance  of  abo 
ten  paces  off,  and  stopt.  Taking  up  the  kettle,  I made  a heaU 
draught,  and  setting  it  down  again  in  its  place,  I walked  back  to  tl 
cabin.  Upon  which,  she  took  the  corner  of  her  dirty  haick,  wipe 
with  it  the  place  where  my  mouth  had  touched,  threw  the  water  or 
and  drew  another  kettle  full,  and  walked  back  into  the  house. 

I sat  some  time  before  any  one  stirred.  At  last  one  of  the  Aral 
awoke,  and  made  towards  us;  he  looked  in,  and  seeing  us  all  safe 
returned,  and  awaked  the  whole  company,  and  about  the  same  tim 
our  company  awoke,  hungry,  but  very  much  refreshed  with  sleej 
We  endeavoured  to  show  as  little  anxiety  as  possible  about  ourow 
situation  ; in  the  mean  time  they  appeared  petulant  and  snappish  i 
their  speech  to  one  another.  Our  men  being  all  thirsty,  went  ou 
in  a body,  to  the  well,  and  as  there  was  no  bucket,  one  of  the  Aral 
went  to  the  house  and  brought  the  same  copper  kettle  that  the  wc 
man  had  drawn  water  with,  and  drew,  first  for  themselves,  and  the 
for  our  men.  The  well  was  about  16  feet  deep,  and  the  water  of  j 
very  good.  It  was  stoned  up,  as  their  wells  usually  are,  with  larg 
round  or  oval  stones,  well  laid,  and  near  the  top,  or  surface  of  th 
ground,  was  a handsome  fiat  stone,  laid  in  lime  mortar,  Every  par 
of  their  habitations  showed  that  they  made  use  of  a great  deal  o 
lime,  but  we  did  not  see  a lime  kiln  during  the  whole  time  wc  wen 
in  that  country  ; the  stone  generally,  is  lime  stone. 

After  drinking  pretty  freely,  our  hunger  took  its  turn.  I sen 
Laura  to  ask  Ahamed  if  we  were  to  have  any  thing  to  eat  ? and 
heard  him  reply  “ Bezef” — plenty.  Very  soon  one  of  them  wen 
into  the  house,  and  brought  some  warm  bread,  made  of  barley  meal 
W e eat  it  all,  and  asked  for  more ; and  the  reply  to  us  was,  “ 1 oi 
shall  have  more  as  soon  as  it  can  be  cooked  however,  we  got  ik 


PADDOClds  NARRATIVE.  1.37 

iore  till  night,  and  then  fared  tolerably  well.  The  sun  was  now, 
s we  supposed,  obscured  bv  the  lofty  Atlas,  and  as  the  shade  of  it 
■/as  hidden  from  us  by  our  walls,  i took  an  opportunity  to  retire 
ehind  our  cabin,  and  some  rough  timber  standing  aslant  against 
le  wall,  I took  advantage  of  the  large  knots,  not  hewn  off,  and 
shade  out  to  climb  up  so  as  to  look  over  it.  There  I had  exhibited 
> me  a fine  view  of  the  mountains,  and  of  the  thickly  settled  coun- 
ty on  the  west  of  us,  well  covered  with  grain,  and  the  reapers 
mong  it ; though,  as  it  was  near  sunset,  many  of  these  reapers 
ere  returning  from  their  fields.  Nearly  opposite  to  our  place  of 
■sidence,  and  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  from  it,  was  a large 
hiding  newly  whitewashed,  and  it  being  unconnected  with  any 
her  building,  i thought  it  probably  a place  of  public  worship. 
Iter  gratifying  my  curiosity  awhile,  1 returned,  unnoticed,  to  our 
• bin,  and  related  to  my  mate  what  I had  seen. 

Very  soon  after  this  there  came  into  the  yard  a number  of  Moors, 
Id,  no  doubt,  by  their  curiosity  to  look  at  us  ; we  were  sitting  to- 
: ther  at  the  time  before  our  cabin  door.  They,  one  after  another, 
nde  their  observations  upon  us,  consisting  of  such  stuff  as  had 
|en  familiar  to  our  ears  for  a long  time,  and  was  therefore  but  lit- 
i regarded  by  us.  It  brought  fresh  to  my  mind  the  situation  I had 
4?n  the  poor  Africans  in,  in  the  West  Indies,  and  also  in  some  of 
«r  southern  states,  yarded  up  for  sale,  and  the  like  observations 
nde  on  them  as  on  us — for  instance,  That  is  a stout  fellow,  this  is 
■sickly  looking  creature,  not  worth  much,  he  will  soon  die,  and  so 
:.  The  object  of  the  visit  of  these  Moors  was  not,  however,  to 
ly  us,  for  we  were  too  far  eastward  for  that ; it  was  merely  to  see 
s:h  a degraded  race  of  human  beings  as  we,  in  their  opinion,  were, 
al  to  make  their  remarks  upon  us.  After  they  had  done  with 
iur  flouting  observations,  they  turned  to  the  Arabs,  and  asked 
' m a number  of  questions  concerning  us — what  they  had  given  for 
I?  how  they  intendedto  dispose  of  us?  what  profits  they  expect- 
e to  make  ? and  so  forth.  The  answers  of  our  masters  were  short 
1 1 crusty. 

Near  the  dusk  of  the  evening  there  appeared,  coming  through 
ti  gate,  a lusty  Moor,  dressed  in  a white  clean  haick,  and  morocco 
srpers.  As  he  approached,  the  Arabs  all  rose  up.  He  called 
b , “ Christiano  ! Christiano  !”  upon  which  I arose,  and  stood  still, 
f-  demanded  of  the  Arabs  to  know  who  we  were,  wdience  from,  and 
Wat  they  were  going  to  do  with  us  ? To  which  inquiries  of  his  we 
*<re  all  attention.  The  Arabs  replied,  “ They  are  Christians, 
rom  God  in  his  goodness  had  cast  upon  our  coast;  w7e  bought 
tim  on  the  edge  of  the  Great  Desert,  from  a hunting  party,  wdio 
hi  taken  them  from  their  wreck  ; we  had  intended  to  carry  them 
tiSwearah,  but  to-day  we  have  heard  that  the  consul  has  no  mo- 
rn to  buy  Christians  with.”  He  asked  whether  we  were  English 
o Spaniards  ? They  told  him  we  were  English.  He  then  turned 
rind  to  us,  and  asked  which  of  us  was  Rais  ? As  soon  as  I was 
pnted  out  to  him,  he  addressed  himself  to  me,  and  asked  me  if  my 
|«sul  had  money  ? I told  him  he  had  enough  to  buy  ten  dimes  oim 

18 


PADDOCK  a NARRATIVE. 


1 48 


number,  and  even  more.  “ How  do  you  know  that?'5  says  he. 
answered,  the  nature  of  our  government  is  such,  that  the  consul 
obliged  to  ransom  all  its  subjects.  He  then  turned  to  the  Arab 
and  asked  them  if  they  understood  me?  They  acknowledged  lh< 
did,  but  said  they  did  not  believe  me.  As  he  was  turning  away 
depart,  he  said,  “ All  is  not  right.'’’’ 


I told  Laura  to  ask  the  people  about  us  who  this  man  was  ? as 


[udged  him  to  be  some  kind  of  magistrate,  or  perhaps  a priest ; hi 
Laura  could  get  no  satisfaction  on  this  point ; it  seemed  the  Mocj 


were  not  unlike  the  Arabs  as  to  keeping  secret  every  thing  afl 


which  we  inquired.  When  it  became  dark  the  Moors  left  us,  a 
the  Arabs,  ..according  to  their  custom,  began  to  pass  round  t 
pipe,  and  commenced  their  chat.  As  it  was  all-important  for 
to  know  the  subject  of  it,  we  set  Laura  and  Bob  to  watch  eve 
opportunity  to  find  out  the  plan  they  had  in  contemplation  n 
pecting  their  future  dealing  with  us.  Accordingly,  these  be 
placed  themselves  in  a situation  to  hear.  The  Arabs  observi 
them  to  be  near,  were  on  their  guard  till  they  supposed  them  aslei 
for  it  was  so  common  for  them  to  be,  in  all  appearance,  asleep 


such  occasions,  that  they  did  not  suspect  them  of  feigning  it : as 


We  retired  to  the  cabin j 


Jack,  he  was  really  asleep  at  the  time, 
be  out  of  the  way. 

About  8 or  9 o’clock  our  supper,  of  newly  baked  bread,  was  f 
nished,  and  that  broke  up  their  conversation.  After  supper, 
boys  related  to  me  the  substance  of  the  conversation  they  had  heal 
The  Arabs  believed  that  the  money  for  our  ransom  would  not  e 
paid,  and  that  we  should  be  taken  from  them  without  their receivg 
any  reward  for  us.  They  regretted  very  much  that  they  had 
sold  us  before  they  came  to  St.  Cruez,  when  they  might  have  d< 
it  to  good  advantage ; as  that  might  have  added  greatly  to  tL 
wealth,  but  (as  some  of  them  said)  it  was  now  too  late.  Some  othjj 
were  of  the  opinion  that  it  was  not  yet  out  of  their  power  to  get 
back,  as  they  might  move  us  off  in  the  night,  part  of  the  way 
first  night,  and  on  the  next  might  pass  beyond  St.  Cruez  undisj 
vered,  and  that  we  might  in  the  mean  time  be  put  in  such  a sit 
tion  as  not  to  be  heard  ; that  was,  however,  objected  to  by  a j: 
of  them,  who  thought  it  impossible  to  keep  us  still.  It  was  the 
nion  of  a part  that  we  might  be  carried  back  undiscovered  by  crc 
ing  the  mountains  that  lay  back  of  St.  Cruez;  while  another  \ 
alleged  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  get  rid  of  St.  Cruez  in  t 
way,  as  they  must  climb  the  rocks  even  where  the  the  snow  r 
was,  for  which  extreme  cold,  neither  we  nor  themselves  were  si 
ciently  clad.  Finally,  one  of  them  said,  If  they  could  get  clea: 
Rias,  they  might  do  better;  that  he  was  the  -worst  to  manage 
that  all  the  rest  were  inclined  to  follow  his  advice. 

Supper  being  brought  to  us,  that  conversation  ended,  as  I s 
before,  and  a discouraging  and  mortifying  one  it  was  to  us.  TV 
course  to  take  we  knew  not,  but  still  had  a hope  that  some  autho 
under  the  emperor  would  interfere  in  our  behalf ; as  to  our  be 
carried  back,  I did  not  believe  it  practicable.  If  we  had  not 
interpreters  to  inform  us  of  what  was  said,  we  should  probably  h 


PADOQCIvS  NARRATIVE. 


139 


een  more  at  ease,  though  more  unsafe.  About  10  o’clock  we  re-* 
red  to  rest.  The  gate  was  locked,  and  the  Arabs  were  missing, 
hich  last  circumstance  gave  us  reason  to  suspect  they  were  making 
iends  in  the  neighbourhood,  for  putting  in  practice  one  or  other  of 
te  schemes  they  had  been  speaking  of.  We  fell  asleep,  and  did 
at  know  at  what  time  they  returned. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th,  we  were  awaked  by  a noise  we  had 
jen  long  accustomed  to,  namely,  the  sound  of  their  prayers,  nor 
d we  find  the  Arabs  in  any  better  mood  than  before.  As  we  had 
ie  preceding  day  been  fed  very  sparingly,  and  were  now  very  hun- 
ry,  we  asked  for  food,  but  found  very  little  attention  paid  to  our 
quest.  About  3 o’clock  all  of  us  got  a little  barley  bread,  warm 
am  the  oven  ; in  itself  it.  was  poor  bread," but  to  us  it  tasted  good ; 
e worst  of  it  was,  tfie  quantity  was  very  spare.  Soon  after  this 
anty  repast,  many  of  the  neighbouring  Moors  came  to  see  us, 
id  by  them  we  were  treated  as  we  had  been  by  those  who  had 
"sited  us  the  day  before  ; they  all,  and  always,  came  to  gratify 
eir  curiosity,  and  to  make  their  brutal  observations  upon  us. 
hile  we  were  almost  surrounded  with  these  unpleasant  and  unwel- 
me  visitors,  a voice  was  heard  through  the  crowd,  calling  out, 
Christiano !”  and  I soon  perceived  it  was  the  voice  of  the  man 
10  had  visited  us  (he  day  before.  The  crowd  all  dispersed  in  a 
lament,  the  Arabs  arose,  and  he  walked  up  to  us.  After  taking  a 
ght  view  of  us,  he  asked  the  Arabs  what  their  intentions  were 
Incerning  us  ? The  Arabs  spoke  to  him  with  a low  voice,  and  our 
>ys  being  inattentive  at  the  time,  could  not  tell  us  the  purport  of 
neir  reply.  He  walked  across  the  yard,  and  went  out,  and  the 
te  being  left  open,  I follorved  him  to  it,  and  satv  him  cross  the 
jad,  and  enter  the  house  which  I had  supposed  was  a house  of  wor- 
ip.  On  my  return  back,  I perceived  that  all  the  Arabs  had  been 
blowing  me  ; they  went  to  the  gate,  and  shut  it,  and  returned  to  the 
ace  where  we  had  been  ordered  to  remain.  I told  the  boys, 
ie  next  time  that  man  should  come,  they  must  ask  him  to  pro- 
ot  us  ; that  they  must  tell  him  that  our  government,  and  that  of  the 
iltan,  were  on  the  most  friendly  terms,  and  that  from  the  Moors 
lb  asked  protection,  and  had  a right  to  expect  it.  We  had  but  few 
fitors  this  forenoon,  and  of  those  who  came,  we  endeavoured  to 
id  out  who  our  respectable  looking  visitor  was.  Only  one  of  them 
I auld  make  any  reply,  who  told  us  he  was  a great  man,  but  would 
y nothing  further  about  him.  At  noon  I got  another  peep  over 
Ie  wall,  but  could  see  nothing  more  than  I had  seen  the  day  before. 

About  3 o’clock,  on  looking  about  for  our  men,  I found  Pat  was 
pissing,  the  Arabs  at  the  time  being  all  asleep.  I walked  towards 
!e  gate,  and  saw  it  open,  upon  which  I went  immediately  to  my  ob~ 
rvatory,  if  I may  so  call  it,  and  from  thence  saw  Pat  in  the  road, 
dancing,  with  a number  of  women  around  him.  1 informed  my 
■ ate  of  it,  and  he  took  one  of  the  boys  with  him  to  bring  Pat  back, 
pon  my  looking  again  over  the  wall,  I saw  the  mate  and  the  boy 
ting  out  of  a bowl.  The  temptation  being  too  hard  to  withstand, 
followed  out,  and  found  that  these  women  were  on  their  return 


140 


taddock’s  narrative. 


from  the  field,  with  the  leavings  of  the  mens’  dinner,  and  that  the 
had  been  feeding  Pat,  to  hire  him  to  sing  and  dance.  Having  eate 
his  fill,  he  had  mounted  a flat  stone,  and  was  now  making  these  w< 
men  merry.  The  mate  and  the  boy  were  engaged  in  finishing  til 
remains  of  a bowl.  A woman,  coming  to  join  in  the  merriment,  si 
her  bowl  down  for  me  ; in  it  was  enough  for  a common  dinner  ft 
two  men,  consisting  of  boiled  meal  and  a lump  of  butter,  which 
finished  in  great  haste.  Four  of  us  being  now  missing,  led  some  < 
the  others  to  look  for  us,  and  by  the  time  they  had  got  engaged  i 
cramming  themselves,  there  were  at  least  twenty  women  all  arour 
us,  laughing  heartily  at  Pat’s  capers  and  music.  By  this  time  tl 
men  in  the  grain  field  got  sight  of  us,  and  ran  down  the  road  til 
wards  us,  in  full  speed,  but  luckily  espying  them  before  they  h: 
arrived,  I ran  for  the  gate,  and  the  others  followed  me.  They  weij 
so  near  us,  that  one  of  the  stones  they  hove  at  us  passed  by  m 
We  all  ran  into  our  cabin,  and  had  the  door  shut,  before  they  h; 
come  in  sight  of  it.  They  entered  the  yard,  with  a confused  cl 
mour,  at  wdiich  the  Arabs  awoke  in  surprise,  started  up,  and  wai 
ed  to  know  the  cause  of  the  riot.  We  had  got  birthed,  all  but  m i 
self,  who  was  looking  through  the  crack  of  the  door  to  see  wh 
was  likely  to  follow.  I found  that  the  Moors  were  charging  ti 
Arabs  with  permitting  us  to  run  after  their  women,  and  that  t! 
Arabs,  on  the  contrary,  were  standing  in  their  own  defence,  by  Ik  I 
ly  denying  the  charge.  Expecting  they  would  come  to  the  cabin 
laid  down  soon,  and  presently  upon  it  the  door  was  opened  whe 
we  all  lay,  when  I called  upon  Laura  to  ask  them  what  the  noi 
was  about  us  ? The  Arabs  at  our  cabin  door,  replied,  “ The  Moo 
have  been  complaining  of  you  for  running  after  their  women, 
owned  to  them  that  some  of  us  had  been  out  of  the  gate,  where  th< 
saw  women  coming  from  the  grain  field,  with  some  victuals  left 
their  bowls,  and  that  one  of  our  men  suffering  severely  with  hungcl 
had  purchased  of  them  something  to  eat  by  singing  and  dancing 
amuse  them.  As  to  the  charge  of  running  after  the  women,  I to 
them  it  was  ill  founded,  that  I was  a witness  to  the  transaction,  ai 
could  assert  positively  that  our  men  were  not  within  three  paces 
their  women.  We  were  reprimanded,  and  threatened  with  seve 
punishment,  if  ever  after  we  should  be  seen  without  the  gate.  Ti 
Moors  left  us,  muttering  to  themselves  something  that  we  did  nil 
understand.  The  poor  women,  I have  no  doubt,  paid  dear  for  the 
entertainment. 


.PADDOCK's  NARRATIVE. 


Lit 


CHAP.  XIII. 

ar  third  visit  from  the  venerable  Moor — My  entreaty  for  his  protection — His  propo- 
sal for  my  writing  a letter  to  Mogadore — The  purport  of  my  letter — A courier  hired 
to  carry  it — Our  joyful  hopes  turned  into  distracting  fears,  by  the  courier’s  present- 
ly returning  with  the  letter  broken  open,  and  denounced  as  a cheat— A new,  but 
unpromising  plan,  agreed  upon — Our  benignant  guest  steps  in  and  defeats  it,  and 
proposes  to  the  Arabs  to  send  me  to  Mogadore — My  setting  out  on  my  journey  thi- 
ther, in  company  with  Ahamed  and  the  Moor  that  was  to  have  carried  my  letter — 
Heavy  discouragements  on  the  way — Condition  of  the  surrounding  country — Drag- 
ged by  the  heels  from  my  bed  of  straw — My  confinement  in  a dark  and  loathsome 
room,  under  circumstances,  and  with  forebodings,  that  rendered  me  nearly  frantic — - 
My  escape  from  that  filthy  prison — After  an  altercation  with  Ahamed  and  the  Moor, 
my  journey  progresses — A view  of  the  top  of  the  Atlas,  and  the  adjacent  country, 
at  the  moment  of  sunrise — A stifling  progress  through  drifted  and  drifting  sand — - 
Enrapturing  sight  of  Mogadore,  and  of  the  British  flag  waving  in  its  harbour — Oc- 
currences at  the  little  village  where  we  take  up  our  lodgings  for  the  night — My  es- 
cape from  my  keepers  to  a fresh  river  near  by — A feat  at  scouring  and  rinsing  there. 

The  Arabs  were  now  very  peevish,  and  what  seemed  to  occasion 
eir  uncommon  peevishness  at  this  time,  they  could  not  devise  what 
easures  to  take  with  us.  We  suspected  they  were  trying  to  col- 
:t  strength  to  get  us  back  into  their  own  territory,  and  thought  if 
ey  could  gain  over  to  them  the  influence  of  the  distinguished  Moor 
at  I have  spoken  of,  they  would  attempt  to  put  in  practice  that  pur- 
use.  Soon  after  this  affair  with  the  Moors  and  the  Moorish  women, 
is  very  man  came  into  the  yard.  I was  ready  to  shudder  at  the 
light  of  him,  for  fear  of  his  displeasure  at  what  had  happened.  He 
koproached  us,  calling  out  Christiano,  as  usual,  and  speaking  to 
te  Arabs  ; and  according  to  my  arrangement  in  the  morning,  I ac- 
> sted  him,  through  Laura,  in  the  following  words — We  are  here  in 
*e  Sultan’s  territory,  held  by  these  Arabs,  and  from  your  hands  we 
:k  justice.  Your  Sultan  and  our  Sultan  are  on  the  most  friendly 
jrms.  We  ask  nothing  from  these  men  but  our  freedom,  which  we 

!e  willing  to  pay  for;  they  have  been  told  that  our  consul  is  unable 
pay  a sufficient  ransom  for  us  all,  but  in  that  they  have  been  mis- 
formed.  To  keep  us  here  starving  will  never  help  them. 

B After  1 had  gone  through  with  what  I had  to  say,  he  asked  me  if  I 
siuld  write  ? I answered  that  1 could.  He  then  turned  to  the  Arabs, 
ho  had  heard  our  talk,  and  proposed  it  to  them  to  let  me  write  a 
tter,  and  have  it  sent  to  the  consul,  adding,  “You  will  know  then 
hether  the  stories  they  have  told  you  be  true  or  false.”  The 
rabs  consented  that  I should  send  a letter  if  I would  hire  a Moor 
carry  it,  which  I agreed  to.  Accordingly  a man  was  sent  for, 
ho  demanded  four  dollars  for  that  service,  and  I promised  to  pay 
Upon  this,  he  said  he  would  be  ready  as  soon  as  he  could  get 
Is  horse,  and  that  would  be  as  soon  as  I could  write  my  letter, 
sheet  of  paper,  a reed,  (by  the  way,  the  Moors  always  use  reeds 
r pens,)  and  some  ink,  were  immediately  procured  for  me,  and  a 
rge  flat  stone  was  my  writing  table.  Our  good  Moor  lent  me  a 
tarp  knife,  with  which  I made  a tolerable  pen.  Ahamed  sat  op- 
isite  to  me.  The  Arabs  gathered  round,  and  the  Moors  in  the  vi- 
nity,  who  had  heard  that  I was  to  send  a letter  to  Swearah,  came 


142 


paddock’s  narrative* 


in;  taken  all  together,  I presume  there  were  more  than  fifty  collect® 
around  me. 

It  was  agreed  upon  that,  Ahamed  should  dictate  my  letter,  and 
called  for  Laura  to  interpret  it,  but  he  insisted  that  Jack  should  b 
the  interpreter,  to  which  I consented.  Ahamed  began  to  dictate! 
and  did  it  in  short  sentences,  and  I wrote  about  as  fast  as  he  spoke 
but  not  a single  sentence  of  what  he  told  me  to  write.  The  sub  | 
stance  of  what  he  dictated  to  me  was,  that  myself  and  crew  werr 
down  in  the  country,  held  captives  by  the  Arabs,  who  would  nc 
carry  us  to  Swearah  till  our  redemption  money  was  sent  them  i 
advance  ; that  agreeably  to  our  contract,  for  which  they  had  my  sc 
lemn  pledge  of  honour,  our  ransom  was.  to  be  four  hundred  dollar 
for  each  of  us,  and  forty  dollars,  over  and  above,  for  myself ; the 
the  men  who  held  us  captives  had  been  kind  to  us,  but  were  unabl 
to  give  us  much  to  eat ; that  we  were  very  sickly,  and  needed  hel 
immediately,  and  that  the  bearer  would  bring  the  money,  and  th 
consul  might  send  a man  to  see  it  paid. 

I directed  my  letter  to  the  British  consul  at  Mogadore,  or  an 
other  humane  man  into  whose  hands  it  might  fall,  and  stated  in 
that  we  were  a short  day’s  march  eastward  of  St.  Cruez,  and,  a< 
cording  to  my  calculation,  seventy  miles  south-west  of  Mogadon 
but  that  I was  unable  to  name  the  place  we  were  at;  that  we  ha 
been  wrecked  on  the  coast  of  Barbary ; that  my  crew  her^e  wei 
eight  in  number,  and  that  besides  we  had  with  us  three  of  the  Marti 
Hall’s  crew  ; that  we  were  in  a suffering  condition,  and  that  the  Aral 
here  urere  devising  means  to  get  us  back,  beyond  St.  Cruez,  to  ar< ; 
gion  where  we  should  be  doomed  to  drag  out  our  existence  in  barbs 
rian  slavery ; and  finally,  that  1 wished  the  bearer  might  be  detaine; 
till  he  could  release  us,  since,  in  the  event  of  his  returning  without  th 
money,  we  should  be  dragged  back  before  aid  could  be  afforded  nit 
adding  my  belief  that  he  had  a full  knowledge  of  these  merciles  | 
savages,  and  would  take  such  measures  for  us  as  humanity  shoul 
dictate. 

When  I had  done  writing  my  letter,  the  Arabs,  very  unexpected 
ly,  ordered  me  to  read  it.  My  mate,  who  was  looking  over  m|! 
shoulder,  saw  my  embarrassment,  said  to  me,  “ Read  on,  you  ca 
do  it  well  enough” — and,  luckily  for  me,  I made  out  to  read  it  t 
their  satisfaction.  Ahamed  then  told  Jack  to  read  it,  and  we 
knowing  he  could  not,  I reached  him  the  letter,  and  Jack,  upo 
looking  at  it,  said  it  would  do  very  well,  as  also  said  o'Ur  old  frien 
the  Moor.  Lastly,  Ahamed  examined  it  himself,  and  seeing  n 
numerical  figures  there,  he  objected  to  it  for  that  omission.  I toll 
him  the  figures  might  be  added  at  the  bottom,  which  I actually  die1 
and  made  and  placed  them  just  as  he  would  have  them.  It  mad| 
it  a pretty  curious  letter,  but  the  addition  was  such  as  nobody  coul 
interpret  in  a manner  to  answer  their  purpose,  or  to  injure  or  impai 
what  I meant  to  convey.  Though  I had  folded  the  letter  up  befor 
the  Moor  was  ready  to  start,  yet  he  demanded  some  tobacco  i|! 
addition  to  his  stipulated  pay,  saying  I had  detained  him  too  long 
That  I promised,  and  then  had  to  open  the  letter  and  write  tobacc 


paddocic’s  narrative. 


143 


t the  bottom,  Now  he  thought  it  would  do,  and  said  he  would  re- 
urn  on  the  third  day.  We  all  went  to  the  gate  to  see  him  off,  and 
e started  upon  a full  gallop,  on  a fine  bay  horse,  and  was  very  soon 
ut  of  sight.  The  Moors  departed.  My  excellent  friend,  the  Moor, 
aid  to  me,  “ You  now  will  soon  gain  your  freedom,”  and  left  us, 
fter  I had  returned  to  him  my  cordial  thanks  for  his  kindness  to  us. 
Ve  all  now  returned  to  our  lodging  place,  rejoicing  at  this  most 
i attering  prospect  of  soon  obtaining  our  freedom. 

In  a single  hour  these  hopes  of  ours  were  blasted.  To  our  as- 
Dnishment  the  Moor  came  running  into  the  yard,  with  the  letter 
pen  in  his  hand.  Upon  our  going  out  of  our  cabin  to  know  the 
ause  of  his  return,  he  told  us  he  had  rode  but  a little  way  when  he 
uet  with  one  of  his  acquaintance,  who  desired  to  know  where  he 
'as  bound,  and  on  what  business  ; and,  upon  his  telling  him,  he 
■anted  to  see  the  letter,  which  having  examined,  he  said  it  was  good 
ir  nothing.  We,  on  our  part,  contended  that  the  letter  was  a good 
ne.  In  the  mean  time  our  faithful  friend  came  to  us,  in  apparent 
nger,  and  demanded  the  cause  of  our  messenger’s  return  ; and  be- 
ig  told  the  story  of  it  by  the  Arabs,  and  I still  insisting  upon  it  that 
le  letter  was  good,  he  took  our  part,  and  said  the  man  who  had  ex- 
mined  it  was  a liar,  and  then  walked  out  of  the  yard. 

It  was  now  near  night,  and  some  of  us  were  pretty  hungry,  but 
pon  our  asking  for  victuals,  we  were  reminded  of  what  the  women 
ad  helped  us  to  ; wre  got,  however,  some  bread,  of  such  kind  as 
■e  had  had  before.  We  knew  not  what  course  to  take  next,  and 
,rere  more  fearful  than  ever  of  these  Arabs  obtaining  assistance  for 
arrying  us  back,  not  knowing  then  how  much  it  was  in  the  power  of 
ur  good  Moor  to  render  abortive  any  attempt  of  that  kind.  As  to 
le  story  about  the  letter,  we  thought  it  a made  up  one  ; we  had  no 
belief  of  its  having  been  read  by  any  person  who  understood  it,  for, 

’ so,  he  would  have  pointed  out  the  particulars  therein  that  he 
eemed  fraudulent,  or  faulty,  of  which  the  Moor  that  was  the  bearer 
f it  could  and  would  have  given  us  information.  During  the  whole- 
f the  evening  the  Arabs  were  very  cautious  against  suffering  our 
oys  to  listen  to  their  talk  ; though  they  were  not  so  fearful  of  Jack, 
nd  of  him  we  got  a little  information.  He  told  us  that  they  ap- 
earedvery  uneasy,  and  frequently  said  to  one  another,  u If  we  had 
re  dogs  back  on  the  other  side  of  St.  Cruez,  we  might  manage 
[hem  according  to  our  will.”  Jack  expressed  it  as  his  opinion  that 
rey  intended  to  carry  us  back,  but  he  knew  not  how,  and  thought 
hat  their  plan  for  it  was  not  yet  matured.  Having  by  these  meairs 
ained  a knowledge  of  their  intentions,  we  were  constantly  upon  our 
uard  against  their  taking  us  by  surprise  in  the  night  time.  After 
long  conversation  upon  the  subject  of  our  unhappy  and  deplora- 
ble condition,  we  laid  down,  and  slept  pretty  well. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th,  previously  to  our  going  out  of 
>ur  cabin,  we  had  agreed,  that  before  another  night  we  would 
>y  all  means  have  the  subject  of  our  departure  from  that  place 
ettled  ; for  the  fear  of  being  dragged  back  had  preyed  upon  our 
1 jainds  to  such  a degree  that  we  were  on  the  brink  of  delirium. 


144 


paddock’s  narrative. 


Soon  after  sunrise  I took  Laura  with  me,  and  we  went  to  Ahamec 


who  was  sitting  under  the  wajl  of  our  enclosure.  I told  him  he  wa 


acting  contrary  to  his  own  interest  in  thus  detaining  us  here,  and  re 
commended  it  to  him  to  send  on  some  man  or  other  with  the  lettc 
which  the  Moor  had  brought  back,  assuring  him  that  immediate  a 
tention  would  be  paid  to  that  letter  on  its  arrival  at  Swearah.  Aht 
med  replied,  “ That  letter  is  good  for  nothing.”  Let  me  read  it  t 
you  again,  said  I to  him.  “ No,”  he  answered,  “ that  will  do  n 
good,  for  it  sha’nt  be  sent  on  again.”  After  a little  pause,  he  askc 
me  if  I would  send  a man  up  for  the  money  ? 1 readily  told  him 
would,  if  he  would  send  a man  and  horse  with  him.  This  propos 
tion  he  agreed  to,  and  the  arrangement  made  between  us  was  satisl 
factory  to  all  the  Arabs.  Ahamed  then  asked  me  whom  I woulj 
send?  Not  daring  to  nominate  myself,  for  fear  of  increasing  hij 
jealousy  of  me,  I told  him  to  make  his  own  choice.  Upon  whic! 
he  named  one,  and  I proposed  that  he  should  carry  my  letter  wit! 
him  ; but  that  proposition  wras  rejected  by  Ahamed  and  all  the  resj! 
of  them.  Their  conditions  for  me  were  soon  made  up,  which  wcr 
these  : l was  to  pay  four  dollars  for  the  man  and  horse,  and  the.tw 
should  ride  by  turns  ; 1 was  to  give  also  a knife,  and  some  tobacco,  t| 
make  up  for  the  man’s  services  of  yesterday  ; the  tale  that  was  to  fc 
told  to  the  consul  was  to  be  given  by  me,  but  in  their  presence,  an 
was  to  be  interpreted  to  them  by  boy  Jack.  All  these  conditions5 
consented  to.  Upon  which,  the  same  Moor,  and  the  one  of  us  th; 
was  appointed  to  go  on,  being  ready  to  start,  they  began  to  give  the  [ 
instructions,  or  orders,  which  Jack  interpreted  to  me,  and  as  fast  a*1 
I received  them  from  him  I communicated  them  to  our  messengef 
but  in  a manner  that  made  them  similar  in  substance  to  my  lettei 
After  all  was  settled,  and  the  boy  that  was  our  messenger  mounf 
ed,  I took  an  opportunity  in  the  absence  of  Jack,  to  ask  him  (th 
messenger)  if  he  understood  his  errand  aright,  and  knew  what  to  sal 
to  the  consul  ? He  replied,  “ I understand  you.”  This  exciting  th 
suspicion  of  Ahamed,  he  desired  to  know  of  me  what  I had  the 
been  saying.  I told  him  I had  only  been  charging  the  messenger  t 
do  his  errand  right,  and  Laura  being  present,  confirmed  it  for  me 
Our  two  envoys  were  moving  towards  the  gate/ when  our  friend! 
Moor  met  them,  and  demanded  to  know  whither  they  were  bound 
They  are  bound  to  Swearah,”  replied  Ahamed,  “ to  bring  the  mo 
ney  for  the  ransom  of  these  Christians.”  The  Moor  then  told  then 
to  stop,  and  they  did  so,  and  he  addressed  himself  to  Ahamed  as  fol 
lows  : “ Are  you  so  ignorant  as  to'suppose  the  consul  will  believ 
the  story  you  are  about  to  send  him  ? depend  upon  it,  he  will  not1 
1 know  him,  and  know  that  he  is  a wise  man.  If  you  should  sen* 
Rais,  he  would  believe  him,  and  the  money  would  be  in  safe  hands. ,! 
Then  turning  to  me,  he  said,  “ Is  it  not  so  ?”  I told  him  this  was  ; 
plan  of  their  own  forming,  and  that  I had  consented  to  it  from  a be 
lief  that  any  kind  of  efforts  to  obtain  our  freedom  would  be  bette 
than  to  stay  here  and  not  act  at  all.  Ahamed,  looking  me  full  in  th1 
face,  said,  “ Will  you  go?”  Yes,  I answered.  “ Will  you  pay  th<j 


paddock5s  narrative. 


145, 

cpenscs  ?”  I gave  him  the  same  answer.  “ Well,”  he  rejoined, 

I will  go  also,  provided  you  will  return  with  me  in  case  you  can’t 
>t  the  money.”  That  1 promised  to*  do.  “We  must  have  two 
arses,”  he  said,  “ and  take  turns  to  ride.”  I agreed  to  it ; and 
so  agreed  with  the  same  Moor  that  we  had  engaged  before,  to  fur* 
r sh  another  horse,  for  the  additional  pay  of  four  dollars  and  a knife. 

i;cordingIy  another  horse  was  provided  in  haste,  and  in  the  mean 
ne  Ahamed  was  much  engaged  with  his  companions  the  Arabs. 

5 to  my  men,  they  came  round  me,  rejoicing  that  the  time  of  our 
bverance  was  so  near  at  hand. 

It  was  about  2 o’clock  before  we  were  ready  to  start.  Of  the 
o horses  they  gave  me  the  handsomest,  and  one  held  him  by  the 
ad  while  I was  mounting.  At  the  signal  for  moving,  my  horse, 
er  the  manner  to  which  he  had  been  accustomed,  gave  such  a 
;dden  spring  forward,  that,  although  I was  well  guarded,  I lost  my 
lid,  and  fell  on  my  back  and  shoulders.  The  ground  being  fa- 
vurable,  and  myself  not  very  heavy,  the  injury  proved  trifling, 
ough  perhaps  at  another  time,  and  under  different  circumstances, 
should  have  felt  it  more.  My  men  all  ran  to  my  assistance ; I, 
wever,  got  up  without  help,  the  horse  standing  still  the  while, 
lich  I remounted,  notwithstanding  their  proposing  to  me  to  take 
5 other  one,  and,  by  a tight  rein,  I kept  him  under  command, 
iking  the  path,  and  proceeding  in  a northerly  direction,  we  soon 
scended  into  a valley,  or  more  properly  a plain,  the  land  on  each 
e of  it  being  hilly,  and  especially  on  the  right,  where  were  seve- 
large  habitations,  well  walled  in.  Some  of  the  walls  appeared  to 
twenty  feet  in  height,  or  more  ; there  were  also,  on  the  sides  of 
: hills,  good  gardens,  fenced  in  with  stone  walls.  There  were 
fene  handsome  spots  of  trees,  to  only  a few  of  which  were  we  near 
emgh  to  ascertain  of  what  kinds  they  were.  What  grape  vines 
v saw  were  of  the  low  kind,  and  well  loaded  with  fruit,  which  ap- 
pired  nearly  ripe.  The  soil  was  gravelly,  and,  in  my  places,  veiy 
s ny,  such  as  produces  the  finest  grapes  in  Madeira  and  TenerifFe  ; 
al,  as  the  climate  here  was  about  the  same,  I had  no  doubt  that  the 
gipes  were  of  the  same  kind.  The  pompions  and  onions  here  were 
li  ? in  appearance. 

Keeping  our  horses  on  a moderate  trot,  we  had  travelled  as  fast 
a the  man  on  foot  (who  more  than  half  the  time  was  on  the  run) 
:ild  possibly  get  along,  and,  by  continuing  that  speed,  I expected 
tweach  Mogadore  by  the  noon  of  the  next  day.  But  when  we  had 
a ended  and  reached  the  higher  ground,  instead  of  this  fair  and 
fi b travelling,  we  found  it  very  rough  ; the  sharp  stones  prevented 
n horse  from  keeping  up,  and  in  a short  time  he  became  lame, 
'linking  he  had  a sharp  stone  in  his  hoof,  as  soomas  1 had  over- 
t;  en  the  footman,  who  stopt  for  me,  I examined  his  feet,  and  found 
h had  no  shoes  on.  We  were  now  about  eight  miles  from  the  place 
n had  started  from,  when  Ahamed  and  the  Moor  proposed  to  re- 
tin,  but,  for  my  part,  I urged  them  to  go  on,  and  getting  off  my 
h,se,  1 led  him.  We  progressed  so  slow  in  this  way,  that  the 
B or  said  we  must  either  return  back,  or  go  on  with  but  one  horse. 

19 


346 


FADD'OCk’s  NaUIIATIVE. 


As  I still  pressed  them  to  keep  on,  they  consented,  on  the  coriditi 
that  the  lame  horse  should  be  left  behind,  and  that  I should  pay  t 
hire  of  both,  and  this  1 promised.  At  no  great  distance  horn  us  w 
a house,  which  stood  three  or  four  hundred  yards  from  the  path,  a 
when  we  had  come  to  the  bars,  our  Moor  called  to  a boy  who  w 
near  the  house,  and  bade  him  let  them  down,  and  then  turned  in  t 
horse  through  the  opening,  leaving  it  with  the  boy  to  take  care 
him  ; which  charge  he  no  doubt  attended  to,  and  fed  the  horse  we 
as  grain  was  plenty  there,  a large  field  of  it  being  now  about  hi 


cut,  and  in  it  a number  of  reapers  cutting  down  the  rest. 


After  this,  Ahamed  and  the  Moor,  finding  that  I got  along  ve 
slow,  stopped  for  me  to  come  up  with  them,  and  then  propos 
to  me  a new  bargain,  namely,  that  I should  ride  all  the  time,  ai 
for  that  privilege  should  add  to  the  quantity  of  tobacco  I had  pi 


mised,  and  give  another  knife  ; and  this  I readily  agreed  to  do,  a 


mounted  a good  hor$e,  though  not  so  smart  as  the  one  that  was  le 
This  new  arrangement  was  much  to  our  advantage ; the  Arab  a 
the  Moor,  who  were  fit  companions,  continued  to  run  so  fast  as 
keep  me  in  a slow  trot  nearly  all  the  time.  The  ground  was  a coai 
gravel,  stony,  and  tolerably  well  settled ; there  were  several  lar , 
enclosures,  which  they  called  towns ; all  the  fields  looked  well,  a 
it  seemed  as  if  every  body  was  engaged  in  the  harvest.  Aboul 
o’clock  we  stopped  against  a small  house  near  the  way,  and  a w 
being  at  hand,  my  fellow-travellers  called  upon  a boy  to  bring  us 
bowl,  and  we  got  a drink  of  excellent  water.  After  drinking,  th 
mixed  about  a pint  of  raw  barley  meal  writh  a little  water,  so  as 
make  it  a thick  substance,  and  about  three  fourths  of  it  they  < 
themselves,  and  gave  me  the  remainder,  which  I found  a sumptuc 
repast.  After  all  had  done,  they  laid  the  bowl  on  the  stone  of  t 
well,  and  the  boy  came  and  rubbed  out  the  inside  with  some  san 
he  then  washed  it,  and  returned  with  it  to  the  house.  I concluded  tl jj 
this  cleansing  of  the  bowl  was  to  clear  away  the  pollution  impart 
to  it  by  the  touch  of  my  lips. 

We  now  descended  a little,  in  nearly  a north-east  course,  a 
found  the  country  along  our  path  somewhat  more  level,  but  on  ea 
side,  and  particularly  on  the  right,  there  were  high  mountains,  inf 
bited  but  little  differently  from  what  we  had  seen  all  along  since  1 
had  commenced  this  journey.  The  flocks  were  rather  more  rume 
ous,  particularly  the  goats  ; in  many  places  the  hills  were  literal 
covered  with  goats,  intermingled  with  sheep,  with  several  childr  . 
employed  as  their  keepers.  The  grass,  though  dry,  seemed  in  toler 
ble  plenty;  the  shrubs  and  low  trees  on  the  hills  afforded  a f! 
sufficiency  of  food  for  the  goats.  When  it  was  near  sunset,  the  S' 
that  we  passed  over  had  more  the  appearance  of  sand,  intermix 
with  gravel,  and  abounded  more  with  grain,  and  less  with- fruit  treij 
and  grape  vines.  The  country  ahead,  except  the  mountains,  hi 
gan  to  appear  to  us  like  that  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  consisting  | 
sand  banks,  intermixed  with  rocky  ground. 

As  it  was  now  growing  dark,  I began  to  think  of  my  night’s  lodl) 
ing.  The  two  men  with  me  quickened  their  pace  to  such  a degr 


147 


paddock’s  narrative* 

at  1 had  tt>  continue  my  horse  at  a considerable  trot  to  keep  up 
ith  them  ; talking  with  them  in  Arabic  as  well  as  I could,  having  no 
Iterpreter.  Anxious  as  1 was  to  get  along,  as  soon  as  it  became 
isk  I felt  my  inability.  What  with  trotting  on  horseback  for  five 

It  six  hours,  and  what  with  meeting  a cold  north  wind,  the  fatigue 
id  the  chill  were  such  as  1 could  bear  no  longer,  and  I called  to 
?e  Arab  and  the  Moor  to  know  when  they  would  stop,  and  com- 
bined to  them  of  the  weariness  and  cold  I was  suffering.  But  all 
wain;  they  only  shook  their  heads  at  me,  and  kept  on  till  consb 
< rably  dark,  when  they  stopt  along  side  of  a large  quantity  of  grain, 
appeared  to  have  been  collected  at  this  place  not  with  intent  that 
i should  lie  there  long  in  the  sheaves,  for  they  were  not  stacked  in 
regular  manner,  or  as  the  Americans  stack  their  grain,  that  is,  ex- 
sed  to  the  weather ; the  sheaves  lying  there  were  large,  and  well 
und.  At  this  time  a dim  light  appeared  at  the  distance  of  a hun- 
ted and  fifty,  or  two  hundred  yards,  and  the  two  men  with  me  were 
viting,  I supposed,  for  an  invitation  to  the  house  ; when,  for  my 
[rt,  jaded  out  with  a ride  on  horseback  from  20  to  25  miles,  being 
taccustomed  to  riding  in  this  way,  I sat  down  by  the  side  of  this 
giin,  and  soon  felt  sleepy,  and  suffering  as  1 did  with  the  coldness 
othe  night,  I found  an  entrance  with  my  head  between  the  sheaves, 
nich  were  not  packed  close,  and  so  far  worked  myself  along 
a to  be,  as  I thought,  completely  under  cover.  My  situation  then 
vs  warm  and  comfortable,  and  I fell  asleep,  but  for  how  long  I 
c lid  not  tell,  for  the  first  I knew,  the  Arab  and  the  Moor  were 
digging  me  out  by  my  heels.  When  this  was  over,  they  gave  me 
aevere  scolding,  probably  thinking  they  had  lost  me:  at  least,  it 
*jk  them  some  time  to  find  me,  and  sorry  was  I that  they  did  find 
n at  all  that  night,  so  comfortable  was  my  lodging  there. 

They  took  me  to  the  house,  and  asked  me  iff  was  hungry?  My 
anver  was  as  might  have  been  expected.  It  was  quite  an  unneces- 
■ y question,  as  Ahamed  all  along  well  knew  that  I had  never  got 
Dm  his  hands  scarcely  half  enough  to  eat,  and  frequently  not  the 
5 teenth  of  enough.  He  reached  me  the  bowl,  consisting  of  sour 
nk,  with  a little  raw  meal  stirred  in  it,  which  I swilled  down,  and 
a:ed  him  for  more.  His  reply  was,  “ Cooly  mackan” — victuals 
me,  or  no  more.  The  man  of  the  house  opened  the  door,  or  gate, 
til,  by  the  dim  light  of  a lamp,  I was  led  to  some  bars,  which  he 
It  down,  and  put  them  up  again  after  1 had  gone  through,  and  then 
e inguished  his  light.  The  smell  was  sufficient  to  show  me  what 
k ds  of  animals  had  lodged  there  last ; in  fact,  I did  think  that  after 
had  arrived,  the  sheep  and  goats  were  turned  out,  for  the  sake  of 
pividing  me  with  a birth.  Being  left  in  the  dark,  I could  not  tell 
ti  size  or  the  shape  of  my  room.  With  my  feet  I scraped  away  as 
itch  of  the  filth  as  I could,  and  lying  down,  1 soon  fell  asleep,  and 
s pt  soundly. 

/Vhen  I awoke  all  was  still.  I concluded  it  was  near  daylight,  or 
qte,  but  could  not  discover  any  crack  for  the  admission  of  light, 
Cm  had  the  day  then  dawned.  Upon  my  waking,  the  first  painful 
tlught  that  thrilled  through  my  mind  was,  I am  here  a prisoner  l 


paddock’s  NARRATIVE. 


1 4o 

I recollected  my  hearing,  by  the  boys,  how  the  Arabs  had  said,  ‘ i 
Rais  was  away,  we  might  do  well  enough  with  the  rest and  I si 
pected  that  this  was  a piece  of  management  to  secure  me  here,  ai 
make  off  with  the  others  towards  St.  Cruez.  I fancied  they  we 
already  carried  half  way  to  that  town,  and  at  that  very  moment 
cured  in  some  solitary  place,  and  that  the  next  night  they  woi 
carry  them  on  beyond  St.  Cruez.  My  imagination  suggested  to  i 
that  they  might  send  on  a Moor  to  bribe  some  man  in  the  lov 
town  of  St.  Cruez  to  furnish  them  with  a fishing  boat,  by  whi 
means,  embarking  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  they  might,  in 
hour  or  two,  be  landed  in  the  Arabian  territory  on  the  west  si< 
and  none  but  myself  be  left  to  tell  the  sad  tale  of  our  disasters, 
very  well  knew  I might  be  kept  safe  enough  here  till  that  pro} 
should  be  accomplished.  By  these  reflections  my  mind  was  wrouj 
up  to  such  a pitch  of  frenzy,  that  I groped  about  in  the  dark,  fe 
ing  at  the  walls,  nearly  all  round  the  room,  before  I came  to  i 
bars  where  I had  entered  it,  and  upon  trying  to  let  them  dowr 
found  them  fastened,  which  confirmed  the  horrid  suspicions  that  1 
taken  possession  of  my  breast.  I then  strove  to  get  over  the  bs 
and,  in  mounting  them,  I struck  my  head  against  the  ceiling  abo 
and  the  blow  was  so  hard  that  I was  near  falling  ; still  climbing  i 
I found  the  distance  between  the  top  rail  and  the  ceiling  just  w 
enough  for  the  entrance  of  my  head,  and  so  emaciated  was  I at  ti 
time,  that  it  proved  sufficiently  wide  for  my  whole  body  to  p 
through.  Accordingly  I succeeded  in  getting  over  the  bars,  and 
I recollected  the  direction  I had  gone  in,  in  passing  from  the  dooi^ 
the  bars,  I groped  along,  and  found  the  door,  in  which  was  a crt; 
large  enough  to  show  me  that  it  was  not  yet  daylight.  Here  I 
about  for  the  bolt,  or  fastening  of  the  door,  and  not  being  able  to  fi 
it,  I felt  my  way  back  to  the  bars,  where  I stood,  with  the  horri  > 
picture  in  my  mind  of  the  barbarian  slavery  to  be  endured  by  it 
poor  fellow-captives.  i 

After  standing  in  this  position  about  half  an  hour,  I heard  it 
stepping  of  a horse  approaching,  and  soon  upon  it  distinctly  heard  > 
rattling  of  the  stirrups  of  a saddle,  and  the  sound  of  placing  it  up 
the  horse’s  back  ; at  the  same  time  I heard  no  human  voice,  nor  <1 
there  seem  to  be  more  than  one  person  there.  Upon  this,  my  mil, 
extremely  agitated  as  it  was,  flew  to  another  conjecture,  namely,  till 
the  Moor  had  been  away,  and  was  now  returned,  and  that  Ahatrl 
was  about  to  start  on  for  Mogadore  upon  the  affair  of  our  ranso, 
and  had  placed  us  in  such  situations  that  ifhe  should  not  succeed) 
his  liking  in  obtaining  the  ransom  for  the  rest,  he  could  retain  all  It 
myself  in  slavery.  All  this  appeared  to  me  practicable,  by  meti 
of  a little  assistance  from  the  Moors.  Being  placed  in  a situatii 
which  I thought  almost  hopeless,  I made  another  effort  to  open  i 
door,  attempting  it  by  as  violent  a haul  as  my  feeble  strength  wod 
admit  of.  It  succeeded.  Some  part  of  the  fastening  giving  w; 
the  door  flew  open,  and  before  it  stood  the  horse,  saddled  al 
bridled,  and  the  two  men  sitting  upon  the  ground,  eating,  or  rath 
drinking,  from  a bowl.  As  soon  as  I could  I mounted  the  hor, 


paddock’s  narrative. 


249 


nd  they,  angrily,  ordered  me  off.  I contended  that  I had  hired  the 
orse,  and  had  a right  to  ride  him.  The  Moor,  instead  of  hearken- 
■ lg  to  my  argument,  took  me  by  the  leg,  and  threatened  to  haul  me 
iff  the  horse,  which  I was  loth  to  quit,  for  fear  I should  not  recover 
im  again.  They  returned  to  the  bowl,  and  handed  it  from  the  one 
1 1 the  other,  till  three  fourths  of  it,  or  more,  were  gone,  and  then 
t iked  me  if  I would  eat  ? I desired  them  to  reach  me  the  bowl,  which 
liey  refused,  by  telling  me  if  I would  not  get  off  I should  have  none, 
unger  at  last  overcame  all  other  considerations,  and  I dismounted, 
at  still  held  the  bridle  in  my  hand.  I took  the  bowl,  and  finished 
is  contents,  which  was  sour  milk,  and  with  it  a very  little  raw  meal. 

; his  done,  Ahamed  says  to  me,  in  a surly  tone,  “ Now  get  on  the 
arse,  you  Christian  dog.”  He  and  the  Moor  then  muttered  out 
•mething  that  I did  not  understand,  but  I well  knew,  from  their  ges- 
■r  res,  that  I was  the  subject  of  it.  My  fears  of  being  left  behind 
ere  now  subsided ; fears  that  arose  from  their  secret  management, 

Ihich  I did  not  understand  the  meaning  of. 

On  the  16th,  before  day-break,  we  moved  off,  in  the  path  we  came 
, as  far  as  where  the  grain  lay,  and  then  took  a path  leading  about 
; ist-south-east,  when  pointing  to  the  north-east,  I called  out,  and 
>.id  to  them,  That  is  the  way  to  Swearah.  But  they  continued  in 
<je  same  course,  between  two  high  hills.  Daylight  now  began  to 
/apear,  when  they  stopped,  and  went  through  their  manner  of 
ayer,  which  took  up  a quarter  of  an  hour.  Very  soon  after  this 
S;  came  to  a path  leading  over  one  of  those  hills  that  were  on  our 
'ft,  and  having  for  my  compass  the  stars,  which  were  still  visible,  I 
fund  we  were  travelling  in  about  a north-east  course,  and  my  mind 
as  set  at  rest.  When  we  had  arrived  at  the  top  of  this  hill,  which 
Its  rocky,  and  of  a soil  fit  only  for  grazing,  it  opened  to  my  view  a 
magnificent  scene.  Here  the  top  of  the  Atlas  was  full  in  my  view, 
■mhibiting,  at  the  rising  of  the  sun,  what  I thought  one  of  the  most 
and  and  majestic  of  all  earthly  spectacles.  On  the  north  were 
gh  sand  hills,  giving  evidence  of  an  unproductive  soil.  But,  on 
e south  was  seen  a very  extensive  country,  abounding  with  little 
ifiiclosed  cities,  with  large  fields  of  grain,  and  with  productive  gar- 
ns.  In  short,  though  the  climate  here  is  dry  as  well  as  hot,  such 
the  extreme  fertility  of  the  soil,  that  it  is  capable  of  producing 
mrtdantly  all  the  necessaries,  and  all  the  luxuries  of  life.  What 
might  it  be  under  the  cultivation  of  a civilized,  industrious,  and  skil- 
1 people  ! From  this  hill  I expected  to  have  seen  the  ocean,  but 
as  disappointed. 

W e descended  the  hill  in  a more  northerly  course,  and  after  tra- 
iling a few  miles,  we  came  again  to  a plain  well  beaten  foot  path, 
i fich  I supposed  was  the  direct  road  from  St.  Cruez  to  Mogadore, 

• td  \vhy  they  had  left  it  this  morning  was  unaccountable  to  me.  As 
fie  were  descending,  xve  often  met  travellers,  with  loaded  camels, 
ling  westward.  About  10  o’clock  we  arrived  in  a more  level  coun- 
jjr,  which  had  some  little  appearance  of  cultivation  ; the  hills,  on 
)th  sides,  were  appropriated  mostly  to  grazing.  We  now  made 
Kedter  speed  in  our  progress,  for  the  two  men  were  constantly  for- 


150 


paddock’s  narrative 


ward  of  me,  on  the  run,  which  kept  my  horse  in  a moderate  trot, 
the  rate,  I suppose,  of  four  miles  an  hour,  where  the  travelling  w 
good,  and  of  three  miles  and  a half  on  an  average.  This  rate 
travelling  I concluded  would  carry  us  to  Mogadore  some  time  befo 
night,  along  a path  level  in  the  main,  but  rather  descending.  C 
the  sides  of  the  hills  we  saw  a few  tolerable  habitations,  and,  on  tl 
road  sides,  a few  small  dwellings,  at  one  of  which  we  stopt  afro 
noon,  borrowed  a bowl,  drew  water,  and  drank  freely  of  water  th 
was  really  good.  After  drinking,  they  mixed  together  raw  meal  ai 
water,  of  a thick  consistence,  and  ate  as  much  as  suited  them,  ai 
then  reached  me  the  bowl,  in  which  was  a larger  quantity  than  us 
al,  and  full  as  much  as  would  be  proper  for  me  to  eat  at  any  tim 
or  on  any  occasion.  However,  I finished  it. 

Proceeding  on,  we  soon  ascended  a very  hilly  country.  Tl 
wind  was  fresh,  and  the  sand  was  driven  in  much  greater  abundan 
than  I had  ever  seen  it  since  we  left  the  Arabian  country.  Wh< 
we  were  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  sand  hills,  my  two  fellow  trave 
lers  cried  out,  “Swearah!  Swearah!”  and  ran  on  at  full  speej 
For  myself,  I could  see  nothing  but  sand  hills,  nor  could  they  1 
reality.  It  was  now  as  late  as  four  o’clock  ; my  footmen  were  ru 
ning  so  fast  that  my  horse  was  kept  on  a full  trot,  over  these  hills 
drifted  sand,  and  I every  moment  was  expecting  to  behold  the  lot, 
wished  for  place  of  my  deliverance.  Several  times  the  sand  flew  i[ 
much  in  my  face  that  I was  obliged  to  shut  my  eyes,  and  let  tl 
horse  take  his  own  way.  Whenever  I could  get  sight  of  the  tv 
men,  I found  the  horse  was  following  their  track,  for  all  shape  < 
path  was  effaced  ; the  loose  sand  was  full  half  leg  deep  to  the  hors 
While  following  the  men  round  these  knolls  of  sand,  it  seemed  ton 
that  we  were  travelling  far  northward,  and  that  our  course  at  laj 
was  nearly  north-west.  I called  to  them,  but  received  no  answe1 
On  a sudden  they  disappeared,  while  descending  a steep  sand  hi 1 
and  the  next  moment  my  horse  took  down  the  same  hill,  when,  in  i 
instant,  there  opened  to  my  view  the  sea,  and  the  town  of  Mogado 
far  on  the  right,  and  only  a few  miles  distant  from  it  three  laq 
brigs  lying  at  anchor. 

Here  the  two  men  made  a full  stop,  and  Ahamed  said  to  me,  “ 
you  know  that  place  ? See  the  ships  there !”  So  great  were  rr 
emotions  at  this  sudden  change  in  my  condition,  that  I was  qui 
overcome,  and  lost  even  the  power  of  speech.  When  they  saw  tl 
tears  gushing  profusely  from  my  eyes,  they  laughed,  I suppose, : 
my  weakness  ; for  the  Arabs  consider  weeping  as  beneath  tl 
dignity  of  a man,  though  not  disgraceful  in  a wroman.  These  me 
stood  till  1 had  collected  the  manly  part,  and  then  asked  me  if 
knew  the  place,  and  the  ships,  and  what  nation  they  belonged  to 
I told  them  the  place  was  Mogadore,  and  I had  no  doubt  but  th 
ships  belonged  to  my  own  country.  The  sun  was  now  very  lov 
which  they  looked  at,  and  said  something,  and  then  ran  directly  fcj 
the  town ; they  went  with  such  speed,  that  I was  obliged  to  haste 
the  horse  to  keep  up  with  them.  When  the  sun  had  sunk  behin 
the  hills  and  disappeared,  we  were  at  a little  fresh  water  river,  the 


faddock’s  narrative. 


151 


as  about  two  miles  from  the  town  5 it  was  the  second  fresh  river 
, lat  I had  seen  in  Barbary,  after  travelling  five  hundred  and  seven- 
*--five  miles.  Here  we  made  a stop,  and  Ahamed  said  that  we 
mid  not  enter  the  town,  because  its  people  were  asleep.  I made 
r,e  of  all  the  Arabic  I was  master  of  to  persuade  him  to  go  on,  but 

I.  no  purpose  ; he  refused  in  plain  terms,  by  saying,  we  must  turn 
ick  to  the  buildings  only  a few  rods  behind  us,  where  was  a con- 
derable  collection  of  dwellings  walled  in. 

Having  no  choice  left  me,  1 dismounted,  kneeled  down  upon  some 
rail  stones,  and  drank  from  this  beautiful  little  river,  which  was 
scharging  itself  into  the  sea;  and  seeing  them  going  back,  I con- 
rued  there  washing  myself.  Soon  Ahamed  returned  from  the 
)uses,  with  the  information  that  I should  have  victuals  enough  there, 
id  bade  me  follow  him,  which  I did.  There  was  at  this  time  a great 
>dy  of  men  and  women,  with  camels  and  asses,  on  their  way  from 
Is  town,  which  satisfied  me  that  the  gates  were  shut.  Some  of 
em  stopped  at  this  place,  but  the  greater  part  went  on  ; as  they 
d not  follow  our  path,  I was  convinced  we  had  not  taken  the  near- 
<t  or  most  direct  road ; that,  however,  was  but  of  little  consequence 

I me  now.  It  being  now  dusk,  the  men  of  this  little  neighbourhood 
gan  to  assemble  together  to  see  me.  We  took  our  seat  under  the 
ill,  and  the  people  that  were  there  assembled  were  very  inquisi- 
e about  me.  Upon  Ahamed’s  telling  them  that  I was  acquaint- 
in  Swearah,  one  of  them  informed  me  that  he  carried  milk  to 
pply  the  English  there,  and  wished  to  know  who  of  them  were  my 
ends.  I mentioned  the  names  of  all  the  Englishmen  that  I had 
lard  of  there,  and  it  satisfied  him  that  I knew  them. 

He  went  into  the  yard,  and  brought  me  two  leaves  of  tobacco; 
named,  as  I concluded,  having  informed  him  that  I used  it.  I put  a 
pee  of  it  in  my  mouth,  and  gave  Ahamed  the  greater  part  of  what 
mained,  for  I concluded  that  he  had  brought  no  tobacco  with  him, 
i he  had  not  smoked  since  the  time  we  began  our  journey,  though 
i was  extravagantly  fond  of  smoking.  He  filled  his  pipe,  and  that 
i roduced  a general  smoking  match,  the  pipe  going  round  in  the 
1 aal  way  for  an  hour,  or  more,  at  the  expense  of  our  hosts  or  enter- 
tners.  About  9 o’clock  I was  conducted  into  my  apartment.  It 
His  a small  room  of  about  twelve  feet  square,  having  a door-way  cn 
outside  of  the  wall ; two  good  mats  were  provided  for  me  to 
i:ep  on,  and  a small  lamp  was  burning,  which  showed  nothing  in 
cp  room  but  naked  walls  ; it  was  unconnected  with  any  part  of  the 
Ibitation.  After  I had  laid  down  in  this  agreeable  resting  place, 
1' such  it  was  to  me,  the  Moors  flocked  all  round  me,  as  many  as 
It;  room  could  hold,  and  many  others  stood  without  the  door-way. 
Their  conversation  seemed  wholly  on  the  occurrences  relating  to 
<r  shipwreck,  the  situation  we  were  in,  in  the  desert,  the  money  wre 
Id  cost  them,  and  the  disposition  of  our  masters  to  restore  us  to 
cr  brothers  in  Sw^earah.  But  Ahamed  avoided  telling  them  how  he 
id  regretted  our  be  ng  so  far  from  the  Arabian  territory,  where,  if 
1 could  have  had  uo  back,  he  wuuld  willingly  have  disposed  of  us 


paddock’s  narrative. 


as  slaves  lor  life.  Our  visiters  told  him  there  was  no  danger  b 
the  consul  would  pay  for  my  ransom ; “ True,”  they  said,  “ he  w 
not  so  rich  as  Court,  Jackson,  and  some  others  there,  but  he  w 
good.”  It  Cannot  be  supposed,  that  in  the  short  time  I was  wi 
these  barbarians,  I could  get  to  understand  much  of  the  Arabic.  B I 
by  paying  strict  attention  to  every  word  they  spoke,  especially  wh< 
they  were  talking  about  ourselves,  I had  obtained  a little  knowled 
of  that  language,  or  rather  the  meaning  of  a considerable  number  j 
its  words,  and  forming  the  best  judgment  I could  from  what  little 
the  language  I did  know,  I put  together  and  made  out  what  I ha  I 
just  related.  It  may  be  offered  as  £ just  remark,  which  every  inti! 
ligent  man,  placed  in  a situation  similar  to  mine,  I presume  will  cc 
firm,  that  one  thus  circumstanced,  will  learn  to  understand  and 
speak  the  words  of  a strange  language  astonishingly  fast,  especia 
the  words  of  a language  so  plain,  so  soft,  and  so  easy  to  articula 
as  the  Arabic ; because  almost  every  thing  respecting  his  welfe 
depending  upon  his  learning  the  meaning  of  the  words,  he  will  gi 
his  attention  to  it  constantly,  and  with  the  utmost  earnestness. 

After  listening  to  their  conversation  a long  time,  and  being  ve| 
weary,  I fell  asleep,  but  was  soon  awaked  by  the  smell  of  broil 
beef,  on  which  the  Arab  and  the  Moor,  with  six  or  eight  besid 
were  feasting  sumptuously.  Being  extremely  hungry,  I arose,  a 
asked  for  victuals,  and  they  told  me  it  was  not  ready,  but  I shot 
have  some  by  and  by  ; so  that  I had  only  to  look  upon  these  g< 
mandizers,  and  wait  for  my  own  turn  with  great  impatience.  ( 
soon  as  their  meal  was  finished,  mine  was  brought  me,  which  was 
wonderful  mess  for  one  man,  though  the  quantity  was  not  quite 
great  as  had  been  given  me  by  the  governor  of  St.  Cruez.  W! 
was  now  set  before  me  consisted  of  about  three  pounds  ofbeefste 
broiled,  about  three  pounds  of  hot  bread  from  the  oven,  sixteen  ha 
boiled  eggs,  and  half  a pound  of  butter.  As  I was  beginning,  Ah 
med  said  to  his  company,  “ Now  see  him  eat.”  I first  broke  t 
bread,  and  eat  a little  of  it ; 1 pulled  some  of  the  meat  to  pieces,  a 
eat  of  that  about  two  ounces ; I broke  an  egg,  and  finding  it  ha 
boiled,  laid  it  down,  and  after  eating  moderately  of  the  bread,  anc 
little  butter,  I left  off,  while  my  appetite  was  still  craving  strongly  1: 
more.  I then  broke  open  a small  loaf  of  bread  still  warm,  and  pu 
little  butter  on  the  inside  of  it,  to  be  laid  between  my  mats,  und 
my  head,  and,  all  this  done,  1 gave  up  the  dish.  They  asked  r 
why  I did  not  eat,  and  if  I were  sick  ? I told  them  I was  not  sick,  ail 
gave  them  to  understand  that  eating  more  plentifully  might  inju 
me.  Upon  which  they  look  the  dish  to  themselves,  and  eat  al 
had  left,  except  the  broken  egg,  and  what  I had  polluted  with  n 
fingers  ; not  only  this  did  they  reject,  but  they  carefully  scraped  i 
the  butter  on  the  side  I had  taken  it  from. 

I fell  asleep  before  they  had  dispersed,  and  awoke  a little  befoi 
daylight,  and  after  eating  my  bread  and  butter,  I found  that  my  tvi 
keepers,  Ahamed  and  the  Moor,  were  lying  across  the  door-way,  d 
doubt  to  prevent  my  escape.  Upon  examining  the  exact  positii 
in  which  they  lay, I found  there  was  room  enough  bettveen  them  1 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


153 


e of  my  feet,  and  that  I could,  with  the  other,  reach  the  ground  be- 
nd them,  and  thus  gain  the  object  I had  in  view  : my  attempt 
oved  successful,  and  I found  myself  clear  of  them.  It  was  a 
autifully  clear  night ; by  the  bright  shining  of  the  stars  I could  see 
town  distinctly,  but  had  no  inclination  to  advance  far  that  way 
me.  While  raising  my  eyes  towards  the  firmament,  I thought  of 
rvey’s  sublime  meditations  upon  the  starry  heavens  : no  better 
jiortunity,  or  occasion,  for  serious  reflections  of  that  kind,  did 
r occur  to  me. 

Not  willing  to  disturb  my  keepers,  I advanced  softly  as  possible 
ard  the  fresh  water  river,  and  after  a hearty  drink,  I went  up  it* 
soon  finding  a little  place  deep  enough  to  bathe  in,  I took  off 
almost  worn  out  clothes,  shook  them  well,  hove  them  on  the 
d,  and  laid  myself  down,  in  this  truly  refreshing  stream,  and 
thus  enabled  to  form  an  ablution  that  my  poor  and  long  ne- 
:ted  carcass  very  much  required.  But  as  to  my  head,  and  my 
bearded  face,  the  task  was  more  difficult ; this  part  I first 
ored  with  plenty  of  sand,  as  well  as  water,  and  then  made  use  of 
mib  that  I had  picked  up  at  the  edge  of  the  desert,  and  have 
in  keeping ; by  which  several  means  I removed  the  -filth  from 
face  and  head,  and  a part  of  the  lively  occupants  from  their 
, under  the  cover  of  my  bushy  hair.  This  employment  con- 
ed for  more  than  an  hour,  and  when  it  was  ended,  I again  shook 
rags,  and  put  them  on,  and  felt  remarkably  refreshed, 
now  knew,  from  the  position  of  the  stars,  that  daylight  was 
firoaching,  and,  in  a humble  posture,  I poured  out  my  soul  to 
■Father  in  Heaven,  thanking  him  for  his  infinite  goodness  in  thus 
erving  me  from  being  destroyed  by  those  merciless  savages,  and 
loring  the  continuation  of  his  mercies,  particularly  in  pointing 
the  way,  for  myself  and  my  fellow-suffers,  to  redemption  from 
ery,  in  the  city  before  me. 


CHAP.  XIV 


rapid  race  of  my  two  keepers  inquest  of  roe— -Near  Mogadore  I am  met,  and  sa= 
bd,  by  two  Frenchmen— My  entrance  into  this  city  of  refuge— The  courtesy  of  a 
r-  toward  me — My  arrival  at  the  house  of  the  British  consul  —My  joyful  inter- 
v there  with  certain  British  sailors,  who  had  lately  been  slaves  among  the  Arabs 
■f  he  cordial  welcome  given  me  by  the  aged  consul — His  character  for  extraordi- 
By  philanthropy — He  orders  Ahamed  back,  to  bring  up  my  men — A laborious  job 
£ -having — The  ghastliness  of  my  appearance  to  myself  in  the  glass — My  visit, 
» 1 the  consul,  to  the  two  Courts — Their  engaging  friendship — My  application  to 

f American  agent,  a foreigner — The  difficulty  of  our  correspondence,  from  not 
'Wing  one  another’s  language— How  the  spur  of  necessity  quickens  one’s  pro- 
ss  in  learning  a foreign  language — My  rest  disturbed  and  broken  by  means  of  the 
ness  of  my  bed — My  conversation  with  the  sailors  that  had  belonged  to  the  ship 
J rtin  Hall — Their  story  of  the  murder  of  one  of  their  crew  by  the  Arabs — The 
c sul’s  remarks  on  the  unusually  short  time  of  our  captivity,  and  the  number  of 
i 'wrecks  on  that  coast  during  the  term  of  his  consulate— Mv  interview  with  out- 

20 


Haddock's  narrative. 


1/34 

agent — Ills  strange  advice— Our  ransom  promised  to  be  advanced  by  the  two  Corn 

— My  application  to  the  American  Consul  General  at  Tangier — His  exceedins 

sympathetic  and  benevolent  answer — The  arrival  of  my  men  at  Mogadore. 

At  the  conclusion  of  my  devotions,  Ahamed  and  the  Moor  passt 
by,  at  about  ten  paces  distant  from  me,  running,  like  horses,  t> 
ward  Mogadore.  I called  out  to  them  as  loud  as  I had  strength,  ai 
called  the  second  time,  before  they  heard  me.  They  then  imm 
diately  returned,  and  Ahamed,  in  his  furious  manner,  asked  r 
where  I had  been  ? He  cooled1  away  when  I answered,  only  to  tl 
river  to  wash  myself.  “ 1 suspected,”  he  said,  “ that  you  had  go 
to  the  city  to  evade  the  payment  of  your  ransom.”  Here  it  behoo 
cd  me  to  convince  him,  if  possible,  that  1 had  no  such  intention,  n 
the  least  disposition  to  withhold  any  thing  that  I had  promised  hit 
which  I strove  to  do,  by  telling  him,  among  other  things,  that  I wj 
knew  the  bad  effect  that  such  unfair  conduct  would  have  upon  t 
unfortunate  Christians  who  might  next  fall  into  their  hands.  A! 
med  wished  to  know  of  me  how  I had  got  out.  I explained  it  | 
him  as  well  as  I could,  and  told  him  I had  been  out  two  hours,  aj 
might  have  secreted  myself  under  the  walls  of  the  town  had  1 be, 
so  disposed. 

This  affair  being  all  settled,  and  the  day,  namely,  the  17thi 
May,  beginning  to  dawn,  they  both  fell  upon  their  knees,  bow; 
themselves  to  the  earth  as  usual,  and  made  an  uncommonly  lo 
prayer.  Ahamed,  in  the  concluding  part  of  his  prayer,  turned, '{ 
face  towards  the  city  or  town,  rvhen,  as  I supposed,  he  was  pray ij 
for  the  successful  termination  of  his  journey  ; for  it  Was  not  an  i 
common  thing  with  these  people  to  conclude  their  prayers  in  t 
manner.  When  the  sun  had  risen,  Mogadore  showed  itself  to  gr 
advantage  ; a number  of  flag-stalls,  erected  on  high  buildings, . 
pcared  as  if  belonging  to  different  consuls,  and  a number 
mosques  advantageously  showed  their  stately  towers.  A little  w 
onward  from  this  river  was  a magnificent  building,  handsomely  w;| 
ed  around,  with  singular  tops,  covered  with  tile.  • Upon  my  aski 
Ahamed  if  it  was  a place  of  worship,  he  told  me  it  was  not,  1 
was  the  Sultan’s  house  ; but  what  he  meant  by  it  I could  not  lea 
There  was  a line  of  asses,  a mile  in  length,  coming  from  the  ci 
and  also  an  abundance  of  camels,  which  showed  me  that  the  ga 
were  open.  I then  urged  Ahamed  to  go  on,  but  he  declined,  allc 
ing  for  it  that  the  consul  was  yet  asleep.  When  the  asses  had  co 
to  the  river  they  made  a stop,  and  I soon  discovered  that  every  c 
of  them  had  two  kegs  fixed  on  their  sides,  and  that  the  Moors  wo 
filling  these  kegs  with  the  water  from  the  river  ; those  with  cami 
and  the  other  travelling  party,  were  bound  southerly. 

It  was  in  vain  that  1 urged  Ahamed  to  go  on  ; he  still  object! 
to  it,  that  the  consul  was  asleep.  Our  host  now  brought  me  a lx 
of  sweet  milk,  directly  from  the  goat,  and  along  with  it  a piece 
bread,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that  nothing  could  have  tasted  more  ( ■ 
liciously.  I was  long  sipping  down  the  milk,  and  then  returr 
him  the  bowl,  with  my  hearty  thanks,  and  eat  the  sweet  bread  . 
itself.  The  sun  being  now  considerably  up,  Ahamed.  after  my  ■ 


paddock’s  narrative* 


1 55 


Seated  solicitations,  brought  me  the  horse,  and  I mounted,  and  took 
ong  the  beach,  near  the  edge  of  the  sea,  where  the  ground  was 
■m  for  travelling.  When  we  were  nearly  half  way,  or  about  one 
ile  from  the  town,  I saw  the  flags  hoisting  on  several  of  their 
lies,  and  that  one  of  them  was  English,  but  none  American.  The 
Si’igs  in  the  road  displayed  their  flags,  of  which  one  was  the  Eng- 
ili,  one,  I believe,  the  Danish,  and  one  the  Swedish  flag.  I was  now 
■dered  off  the  horse,  and  at  the  same  time  we  were  meeting  two 
en  on  foot,  in  Christian  apparel,  and  well  dressed.  They  viewed 
e attentively,  and  when  we  had  come  within  speaking  distance,  I 
ioke  to  them.  One  of  them  remained  silent,  but  the  other  made 
iswer  to  me  in  French,  and,  as  I was  but  little  acquainted  with  that 
nguage,  I could  not  converse  with  him  so  easily  as  1 wished.  He 
Id  the  appearance  of  a tender  hearted  man,  and  congratulated  me 

Ii  the  prospect  of  a speedy  recovery  of  my  liberty,  telling  me,  for 
|y  encouragement,  that  the  English  consul  would  be  very  happy  to 
:e  me,  for  he  thought,  as  it  would  seem,  that  I was  an  Englishman, 
'pon  my  inquiring  of  him,  at  our  parting,  if  there  was  an  American 
dnsul  in  town,  he  said  there  w'as  none,  and  then  he  asked  me  if  I 
rtis  an  American  ? but  to  that  question  I made  no  reply. 

!We  were  soon  at  the  city  gate,  and  were  detained  there  but  a few 
[jnutes,  just  to  give  time  for  Ahamed  to  answer  several  questions 
Iht  were  put  to  him  ; which  done,  we  were  permitted  to  enter.  As 
on  as  we  had  passed  through  the  gate,  I looked  around  me,  and 
ovoutly  exclaimed,  O Lord,  protect  me  within  these  walls  ! We  were 
few,  as  well  as  I can  recollect,  on  a pfiblic  square,  and  making  a 
ort  turn  to  the  right,  we  passed  through  several  streets,  and,  at 
eery  corner,  I looked  each  way,  in  expectation  of  seeing  some  per- 
si  in  a Christian  habit.  Having  turned  round  several  corners, 
10  narrow  straight  streets,  we  came  at  last  to  a very  large  double 
or,  at  which  Ahamed  knocked  several  times,  but  received  no  an- 
^er.  I asked  him  if  this  was  the  consul's  ? But  before  he  had  time 
treply,  a man  came  running  up  to  us,  and  inquired  of  me,  in  good 
Iglish,  -who  I was?  Upon  my  telling  him,  he  says,  “Come  along 
l:h  me,  and  I will  show  you  the  way  to  the  consul’s;  this  is  the 
fttery,  and  the  governor  having  gone  back,  you  cannot  see  him 
fei  then  turning  to  Ahamed,  he  told  him,  in  Arabic,  to  go  along 
v:h  him.  We  walked  off,  followed  by  a throng  of  men  and  chil- 
t;n,  who  had  been  gathered  round  me,  to  see  who  I was.  AVhile 
v were  walking  together,  I found  out  that  the  man  I was  talking 
vh  was  a Jew. 

W e soon  came  to  the  consul’s  door,  on  which  I gave  three  distinct 
lacks,  when  its  latch  was  raised,  and  the  door  I pushed  openj 
Sich  led  me  into  the  yard  that  was  in  the  centi^  of  the  buildings, 
f aring  men  talking  above,  and  there  being  a stone  stair- way  on 
t left,  I ascended,  and  at  the  head  of  the  stairs  I saw  six  or  eight 
v 11  looking  sailors,  who,  the  moment  they  got  their  eyes  on  me, 
v hed  forward,  knowing  of  course  that  I was  a shipwrecked  seaman, 
ler  bidding  me  welcome,  in  their  peculiar  way,  their  inquiry  of  me 


I £6 


paddock’s  narrative. 


was,  if  I had  seen  any  of  the  Martin  Hall’s  crew  ? and  when  I told  the 
that  three  of  that  crew  were  with  my  men,  and  that  another  of  them 
had  seen,  who  had  been  left  with  the  wild  Arabs,  their  joy  on  tl 
occasion  was  expressed  in  their  own  way,  but  was  as  sincere  i 
doubt  as  if  they  had  expressed  it  in  the  most  refined  language.  Oil 
among  them,  a lusty  good  looking  son  of  Neptune,  says  to  m 
“ You  are  an  American.”  When  these  emotions  had  a little  su 
sided,  I asked  for  the  consul,  and  one  of  them,  after  telling  me  1 
was  asleep,  ran  to  his  door,  and  called  out,  “ Mr.  Gwyn,  Mr.  Gwy 
an  English  captain  is  here  from  the  Arab  coast,  and  the  Arabs  wi] 
him.” 

I heard  him  answer  something,  and  in  one  minute  open  came  li 
door,  and  he  presented  himself  to  me  with  nothing  on  but  his  shil 
and  breeches.  Never  can  I forget  the  cordial  reception  he  ga’i 
me.  u My  good  friend,”  he  said,  “ how  happy  am  I to  see  yoi 
Wait  a little  till  I dress  myself.”  He  returned,  leaving  me  with  til 
sailors,  who  I found  were  of  the  Martin  Hall’s  crew.  They  all  hu 
died  around  me,  like  so  many  children  around  an  adored  parent,  as 
ing  the  same  questions  over  and  over  again.  Soon  the  venerab 
old  gentleman,  consul  Gwyn,  came  to  us,  dressed,  and  in  a tru 
friendly  manner  shook  hands  with  me  the  second  time,  and  th 
said,  “ Come  with  me,  my  breakfast  is  ready.”  While  I was  fi 
lowing  him  to  his  room,  he  made  a stop,  and  asked  me  to  what  pc 
of  England  my  ship  belonged?  Upon  this,  I told  him  that  I h; 
been  carrying  on  a piece  of  deception,  but  which  I believed  had  i| 
jured  no  man  ; that  I had  all  along  called  myself  an  Englishma 
with  a view  of'  gaining  my  freedom,  as  1 was  fearful  there  was  t 
American  consul  here ; and  that  in  fact  I was  an  American,  belon 
ing  to  the  State  of  New-York,  and  my  ship  also  belonging  there.  | 

He  paused  but  a moment  only,  when  he  said,  “ Very  well ; ytj 
are  a Christian,  and  that  is  enough.”  I hastily  asked  him  if  I we  !i 
safe  from  the  Arabs  ? He  answered,  “ Yes,  you  are  in  no  danger 
He  advanced  to  his  breakfast-table,  and  we  took  our  tea,  with  son 
excellent  bread  and  butter;  and  an  invaluable  repast  it  was  to  m 
In  the  midst  of  my  story  to  the  consul,  Captain  William  Forrester,  i 
the  English  brig  Friendship,  of  London,  who  had  seen  me  pa ; 
along  the  beach  to  the  city,  called  in  to  see  me  here;  and  for  Jv 
politeness  he  has  my  thanks.  After  breakfast  was  over,  1 asked  tl 
consul  if  we  had  no  consular  agent  here  l His  reply  was,  “I  a 
sorry  to  inform  you  that  your  consular  agent  has  been  disgraced  I 
the  Emperor,  and  ordered  to  leave  his  dominions.  He  is  now  cj 
board  this  gentleman’s  (Captain  Forrester’s)  brig,  the  Friendship 
he  is  not  an  American — he  is,  if  I remember  right,  a Genoese,  arj 
is  very  much  of  a gentleman.”  He  added,  “ Your  consul  genera 
Mr.  Simpson,  resides  in  Tangier,  and  to  him  must  you  apply  for  n 
lief.  1 will  do  every  thing  in  my  power  for  you,  but  I am  poor,  ar!j 
cannot  advance  money  for  your  ransom  ; but  beyond  doubt  there  at 
gentlemen  here  who  will  do  it.”  I told  him  1 was  in  fear  of  my  mi 
being  dragged  back  to  the  country  of  the  Arabs : upon  which  1 
’died  for  Ahamed,  who,  with  the  Moor,  was  sitting  by  the  kifcU 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVEo 


lo7 


oor,  and  interrogated  him  as  to  the  place  where  my  men  were  ; and 
’ter  he  had  described  it  in  the  same  manner  that  1 had,  he  told  him 
go  and  bring  the  whole  of  them  up.  Ahamed,  in  reply,  inquired 
' the  consul  if  he  would  pay  the  ransom  for  us,  together  with  all 
at  I had  promised  him  besides  ? 

The  consul  then,  directing  his  discourse  to  me,  asked  me  what  I 
id  promised  ? whereupon  I went  on  to  tell  him  every  promise  I 
id  made  in  that  case,  and  he  interpreted  it  to  Ahamed,  who  ac- 
lowledged  that  my  statement  was  correct ; and  the  consul  said  to 
Very  well,  that  shall  all  be  paid.”  Next  came  on  the  Moor 
r his  claims,  which  he  stated  precisely  as  had  been  agreed  upon 
tween  us,  enumerating  as  items  of  charge  against  me,  his  carrying 
my  letter,  his  right  of  pay  for  two  horses,  though  one  of  them  was 
ft  behind,  his  demand  of  additional  pay  for  giving  me  the  exclusive 
ivilege  of  riding  the  remaining  horse,  and  so  on.  In  fact,  he  made 


long:  a story  of  it,  that  the  consul  laughed  heartily.  When  the 


oor  had  gone  through  with  his  claims,  the  consul  gave  me  the 
tglish  of  them  ; and  upon  my  observing  to  him  that  the  Moor  had 
d the  truth,  “ Well,”  he  says,  “ the  fellow  has  imposed  upon 
u,  but  under  all  the  circumstances,  I believe  it  best  to  pay  him.” 
tcordingly,  he  immediately  paid  off  the  Moor,  and  1 added  to  it  a 
nch  of  good  Virginia  tobacco. 

The  consul,  now  addressing  himself  to  Ahamed,  said,  “ 1 order 
u to  return  to  our  men,  and  before  the  night  of  the  third  day,  do 
u make  your  appearance  before  the  gates  of  this  city,  together 
th  all  my  brothers  that  are  in  your  keeping.”  “ I will  do  it,”  re- 
ed Ahamed,  “ if  you  will  pay  me  my  price  for  their  ransom,  and 
t otherwise ; for  Rias,”  pointing  to  me,  “ assured  me  that  if  I 
uuld  come  here  with  him,  he  would  return  with  me,  and  carry  the 
')ney  with  him,  and  pay  it  there.”  “ The  money,”  replied  the 
nsul  to  him,  “ shall  not  be  paid  there,  but  here.  1 never  did,  nor 
er  will  pay  money  for  my  brothers  until  I can  see  them ; and  as  to  the 
[ice,  I must  see  them  before  my  mind  can  be  made  up  with  respect 
it.”  Ahamed  continued  to  urge  his  claim  till  the  consul,  becom- 
g a little  impatient,  called  his  servant,  and  said  to  him,  “ Go  to 
ft  governor,  and  tell  him  from  me,  that  ten  of  my  brothers  are  on 
s side  of  St.  Cruez,  in  possession  of  the  Arabs,  who  refuse  to  bring 
|em  up  ; and  that  1 demand  of  him  twenty  soldiers  to  be  despatch- 
| for  them  immediately.”  Ahamed  attentively  listened  to  these  or- 
rs,  and  before  the  servant  had  reached  the  street-door,  he  begged 
it  he  might  be  called  back,  and  promised  to  go  himself,  and  bring 
men  on  ; accordingly  he  set  off  without  delay.  It  was  after  he 
d gone,  that  the  consul  (old  me  the  story  which  I have  now  related. 
As  my  fears  with  regard  to  the  safety  of  my  men  were  by  no  means 
an  end,  I mentioned  those  fears  to  the  consul,  and  queried  with 
n as  to  the  possibility  of  the  Arabs  getting  them  back  to  their  own 
ritory,  telling  him  1 knew  from  what  the  English  boys  had  related 
me  of  their  conversation,  that  they  had  regretted  their  having  come 
so  far  with  us  ; and  that,  as  the  expense  would  be  trifling,  I desired 
a to  send  some  one  down,  if  it  were  only  to  watch  the  Arabs  there,  as 


idu  fAnpOCK’s  NARRATIVE. 

in  case  they  should  attempt  to  carry  my  men  back,  the  governor  of 
St.  Cruez,  on  being  apprized  of  it,  might  at  any  moment  stop  them 
and  send  them  up.  “ Quiet  your  mind,”  replied  the  consul  to  me, 
“ I have  been  here  in  this  town  for  more  than  thirty  years,  and  have  : 
ransomed  from  slavery  a number  of  British  subjects  : I know  what 
kind  of  people  I have  to  deal  with,  and  I know  their  language.”  He 
then  furnished  me  with  some  of  his  own  clothes,  and  called  in  one  j 
of  the  English  sailors  to  shave  and  cleanse  me ; and  such  was  the  J 
sad  condition  of  my  long  and  thick  beard,  and  of  my  head,  that  it ! 
was  full  an  hour  before  the  operation  of  shaving  and  cleansing  was j 
completed.  After  this  painful  operation  was  over,  and  a clean  white 
shirt  and  a handkerchief  were  put  on,  I returned  to  the  room,  whei’e 
I found  my  aged  friend,  preparing  for  church.  The  church-service 
was  usually  attended  by  the  Episcopalians  in  the  town,  in  the  con- 
sul’s room,  and  having  no  clergyman,  he  had  officiated  himself.  Till 
then,  I thought  it  was  the  last  day  of  the  week,  and  the  17th  of  May, 
but  now  found  it  to  be  the  first  day  of  the  week,  and  the  18th  of  the 
month;  how  or  where  I lost  a day,  1 was  not  able  to  account  for, 
nor  did  I think  it  remarkable  that  such  a mistake  should  happen, 
considering  the  condition  I had  so  long  been  in.  I now,  for  the  first 
time  since  the  event  of  my  shipwreck,  took  a look  in  the  glass,  and 
it  gave  me  a shock,  which  1 did  not  get  over  for  a long  while ; such' 
a ghastliness  I think  I never  saw,  in  a body  that  had  life  and  motion.; 

After  this,  the  consul  proposed  to  me  to  walk  out  with  him,  inj; 
order  to  see  about  the  ransom  of  myself  and  my  crew.  We  went  to 
the  house  of-  William  and  Alexander  Court,  and  found  these  gentle- 
men on  the  tcrrace-roofs  of  their  dwelling.  I was  introduced  to 
them,  who  appeared  to  have  very  humane  feelings  for  me,  and  who 
congratulated  me  on  my  safe  arrival  to  that  city.  When  I had  made 
them  acquainted  with  the  object  of  our  visit,  and  solicited  them  toi 
advance  a sufficient  sum  for  the  ransom  of  myself  and  crew,  they  ; 
manifested  a disposition  to  relieve  us.  They  spoke  in  the  highest 
terms  of  our  consul-general  at  Tangier,  and  observed  to  me,  that  we 
had  an  agent  in  the  Road,  and  that  although  his  functions  had  ceas- 
ed, yet  he  was  still  within  the  empire,  and  they  recommended  it  toi 
me  to  apply  to  him  first,  as  it  would  put  me  in  the  way  of  knowing! 
how  to  proceed.  As  I thought  that  a judicious  mode  of  procedure,  1 i 
readily  consented  to  adopt  it. 

We  left  these  gentlemen,  after  accepting  their  kind  invitation  to 
dine  with  them,  and  I returned  to  my  friend’s  house  to  devise  means 
to  come  at  our  agent,  who,  I found,  could  not  speak  English.  It, 
was  there  proposed  that  I should  address  him  in  a letter,  which  If) 
did,  and  briefly  stated  to  him  all  the  facts  relating  to  my  case  ; and 
my  friend,  the  consul,  on  perusing  it,  pronounced  it  proper.  As  the 
agent  could  notread  English,  the  difficulty  was  to  make  him  under-: 
stand  my  letter.  There  happened  to  be  there  at  this  time,  a Genoese 
captain,  who  could  talk  in  English  very  well,  but  could  not  read  it : 
him  captain  Forrester  took  on  board  jhe  Friendship,  and  read  the 
letter  to  him,  and  he  gave  a verbal  translation  of  it  to  the  agent.  It 
was  with  all  this  difficulty,  that  1 conveyed  to  an  American  agent,  the 


153 


paddock’s  narrative. 

account  of  my  situation,  and  of  my  wants  ; and  lie  wrote  me  back 
an  answer  in  French.  I was  unable  to  make  out  the  meaning  of  this 
letter  myself,  but  was  assisted  therein  by  my  friend,  the  consul,  who 
understood  the  French,  and  he,  as  I thought,  and  still  think,  found 
something  in  it  which  he  did  not  wish  me  to  know.  After  he  had 
read  it  to  me,  he  appeared  a little  embarrassed,  and  proposed  going 
with  me  next  morning  on  board  the  Friendship.  He  had  not  his 
usual  religious  meeting  this  day ; my  situation  requiring  his  time  and 
'attention,  was  what  probably  occasioned  its  omission. 

An  English  gentleman,  John  Foxcroft,  occupied  the  adjoining 
house,  and  came  to  see  me.  His  wife  (mentioned  in  a following 
page)  was  indisposed  at  the  time.  To  find  such  society  was  very 
comforting  to  me.  At  2 o’clock  we  went  to  dine  at  Court’s.  The  two 
brothers,  and  Mr.  Alexander  Court’s  wife  and  daughter,  with  several 
ethers,  were  there,  and  particularly  the  French  gentleman  I had 
met  in  the  morning,  without  the  gate,  was  one  of  the  guests.  It  be- 
ing a mixt  company,  and  the  gentlemen  all  understanding  French, 

\ that  was  the  language  made  use  of  at  this  dinner  party;  and  as  I 
> could  not  join  in  their  conversation,  it  was  in  a good  measure  made 
up  to  me  by  the  agreeable  discourse  I had  with  Mr.  Alexander  Court’s 
wife,  and  his  daughter,  of  about  twelve  years  old.  The  French  gen- 
tleman at  the  table  repeatedly  spoke  to  me  in  his  own  language, 
and,  upon  my  telling  him  that  I did  not  understand  it,  he  said,  “ You 
< talked  to  me  good  French  in  the  morning.”  I mention  this  circum- 
i stance  to  convince,  if  possible,  the  incredulous,  who  may  wonder, 
stlf  and  think  it  past  belief,  that  I could  learn  the  Arabic  so  fast,  as  it 
i would  seem  I did,  from  my  own  account.  Whoever  is  driven  to  the 
necessity  of  learning  a thing  so  important  to  him,  that  almost  his  very 
existence  depends  upon  his  learning  it,  will  use  such  exertions,  as 
si  -under  other  circumstances,  would  either  be  impossible  in  itself,  or 
twould  seem  beyond  his  power.  It  is  true,  I had  been  a great  deal 
i among  the  French,  and  knew  many  of  their  words,  but  as  linguists 
ar  interpreters  were  easily  obtained,  I had  not  taken  pains  to  leam 
jtheir  language.  But  in  the  instance  of  my  meeting  this  Frenchman 
in  the  morning,  so  occupied  was  my  mind  with  the  fear  of  not  being 
ransomed  in  case  of  no  American  consul  being  in  the  city,  and  so 
anxious  I then  was  to  obtain  information  about  a matter  upon  which 
my  all,  as  it  were  depended,  that  I found  French  words  enough  to  put 
together  for  answering  the  purpose. 

We  spent  the  afternoon  and  the  evening  at  the  Courts’,-  and  re- 
: turned  home  at  eleven.  Through  the  anxiety  of  my  old  friend  to 
do  me  all  the  service  he  could  in  more  important  matters,  he  had 
neglected  to  get  a bed  prepared  for  me,  and  for  this  he  apologized. 

!tle  had  in  the  room  a sofa,  with  a sheet  and  blanket,  and  with  this  I 
made  a bed,  and  retired  to  rest  at  twelve.  Soon  I fell  into  a fine 
sleep,  but  after  a short  nap,  I awoke,  utterly  insensible  of  my  situa- 
tion. Having  lost  all  recollection  of  being  at  Mogadore,  I sprung 
■from  my  bed,  nor  did  I conceive  where  I was,  till  I had  walked 
r across  the  room  and  looked  out  of  the  window’,  into  the  yard.  It 
liwas  like  a dream.  I got  my  shoes,  rolled  the  blanket  round  me, 


160 


paddock’s  narrative. 


and  walked  the  room  for  two  hours.  Beyond  description  was  the  ■ 
contrast  between  a clean  soft  bed  with  warm  covering,  and  lying  in 
a goat-pen  among  filth,  or  on  hard  rocks,  in  the  open  air,  shivering 
with  cold  for  hours  together,  before  my  eyes  could  be  closed  in 
sleep. 

After  wearying  myself,  I laid  down  again,  and  slept  till  morning, 
and  arose  very  much  refreshed  ; when  finding  the  stair- way  leading  to, 
the  roof,  1 ascended  and  had  a grand  view,  for  the  house  was  high, 
and  nearly  overlooked  the  whole  city ; and  the  view  at  the  sea- 
board took  up  full  one  half  of  the  compass,  as  the  city  is  situated 
on  a point  of  land.  After  walking  this  terrace  awhile,  the  sailors 
turned  out  and  were  walking  under  the  piazza,  and  1 went  down 
and  joined  their  company.  There  were  ten  or  a dozen  of  them, 
the  mate,  boatswain,  and  cooper,  and  the  others,  common  sailors. 

I learned  from  them  that  the  consul  was  not  accustomed  to  rise 
till  about  eight  o’clock,  and  it  was  now  only  six.  My  ideas  were 
that  as  soon  as  we  should  be  ransomed,  we  might  have  liber- 
ty to  go  off’ in  the  first  vessel ; but  these  sailors  informed  me  that  all 
Christians  ransomed  from  the  Arabs  were  considered  as  prisoners 
to  the  emperor,  and  u'ere  not  suffered  to  depart  unless  by  his  spe- 
cial order  in  writing.  That  circumstance  1 suppose  the  consul  for- 
got to  mention  to  me,  and  even  if  he  had,  it  would  not  have  occupied 
my  thoughts  scarcely  a moment ; for  not  feeling  perfectly  easy 
or  secure  about  the  ransom  of  myself  and  my  poor  fellow  sufferers, 

I had  at  the  time  full  enough  of  trouble  to  bear,  without  making  to 
myself  any  more. 

While  conversing  with  these  sailors,  I perceived  their  sincere 
sympathy  for  me.  They,  poor  fellows,  had  suffered  much  them- 
selves, and  some  belonging  to  their  crew  I believe  had  not  yet  been 
heard  from.  The  rescuing  of  their  three  boys,  Laura,  Bob,  and! 
Jack,  they  attributed  to  my  exertions.  These  boys,  they  observed, 
the  Arabs  wrould  like  to  have  retained,  as  being  serviceable  to  them 
in  tending  their  flocks ; and,  as  they  were  of  a tender  age,  they 
would  soon  become  discouraged,  and  through  despair  of  being  ran- 
somed might  at  last  embrace  the  faith  of  those  Mahometans,  and 
spend  their  remaining  days  with  them.  As  to  Laura,  I believe  they 
were  mistaken;  he  was  a determined,  resolute  boy,  and  his  spirit 
not  easily  curbed.  In  the  course  of  my  conversation  with  these 
men  lately  redeemed  from  Barbarian  slavery,  I ascertained  the  cause 
and  manner  of  the  violent  death  of  one  of  their  crew.  Their  tra- 
gical story  was  this  : “ As  soon  as  the  Arabs  had  got  us  in  their  pos-  ; 
session,  they  fell  to  stripping  us  of  whatever  they  took  a fancy  to ; j 
we  all  gave  up  to  them,  but  one,  who  made  resistance,  and,  in  the 
scuffle  he  no  doubt  struck  or  hurt  his  antagonist,  who,  with  his  scim- 
etar,  struck  him  in  the  face.  This  was  no  sooner  seen  by  the  rest 
of  the  gang,  than  they  ran  to  the  assistance  of  their  brother  Arab, 
and  plunged  their  scimetars  into  the  body  of  our  man ; the  poor  j 
fellow  fell,  and  those  ferocious  savages  continued  to  plunge  that  I 
weapon  of  death  into  his  body,  for  some  time  after  he  had  done 
breathing.” 


paddock’s  narrative. 


16i 


The  consul  had  now  made  his  appearance,  at  an  hour  earlier  than 
usual.  According  to  his  custom,  he  called  upon  his  servant  for 
breakfast,  but,  before  it  was  ready,  we  had  a long  conversation  to- 
other relative  to  the  situation  I was  in.  He  inquired  of  me  in  the 
first  place,  how  I had  rested,  tod  said,  I should  have  a bed  ready 
against  the  next  night.  1 desired  of  him  that  it  might  not  be  a more 
soft  one,  since  by  reason  of  the  softness  of  the  one  I had  had,  I was 
lot  able  to  sleep  for  half  the  night.  He  then,  without  reserve,  made 
me  acquainted  with  his  own  pecuniary  circumstances,  which  were 
ow  indeed.  He  told  me  had  formerly  been  connected  with  a com- 
nercial  establishment,  and  had  failed  in  business,  and  that  his  fees  of 
office  were  inadequate  to  his  support  ; that  he  dined  out  every  day 
of  the  week,  Monday  excepted  ; that  his  friends  were  very  kind  to 
lim,  and  never  refused  him  any  aid  he  asked  them  for ; and  he  added, 

, I have  no  doubt  that  you  will  be  a welcome  guest  at  every  place 
requented  by  myself,  and  since  you  have  no  consul  here,  1 wish 
rrou  to  stay  with  me  and  fare  as  I do ; your  company  will  not  only 
)e  agreeable  to  me,  but  in  many  cases  advantageous,  as  1 am  old 
tnd  infirm,  and  you  can  render  me  assistance.  In  reply  to  this, 
ifter  returning  him  my  hearty  thanks  for  his  kind  dispositions  to- 
vards  me,  I told  him  I should  rather  live  with  him  than  with  any 
ther  person,  but  I could  not  consent  to  live  on  him  or  his  friends,  as 
was  under  no  necessity  of  being  dependent  for  my  living  on  any 
tody,  though  if  he  would  permit  me  to  stay  with  him,  and  let  it  be  at 
ay  own  expense  at  last,  I should  stay  with  the  feeling  of  indepen- 
lence,  and  at  the  same  time  with  the  feeling  of  gratitude  towards 
limself.  His  answer  expressed  a wish  that  I should  remain  with 
lim  without  any  pecuniary  consideration,  and  the  subject  being  of 
oo  delicate  a nature  for  me  to  urge  with  a man  possessing  a heart 
o pure  and  benevolent  as  his,  I dropt  it. 

After  dropping  this  subject,  I took  up  the  inquiry  as  to  whether 
he  payment  of  the  money  for  our  ransom  would,  of  itself  alone,  re- 
tore us  to  our  liberty;  and  he  confirmed  what  the  sailors  had  told 
bout  that  matter.  Our  case,  he  said,  must  be  laid  before  the  empe- 
or,  who  would  give  us  liberty  to  return  home  whenever  he  thought 
t proper,  and,  being  a capricious  monarch,  it  was  always  uncertain 
s to  what  measures  he  would  pursue.  He  asked  me  when  I was 
vrecked,  and  where  ? And  upon  my  telling  him  that  the  time  of  our 
nisfortune  was  the  third  day  of  April,  he  was  surprised  at  our  arriv- 
ng  at  Mogadore  so  soon,  and  said  that  we  had  been  favoured  be- 
'ond  any  crew  that  had  ever  been  wrecked  during  the  whole  time  of 
us  residing  there.  He  observed  to  me,  that  according  to  a general 
alculation  made  upon  that  subject,  those  captives  that  perished,  or 
lied  among  the  natives,  were  in  the  average  proportion  of  one  third 
if  the  whole,  and  that  eight  months  were  considered  as  a short  time 
or  the  remaining  two-thirds  to  get  relief.  I think  he  told  me,  there 
>ad  been  thirty  ships  wrecked  on  the  Arabian  coast,  within  the  term 
f thirty  years,  but  no  American  ship  but  mine.  « 

We  took  our  breakfast,  and  he  observed  to  me  that  I ate  very 
naringlv.  I told  him  my  appetite  was  a craving  one.  but  I thought 

.21 


5 


Vfyl  PADDOCK  3 NARRATIVE. 

it  best  not  to  give  it  full  indulgence.  Then,  in  brief,  I related  to 
him  the  sufferings  I had  gone  through,  my  long  privations  as  to 
victuals  and  drink,  the  extremity  of  my  hunger  and  thirst,  hoiv  I had 
to  eat  and  drink  any  thing  whatever  that  was  eatable  and  drinkable, 
though  bad  as  bad  could  be ; how  I sljpt  out  in  the  open  air,  expos- 
ed to  the  cold  chilly  winds,  and  sometimes  drenched  with  heavy 
dews ; and  that,  although  my  constitution  at  the  best  was  but  a fee- 
ble one,  yet  I had  never  taken  so  much  as  the  slightest  cold,  nor  ex- 
perienced the  least  disorder  in  my  bowels,  nor  did  ever  have  an  un- 
pleasant dream,  during  the  whole  of  that  time  ; and  furthermore,: 
that  there  were  not  many  complaints  of  bodily  indisposition  among! 
my  crew.  This  was  astonishing  to  the  consul,  and  not  less  astonish- 
ing was  it,  nor  has  it  ever  been,  to  myself. 

We  now  repaired  on  board  the  Friendship  to  see  our  agent,  with 
whom  I conversed  on  the  subject  of  our  ransom,  through  the  consul.  , 
as  my  interpreter.  The  agent  treated  me  very  politely,  but  observ-; 
ed  that  it  was  entirely  out  of  his  power  to  do  me  the  least  service : 
that  unfortunately  he  was  under  orders  to  depart  out  of  the  empire, 
and  was  not  now  to  be  considered  as  an  agent;  he  spoke  freely  o 
my  affairs,  and  expressed  his  regret  that  he  could  give  me  no  aid.! 
I could  thank  him  only  for  his  civilities,  and  his  good  wishes  for  me 
In  the  course  of  this  conversation,  he  observed  to  the  consul,  that  he 
knew  of  nothing  better  to  do  with  myself  and  crew,  than  to  deliver 
us  up  to  the  governor  for  ransom.  I understood  him  at  the  moment 
but  did  not  know  the  meaning  or  purport  of  this  advice.  The  con 
sul  replied  to  him,  that  Messrs.  Courts  would  pay  for  our  ransom 
but  as  he  was  the  agent  for  our  country,  they  thought  it  best  that  he 
should  be  spoken  to  on  the  subject,  previously  to  their  commencing 
on  that  business,  as  it  might  be  his  choice  that  some  other  person  oi 
persons  should  act  in  his  behalf  in  that  case.  After  he  had  express  !1 
ed  himself  well  pleased  with  the  mode  of  procedure  suggested 
namely,  that  the  Courts  should  advance  the  money  for  us,  he  re  i 
commended  it  to  me  to  write  to  our  consul-general,  and  to  him  make 
a statement  of  our  situation,  adding,  that  he  was  a man  of  an  excel  i 
lent  character.  Here  our  conversation  ended,  and  we,  the  consu 
and  myself,  returned  to  the  shore.  The  name  of  this  America? 
agent,  I cannot  recollect : as  I noticed  at  the  beginning,  my  paper* 
are  lost ; otherwise,  I should  have  his  name,  and  would  add  to  this 
narrative  my  letter  and  his  answer. 

While  we  were  making  our  passage  ashore,  I asked  the  consu 
what  the  agent  meant  by  giving  us  up  to  the  governor?  As  near  a: 

1 can  recollect,  he  answered  me  as  follows : “ Whenever  any  ship 
wrecked  seamen  are  brought  here  for  ransom,  and  their  governmen 
has  no  resident  consul,  or  agent,  to  redeem  them,  the  governo 
of  this  place  is  under  orders  from  the  emperor  to  pay  for  their  ran 
som,  which  is  commonly  at  a low  rate,  and  either  to  detain  thee 
here,  or  send  them  to  him,  who  would  then  proceed  to  inform  thei ' 
government  of  the  fact,  and  dispose  of  them  according  as  he  and  lha 
government  might  agree  between  themselves.  With  respect  to  you 
cage,  added  the  consul,  were  you  given  up  to  the  governor  for  ran 


sr  >i  ni  F ■> 


paddock’s  narrative? 


163- 


som,  probably  you  would  be  detained  for  two  years  or  longer  ; and 
to  the  United  States,  an  expense  of  no  small  magnitude  would  be 
created.  But  for  myself,  I am  happy  to  say,  that  such  a thing  would 
not  have  been  permitted  at  Mogadore ; too  much  philanthropy  in 
its  noble-hearted  Christian  inhabitants,  had  already  been  evinced,  to 
leave  any  room  for  apprehensions  that  they  would  suffer  us  to  be 
given  up  to  the  governor;  and  besides,  our  consul-general  at  Tan- 
gier was  one  of  the  best  of  men.  I merely  relate  what  actually  oc- 
icurred  at  this  visit,  and  without  any  wish  or  intendon  to'censure  our 
agent  as  wanting  in  humanity.  Perhaps  he  felt  a little  differently  in 
his  degraded  condition,  from  what  he  wrould  if  he  had  been  on  shore, 
and  in  affluence.  At  any  rate,  for  whatever  I heard  to  the  contrary 
at  Mogadore,  he  was  an  honest  man. 

On  our  landing,  we  repaired  to  the  counting-house  of  the  two 
Courts,  who  instantly  agreed  to  pay  our  ransom.  They  provided  for 
ne  a courier  to  carry  a letter  to  the  consul-general,  and  to  that  gen- 
:leman  I wrote  an  account  of  my  situation,  stating  to  him  all  the  par- 
iculars,  and  requesting  him  to  point  out  to  me  the  course  I should 
aursue, — observing  that  I considered  myself  subject  to  his  direction, 
f I recollect  aright,  the  courier,  who  went  on  foot  in  preference  to 
iding,  was  to  have  thirty  dollars  for  this  service,  and  wras  to  return 
n twenty-four  days.  He  accomplished  the  undertaking  by  the 
ime  agreed  on,  and  brought  me  an  answer  from  that  worthy  charac- 
er,  couched  in  such  tender  and  soothing  language,  as  made  an  im- 
iression  on  my  mind,  which  time  can  never  efface.  His  congratu- 
: itions  with  me  on  my  release  from  cruel  bondage,  and  his  thanks  to 
he  Courts  for  their  humane  interference  in  my  behalf,  seemed  sponta- 
eously  to  have  flowed  from  the  warmest  of  hearts.  He  recommended 
on §a  me  economy  of  expense  as  to  the  support  of  my  men,  reminding  me 
hat  I no  doubt  knew  the  laws  of  my  country  relating  to  the  allowance 
a be  made  by  our  foreign  consuls  to  indigent  seamen,  and  at  the  same 
:me  observed  that  our  case  was  an  extraordinary  one,  and  would  be 
o viewed  by  our  government ; and  as  it  w7as  the  first  instance  of  an 
American  shipwreck  on  the  coast  of  Barbary,  he  thought  that  an  ex- 
lanation  of  it  from  me  to  our  Secretary  of  State  would  be  needful, 
nd  accordingly  he  advised  me  to  wait  upon  the  Secretary  for  that 
urpose,  as  soon  as  I should  arrive  in  America.  And  he  w'rote  to 


rcli 

-4. 


■i 


ie  that  he  would  furnish  me  with  whatever  sum  I should  want  on 
ly  own  private  account,  and  take  my  bill  on  whomsoever  I should 
hoose  to  draw.  This  unlimitedcreditto  me, a perfect  stranger,  was  the 
xongest  evidence  of  the  sincerity  and  benevolence  of  his  heart ; but 
aving  been  otherwise  provided  for,  I had  no  occasion  to  accept 
hat  he  so  kindly  proffered  me. 

It  was  on  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  or  21st,  when  from  the  terrace 
discovered  my  men.  I went  out  to  meet  them,  and  the  English 
iilors  all  followed  me.  As  soon  as  wre  had  come  together,  I hastily 
>ld  them  we  were  all  safe ; that  though  we  had  no  American  consul 
ere,  we  had  friends  enough.  Joy  was  seen  in  every  countenance, 
fe  all  marched  off  together  to  the  consul’s  house,  where  their  names 
nd  ages  were  all  taken  dowrn;  and  having  received  a message  from 


164 


paddock’s  narrative. 

the  governor,  ordering  us  to  repair  to  the  Battery  gate,  we  all  went 
to  it.  Consul  Gwyn  was  asked  a few  questions  concerning  us,  the 
first  of  which  was,  whether  we  were  Englishmen  ? He  replied,  wc 
were  not,  but,  what  was  the  same  thing,  we  were  his  brothers,  anc 
he  wished  to  ransom  and  keep  us.  The  governor  asked  me  a feu 
questions,  particularly  as  to  the  place  where  we  were  wrecked,  how 
many  of  our  men  had  been  left  in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs,  and  sc 
forth.  He  then  turned  to  the  Arabs,  and  told  them  to  bring  all  the 
Christians  up  as  soon  as  they  were  wrecked,  and  not  suffer  them  tc 
perish  in  the  desert;  which  injunction  the  Arabs  promised  to  obey 
■ — and  the  governor  then  dismissed  us. 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  opinion  of  William  Court  and  Consul  Gwyn  respecting  (he  ransoming  of  Chris  ( 
tian  slaves — Ahamed’s  jealousy  on  his  finding  me  an  American — The  aid  given  m1 
by  a friendly  Jew  in  quitting  him — The  payment  of  our  ransom  by  the  two  Court 
—The  upshot  of  the  keg  of  dollars  hidden  by  me  in  the  barrel  of  beef — Regulation 
of  the  market  at  Alogadore — Unusual  cheapness  of  cattle,  occasioned  hy  the  plagu 
—The  regulations  at  Mogadore  with  respect  to  imports  and  exports  -The  Jail, 
against  any  but  Mahometans  riding  on  horseback — The  degraded  condition  of  tlr 
Jews  there— The  uncommonness  of  Christians  and  Jews  turning  Mahometans— Th 
apostacy  of  boy  Jack— -Exultation  of  the  Moors  on  that  occasion— Fairness  of  salq 
and  cheapness  of  living— My  conversation  With  the  consul,  concerning  Ahamedj, 
story  of  the  massacre  of  a ship’s  crew  of  Christians,  and  about  the  harbour  1 ha 
seen— The  manner  of  trade  between  the  Spanish  fishermen  and  the  wild  Arabs- 
A sketcli  of  the  peculiar  perils  of  the  coast  we  were  wrecked  upon— Reasons  fc 
believing  that  many  crews,  supposed  to  have  been  foundered  atf  sea,  had  perishe1' 
on  that  coast— My  last  interview  with  Aharaed. 

As  soon  as  we  had  left  the  Battery,  we  went  to  the  two  Courts 
who  provided  a room  to  lodge  our  men  in;  and  our  next  attentio 
was  about  our  ransom.  William,  the  younger  of  the  two  brothers! 
had  been  in  this  country  for  many  years,  and  was  well  acquainte 
with  the  language,  and  with  the  nature  and  dispositions  of  the  Arabs 
and  with  him  we  had  a long  conference  relative  to  the  amount  of  th 
sum  that  should  be  paid  for  our  ransom.  For  my  own  part,  I \vaj 
placed  in  a very  disagreeable  situation;  for  in  regard  to  that  sub1 
ject,  I seemed  to  have  two  wishes  diametrically  opposite  to  eac!! 
other.  On  the  one  hand,  1 was  desirous  that  a liberal  sum  migl 
be  given  to  these  Arabs,  to  induce  them  to  bring  the  rest  of  my  fel 
low-sufferers  up  for  ransom ; while,  on  the  other  hand,  I felt  it  to  b: 
my  duty  to  my  government  not  to  put  it  to  any  unreasonable  ex 
pense  in  this  case.  William  Court  gave  me  his  opinion,  which  wa 
the  result  of  long  experience,  and  perfectly  agreed  with  that  of  th 
consul.  “ Giving  a great  ransom,”  said  he,  “ for  Christian  cap" 
lives,  and  showing  a strong  desire  to  relieve  them,  is  what  has  a! 
ways  hitherto  had  a direct  tendency  to  retard  their  deliverance ; fo 
when  the  Arabs  find  that  a great  price  is  given  for  Christian  slave; 
their  avarice  is  excited,  and  their  rich  men  buy  them  up  tospeculat 
upon.  There  have  been  instances,”  continued  he,  “ when,  it  bein 


paddock’s  narrative.. 


165 


' known  that  a large  sum  was  offered  for  a certain  number  of  Chris- 
tians, they  were  bought  up  for  the  purpose  of  speculation,  and  the 
t purchaser  having  come  up  here,  and  then  getting  a better  offer, 
returned  home,  sold  them  to  other  speculators,  who  kept  them  for  a 
still  greater  price,  and  detained  them  so  long  that  some  of  them  died 
of  hard  usage  and  of  grief.”  On  the  other  hand,  he  said,  if  their 
ransom  were  very  small,  the  inducement  to  bring  them  would  be 
alike  small ; and  he  therefore  thought  it  best  to  pursue  a middle 
course. 

In  the  dilemma  I was  in,  prudence  dictated  that  I should  be  cir- 
cumspect in  the  part  I had  to  act.  The  Arabs  were  constantly  at 
our  heels  for  their  pay,  and  were  full  of  promises  to  bring  on  our 
other  men.  There  was  here  no  law  in  their  favour,  and  they  had  no 
remedy  for  wrong ; despising  every  body,  and  by  every  body  de- 
spised, the  poor  Ishmaelites  were  to  be  pitied  in  their  present  situa- 
tion, if  ever. 

The  consul  and  myself  left  them,  and  went  to  dine  with  a very 
i respectable  English  merchant  by  the  name  of  Jackson,  whose  first 
i name  I have  forgotten.  The  consul  before  this  had  introduced  me  to 
him,  and  he  treated  me  now  with  great  civility  and  kindness.  It 
was  either  at  his  house,  or  on  our  way  to  it,  that  the  consul  remarked 
to  me,  that  in  his  opinion,  the  most  ready  and  effectual  way  for  redeem- 

Iing  Christian  captives  was  to  fix  their  ransom  at  a stated  price,  with- 
out making  any  distinction  in  that  respect  between  a captain  and  his 
cook  or  cabin-boy.  He  added,  “ If  this  were  done,  and  the  Arabs 
along  their  whole  coast  were  given  to  know  it,  it  would  prevent  their 
speculating  upon  their  captives,  and  of  course  their  detaining  them  : 
that  if  such  a rule  were  made,  an  Arab  having  a Christian  in  his 
possession,  and  knowing  the  exact  sum  given  here  for  such  a cap- 
tive, would  without  delay  bring  him  up,  as  no  rich  man  among  them 
would  have  any  interest  in  causing  a delay  from  views  of  specula- 
tion.” As  I had  at  the  time  no  opposite  ’opinion  of  my  own  [to  ad- 
vance, I only  asked  him  how  it  could  be  possible  to  make  the  Arabs 
inhabiting  the  desert  know  that  they  might  be  sure  of  receiving  any 
ransom  here  for  their  Christian  slaves  ? I then  observed  to  him 
that  it  was  the  general  opinion  of  those  in  whose  hands  I had  been, 
that  the  consul  here  had  done  with  buying  his  brethren.  “ They 
are  lying  dogs,”  he  replied,  “ they  know  better,  for  no  one  ever  went 
» away  without  receiving  his  pay.” 

When  we  returned  home,  after  dinner  I found  Ahamed  waiting  for 
me.  He  had  become  very  much  alarmed,  for  he  had  just  found  out 
that  we  were  not  Englishmen,  but  belonging  to  another  country.  I 
suspect  that  Jack  had  told  him  of  this,  with  a view  to  alarm  him,  and 
create  dissatisfaction  in  his  mind.  I confessed  the  fact,  but  through 
the  same  boy  Jack  I explained  to  him,  that  though  we  were  inhabitants 
of  another  country,  yet  we  were  the  same  kind  of  people  with  the 
English.  “ You  may  see  yourself,”  I told  him,  “ that  we  speak 

(the  same  language,  and  that  my  friends  here,  as  I told  you  before 
in  the  desert,  take  the  same  care  of  me  as  if  I were  an  Englishman, 
and  tazher  Courts  you  may  depend  will  pay  you  off  to-morrow.” 


166 


paddock’s  narrative. 


But  notwithstanding  what  I had  said,  he  went  away  with  the  appear- 
ance of  some  jealousy  that  a trick  was  to  be  played  upon  him. 

The  next  morning  I arose  very  early,  and  after  walking  upon  the 
terrace  for  an  hour,  I took  a walk  to  the  market-place,  where  I luck- 
ily met  with  a Mogadofe  Jew,  whom  I had  seen  at  my  friend  Jack- 
son’s. He  spoke  English  perfectly  well ; — in  fact,  he  had  been  part- 
ly educated  in  England  ; the  Arabic  he  was  master  of,  of  course. 
While  I was  talking  with  him,  Ahained  hove  in  sight,  walking  to- 
wards us  quick.  I told  the  Jew  that  the  Arab  coming  was  Ahamed, 
and  begged  of  him  to  act  as  my  interpreter  with  him,  which  he  readily 
consented  to  do.  We  sat  down  under  a wall,  and  there  talked  to- 
gether an  hour,  and,  during  that  time,  1 fully  explained  to  Ahamed 
the  particulars  as  to  what  country  I belonged,  how  it  became  seph>! 
rated  from  the  government  of  England,  the  harmony  subsisting  be- 
tween the  two  countries,  and  the  cause  of  my  telling  him  that  1 was 
English.  With  respect  to  this  last  particular,  I observed,  that  had  I 
at  that  time  told  him  the  truth,  I should  not  have  been  able  to  con-| 
vince  him,  through  the  boys,  that  we  should  stand  as  good  a chance 
to  be  ransomed  as  if  we  really  were  English,  and  besides,  that  I had! 
my  doubts,  even  if  we  had  a consul  here,  of  his  having  knowledge  o( 
things  of  this  nature,  as,  probably,  ours  was  the  first  American  ship 
ever  stranded  on  this  coast.  Ahamed  heard  me  with  the  greatest  ! 
attention,  so  that  it  seemed  as  if  every  word  was  imprinting  itself  in 
his  mind  ; and  after  I had  done,  he  replied,  “ You  did  very  right  in 
telling  me  that  story,  for  if  you  had  said  that  you  were  not  English,  but) 
from  some  other  country,  we  should  have  had  nothing  to  do  with 
you,  as  not  expecting  that  any  body  would  pay  your  ransom,  and, 
in  that  case,  the  mountaineers  would  have  carried  you  back  to  their 
homes,  and  there  you  must  have  died  he  added,  “ what  you  have 
now  told  me,  accounts  for  tasher  Courts’  employing  themselves  in| 
this  matter,  and  I hope  they  will  do  justice  to  us.”  Upon  my  tell-) 
ing  him  that  that  would  be  done,  he  asked  me  to  name  my  country  ! 
again,  which  I did  several  times,  but  he  could  not  pronounce  it  well, 
though  he  came  near  it,  calling  it  Ameck.  Finally,  he  asked  me  if  I 
had  not  forgot  my  promises  to  his  wives,  and  to  Salear  ? A Moor’s 
shop  being  directly  opposite,  I borrowed  a little  moneyof  the  Jew,  and: 
we  went  directly  to  it,  and  bought  every  little  article  that  I had  pro- 
mised, and  some  other  things  besides,  the  whole  costing,  I believe,! 
three  dollars.  Ahamed  was  remarkably  well  pleased  with  it,  and  j 
hastened  off,  as  I supposed,  to  his  comrades. 

After  this  interview  with  the  Arab,  I returned  home,  where  I found) 
the  consul  waiting  breakfast  for  me.  At  the  table  the  conversa- 
tion was  confined  to  our  ransom,  about  which  I felt  very  uncomfort- 
able, as  the  amount  of  it  might  affect  our  men  who  were  yet  behind. 
The  consul  recommended  it  to  me  to  leave  it  with  the  two  Courts  to 
act  according  to  their  own  judgments,  saying  they  were  both  judi- 
cious men,  and  that  William  understood  well  these  sort  of  people,  and  j 
their  language.  Agreeably  to  his  advice,  I kept  at  home,  and,  if  I 
recollect  aright,  the  consul  went  to  their  counting  house,  and  the 
Courts  paid  them  off,  with  such  an  amount  as  they  thought  proper. 


16? 


haddock’s  narrative. 

The  Arabs  craved  more  of  course.  As  soon  as  this  business  was 
settled,  Ahamed  came  to  my  room,  and  acknowledged  the  receipt  of 
all  that  I had  promised  him,  but  blamed  the  Courts  (whom  I thought 
blameless)  for  not  giving  a higher  ransom  for  us. 

My  mind  was  now  at  ease.  We  dined  with  the  French  consul, 
•who  was  very  agreeable,  and  treated  me  with  great  kindness.  As 
he  spoke  no  English,  the  conversation  at  the  table  was  all  in  French, 
which  the  guests  conversed  in,  all  except  myself.  To  be  excluded, 
as  I was,  from  joining  with  them,  seemed  to  give  more  uneasiness  to 
; them  than  it  really  did  to  me.  In  the  afternoon  I took  tea  with 
John  Foxcroft  and  wife.  I found  them  both  very  agreeable,  and  as 
their  house  was  adjoining  to  the  consul’s,  I often  took  the  liberty  of 
calling  to  sit  and  converse  with  them.  She  understood  the  Arabic, 
and,  from  opportunities  of  acquaintance  with  the  Moorish  women, 
and  particularly  with  the  governor’s  wives  at  St.  Cruez,  was  inform- 
ed as  to  their  manners,  and  many  of  their  customs,  and  had  a consi- 
derable knowledge  of  the  Alcoran,  which  she  had  learned  from  those 

10  women.  Among  all  the  Christians  in  Mogadore  that  came  within 
a my  acquaintance,  I was  well  received,  nor  was  I treated  with  disre- 
o spect  by  any  Moor,  or  Jew,  of  respectability. 

Being  one  day  at  my  friend  Jackson’s  table,  at  dinner,  the  consul 
sick  at  home  the  while,  and  none  there  but  we  tw'o,  a good  looking 
'it  Moor,  or  Jew,  (I  cannot  recollect  which,)  came  in,  having  business 

11  with  Jackson.  He  took  a seat  along  side  of  him,  and  for  some  time 
a they  bo,th  seemed  much  engaged  in  conversation,  in  the  Arabic. 
iii  IVhen  their  business  seemed  to  be  gone  through  with,  he  (the  stran- 
- ger)  looked  very  attentively  towards  me,  and  began  a conversation, 
ei  of  which,  I found,  from  a few7  words  I caught,  that  I was  the  subject, 

but  could  not  conjecture  as  to  the  scope  of  it.  They  both  laughed 
heartily,  and,  in  conclusion,  Jackson  turned  to  me,  and  asked  me  if 
1 had  in  my  ship  a keg  of  dollars  in  a barrel  of  beef?  I answered 
a yes  ; and  he  then  rehearsed  to  me  this  man’s  story,  as  follows  : “ As 
1 was  down  the  Arab  country  on  business,  (said  this  Moor,  or  Jew.) 
i[  1 heard  of  the  wreck  of  a ship,  and  I concluded  to  go  to  it,  thinking 
’.here  might  be  an  opening  for  a speculation.  When  I had  arrived, 

1 found  there  two  or  three  hundred  Arabs,  the  whole  of  those  Arabs 
[hat  first  took  possession  of  the  wreck  and  crew  having  gone  into  the 
interior  to  sell  their  plunder  and  slaves.  As  to  the  cargo,  they  in- 
formed me  there  was  no  goods,  but  that  they  found  in  the  bottom  of 
the  ship  an  earth , which  they  did  not  know  the  use  or  value  of,  but 
thought,  as  it  was  in  a ship,  it  must  be  very  valuable  somewhere, 
ind  they  wished  me  to  look  at  it.  I did  so,  and  1 found  that  they  had 
divided  it  into  little  heaps,  of  which  each  of  them  had  one  to  his 
share.  On  seeing  this,  I laughed  at  them  heartily,  and  told  them  it 
was  ballast,  and  of  no  more  value  than  the  sand  they  stood  on.  They 
were  mortified  in  the  extreme,  and  said  they  had  been  at  wrork  for 
several  days  in  getting  it  ashore,  and  that  in  small  quantities,  as  they 
had  to  dive  for  every  pound  of  it.  They  told  we  they  had  got  out 
most  of  the  salted  provisions,  and  were  then  finishing  that  job. 
About  ten  barrels  of  the  salted  provisions  were  then  lying  on  the 


163 


l'ADOOCIi’S  NARRATIVE. 


beach,  which  they  were  dividing,  allowing  one  barrel  to  a certain 
number  of  men.  When  the  barrels  were  opened  for  a subdivision, 
such  of  them  as  contained  pork  were  rejected  with  abhorrence,  and 
their  owners  were  greatly  mortified  ;*  but  every  barrel  of  beef  was 
divided  among  its  joint  owners  by  pieces.  One  of  them,  as  he  was 
taking  the  pieces  out  of  one  of  the  barrels,  came  to  a keg,  standing 
endwise,  which  was  so  heavy  that  he  could  not  lift  it  by  its  hoops. 
This  exciting  curiosity,  and  many  of  them,  by  turns,  trying  to  lift  it, 
in  the  confusion  the  barrel  was  overset,  and  the  keg  rolled  out  of  it. 
They  soon  got  a stone  and  stove  it  to  pieces,  and,  in  so  doing,  the 
dollars  flew  out,  the  noise  of  which  rallied  together  the  whole  gang, 
and  it  was  then  with  them  catch  who  can.  Each  contended  for  his 
share  so  ferociously,  and  their  scimitars  were  employed  with  such 
effect,  that  a great  number  were  severely  wounded,  and  some,  it  was[ 
thought.,  would  die  of  their  wounds.  There  being  some  barrels  yet 
unopened,  they  all,  as  one,  stove  them  to  pieces,  with  stones,  and 
searched  them  for  more  dollars,  and,  upon  their  finding  none,  a par- 
ty swam  to  the  ship,  and  searched  there  for  more  barrels,  but  in  vain, 
The  right  owners  of  the  barrel  containing  the  dollars  claimed  the 
whole  of  them  ; upon  which  a council  was  called,  and  the  chief  pre- 
sided ; their  pleas  were  able  on  both  sides,  but  as  1 came  off  soon,  1 
did  not  learn  the  result.” — Thus  ended  this  stranger’s  story,  as  gi 
ven  me  by  my  friend  Jackson,  and  thus  it  fared  with  my  hidden  trea 
sure. 

My  mind  had  now  become  tranquil,  and  I had  but  little  business  t( 
amuse  myself  with,  further  than  to  go  to  market  and  provide  food  foil 
my  men  ; and  this  I did  daily,  drawing  the  money  for  that  purpose 
from  the  Courts,  and  I very  soon  learned  how  to  buy  my  meat 
The  regulations  of  the  police  with  respect  to  the  market  there  is  wor 
thy  of  notice.  Every  morning  an  officer  goes  to  each  stall,  anc 
pastes  up  a piece  of  paper,  on  which  he  wrrites  what  the  price  o 
beef  is  to  be  for  that  day.  So  severe  is  the  regulation  of  the  po 
lice,  that  no  seller  dares  to  exceed  that  fixed  price,  though  ever} 
seller  is  at  liberty  to  sell  as  much  below  it  as  he  pleases ; thus  £ 
deal  of  trouble  is  saved,  and  no  imposition  can  be  practised  on  the 
buyer,  as  the  meat  is  rarely  sold  below  the  fixed  price.  As  to  thr 
price  of  the  meat,  it  is  governed  by  the  price  of  the  cattle,  which 
were  constantly  for  sale  without  the  gates,  and  were  always  cheap 

The  cattle,  at  this  time,  were  so  plenty  in  the  country,  and  the 
value  of  money  so  great,  that  almost  any  number  of  them  might  havt 
been  had,  at  a low  rate,  for  exportation,  if  suitable  vessels  had  beei 
there  to  take  them  away.  I understood  by  intelligent  people,  and  i 
was  confirmed  to  me  by  the  stories  of  the  Arabs,  that  the  cause  o 
the  uncommon  cheapness  of  cattle  was  this  : A great  many  Maho- 
metans had  died  the  last  year  of  the  plague,  and  their  cattle  har 
strolled  about  the  country  without  keepers,  so  that  the  herdmei 
were  obliged  to  keep  them  among  their  own  flocks  to  prevent  theiij 
destroying  their  grain,  and  if  no  jxerson  claimed  these  stray  cattk 

* The  Mahometans,  as  it  is  well  known,  will  not  pollute  their  hands  with  the  tour? 
of  swine’s  flesh. 


paddock’s  narrative. 


169 


within  a given  time,  they  were  driven  off  to  market.  The  exporta- 
tion duty  was  not  so  high  but  that  a great  voyage  might  have  been 
made  with  them.  The  exportation  of  horses  was  utterly  forbidden, 
and,  I believe,  of  camels  also  ; but  mules,  asses,  and  horned  cattle, 
tvere  permitted  to  be  exported,  after  paying  upon  them  a specific 
duty,  similar  to  that  on  the  other  products  of  the  country. 

The  imports  were  under  a peculiar  regulation,  which  was  very 
agreeable  to  the  mercantile  houses  ; it  was  this,  when  a ship  arriv- 
11  ed,  a report  was  made  of  her  cargo  ; there  were  no  custom-house 
forms,  no  bonds  entered  into  for  the  emperor’s  dues,  but  the  goods 
'?  were  all  landed,  and  put  into  his  stores.  One  tenth  was  then  taken 
b } the  emperor’s  officers,  and  the  remainder  was  given  up  to  the 
merchant,  who,  at  pleasure,  took  it  away,  excepting,  however,  any 
1 articles  that  were  not  made  use  of  by  the  musselmen,  such  as  ardent 
spirits,  wine,  and  so  forth,  which  were  subject  to  a particular  duty, 
:i  which  being  paid,  those  articles,  like  the  rest,  were  permitted  to  be 
taken  away  from  the  stores  of  his  majesty.  The  merchants  in  Mo- 
lt jgadore  had  but  very  little  trouble  in  making  this  division  between 
The  government  and  themselves;  for  their  correspondents,  if  only 
nade  acquainted  with  this  regulation,  would,  in  shipping  goods, 

: lave  them  packed  in  tenths  ; for  instance,  ten  pieces  in  every  pack- 
ige  of  cloths,  and  the  other  things  in  the  like  way,  so  that  when  the 
f)  ;oods  were  all  stored,  it  would  require  but  little  time  or  trouble  to 
livide  them  according  to  law.  Smuggling,  of  any  kind,  was  very 
•are  ; the  guards  at  the  city  gate  were  so  diligent,  that  any  clandes- 
ine  management  would  be  readily  detected, 
ffl  Duties  on  exports  were  paid  at  the  city  gate  in  manner  following  ; 
i merchant  intending  to  ship  a quantity  of  goods,  for  instance,  goat 
kins,  he  informs  the  governor  of  that  intention,  and  requests  him  to 
>e  at  the  gate  on  a given  time  of  the  following  day.  The  governor  at- 
ends  in  person,  and  with  him  a scribe,  and  a servant  following,  with 
l mat  for  him  to  sit  on.  He  looks  at  the  bundles,  and  counts  them, 
ind  points  out  a few,  which  he  orders  to  be  opened  and  counted, 
.nd,  on  being  satisfied  as  to  the  number  of  skins  in  each,  the  scribe 
:alculates  the  sum  belonging  to  him  as  government  dues  ; and,  on  his 
lemand,  it  is  counted  out  to  him  by  the  merchant,  who  previously 
mew  the  exact  amount ; the  scribe  counts  it  over  after  him,  and  in- 
orms  the  governor  if  it  be  correct,  and  he  then  gives  permission  to 
hip  the  article,  or  articles,  and  returns  with  the  scribe  and  his  ser- 
ant.  I frequently  thought  while  1 was  in  Mogadore,  that  of  all  the 
torts  I had  ever  been  in,  none  was  half  equal  to  this  for  doing  busi- 
less  relating  to  imports  and  exports,  with  ease  and  correctness. 

I mentioned  a little  back  that  the  exportation  of  horses  was  pro- 
ibited ; but  notwithstanding  this  general  prohibition,  a certain 
English  gentleman  had  influence  enough  with  one  of  the  governors 
if  the  emperor,  to  obtain  of  him  a permit  to  send  a beautiful  pair  of 
> ;reys  to  his  owe  sovereign,  or  prince,  which  circumstance,  in  all 
irobability,  never  came  to  the  emperor’s  knowledge.  When  these 
ne  horses  were  landed  in  Europe,  so  elegant  were  they,  that  the 
’ ;um  of  a thousand  guineas  was  offered,  but  whether  for  each,  or  for 

22 


170  paddock’s  narrative, 

the  pair,  1 do  not  recollect.  This  story  I had  from  the  gentleman 
himself  who  sent  them.  The  Mahometans  consider  the  horse  as  an 
animal  too  good  for  any  but  themselves  to  ride.  Consequently,  by 
their  law,  neither  a Christian  nor  a Jew  is  permitted  to  ride  one  ; 
but  policy  has  dictated  to  the  reigning  monarchs  to  indulge  the| 
Christians  with  that  privilege.  They  are  permitted  not  only  to  ride 
on  horseback,  but  to  keep  their  shoes  on  while  they  are  passing  over 
what  they  call  Holy  Ground  ; whereas  the  Jews  are  obliged  to  live 
up  to  that  law'  in  every  particular ; and  therefore,  for  the  sake  oi 
convenience,  they  have  their  slippers  without  quarters.  It  is  re- 
markable to  see  w'ith  what  easiness  and  dispatch  the  Jews  can  be 
shod  and  unshod.  As  soon  as  they  come  to  the  place  that  they  are  to 
pass  over  barefoot,  thej',  from  long  habit,  kick  oft’  their  slippers  so  near!; 
together,  that  they  stoop,  and  take  them  up  with  one  hand,  and  no’ 
sooner  are  they  past  the  place,  than  they  drop  them  on  the  ground., 
and  put  their  feet  into  them,  without  appearing  to  make  any  stop  01 
delay. 

The  Moors  are  very  fond  of  making  proselytes  to  their  religion, 
but  it  is  seldom  that  a Jew  ever  embraces  their  faith,  and  as  seldom 
do  Christians,  except  those  Spanish  convicts  who  had  been  seni 
from  Spain,  and  exiled  to  Ceuta  ; these,  to  gain  their  liberty,  some- 
times make  their  escape  into  the  emperor’s  territory,  and  there  tun: 
Mahometans,  to  avoid  being  taken  back;  and  to  gain  a livelihooc 
they  generally  enlist  into  the  Moorish  army,  and  there  spend  theii 
days.  As  fond  as  the  Moors  are  of  converting  Christians  to  theii 
faith,  they  never  after  put  much  confidence  in  them,  who,  like  har-i 
lots,  are  cherished  but  not  respected. 

A very  lamentable  instance  of  apostacy  took  place  at  Mogadon 
while  I was  there,  and  with  one  of  the  Martin  Hall’s  boys.  The 
boy  Jack,  of  whom  I have  so  frequently  made  mention,  was  often 
missing  from  the  consul’s  house,  and  whenever  some  one  was  sent 
in  search  of  him,  he  was  found  in  some  Moorish  house,  evident!), 
preferring  their  company.  The  consul  used  to  admonish  him,  and 
point  out  to  him  the  evil  tendency  of  keeping  such  company,  but  all, 
to  no  purpose.  At  last  he  was  missing  a whole  night,  and  in  the! 
morning  following  he  was  found  in  the  company  of  several  Moors, 
one  of  whom  claimed  him  as  his  adopted  son  ; and,  at  the  same  time. 
Jack  declared  that  he  had  embraced  the  Mahometan  faith,  that  he’ 
had  been  circumcised,  and  had  gone  through  their  other  ceremo- 
nies, and  he  claimed  protection  from  the  one  w'hom  he  called  hisj 
adopted  father.  This  information  was  carried  to  the  consul,  who! 
was  in  much  trouble  on  the  occasion.  One  way  only  was  left  to  re- 
claim or  recover  him  out  of  their  hands,  and  that  was  to  make  an  ap- 
plication to  the  governor  for  that  purpose,  and  accordingly  an  ap- 
plication was  made.  The  governor’s  reply  was,  “ You  shall  have 
all  the  indulgence  that  our  laws  permit,  which  is  this  : examine  the 
boy  in  my  presence,  from  day  to  day,  for  three  successive  days,  and 
if  you  can  within  that  time  persuade  him  to  return  to  his  former  re- 
ligion, you  may  receive  him  back ; otherwise,  as  he  has  voluntarily 
come  among  us,  and  gone  through  our  ceremonies,  we  are  in  duly 


paddock’s  narrative. 


171 


bound  to  retain  him.”  The  boy  being  sent  for,  and  examined  by 
the  consul,  who  did  it  in  the  Arabic  language,  he  declared  that  he 
loved  and  esteemed  his  adopted  father,  that  he  had  become  a Ma- 
hometan, and  would  never  change  from  it.  After  the  consul  had 
finished  his  part  of  the  examination,  the  governor  commenced,  by  ask- 
ing Jack  why  he  had  changed  his  faith?  His  reply  was,  he  did  it 
because  he  believed  the  condition  of  the  Mahometans  was  prefera- 
ble to  that  of  the  Christians  ; that  if  he  should  continue  in  the  reli- 
gion he  was  then  of,  he  should  see  God,  and  be  saved  ; whereas  the 
Christians  were  all  to  be  damned.  This  lesson  had,  beyond  doubt, 
been  given  him  by  his  adopted  father.  The  governor  then  asked 
him  if  he  knew  the  prayers,  and  the  meaning  of  them  ? He  declared 
that  he  did,  and  went  on  to  repeat  them.  Finally,  he  asked  him  if 
he  understood  the  prayer  of  Ramadam  ? He  said  he  did,  and  repeat- 
ed it,  without  missing  a word,  though  it  is  a very  long  one.  The 
governor  then  dismissed  him,  and  after  he  was  gone,  observed  to  the 
consul,  “ The  boy  is  safe.”  The  consul  continued  every  day  through- 
out the  aforementioned  term  of  three  days,  in  his  endeavours  to  re- 
claim the  boy,  but  at  last  was  obliged  to  let  him  go.  This  story  I 
had  from  consul  Gwyn’s  own  mouth  at  the  time.  When  the  three 
days  had  expired,  a great  rejoicing  took  place,  a grand  procession 
was  formed,  and  boy  Jack,  mounted  on  a horse,  moved  round  the 
city  in  great  style,  the  followers  singing  and  shouting  in  a merry 
mood,  gratified  with  the  grand  acquisition  they  had  made,  in  bring- 
ing a poor  ignorant  Christian  boy  into  the  saving  light  of  Mahomet- 
anism. I saw  Jack  frequently-  afterwards,  but  he  always  avoided 
me  when  it  was  in  his  power,  and  not  only  me,  but  all  those  belong- 
ing to  the  two  other  crews. 

When  speaking  of  the  market  at  Mogadore,  I omitted  some  things, 
which  I will  mention  here,  though  somewhat  Out  of  place.  The 
market  furnished  pompions,  onions,  melons,  grapes,  and  other  pro- 
ducts of  the  climate,  in  abundance,  and  cheap.  In  the  manner  of 
selling  them,  their  customs  were  singular,  or  were  so  at  least  when- 
ever I attended  the  market.  Their  loads  were  brought  on  asses, 
mules,  horses,  or  camels,  for  they  have  no  wheel  carriages  in  that 
country ; and  when  a load  came  in,  some  one  was  ready  to  buy  the 
whole  of  it,  or  the  whole  of  one  particular  article,  the  bystanders  re- 
maining silent  while  the  bargain  wms  making,  and  as  soon  as  that 
was  completed,  each  of  them  came  in  with  his  claim  for  a part,  and 
the  load,  or  the  particular  article,  wras  immediately  divided,  so  that 
each,  on  paying  his  quota,  had  his  share.  As  I was  coming  from 
the  butcher’s  one  morning,  I stopped  here,  and  having  one  of  my 
boys  with  me,  it  was  proposed  to  me  by  him,  that  he  should  attend 
the  fruit  sale.  I hardly  expected  that  a Christian  boy  would  have 
the  common  privilege  of  a share  in  the  division,  but  he  had  x4rabic 
enough  to  contend  for  his  right,  and  he  succeeded  ; our  part  was  a 
lot  of  grapes,  which  I thought  equally  good  as  I had  ever  eat, 
■either  in  the  Azores  or  the  Canary  islands.  The  bread  was  fur- 
p nished  us  by  the  bakers,  and  was  carried  to  the  lodgings  of  our  men 
r every  day  ; it  was  both  good  and  cheap.  The  country  was  over- 


272 


paddock’s  narrative. 


flowing  with  grain,  and  as  to  price,  there  was  very  little  difference 
between  wheat,  barley,  and  Indian  corn.  According  to  my  recollec-; 
tion,  from  an  estimate  of  their  measure,  a bushel  of  wheat  was  aboui 
40  cents,  or  two-fifths  of  a Spanish  dollar;  no  exportation  of  graii; 
was  permitted  at  the  time.  Bullocks  were  sold  from  three  to  five 
dollars  each,  which  rendered  our  living  very  cheap.  My  men,  thus 
comfortably  situated,  having  the  best  of  food,  and  decently  clad  with 
such  clothing  as  could  be  afforded  them,  were  all  recruiting  remark- 
ably fast,  nor  was  I far  behind  them  in  that  respect. 

An  opportunity  soon  offered  itself  for  my  asking  the  consul’s  opi-j 
nion  respecting  the  massacre  of  the  large  ship’s  company , which  I relat- 
ed to  him  just  as  Ahamed  had  related  it  to  me.  At  first  he  thought  that 
such  a deed  could  not  have  been  done  without  coming,  in  some  way’ 
or  other,  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Christians  in  Mogadore.  But ; 
when  I told  him  the  facts  that  had  actually  come  to  my  owr. 
knowledge,  such  as  parts  of  a wreck  of  a very  large  size,  the  stone  I 
huts,  the  casks,  and  at  last  the  human  hair,  and  bones,  which,  in  mj! 
own  opinion,  almost  led  to  a full  confirmation  of  the  fact,  his  first 
belief  was  staggered,  and  he  confessed  he  had  no  doubts  of  theii  | 
disposition  to  destroy  any  thing  that  should  come  in  their  way,  oi 
any  number  of  lives,  if  plunder  could  not  be  obtained  otherwise ; 
that  treachery  was  the  principal  trait  in  their  character,  and  that 
they  were  capable  of  uniting  in  any  thing,  though  ever  so  atrocious, 
in  annoying  all  mankind  but  those  of  their  own  nation. 

From  that  subject  we  passed  to  the  subject  of  the  harbour  which  I 
had  seen.  He  said  to  me,  that  an  intelligent  Moor  had  some  years 
before  told  him  of  that  harbour,  but  did  not  describe  it  exactly  as  1 
did  ; that  he  took  an  interest  in  the  story  told  him  by  the  Moor,  and 
had  made  every  inquiry  of  the  Arabs  as  to  such  a fine  harbour,  but 
having  never  got  any  confirmation  of  it,  he  had,  for  some  years 
past,  considered  the  story  as  incorrect,  or  otherwise  he  should  have 
made  it  known  to  his  government.  My  opinion,  I told  him,  clearly; 
was,  that  hundreds  of  ships  could  ride  at  anchor  in  this  harbour  ini 
safety,  defended  from  all  winds  except  from  the  north-west,  and 
that  as  the  entrance  was  so  much  narrower  than  the  body  of  the  har-i 
bour,  no  sea  through  that  could  injure  ships  very  much,  the  ground 
being  perfectly  dear. 

Our  next  object  was  to  ascertain  where  this  harbour  lay;  and, 
from  our  computation  of  the  distance  from  the  wreck  to  St.  Cruez, 
he  was  of  opinion  that  we  were  wrecked  on  a cape  beyond  Nun, 
near  Sabee,  and  that  this  harbour,  according  to  that  computation, 
was  about  thirty  miles  west  of  Cape  Nun.  If  that  was  the  fact, 
which,  in  frequently  pondering  on  the  subject  since,  I have  thought 
probable,  the  hunters’  object  in  carrying  us  back  from  the  sea  was 
to  avoid  Widxioon,  for  their  party  being  too  small  to  resist  the  evil-! 
disposed  and  fierce  people  inhabiting  there,  they  might  by  going  that 
way  have  lost  their  plunder,  or  at  least  a part  of  it  Again,  if  that 
should  have  been  the  place  of  our  shipwreck,  it  w’ould  account  for 
our  not  seeing  Nun  river,  and  would  also  account  for  our  seeing 


m 


paddock’s  narrative. 

such  numerous  tracks  of  men  and  beasts,  all  fronting  westward,  as 
being  a caravan  for  the  negro  country. 

I hope  the  time  is  not  far  distant,  when  some  Christian  power  will 
survey  that  coast,  which,  if  done  in  the  summer  season,  would  not 
be  difficult,  nor  attended  with  risk,  provided  there  were  two  or  three 
fast-sailing  small  vessels,  well  found,  with  good  cables  and  anchors. 
There  is  a great  number  of  anchoring  places  along  the  coast  at  the 
sea  board,  and  although  those  situations  are  very  rough,  yet  in  that 
respect  they  are  nothing  in  comparison  to  the  anchorage  on  the 
Grand  Bank.  And  should  it  so  happen  that  a cable  should  part,  or 
be  in  such  a condition  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  cut  it,  there  would 
be  no  risk  of  going  ashore,  for  during  the  time  that  1 was  on  that 
; coast,  a vessel  might  lie  within  two  or  three  points  of  lying  directly 
off  shore.  I learned  from  the  Arabs  that  it  frequently  happened 
that  the  Spanish  fishermen  anchored  near  in,  and  by  signs  from  them 
f came  ashore  and  traded  with  them,  giving  fish  for  skins  or  for  sheep’s 
i;  wool.  In  carrying  on  this  trade,  the  manner  they  used  for  their 
: own  secui'ity  Ahamed  once  related  to  me,  which  was  this  : — “ We 
a approached,”  he  said,  “ to  the  sea-side  with  our  goods,  and  left 
« one  man  with  them,  all  the  others  retiring  back  out  of  the  reach 
« of  gun-shot.  The  Spaniards  then  landed,  and  made  their  trade  with 

1 his  one  man,  he  keeping  himself  so  far  from  them  as  not  to  be  vvi th- 
is in  reach  of  their  grasp ; always  ready  for  a start,  and  having  full 

;onfidence  in  his  heels.”  Ahamed  acknowledged  that  this  trade  was 
;onducted  fairly  by  the  Spaniards.  According  to  his  representa- 
ffl  ion,  they  often  lay  at  anchor  within  a cable’s  length  of  the  shore, 
si  Happy  would  it  have  been  had  this  coast  been  well  surveyed  fifty 
is  rears  ago,  and  the  survey  published  to  the  wrorld  ; and  more  espe- 
bi  :ially,  had  there  been  a delineation  of  the  very  strong  currents,  it 
at  night  have  saved  a number  of  fine  ships,  and  a great  many  valuable 
ives.  While  I was  in  Mogadore,  I examined  a great  number  of 
ir!  )rotests,  made  by  the  master  or  other  officers  upon  oath,  relating  to 

2 hips  that  had  been  wrecked  on  that  coast,  and  every  one  of  them 
an  sttributed  their  loss  tothecurrents  thathadswept  them  away, and  most 
M if  them  to  a great  distance  from  the  place  where  they  had  calculat- 
'd their  ship  to  be.  On  the  contrary,  not  one  of  those  ships  was 
irotested,  as  lost  by  stress  of  weather.  Indeed  there  is  no  doubt  in 

in  ny  mind,  that  many  missing  ships  carried  by  the  currents  along  this 
us  nhospitable  coast,  have  been  wrecked  there,  and  never  more  heard 
> if.  A vessel  in  coming  there  seldom  meets  with  any  shoal  or  rocks 
o strike  on,  till  it  strikes  upon  one  of  the  many  square  and  perpen- 
licular  bluffs  against  which  the  sea  beats  with  such  violence  that  it 
lust  go  to  pieces  in  a very  few  minutes,  and  every  soul  inevitably 
lerish;  and  this  circumstance,  viewed  in  connexion  with  the  great 
lumber  of  pieces  of  wrecks  scattered  along  that  coast,  is  sufficient, 
think,  to  justify  the  opinion  I have  advanced. 

The  wild  Arabs  that  brought  us  up,  appeared  before  they  got 
heir  money  to  be  in  great  haste  to  return,  but  afterwards  they  show- 
d no  such  desire,  but  remained  ten  days  in  Mogadore,  where  they 
iad  all  their  dollars  coined,  or  exchanged  into  ounces.  During 


1!7'4  paddock’s  narrative: 

their  stay,  I thought  % good  policy  to  keep  on  the  best  terms  of 
friendship  with  tl  -m,  as  ! hoped  it  might  be  the  means  of  carrying 
relief  to  those  of  our  crew  that  were  left  behind.  They  were  so  parsi-  j! 
monious  that,  rather  than  buy  victuals,  they  went  to  our  men’s  lodg-  || 
ings  and  begged  bread  arid  meat,  which  they  gave  them.  This  gave 
me  many  opportunities  to  talk  with  them  about  their  cruelties,  and 
I endeavoured  to  convince  them  how  much  it  would  be  for  their  in- 
terest to  bring  the  men  up  immediately  whenever  a ship  was  wreck- 
ed on  their  coast,  telling  them  there  newer  could  be  any  danger  but 
that  they  would  be  well  paid.  They  listened  to  me,  and  promised 
that  they  would  thereafter  come  up  with  the  men,  without  loss  of 
time.  They  told  me  they  now  understood  that  it  was  bur  sultan  ? 
who  defrayed  the  expense,  and  that  he  must  be  mighty  rich,  where- 
as always  before  they  had  thought  that  the  money  was  paid  out  of 
the  consul’s  own  pocket,  and  therefore  that  he  could  not  have  ca"sh 
enough  to  ransom  a great  many.  Very  soon  after  I had  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  Courts,  ! got  them  to  take  my  bill  of  exchange  on  ji 
Rathbone,  Hughes,  and  Duncan,  merchants  in  Liverpool,  for  twen-  |! 
ty  pounds  sterling,  and  this  furnished  me  with  money  on  my  own 
account;  and  as  the  Arabs  were  excessively  fond  of  smoking,  and 
good  Virginia  tobacco  was  to  be  procured  for  half  a dollar  a pound, 

1 supplied  them  with  as  much  as  they  chose  to  smoke.  After  they 
had  made  all  their  purchases,  which  mostly  consisted  of  trinkets  for 
sale  among  the  Arabs,  and  some  tobacco,  they  called  on  me,  all 
prepared  to  start  off.  Upon  taking  leave,  1 gave  them  a pound  of 
tobacco,  and  as  much  money  as  would  furnish  them  with  meal  for 
several  days,  for  which  a small  sum  was  sufficient ; and  they  then 
took  their  leave,  full  of  promises  to  search  for  and  bring  up  every 
Christian  in  the  country.  After  this  I never  heard  of  Ahamed  and 
bis  companions. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Our  permit  from  the  emperor  to  return  home— A visit  from  a frigate  of  his  Britannic  I 
Majesty — The  consternation  occasioned  by  it  to  the  governor  ofMogadore— The  i 
crippled  condition  of  the  fortifications  of  that  town— The  way  and  manner  of  my  j 
obtaining  the  tabinet,  which  my  poor  black  man  Jack  had  packed  away  for  his  mis-  |i 
tress  to  wear—  Account  of  the  commerce— Garden  at  Mogadore,  and  of  the  com-  ':, 
pany  that  resorted  to  it— A description  of  the  terrace-roofs  there,  and  of  the  step- 
stones  for  their  mosques — Curious  trials  for  criminal  offences— singular  manner  of  i; 
the  city  watchmen— the  briskness  of  business,  occasioned  by  a permit  from  the  em- 1| 
peror  to  export  grain — Our  passage  for  Portugal  engaged— Pat’s  refusal  to  embark 
with  us — Our  voyage  to  Lisbon— Our  quarantine  there— The  kind  attentions,  and; 
unsuspecting  confidence  of  Buckley,  the  American  consul-general  at  Lisbon— The 
noble  generosity  of  captain  Norman,  of  Baltimore— -Our  voyage  from  Lisbon  to  that ; 
city,  and  arrival  there— Remarkable  supply  of  my  pecuniary  needs— My  journey ! 
to  the  seat  of  government,  and  interview  with  the  Secretary  of  State — My  gladsome  f 
return  to  my  wife,  and  to  all  my  relations  and  friends  in  Hudson.  ji 

All  my  friends  in  Mogadore  were  fully  of  the  opinion  that  wc 
should  be  ordered  by  the  emperor  to  Fez.  It  had  formerly  been  the 


■Mrin 


paddock’s  narrative. 


175 


emperor’s  custom  to  have  Christians  that  were  ransomed  from  slave- 
ry  sent  to  him,  and  he  in  person  gave  them  their  liberty  to  return  to 
their  homes  ; but  in  the  latter  years  the  British  subjects  had  been 
permitted  to  return  home  by  his  order  in  writing.  As  the  piague 
had  not  wholly  subsided  in  many  parts  of  the  empire,  and  particu- 
: larly  in  the  aforementioned  quarter,  the  idea  of  marching  to  the  dis- 
: tance  of  three  hundred  miles,  through  a country  where  the  chances 
of  taking  that  fatal  disorder  would  be  nearly  two  to  one  against  us, 
was  too  much  to  bear,  especially  after  suffering  so  much  among  the 
Arabs.  Yet  this  thing  seemed  likely ; for  the  Courts  gave  it  as  their 
opinion,  that  as  we  were  the  first  Americans  cast  upon  that  coast, 
and  as  the-  emperor  had  never  seen  any  American,  he  would  wish  to 
f see  us  for  the  gratification  of  his  curiosity.  They  were  so  confident 
that  we  should  be  obliged  to  go,  and  so  careful  to  prepare  us  for  it, 
that  they  had  their  own  tent  put  in  order,  and  the  cooking  utensils  so 
arranged  as  to  be  ready  at  the  shortest  notice. 

Upon  this  emergency,  I immediately  wrote  to  our  consul-general, 
informing  him  of  my  alarm,  and  begging  of  him  that  in  case  we 
should  be  ordered  up,  I might  have  a place  in  the  corner  of  his  gar- 
den, so  as  to  be  as  much  out  of  danger  as  possible.  My  mind  was 
at  length  quieted  by  a letter  I received  from  the  consul-general. 
He  informed  me  that  he  had  applied  to  the  emperor  for  our  liberty 
to  go  home,  and  should  no  doubt  obtain  his  consent  very  soon,  as 
his  Majesty  seemed  well  disposed  towards  him ; but  if  he  could  not 
effect  it,  and  we  must  come  up,  he  wrould  take  good  care  of  us  ; add- 
ing, that  the  plague  had  not  left  Tangier,  and  that  for  several  months 
he  had  not  suffered  any  communication  from  without  into  his  enclosures, 
having  taken  up,  in  the  Mogadore  method,  whatever  his  needs  re- 
quired. 

About  this  time  there  arrived  a brig  bearing  the  American  flag. 
The  captain  came  to  the  consul’s  office  to  note  his  protest,  and  he 
informed  me  that  his  brig  belonged  to  Charleston,  South-Caroiina, 
iand  was  built  there,  and  that  he  was  a citizen  of  the  United  States; 
but  I soon  found  that  he  had  never  seen  Charleston,  and  that  his 
.ship  was  not  an  American  built  one.  His  papers  were  neatly  exe- 
‘cuted;  according  to  which  he  had  loaded  and  sailed  for  the  North 
of  Europe. 

I On  the  day  of  his  departure,  I received  a letter  from  our  consul- 

I general,  which  informed  me  that  the  emperor  had  given  to  me  and 
my  men  liberty  to  return  home  ; and  the  same  courier  brought  a let- 
ter from  the  emperor  to  the  governor,  to  permit  us  to  depart.  This 

J letter  came  to  the  hands  of  Alexander  and  William  Court,  who  were 
to  present  it  to  the  governor ; and  as  he  had  a great  share  of  ava- 
rice, accompanied  with  an  equal  share  of  cunning,  which  was  turned 
to  the  best  advantage  for  money-making,  the  Courts  were  on  their 
guard  with  him.  Previous  to  the  delivery  of  the  letter,  a scribe  wras 
sent  for,  who  copied  it;  after  which  William  Court  and  myself  wait- 
ed on  his  excellency,  who,  on  reading  the  letter,  said,  “ My  mas- 
ter’s .will  shall  be  done.”  He  then  dismissed  us.  I was  desirous  of 
having  the  letter  translated,  and  got  it  done.  1 think  the  Arabic  was 


i76  paddock’s  narrative. 

only  three  lines  and  a half  on  common  writing-paper,  but  its  Eng- 
lish translation  required  eighteen  or  nineteen  lines  on  the  same  kinc 
of  paper.  As  well  as  I can  recollect,  the  letter  was  written  in  ex- 
cellent language,  and  I am  sorry  that  I cannot  produce  it  here. 

I think  our  permission  to  depart  came  to  us  in  the  former  part  oi 
July,  and  the  unexpected  and  welcome  news  was  cheering  to  us  all, 
There  were  at  the  time  several  vessels  in  the  port,  but  no  one  that 
was  near  ready  to  sail.  The  morning  after  this,  I was  walking  orj 
the  terrace  pretty  early,  when  I saw  a brig  running  down  for  the  har- 
bour, with  English  colours  flying,  and  a large  ship  in  the  offing, 
standing  in  for  the  town,  which,  having  come  within  four  or  five 
miles,  laid  her  main-top-sail  aback,  and  hoisted  an  English  ensign, 
With  a good  glass  I plainly  discovered  her  to  be  a frigate.  I rar 
up  the  consul’s  flag,  in  answer  to  that  of  the  frigate,  and  went 
to  his  room  and  informed  him  of  the  circumstance.  By  the  time  he 
had  got  a look  at  her,  we  discovered  a boat  coming  from  her;  but 
our  breakfast  being  now  ready,  we  sat  down  at  the  table.  In  a few 
minutes  from  this,  a soldier  came  running  in,  half  out  of  breath, 
with  a message  from  the  governor,  who  wished  to  know  what  that 
frigate  wanted?  The  consul  sent  back  word,  that  it  was  impossible 
for  him  to  tell.  Before  the  soldier  had  time  to  get  back,  there  came 
another  soldier  to  ask  the  consul  to  come  to  the  Battery.  He  sent 
word  that  he  was  at  breakfast,  and  would  go  after  he  had  done, 
Before  the  second  messenger  had  got  to  the  street-door,  a third  one , 
came  and  ordered  him  to  come  without  delay.  By  this  third  mes- 
senger he  sent  word  that  he  would  go  when  it  suited  him,  and  told 
him  to  tell  the  governor  that  he  he  need  not  trouble  himself  anj 
more  about  it,  and  he  spoke  it  with  warmth.  The  fellow  begged! 
that  he  would  go,  telling  him  that  he  durst  not  return  with  such  an! 
answrer.  When  breakfast  was  over,  the  old  gentleman  and  the  sol-;! 
dier  went  off  together ; and  I went  to  the  top  of  the  house,  where  I! 
saw’  the  boat  was  near  the  landing  place,  which  lay  on  the  west  side 
of  the  town. 

Never  had  I seen  Mogadore  so  lively.  Hundreds  were  running 
towards  the  landing  place,  to  know  the  cause  of  this  visit,  which; 
was  a rare  instance  of  the  kind,  and  the  soldiers  in  the  battery  were 
all  engaged  at  their  cannon.  With  my  glass  I could  perceive  that 
a number  of  their  carriages  were  deficient  as  to  trucks,  which  defi-j 
ciency  was  exposed  to  my  view  by  their  pointing  their  guns  towards 
the  frigate.  Where  trucks  were  missing,  some  were  using  the  hand- 
spike, and  others  were  following  up  the  axletree  with  pieces  of  wood. 
The  consul  and  governor  were  at  the  landing  place  when  the  boat; 
came  in.  The  officer,  as  soon  as  he  had  come  within  the  length  of 
an  oar  of  the  landing-place,  asked  if  his  Britannic  Majesty’s  consul, 
was  there  ? The  consul  making  himself  known  to  him,  he  inquired 
as  to  the  plague,  and  as  to  his  own  health.  While  the  consul  was 
inquiring  for  news,  the  governor,  who  was  at  his  elbow,  was  in  great1 
fear,  and  very  troublesome,  saying,  every  now  and  then,  “ What  do 
they  want,  Mr.  Gwyn?  ask  him,  Mr.  Gwyn,  to  come  ashore.”  At 
last  he  invited  the  officer  to  land,  but  he  declined  it,  and  told  him] 


jPADDOCK53  NARRATIVE^ 


If? 


that  the  captain  of  the  frigate  had  ordered  1 .in  to  keep  at  the  diF* 
tance  of  an  oar’s  length  from  the  shore ; that  he  had  no  particular 
business  there ; that  he  was  on  the  Madeira  station,  and  somehow 
i (but  how  I do  not  remember)  they  had  been  di’iven  this  way ; and 
.that  having,  the  evening  before,  seen  the  back  land  above  the  town, 
the  captain  thought  he  would  call  and  see  if  there  was  any  news. 

This  the  consul  interpreted  to  the  governor,  who  insisted  that  he 
should  accept  of  a bullock,  which  the  officer  declined  of  course,  as 
he  could  not  have  done  it  without  coming  on  shore.  He  returned  to 
the  ship,  which  wore  round,  and  made  sail  to  the  northward.  This 
alarm  roused  his  excellency,  who  inspected  all  his  guns,  and  pro- 
1 mised  himself  to  be  thereafter  in  a better  state  of  defence.  It  was 
1 my  own  belief  at  the  time,  that  a 44  gun  frigate,  well  manned,  might 

- have  silenced  their  battery  in  less  than  an  hour,  in  the  Crippled  state 
dt  was  then  in.  The  situation  of  this  town  is  such,  that  a ship  of  the 

line  might  lay  within  a musket  shot  of  the  battery,  where  every  shot 
would  take  effect,  either  in  the  fort  or  the  town.  This  extraordinary 
visit  from  one  of  His  Britannic  Majesty’s  frigates,  was  the  topic  of 
general  conversation  among  most  of  the  inhabitants,  Christians,  Jews., 
and  Moors. 

11 1 About  noon  of  the  same  dav,  while  consul  Glwyn,  John  Foxcroft, 
and  myself,  were  sitting  together,  engaged  in  conversation,  a wild 
:e  Arab,  and  one  of  the  worst  looking  kind,  came  up  stairs,  with  a bun- 
dle, and  washed  to  know  if  the  consul  would  buy  some  handsome 
cloth  he  had.  In  unrolling  the  bundle,  out  rolled  the  two  gown  pat- 
::  terns  of  tabinet,  which  I had  bought  for  my  wife  in  Cork.  The 
111  thoughts  of  my  wife,  and  of  the  poor  black  man  who  had  taken 
the  patterns  in  his  pack,  saying,  “ Mistress  shall  have  these  yet ,” 

- 'ushed'  so  powerfully  on  my  mind,  and  excited  such  violent  emor 
>o  ions,  that  I could  not  refrain  from  turning  aside,  and  giving  vent 

o mv  anguish  by  a fow  of  tears.  This  was  not  discovered  at  the 
; ime,  by  the  two  gentlemen  that  were  with  me,  from  whose  conver- 
; .ation  it  appeared  that  they  were  not  acquainted  with  the  value  off 
i hose  pieces.  Foxcroft  proposed  to  buy  the  dark  coloured  piece- 
w fer  his  wife,  and  called  her  in  ; the  consul,  on  the  contrary,  took  a 
ancy  to  the  light  coloured  piece,  for  waistcoat  patterns.  While 
Ifexcroft’s  wife  was  making  her  observations  upon  the  tabinet,  I told 
jiier  the  price  of  it  in  Ireland,  and  that  I had  bought  there  the  two 
pieces  for  my  wife.  Upon  which,  the  two  gentlemen  immediately 
jffered  to  relinquish  the  bargain  to  me,  but  being  short  of  cash,  I de- 
fined it,  and  desired  them  to  proceed  in  the  purchase.  Each  took 
t piece,  and  paid  the  Arab  for  it,  according  to  my  recollection,  two 
lollars.  I did  not  expect  to  hear  or  see  any  more  of  it ; but  the 
fiext  morning,  in  taking  out  a clean  shirt  from  my  trunk,  I discover- 
b >d  that  some  person  had  been  to  it,  and,  upon  examination,  I found 
hat  the  light  coloured  gown  pattern  had  been  placed  at  the  bot- 
om  in  sucii  a manner  as  might  preyent  me  from  discovering  it.  It 
js  needless  to  mention  what  took  place  respecting  it,  afterwards  5 
‘uffice  it  to  repeat,  my  wife  got  her  gown,  and  wears  it  to  tins 

Bay. 

23 


178 


PADDOCK" S NARRATIVE. 


Having  now  full  permission  to  leave  the  country,  in  any  way  we 
might  please,  1 was  constantly  keeping  pace  with  the  loading  of  the 
vessels  in  that  port,  in  order  to  leave  it  in  the  first  that  should  sail. 
My  time  couldffiot  hang  very  heavily  upon  me,  as  I was  daily  in  good 
company.  Every  day  in  the  week,  except  one,  we  dined  out,  and 
sometimes  took  a cold  dinner  at  the  Commerce  Garden,  in  company 
with  a large  party  of  Christians  of  several  denominations.  This 
garden-spot  lay  a little  more  than  two  miles  from  the  town;  the  lit- 
de  fresh  water  river,  spoken  of  before,  running  through  or  by  it, 
It  was  formerly  presented  to  the  merchants  of  Mogadore,  by  one  o 
the  Emperors,  and  from  that  circumstance  it  acquired  its  name.  Be 
sides  vegetables,  there  were  in  it  some  trees  and  shrubs,  affording  a 
little  fruit.  The  dreariness  of  the  neighbouring  country,  made  this 
little  spot  delightful.  In  it  was  a house,  which  though  a small  one, 
was  built  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  a large  party,  who  com 
monly  met  about  noon  to  partake  of  a cold  dinner,  and  returnee 
home  towards  evening.  From  what  I had  discovered  among  m} 
friends,  these,  convivial  assemblies  were  productive  of  some  good 
The  English  and  French  were  then  at  war  together;  but  the  sub 
jects  of  both  these  great  nations  joined  in  those  parties  in  the  gar 
den,  and  at  other  convivial  meetings  ; and  during  the  nine  week; 
that  I frequented  this  mixed  company,  I never  heard  so  much  as  on< 
political  question  discussed.  Consul  Gwyn  told  me,  that  each  part\ 
showed  the  same  desire  to  avoid  in  company,  every  observation  01 
the  subject  of  home  concerns,  so  far  as  related  to  the  contentions  be 
tween  their  two  governments. 

As  I have  mentioned  something  about  their  terrace-roofs  at  Moga 
dore,  it  may  perhaps  be  agreeable  to  some  of  my  readers,  to  have  fj 
description  of  them,  which  I will  give,  as  given  me  by  the  consul. 
The  overhead  timbers  which  cover  the  upper  story  are  left  large,  tc 
bear  a great  weight,  and  are  covered  Over  with  strong  plank,  am 
that  covered  with  good  lime,  sand,  and  water,  so  mixed  together  as 
to  make  a strong  cement.  This  cement,  or  mortar,  is  laid  on  ir 
small  quantities,  and  a fine  gravel,  sifted  for  the  purpose,  is  laid  ovci 
it ; many  hands  being  employed,  with  wooden  pounders,  who  mode- 
rately pound  the  gravel  into  the  mortar.  As  soon  as  it  hardens  by 
drying,  another  coat  is  put  over  it,  followed  by  gravel  pounded  in, 
so  as  to  cement  the  whole  together ; and,  in  this  way  they  continue 
to  lay  on  coat  after  coat,  till  the  cement  is  of  a sufficient  thickness, 
which,  if  I remember  right,  is  about  six  inches.  It  is  then  left  tc 
dry,  and  when  quite  dry,  is  extremely  hard,  and  never  admits  watei 
through  it.  The  walls  of  the  houses  are  carried  to  the  height  ol 
three  or  four  feet  above  this  roof,  and  there  are  holes,  like  scupper- 
holes,  to  let  the  rain-water  pass  off  through  them.  Their  step-stones 
for  mosques  and  other  public  buildings  are  made  in  this  same  way; 
making  a box  for  a mould,  they  work  the  contents  in  this  manner, 
till  it  is  full,  and  when  sufficiently  dry,  (which  requires  along  time,)! 
the  step-stone  is  made  use  of.  These  stones  are  very  ornamen- 
tal, especially  alter  being  worn  long  enough  to  show  the  material? 
they  are  made  of. 


paddock’s  narrative. 


ITS 


A despotic  government  is  inadmissible  among  an  enlightened 
people,  and  is  justly  detested  ; yet  considerable  good  may  come  out 
of  it,  as  a set-off  against  much  greater  evil,  leaving  the  balance 
•against  it,  though  a heavy  one,  yet,  in  some  respects,  not  so  great 
as  freemen,  before  taking  the  whole  into  consideration,  generally 
imagine.  1 was  present  at  a few  criminal  causes,  tried  before  the 
governor,  at  the  Battery-gate;  they  were  against  Jews,  arraigned 
for  stealing.  No  counsel  was  admitted  in  behalf  of  the  criminal, 
but  as  many  as  pleased  appeared  against  him,  who,  not  under  oath, 
gave  their  testimony  in  presence  of  the  prisoner.  After  hearing  the 
evidence,  he  addressed  the  prisoner  in  this  manner,  “ You  hear 
what  is  charged  against  you, — are  you  guilty,  or  not  guilty  ?”  In 
the  cases  I have  mentioned,  they  pleaded  guilty,  and  begged  for 
mercy.  He  then  questioned  them  as  to  their  ability  to  pay  a fine, 
and  also  as  to  the  ability  of  their  friends.  After  which,  he  imposed 
such  a fine  as  he  thought  they  could  pay,  and  gave  them  but  a very 
short  time  for  making  their  appearance  with  the  money,  seldom 
longer  than  half  an  hour.  If  the  money  was  not  paid  in  the  time, 
corporal  punishment  was  commenced  with,  without  any  regular 
mode  of  inflicting  it.  Most  generally,  they  were  laid  prostrate,  with 
their  faces  downwards,  and  flogged  unmercifully;  die  governor  wit- 
nessing their  flagellation,  and,  between  spells,  asking  them  how  they 
;t  felt,  and  how  long  it  would  be  before  they  would  steal  again  ? The 
object  of  his  severity  no  doubt  was  to  make  them  the  more  willing 
to  pay  the  next  time  they  ivere  detected,  and  sometimes  they  paid 
him  their  fines  while  they  were  receiving  their  flagellation.  In  all 
3 cases  he  fined  them  very  high,  and  by  such  practices  he  had  become 
very  rich.  The  consul  told  me  there  was  no  doubt  but  he  had 
amassed  a great  fortune,  which  in  the  end,  would  do  him  no  good, 
for  as  soon  as  it  should  be  made  known  to  the  emperor,  where  his 
treasure  lay,  he  could  easity  find  a pretext  for  having  him  arrested, 
and  whether  for  a real  or  imaginary  fault,  it  made  no  difference,  if 
he  could  only  get  the  money. 

Among  a number  of  his  police  regulations,  this  that  I shall  now 
relate  was  a very  extraordinary  one.  Soon  after  my  arrival  in  Mo-' 
gadore,  the  consul  and  myself  were  going  home  late  at  night,  and  on 
turning  a very  short  corner,  we  were  near  treading  on  a man  who 
lay  on  his  side  in  the  street.  After  we  had  passed  by  him,  I re- 
marked that  in  places  where  men  were  given  to  intoxication,  this 
would  have  been  no  uncommon  sight,  but  that  among  Mahometans, 
who  never  touched  ardent  spirits,  it  was  strange  to  see  a man  lying 
■asleep  in  the  street.  To  this  he  replied,  “ You  are  very  much  mis- 
taken : that  is  a watchman,  and  he  is  awake,  with  his  ear  to  the 
ground,  to  hear  the  better;  in  that  position  he  is  obliged  to  lie,  ex- 
cept a noise  alarm  him;  to  sleep  on  his  watch  would  be  as  much  as 
ois  life  was  worth.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing,”  he  added,  a for  the 
[governor  to  take  the  rounds  of  the  town,  and  look  every  watchman 
in  the  face  ; and  by  means  of  this  precaution  there  is  neither  house- 
breaking  nor  riots  here.”  Whether  this  watch  is  perpetual  through - 
pout  the  year,  or  only  occasional,  I do  not  recollect.  Injustice  to  the 


ij&i/  I’ADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE* 

governor,  I must  express  it  as  my  opinion,  that  he  kept  his  town  the 
most  quiet  and  orderly  of  any  one  that  I had  ever  visited, — a clear  i 
instance  that  some  little  good  is  mingled  with  the  abundant  and  de- 
testable evil  of  despotism. 

Some  time  about  the  middle  of  July,  a Portuguese  schooner  ar- 
rived from  Lisbon,  chartered  by  the  house  of  the  Bulkleys  of  that 
place.  She  brought  some  goods  suitable  for  that  market,  in  order 
to  take  in  a return  cargo  of  the  products  of  this  country,  and  was  j 
consigned  to  the  house  of  William  and  Alexander  Court.  Those  two 
gentlemen  had  for  some  tipne  been  carrying  on  a treaty  with  the  empe- 
ror, to  furnish  him  with  a large  quantity  of  powder  at  a low  rate,  and 
to  receive  in  return  the  exclusive  privilege  of  exporting  wheat  to 
Europe,  This  arrangement  having  been  agreed  to  by  the  emperor, 
the  Courts  received  the  intelligence  of  its  ratification  just  as  this 
schooner  was  ready  to  receive  her  lading,  and  the  wheat  that  was  in 
the  town  was  immediately  purchased  up  by  them  at  a low  price.  A 
thing  of  such  magnitude  could  not  be  kept  secret  for  scarcely  a sin- 
gle day.  The  glad  tidings  of  the  free  exportation  of  grain  flew  like 
lightning  down  the  country,  even  to  the  wild  Arabs,  who  had  much 
jn  store,  J soon  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  vast  quantities  of  wheat  | 
brought  to  market,  which  all  came  on  camels,  the  whole  load  of 
each  being  contained  in  one  sack,  which  held,  as  near  as  I can  re- 
collect,  about  twelve  bushels.  One  morning,  soon  after  sun-rise,  I 
particularly  remember  seeing  a string  or  file  of  those  camels,  of  more 
than  half  a mile  in  length,  all  coming  into  the  gate  together,  each 
•with  its  load  of  wheat.  This  sight  was  truly  a grand  one.  The 
price  rose  to  a dollar  a bushel.  The  merchants  in  Mogadore  were 
dissatisfied  with  the  preference  given  to  this  one  house,  and  solicited 
the  emperor  that  this  privilege  should  be  common  with  them  all ; but 
how  it  terminated  J never  knew. 

The  schooner  was  loaded  with  despatch,  with  what  skins  had  been  I 
procured  for  her,  and  as  to  the  rest  was  filled  with  wheat.  She  be-  j 
ing  the  first  vessel  that  was  to  sail,  1 engaged  our  passage  to  Lisbon 
in  her.  When  she  was  nearly  ready  for  departure,  the  consul  sent 
for  Pat,  who  had  left  our  men?s  lodging-place  long  before,  and  was 
harboured  by  a countryman  of  his  in  town,  a cooper  by  trade  ; he 
sent  for  him  to  inform  him  that  he  was  to  go  with  us  to  Lisbon, 
Pat  refused  to  come,  and  sent  word  back  that  he  durst  not  go  with 
us,  for  that  the  mate  and  some  others  of  our  crew  had  threatened  to  j; 
kill  Ifim  whenever  they  had  him  in  their  power.  The  consul  de- 
sired me  to  speak  to  him,  and  tell  him  he  must  go.  I did  so ; but 
he  declared  that  he  was  afraid  of  his  life,  and  had  no  doubt  but  we 
would  destroy  him  before  he  could  reach  Europe.  My  promises  to 
the  pontrary  had  no  good  effect  upon  him,  and  he  remained  be- 
hind. 

When  the  time  had  come  for  us  to  leave  the  port,  (I  think  it  was 
the  27th  of  August,)  our  stores  having  been  all  previously  put  on 
board,  and  notice  being  sent  to  the  governor,  we,  with  all  our  bag- 
gage, accompanied  by  the  consul,  and  many  of  my  Mogadore  friends, 
went  to  the  beach.  The  governor  soon  made  his  appearance,  ap 


paddock’s  narrative. 


IS! 

tended  by  his  scribe  or  secretary,  and  his  servant  who  carried  his 
mat  for  him  to  sit  on.  I was  pointed  out  to  him  as  the  captain  of 
the  wrecked  ship,  together  with  my  crew,  and  he  was  told  that  we 
were  ready  (with  his  permission)  to  leave  the  place,  and  return  to 
our  homes.  His  reply  was,  “ Very  well,  you  may  depart,  but  not 
until  I shall  have  presented  you  with  a bullock  to  eat  upon  your  pas- 
sage.” As  I well  knew  the  custom  regarding  those  gifts,  and  had 
nearly  expended  my  little  cash  for  clothing  and  other  things,  I re- 
turned him  thanks  for  his  kindness,  but  told  him  our  boat  was  too 
small  to  carry  one  on  board.  But  he  insisting  that  I must  take  it,  it 
was  concluded  that  the  bullock  should  be  slaughtered  in  the  consul’s 
yard,  and  sent  oft’  in  the  next  boat.  His  servants  were  not  back- 
ward in  asking  for  such  small  presents  as  were  common  on  the  like 
occasions ; so  that  my  bullock  cost  me  about  double  the  money 
that  a good  one  might  have  been  bought  for  at  the  market. 

I took  leave  of  my  friends,  and  went  on  board  of  the  schooner. 
I did  then,  and  now  repeat  it,  return  my  most  cordial  thanks  to  all  and 
every  one  of  my  friends  and  benefactors  in  Mogadore  ; where  I left  a 
debt  due  from  my  government,  to  the  amount,  as  near  as  I can  recollect. 
of  about  seventeen  hundred  dollars,  for  the  ransom,  clothing,  and 
maintenance  of  eight  of  us,  including  Pat. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  the  bullock  was  brought  oft’, 
but  we  got  snug  and  ready  for  sea  before  night.  Our  captain,  who 
was  an  easy  slow  kind  of  man,  declined  going  to  sea  before  the  next 
morning,  although  the  wind  was  fair,  and  the  weather  fine.  His  ac- 
commodations wrere  small,  but  yet  they  were  very  comfortable,  nor 
was  he  wanting  in  disposition  to  render  our  situation  pleasant.  I 
could  not  persuade  him  to  go  to  sea  till  the  afternoon,  when  we  got 
! under  weigh  and  left  the  port,  going  round  to  the  west  of  Mogadore 
island.  All  the  way  through  the  channel,  I hove  the  lead  and  it  car- 
ried 27  fathoms.  At  dark  the  town  of  Mogadore  was  still  in  sin-fit 
at  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  the  high  sand  hills  above  the  town 
looked  as  dreary  as  can  be  described.  We  kept  on  a wind  layine; 
up,  from  north  to  north-north-west.  The  next  morning  no  land  was 
* in  sight  from  the  mast  head ; at  meridian  the  captain  observed  that 
we  were  twenty  miles  south  of  Mogadore,  when  by  his  dead  reckon- 
ng  we  were  thirty  miles  northward  of  it,  thus,  in  my  opinion,  mak- 
i.  ing  in  his  calculation  an  error  of  fifty  miles. 

The  sun  had  been  falling  some  time  before  he  ascertained  his  lati- 
I tude,  and  as  he  had  not  moved  the  index  of  his  quadrant,  I examin- 
I ed  his  table  of  declination,  and  took  oft'  his  altitude,  and  found  he 
' had  worked  right.  He  was  of  the  opinion  that  we  had  been  cur- 
(i  rented  south-westward,  a long  way  down  the  coast.  The  weather 
r being  fine  and  clear,  he  sent  a man  to  the  mast  head  to  look  out  for 
b land  on  the  Arab  coast.  I could  not  persuade  him  that  the  error  was 
| in  his  quadrant,  nor  would  he  let  me  examine  it ; saying  he  bought 
it  in  Lisbon,  from  a man  he  could  depend  on,  who  told  him  it  wa< 
I,  good.  In  the  afternoon  it  fell  calm,  but  in  the  evening  there  was  a 
I light  breeze  from  the  south-west,  w’hich  continued  all  the  night.  As 
■ well  as  I can  recollect  we  steered  north-north-east.  In  the  morning 


PADDOCK'S  NARRATIVE. 


n: l 


I told  him  his  quadrant  ought  to  be  examined  before  noon,  and  ad- 
justed ; but  he  would  not  listen  to  me.  Near  noon  I persuaded  him 
to  let  me  look  through  the  quadrant  as  the  sun  arose,  which  he  con- 
sented to  occasionally,  but  would  not  give  it  up  to  me.  At  meri- 
dian, by  his  latitude,  we  were  as  much  too  far  north  as  we  had  been 
,100  far  south  the  day  before,  by  his  dead  reckoning.  This  he  attri- 
buted to  a fair  wind,  by  saying  that  his  vessel  sailed  best  when  free 
from  the  wind.  I then  found  that  this  was  his  first  voyage  as  master 
of  a vessel,  and  that  he  had  but  very  little  knowledge  of  navigation, 
'hough  he  had  been  a long  time  at  sea,  in  the  Brazil  trade,  from 
Lisbon,  as  a petty  officer.  He  was  a sober,  saving  man,  and  had  | 
.acquired  money  enough  by  his  industry  to  buy  this  schooner,  and 
thought  he  could  navigate  her  well  enough.  While  I was  in  this 
conversation  with  him,  I discovered  that  many  of  the  screws  of  his  |i 
quadrant  were  loose,  and  that  the  instrument  must  be  corrected.  I 
was  not  long  in  putting  it  in  order,  and  I showed  him  where  the  fault  ) 
was.  T«he  next  day,  at  noon,  he  ’found  that  the  dead  reckoning  and 
meridian  latitude  agreed  so  well  together,  that  he  was  fully  convinc- 
ed of  his  ignorance  as  to  managing  a quadrant;  and  from  that  time 
he  called  on  me  frequently  to  take  an  observation  for  him,  and  al- 
ways advised  with  me  as  to  the  course  to  be  steered. 

The  vessel  was  a very  dull  sailer,  and  the  winds  being  moderate  j| 
and  light,  wc  had  been  at  sea  twenty  clays  when  we  made  the  rock 
of  Lisbon,  right  ahead,  with  a fair  wind.  From  his  being  acquaint- 
ed with  the  coast  and  harbour  he  refused  to  take  a pilot,  and  an- 
chored against  the  castle  in  Belem,  a few  miles  below  the  city,  on 
t he  next  morning,  which  I believe  was  the  17th  of  August.  Inline- 
diately  after  our  coming  to  anchor,  the  pratick  boat  came  along 
side,  and,  on  finding -that  we  were  from  the  coast  of  Barbary,  left  us, 
and  returned  to  shore.  Very  soon  they  returned  again,  and  asked  jj 
many  questions,  particularly  whether  we  were  all  well  ? if  the  captain 
had  a bill  of  health  ? if-the  plague  had  subsided  on  the  coast  ? Then 
calling  all  of  us  to  the  vessel’s  side,  they  counted  us.  After  this, 
they  reached  the  end  of  a pole  on  board,  to  which  our  captain  fixed 
his  bill  of  health,  and  letters,  which  were  carefully  hauled  into  the 
boat  without  touching  them  with  their  hands,  and  were  immersed  in 
vinegar.  They  left  orders  for  no  person  to  leave  the  vessel  on  any  I 
occasion,  and  then  returned  again  to  shore.  After  they  were  gone, 
the  captain  said  he  was  very  fearful  we  should  be  obliged  to  lie 
there  the  full  time  of  quarantine,  which  was  forty  days,  but  should 
soon  know  our  fate.  The  boat  soon  returned  again,  with  four  cus- 
tom-house officers,  to  be  left  on  board  as  a guard,  and  we  were  in- 
formed that  we  were  to  lie  forty  days.  To  look  forty  days  ahead, 
and  think  of  being  confined  all  that  time  in  this  small  bark,  was  not  ' 
very  agreeable  to  us  ; we  bad,  however,  enough  to  eat,  and  a good- 
natured  captain,  who  did  every  thing  in  his  power  to  make  our  time 
as  little  tedious  as  might  be.  The  utmost  of  our  limits  was  to  go, 
when  any  thing  was  wanting,  to  the  beach,  which  was  near,  and 
where  constantly  men  were  placed  as  a watch,  and  to  relieve  out' 


paddock’s  narrative? 


183 

Our  stores  from  Mogadore  were  nearly  expended,  and  I wrote  the 
next  day  to  our  consul-general,  Buddy,  at  Lisbon,  informing  him 
of  our  situation.  He  sent  me  an  immediate  answer,  written  in  the 
most  friendly  language,  assuring  me  that  we  should  be  made  as  com- 
fortable as  our  situation  would  admit ; that  he  had  dispatched  a let- 
ter to  the  vice-consui,  Fortuventura,  at  Belem,  to  furnish  us  with 
every  necessary  of  life.  This  pleasing  letter  from  an  utter  stran- 
ger, I regret  it  is  out  of  my  power  to  insert  here.  On  the  day  of  its 
arrival  the  vice-consul  came  to  the  beach,  and  made  a signal  for  us 
to  land.  I went  in  the  boat,  keeping  a few  paces  to  leeward  of  him. 
and  he  gave  me  to  understand  that  he  was  ordered  to  do  as  our  wor- 
thy consul  had  written  to  me.  Returning  to  the  schooner,  1 made 
an  arrangement  with  the  captain  as  to  what  supplies  I should  re- 
ceive, in  order  to  make  out  my  equal  proportion  in  our  common  fare, 
as  myself  and  the  two  mates  messed  with  him  and  his  son  ; a suita- 
ble allowance  being  made  for  my  men,  who  messed  by  themselves. 
After  this  "arrangement  was  settled,  I again  went  ashore,  and  gave 
directions  to  the  vice-consul  as  to  what  provisions  he  should  furnish. 
He  did  not  do  exactly  as  he  had  been  ordered,  but  we  fared,  never- 
theless, very  well.  This  confinement  was  rather  tedious,  and  the 
more,  so  as  we  had  not  a single  English  book  to  reach  I there  made 
several  notes,  which  might  have  been  of  great  service  to  me  now, 
but  they,  -with  my  other  papers  and  letters,,  are  lost,  or  mislaid. 

On  the  27th  of  September,  in  the  morning,  according  , to  the  best 
of  my  recollection,  we  were  examined  by  the  health  officer,  and  per- 
mitted to  land.  After  we  had  gone  through  with  some  little  ceremo- 
ny at  an  office  at  Belim,  we  were  once  more  at  our  liberty  on  . a 
Christian  shore.  A captain  Hand,  of  Charleston,  was  at  Belim  with 
his  boat,  who  gave  me  a passage  to  Lisbon,  where  we  arrived  about 
eleven  o’clock.  I immediately  waited  on  our  consul  at  his  office, 
and  introduced  myself  to  him,  who  received  me  in  a very  courteous 
manner,  laid  by  his  own  business,  and  attended  to  mine.  To  him 
I briefly  related  my  misfortunes,  and  the  situation  I was  then  in,  and 
he  having  previously  had  a part  of  my  tale,  in  and  by  the  letters 
which  I had  written  to  him  while  I was  at  Bclerp.  ! had  no  need  to 
tell  him  that  I was  short  of  money.  He  politely  questioned  me  as 
to  my  pecuniary  situation,  and  after  he  had  become  fully  acquainted 
with  it,  he  directed  me  to  call  on  a Madame  Israel,  who  kept  a 
boarding  house,  and  tell  her  to  give  me  the  best  accommodations, 
and  he  would  settle  it  with  her.  When  I was  about  starting  for  mv 
new  lodgings,  he  asked  me  to  stay  and  dine  with  him.  After  din- 
ner, I requested  him  to  put  my  men  on  board  American  vessels  for 
home,  which  he  told  me  he  intended  to  do  that  day  to  save  expense 
to  our  government,  and  that  I might  take  my  own  course,  and  as  to 
whatever  money  I might  want  on  my  own  account,  he  would  advance 
it  to  me,  for  my  bill  on  whomsoever  I should  choose  to  draw.  This 
confidence  in  a stranger,  this  unsolicited  favour,  was  certainly  far 
beyond  what  I could  have  expected,  though  it  was  what  I ardently 
wished  for,  as  the  clothing  which  I then  had  was  very  thin. 

He  returned  to  his  business,  and  sent  a servant  to  show  me  t<?  my 


184 


paddock’*  narrative* 

lodgings,  where  1 hud  scarcely  got  seated,  when  a gentleman  accost  - 
ed  me  to  know  who  I was.  On  my  telling  him  of  my  situation, 
which  was  done  with  great  brevity,  he  asked  me  if  I wished  to  go 
home  ? and  upon  my  answering  that  I did,  he  said  to  me,  “ 1 have  a 
good  ship  which  will  be  ready  to  sail  for  Baltimore  in  two  days;  in 
her  you  are  welcome  to  a passage.”  His  kind  offer  I readily  ac- 
cepted, and  told  him  1 would  call  on  our  consul,  who  had  offered  me 
money,  and  to  furnish  my  stores.  His  reply  was,  “ My  good  sir,  I 
did  not  offer  you  a half-way  passage,  my  stores  are  all  laid  in,  of 
which  you  are  to  partake  with  me ; go  on  board  as  soon  as  you 
please.”  1 could  scarcely  find  words  to  reply  to  this  generous  man. 
We  had  never  seen  or  heard  of  each  other  before.  lie  soon  went 
away  about  his  own  business,  when  several  American  capitains  present 
observed,  That  is  characteristic  of  the  man . His  name  was  Norman, 
and  his  ship  was  the  Perseverance,  of  Baltimore  ; she  was  a fine 
coppered  ship,  of  340  tons.  I had  two  little  boys  under  my  care, 
and  was  very  desirous  to  keep  them  with  me,  but  I could  not  have  the 
face,  after  captain  Norman’s  kind  offer,  to  ask  him  to  take  them 
also.  I was  in  search  after  some  master  of  a vessel  to  take  them 
home,  when  captain  Norman,  on  discovering  it,  sent  his  boat,  and 
took  them  in  his  ship. 

As  my  time  was  now  likely  to  be  very  short  in  Lisbon,  I called 
on  our  worthy  consul,  who  advanced  me  on  my  own  account  as  much 
money  as  I required.  After  counting  it,  he  asked  me  with  whose 
name  he  should  fill  in  the  bill  of  exchange  ? I mentioned  to  him 
Isaac  Hicks,  merchant,  of  Ncw-Yorb,  the  ship’s  agent  there,  or 
llathbone,  Hughes,  and  Duncan,  of  Liverpool;  and,  it  being  the 
most  convenient  for  him,  he  took  the  former.  I signed  the  bill,  nor 
did  he  ask  me  a single  question  as  to  my  right  of  drawing  upon 
those  houses. 

What  abundant  cause  of  gratitude  had  I,  and  still  have,  both  to 
God  and  man  ! Ever  after  the  time  of  my  leaving  the  wild  Arabs, 
remarkable  providential  favours  seemed  to  attend  me  at  every  step. 
While  I was  a stranger  in  a strange  land,  and  utterly  indigent,  I 
there,  without  the  least  difficulty,  and  in  most  cases  without  my  own 
seeking,  met  with  benefactors  who  provided  me  with  whatever  I 
really  needed,  and  soothed  my  affliction  by  every  means  in  their 
power. 

After  receiving  this  money,  my  first  care  was  to  present  my  aged 
and  worthy  friend,  consul  Gwyn,  with  some  little  necessaries  which  his 
circumstances  seemed  to  require,  and  as  a token  of  my  remembrance, 
and  of  my  sincere  and  high  esteem.  Those  things  I packed  up  in 
a box,  and  left  them  with  our  consul  at  Lisbon,  w'ho  shipped  them 
to  Mogadore,  where  they  safely  arrived,  as  appeared  by  a letter 
from  consul  Gwyn,  written  to  me  some  time  afterwards. 

I now  furnished  myself  with  some  thick  clothes,  and  repaired  on 
board  the  Perseverance.  I think  we  left  the  river  Tagus  on  the  2d 
or  3d  of  October.  Although  our  ship  was  a fast  sailer,  yet  by  rea- 
son of  our  having  had  either  light  or  contrary  winds,  we  did  not  ar- 
rive at  Baltimore  till  about  the  18th  of  November.  During  this  long 


I 

paddock’s  NARRATIVE,  185 

[. 

i)  passage,  I found  in  captain  Norman,  as  far  as  I could  judge,  a com- 
d plete  seaman,  an  excellent  navigator,  a strict  disciplinarian,  and  a 
a benevolent  heart,— all  so  combined  as  to  render  him  a very  agree- 
m able  companion.  On  my  arrival  in  Baltimore,  my  first  object  was 
. to  visit  the  city  of  Washington,  in  order  to  fulfil  my  promise  to  James 
,e  Simpson,  Esq.  relative  to  the  expenses  of  our  ransom,  and  the  case 
[ of  those  of  cur  crew  who  had  been  left  with  the  Arabs,  whose  ran- 
,(  som  (should  they  live  to  obtain  it)  would  probably,  as  it  then  seem- 
lt|  ed,  be  more  expensive  to  the  government  than  ours  had  been. 

Having  at  the  time  but  one  dollar  left,  Captain  Norman  offered  me 
nt  as  much  money  as  I wanted  5 but  as  he  resided  in  the  country,  a re- 
t mittance  could  not  have  been  so  convenient  as  if  I should  take  it 
jfrom  a merchant  resident  in  the  city,  and  I therefore  declined  his 
e kind  offer.  Within  two  hours  of  the  time  of  my  landing  in  Balti- 
more, where  I knew  no  person  out  of  the  ship,  I accidentally  met 
d with  an  old  acquaintance  and  friend  of  mine,  Jonathan  Macy,  of  Nan- 
T]  tucket ; and  on  my  informing  him  of  my  situation,  he  offered  me  a full 
a supply  of  cash,  which  I readily  accepted.  These  little  incidents  may 
be  thought  by  some  of  my  readers  superfluous,  or  too  trivial  to  re- 
late. In  relating  them  1 have  only  one  object  in  view,  and  that  is  to 
j show  how  remarkably  I was  favoured  in  every  instance,  tvhenever 
ft  and  wherever  I needed  relief,  and  I feel  grateful  for  all  those  favours 
bestowed  upon  me,  whether  sought  or  unsought,  and  mere  especially 
for  the  latter* 

r About  the  19th  or  20th  of  November,  I took  the  stage  for  Wash- 
E ington,  and  arrived  there  the  same  evening*  The  next  morning  I 
r Waited  on  John  Marshall,  Esq.  our  then  Secretary  of  State,  who  re- 
3 ceived  me  politely,  and  treated  me  as  a friend.  In  my  interview 
with  the  Secretary,  I explained  to  .him  our  disaster,  and  told  him 
. what  our  consul-general  in  Tangier  had  said  in  his  letter  to  me  as  to 
our  ransom,  and  that  of  the  remainder  of  our  crew  yet  to  be  redeem- 
' ed.  He  heard  me  with  attention,  and  observed  I might  inform  Mr. 
j Simpson  that,  in  his  opinion,  he  had  done  well,  and  as  to  the  remain- 
! der  of  the  crew,  that  he  must  redeem  them  on  the  best  terms  he 
j could.  He  added,  “ our  citizens  must  be  protected  by  our  govern- 
r 'tnent,”  or  words  of  that  import,  and  he  congratulated  me  on  my  es- 
cape from  those  savages.  I-  then  look  leave  of  the  Secretary,  and 
1 returned  to  my  lodgings,  where  I noted  down  our  conversation,  word 
for  word  as  nearly  as  I could,  and  on  the  first  opportunity  I sent  a 
copy  of  it  to  our  worthy  consul-general  Simpson.  I then  returned 
to  New-York,  and  arrived  at  Hudson,  among  my  dear  friends  and 
^relatives,  after  an  absence  of  one  year  to  a day ; that  is  to  say,  from 
the  1st  of  December,  1800,  to  the  1st  of  the  same  month,  1801. 

Although  I have  endeavoured  to  avoid  all  matter  extraneous  to, 
or  unconnected  with  the  Narrative  which  I was  bound  to  give,  yet 
it  has  been  carried  on  to  an  unexpected  length,  and  perhaps  may  be 
thought  prolix.  Its  prolixity,  however,  (if  such  it  is,)  may  be 
ahiefly  attributed  to  two  causes  ; the  one  is,  the  loss  of  my  notes 
"aforementioned,  and  the  other,  my  ■writing  it  down  after  so  long  a 
ime  had  elapsed  since  the  occurrences  it  relates  took  place. 

24 


18G  haddock’s  narrativk. 

On  which  two  accounts  there  was  required,  not  only  extraordinary 
care  generally,  but  much  minuteness  as  to  particulars,  in  order  to 
do  justice  to  the  public  ; to  whose  hands,  as  thereto  rightfully  be- 
longing, after  it  shall  have  left  mine,  I commit  it,  with  diffidence  of 
my  own  abilities,  but  with  full  confidence  in  its  general  truth  and 
correctness  in  point  of  fact.  And  of  the  public  I ask  indulgence 
for  any  little  errors  or  mistakes  of  mine,  arising  out  of  the  aforemen- 
tioned disadvantages.  I will  only  add,  that  however  uninteresting  the 
foregoing  narrative,  or  parts  of  it,  may  appear  to  some,  I do  verily 
believe,  if  one  of  the  same  import  and  contents  had  fallen  into  my 
hands  previously  to  our  shipwreck,  it  probably,  by  guarding  me 
against  those  rapid  currents,  which  I then  knew  nothing  of,  might 
have  been  the  means  of  preventing  that  dreadful  catastrophe,  and  our 
no  less  dreadful  captivity,  in  the  most  inhospitable  part  of  the  globe 
that  has  ever  come  within  my  knowledge. 


. 


